THE VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING
10 YEARS
the VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING
2012 - 2022 FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TEN-YEAR ANNIVERSARY ISSUE Special Double Edition
61
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
SEPT/OCTOBER 2022 DISPLAY UNTIL NOVEMBER 30
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 1
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This shot is called “The Athlete,” a title that really needs no explanation. Dreams and memories are made of scenes like this. Photo by Neal Rogers
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Crepuscular periods present some of the best opportunities to find fish, and the soft, pastel light of dawn and dusk make for stunning photographs. This image appeared on the cover of Issue 45 (January/February 2020). Photo by David McCleaf
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They don’t have to be big to be beautiful. Photo by Zane Taylor
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It’s a bird, it’s a fish . . . it’s a fly fishing fish, a species that never ceases to amaze as it sails up to 200 meters over the water’s surface or carves an evanescent trail as seen here. Photo from TFFM archive
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TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 11
— from the editor Tenacity, Persistence, and Obstinance Thomas Edison was possibly the most tenacious and hardworking inventor of all time. He has been quoted in this publication several times. If you have ever spent time with me, I’m sure an Edison quote or reference was made, as he is someone I admire and strive to emulate. His tenacity and work ethic best represent the spirit of Tail Fly Fishing Magazine and me personally. He never stopped reaching, even in the face of failure, and used each failure to move closer to his goals. Words frequently used to describe Edison are “obstinate” and “persistent.” Persistence is defined as firm or obstinate continuance in a course of action in spite of difficulty or opposition. Launching and continuing a print magazine while the entire world is clamoring that print is dead would most definitely qualify. But here’s more insight, quoting Edison: “One might think that the money value of an invention constitutes its reward to the man who loves his work. But speaking for myself, I can honestly say this is not so. . . . I continue to find my greatest pleasure, and so my reward, in the work that precedes what the world calls success.” TFFM has enjoyed continued growth and acceptance despite more ups and downs than a theme park. I am contented by where my obstinance has brought me. The honor of making a magazine that has become the voice of saltwater fly fishing, bringing much joy to readers, is the reward for me. If I may take the liberty of speaking for my team, it is for them, too. After ten years, I’m still waiting for my first paycheck from TFFM, but if it takes another ten years, I can wait it out.
receiving all the glowing texts, phone calls, emails, and sincere expressions of thanks that accompany each new release is my reward. Being able to photograph and share the successes and smiles of the anglers on our hosted trips is yet another. The joy is doing what we love to do—fly fishing in salt water. If manufacturers and lodges don’t participate with TFFM, who cares really? They lose by missing the opportunity to connect with this community—our community. This issue is special for obvious reasons, but making the 61st issue of Tail Fly Fishing Magazine while stamping a decade of devotion to saltwater fly fishing is especially sentimental for me. It wasn’t all that long ago we were discussing how we were going to keep things going. Thankfully, we found a way to make it here and beyond. This issue is a special double issue with new content as well as some previously published content that many of you have probably never seen. We wanted to remind old readers of, and introduce new readers to, the body of work we have assembled over the last decade. Issue 61 starts with the very first article from the very first issue, explaining my reasons for starting TFFM. While we started obscurely, having never published anything or having any concept of marketing, the content of this issue demonstrates how persistence and grit can prevail. All of us at TFFM know that this is the best issue we’ve ever put together, but we reinforce our commitment that each issue will be better than the last. Enjoy this anniversary issue. It was ten years in the making.
Again, Mr. Edison: “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.” Yes, TFFM is a lot of work; I can’t stress how much work it actually is. While there is no monetary reward,
12 TAIL TAILFLY FLYFISHING FISHINGMAGAZINE MAGAZINE
Joseph Ballarini Editor in Chief
TM
GUIDE TESTED.
On the Cover: We’ve never met a fish tail we didn’t like, but it doesn’t get much more iconic than the redfish’s vibrant copper caudal fin with its prevalent spot. Photo by Macala Elliott THE VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING
10 YEARS
the VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING
2012 - 2022 FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TEN-YEAR ANNIVERSARY ISSUE Special Double Edition
61
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
SEPT/OCTOBER 2022 DISPLAY UNTIL NOVEMBER 30
GUIDE TRUSTED.
Editor-In-Chief: Managing Editor: Acquisitions Editor: Creative Director: Food Editor: Travel Editor: West Coast Editor: Consulting Editor: Contributing Editors: Gear Editor: Historians: Editors-at-Large:
Joseph Ballarini Trey Reid George V. Roberts Jr. Scott Morrison Jennifer Matsu Peter McLeod Al Quattrocchi Chico Fernandez Andy Mill, Nicky Mill Andrew Ebert Pete Barrett, Ed Mitchell Joe Doggett, Mark B. Hatter, Tom Keer, James P. Spica Jr. Copy Editor: Leila Beasley
Creative Contributors: Joseph Albanese Joseph Ballarini John Bracey Stephen Collector Carlos Cortez Michael DeJarnette Joe Doggett Andrew Ebert Macala Elliott Chico Fernandez
Daniel Goez Captain Scott Hamilton Carl Harris Ilias Karanzas Arek Kubale Jennifer Matsu David McCleaf Peter McLeod Jon Olch Trey Reid
George Roberts Ryan Rodgers Neal Rogers Gilbert Rowley Rob Schumske Zane Taylor Don Thomas Lori Thomas Aaron Wood
About Tail Fly Fishing Magazine is the voice of saltwater fly fishing in a bimonthly print and digital publication. We focus on delivering high-quality content, the very best photography, destination travel, reputable commentary, and technical features from the saltwater fly fishing culture. Tail Fly Fishing Magazine began as a digital publication in 2012 and debuted as a print magazine in 2016. Combined, the digital and print versions reach readers in more than 45 countries. In many places throughout the world, fly fishing has become important to both people and the environment. As a method of fishing imbued with values of stewardship and conservation, it connects people with the marine world in significant and positive ways. We, the anglers, are the last line of defense for our outdoor spaces. Tail Fly Fishing Magazine supports the arts and creativity, conservation, and organizations that trumpet this message. We’re grateful for your support and we welcome photographic and written contributions. TFFM is published six times annually, and your print subscription includes the digital version. Subscriptions are available through our website. International subscriptions are also available for most countries. Please contact our general mailbox, admin@tailflyfishing.com, with any advertising, subscription, or submission questions.
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INSIDE THE BOX: TEN FLIES WE SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE - Joseph Ballarini To celebrate our tenth anniversary, our founder has compiled a list of ten flies that should always be in your fly box, using information collected from thousands of anglers, hundreds of guides, and dozens of lodge owners—as well as his own personal experience. Did your favorites make the cut? Let the debate begin.
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ADDICTION - Joseph Ballarini In the beginning, there was a burning passion for saltwater fly fishing, followed soon by a quest for knowledge, information, and experience. That’s how this magazine was born, and this feature, which appeared as the first article in Issue 1 (September/October 2012), explains how Editor-in-Chief Joseph Ballarini was hooked by his first bonefish, sparking an obsession with saltwater fly fishing and giving rise to the product you now hold in your hands.
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BARRACUDA BREAKDOWN - Chico Fernandez There are a lot of fish in the sea, and according to Chico Fernandez, one of the most underrated is the great barracuda. Its runs aren’t as long as some of the other species we pursue with fly rods in salt water, but the barracuda more than makes up for it by viciously attacking a fly and making a blazing initial run—often with impressive aerial acrobatics. Chico explains the allure of fly fishing for barracuda and how to find and catch this unsung hero of the flats. GEAR GUIDE - TFFM Staff We couldn’t publish an expanded issue without a similarly expanded Gear Guide, so this special installment of the regular reader favorite highlights even more cool stuff than usual—clothes, gear, and gadgets galore–with the editor’s choice awards for some of our favorites. WIDE OPEN - Gilbert Rowley The goal was recording video of fly anglers in search of tuna and dorado off the coast of Southern California, but Gilbert Rowley got even more than he bargained for when he hooked a yellowfin tuna for his first saltwater fish on a fly rod. Originally published in Issue 22 (March/ April 2016), this piece tells the story of a Western trout guy’s mind-boggling introduction to the salt.
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THE HEART OF THE KEYS: A MARATHON JOURNAL - Stephen Collector A photography assignment introduced Stephen Collector to the Florida Keys in the 1980s, and he was immediately enchanted with the place, especially after spending time with Jim Harrison, Russell Chatham, and Tom McGuane—the subjects of the magazine shoot. More than three decades later, Collector returned earlier this year for an extended stay, documenting his return in this journal and the accompanying black and white photographs, most of which were shot on film. THE MURDER CUCUMBERS OF BLEKINGE Ilias Karanzas The southern coast of Sweden is thousands of miles from the tropical Caribbean flats that more often fill this magazine’s pages. And braving February’s chill to fly fish for pike in the brackish waters near Blekinge is light years from the saltwater fly fishing norm. Ilias Karanzas and photographer Arek Kubale take us to another world of fly fishing in this piece that originally appeared in Issue 25 (September/October 2016). ON THE PLATE: SEAFOOD PAELLA - Jennifer Matsu Inspired by evening conversations about Cuban food with Chico Fernandez during El Palometero 2022 in Punta Allen, Mexico, our food editor returned home from her travels, dug out the special cookware, and came up with this tasty seafood paella. ¡Buen provecho! BAYOU VISTA RANCH WATER - TFFM Staff The Ranch Water cocktail has been all the rage in recent years—companies are even making canned versions to take advantage of the hard-seltzer craze—and now comes Tail Fly Fishing Magazine’s take on it, courtesy of Food Editor Jennifer Matsu. The Ranch Water keeps the tequila—or mezcal in this version—front and center, while the sparkling mineral water makes it light and refreshing. She has added a new ingredient, too. SEEING RED - Macala Elliott Sometimes, few words are necessary, and we think Mac Elliott’s redfish photos speak for themselves in this superb photographic essay. She captures the essence of these beautiful bruisers in Texas, Florida, and South Carolina, and if you’re not ready to head to the marsh after seeing these images, you need to check your pulse.
Photo courtesy of Aardvark McLeod
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FLY TYING: COOLA POP SHRIMP - Carl Harris It’s a shrimp, it’s a popper . . . it’s a popping shrimp. It’s the Coola Pop Shrimp by Carl Harris. Grab some foam and feathers and get to work with these step-by-step instructions. BASS ON TOP - George Roberts When fly fishing for striped bass, there’s nothing more exciting than taking them on surface flies. In this technical piece that originally appeared in Issue 37 (September/October 2018), Acquisitions Editor George Roberts reveals the flies to use, gear specs, and when and where to use surface flies—as well as the best ways to make your bugs gurgle and glug to call up hungry and curious stripers. CHASING THE WAVING TAIL: AN EVOLUTION IN PERMIT FISHING - Jonathan Olch Saltwater fly fishing is constantly changing and evolving with advances in both equipment and knowledge, and permit fishing is no exception. Jon Olch, the author of A Passion for Permit, weighs in with an evaluation of the changes—and constants—in permit fly fishing over the past decade. UNHAPPY HOOKERS - E. Donnall Thomas Jr. You see some “interesting” injuries in hospital emergency rooms, and when the hospital is in Soldotna, Alaska, situated on the Kenai River and home base for the river’s famous salmon runs, that includes lots of fish hooks embedded in body parts. Don Thomas, who practiced medicine in Soldotna for a number of years, shares some humorous stories about his experience. More important, though, he dispenses practical advice about what to do when an errant cast results in hooks in the wrong places. DECADE OF CONSERVATION - TFFM Staff Conservation of marine resources is the foundation of all we hold dear in the world of saltwater fly fishing. There have been success stories and disappointing setbacks over the past ten years, but this piece calls attention to some of the most notable conservation achievements during Tail Fly Fishing Magazine’s first decade as the voice of saltwater fly fishing. DORADO ON THE BANK - Carlos Cortez Golden dorado aren’t a saltwater species, but fly fishing for them requires many of the same tactics and techniques used for the salty species we often pursue. Carlos Cortez explores the golden dorado game on the sand banks of South America’s Alta Paraná River, drawing comparisons to his sometimes obsessive pursuit of permit.
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FLYING HIGH FOR TARPON - Joe Doggett Longtime Houston Chronicle outdoor writer Joe Doggett has made many contributions to this magazine over the years, but this story of fly fishing for tarpon in Costa Rica in the early 1980s is probably our favorite. This humorous tale of a day on the water in search of tarpon—and validation from a demanding young guide—initially appeared in Issue 39 (January/February 2019). DEEP GRAVY - Trey Reid Our managing editor shares the story of the best week of saltwater fly fishing of his life, but it’s more than an expository piece recounting his uncommon success. He probes unexpected feelings of sheepishness and disbelief that arose as the fishing just kept getting better. In the end, it’s all gravy. But how much gravy is enough? GT BEHAVIOR AND HANGOUTS Peter McLeod TFFM Travel Editor Peter McLeod has amassed a wealth of angling knowledge while traveling the globe in search of the next great fly fishing adventure. In this piece, which appeared in Issue 27 (January/February 2017), he provides summaries from his book, GT: A Fly Fisher’s Guide to Giant Trevally, that explain where to find these “gangsters of the ocean” and how to catch them. SALT MARSH SECRETS - Joseph Albanese When the stars align—mainly in the form of tides and water temperatures—the shallow waters of Northeast salt marshes explode with life, leading to a feeding frenzy of epic proportions and some of the best striped bass fishing to be found on the Atlantic Coast. Initially appearing in Issue 34 (March/April 2018), this technical piece reveals all you need to know about identifying the right conditions and taking advantage of them.
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A GUIDE’S LIFE - Scott Hamilton Captain Scott Hamilton says every day on the water is unique, but some are definitely more unusual than others. In this article from Issue 17 (May/June 2015), Hamilton shares several accounts from his life on the water. From the harrowing story of surviving an unexpected storm to humorous tales of busted tackle, these tales are sure to entertain.
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UNDERTOW: QUERENCIA - Aaron Wood Isolation and loneliness are two sides of a coin in Aaron Wood’s thoughtful essay about fly fishing on a remote beach guarded by crocodiles. Querencia is Spanish for “affection,” and in this case, the object of that affection is a place to oneself.
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R E T A I L E R S C A R R Y T A I L
ALASKA Mossy’s Fly Shop 750 W. Diamond Blvd, Suite 114 Anchorage, AK 99515 907-770-2666 mossysflyshop.com CALIFORNIA Bob Marriott’s Fly Fishing Store 2700 W. Orangethorpe Ave Fullerton, CA 92833 714-525-1827 bobmarriottsflyfishingstore. com COLORADO Front Range Anglers 2344 Pearl Street Boulder, CO 80302 303-494-1375 frontrangeanglers.com Golden Fly Shop 710 Golden Ridge Rd #126 Golden, CO 80401 303-330-1291 goldenfly.shop CONNECTICUT The Compleat Angler 541 Boston Post Road Darien, CT 06820 203-655-9400 compleatangleronline.com FLORIDA 239 Flies 3431 Bonita Beach Rd SW Unit #205 Bonita Springs, FL 34134 (239) 908-3513 239flies.com
ORVIS Sandestin 625 Grand Boulevard Ste 101 Sandestin, FL 32550 850-650-2174 Orvis.com Seven Mile Fly Shop 1638 Overseas Highway Marathon, FL 33050 (305) 440-3406 sevenmileflyshop.com The Angling Company 333 Simonton St Key West, FL 33040 305-292-6306 anglingcompany.com The Tide 26 Grouper Hole Drive Boca Grande, FL 33921 941-964-2417 GEORGIA ORVIS Atlanta Buckhead Square 3255 Peachtree Rd NE Atlanta, GA 30305 404-841-0093 Orvis.com The Fish Hawk 764 Miami Cir NE #126 Atlanta, GA 30305 404-237-3473 thefishhawk.com LOUISIANA ORVIS Baton Rouge Perkins Rowe, Bldg. H 7601 Bluebonnet Blvd., Ste. 140 Baton Rouge LA 70810 225-757-7286 Orvis.com
NORTH CAROLINA OBX on the Fly 107 Sir Walter Raleigh St Manteo, NC 27954 obxonthefly.com RHODE ISLAND The Saltwater Edge 1037 Aquidneck Ave Middletown, RI 02842 866-793-6733 saltwateredge.com SOUTH CAROLINA Bay Street Outfitters 825 Bay Street Beaufort, SC 29902 843-524-5250 baystreetoutfitters.com ORVIS Charleston 535 King St. Charleston, SC 29403 (854) 999-4985 Orvis.com Southern Drawl Outfitters 1533 Fording Island Rd Hilton Head Island, SC 29926 843-705-6010 southerndrawloutfitters.com TEXAS Bayou City Angler 3641 Westheimer Rd Suite A Houston, TX 77027 832-831-3104 bayoucityangler.com
Sportsman’s Finest 12434 Bee Cave Road Austin, TX 78738 512-263-1888 sportsmansfinest.com Swan Point Landing 1723 Cherry Street Suite 4 Rockport, TX 78382 361-729-7926 swanpointlandingflyshop.net Tailwaters Fly Fishing Co. 1933 E. Levee St Dallas, TX 75207 888-824-5420 tailwatersflyfishing.com UTAH Fishwest 47 West 10600 South Sandy, UT 84070 fishwest.com 801-617-1225 WASHINGTON Peninsula Outfitters 19740 7th Ave NE, Suite 110 Poulsbo, WA 98370 360-394-1599 peninsulaoutfitters.com The Avid Angler 17171 Bothell Way NE #A272 Lake Forest Park, WA 98155 206-362-4030 avidangler.com WYOMING Lander Fly Shop 305 Main Street Lander, WY 82520 307-438-3439 landerflyshop.com
MARYLAND
Gordy & Sons Outfitters 22 Waugh Drive Houston, TX 77007 713-333-3474 gordyandsons.com
Florida Keys Outfitters 81219 Overseas Highway Islamorada, FL 33036 305-664-5432 floridakeysoutfitters.com
Alltackle 2062 Somerville Rd Annapolis, MD 21401 888-810-7283 alltackle.com
Grapevine Fly Fishing 122 N Main Street Grapevine, Texas 76051 720.453.6878 grapevineflyfishing.com
Forgotten Coast Fly Company 123 Commerce St Apalachicola, FL 32320 850-323-0266 forgottencoastflycompany. com
MASSACHUSETTS
Gruene Outfitters 1265 Industrial Drive Suite C New Braunfels, TX 78130 (830) 625-4440 grueneoutfitters.com
Bass Pro Shops—95 locations in the USA
ORVIS Austin 10000 Research Blvd - B04B Austin TX 78759 512-795-8004 Orvis.com
Field & Stream Stores—35 locations in the USA
ORVIS Houston 5727 Westheimer - Suite A Houston TX 77057 713-783-2111 Orvis.com
BAHAMAS
Mangrove Outfitters 4111 Tamiami Trail E Naples, FL 34112 239-793-3370 mangroveoutfitters.com Ole Florida Fly Shop 6353 N. Federal Hwy Boca Raton, FL 33487 561-995-1929 olefloridaflyshop.com Orlando Outfitters 2814 Corrine Dr Orlando, FL 32803 407-896-8220 orlandooutfitters.com ORVIS Ocean Reef 1 Fishing Village Drive Key Largo FL 33037 305-367-2227 Orvis.com
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The Bear’s Den 34 Robert W. Boyden Rd Taunton, MA 02780 508-977-0700 bearsden.com Kismet Outfitters 204 UPPER MAIN STREET Edgartown, MA 02539 860-944-5225 kismetoutfitters.com MONTANA Frontier Anglers 680 N. Montana St Dillion, MT 59725 406-683-5276 frontieranglers.com NEW YORK River Bay Outfitters 980 Church St Baldwin, NY 11510 516-415-7748 riverbayoutfitters.com
ORVIS Plano Preston Towne Crossing 2412 Preston Road Suite 200 Plano, TX 75093 972-596-7529 Orvis.com ORVIS San Antonio 7427 San Pedro Ave. Suite 104 San Antonio, TX 78216 210-812-3017 Orvis.com
RETAIL CHAINS: Barnes & Noble—630 retail locations in the USA Books-A-Million—260 stores in 32 states
Dick’s Sporting Goods (select locations)—over 700 stores in the USA
Indigo Books—over 200 stores under various banners
Blackfly Lodge Schooner Bay Abaco, Bahamas 904-997-2220 blackflylodge.com CANADA Drift Outfitters & Fly Shop 199 Queen St. East Toronto Ontario M5A-1S2 647-347-7370 Driftoutfitters.com Fish Tales Fly Shop Ltd. #626, 12100 Macleod Trail SE Calgary AB T2J 7G9 Canada 866-640-1273 fishtalesflyshop.com
ON TODAY'S FISHING
MENU INSHORE NEARSHORE OFFSHORE TARPON REDFISH TROUT PERMIT SNOOK DRUM
TRIPLETAIL STRIPERS GROUPER ALBIES SHARKS SNAPPER
MAHI YELLOWFIN BLUEFIN AMBERJACK SAILFISH BLACKFIN
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TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 23
by Joseph Ballarini Tail Fly Fishing Magazine’s ten-year anniversary calls for something more extensive than a tutorial or pictures of destination boxes. So I’ve made a list of ten flies for ten years, and these selections should always be inside your fly box. I’ve fished a lot of flies over the years, and I’ve also gained insight from thousands of anglers, hundreds of guides, and dozens of lodge owners. Over the last decade of publishing this magazine, I’ve pooled that information into an extensive meta analysis of fly success. Is it absolute? No. It’s simply a salty fly guy sharing ten years of his observations—and the observations and experiences of others—to try to make everyone’s fishing better. I’m sure this list will generate debate and maybe a few arguments; I argued with myself while compiling it. I considered dozens of other flies. I didn’t include the EP Spawning Shrimp, Deceiver, Half and Half, Slider, M.O.E., Strong Arm Crab, or Aflexo. Nor did the Chernobyl Crab or Borski Slider make the cut—despite the fact Tim Borski was a major influence on my early fly tying. You’ll likely have strong opinions about your own favorite producers, and we’d like to hear about it. Send us an email or letter, or follow our Instagram and Facebook pages to weigh in on our digital platforms.
