EDITOR'S LETTER 我們的世界正在經歷著劇烈的轉變 曾幾何時 曾幾何時
我們已經不再拿起筆用力的寫下關心的話 我們已經不再感受到文字傳達出來的溫度
我們在這個大時代裡急著找尋出口時 卻忘了我們曾經走過的那條路 那條歷歷在目的痕跡 不斷提醒著我們 不管你擁有的名氣有多大 財富有 多少 我們都只是這個時代洪流裡的過客 然而 臺灣的世代正在轉變 舉凡來自同性之間的愛 還是對於土地的尊重 我們都以身為這個新時代的一份子而驕傲 我們不斷以行動來證明著自己的 價值 突破舊有束縛的社會觀感 只因為我們不一樣 與上個世代不同 與 下個世代相左 我們是一個最獨特的時代與存在 我們的世界正在經歷著劇烈的轉變
轉變到一個更美好的世代
Our world is undergoing a dramatic change. Since when, we are no longer able to pick up the pen and write down the words of love? Since when, we no longer feel the words that convey the temperature? We are anxious to find the correct path in this crucial time, but we have forgotten the route upon which we had once tread to reach here; The road i’ve walked still visible, constantly remind us; no matter how much fame and how much wealth one bears; we are only passengers in this torrent of time. Furthermore, the generation of Taiwan is changing; the love for our same gender, our respect for the land; we are proud to be a part of this new era. We must continue to act to prove our own value and release our bounds from the old social perception. We are not the same; from the previous generation nor the next generation, we are unique. Our world will undergo a dramatic change, and our generation will be a part of it.
CONTRIBUTORS
Editor
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Samuel Balkin
Yen-Fen, Wen
Tai-En, Chiang
Brucé, Chou
Michelle, Lin
United Kingdom
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Editor
JOURNALIST
PHOTOGRAPHER
PHOTOGRAPHER
Illustrator
Hayden Lee
Rémi Quentinet
Pietro Recchia
Sourwhat Yun
Simon Krieg
UK / HK
France
United Kingdom
Taiwan
Switzerland
#le_baiser
Let's kiss each other Photography by Julien NONNON Wo r d s b y H a y d e n L e e , D y l a n Ta n g
Street artist Julien NONNON r e i g n i t e s t h e l o v e r ’s c a n d l e t h r o u g h h i s e v e r so passionate project in the hear t of Par is. Illuminating the City of Love with street projectiles of couples kissing on the walls of buildings in the French c apital, NONNON parades his artistic talent in the most eye-catching way possible. His new project titled “#le_baiser” integrates street art with video mapping to present an awe dropping visual to the public eye. 不會 會
世
而 而
Julien NONNON 最 #le_baiser 與 有 愛 不
這 愛
#le
e_baiser
S A FA R I URBAIN V isual artist and founding member of L e3 Creative Studio, Julien NONNON exhibits his new project public ly in the streets of Paris, drawing out the inner love from just about all passer-bys. H o we ve r, t h i s i s n o t t h e fi r s t t i m e h e h a s m a n a g e d t o c a p t u re t h e h e a r t s o f t h e p u b l i c – h i s p r e v i o u s p r o j e c t t i t l e d “ S A FA R I URBAIN” received much public attention and admiration by combining street art and video mapping to create a form of street a r t t h a t d o e s n’t r e q u i r e a m o u t h m a s k a n d m u l t i p l e c a n s o f s p r a y paint. The series of photographs representing animal portraits dressed in fashionable clothing gained worldwide attention and exposed N O N N O N ’s s t y l i s t i c i n t e n t i o n s . W i t h t h e d e s i re t o re ve a l t h e t r u e b e a u t y o f l i f e, S A FA RA URBAI N aimed to utilise cities as a playground for expression by p o r t r a y i n g l i f e ’s i r r e g u l a r i t i e s , i m p e r f e c t i o n s a n d m a t t e r s t h r o u g h the interactions of his creations and urban features that surrounds it. Julien NONNON
Le3
名
這 不 一 “ S A FA R I U R B A I N ” Julien 這 S A FA R I U R B A I N 不
S A FA R I U R BA I N
最
上 上
一個 而
多 這一
上
而 不
與
” W hat is more romantic than capturing a real couple’s intimate kiss and parading it under the soft blanket of Paris’ starr y night sky? 有 下
愛