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WHITE EP PEANUT BUTTER If you aren’t familiar with Enrico Puglisi’s Peanut Butter, you either haven’t been fly fishing long or you’re not paying attention. It’s probably one of the most common baitfish patterns in use, sold by almost every fly shop, and has a profile that catches fish in both fresh and salt water. It’s lightweight and easy to cast, swims well, and can be tied in any color combination. I’ve used it to catch striped bass, peacock bass, bluefish, mahi-mahi, marlin, tarpon, redfish, and snook, as well as various shark and trevally species. Solid white is the most versatile, fished as is, or colored with Sharpies to mimic local prey. Other favorite colors are black and purple, and the white belly with blue, green, or tan on top.
VEVERKA’S MANTIS SHRIMP I interviewed the late Bob Veverka about nine years
POP’S BONEFISH BITTERS
ago and asked him about his most widely known fly; his answer kind of surprised me. I’m paraphrasing,
Pop’s Bitters is a time-tested and proven flats fly.
but he basically said that he didn’t like tying a bunch
It’s a little crabby and a little shrimpy, which is why
of shrimp variations and just wanted one that would
both bonefish and permit like it. It’s a great pattern
work everywhere. He also laughed and said it was
for Turneffe in Belize and is comparable to the crab
just luck. Anyone who has ever fished for bonefish
named after the atoll. They’re similar—both have a
has probably used his Mantis. It’s usually the first
small tuft of deer hair, a design element that usually
fly that a guide will select from your box. Permit eat
makes them land hook up—but one slight difference
it, too. I’ve taken bonefish on three continents with
gives the edge to the Bitters: The little bead of epoxy
it, and it’s usually the first fly that I’ll try on flats in
on the body/head gives the fly additional weight,
new destinations. I’ve caught fish with it in Indonesia,
more effectively getting it to the bottom. The Bitters
Maldives, and Australia—on unknown flats, without a
also lands slightly softer, and I like the way it wobbles
guide. Ververka’s shrimp is lightweight, lands softly,
as it makes little sand puffs with each bounce. You
and fish go crazy for the front-focused rubber legs.
can take permit, bones, and even redfish on it, and it’s
My favorite variation is the “ghost” version, a very
also great for triggerfish and sheepshead.
light tan with light barring.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 25
MARABOU MADNESS Speaking of marabou, Chico Fernandez’s Marabou Madness is another
RAGHEAD CRAB
incredibly versatile pattern. It’s a simple fly made entirely of marabou with a couple of strands of gold flash. It’s the marabou version of the Clouser
I hate crab flies. I tie them
Minnow and EP Peanut Butter—versatile, productive, easy to tie and cast.
because they’re necessary, and
It undulates in the water when stationary and will take tarpon, snook, and
because managing editor Trey
tripletail. I’ve also used a tan version to hook bonefish and a blue-and-white
Reid almost exclusively fishes
version for trevally, but my go-to colors are black and purple. I’ve always
them for permit. The Raghead
assumed the flash added detail, so while recently fishing with Chico, who was
edged out the Chernobyl Crab
throwing a Madness for snook at Ascension Bay, I asked him about it. “I just
and the Merkin mainly because
like it,” he said, looking over his shoulder from the bow and grinning widely. “It
it’s so popular in Belize and
serves no real purpose.” Then he turned around and made another cast.
Mexico. If you show up without a selection of Ragheads in your box, your guide won’t be happy. The Raghead gets the edge based on its natural materials, including marabou, which makes everything better. You can’t effectively strip crabs— the reason for my disdain—so the fly has to move when it’s stationary. But even when it’s static, the Raghead’s puffy marabou tail (the head of the
CLOUSER MINNOW My home state of Pennsylvania has made many iconic contributions to
crab but the tail of the fly)
culture. One area in central PA has given us Hershey Bars, York Peppermint
sways and undulates, which
Patties, Auntie Anne’s Pretzels . . . and Bob Clouser. The Clouser Minnow
is likely why they’re the most
is the undisputed heavyweight champion of flies. It’s arguably the most
common selection—and one
productive fly in history and can be used successfully on almost every
of the biggest producers—for
species. Not having Clousers in your box is like not having line on your reel.
Caribbean permit.
Enough said.
26 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TARPON TOAD Gary Merriman’s Tarpon Toad is the fly that led Andy Mill to five Gold Cup Tarpon Tournament wins, cementing his legend in tarpon fly fishing. He still uses them today, and so do a lot of other people. The Toad has taken more tarpon in more places than any tarpon fly in my box. It originally was tied with a bunny strip, but that can get heavy to cast and land hard when wet. Today, both Merriman and Mill prefer the marabou tail, although the rabbit strip is still common, and most commercially produced Toads use the bunny strip. It catches fish everywhere: open water, mangroves, stained water, clear water. It can be tied in various color combinations to mimic shrimp, baitfish, worms, juvenile squid, and jellyfish.
GARTSIDE GURGLER The Gartside Gurgler, developed by Jack Gartside in 1988 for striped bass in Massachusetts, is the quintessential topwater fly. According to legend, Gartside’s original intent was creating a variation of a grasshopper or beetle fly for trout. But its effectiveness on striped bass couldn’t be ignored, and although it’s still useful for many freshwater species, its versatility has made it an integral part of the saltwater fly arsenal. Unlike a popper, the slow-strip retrieve often employed with the Gurgler can mimic shrimp, squid, baitfish, and worms. It can be tied in varying sizes and colors, and varying the tail’s length changes its appearance and action for different presentations. I tie it with a marabou tail, exaggerate the big fold of foam body, and minimize the lip at the hook eye for smoother movement.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 27
PETERSON’S SPAWNING SHRIMP This is one of my all-time favorite flies and a terrific example of how natural materials and inherent movement can create magic. It’s one of three flies that I use in unexplored or unknown destinations. It’s also my favorite shrimp pattern to tie (and the front half of my own Evolution Shrimp). Design is the key to this producer. The action comes mostly from the front portion, enhanced by the natural movement of the fur used for the top of the body. Like many flies on this list, it moves even when stationary. It’s great for bonefish and permit, but I also tie it on big longshank hooks in lighter colors to use for striped bass and redfish—and for winter tarpon during shrimp runs. With bead chain or other lighter weights, its buoyant materials make it an intermediate fly that sits in the middle of the water column. I use foxtail for both the egg sac and tail, and either foxtail or rabbit for the body.
SPOON FLY In my youth I used a conventional lure called a Kastmaster—a silver oblong ellipse, polished on both sides, with a trailing treble hook. It came in numerous sizes, and fancy versions came with a small clump of white bucktail on the treble. We used them like jerkbaits, reeling it both fast and slow, and something always tried to eat it. The Spoon fly, in my opinion, is the Kastmaster of the fly world. It sinks, it wobbles, and it does everything possible to get a fish’s attention. It’s a go-to fly for redfish along the Gulf Coast, but it’s also effective for northern species like striped bass and bluefish—as well as ambush predators like snook and jacks. The wobble mimics a wounded baitfish when stripped fast and erratically, and it looks crabby when stripped slow. The Spoon is what I reach for when they aren’t eating anything else, regardless of location or species.
28 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 29
Addiction by Joseph Ballarini On my first cast to a bonefish, on Biscayne Bay near Miami in August 2008, I hooked up. We rolled out of Black Point Marina, into a skinny-water eel grass flat that was as smooth as melted glass. The sun was starting to surface in its awesome orange glow, illuminating
the grip on my cork handle started to
the horizon. We saw spiders the size
loosen. The cork was indented from
of birds high up in the mangroves in
the raw pressure of my grip, but it
the early morning light; there may
just didn’t seem tight enough, so I just
HUGE FISH AND A BAD KNOT
have been a bird caught in one of the
kept squeezing. My body felt heavier,
I pulled back on the line and set the
webs. What am I doing here?
and there was little I could do about it.
hook on a roughly 7-pound bonefish.
We traveled by canoe through a very
“Twelve o’clock, about 45 feet. See
bend—because I had never had a fish
small creek. It was shallow, muddy,
them?”
of that brawn on it before. With the
it! Set it! set it!”
My rod bent like I had never seen it
smelled like sulfur, and there were
reel screaming, the mighty bone pulled
lots of bugs. What was I thinking this
I did. There were six or seven big
off about 150 feet of line in a blazing
morning?
bonefish right in front of me—tailing.
initial run that only took seconds.
I’d never seen them tail at such short The creek fed into a small cove named
range. This was my chance to catch
“You are the luckiest guy in the
Black Point about 10 miles south
my first bone on a fly. I was excited,
world,” my guide bellowed. “No one
of Miami Beach. As I was admiring
and I could taste success.
catches a bonefish on their first cast.”
the sunrise, just as we entered the
Technically, it was my second cast,
creek mouth onto the flats, the guide
I completely flubbed the first cast,
but it didn’t matter. As quick as the
whispered, “See them? There they are!”
throwing the fly about 20 feet short
fish was hooked, it was gone. My knot
and about 30 feet to the left of the
gave way, leaving a pig-tailed leader
I was nervous—very nervous. I had
school. I picked up my line with a
shooting back at the canoe. I quickly
just started fly fishing after being
water haul, which at that moment I
retrieved my line, and the guide
a bait chucker since age four, and
really didn’t know existed. Somehow,
grabbed it for a closer look.
frankly, my fly casting wasn’t good.
maybe with the adrenaline or just
“I’ll get you closer,” the guide said.
plain luck, I fired a 40-foot laser into
“You need to check your knots, man,”
“Get ready to cast.” My heart was
the center of the small school of
he said. “You just lost a huge fish
racing at about 120 beats per minute.
tailing bones. I saw a flash of silver
because of a knot.”
I felt my palms getting sweaty, and
and heard the guide scream, “He ate
30 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
I had a pit in my stomach, and for the
the distance. There they were—six or
first time since I was four years old, I
seven bonefish tailing in about a foot
didn’t want to fish anymore. That was
of water on an eel grass flat. They
probably good, because there weren’t
were fat and happy. It almost looked
any more fish that morning. I felt like a
like the same school as that first
complete failure, but there was a part
connection, but the chance of that
of me that thought I could do it again.
was virtually nonexistent.
The optimism kept me coming back.
HERE WE GO AGAIN
Finally, near Matheson Hammock in
I pole with a rope looped around my
Miami, it happened again. It was the
wrist. The rope is tied to the anchor
same scenario, but I had been fishing
line, which allows me to loop the rope
without a guide for about a week. I launched my kayak from the public
around my push pole and gently drop it behind the kayak to drag behind my beach on a pebble shore which wasn’t
vessel, well out of the way. I pushed
far from a channel. It was overcast
hard one more time to get into a
and warm for the time of year, the
better position.
tides were very dramatic, and there was rain on the horizon. Only lightning
I looped my rope, dropped the pole,
would make me leave the flats,
picked up the fly rod, and attempted
especially after waking up at 4:30
to visualize my attack.
a.m. to get on the water by sunrise. But indeed, there was lightning amid
This time I was ready. Calmer, more
the rain on the distant horizon. I
experienced, and a much better
didn’t have much time. My favorite
caster, but still no bones to date,
8-weight was ready, handle at my feet
so the nervousness persisted to a
with the tip off the bow. This time I
significant degree. In this moment,
tied my own leader and checked my
you just accept the tachycardia and
knots twice. I even tied my own fly,
sweaty palms, knowing that the hunt
Peterson’s Spawning Shrimp, my go-to
is on.
bonefish fly at the time. I began my cast, very sloppy and too While poling my kayak over a deep
fast on the backcast, which seems to
boat channel, I saw something in
be the norm while casting when fish
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 31
Then it stopped suddenly. My heart
Within five minutes, my leader was to
sank as I thought the fish was lost.
the tip, and I had a bonefish—my first
In frustration, I began to reel as fast
bonefish—to the side of the kayak. He
as my hand could move and watched
had surrendered. Soaking wet from
the kayak start to drift toward the
the rain, not remotely concerned
direction of the fish’s run. It was still
about the lightning, I pulled him
on. In a few minutes I had retrieved
out of the water, so excited that I
my backing and was back to fly line,
dropped my rod in the water. But it
but at that point the resting fish
didn’t matter.
recovered. There it was—mirrored silver scales, are actually present. I threw a 35-foot
Another screaming run began and
blackish green stripes, unrealistic
lob that hit the water like a rock,
soon put me back into holy crap
pink lips, and my Peterson’s Spawning
just to the right of the tailing fish.
territory. I noticed that the lightning,
Shrimp stuck in its top lip. It was
Fortunately, they were just starting to
which had been far off on the
slippery, slimy, and stinky, but it was
move right. Sometimes it’s better to
horizon, was much closer, and rain
a bonefish, caught on a fly, finally, in
be lucky than good.
began to fall. I was standing on a
my hands.
kayak in Biscayne Bay in a lightning There was almost no light, so little
storm fighting a bonefish that just
It was glorious. The most beautiful
that I was surprised I saw them in
wouldn’t make it easy. I debated
fish I had ever seen. I just stared at
the first place. I couldn’t see what
whether I should break it off and
it, taking in the details for too long
was going on, but before I could
head for shore, but my ego got the
before realizing it was raining hard,
react, something took the fly, and a
best of me, and I refused to let it go.
there was lightning nearby, and this
fish was on.
I was tired of failure and frustration,
poor bonefish couldn’t breathe. I lunged
and I was going for broke. Succeed or
for the camera for a quick photo, but
Again the rod had a ferocious bend
die trying, which in retrospect was
to my dismay the battery was dead.
and a crazy bounce. But this one
incredibly stupid.
Adding more insult, I dropped the fish
wasn’t as big as that first hooked
in the water and stepped on the fly. I
bonefish. It took off into the boat
I started to pressure the fish hard.
channel that I had just crossed, and
Really hard. I was expecting him
before I knew it, it was well into the
to break off at any moment and
One rookie mistake after another.
holy crap part of my backing. Over
become another “almost” story. To
But after months of frustration,
250 feet of backing was gone, and
my amazement, however, he began to
repeated failure, and countless hours
at no point did I have any control of
wilt. He lost his mojo and any desire
of research and investigation, I had
the fish.
to fight. Again, my heart raced. I could
just caught my first bonefish on a fly.
taste success.
I soon realized this was more than an
32 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
can be such a bonehead.
obsession. Perseverance in the face of
Well, I found other fish, plenty of
without reading hundreds of pages
constant failure and determination to
them: tarpon, permit, snook, tuna,
and rooting through piles of garbage.
succeed had turned my obsession into
shark, barracuda, billfish, and
The internet was full of information
a healthy addiction.
roosterfish. There are milkfish, trevally
that was mostly unorganized,
and queen fish in Australia. There
incomplete, and inaccurate, and there
I still had so many questions. Why was
are fish similar to permit in Asia, as
were a lot of people masquerading as
it so hard to find good information
well as a fish in the Indo-Pacific called
authorities.
about fly fishing in salt water? Why
snub-nose pompano. Hawaii has giant
did it take me more than six months to
bonefish. There are many targets
I remember searching for “bonefish
land a bonefish when I’d been
for fly anglers. Each one requires
fly” and getting results for nymph
fishing my whole life? Where are other
a fair amount of knowledge and
fishing in Pennsylvania.
places to fish? What other species are
competence.
as challenging? Where can I get really
Trout fishing is fun, but I wanted to
solid advice and real data? I didn’t
So my search for competence began,
learn about saltwater fly fishing and
have any answers. Then it hit me. I’m a
emphasis on “search.” There were
get better at it.
bonehead . . . a fly fish bonehead.
hundreds if not thousands of websites for fly fishing. To my dismay, most
I wanted to learn how to fly fish
of them were utterly useless. I found
effectively in salt water for the top
While heading back to my truck,
plenty of dead links and lots of self-
ten or 15 species. One fish in six
riding the high of catching my first
serving information that was just
months—that’s not fun, but it was a
bonefish on a fly, lingering questions
trying to sell products or book a trip.
learning process. I was done putting in
A QUEST IN EARNEST
substantially limited my joy. My father
time and paying dues. The addiction
had me out fishing since I was four; it
My research and quest for knowledge
had taken over now; I wanted to hunt
was something I had been doing my
was stymied by a glaring lack of good
for fish, not information.
entire life. Why did I have such a hard
information. I wanted data on species,
time catching a bonefish? Was this
migration patterns, typical foods,
For the next 18 months, I researched
the pinnacle of my fishing experience?
which flies mimicked which foods,
saltwater fly fishing information and
Are other fish going to be as difficult?
destinations, weather conditions,
began to create a database. I fished
What other fish are out there?
and tides. It was stuff I couldn’t find
with every captain that I could from
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 33
Florida to the eastern Caribbean, from
important, an understanding of how
guardian of the ecosystems the
California to Australia, and made
to read water and how to read fish.
fish inhabit. I wanted to make
notes and took photos and video. My
During my travels and time on the
people aware of the problem and do
travels took me to the Florida Keys,
water, perhaps the biggest thing I
something to help support the trusts
Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico, California,
learned was that our waters are in
that study and protect the waters and
Australia, the Bahamas, the Windward
trouble. It was all too common to hear
species.
Islands—anywhere to learn. And I did
captains talk about how plentiful the
just that.
oceans used to be.
I practiced casting and specific
Seeing debris washed up on scenic
Flyfishbonehead. “Hunt for fish,
techniques for casting in wind and less
Caribbean beaches and even in
not information.” That’s catchy, but
desirable conditions. I began studying
Biscayne Bay, polluting the system
there’s a bigger goal. Let’s create
the art of fly tying and collected flies
and endangering the wildlife, was
awareness of dangers posed to our
from all over the world.
troubling. Rips and scars in the sea
ecosystems. Perhaps we can create
AND SO IT BEGAN This was the catalyst for
grass and on manatees from the
a global network of members, and
My science background enabled
carelessness of recreational motor
maybe this network can make a
me to search data, organize it,
boaters. It’s just a matter of time
difference.
and understand it. It became more
before it’s all gone. What if I could create a website with
of a study of the species and the ecosystems that they inhabit
Every time I go out fishing on the
accurate, organized information that
rather than a fly fishing study. If
kayak, I come home with a bag of
promotes the sport of fly fishing in
you understand the behavior of the
trash. Not my trash, but trash that
salt water and supports the charitable
fish, then you understand how to
was floating in our water that I
trusts that support the ecosystems?
target and hunt for that fish. If you
collected for proper disposal. I can’t
know a species’ migration patterns,
tell you how many beer bottles, plastic
for example, why would you need a
bags, and chunks of Styrofoam I’ve
fishing calendar?
collected.
So I did. In 2010, I started organizing my database and planning a website. I
I gathered a lot of solid knowledge
I found that not only was I becoming
had thousands of photos and hours
from all of that traveling, as well
a knowledgeable fly fisherman, but
of video: tuna, blue marlin, sailfish,
as many tips and tricks, and most
also an informed and very concerned
roosterfish, all kinds of sharks,
34 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
it was another year until Tail Fly Fishing Magazine launched in August 2012 during the beta trial of Flyfishbonehead.com. In September 2012, the beta tag came off, and Flyfishbonehead.com striped bass, weakfish, bluefish,
created Flyfishbonehead.com and
was finally officially launched. My
tarpon, bonefish, trevally. I had so
Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.
addiction was fly fishing for bonefish,
much information to sort. It was
but now it has become fly fishing and
overwhelming at first, but after a few
Little did I know how insanely difficult
also making sure future generations
years and many terabytes of storage,
it was going to be to launch a website
of fly anglers get to enjoy the same
it’s now somewhat manageable. And
and magazine. With so many details,
waters and experiences that we now
I’ve kept fishing and traveling.
countless considerations, photos and
enjoy. Perhaps together, as a global fly
videos to edit and process, writing
fishing community, we can even make
My friends and fishing buddies were
copy, and verifying copy to ensure
it better.
initially a bit concerned about my
accuracy, there wasn’t enough time
“addiction.” They later recognized
in the day to get everything done. We
I still remember catching that first
that it had become a healthy outlet
wanted it to be great; everything had
bonefish. Almost getting struck by
for the good of the sport and the
to be perfect. But it didn’t work out
lightning. Dropping a Sage rod in the
environment, and they began to help.
that way.
bay. Stepping on the fly and hooking
Like old college buddies chanting
my foot. I’m a bone head . . . a fly fish
“chug, chug, chug,” they kept me
We were almost a month behind
bonehead. You’d think that would’ve
moving forward and contributed as
schedule, and due to some major
been enough to make me quit. But
much as they could, and in 2011, we
obstacles and a few failed designs,
addiction is a very strange thing.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 35
c u a r da r a b d own k a e r b 36 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
by Chico Fernandez Big barracudas have always been
hooked up, and schools of bonefish
short runs, 20 yards or so, and then
where racing all over the flats as far
made the most spectacular jump I
as I could see. It was fun to watch.
can ever remember out of a ‘cuda. It
one of my favorite fly rod fish—so
was a long jump that had to be more
much so that I’ve always made an
Then I saw a very large dark fish in
effort to have a fully rigged rod in
the distance. It was following one of
case I run into one while fishing for
the schools of bonefish. I couldn’t see
But a few minutes into the fight,
bonefish or permit. And if the area
it well enough, but it was either a
the ‘cuda decided to leave the flat
warrants it, I’ll fish exclusively for
shark or a large barracuda.
and headed for the deep dropoff at
them all day long.
than 20 feet. I’ll never forget it.
high speed. There was nothing I could I had a feeling it was a ‘cuda. So I
do about it except wade after the
To date, I’ve taken seven large
grabbed my 9-weight rod with an old
fish as fast as I could, which wasn’t
‘cudas that were close to 30 pounds
Seamaster Mark II and a ‘cuda fly
very fast, so I was quickly losing
or larger. I remember how many
with No. 4 wire. I had been looking all
line. Meanwhile, the ‘cuda got to the
because those catches are very
trip long for that big barracuda, and
edge of the dropoff, only a few feet
significant and exciting to me. Only
this could be my chance.
from the staked out panga, and kept
snook more than 20 pounds fall into
going. Several of the anglers and the
that category for me. Let me share
I got off the panga, and once on the
guides saw her go by. The next time
my most memorable ‘cuda catch.
hard sand, I had to wade a long time
it jumped, it was an estimated 150 yards away. The big fish was running infinitely faster than I could move by wading. I kept losing line, and by the time I got to the panga, I could see the bottom of the reel with only a few turns of backing left on it. It was a big effort to climb on the panga’s tall freeboard, but as soon as I did, the engine was running and we were chasing the ‘cuda.
before I got within casting range. In the winter of 1988, I hosted a
And then I could see it clearly; it was
trip of 12 anglers to Los Roques,
a big ‘cuda. My heart was pumping,
Venezuela. Fishing was fantastic in
my throat was dry, and I have to
those days. On the last day of the
admit that I was nervous.
trip, four of us rode a 24-foot panga to a large sandy flat that had a very
It wasn’t too windy, and I was up
sharp dropoff at one end. There were
wind of the fish anyway, so it was
schools of bonefish everywhere,
a fairly easy 60-foot cast. The fly
so my anglers got off and started
landed 8 or 10 feet from the fish.
wading after them right away. I
The ‘cuda was excited upon seeing
stayed on the panga, eating half a
the fly, but still, as usual, followed
sandwich while standing on the tip
the fly halfway to me before taking
end of the bow. Soon, everyone was
it. Once hooked, it made a couple of
Now I could start to gain line—very slowly since the reel’s arbor was about the size of a quarter. But eventually I was back in the fly line, and by then the fish had sounded, so now it was just a matter of time. Eventually, I was able to bring the fish to the boat and land it. It tipped the guide’s old scale to 34 pounds. And as I held it for a few quick photos, I knew I would never forget this fish. Not even if I ever caught a bigger one. Which I haven’t.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 37
For pure excitement in shallow water, fly fishing for big barracudas is hard to beat. You are looking for this big alligator-like, sinisterlooking fish, often sitting still on the water’s surface. It’s exciting when you finally spot one. Then, when it chases the fly, it will be pushing a big wake behind it. Equally visible is the strike, often very fast and with a big splash and lots of foam. The whole thing has vicious written all over. Because the barracuda is big and fast, it has the ability to make some long runs. And a large ‘cuda is capable of some of the most spectacular jumps you’ll ever see. They can be very high as well as very long, and all this happens as your reel is screaming. Tarpon also can make spectacular jumps, of course, but ‘cuda jumps have their own personality. It’s different. It’s cool. There are times when the barracuda decides to turn right or left in the middle of a run, and now your fly line starts to cut through the water, leaving a big tail of foam. It’s a sight you won’t soon forget. A big barracuda is probably the most underrated gamefish in the bonefish flats—a truly unsung hero. On the other hand, sight casting to a big ‘cuda in shallow water is not easy, and that, too, makes it exciting Sphyraena barracuda is commonly known as the great barracuda. The extent of its worldwide habitat is phenomenal. They can be found from extremely shallow bonefish flats to reef areas and open ocean. I’ve taken them in a foot of water, trolling in blue water for marlin and dolphin,
38 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
and right on the bottom in more
Behind me, the flat dropped off
than 200 feet of water while deep
to perhaps 3 feet. I had been busy
jigging for grouper and snapper. They
stalking the school of bones, trying to
go anywhere they want.
get in position to cast. I don’t know why, but something made me look
And they grow large. The largest on
behind me, and when I did, I found
record is 102 pounds, taken in Africa.
myself looking at a giant barracuda
But fishing the flats today, one close
only 20 feet away. It was right on
to 20 pounds is a good one, and 30 or
the surface, looking straight at me.
larger is a trophy.
Our eyes met. Neither the ‘cuda nor I moved a muscle.
More than 40 years ago, I was wading after a school of bonefish on the
This went on for a few seconds, and
south end of Turneffe Atoll in Belize.
then, almost instinctively, I cast the
bonefish fly and passed it by the fish. It never acknowledged the cast or the fly; it just kept looking at me, obviously not afraid. I was not as confident; the fish intimidated me. Finally, after what seemed like a long time, it slowly sank to the bottom, where I could still easily see it. It was big, fat, and dark. Forgetting all about the bonefish school, I then decided to back off slowly and head to shore, where I waited for the skiff to come get me. I honestly believe the ‘cuda was bigger than 60 pounds. Later that evening at the camp, when I told my story over drinks, a couple of the old guides told me they also had seen the fish. I still think about it.
BEST TIME OF YEAR Barracuda don’t like hot weather, so the best time of the year for them is late fall through early spring in most places where I’ve fished, including the Bahamas and Florida. “The best time is during colder weather, because it brings baitfish to shallow water and the ‘cudas follow them,” says Captain Alex Zapata, who loves to fish for them from Miami down through the Florida Keys. “My favorite months are February to April. November through January are also good months, providing there isn’t a severe cold front. Then everything can shut down.”
LOOKING FOR BIG ‘CUDAS Good areas include deeper flats, like the areas you would fish for permit. Any light-bottom pothole is always a good place to check out. Shallow wrecks or markers, even in 10 to 20 feet of water, also will have big ‘cudas, often visible right on the surface. And when I can’t find them, another good bet is blind casting in channels around the flats, especially
takes the fly. With a shorter cast, the fish following the fly will often see the boat before making up its mind to take the fly. Then it’s all over. You want to cast a leader’s length beyond the fish so that the fly passes 5 to 8 feet from it. That’s ideal.
THE RETRIEVE As a rule, ‘cudas like the fly to be moving fast. Remember that you’re
on outgoing tides.
using a fly that imitates a baitfish,
In the Bahamas one of my favorite
trying to escape a predator. It usually
places to look for big ‘cudas are areas with large schools of small bonefish, especially if it’s an outside flat closer to deep water. Some of the biggest ‘cudas I see in the flats are in those conditions. “In the Keys, I love a strong incoming tide because it pushes the baitfish into the flats, and the big ‘cudas
which moves very fast when it’s can’t be too fast. I mostly use a onehand retrieve because it’s faster than a two-hand retrieve, at least for me. And always keep the tip of the rod close to the water. But Captain Paul Tejera mentions a situation where a two-hand retrieve makes sense. “I use a one-hand retrieve also, but there are situations,
follow them,” Zapata says.
such as using a popper or casting to
APPROACH AND FLY PLACEMENT
where a steady mid-speed retrieve is
This type of fishing is about making long casts—the longer the better. Large barracuda are very worrisome animals, and they won’t let you get close. And if they do, they simply won’t take the fly. Another reason for the long cast is that ‘cudas have the habit of following a fly for a long time before taking it. A long cast gives a ‘cuda plenty of room before it
‘cudas sitting on a strong current, called for,” he says. “Then I prefer a two-hand retrieve”.
HOOK-UP As with most situations, you need to strip-strike. But often the cuda will take the fly fast, while still coming toward you, creating lots of slack. In this case, you need to use both the strip strike and a rod strike to
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 39
absorb the extra slack and be able to
fish before you let it go. Sharks are
set the hook.
usually nearby.
CLEARING LINE AND THE FIGHT
BARRACUDA FLIES
A big ‘cuda can move very fast,
When selecting a fly for big
especially in short bursts—like a
barracudas, remember you have
cheetah. So when you set the hook,
to be able to cast it far, generally
be ready to see your fly line leave the
in the wind, and with some degree
deck lightning fast. Also, keep the rod
of accuracy. So don’t be tempted
tip low to the water when clearing
to select a fly that is too big or too
the line. It reduces the possibility of
bulky. I prefer a short-shank hook
any slack, and helps keep tension on
to a long shank because they are
the line.
lighter for the same size gap and have better hooking capabilities.
The fight in the flats won’t be long;
But certain streamer and popper
those super-fast runs and acrobatic
patterns that I like require a long-
jumps soon take their toll. The same
shank hook, so I still use them when I
fish in deep water will fight a bit
can afford to accept the trade-off.
longer, but still not real long. I like that philosophy. Be careful,
Stinger hooks—adding a second
however, because a barracuda can
hook to the fly—can be effective.
By the time a big ‘cuda is next to the
cut you to ribbons. If you are with a
Barracuda often strike in the middle
boat, it is exhausted. I much prefer
guide, let the guide handle the fish.
of the fly, trying to cut the fish in
to handle them by hand as opposed
Using gloves may also help. And to
half, causing them to miss the main
to lifting them by lip-gaffing, which is
remove the hook, I always use one of
hook up front. But these flies are
not good for any fish.
the many long tools available for the
heavier, so it’s harder to make that
task. Just be careful.
long cast that is so important. I
LAND AND RELEASE
“I handle the big ‘cuda like it’s a bonefish,” Tejera says.
40 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
also don’t think these flies swim as Finally, take your time reviving the
naturally, so you get more refusals,
especially in areas that have a lot of
you can try a clear weight-forward
one while fishing for bonefish or
pressure. Personally, I don’t use them.
floating line so that the line is less
some other species, there’s no time
visible to the fish. You may not be
to take out a heavier rod, check the
When selecting a fly, just remember
able to see the fly line in the air as
leader, find the wire, tie it to the
that a big ‘cuda’s diet is mainly fish,
well, but the big fly would be easy
tippet, and so on. There’s just not
not shrimp or crabs. Good choices are
to see during the false casting, and
enough time.
the classic baitfish patterns with big
that’s good enough. I often use them
eyes in a variety of light colors with
with good results. And they’re perfect
But if you have a 9- or 10-weight fully
a darker back. I also love an all-white,
for blind casting.
rigged and ready, it’s just a matter
all-orange, or all-chartreuse fly. All
of dropping the bonefish rod, taking
patterns should have some flash as
LEADERS
out the cuda rod, and starting your
an attractor. In terms of size, most
A 10-foot leader with more than 50
false cast.
of my big ‘cuda flies are about 5 to 6
percent butt section will perform
inches in length.
well, although I usually prefer 60
If you are committed to barracuda
percent butt section. If the fish are
fishing and not concerned with other
Another popular pattern is tied with
spooky and you’re a good caster, go
species, then I suggest having two
braided hair, long and skinny, often
to a 12-foot leader, or better yet, go
rods rigged with different flies—
on a long-shank hook. It may have
to a clear floating fly line. Tippets
maybe a streamer on one rod and
painted eyes and epoxy on the front
from 12 to 20 pounds are ideal. My
a popper on another. When you get
of the hook. It has taken lots of
preference is usually 16 pounds.
to a deep channel that looks good,
‘cudas over the years. But somehow
take out the popper and ring the The wire bite tippet can be plain No.
dinner bell. When you go back to a
4 or No. 5 wire or any of the plastic-
shallow area, it may be preferable to
I also like a long popper, especially for
coated cables that can be tied like
go back to the streamer fly. And if
blind casting in deeper flats, channels,
monofilament. They both work. But
you get a refusal, you can quickly pick
or around shallow-water wrecks. A
don’t use a very long bite tippet,
up the other rod and offer the fish
popper is a great dinner bell.
because it’s harder to cast and you’ll
something different.
it’s not my first choice.
get more refusals, especially from
FLY ROD, REEL, AND LINE
the bigger fish. My wire bite tippet
EATING BARRACUDAS?
I like 9- and 10-weight rods because
is usually 4 to 7 inches, depending
If you are considering a barracuda
their fly lines are heavy enough
on conditions. That’s usually long
to eat, keep in mind that ciguatera
to cast the weight of a big fly and
enough that the ‘cuda probably won’t
poisoning is an issue. It occurs more
wire bite tippet a long distance, but
get to the mono tippet if it swallows
often in larger fish, but can also be
they’re still light enough that I can
the fly, but light enough that I can
present in smaller fish. Ciguatera
cast them all day if needed.
still make a long cast. If conditions
poisoning is caused by eating a
are making it tough for me to make
fish that contains toxins from a
Any reel that balances with a
the long cast, I’ll usually reduce the
marine mircoalgae. People who have
9-weight or 10-weight is going to
wire’s length to 4 inches to reduce
ciguatera may experience nausea,
have more than 200 yards of backing,
weight.
vomiting, and neurological symptoms
which is more than enough to stop most barracuda.
such as tingling in the extremities.
BE PREPARED
Symptoms usually go away in a few
If you really want to catch a big
days or weeks, but sometimes they
A weight-forward floating line is all
barracuda, the most important
can last for years. Ciguatera has no
you need. If you are a good caster
advice—besides practicing a long
cure, but it can be treated.
and can carry a lot of line in the air,
cast—is to have a rod in the boat
then a line with a long belly would
rigged and ready strictly for
My advice is to release the ‘cuda and
help you make longer casts. Also,
barracuda. Generally, when you see
eat a mangrove snapper.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 41
GEAR GUIDE SCIENTIFIC ANGLERS REGULATOR SPOOL
Switching out fly lines from reels and spare spools and keeping them tidy and organized is a headache all fly anglers experience. Well, Scientific Anglers just made our lives a little less complicated. The Regulator Line Winder is an ingenious device that allows seamless line removal and storage in kink-free coils. Its retractable inner pegs fold in once the line is wound, and notches in the housing keep pipe-cleaner twist-ties in place to secure the line in a neat bundle. The housing disassembles with an easy twist, retracting the inner pegs, and voilá, your wound
LOON QUICKDRAW ROD SLEEVE AND ERGO QUICK RELEASE
Loon Outdoors has been making industry standard fly-tying tools and adhesives for more than 20 years, but if we thought fly tying was their only bag, we’d be wrong. Loon has released a number of cool gadgets that we think fly rod owners will love as much as we do. One of our favorites, the Quickdraw Rod Sleeve, allows anglers to store rods fully rigged and ready to go. It ensures the rod’s finish, guides, and lines won’t get damaged, whether they’re on the floor of a skiff or in the back of a truck. It’s a great way to keep multiple rigged rods from having their lines become twisted when walking out to the boat or through the woods. They’re available in a variety of sizes and lengths, easy to use, and take up very little space in a boat bag. The Ergo Quick Release is a hook-removal tool with just the right angles and edges. It allows an angler to efficiently unhook landed fish with minimal handling. While there are many similar products out there, we really like this tool’s ergonomic handle, durable stainless construction, and versatility. We also appreciate its ability to handle a variety of hook sizes and flies. $13 and $19 (loonoutdoors.com)
42 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
line is perfectly delivered. Its light, compact design makes it an easy addition on travel trips. And with no metal parts, it’s completely saltwater-proof. Our only suggestion would be another model with a bigger overall diameter, as many prefer to store lines less-tightly wound to prevent memory. $29.95 (scientificanglers.com)
MACKENZIE’S HAND SCRUB AND SALVE
The folks at MacKenzie’s like to say that this stuff will liberate the stinkiest of blood, scales, and slime from hands. And even though fly anglers aren’t usually handling bait and bloodying fish, we all can benefit from this hand soap’s perfect blend of scouring walnut husks and pleasant deodorizing essential oils.