A f t e r t h e s u c c e s s o f “ S A FA R I U R BA I N ” i n O r l a n d o, F l o r i d a , N O N N O N returns to Par is with “#le_baiser ” and flaunts his end less ar tistic capabilities. Stemming off from his previous project, “#le_baiser” e m b r a c e s a m o re i n t i m a t e a p p ro a c h , p e r p e t u a t i n g a s e n s e o f ro m a n c e a n d e n g a g i n g t h e a u d i e n c e i n m o re w a y s t h a n j u s t o n e . Rather than combining urban wildlife with fashion, NONNON organised a n o p e n c a s t i n g, w h e re m o re t h a n a h u n d re d c o u p l e s w e re i n t e r v i e w e d f o r the chance to be casted into “the librar y of love”. I t c o m e s a t n o s u r p r i s e t h a t “ # l e _ b a i s e r ” re m i n d s u s o f h o w i m p o r t a n t i t is to celebrate love, and what better way to do it than demonstrate the a r t o f k i s s i n g u p o n t h e l o v e - s e e p e d w a l l s a l l a ro u n d t h e c i t y ! By starring the public as the main subjects of his project, NONNON r e l i g h t s t h e f l a m e b u r i e d d e e p i n s i d e t h e p e o p l e o f Pa r i s . “ T h e n u m b e r o f p e o p l e a i m i n g t o b e p a r t i n a c a s t i n g w a s b e yo n d m y e x p e c t a t i o n s , ” h e explains. “I received many heartfelt and touching messages from a lot of people telling me their stories and why they wanted to contribute to such a project.” S A FA RI U RBA I N #le_baiser 與
不同
這不
上 #le_baiser
一個 一
多 NONNON 一
會 這個 愛
多
#le_baiser
NONNON
多
我們愛
多
愛 NONNON
這個
們
這個
與這 我 們
們 我
有 下
我 們
愛
多 與這個
感 有
#le_ba
NONNON is no stranger when it comes to the public as an audience, and this time he sends more than just a message. S e l e c t i n g h i s c i t y - c a n v a s c a r e f u l l y, N O N N O N o p e n l y e x p r e s s e s the need for love, the need for affection, and how we as a society must not forget to love each other through all the hardships that life brings to the table. Ta k i n g i n s p i r a t i o n f r o m A l f r e d d e M u s s e t : “ T h e o n l y t r u e language in the world is a kiss”, the artist wishes the people of Par is to take ownership of their cit y with love, yet it is supposed that NONNON intends the expression to reach fur ther than Par is – af ter al l, the ‘ Frenc h kiss’ is a universal language. With “#le_baiser” being part of the next edition called “La Nuit Blanche”, the artist shows no signs of slowing down and intends to continue his mission of the “kiss” around the world with more nightly installations to come. Keep your eyes peeled for further captivating projections NONNON
不 一 我們
不
愛 Alfred de Musset 們
一 個 我們 世 對
會 不
不
這個 愛
上最 們
愛 這個
#le_baiser
一 而
名
下 這個世
aiser
感 Julien NONNON 會
Julien NONNON 下
有
Sleepwalking Awa ke Man-T i,Huang Sleepwalking Awake Oink Ryan Su Ric JayWalker Ko 世
D ylan Tang Hayden Lee
W h e n o n e ’s h o m e is left in tatters ravaged like aport in a tsunami what else is there left to salvage?
“Sleepwalking Awake” derives from the final four moments of the old house that she was raised in; attempting to protect the memories of her childhood, trying to preserve these dear recollections. “The neighbourhood does not seem to be blessed, however we should not perceive it in a negative light. Instead, we should t r e a t i t a s a n e s s e n c e o f b e a u t y, ” e x p r e s s e s M a n -T i .
一
下
最 這
一
有
我 而
我
我
最 最
一
Sleepwalking Awa ke
She often dreamt of dancing in this n e i g h b o u r h o o d a s a n e l f ; i t w a s h e r r e a l i t y, b u t a l s o h e r f a n t a s y. She did not think too much about passersby nor the opinions of her neighbours, for she felt it was the beauty of her dream. S h e w a s h e r n o v e l ’s o w n p r o t a g o n i s t o n a n adventure to explore her dream, to convey her f a n t a s y, b u t m o r e i m p o r t a n t l y t o m a k e s u r e i t i s n o t f o r g o t t e n , b e c a u s e i t w a s a l l s o c l e a r, yet so ver y vague. 舊 上
與舊 一同
這一
這
She often dreamt of dancing in this neighbourhood as an elf
I t w a s s o c l e a r,
yet so very vague
Ancie
ent and Ephemeral By
SIMON KRIEG
Ancient and Ephemeral In this series of portraits I tried to capture the feeling of ancient traditions coexisting alongside modern life in Asia.