FISHPOND THUNDERHEAD BACKPACK
Most of us know Fishpond for its impeccably made products with unique design features. They’re made to tackle some of the harshest environments an angler can expect to encounter. The redesigned and updated Thunderhead series of packs and slings certainly lives up to demanding standards. We finally had a chance to put the fully submersible backpack through its paces. The biggest brother of them all did not disappoint. The pack’s sheer toughness is impossible to overlook. Being made from 1680D TPU coated nylon, it looks and feels bombproof. What really sets it apart from its competitors is the waterproof TIZIP zipper closure system. While other packs utilize a roll-top enclosure, the Thun-
Whether oil and grime embedded from a garage project or garlic/onion essence from the preparation of a fresh fish dinner, Mackenzie’s will keep hands feeling smooth and smelling fresh. Their hand salve is able to tackle the driest cracked palms and fingers. We keep a supply at the kitchen sink and the boat bag—and use it regularly. $9.95-$46.95 (fishermanhandscrub.com)
derhead zipper offers conventional top access using finger loops on either end to slide the mechanism. It just feels completely impenetrable, and on our tests in the elements, it was. Like most waterproof gear, the backpack has a simple interior. The only extra storage is a removable zipper pocket for small items like cell phone or wallet. The exterior, however, has a number of gear attachments and ergonomic—and surprisingly comfortable—shoulder and hip straps. It can be integrated with other Fishpond products like the chest pack. It also has attachment points for Fishpond’s Quickshot Rod Holder for wet wading with multiple rods. The Thunderhead Submersible is a versatile, highly durable backpack that maintains comfort and fishability while offering uncompromising protection from the elements. Thumbs up! $299.95 (fishpond.com)
TAIL TAIL FLY FLYFISHING FISHING MAGAZINE MAGAZINE 43
GEAR GUIDE SKWALA FISHING
Skwala Fishing, based in southwestern Montana, is a fledgling apparel and gear company focused on fly fishing. The founders bring years of high-level industry experience and meticulous attention to detail to their design features. We couldn’t be more excited about a new player in the business and welcome the fresh perspective on products we all use on the water. We recently got our hands on two items in their Sol Collection: the Sol Tactical Hoody and the Sol Wading Pant. The durability and quality design hooked us first. These feel like huge upgrades from the average solar shirts and pants. The hoody has moisture-wicking, quick-drying breathable fabric and 50 UPF sun protection that we’ve come to expect from high-end products. But these items stand out from the crowd because of unique features like the Primeflex™ ultra-durable fabric in high-wear areas and low-profile pockets in key areas that don’t compromise mobility. Likewise, the wet-wading pants are made from a unique microporous fabric that feels solid enough to slog through the flats all day but light and liberating enough to remain comfortable and unobtrusive. Skwala also offers a full line of fishing jackets and waders, and we look forward to field testing them. $119 each (skwalafishing.com)
MONIC PHANTOM TIP - PERMIT
Readers know we like Monic lines because they’re made in the USA and PVC-free. They’re also really great lines. The Phantom Tip permit taper employs a gradual head and 15 feet of clear tip for a delicate and stealthy presentation. The head design allows for a more delicate presentation on long casts, while 20 feet of belly provides the ability to make that cast. We’ve found that the sweet spot for casting this line is about 35-40 feet, which coincides with the last part of the belly. $119.99 44 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
(monic.com)
WILKIE BRAND MESA 5
Wilkie Brand shirts may not be typical fly fishing gear, but they are essential for making an impact when arriving in a tropical airport for a week of fishing with friends. Sure, most anglers will arrive in typical high-performance fishing shirts, but stepping onto the tarmac in the dark grey, short-sleeved western shirt with the tan Hawaiian-pattern yoke will immediately get a fisherman into the proper island state of mind. Don’t be afraid to fish for ditch tarpon after dinner in this 65/35 cotton-poly blend shirt with snazzy pearl snaps. It’s an article of clothing that won’t be too badly wrinkled after it’s been stuffed in a duffle in the overhead. We like to couple it with a shapablebrim, raffia straw Stetson, but we’ll skip that review since our fishing buddies no longer allow it on the boat (too many windy mishaps while flying across the flats in search of big bonefish). We highly recommend this shirt for the discerning traveler who likes to make a splash. $59 (wilkiebrand.com)
TOADFISH NON-TIPPING 10-OUNCE WINE TUMBLER There’s a lot going on with the Toadfish® Non-Tipping 10-ounce Wine Tumbler, including a couple of features that make this vessel completely different from others we’ve seen or used. The first is the SmartGrip® technology that keeps the cup upright even in the choppiest sees. It’s a suction system that can be stuck to any smooth surface such as the fiberglass on a skiff. The system’s upside is also its downside—it sticks hard. While great on the boat, be careful with that glass-top coffee table in the lodge. The other great feature is the glass insert. The company says the insert is designed to enhance the aroma of wine, but we use it exclusively as a convenient container for bourbon, tequila, or mezcal. We wish the lid was a bit more leak resistant, but overall, this is a great boat cup that will not tip over. $24 (toadfish.com)
ORVIS FLATS HIKER (SPRING 2023)
These are without a doubt the best flats shoes to hit the market in a long while. The Flats Hiker is like a sneaker with a built-in raincoat. This stylish shoe has a top layer covering the actual protective shoe within. The Michelin soles are flexible and have a non-slip tire tread, making them feel good when walking as well. Zip open the outer layer to reveal a well-padded and comfortable sneaker-type shoe on the inside. Theres’ a wide-grip handle on the heel that makes them easy to pull on, accommodating even the thickest fingers. The laces are hunting-boot style and loosen easily even when wet. Once on and laced up, zip the outer layer and adjust the velcro closure at the top to your preference of tightness around the sock or lower leg. A very well-designed and comfortable flats shoe—something we all needed. $249 (orvis.com)
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 45
GEAR GUIDE TORNADO ANCHORS
Designed for river beds, this handmade anchor is also quite handy on the flats. While it was designed to adjust to the constantly changing bottom of stone river beds, we asked to try one in the salt. We didn’t think this style of anchor would hold a skiff in a strong current or high winds, but it surprised us. The Tornado will plane a bit if dragged. This adds resistance and allows for the shifting plates to grab and catch. It actually grabs in sand pretty well, even better on softer bottoms, and best on hard bottoms. It didn’t get caught up in underwater debris nearly as often as traditional anchors, but it did hang up once (all anchors do at some point). The best part is it’s easy to rinse and store and has far better aesthetics than other anchors. It you’re looking for a better anchor, check out the Tornado. The 24- to 45-pound models should be sufficient for most skiffs, and you can also add the “Anchor Nest,” which is a nice storage box to fit in your hatch, for an additional charge. $160-$250 (tornadoanchorsusa.com)
TERVIS TUMBLER
Tervis is a third-generation, American-owned-andoperated company known for durable drinkware with great insulation properties. The company’s 20-ounce and 30-ounce stainless tumblers are not unlike those offered by their competitors, who are perhaps more recognizable to the average consumer these days. But we think Tervis offers a great alternative at significant savings. They promise their tumbler’s double-walled design will keep beverages hot for up to 8 hours or cold for 24. We did our own overnight ice-water test with a big-name tumbler and found the melt rate basically identical. We especially love the look and feel of the tarpon, redfish, and mahi-mahi skin prints—reason enough to own a new Tervis Tumbler. $27.99 (tervis.com)
46 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
VANNKRIGER SOLAR STEALTH PERFORMANCE SHIRT
In a virtual sea of apparel for anglers and outsiders in general, some are well done while many are . . . well, let’s just say some are well done. Vannkriger is a new entry in performance wear, and they got a lot of things right. The rolled double-stitched seams and sleeves are aesthetically appealing and very comfortable on sticky summer days. The “athletic” fit is accurate, so you’ll have to suck in that gut for your grip-and-grin. The sleeves are a little long, providing an extra bit of sun protection. It’s definitely not your standard tech shirt, and it’s a very good value. $45 (vannkriger.com)
SKULLCANDY CRUSHER EVO WIRELESS HEADPHONE
As fly anglers, we sometimes subject ourselves to long flights to get to the remote destinations required for bucket-list fish. A crying baby or overly talkative neighbor in the seat next to us can make a long day of travel even longer. The Skullcandy Crusher line is a noise-suppressing headphone that performs very well at a lower price point than some of the better-known brands in the highfidelity space. One of the more impressive features is the 40-hour battery life that’s coupled with rapid-charging technology. The expanded bass is great for the island music we like when traveling to the Caribbean, and the ear cups are very comfortable. One of my favorite additions to this product is the Tile finding technology, which is great if you’re like us and constantly losing things. Very nice headphones for the price. $199 (skullcandy.com)
FISH HIPPIE DRIFT PERFORMANCE SHORT
The Fish Hippie Drift Performance Short is lightweight and quick-drying, constructed from 93 percent nylon and 7 percent spandex. The shorts have a decent amount of stretch but still hold their shape well. The company has been very responsive to minor flaws we’ve encountered, and they stand behind their products. One pair had some loose stitching after months of hard wear, and Fish Hippie quickly replaced them. These shorts make great fishing or hiking shorts because of a high level of comfort and ability to dry quickly, but they can double as dressier shorts if necessary. $88 (fishhippie.com)
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 47
WIDE 48 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
OPEN by Gilbert Rowley
point that, pound for pound, it has
If you can’t tell already, I’m a trout
more power than possibly any other
guy from the West who’s slowly gain-
I never imagined my first saltwater
species in the ocean. I always pic-
ing experience in the salt. My percep-
fish on a fly would be a yellowfin
tured myself in a bonefish kiddie pool
tions are proving to be far from reality
tuna. Never would I have thought of
somewhere, casting to tailing fish
on many levels; I’m not even sure if
myself hooking up with a fish that
that also have great power but on a
there exists a place equivalent to a
has been genetically blessed to the
much smaller scale.
bonefish kiddie pool. But this article
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 49
isn’t just about my saltwater angling dreams, but rather the experience of creating a story through film that would portray the beauty, strength, and pure awesomeness of not only these fish, but also the efforts needed to pursue such creatures.
THE ADVENTURE In Southern California off the coast of San Diego, I’ve teamed up with Captain Mark Martin of San Diego Saltwater Fly Fishing, and his good friend Alex Beck, both of whom are seasoned bluewater anglers who really know their stuff when it comes to chasing pelagics. My primary mission is to capture footage and document their experience. After leaving the wake-free zone, Mark throttles down his 200 horsepower outboard in the direction his instincts are telling him. Keeping in mind that yellowfin are not typically found within 20 to 30 miles of shore, he tells me to relax and enjoy the choppy boat ride. “Choppy” turns out to be an understatement. For a guy who spends little time on the ocean, I soon begin to turn green. But with much determination I keep my composure and don’t see the contents of my stomach for nearly three hours. We see our first set of diving birds not far beyond the 20-mile range. Mark explains to me that the birds are our eye in the sky. Driven by hunger, they seek out schools of baitfish being pushed to the surface by larger pelagic feeders such as tuna. Find the birds, and you find the fish; it’s that simple. Alex already has a 12-weight in hand, rigged and ready to rock. My camera gear is set up, ready to roll, and I’m fortunate to capture Alex’s first cast, which results in a quick eat, a screaming reel,
50 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
and an exhausting battle between
the camera rolling, curious as to what
fish and man.
will take place when a larger fish is hooked.
The effort turns up a tuna in the 10-pound range, which makes Mark
For the next two hours, I’m blown
and Alex both smile and explain that
away by the pure strength and
this is merely a baby compared to
determination of the yellowfin tuna.
what we’re hoping for. My mind turns
Mark and Alex repeatedly cast into
upside down, wondering how a fish
the underwater chaos of cruising
considered small could make a reel
fish, hooking up time and time again.
spin that fast for that long. I keep
None of the first dozen fish are over
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 51
15 pounds. Tuna typically congregate in schools of similar-sized fish, so Mark is thinking of searching out a different group of tuna that may produce larger fish. All I’m thinking about is how to keep my breakfast down. The swell is rocking us all over the place, and I’m wondering how the two of them are capable of fishing under these conditions. Without me knowing, Mark has noticed my discomfort and offers me a turn at casting to the cruising tuna. Confident in the footage I have gathered thus far, I decide taking a break from the camera is probably a good idea. A few casts into it and
Mark’s seasoned guide skills kick in as
this tuna crosses my mind. As the
I go tight to my first saltwater fish.
he coaches me on what to do better
fish approaches the boat, I’m expect-
Like a rookie, I fail to clear the line
next time. He helps me maintain my
ing a 60-pounder. Turns out my fish
adequately and end up with minor
confidence, and I begin casting once
is just another little guy. I’m totally
line burns on my fingers and a bust-
more. Only minutes later, I strip-set,
surprised.
ed-off fly. And all this time I thought
clear the line to the reel, and endure
the steelhead, muskie, and salmon
through the longest initial run I’ve
THE FISHERY
battles I’ve experienced would have
ever experienced from a fish. Minutes
For the last two seasons, local anglers
prepared me for tuna. I couldn’t have
later, my rod arm is burning, but I’m
and guides have been astonished at
been more wrong.
all smiles as the thought of landing
the number of tuna showing up in
52 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
their waters. San Diego consistently
that are very small known as “rete
school of fish. The day continues this
experiences good numbers of yellow-
mirable,” which assist in elevating
way as I experience my first wide-
fin, but the warmer waters accompa-
their body temperatures. Warmer
open tuna bite. For the next three
nying El Niño may be playing a major
muscles produce faster chemical re-
days the seas calm, and so does my
role in allowing more fish to move
actions that add power and strength
stomach (thanks to a Dramamine
into more northern regions off the
to their swimming abilities. This sets
patch), and we successfully chase,
coast of Southern California. This has
them apart from most other fish spe-
catch, and film these amazing crea-
provided Mark and his clients a fish-
cies. For example, yellowfin tuna are
tures. Mark and Alex both find the
ery of a lifetime. When we first began
among the fastest fish in the ocean,
larger fish they’re looking for, and I’m
to discuss putting together a project
reaching speeds over 40 mph when
successful in capturing the footage
filming off the coast of San Diego, we
bursting toward a fleeing meal, es-
needed to compile a compelling story.
hadn’t decided that our target would
caping predators, or peeling line from
But the adventure doesn’t end there.
be tuna. Once the season began,
a large-arbor reel. Another notable
Mark quickly realized the opportunity
feature that was impressive to see
THE DISTRACTION
to document the most epic tuna bite
in person were the grooves directly
Going back to our second day on the
in 20 years. As if a few amazing tuna
behind each fin in the front half of
water, we made a brave move, travel-
couldn’t assist in the production of
the fish’s back. These grooves allow
ing more than 40 miles to water that
a sweet film, we had lots of hungry
the fins to completely retract within
was virtually untouched by other an-
aggressive yellowfin willing to play a
the tuna’s body to reduce drag when
glers. We were searching for a giant
part, and even a cameo by an amaz-
additional speeds are needed and
“jewel” tuna to place atop our film’s
ing bluefin tuna.
maneuvering is not. Just one more
crown. When no such fish was found,
added feature that makes these
we began our journey back toward
exceptional fish pound for pound as
land. Fortunately, luck was in our
strong and fast as any fish in ocean.
favor, and we quickly stumbled across
THE FISH Every fish in the ocean has characteristics that aid its survival. Tuna
a series of kelp patties that had drift-
are unique in that they’re partially
BACK TO THE ACTION
warm-blooded fish. Sounds crazy,
After leaving the first school of tuna,
forests where they originated. The
right? Most fish are cold-blooded,
we cruise for a short time before
12-weight rods were dismissed, and
which leaves them unable to regulate
Mark spots another group of diving
Alex picked up a loaded 10-weight
their body temperatures above that
birds. He and Alex both cast, and
ready for action while Mark posi-
of the surrounding water. But tuna
both hook up. The fight is on once
tioned the boat in a manner that
have additional arteries and veins
again, as if we had never left the first
would allow us to drift 40 feet off
ed far from the inland underwater
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 53
54 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 55
or smaller. Another cast, more patty fish. No dorado. Third cast . . . well crap, good thing I didn’t place any bets on this patty. We left the remote waters that day with Mark and Alex each having landed a handful of outstanding dorado. I, on the other hand, am still hoping to one day connect with a beautiful, athletic bull dorado that will blow my mind. In the meantime, I will simply have to settle with the memories of tuna running me 200 yards into my backing in mere seconds. The strength and power of a torpedo trying to reach its target far beyond the patty. Mark explained that loads
tire and stop jumping 5 feet out of
the water’s surface, not to mention
of baitfish congregate around these
the water?! It was the only thought
the images burned into my mind of
floating structures for protection.
I had as I positioned the camera on
the splendid beauty exhibited by the
Any time there are baitfish, larger
both angler and fish. The fight was
yellowfin . . . I think I’m going to be
predators show up to feed.
much different than that of a tuna,
okay waiting for my dorado.
but what these fish lacked in direct On Alex’s first retrieve, I couldn’t
horsepower, they made up for in
believe what I was seeing: A school of
style. I quickly developed dorado envy
giant brightly colored fish followed
and wanted more than anything to
his fly back to the boat. His fly had
experience catching one of these fish.
caught the attention of at least 20 aggressive dorado that were hanging
Mark and Alex agreed that I would
around the patty looking for an easy
get the first shot at the next stop.
meal. Mark quickly joined in casting,
We quickly found another large patty;
and an incredible double hook-up
the odds of hooking a dorado seemed
ensued. Each angler was locked on to
to be in my favor. First cast, and the
a double-digit dorado that performed
only followers were a pod of small
incredible acrobatic moves over and
patty fish curious of my fly. Most
over. Are these fish ever going to
were the size of my baitfish imitation
56 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 57
: s ey K e th of rt ea H e Th a Marathon Journal
By Stephen Collector
My tropical initiation on the
opportunity for an extended stay.
island’s culture—where I could find
flats began with a photography
Better late than never.
it. Having a couple of cameras sweetened the mix.
assignment when I was in my 30s. It was more a rite of passage than
When we arrived in the Keys last
a gig.
winter, I was reading Bob Dylan’s
Beyond escaping the harshest
memoir, Chronicles. I thought I knew
two months of a Colorado winter,
The Caribbean archipelago known as
what he meant when he penned, “I
we expected to do some biking,
the Florida Keys enchanted me, in
felt done for, an empty burned-out
exploring, snorkeling, sea kayaking,
part related to some of my literary/
wreck. Too much static in my head
and of course, fishing. Several
artist heroes: Jim Harrison, Russell
and I couldn’t dump the stuff. I was
entries from the journal follow.
Chatham, and Tom McGuane. I spent
what they called over the hill. The
a week with those guys in Key West
mirror had swung around and I could
on a magazine shoot in the 1980s.
see the future—an old actor fumbling
Their romance with the region
in garbage cans outside the theater
in a bad fun-house mirror at
sparked my imagination in places
of past triumphs.”
the dreaded snowbird. And I had
The Publix Market was like looking
ostensibly joined the club—with
like Key West, Islamorada, and Big Pine Key.
February 2
What I sought, having just completed
the wrinkles, the vexing sunspots,
a 2,400-mile cross-country migration
and the gray hair to prove it. But
To a lesser degree, I was also aware
from Colorado with our stuff and
enough with morbidity. . . . Before
of consummate anglers like Stu Apte,
aging bird dog, was a fresh start.
our departure, I had reached out to Alex Zapata, a flats guide who’d
Steve Huff, and Guy de la Valdene, who directed the cult documentary
With my wife, Leigh, and our Brittany,
fished us in the backcountry last
Tarpon. What I encountered then was
we rolled into a rental property at
spring. Could I catch bonefish
a charming village that had yet to
the shoreline of Boot Key in the
wading flats from shore from
experience the explosive development
village of Marathon to begin our
public-access areas, I queried?
that would eventually transform
adventure on Feb. 1. Two months
Zapata replied: “Hi, Steve. There is
the Conch Republic into a glorified
seemed a wide expanse of time to
little to no wade fishing in the Keys.
indulge my obsessions. Marathon
There are only a couple of flats that
was strategically between Key West
have road or public access, and the
A ten-day visit last spring rekindled
and Islamorada. I kept a journal,
fishing is not productive. Long Key
a latent bond. Nearly 35 years later,
which would come to reflect more
or Bahia Honda Park are pretty
I had finally arrived at the stage of
than angling adventures, because
much your only choices. You might
life where I had both the means and
I was just as curious about the
get a barracuda here and there . . .
boutique.
58 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 59
that’s it. You need tons of luck to catch a bonefish from shore down here in those two spots. While still limited, you can expand your range and your chances a bit with a kayak. You need a skiff in the keys.” Having done some research on the web, I was pretty sure I’d prove Alex wrong. . . . We provisioned our shopping cart with exotic produce like Sumo oranges, chayote, and dragon fruit, stocked up at a liquor store with Havana Club rum and Coronita beer— then we eagerly returned to our new digs. February 5
Pulled into Conch Key for a Cuban
isn’t simply escape, but a chance
water, and fresh puzzles to solve.
coffee at a waterside café called El
to change your point of view, get a
. . . We arrived at Long Key State
Habanero. The sweet, potent brew
fresh perspective, and rediscover the
Park, paid the admission fee, and
brought us right back to old Havana.
world—and maybe oneself. For the
geared up. I tied a shrimp jig head
The thing about travel is that it
angler, it’s unknown country, new
to Leigh’s spinning rod, and strung
60 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
my 8-weight. I tied on a pink shrimp
was essential. Not only that, but I
hoping to find unpressured water.
imitation, and we waded out into the
may have inadvertently spooked fish
Not long after I noticed the ray, I
incoming tide on the Atlantic side.
by blind casting. You stalk or hunt
saw a few horseshoe crabs scuttling
The bottom was soft in places, a
the fish before you attempt a cast.
around, and then a huge school of
combination of sand and turtle grass.
The wading angler can get quite close
iridescent glass minnows. This was
The 74-degree water was delightful.
to both permit and bonefish—far
more like it. I’d mistimed the tide,
A few tourists were paddling around
closer than a skiff. Fish will bolt when
arriving too early in the outgoing
in sea kayaks. I was the only fly
an angler moves his rod, or pushes a
tide. Straining to see through the
fisherman. Unable to see very far
small wake. In the skinny water, the
shifting light, I saw what I thought
in front of me, I waded cautiously,
fish are anxious, and clumsiness has
was a bonefish. I made one false cast
shuffling my feet for rays. We
consequence, as do casts that result
and punched out the line. The shrimp
would see several skates, which are
in a slap.
pattern landed too far in front, but I
harmless. A turtle popped his head
got a brief follow before the fish shot February 7
away. I put another cast out front
The skeletal silhouette of the dead
that was ignored. Wading nearby, a
out forever. The sea, its variations
mangrove tree haunted the flat,
long shadow moved parallel. It was
of greens and blues, felt like a warm
hard by the shoreline. I walked into
the unmistakable outline of a shark.
embrace. If I didn’t have my pack, I
the raking afternoon light past
My blood pressure soared. It was
would have dived in. Blind casting for
the construction warning sign,
dark, but when I saw its red striped
a while, it surprised me when I got a
clopping through the shallow, soft
fin, I was relieved—a nurse shark.
grab. I easily reeled in a small, ugly
bottom in my booties. A few steps
Swimming 20 feet away, it wasn’t
puffer fish. Then, as I was removing
into the Atlantic and I startled a
interested in my presence, and as
the fly, the little bastard chomped off
stingray, waving its long dark tail
it finned away, I tried to take it all
the edge of my thumb. . . . Few fish
and holding its deadly spines erect.
in—ideal water temperature; breeze
were visible. We moved locations. I
It was my second time wade fishing
out of the northeast; the palate of
would learn over at the Fly Shop that
for bonefish at Long Key State Park.
color, from chartreuse tinged tan
I broke a couple of cardinal rules; it
After 30 minutes of stalking the vast
to jade, the various shades of blue.
was imperative to have the sun at
flat, sometimes wading up to my
. . . It required all my concentration
your back, and seeing the fish first
waist, I had seen nothing. So I moved,
to make out the next couple of
up 50 yards offshore. On the vast, wide flat, it felt like one could wade
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 61
and slowly made their way south through the Intracoastal Waterway. Occasionally, they sailed out and made ocean passages. They took their time and stopped where they favored. In Charleston, they stopped for a few weeks; West Palm Beach the same. For a month they berthed in Jacksonville, and fell in love with Fort Pierce, where they idled for a quiet few months. It took a little over a year to make their way to Key West. “Jacob and I did a majority of it together, all the way to West Palm Beach, until he was called into work. From Miami south I sailed solo,” she said. At first they took 12-hour shifts. Much of the time they spent little time together. Hope had the night shift, where she saw shooting stars and moonlit channels, and Jacob did the day shift, where he witnessed hundreds of dolphins and similar boaters, all seeking warmth. Together, they watched every sunrise and sunset throughout the entire passage. She was struggling to score enough money working on a party boat to retrofit her sloop. bonefish, but they were there. I may
clothes, no makeup, and her light
have spooked them because they
brown hair was unbrushed, it couldn’t
refused my presentations. . . . What
disguise her beauty. I asked if I could
mattered most to me was that I was
take her portrait. Later, I arrived
Key in the morning, where I’d been
wading in the ocean, covered up from
at the Marathon City Marina. She
uselessly wade fishing, I noticed a
the tropical sun, my fly rod in hand;
stowed my gear in her dinghy, and
couple of anglers down on a pullout
while back in Colorado, it was early
we motored slowly through the
across from a vast trailer park on
February in “the cruelest month,”
marina and into a winding channel.
Ohio Key, so I did a U turn. There
to adapt T. S. Eliot for the Rockies.
Her modest maritime home, the
were two guys with tall stepladders
It was just a matter of time—or so I
Presto, moored along a thick hedge
stringing fly rods. I introduced myself
thought.
of mangroves in Sister’s Creek, was
to Jeff Smith and his stepson, Jonas.
a sloop with one mast, two sails, February 12
I learned they’d recently moved to
and a headsail in front. For just
Marathon from Colorado Springs. Jeff
A day-fishing charter service
under $20K, she and her husband
was an experienced fishing guide.
advertising low rates piqued my
purchased the 1980 C&C Landfall
With their approval, I tagged along as
curiosity, so I biked over. That’s where
38-footer, which she still thought
they waded far out onto a wide flat
I met Hope, who bore a striking
was a damn good deal. They had
at slack low tide. At one point, where
resemblance to Margaux Hemingway.
sailed out of Wrightsville Beach,
I was in almost chest deep water,
Though she wore tattered work
North Carolina, about a year ago,
a large shark swam by me about a
62 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
February 26
Returning home from Little Torch
out on the channel side and cast my shrimp, which it luckily ignored. It looked super fishy on the north side of the island, a perfect sand flat with skinny water. Schools of small fish were hiding in the grassy places, perfectly invisible. The light was excellent, the wind at my back, so I had no excuses. Either I couldn’t see fish, or the flats were unoccupied. . . . I hoped to see tarpon in the channel. After three hours, I worked my way to shore, feeling lonely as I watched my footing for a ray. It wasn’t my morning. . . . In the afternoon, on foot away. According to Smith, he’d
The offering landed mid stream, and
caught tarpon, bonefish, and permit
the incoming tide took the shrimp
while wading on this flat. With a
down and away, like the current in a
heavy backpack jammed with tackle,
river. Holding the mono between my
food, and water, he carried three
fingers, I felt tapping. I’d made a few
rods and the heavy ladder. The two
adjustments from previous failures.
would spend the entire day moving
After my third attempt here, with
with the tide. I took pictures for an
20-pound wire leader, and baiting the
hour, though they had no hook-ups,
shrimp from the tail, I began hooking
and then returned home. . . . After
them. I caught several small snappers
arriving at the unit, it was off to Big
before I reeled in a keeper. Then I
Pine and the landmark No Name Pub
hooked and landed a yellow jack. Fish,
for conch fritters and Islamorada IPA.
it’s what’s for dinner. With dinner on
Little Torch Key, my slave cylinder
ice, I shed my shirt and plunged in for
failed and, unable to shift the
March 3
a refreshing swim in the blue hole,
transmission, the truck broke down.
A bike ride out to Pigeon Key. . . .
then stretched out on the coral shelf,
Four hours later, with yet another
Afterward, we drove across the Bahia
soaking up the sunshine.
dent in the credit card, a wrecker towed it back to Marathon.
Honda Bridge to the public Horseshoe Beach. While seafood markets were plentiful, it was an aim of mine to
March 11
Wade fished Ohio Key on the
March 25
A cold front barreled in from the
catch our supper. I had my lousy
outgoing tide. Arrived at 8:30 a.m.
spin rod, which I’d found along the
and waded south . . . wind at 15 knots
north—the sky a blanket of gray.
bank of the North Platte River and
. . . intermittent sunlight. First fish
A forecast of high winds foiled my
an antique Mitchell 300 reel. A little
spotted was a small lemon shark.
plans to fish with a guide for tarpon
bait bucket and a small cooler of
The further southwest I waded,
(a surprising gift from my landlord).
ice completed my gear. I walked the
the more promising the wide flat
If I counted the calm, sunny days
coral shelf out towards deeper water
appeared. A small shark, which
compatible with fly fishing these last
and waded into the incoming time
startled me, almost swam through
seven weeks, I’d barely need both
at the edge of a deep green channel
my legs. A minuscule island off the
hands. Discouraged, I bumped into
bordered by coral flats. Baiting my
Ohio Bahia Honda channel attracted
my neighbor, Ted Norbits, who runs a
circle hook with a live shrimp, I hurled
me, and I explored its craggy coral
boat accessory company called BITS
my longest cast against the wind.
outcroppings. I saw a shark cruise
Manufacturing, walking the dock. I
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 63
had recently helped him break into
permit. While Alex had been correct
with my heroes—but that was then.
fly fishing. He suggested we get in his
about wading for bones, I’d caught
There would be no hanging out at
26-foot skiff, use the trolling motor,
fish during our two-month stay. Ted
Louie’s Backyard (their Key West
and explore the nearby mangroves
guided me out on the Gulf twice,
haunt), as Harrison, gesticulating
for juvenile tarpon. The tide was
where we caught a variety of fish:
with a cigarette, regaled us with his
high, and the wind was blowing. I had
snappers, grouper, Spanish mackerel,
dazzling intellect and outrageous
tied a 30-pound piece of mono as
and jacks—not to mention sharks.
stories; or Chatham, exuding charm
a shock tippet, to which I added an
Another day, while being guided out
and hilarity, beguiled literary groupies
unweighted Tarpon Toad. I pounded
in the Everglades, I caught redfish on
and took an interest in my work.
the edges, working on my double
the fly, the water too cold for tarpon.
Their passing left a yawning void. For
haul. Every so often, I got off a good
. . . But besides the fishing, which
the past two months, I hadn’t exactly
shot, which softly landed, kissing the
mostly had been underwhelming, I’d
embraced change (there are limits
mangroves. Over a hundred casts
met interesting people, gotten to
to my nature), but I had consciously
later, I’d resigned myself that the fish
practice stand-up paddleboarding,
made it a point to be in the moment,
had moved elsewhere. My unweighted
and learned about asylum seekers
curbing a penchant for comparison
fly was a concern in the deeper
from Cuba, sailing rickety boats
and sentimentality. I actively
water. Glass minnows leaped out of
(known as chugs) while risking their
sought cultural stimulation and had
the water, and I made the throw,
lives to cross the Gulfstream to what
photographed extensively. The Keys
which landed tight to the bank. I saw
they hoped would be a better life.
jumpstarted our sense of adventure.
the grab of the fish and strip-set
. . . We’d sampled the riches of the
Recapturing my youth was never the
the hook, and just like in the films
sea on the table and watched our
goal, but at least I’d dumped some of
and magazines, the young silver king
Brittany almost drown as she swam
the static in my head. The long road
came rattling out of the water, tail
out in single-minded pursuit of a
home began on the morrow.
walking three times, before I could
cormorant. But maybe best of all,
recapture the line onto the reel and
I’d been able to walk her at dawn, in
Stephen Collector is a long-time
subdue the 10-pounder. . . . When we
the soft, moist air, wearing shorts
professional photographer and
tied up at the dock, we saw several
and flip-flops. . . . The sweet rum
writer. His writing has been featured
manatees out on the flat, rolling
warmed my throat as the breeze
in Strung, The Pointing Dog Journal,
around, humping and splashing. They
rocked the palm fronds. An osprey
Anglers Journal, Big Sky Journal, The
were mating. It went on until dusk.
sailed overhead and whistled sharply
Flyfish Journal, Southwest Fly Fishing,
while the fishing boats bobbed gently
and American Angler. His books
March 31
along the pier. “Don’t Worry Baby”
include Law of the Range: Portraits
Our last evening. I sat on the
by the Beach Boys wafted out to the
of Old-Time Brand Inspectors and
balcony overlooking Boot Key, with
balcony from the kitchen, mingling
Journeys to Ancient America. He calls
a rum and soda, reminiscing. Off in
with the aroma of sautéed mangrove
the Rockies home and has fished
the distance, a free-range rooster
snapper. This experience in the
and hunted from Alaska to Mexico.
crowed, followed by the mournful
Keys was in a different spectrum
Partial to Brittanys and brook trout,
cry of a dove. There would be no
than that long-ago initiation, when
he lives in Boulder, Colorado. His
victory with bonefish, much less a
a photo assignment had cast me
website is stephencollector.com.
64 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
NAUTILUS PRO GUIDE DATA SHEET
Paul Tejera Born in Havana, Cuba, raised in Miami. Fly Fishing guide from BIO: Miami to Key West for a lifetime. Living in Islamorada. GUIDED ANGLERS TO: Multiple Championships in all Major Tarpon Tournaments, Bonefish Fly and All-Tackle Tournaments. TARGET SPECIES: TARPON, permit, bonefish. Redfish and snook when the big three aren’t around. BOAT: Maverick 17’ HPX-V FAVORITE KNOT: Albright FAVORITE FLY: PT Persuader FAVORITE RIVER/WATER: Tie - Flats off Key West / Everglades FAVORITE TYPE OF FISHING: Fly fishing for big Tarpon FAVORITE FISH:Tarpon with permit a close second Silver King - light, fast, smooth sealed FAVORITE NAUTILUS REEL-WHY?: drag and looks great! Important when you’re from Miami! These are someones “ good old days ” ! FAVORITE SAYING: Final day of winning The Gold Cup Tarpon Tournament BEST DAY FISHING: BIGGEST FISH EVER LOST: Don’t remember losing one that big! WHO WOULD YOU LIKE TO GUIDE ONE DAY?: Kelly Slater DREAM DESTINATION: I’ve been everywhere I’ve wanted …The Florida Keys WHERE CAN WE GET YOUR AUTOGRAPH?: At the Lorelei Bar in Islamorada WHEN NOT FISHING?: Real estate, tennis, surfing WHAT DO YOU LIKE BEST ABOUT NAUTILUS REELS?:They’re committed to excellence! Nothing better! AND ONE TIME A CLIENT: Fired me and my only regret was I didn’t fire him first! NAME:
EXPERIENCE NAUTILUS® Nautilus ® Silver King CCF-X2
NAUTILUSREELS.COM TAIL FLY305.625.3437 FISHING MAGAZINE 65
The Murder Cucumbers of Blekinge Story by Ilias Karanzas Photos by Arek Kubale
My wife and I have spent the early hours of the morning heading north up to Oslo to pick up friends who have flown in from Poland. Now that the car is packed with people and gear, it’s time to drive south toward the brackish flats of the Blekinge area to fly fish for pike. My friends Arek, Wojtek, and Aga have never fished for pike in conditions like these, although my wife and I have often visited our friends at Sandhamn Marine for the type of fly fishing that you can only get there.
66 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Arriving at Sandhamn Marine on
temperatures for the coming days,
water, and massive amounts of fish.
Monday afternoon, we were greeted
we started building our strategy.
If you visit in late February and have
by Ulf Johansson and his son Mattis,
Most people think that early February
days that are partly sunny and about
with news that the fishing had been
pike fishing is something that is not
6 degrees Celsius, you will have some
great. The guys threw our gear into
done, that pike in a prespawn mood
great fishing experiences. That’s
our cabins, and we immediately
are sluggish and will not grab a fly.
exactly what we had coming.
started out into the bay to begin
This is far from the truth, though,
fishing. But after casting throughout
especially in the Blekinge area.