古 ； 今 這一 與
我 與
HAKKA
SIMON KRIEG
S PA C E O U T PROJECT Designer : Yin-Ga, Chen Photographer : Dylan Tang
S PA C E O U T PROJECT Imagine the future
with highly developed science and
t e c h n o l o g y, a n d h u m a n k i n d s a r e a b l e t o t r a v e l b e t w e e n p l a n e t s easily Which means that space travel has become a part of people's daily lives. Then, here is my question: what would they wear at that time?
們 們 我
一個
一 們會
A t h e o r y c a l l e d “ OV ERV I EW EF F E C T � w ro t e by Fr a n k W h i t e in 1987, which is about astronauts look back and gaze the Earth during the space travel. It makes them rethink the bond between humans and the mother Earth from the angle of the universe. I believe that future generations will re-examine their traditional culture and crafts, and makes it as a design elements to their ever yday clothing. Therefore, based on these traditional techniques I recreated in a f u t u r i s t i c w a y, I c o m b i n e d b a m b o o w e a v i n g , e m b r o i d e r y, n a t u r a l indigo dye and hand knit techniques in this work to reshape the spacesuit, as if I were in the outer space affected by the o v e r v i e w t h e o r y.
(over view effect)1987
Fr a n k W h i t e 們
與 我
們 們
這 這 我
上
與 們
而
我 這
What would they wear at that time?
MODELS : Pacak Palasasav〠Navi Matulaian
MODEL : Garret
MODEL : Aurelien Jegou
MODEL : Badu
MODEL : Mudasun
Katie Eary Words Rémi Quentinet & Dylan Tang
AW 2017 marks a return to the sources for Katie Eary. Bold prints and the ‘70s are back in this latest collection for our greater pleasure. Inspired by “King of Soho” Paul Raymond, this menswear show invited the audience on a journey through the ages to enter a glamourous and colourful world. A world without time, genre or social condition boundaries. The autumn/winter ‘17 collection is a true return to the sources for Katie Eary. And just like every season, her creative path has its origins in a colourful novel or a truculent character. 一 這一 這 不 個
這 一個
世
一
有
This time, her inspiring muse is called Paul Raymond, an English publisher and businessman from Liverpool specialised in erotism who found success in a post-war context of liberation of morals. In 1958, he opened the first londonian strip-tease club in Soho, inspired by Paris “Folies bergères”. He reached his apogee in the 70s, he was then the owner of many strip clubs and theatres(including the Whitehall Theatre where the sex comedy Pyjama Tops ran for more than five years along with several sequels), as well as several adult magazines like Men Only and Mayfair and a huge real estate company, Soho
Estates. Katie Eary 每 一 次 的 時 裝 發 表， 都 會 讓 觀 眾彷彿置身在童話故事裡頭，讓他們親身感 受著每個故事中都會有的那個調皮的角色， 那個讓人有著強烈記憶點的角色；二零一七 年 的 秋 冬 男 裝，Katie Eary 的 靈 感 來 自 於 Paul Raymond；一個在戰後因為性解放， 而獲得成功的英國出版商。
He continued his expansion efforts and takeovers to the point of being nicknamed “King of Soho” by the press at that time, reigning on a small world oozing sexual promiscuity and hedonism. A world that never ventured into the violent and dirty territories, and remained saucy and mischievous. 1958 bergères)
Paul 同
有多
Soho 有多 Whitehall Pyjama Tops
會 (Folies 一
這
On the second day of this 2017 LFWM people didn’t attend a show, they went straight into a time capsule. When Daisy Lowe appeared on the catwalk with nipple balloons in the background and D usty Springfield singing The look of love, a strong ‘70s atmosphere was immediately set. Daisy’s plum silk close-fitting dress with a plunging cleavage and mini lizards print alongside with high heels further enhanced her natural sensuality and sex appeal.
同 Only
多 Mayfair 對 Soho 上 土 不
Katie Eary 有
Then followed some nightwear pieces in Springfield the likes of dressing gowns Hugh Hefner Daisy and two piece pyjama sets emblazoned with 感 kaleidoscopic patterns. But this call to go to bed stayed fairly innocent as the use of cute teddy bears and big colourful lizard prints can attest. Playboy Speaking of which, Raymond might have been the King of Soho, Katie Eary could definitely be called the Queen of Prints, as her constant and brilliant use of this technique
Soho
有多
Men
不 一個 有 而
這
這 Daisy Lowe Dusty 上 “The Look of Love'' 這個 2017 一 上 而
這 而 不同 感 Paul Raymond
never ceased to delight us in recent years. But not with just any fabric, since the use of bold prints and silk are intimately linked according to the creator :“I like the romance of a silk shirt, I think it’s quite sexy, moves beautifully and reflects the print way better than any cotton-based fabric.” Her manufacture is precise and meticulous, contrasting with her rebellious spirit. She does things differently but she does them well, with high-quality materials and a permanent care to details, leading her revolution with rigour and precision.
Soho
Katie Eary
這
不 不
Katie
上 上而
我 感而 對 個
最 Katie 與
不同
上 不同
不
FEATURE SHEEP-SKIN & FURRY COAT On a more naughty but still seemly note, the show featured sheep-skin and furry coats, ostentatiously opened shirts revealing gold chains and chest hair, rose-tinted sunglasses and tobacco brown knits adorned with ostrich feathers that would perfectly fit a pimp. 這
個
CHARACTERS of KATIE EARY The kind of character we could also find in the books of the gritty novelist Irvine Welsh, who has always been a source of inspiration for her and whose protagonists are always sleazy and borderline. The Mr. Hyde of her creative personality. What pushes her questioning of established rules, her anti-conformism, her disobedience and taboos shattering. 這
我們 Irvine Katie 個 Mr. Hyde 一
個
Irvine Welsh 這 不 下
nipplE bAlloons liZiZARD pRinTs osTRiCH FEATHERs
That perpetual search for originality distinguished herself from peers, right from the beginning of her career as Mario Testino shot her custom-made pieces wore by Kate Moss. “I didn’t train to be a millinery designer and I didn’t make womenswear, yet out of all the people that graduated that year they chose my stuff... I think if I’d been doing womenswear, that wouldn’t have happened” She is perfectly lucid about this paradox. Although she wasn’t the ideal candidate a priori, that’s precisely the reason why she was chosen. The maverick side of the Londonian designer, her ability to overcome preconceived ideas certainly didn’t leave people indifferent.
Katie Eary
名
我並不是被訓練成為一個只會做女性帽子的人 而且我從不 做女裝 ..... 如果我在一開始就製作女裝的話 那麼今天的一切 都不會發生 對 同 們對 與 不同
不 這
這 這
一
Katie Eary
名 Mario Testino
auTumn / WinTER 2017
KATIE EARY TIME TRAVELLER
In the end, this latest collection’s picturesque universe filled with psychedelics and eccentricity formed a vivid painting faithfully reflecting the morals of that time. The atmosphere of a world of peep shows, clip joints, nipple tassels, pimps, thieves and “models upstairs”, glamorous but in no way vulgar. Katie Eary keeps building bridges between subculture and public at large, between luxury and streetwear, between menswear and womenswear, between past and present and future. She is an architect working against monotony, shaping fascinating worlds for time travellers. Katie Eary 有
一
世 這 個
感
一個 與
有對
世 Katie Eary 不 一個
與 與 一個對
不 世
一個
Blood Brother Words Rémi Quentinet & Dylan Tang River Thames is London’s main artery and the one thing that allowed the city to come to life. In their FW ‘17 collection, Nick Biela and James Waller Blood Brother founders pay homage to the river itself, to the iconic buildings sharing its banks and to the people who made a living out of it. The proud Londoners transmit the values and heritage carried by the river to the new generation through their bold creations. 讓 有 的 ，在 lood rot er 的秋冬男裝裡頭， lood rot er 的 人 i iela ame aller 個 。 的 人 的 ， 的 的 。
“Integrity, roots and ambition”, this is the philosophy at the heart of the Blood Brother brand.The last part of this trilogy depicts the roots and that’s precisely what brings us to this autumn/ winter ‘17 collection, whose theme is none other than The River Thames. Brand founders Nick Biela and James Waller are londoners, they are proud of it, and there is no better symbol of the British capital than its main artery, without which the city wouldn’t exist. 這
個
們
而
們 這個
一
感 不會
上
有這
It is way more than a simple watercourse. It is a source of life, work, culture and for the two designers, the source of a question: Why does the River Thames seem to reflect London and its heritage so well? The river may be in perpetual motion, it found its way through the ages and still
managed to keep anchored the footsteps of all the subcultures and people it has welcomed within its banks. 不
一
多
這 與
不 下
In the style of 17th and 18th centuries mud lurks, Nick and James have been scavenging the shores of London’s aorta. Not to survive like their ancestors, but to bring life to Autumn Winter 17 collection. 世 一 們
一 不
這 這
而 而
們
Blood Brother A real tributes compendium, to the professions Thames created and that don’t exist anymore like, for example, the ferrymen. Jumbo cords, strapping and pocket details were featured in this presentation adding utilitarian stylistic features, while the oversized coats and bombers remind without ambiguity the manual workers apparel. 這
對
多 上 而
inTEgRiTy RooTs AmbiTion
不 這個 們
們 感不 上 But the people were not their only muse. The 而 environment, its layout, its buildings, have 這 also been at the heart of their task. If you 一 們對 already know Blood Brother then you know 與 愛 不 the creator’s love for prints and if you read 們 這 個 愛 一 this article you are now aware of their love for the river Thames. It thus came as no surprise 們 上 that we found a combination of both here. 不同 上 They referenced the cartography and mapping of the River Thames. And brought it to life using detailed embroidery on various fabrics such as silks, sweats and tailoring pieces, and showcased it on a suit as well as a bomber jacket. 這個 有 有 名
對
A print reference of the Battersea Power Station was also translated onto the back of a suit jacket in the form of a graphic linear print.It might not be as famous as Big Ben or 世 the Tower Bridge(to mention only those two) for tourists, yet the plant is a major element of London landscape and the ideal companion of 不 river Thames as an essential resource supplier.