The flies recommended for this area
the entire area without a single
The pelagic pike from the Baltic
tend to have natural brown and
nibble, our moods fell, and we called
Sea arrive in late October, moving
green tones, but we came to the
it a night.
onto the shallows of the Blekinge
conclusion that we needed something
archipelago to fatten up before the
more aggressive in color since colder
Sitting together in the evening
spawn. That’s what makes the fishing
conditions occasionally call for a
and discussing the weather and
here so fun: big flats, 2 to 3 feet of
fly that can trigger a strike rather
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 67
than a feeding response. A couple
pattern tied with a yellow butt,
of beers into the night, we started
chartreuse middle, and blue head, a
looking into what materials we had
color combo that looks quite pleasing
with us, and we ended up creating a
but still screams fly of contrasts. I
pattern that was named the MCD, or
tied up 10 of them, and we all went
the Murder Cucumber Destroyer, a
to sleep.
name that came up in the midst of
68 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
laughing at the nicknames we have
Waking up early Tuesday morning at
for pike here in Sweden. The Murder
8 a.m. for breakfast, the energy in
Cucumber Destroyer is a streamer
the group was high, and we were all
hoping for a day of great fishing. I
island, Wojtek took his first pike, a
hazardous. Both Molly and I ripped
wanted my friends to hook into some
small 55-centimeter fish spotted by
our waders and ended up watching
Blekinge pikes and my wife, Molly, to
Molly. I ended up showing him how to
the spectacle unfold from shore. Ulf,
catch her first pike on the fly. The
grab a pike by the gills, and Wojtek
Mattis, and Wojtek moved to the
great thing about fishing this area
earned his first battle scars.
other side of the bay, and then things
at this time of year is that you don’t
really got crazy. Wojtek caught three
need to fish early in the morning. The
Twenty minutes later, camp owner
fish on his first four casts, and it
fish really become active at about 11
Ulf and his son Mattis came down
really did not matter where people
a.m., with the best fishing going on
and started pulling up fish. Within an
were casting in that area. Fish were
between 2 and 4 p.m.
hour we had caught about 20 pike
striking, but only on the MCD and
between us, with a couple of good
Ulf’s Papegoja pattern, which is also
We drove out from our cabins at
double- and triple-headers. That’s
very colorful and striking. The day
about 10:30 a.m., heading about 5
the great thing about Blekinge—the
ended about an hour later with a
kilometers north on the peninsula
average size of the fish is not that
tally of about 70 fish, which was an
to a bay that always holds good
big (about 60-85 centimeters), but
okay day. If we had conditions that
numbers of fish. Wojtek, Molly, and
they are fat, and the sheer amount
were better, we would have probably
I and went down into the water and
of fish is staggering.
caught in excess of a hundred fish
started fishing the south side of a
that day. We all headed back for
small island. After moving about
The bottom in Bleking is covered
dinner, but Wojteck and I decided
100 meters to the north side of the
with rocks, so wading can be a bit
to fish the last hour of daylight. It
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 69
was a good decision, as we ended up catching another seven fish (with two double-headers). We all fell asleep with big smiles on our faces that night. Waking up the next morning to the sound of rain on the roof, we ate and drove out to hit a new area. Cold wind and rainy weather really destroyed the fishing. Wojtek, who can catch fish in a bathtub indoors, caught the
read a book while we continued.
have a net with you because dragging a fish 300 meters through ice cold
first fish of the day. The rest of the day was sadly fishless, and we ended
From the other side of the bay, we
water is a good way to lose your
up calling it an early evening to
heard Wojtek screaming. He hooked
fingers. Number two: No matter how
escape the pounding weather.
into a nice fish and landed it. But
cold, miserable, wet, and tired we are
I was on the other side of the bay
while fishing, fly anglers are crazy
The last day was just as cold as the
with Arek, our great photographer.
enough to plan the next day while
day before, but we all waded out into
We wanted a picture of this fish,
complaining about the one we are
the area we had fished the first day
so Wojtek began wading the 300
experiencing. Now that is true love.
and decided to try again. My wife,
meters over the bay, holding the pike
Molly, was the first to hook into a
under water. The water was close to
Ilias Karanzas is first and foremost
fish, her first pike (and fish) on a fly
freezing, and you could see the strain
a fly fisherman, but he’s also
rod. After a fight lasting a couple of
in his face as he lost the feeling
a photographer, writer, and
seconds, the fish jumped off, but that
in his fingers. I took the fish from
professional fly tier. He was born and
was enough. Shaking with adrenaline,
him when he arrived on the other
raised on the west coast of Sweden.
she had a big smile on her face
side and let him warm his fingers
He grew up chasing sea-run brown
and said, “I’m wet and cold and my
for a bit. This moment was the
trout in the salt water and pike in
waders are leaking. But now I know
culmination of our little fishing trip
the fresh water. When not writing
that I can hook fish!” She left the
and made me draw two conclusions
and chasing fish on the fly, he runs
water with a big smile on her face
about the fishing we do. Number one:
his small hobby company, Apex Flies.
and hid under a blanket in the car to
When fishing in cold water, always
70 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 71
ON THE PLATE
Seafood Paella Text and recipe by Jennifer Matsu Photos by Rob Schumske
M
ay was a busy but rewarding month of fishing and travel, including trips to Key West, Islamorada, and Mexico. In addition to making some great tarpon memories in the Keys, one of the highlights was fishing El Palometero, a permit tournament on Ascension Bay, Mexico. Tail Fly Fishing Magazine was one of the tournament sponsors, and several of us from the magazine stayed at the Punta Allen Fishing Club. Although the permit didn’t cooperate as much as I would’ve liked, we made lots of other memories—and found the inspiration for this issue’s “On the Plate.” Punta Allen Fishing Club’s proprietors are seasoned permit anglers and personable hosts, which more than made up for the permit refusals. In addition to my colleagues from the magazine, we were joined by Alberto Coppini, the acclaimed Italian artist who created the renowned permit sculpture that stands sentinel over Punta Allen’s waterfront and town park. We also had the privilege of having Chico Fernandez as a housemate for the week. He spent the week targeting snook, his preferred species, and we spent the evenings listening to his fishing stories, many of which had us laughing so hard that it almost hurt. We talked about cars, jazz, and Cuban food—all of which are enduring passions of Chico’s. Chico reminisced about his family making paella with head-on prawns. I knew immediately that I wanted to bring out my beloved copper paella pan once I was back home in Houston. So after a trip to Islamorada a couple of weeks later—I leadered my first big tarpon with Captain Bou Bosso despite a tropical disturbance cutting six days of fishing down to two—I pulled out the paella pan and created this dish that was inspired by Chico, all while reflecting on the memories made during a busy but rewarding spate of travel and fishing.
72 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 73
Directions
Clean the squid by pinching just below the head and then pulling the head away from the body. Squeeze the body down the entirety to remove any entrails that remain. Rinse the body and the head. Slice the head off from the tentacles, leaving the tentacles intact as a bunch. If the beak remains within the tentacles, remove it. Remove the wings from the body and slice the body into 1/4-inch
Seafood Paella Ingredients
1 pound head-on prawns ½ pound mussels, cleaned 1 pound whole squid ¼ cup olive oil 8 garlic cloves, minced (reserve about 2 minced cloves for mussels) 1 ½ cup white onion, chopped 2 vine-ripened tomatoes, chopped 1 tsp paprika 1 pinch of saffron, slightly crushed 2 cups Arborio rice 1 ½ cups Chardonnay or other dry white wine (½ cup reserved for mussels) 3 cups fish stock ¼ cup parsley, chopped for garnish 1 lemon, sliced 1 tsp red pepper flakes Salt, to taste Pepper, to taste
74 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
slices. Set aside. Rinse prawns and set aside. Warm 1 cup white wine, fish stock, and saffron in a small saucepan. Heat olive oil in a large paella pan. Sauté onions until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in about 2/3 of the minced garlic, reserving the remaining garlic for the mussels. Stir in the diced tomatoes. Add paprika and salt to taste. Cook tomatoes until they reduce and break down, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the squid to the pan and toss gently in the tomato mixture. Add the rice to the pan and stir to coat in the tomato mixture. Add the simmering fish stock to the paella pan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Season again with salt. Do not stir the rice again. You want to develop the socarrat, which is the crispy, caramelized base layer of the rice. Cook for 15 minutes, uncovered. Begin cooking mussels (see below). Meanwhile, nestle the prawns on top of the rice mixture and cook for 5 minutes, turns prawns over, and continue to cook for another 5 minutes until both sides are pink. Remove the pan from the heat and let rest 5-10 minutes. Prepare the mussels by adding a few tablespoons of olive oil to a stock pot and then sautéing the remaining minced garlic for 30 seconds. Add crushed red pepper flakes and remaining 1/2 cup of white wine. Add mussels and cover. Cook for 2 minutes, shake the pan, and continue to cook for 5 more minutes. Remove from heat, add chopped parsley, and stir gently to coat. Remove mussels and arrange atop of paella and garnish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges for serving.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 75
Bayou Vista Ranch Water
By TFFM Staff
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It’s no secret that we’re big fans of agave-based distillates here at the Tail Fly Fishing Magazine spirits desk, and if we’re not taking them neat, there may not be a better way to drink them than in the simple Ranch Water cocktail. A ubiquitous cocktail in Texas for many years, the Ranch Water has been all the rage far beyond the Lone Star State’s borders of late. In its simplest form, a Ranch Water is tequila, carbonated water, and lime juice. Purists may declare adamantly that is should be made only with Topo Chico, a carbonated mineral water out of Monterrey, Mexico, that’s sourced from an inactive volcano. The less dogmatic will allow the addition of other flavorings, including simple syrup or orange liqueur, which yields a cocktail that’s basically a less-limey version of a margarita. The origins of the Ranch Water are murkier than the Pecos River after a rainstorm, but most accounts point to West Texas. We’re partial to the legend that a Fort Davis rancher concocted the Ranch Water in the 1960s, drinking enough of them that he was compelled to follow the stars from Fort Davis to Marathon, where he was found asleep under a piñon tree. Barkeeps in Austin also have laid claim to the cocktail, although folks in places like Marathon and Marfa scoff at such pronouncements. We’re not going to wade too deep into the dispute, because everything’s bigger in Texas—even esoteric arguments about agave-based cocktails. But suffice it to say that, given the warm, arid climate of West Texas and the area’s proximity to Mexico, it makes sense that this effervescent tequila cocktail was spawned there. Here’s another twist on the Ranch Water from TFFM Food Editor Jennifer Matsu, who hails from Bayou Vista on the southeastern Texas coast, a fine place to sip this cocktail and watch for tailing redfish. Instead of tequila, she uses Del Maguey Chicicapa mezcal (all tequila is technically mezcal, but not vice versa), which is a great single-village mezcal from Oaxaca. She flavors this Ranch Water with a blackberry liqueur, giving it a lovely purple tint and a unique flavor compared to a traditional Ranch Water.
Bayou Vista Ranch Water aguey 1 1/2 oz. Del M d Bla 1/2 oz. Drillau Sparkling wat Lime juic
Chichicapa m
ckberry Crèm
Over ice, add ezcal
e de Mûre
er
e) om half a lim e (squeezed fr
the mezcal, cr
de mûre, and
ème
lime juice. Top
sparkling wat
with
ry er, and stir ve
gently, so that lose its efferv
the drink does
escence. Garn
hee with a lime w
n’t
ish
l.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 77
( (
Seeing RED by Macala Elliott
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Mac Elliott’s Canon opens a window to the world of redfish, documenting these eager feeders and tenacious fighters in some of their most celebrated haunts—from Texas to Florida to South Carolina.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 79
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COOLA POP
SHRIMP By Carl Harris
Garden State angler and fly tier Carl Harris is probably one of the most clever and methodical tiers to come along in recent years. He uses CAD engineering software to design flies made of natural materials and unique foam bodies. The end results are good-looking, durable patterns that also are highly productive. We asked Carl to make us a topwater fly for bonefish last year, and he sent a package of his Coola Pop Shrimp. We used these little gems for everything from bass to bonefish, and they certainly attracted some attention. We liked the pattern so much, in fact, that we asked Carl for more color options and his blessing to share the pattern and tying steps for our fly tying section. The Coola Pop is similar to the Gartside Gurgler, but it actually pops better on top. The redesigned lip, coupled with a more streamlined body, makes this fly irresistible to fish. You can strip it fast or slow, and the lip design keeps the fly in the water. We’ve also found that it’s a bit more durable than the Gurgler (which is still a highly productive fly). It’s not surprising that one of the world’s most powerful engineering tools would produce such a good fly. The foam patterns and steps are below. If you’re not interested in tying them yourself, pick up some at Carl’s online store, cghcustomtackle.com.
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Materials:
Hook: Gamakatsu SL11-3H, Size 4 Thread: Danville .210 Denier Flat Waxed Nylon Foam Parts: 2 mm Craft Foam (craft store or fly shop) Saltwater Saddle Hackle: Tier’s choice Body/Legs: Chocklett’s Finesse Body Chenille Large, 1.25”, or equivalent Eyes: Spawn FlyFish—Easy Shrimp Eyes Body Art: Painter, marker, airbrush, etc. Glue: 10-second Gorilla Glue (blue cap), or equivalent
Directions: Step 1 Base wrap the hook shank, and stop with your bobbin hanging down near the hook point. Step 2 Select and tie in two of your favorite hackle feathers, leaving approximately 3/4 inch extending past the hook bend. Next, add about 4 lengths of flash material. When the flash is fully fastened, trim it to your desired length and return your thread wraps back toward the hook point. Step 3 Grab a pair of shrimp eyes, homemade or store bought. You’ll want to position the eyes near the bend of the hook. Tie them in securely, so they won’t spin around the shank. Step 4 Starting with your thread positioned about ¼-inch behind the eye, fold your foam collar down either side of the shank and pinch in place. The wider blunt end should be completely over the hook eye, and the pointed end should be facing toward the bend (Fig. 4a and 4b). While pinching the material in place, add three or four snug wraps onto the foam,
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4a
Step 4b
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 87
Step 4c
Step 4d
Step 4e
Step 5a
Step 5b
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Step 5c
flaring the foam and forming the pop tail (Fig. 4c). Once satisfied with the location of the pop tail, push the flared portion of the tail backward toward the bend, exposing the eye and thread wraps. Add a dab of glue to the wraps and the foam. Then push the foam back to its original flared position (Fig. 4d and 4e). This will keep the foam from spinning around the shank in later steps. Step 5 Tie in a length of the desired leg material near the hook point and wrap toward the eye, stopping just behind the foam pop tail. My choice of leg material is a flashy chenille, but rabbit strips and dubbing-brush style materials also work well (Fig. 5a and 5b). Once wrapped and bound, trim off the material along the top of the shank, being careful not to snip any of the securing thread wraps (Fig. 5c and 5d).
Step 6 Starting with your thread just behind the foam pop tail, take the remaining peanut shaped foam cutout and wrap it in at its midpoint, against the back of the foam tail (Fig. 6a). Add a dab of glue on top of the hook shank and press the closest foam body section down (Fig. 6b and 6c). Add another dab of glue between the two halves of the foam body and fold the remaining foam section back toward the bend, securing it to the first half (Fig. 6d). Whip finish, and get to popping.
Step 5d
Step 6a
Step 6b
Step 6c
Step 6d
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 89
on top BASS by George Roberts
In general, you’ll catch most of your
generated by a popper or hair-head
The bodies of sliders tend to be
striped bass throughout the year—
attracts fish that you may have
slimmer than those of popping bugs,
and most of your larger fish—using
missed with a more subtle subsurface
and the face is often cut to a V. Sliders
streamers fished subsurface. But
offering. In short, when fishing for
are meant to move across the surface
taking bass on topwater flies is
striped bass, don’t hesitate to ring
quietly, creating a wake that the bass
arguably the most exciting way to
the dinner bell.
still feels. Sliders are particularly good
catch them. Nothing compares to the
in calm water and, unlike poppers,
explosion of water that accompanies
TOPWATER FLY DESIGNS
a surface strike. It’s the saltwater
Surface striper flies fall into two
especially when bass are picking off
equivalent of dry-fly fishing—but
broad categories: popping bugs/
small baitfish on the surface. Despite
with the volume cranked.
sliders and hair-headed streamers.
the slider’s subtlety, bass will hit them
Popping bugs and sliders typically
just as hard as they’ll hit a popping
Visual excitement aside, there are
are made of one of three types of
bug. Under the right circumstances,
other good reasons why you should
material: cork, balsa wood, or most
fishing a slider can be like pulling your
add surface flies—popping bugs,
commonly foam (such as the closed-
fly through a minefield.
sliders, and hair-heads—to your
cell foam from which lobster-pot
bag of tricks. First, nothing gets a
buoys are made). Most striped-bass
striper’s attention like a wounded
poppers range from about 1/2 inch to
baitfish, and there’s no better way
5/8 inch in diameter, and from 1 inch
to transmit distress signals than
to a 1 1/2 inches in length, minus the
they can be deadly after dark—
with a popping bug. While a streamer must pass through the fish’s field of vision to trigger a strike, poppers
When fishing shallow over structure like rocks, seaweed, or grass, there’s a chance you could hang up on something other than a fish, and tail. Poppers much larger than this
you’ll do well to use a fly that has
become difficult to cast.
some buoyancy. Streamers with heads made of spun or flared
The tails of most popping bugs
deer body hair work well in such
can summon fish from a distance. A
are made of either bucktail, saddle
situations. The late Bill Catherwood’s
striped bass’s lateral line is ever alert
hackles, or a combination of hackles
Giant Killer series of flies are the
to low-frequency waves such as those
and marabou. Saddle hackles allow
prototypical hair-heads, dressed in
generated by baitfish in trouble;
for a longer tail, but the commotion
a colorful melange of saddle hackle,
it gives the fish a sensory “radar”
produced by a popping bug creates
marabou, and clipped deer body hair
that extends out to around 50 feet.
the illusion of a prey item much larger
that striped bass find irresistible.
Therefore, the surface commotion
than the popper’s actual size.
A full-size Giant Killer runs 7 to 9
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inches long, and the construction technique doesn’t lend itself to a fly half that size. So if you’re looking to throw the sardine rather than the full kipper, you’ll do well to go with a more basic pattern. One of my favorite hair-heads is Lou Tabory’s Snake Fly. It sports a wing of ostrich herl flanked with marabou that has a lot of inherent action in the water. It’s a deadly effective pattern that’s relatively easy to tie and lends itself to a size-2 to 1/0 hook.
THE OUTFIT For striped bass, consider the size of the flies you’ll be casting before you consider the size of the fish you might encounter. Although I feel an 8-weight outfit is adequate to handle any striper I’m likely to hook, I often fish a 10-weight rod, simply because it makes casting the largest poppers and hair-heads much easier. I’ve read about anglers fishing popping bugs with intermediate lines, but I feel a full floating line gives a bug its best action. If you find casting popping bugs a challenge with a standard weight-forward taper (that is, a head
92 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
in the vicinity of 40 feet), one of the
better with a streamer. Exceptions
reasons I don’t understand, poppers
shorter, more compact tapers being
to this occur in the spring and fall,
just don’t seem to produce after
produced by such manufacturers as
when you’re likely to encounter
dark. For proper night fishing I’ll tie
Airflo or Royal Wulff might help you
schools of bass smashing bait tight
on a slider.
better turn it over.
to the shore. During this wild surface feeding, a popper can be deadly, as
Don’t hesitate to drop a popping bug
Striped bass aren’t particularly leader
its prominent silhouette and the
into any likely bass-holding area—
shy, so it’s unnecessary to use a long
commotion it causes enable fish to
the mouth of an inlet or tidal pool
tapered leader with a popping bug.
key in on it immediately.
(particularly on a falling tide), or in
Six feet of level 15- or 20-pound test
the middle of a rip. In rivers, I’ve had
monofilament is ideal. Should you
Poppers are also good for attracting
my best success by casting directly
wish to build a tapered leader, keep
fish from deep water. Over holes and
across the current. In particular, work
it simple. A three-piece leader no
dropoffs, where a streamer might go
the edges and eddies.
longer than 9 feet that tapers to
unnoticed, a noisy bug is sometimes If the setting doesn’t lend itself to a popping bug but you’d still like to play the topwater game, don’t hesitate to tie on a hair-head. One of my most memorable hook-ups came a number of years ago when I was fishing with my old friend, Captain Dave Tracy, who used to guide around Boston and Plymouth. It was Independence Day weekend. We had had some good fishing in the morning, and it was now coming on noon. We had bright sunshine, not a cloud in the sky, and the temperature was approaching 90 degrees. Dave had us drifting along a rocky shore in Plymouth that used to produce well on a coming tide.
15- or 20-pound test is sufficient. If
just the thing to make the fish come
We were within yards of a crowded
there’s a chance you might hook into
up and take a look.
sunbathing beach, with fairly heavy
a bluefish, consider adding 8 or so
boat traffic behind us.
inches of 60-pound mono or wire to
Popping bugs are also good searching
the tippet as a bite guard.
patterns. If you draw a strike with
Dave was used to having to produce
a popper but your next dozen casts
for clients, so he fished a Clouser
go unnoticed, switch to a streamer.
Half-and-Half on a sinking line a large
Popping bugs can be effective
Conversely, I’ll tie on a popper as a
percentage of the time. He wanted
wherever bass are found—in tidal
change-of-pace fly when streamers
me to fish one now. I could tell I was
rivers, off beaches, in bays, near
aren’t producing.
annoying him. I was standing on the
WHERE AND WHEN
jetties—but they’re not for all
bow, throwing a full-size Catherwood
occasions, and I limit their use to
The most productive times to fish
Herring (one I had dressed—not an
specific situations. During the day,
popping bugs, in my experience, are
original) 90 feet toward shore, then
I generally won’t use a popper in
in the early morning and the late
skating it back across the surface
water less than 6 feet deep. Shallow-
afternoon until nightfall. Although
in foot-long strips over a field of
water stripers tend to be spooky, so
stripers will feed readily on the
submerged boulders. (I may have
chances of catching these fish are
surface after the sun has set, for
been trying to impress a girl who was
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 93
with us—I can’t quite remember.)
strips to move the bug three or four
on the surface. I’ve also done well
inches at a time, kicking up water
with it when there was no surface
“You really have confidence in that
every now and then. If that doesn’t
activity, usually in calm waters in
big fly?” Dave asked.
draw any strikes, intersperse the
the evening or at night. With sliders,
retrieve with a few longer strips
and particularly after dark, I’ve
I was about to tell him that I had
to suggest the erratic behavior of
found a continuous retrieve is most
more confidence in the fly than in the
baitfish in trouble. Convey panic by
productive. Retrieve the fly hand-
location, when a bass appeared from
stripping quickly, skittering the bug
over-hand and brace yourself for an
the bottom—if it wasn’t 40 inches, it
across the surface. At times a choppy
explosion—it takes nerve to fish a
was close—and slammed the Herring.
two-handed retrieve is effective. No
slider well.
I was tight to the fish, but instead
matter which retrieve you use, the
of running to deeper water it headed
important thing is to keep the bug
Retrieve hair-heads with single
toward shore, into the rocks. Seven
moving.
strips of 6 to 12 inches, or use a
seconds later, it was all over.
continuous retrieve. In heavy current Whether hitting out of curiosity, or
or rips, I like to let them swing as you
I think Dave and I both learned
attempting to stun prey with a slap
would swing a streamer on a trout
something that day.
of the tail, a striper doesn’t always
river, adding an occasional strip for
take a surface fly into its mouth
interest. Although hair-headed flies
immediately. Raising the rod on such
do absorb water and may eventually
hits will not only result in a miss; it
sink, they’ll ride close enough to the
Some fly anglers believe you must
will pull the fly out of harm’s way.
surface that they’ll remain snag-free,
form fairly open loops to cast
Instead of trying to set with the
and you’ll still see every take.
popping bugs. This applies more to
rod tip, keep the rod tip close to the
casting weighted flies, which take on
water and pointed at your bug during
If catching striped bass on the
their own momentum. (Bringing a
the retrieve. Pay attention—the
surface turns out to be your cup of
weighted fly through a quick change
interest a striper shows in a popper is
tea, you might consider taking the
of direction, as you do when you form
often subtle. If you see a swirl behind
flies, gear, and techniques to other
tight loops, jars the cast.) Popping
your bug, or if the bug’s wake seems
fisheries. Jack crevalle love a popping
bugs are more wind-resistant than
unusually large—get ready. Chances
bug, and Puerto Rican tarpon will
they are heavy, so forming a tight
are a fish is inspecting your fly. If
absolutely crush a Catherwood
loop will carry the bug farther, more
you rouse a fish but draw no strike,
Giant Killer. Lou Tabory’s Snake Fly
efficiently, than will an open loop.
cast back and work the same area
is my favorite fly for false albacore,
CAST, RETRIEVE, AND HOOKSET
again; a striper that’s shown interest
particularly around Harkers Island.
When I began pursuing striped bass
seldom passes up a second chance. If
Watching a 20-pound tuna launch
with a fly rod, my only previous
the fish strikes, keep your rod down
itself out of the water to clobber your
experience with popping bugs had
and continue to strip line. That way,
fly may just be enough to get you to
been fishing them for largemouth
if the fish doesn’t take, the bug will
put your sinking lines away for good.
bass. In fresh water, a popper can
still be in position for the fish to take
suggest anything from a large insect
another swipe. I’ve seen bass slap at
TFFM acquisitions editor George
to a small bird or rodent. In the
a bug as many as four times before
Roberts is the author of Master the
ocean, however, a popper imitates
they finally took it. Only when you
Cast: Fly Casting in Seven Lessons
baitfish, period. The pop-and-wait
feel the weight of the fish should
(McGraw-Hil) and A Fly Fisher’s
retrieve so effective in fresh water is
you strike. One sharp strip is often
Guide to Saltwater Naturals and
useless in the salt. To get a striped
enough to set the hook.
Their Imitation (McGraw-Hill). For
bass to smash a popping bug, you’ve got to keep the popper moving. Start slowly at first, using short
94 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
more information on fly casting and A Floating Sand Eel slider has
fly angling, visit George’s website:
produced well for me when bass
masterthecast.com.
have been slashing at naturals
September 23-30, 2022 ladiespermitpachanga www.ladiespermitpachanga.com TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 95
TAIL
CHASING THE
WAVING
96 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
An Evolution in Permit Fishing by Jonathan Olch
The latest generation of fly rods are
Stripping flies that imitate
lighter, more powerful, and deliver
swimming crabs are being
Chasing the waving tail, the iconic
a fly more precisely. With at least
employed more often, resulting
symbol of the permit, has become
several brands of high-end rods, an
in improved hook-up rates. Even
the Holy Grail for many anglers.
average caster can reach at least 10
so, after this year’s March Merkin
Over the past decade, fly fishing
more feet in distance with proper
tournament, John O’Hearn told
for permit has become increasingly
timing, and without feeling the need
me that he perceived lower Keys
popular. With this, the tidal flats
to overpower the rod.
permit are beginning to see too many of these flies. More
of the Florida Keys, Belize, Mexico, and elsewhere are experiencing
The latest fly lines also are
greater angling pressure. Post-
dramatically better than a decade
pandemic, some lodges are fully
ago. To name a few, Monic’s all-clear,
Beyond Belize and Ascension
booked two years in advance. This
Henley floating fly line has a smooth
Bay, wading has become a more
zeal for permit has carried over
progressive taper that spooks fewer
frequent strategy for successful
into the warm-weather months—
fish and can land a fly softly in
permit anglers. A quieter
traditionally a quiet time reserved
windless to moderate conditions. The
approach and lower profile to
for trout fishing in northern climes.
line has little to no memory in a wide
actively tailing permit pays
innovation will not be far behind.
range of temperatures. Rio’s latest
dividends. Perceptive guides and
If I’ve learned one thing about
Stealth Pro flats line with the five-
anglers increasingly step down
permit behavior, it’s that they feel
foot clear sink tip places more weight
off the platforms on ultra-calm,
most comfortable and relaxed
in the front taper and can really
sunny days (or when low sun
when there are consistent weather
punch out a cast into the wind with
angles prevail), when irrational
conditions and a stable barometer.
accuracy. Scientific Anglers produces
permit flee in fright from 100 feet
Minus the occasional hurricane, the
excellent clear lines with a 30-foot
away.
summer and fall months provide
clear sink-tip, for those times when it
better angling opportunities for
is essential to keep the fly anchored
From an environmental
permit.
to the bottom in heavy current. Each
standpoint, many situations are
fly line has a place in contemporary
changing quickly—mostly for the
permit fishing.
worse.
they’ve altered their daily feeding
Suggestive fly patterns are becoming
Permit stocks are dwindling
habits in congested areas by
further refined. Ultraviolet and other
where rampant development has
spending more time in channels and
new materials continue to up the
reduced mangrove and critical
troughs and less time exposed on
game. Dave Skok’s Strong Arm Crab
juvenile habitat. Coral reefs, where
the flats. Yet, more permit are being
design probably rates as the fly of
permit dwell, are being degraded
caught than ever. The advances in
the decade. Primarily tied in a Merkin
through coral bleaching, the result
fly rods, fly lines, and flies have been
style, the trailing claw can also be
of warming seas. Even sunscreen
dramatic. Fueled by the constant
integrated in a design where the
applied by swimmers can have
flow of online information, anglers
body material is more “flowing,” a fly
far-reaching effects on coral
are better prepared to capitalize on
concept that sometimes succeeds
formations 40 miles away. Gill
the distinct differences in permit
in bridging the gap between a crab
netting persists in much of the
habitat, feeding behavior, and
and shrimp—the claw doubling as a
Caribbean, despite being illegal in
angling approaches. This was not
shrimp tail.
Belize and other countries.
Yes, permit are getting wiser to angling pressure. In some cases,
the case ten years ago.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 97
In the Keys, shark populations
Regrettably, it has been integrated in
have increased. Shark predation—
other developments since.
particularly on the wrecks—is a huge problem with hooked permit. One
On a positive note, Bonefish & Tarpon
fish in four is lost to sharks. A recent
Trust, through Project Permit,
proliferation of turtles in Ascension
conducted an intensive and highly
Bay has led to them gobbling up
successful acoustic tagging and
significant quantities of the turtle
monitoring program. In identifying
grass that permit depend upon.
the major permit spawning area in
Now, we learn that our South Florida
the Florida Keys, Western Dry Rocks,
flats fish are being exposed to toxic
BTT scientists learned that its permit
materials and are hooked on drugs
spawn during the full moon periods
that make their way through sewer
over four peak months. Previously, it
and septic systems onto the flats.
was speculatively assumed by guides
Maybe people will stop eating so
and anglers that permit spawned
many permit? If not, we can at least
over one to two months, the peak
hope the sickle tails are ingesting THC
being May. BTT’s data persuaded the
and getting the munchies.
Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission to close all fishing around Western
Belize, where I have spent more
Dry Rocks from April through July
than three years of my life chasing
to protect permit. BTT has also
permit, is rapidly becoming the Keys.
launched a cooperative bonefish
The latest project is a proposed Four
program with Belize and Mexico.
Seasons development on the Placencia
Hopefully, permit will be next. After
peninsula featuring over-the-water
all, we now know that “our fish are
cabanas, which will ensure a further
your fish, and vice versa.”
loss of habitat and more people. Looking forward, what does the next Leonardo DiCaprio didn’t wind up
decade—and beyond—hold in store for
doing this at his Blackadore Cay
intrepid permit anglers?
development. But the concept was approved by Belizean politicians.
98 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Increasingly, we will seek new
horizons where there is less pressure on the permit and fewer people chasing them. In fact, to feed their inner wanderlust, fly throwers are beginning to embrace the global permit family. In my book A Passion For Permit (Wild River Press 2017), in addition to T. falcatus (the Atlantic permit), I identified eight similar-looking species within the same Trachinotus genus that grow to comparable sizes, feed primarily on crustaceans, and can be sight fished in shallow water in certain conditions. Technically, these eight “cousin species” are classified as pompanos. Without boring you with the nearly identical comparative numbers of dorsal spines and anal rays, taxonomically there are virtually no detectable anatomical differences between any of these species without resorting to an autopsy, where the swelling of the bones in some of these species, called hyperostosis, can conclusively identify the species. The best known of what I now call the Great Eight, the Indo-Pacific permit, is classified as a pompano— so get over it! The magnificently colored T. blochii fins in the coastal waters of 70 countries, providing
decades of exploration and relative
species, T. teraia and T. goreensis.
The conundrum is that, for africanus
solitude for anglers. Another permit
Despite a huge effort in the lagoons
to feed on the mussels, it requires
found in Australia (and Taiwan), T.
and estuaries of Loango, we were
the sweet-spot tidal height range of
anak, is both prolific and a worthy
not successful. We also had the
1.5 to 1.9 meters, found only during
challenge. In Oman, one can chase
opportunity to pioneer the vast and
the flood tide periods of a given
T. blochii, T. africanus, and even
uncharted flats of Saudi Arabia, with
month. At such times, the africanus
have a slight chance of hooking T.
Brandon King (Arabian Fly in Oman)
throw caution to the wind and feed
mookalee (although it is primarily an
where T. blochii thrives. What an
voraciously, tails wagging and flailing
Asian species found in 15 countries).
adventure! Isn’t that what permit
in the air as they crunch sharp mussel
Ray Montoya pioneered this fishery,
fishing should be about?
shells. It is nirvana for the permit
with hundreds of miles of coastline
angler.
and numerous sandy beaches where
There isn’t enough space in this
wading is possible.
article to spill the beans on each of
The incoming waves seem benign,
the Great Eight, so let me introduce
until they break next to the shore
The Great Eight species I have caught,
you to the indomitable permit cousin
with a crashing boom and force
blochii, anak, and africanus, are
that is T. africanus (found in at least
that sends white plumes of spray
sensational gamefish. Don’t assume
12 countries), during one of my treks
airborne in the manner of geysers.
for one second that T. falcatus is
to Oman.
The timing of an africanus must
always the smartest, hardest to catch, or last word in permit fishing. Lots of anglers can attest to how
CRAZY FISH
be perfectly balanced between incoming and outgoing waves to avoid
First off, without conjecture, these
being pancaked onto the cliffs. You
fickle, if not impossible, the Indos of
fish are crazy. Out of their minds,
occasionally see one dazed on the
Poivre can be.
with little regard for their health
surface, trying to recover from the
and safety while they’re feeding.
pounding.
Mike Ward (the recent winner of
Africanus seek their forage on the
the Del Brown Permit Tournament)
razor-sharp rocks, blackened by
Africanus are tough hombres,
and I have been traveling far and
dense mussel beds. Invariably, these
amazingly strong and well-
wide on an exploratory quest to add
delectable mussels are affixed to
conditioned. Stubbed fins, assorted
more Trachinotus species to our
layered boulders and coral shelves
scrapes, abraded gill plates, and
quivers. Recently, we ventured to
often tucked within the catacombs
sore pink lips are byproducts of
Gabon in West Africa to fish with
of the daunting cliffs that adorn
their lifestyle. From the angler’s
Arno Matthee (The Guide’s Company),
the shoreline of the Arabian Sea in
perspective, chasing africanus is a
seeking out two other Trachinotus
southern Oman.
cake with more layers than you have
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 99
ever eaten, representing a challenge
Terminal tackle requirements
where you can no longer pull line off
that frequently can be assessed at
are precise. A 10-weight fly rod is
the reel without an extreme effort.
Level 10. Here’s the playing field:
appropriate, fitted with a clear-tip
Don’t worry, the africanus can. Your
intermediate fly line, with a sinking
fly lands and sinks. With the rod tip
You’re in the back of a bouncing
tip length range of 5 to 30 feet,
in the water pointed at the fly, you
skiff, trying to keep your fly line
depending on the conditions. When
“crawl” out any slack. This is not a
under control. All eyes are looking for
I’m fishing, I seem to bring with me
retrieve—africanus will not eat a
tails. More so than with an Atlantic
a non-forecasted oceanic swell that
moving fly. Extend your arms forward
permit, the fly must land on—or just
can reach an additional meter in
to feed line when there is current.
beyond—the fish to get its attention
height. The weighted fly must reach
Just try to keep the fly in the same
in a very short time span. There may
the bottom quickly. A fly line with a
spot for as long as possible with a
be multiple africanus tailing in a tight
sinking section will help to keep it
tight line connection, while you feel
space. It’s a wasted cast, a washout,
there.
the running line for taps or bumps.
to deliver the fly while there’s wave
Strip-strike if you feel the take, tip
action. Wait for the brief flattening,
While you can land the fly on the
down—no trout sets. While you’re
when the frantic tails appear, to
head of an africanus, they are spooky
meditating for taps, you may be
deliver the fly. Now, you are sight
at the sight of an opaque fly line or
startled by a thumping strike instead.
fishing on the flats in clear water for
a light-refracting leader that crosses
tailing fish. At that moment, however,
their paths. Smart anglers will eschew
Now it’s time to go to war. Another
the seascape often mutates. As the
tapered leaders and go with 9 feet of
layer of the cake. Raise your rod tip
water drains, the fish have migrated
straight 30-pound, hard fluorocarbon.
high and pull with your line hand as
to riverine shelves and tight pockets.
One nick on the coral or mussel beds
hard as you can. Muscle this africanus
Your fly must land in these narrow
and it’s game over. Did I mention
as hard as you can. Try to steer its
slots, at the mercy of fickle currents
africanus are strong fish? A Bimini
head away from obstructions. Don’t
and quirky hydrology. While you may
loop attached to the fly line is a
let the fish dive. One nick on the
be casting to a stationary fish, the
better option than a perfection knot.
leader and you are now fishing with
position of your fly is always a moving target.
12-pound test instead of 30. It’s time to hook an africanus. Tighten your reel drag to the point
100 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
The guide will attempt to back the
skiff out of impending waves, lending
Bruises to my knees, but I was able
an assist to you as the line comes
to hold on.
tight on the reel. This is the moment of truth. At the slightest wavering
At last, the time to land your coveted
of tension, the africanus will take
prize is at hand. But there can be
control. Amazingly, this incredibly
more surprises. On another occasion,
strong Trachinotus species will begin
as the landing net touched the
to peel line off your winch. With a
water, my well-hooked africanus
head of steam, its next stop is back
went airborne, leaping 6 feet clear of
into the coral, unless you go to war
the net.
and try to thwart any protracted surge. Eventually, the africanus will
Finally within your grasp, the massive
appear near the boat. As soon as it
girth and thickness of the fish
sees shapes and movement on the
exceeds that of a comparable Atlantic
surface, it will descend. And you
permit. Upon release, as you grasp the
won’t be able to stop it. Nonetheless,
africanus’s wrist in front of its tail, it
this is the right time to loosen your
is pulsing with strength and concise
drag—slightly. The africanus is a
wiggles that evoke those of a small
master at diving under the boat
tuna. As the golden-hued beauty
at close range. One time, I literally
contacts the salt water once again,
had to dive over the gunwales, my
there is no fatigue, no concession. You
screeching reel frothing in the water,
have just danced with a beast.
to save my rod from extinction.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 101
102 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Unhappy Hookers When hooks wind up in fishermen instead of fish Story by E. Donnall Thomas Jr. Photos by Don and Lori Thomas
hooks and lures we removed from the
Back in 1980, before its famous king
of summer, our emergency room
salmon run crashed, the Kenai River
looked more like a sporting goods
was Alaska’s most heavily fished
store than a medical facility.
victims and posted them on a board running around the walls. By the end
“What brings you to the emergency room today, ma’am?” I asked sympathetically. “My goddamn husband hooked me!” she bellowed back, pointing
stream. At the time, I was living and
angrily behind her at a terrified
working near its banks in Soldotna,
man cowering against the wall. I’m
the small town at the fishery’s epicenter. When the run was near its summer peak, the river grew crowded with visiting anglers, which is why I almost always fished elsewhere at that time of year. As an internist, my primary hospital duties came in the intensive care unit, but in a small hospital with a limited medical staff, everyone had to take a turn in the emergency room. I had already learned that most visiting tourists arrived with an agenda to fulfill in Alaska, which usually included seeing a bear, watching the northern lights, and catching a salmon. Determination
During my tenure in Alaska, I removed hooks from almost every conceivable part of the human body, with anatomic details best left to the reader’s imagination. (Yes, even there.)
ashamed to admit that I already felt more sympathy for him than for the patient. “I gather the hook is still in you,” I replied. “Where exactly is it?” “In my boob!” Oh boy, I thought, as our capable nursing staff reassured the woman, led her to an exam table, and began to remove her shirt and bra, an operation that required snipping some clothes and elicited a wail of protest about her ruined shirt. And there it was, a magnum-sized Spin-n-Glo bobber riding a leader as
to accomplish the last of these goals
thick as an anchor line above the eye
seldom reflected competence as an
of a vicious-looking hook. Cursory
angler, which meant the guide boats
We were already off to a good start
examination revealed both good news
were full of inept clients hurling
one long day in late June when a
and bad. The good news was that it
large, barbed hooks buried in globs
large, loud woman with a thick Bronx
was a single hook and not a treble,
of salmon eggs across the powerful
accent arrived demanding immediate
which can be much more difficult
glacial current with more enthusiasm
attention. Sensing trouble, I began
to extract. The bad news was that
than accuracy—and predictable
the evaluation with my most
it had a barb, which was now firmly
results. The ER staff always saved the
charming bedside manner.
embedded adjacent to the nipple. TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 103
“This is so embarrassing!” she wailed
little picture of what we’re going to
removed hooks from almost every
as I gently poked and prodded.
do.” Intending to involve the guilty
conceivable part of the human
husband in the discussion, I looked
body, with anatomic details best
“I’m a doctor, ma’am. I’ve seen
around for him, but he had already
left to the reader’s imagination.
thousands of breasts.”
retreated—to the waiting room or,
(Yes, even there.) The eye was
as I suspected, the nearest bar. Then
one important exception. A hook
“Bet you’ve never seen one like this!”