而
這
一
不 這個
上 下
會對
名 上
上 上 同這
一
一
而
The power station is no longer active, but this
我們不
這個
print will remain as a testimony for future generations. Also the brand’s name was stitched on several items, in giant letters along scarves, down the side of sleeves, and on a small bumbag strapped to a model’s chest. It carries their “Integrity, roots and ambition” ethos. This motto, in the form of a triptych, sees each of its elements honoured by the duo. As regards the integrity and commitment, Nick’s words are very clear: “We’re not fake, the brand has our DNA in it. We both like clothes so we learned how to make good clothes – that’s what it boils down to. There’s no pretence about us.” They don’t lack ambition neither. They had a humble start, selling graphic T-shirts only. Then it livened up, sales took off, they quit their jobs and the product range has expanded towards a complete collection. A classic success story, that shows nevertheless the strong determination and desire of the “brothers”.
們
有我們 我們 我們一 不
我們 這
我
這個 們
不 下 有多
而
們 這個 有一
inspiRATion RIVER THAMES BATTERSEA POWER STATION
auTumn / WinTER 2017
BLOOD BROTHER TOGETHERNESS
Wearing those items goes beyond pure coquetry, it is a way to show off your pride in belonging to the fraternity, and proclaim loud and clear the dearest word of the designers: “togetherness”. The word was not randomly picked, because indeed, this brotherhood brings people together. Beyond their condition, beyond their social standing, beyond their generation. Blood Brother is each and everyone of us. It is also yesterday, today and tomorrow gathered. It is everybody and everywhere at once, it is multiple but united under a single banner. Universal and eternal. 不
會
感 這個名 們 一 們 世
而 最
不
而
這 們 我們 個
們
個 不
一個
一 而
有 愛 感 會
J.W.ANDERSON aW17
Fashion has the ability to influence the world and yet maintain its free flowing b o u n d l e s s c r e a t i v i t y. M u c h l i k e t h e way Jonathan Anderson describes it as we are "lost in the womb of fashion". 而 如
Jonathan Anderson 在
的
J.W. ANDERSON
J.W. ANDERSON
J.W. anDERSOn
a / W 2017
QaSimi ‘ROOm 72’
與 上
感
The main inspiration for the AW17 collection came from the ‘Bed In’ protest by Joh Lennon and Yoko Ono in 1969, which took place in ROOM 72 of the Amsterdam Hilton Hotel. The colours which hark back to 1960’s interiors are clashing colours of mauve pinks and uniform browns.
a/ W 2017
BELSTaFF ‘ JOLLY ROGER ’
與 世 上
上
The colour and style of Jolly Roger, Belstaff pay tribute to the British Royal Navy through out WWII. This is a network within fashion and history. It had to endure the harshest of conditions while at the sea. The toughest fashion was born, for the hero at sea.
JOLLY ROGER
BELSTAFF
BELSTAFF
A/W 2017 Jolly RogER
a / W 2017
BERTHOLD ‘aSYLum’
Explores the rhythm of restriction.
BEN SHERMAN
Signal from the Swinging London.
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON
“this is the first collection created post Brexit, post Trump”. “create a sense of unity, rather than division.” 而
MATTHEW MILLER
Matthew Miller
一 我
對 對 我們
一
Matthew Miller Autumn/Winter 17 is protecting oneself in the post truth era. Uniforms for the disenchanted, disenfranchised and disengaged.” – Matthew Miller THE ONLY THING WE HAVE TO FEAR IS FEAR ITSELF.
KTZ
Autumn/Winter 17
Pietro Recchia
London
Photographer
THROUGH HIS LENS EXPLORE LONDON'S STREET FASHION.
lonDon sTREET FAsHion
lonDon sTREET FAsHion
piETRo RECCHiA
O R T E PI A I H C C E R