I gave the nurses a look that said,
embedded in an eye represents an
She had a point.
“We’re all in this together, team,” and
emergency that should always be
prepared to go to work.
handled by an ophthalmologist.
“Don’t worry,” I reassured her. “We’ll have this out in no time, and it won’t
Should you encounter this situation ***
even hurt.”
in the field, keep the patient as comfortable as possible and seek
Fishhooks are supposed to wind up in
expert consultation. Do not attempt
“You’re going to put me to sleep,
the water or, even better, in a fish’s
to remove the hook.
aren’t you?’
lip, but fate does not always treat us so kindly. These events are usually
An ounce of prevention being worth
little more than a minor distraction,
a pound of cure, let’s turn our
especially for fly rod anglers who use
attention to avoiding these problems
“Maybe not for you! Can’t you at least
small hooks and take time to crimp
in the first place, beginning with the
use a lot of Novocain?”
down barbs. However, salt water
most vulnerable part of the body. I
“That won’t be necessary.”
often demands large hooks, and even
never fish without appropriate eye
“That won’t be necessary either. It
if we are careful about barbs, our
protection and strongly encourage
will hurt less without it.”
fishing companions may not be, a
companions to do the same (to the
point (no pun intended) I’ll illustrate
point of being obnoxious, according
“Can’t you send me to a specialist or
later. Every angler should understand
to some friends). For those who don’t
something?”
how to extract an embedded fishhook
wear corrective lenses routinely,
or, better yet, prevent the problem
protection usually takes the form
before it happens.
of polarized glasses, which improve
“Ma’am, we’re in Soldotna, Alaska. I’m as special as it gets around here. Now try to relax and I’ll draw you a
104 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
the ability to spot fish anyway. Most During my tenure in Alaska, I
of today’s high-quality sunglasses
allow clear vision even in low light
so many anglers (especially those
will make it easier to visualize. Think
situations, so clouds are no excuse
fishing with conventional tackle)
of the process in three steps:
for not wearing them. Now that my
believe in them. Barbless hooks are
aging eyes have trouble with light
more expensive to manufacture and
tippet, small flies, and knots, I also
to buy. Fortunately, the problem
appreciate the small near vision
is easy to solve with a good pair of
create an open loop.
correcting lens incorporated in many
needle-nose pliers. I try to crimp
models, which save me the trouble of
down all my hooks before they leave
2. Press down on the hook’s eye.
fumbling around with reading glasses
the tying vise, to avoid neglecting
when I’m trying to fish.
this task and having to fumble
1. Pass a length of stout tippet or
line through the bend in the hook to
3. Give the tag ends of the loop a
quick snap, with the force directed parallel to the skin surface.
around with it on the water. The next important preventive
Done properly, this process will
measure should be obvious: crimp
Now to the heart of the matter:
disengage the barb and allow the
down those barbs! Fly rod anglers are
proper technique for removing a
hook to pop free with little pain.
usually good about this anyway, out
barbed hook if these preventive
Since you don’t want the loop to
of concern for the welfare of released
measures fail. For years, conventional
break when you tug on it, I like to
fish. Barbless hooks produce much
wisdom advised pushing the point
use line of 15-pound test or stronger.
less tissue damage and are far easier
forward through the skin, clipping
Depending on the location of the
to extract than those with barbs,
off the barbed section, and then
hook, this can often be accomplished
from both fish and anglers. Barbs
withdrawing the hook the way it
without help, but it’s easier if it’s
have been around forever, largely
came in. Unfortunately, as with
done by an assistant. There is a
because of the incorrect assumption
lots of conventional “wisdom,” this
natural tendency to tug gently on the
that they will result in fewer lost
method isn’t wise at all since it
leader, but that may be unsuccessful,
fish. In fact, the increased diameter
is painful and causes more tissue
prolonging the process and leading to
of the hook point produced by barbs
damage than a readily available
more discomfort. If someone else is
decreases the chance of a firm hook-
alternative.
performing the maneuver, encourage
up.
them to act counterintuitively and Although it’s simple, this technique
give the leader a sharp, hard tug as if
Unfortunately, most commercial
is difficult to describe verbally, and I
they were strip-setting the hook on
hooks come with barbs, because
hope the accompanying photographs
a fish.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 105
and continuing to roll. (Yes, it hurt like hell.) I yelled at Lori to dispatch the fish with the priest. She did so promptly, but the fish and my finger were still in the net. Some quick but delicate knife work soon had my hand free, but the 3/0 hook and its barb remained deep in my finger. Since we were fishing with heavy line, I had no trouble locating a spool of stout tippet. As I issued instructions, I could tell that Lori was uncomfortable with the job I outlined even though she is an experienced registered nurse. Just as I feared, her first effort resulted in a loss of nerve and a gentle tug that accomplished nothing except more pain in my finger. “Strip set!” I bellowed, and when she did so on her next try, the hook flew out easily. With nothing more to be done at that point, I took the obvious course of action, picked up my rod, and was soon fast to another nice silver. *** The body part containing the hook
with conventional tackle. When one
What about the unhappy lady in the
should remain still during extraction.
of them brought up a particularly
emergency room that day? Although
If the hook is imbedded in an ear or
vigorous fish, I netted it, dropped
I thought I might have to sedate her
an extremity, immobilizing it with a
it on the deck, and made a dumb
to get the job done, I distracted her
firm grip may be useful to prevent
mistake. Eager to get my fly back
with a long series of questions about
flinching. Distracting the subject’s
in the water while we were still into
her day on the water. (She proudly
attention may be useful if they
fish, I decided to remove the hook
reported landing a Dolly Varden.)
are nervous or agitated—and who
with my fingers while the silver was
With her thus engaged, I slid a loop of
wouldn’t be?
still in the net. Using our readily
suture around the hook and popped it
available hook-out would have
out easily.
Here’s how the process plays out in
prevented what followed.
real life. One summer day near our
With the hook free at last, I grabbed
Alaska home, Lori and I were offshore
As soon as I touched the hook, the
a large Kelly clamp and showed her
in our skiff with two friends. She and
fish thrashed, tangling the hook
how to crimp the barb down.
I were catching nice silver salmon
in the net, and driving the point
near the surface on streamers
deep into my forefinger, leaving me
with barbs crimped down, while
attached to both the net and the
our companions mooched herring
fish, which was still very much alive
106 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 107
DECADE OF CONSERVATION by TFFM Staff
witnessed an inspiring array of
We’re honored to have played a
conservation success stories as well
small role in keeping you informed
Being the voice of saltwater fly
as some disappointing setbacks.
about important conservation
fishing means many things. It
We’ve seen readers’ fervor sparked
issues for the past decade, and we
requires an examination of our past,
by concern for the future and have
hope you’ll continue to count on
the stories about the pioneers and
watched them heed calls to action,
Tail Fly Fishing Magazine to provide
predecessors who charted the path
lending their individual voices
important news and information
we now follow. It also entails an
to a conservation chorus that
about protecting and conserving
investigation of the present—the
policymakers can’t ignore.
the species and habitats we all hold
current state of saltwater fly fishing
dear.
and news of the latest techniques,
There’s always more work to be
destinations, and gear developments.
done, more causes to support, more
But perhaps most important, it
charitable donations to give. That’s
summary of notable conservation
demands that we look to the future,
the essence of natural resources
stories of the last ten years,
ensuring the marine resources that
conservation work and policy; it’s
realizing this list is by no means
form the foundation of our salty
ongoing and infinite, as we not
exhaustive. And if you know of an
passions remain healthy and vibrant
only repair damages from the past,
important conservation story that
for generations to come.
but also face new threats, both
needs to be told, please let us know
manmade and natural, and gird
about it.
Over the past decade of publishing
ourselves to meet challenges yet
Tail Fly Fishing Magazine, we’ve
unforeseen.
108 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
In that spirit, we offer a brief
Conservation Commission a sound scientific foundation for its February 2021 decision to impose a four-month, April-July fishing closure at Western Dry Rocks to protect spawning permit and other species when they’re most vulnerable. BTT tracked the spawning migrations of more than 150 permit in the lower Keys for five years and found that 71 percent of them spawned at Western Dry Rocks. BTT and collaborators also conducted two studies showing
EVERGLADES RESTORATION AND SOUTH FLORIDA WATER QUALITY Congress passed the Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan in 2000, more than a decade before we published our first issue, but the plan long suffered from a lack of funding and political support. But thanks to groups like our friends at Captains for Clean Water, other conservation organizations, businesses, and concerned anglers and citizens, the tide has been turning in recent years. There’s new energy and political will to fund infrastructure and change ill-advised past plans that will send more fresh water south to the Everglades and Florida Bay, reducing harmful discharges from Lake Okeechobee into the Caloosahatchee and St. Lucie rivers, which have fouled both east and west coasts with toxic algae blooms, dying sea grass, and fish kills. Anglers and other recreational stakeholders had a seat at the table as the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers developed a new Lake Okeechobee System Operations Manual, a much
more nuanced and balanced plan that’s predicted to have significant positive impacts on estuaries and other marine resources. The momentum to repair past transgressions against Mother Nature in the Sunshine State was apparent earlier this year, when Captains for Clean Water spearheaded a media campaign to beat back a bad piece of water legislation in the Florida Statehouse. A bipartisan group of state senators introduced a bill that would’ve given Big Sugar an advantage in access to water flowing from the Big O. After receiving a petition with more than 40,000 signatures, more than 1,200 phone calls, and a veto threat from Gov. Ron DeSantis, senators added an amendment that removed most of the provisions that would’ve led to negative environmental impacts such as more red tides and fish kills.
PROTECTING PERMIT SPAWNING SITES IN THE FLORIDA KEYS Bonefish & Tarpon Trust led the charge to collect data to provide the Florida Fish and Wildlife
that more than a third of permit hooked at Western Dry Rocks were eaten by sharks prior to being landed. Last March, BTT committed another $600,000 to fund research at Western Dry Rocks and three other important spawning areas in the lower Florida Keys to help FWC monitor the effectiveness of spawning-season fishing closures.
ATLANTIC STRIPED BASS STOCKS Striped bass stocks along the United States’ East Coast fell to unprecedented low levels in the 1970s, leading to corrective measures in the 1980s and 1990s that led to a striper recovery
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 109
110 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
BONEFISH REPRODUCTION RESEARCH PROJECT Bonefish have attracted fly anglers for many years, but until very recently the science to help understand and manage the species was woefully inadequate. But that changed over the past six years through the collaboration of Bonefish
story that became a blueprint
the Deepwater Horizon oil spill.
for other marine species along
But restoration and conversation
the Atlantic Coast. But the stock
success was born of that last
assessment released in 2019 by the
tragedy. In July 2012, the RESTORE
Atlantic States Marine Fisheries
Act became law, creating the Gulf
Commission showed that the fish
Coast Restoration Trust Fund
that’s emblematic of an entire
in the Treasury Department,
coastal region is once again in
with 80 percent of the civil and
trouble—the assessment revealed
administrative penalties paid
the striped bass is overfished, and
under the Clean Water Act by
populations are well below target
responsible parties in connection
& Tarpon Trust, the National
levels. The finding triggered several
with the Deepwater Horizon oil spill
Fish and Wildlife Foundation,
conservation measures, including
going toward ecosystem restoration,
and many other partners. The
reduction of commercial harvest,
economic recovery, and tourism
Bonefish Reproduction Research
mandates for circle hooks when
promotion in the Gulf Coast region.
Project started in March 2016 and
using bait, and slot and possession
Together with funds from criminal
concluded with the release of its
limits. An even bigger issue, many
penalties associated with the spill
findings last February. The six-year
contend, is reining in the menhaden
(administered by the National
project focused on closing gaps in
harvest, which would provide more
Fish and Wildlife Foundation) and
knowledge on bonefish reproduction
food for stripers and other fish
penalties under the Oil Pollution
and life history. The goal was to
species.
Act of 1990, more than $16 billion
help reverse the decline of the
was available to mitigate ecological
economically important bonefish
and economic losses on the Gulf
fishery in the Florida Keys, and to
GULF COAST RESTORATION
Coast. That has given rise to some
provide information to contribute to
The Gulf of Mexico coastline has
impressive and important restoration
fisheries and habitat management
been beset by degradation for
projects, including manmade
strategies to protect spawning
decades. Mankind’s manipulation
barrier islands and water-diversion
sites and populations in Florida
of the natural environment started
structures on the Mississippi River to
and around the Bahamas and the
the deleterious process, and it
help rebuild the river’s delta and slow
Caribbean. The project has made
has been exacerbated by both
subsidence. The estuary around the
a quantum leap in advancing the
natural and manmade disasters,
Mississippi’s mouth is recognized as
understanding of bonefish biology,
including a devastating run of
one of the most fecund in the world,
especially in the realm of adult
events in the early 2000s that
a nursery for redfish, shrimp, crabs,
reproduction and juvenile biology.
included powerful hurricanes and
oysters, and countless other species.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 111
Dorado on the Bank Fishing the Alto Paraná, an almost salty river by Carlos Cortez
frequently elevates the game to the
preferred manner. Bonefish, tarpon,
highest challenge level. Success with
snook, triggerfish, milkfish, bumphead
For more than a decade, only one fish
the permit fuels my efforts, because
parrotfish, giant trevally. Each has its
has captured and sustained a special
chasing tails requires the constant
special characteristics and demands
place in my mind, and that is the wily
improvement of my skill set. The
different skills. But none of those fine
and elusive permit. On the flats, no
pleasure I feel is immeasurable.
fish has awakened the emotions that the permit generates in me. That is
other gamefish presents the angler with such a constantly evolving list
I have fished many species of great
the reason for my addiction. I did not
of variables to overcome. The quarry
sporting value by sight fishing, my
choose the permit; it chose me.
112 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
But a personal problem arose in 2019,
gorgeous predators on shallow sand
in back, push pole in hand. We glided
along with the restrictions that the
flats. This is a type of fishing that my
silently over long flats. Concentrating
pandemic later imposed. I was exiled
friends had already told me about, but
intensely, we scanned the vast river,
from those magical places for some
the permit would not let me listen.
looking for a flash, nervous water, a
time, although I still visited them perpetually in my mind.
vibrant orange tail bisected by a bold I imagined the trip as a social and
black line, or simply the golden yellow
recreational fishing trip, a reunion
splash of color that defines this
In January 2020, I accepted some
with friends, replete with interesting
gamefish.
friends’ invitation to fish for golden
talks and affection, but lacking strong
dorado in the Paraná River at
emotions in fishing. Nothing proved
To my amazement, this search
Corrientes, Argentina. The hook
further from the truth.
contained similar challenges and
was the opportunity to chase these
difficulties that I find on the Suddenly, I found myself on the bow
saltwater flats. The impressively
of an actual flats skiff, with a guide
clear water, with suspended material, and the sandy bottom are the ideal
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 113
and in the right way.
the situations that arose, how they originated, how I tried to solve
For those who relish the fight,
them, and what I could have done
the golden dorado is a formidable
differently. This post-mortem is a
adversary. It is very powerful,
personal quest for perfection that
exhibiting stamina and supreme
allows me to feel as though I will be
acrobatic skills. The size of these river
more prepared next time—exactly the
gladiators ranges between
process I am compelled to undergo
10 and 30-plus pounds; the average
after every permit trip.
size of the dorados that we’ve encountered is about 15 pounds.
The mental processes that take place before, during, and after fishing for
Prior to my immersion in this eye-
golden dorado on the sand flats evoke
opening angling arena, I imagined
the full range of emotions in me. The
each shot would require that I only
level of concentration needed to get
deliver the fly within the fish’s field
results will take its toll on any angler.
of view. To my surprise, I surmised if
In my path as a fisherman, I believe
the fly does not land on the often-
I have found another unexpected
aggressive dorado’s head, followed
gift of nature, one that has greatly
by stripping the fly as soon as it
increased my fishing time, while
touches the water, the shot will not
providing maximum enjoyment, at a
elicit a strike. Most likely, the golden
stage of my life in which quality time
dorado is either scared or indifferent.
is the most precious asset.
Many times, however, not even the shots that we consider perfect will
I am fortunate to have been
environment for the golden dorado to
provoke a reaction. It’s amazing
befriended by some individuals
be transformed into a golden ghost.
how the behavior of a dorado on
who have dedicated much time
the flats has so many similarities to
to developing this type of sight
The skills I needed are the same ones
those perplexing behavioral vagaries
fishing on the freshwater flats.
demanded by the permit: a very
exhibited by the permit.
Juandi, Robin, Agustín, and Rami are
quick reaction to make a cast, great
excellent fishermen, great fly tiers,
accuracy, line control, moving the fly
In the days following my time on
and excellent guides. They have
properly, and setting the hook in time
the water, I’ve continued to analyze
advanced the fishing paradigm of
114 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Alto Paraná to a level of skill that’s
the river. He feels that there is no
sight fishing for dorado on sand banks
difficult to describe. The way each of
other activity that is more enjoyable
was Peto Dalle Nogare, an area guide
them approaches this sight fishing
and challenging than fly fishing.
who’s known for his innovation. When
sport is no less than an art form, even
For his part, Robin’s passion is
they learned of Peto’s attempts,
extending to dry fly fishing for two
centered around the service of other
this group of friends, with very little
other piscine omnivores, the pacú and
fishermen. Clearly, Robin is one of
information, began to walk their own
pirá pitá.
the most prestigious guides in the
path. With a lot of will and effort,
Corrientes area. When Robin is not
they unraveled the secrets of this new
Beyond the talks we had during our
guiding, he takes advantage of his
approach to golden dorado fishing. In
fishing days, I met with Juandi and
insatiable desire to fish.
the process, they evolved as guides
Robin to learn a little more about the
and fishermen, acquiring specific
origins of this way of fishing. Both
Juandi and Robin sometimes employ
of them started fishing at a very
electric motors, and at other times
young age, progressing through the
utilize a controlled drift. Sometimes
Over time, as impressive catches
various equipment and techniques
conditions unavoidably dictate the
of large golden dorados started to
such as bait fishing, trolling, and
need for blind casting at shoreline
occur, these angler-guides focused
casting with lures, ultimately
structures or large submerged rocks.
their knowledge on the search for
discovering fly fishing through
But when conditions allow, they
consistency. Each individual dedicated
enormous accumulated knowledge
gravitate to the most stimulating
as much time as possible to testing
and experience.
way—hunting the golden dorado on
and analyzing the best methods of
the flats-like sandbars.
tackling the diverse stretches of the
Today, Juandi is continually looking for ways to spend more time on
skills for both roles.
lengthy Paraná, a gorgeous river Both recognize that the forerunner of
with its headwaters in Brazil that
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 115
continues its bountiful flow through Paraguay and onto the Argentine sand flats. When I asked Juandi and Robin about the keys to success on the sandbars, they emphasized the transition from searching with electric motors to using the push pole, allowing them to access more places, more quietly. Equally, learning the habits and reading the attitude of the sábalos, which are the basis of the diet of the dorados lurking on the banks. The behavior of the sábalos is a palpable barometer of the proximity or level of activity of the golden dorado at that moment. Other important factors include delivering the fly as quickly, accurately, and stealthily as possible, as well as recognizing the characteristics of the river structure of the most profitable and productive banks. Both individuals feel that concentration and patience at both ends of the boat pay dividends. When fishing various flies and using different presentations, it’s imperative to analyze the reaction of golden dorado. Adjusting these factors can be the difference between success and failure. Like permit, there sometimes are very few shots in a day—other times there are many. Juandi and Robin revel in the fact that they are in a stage of continuous learning. They keep growing by looking past pre-existing assumptions and remaining open to change so they can incorporate new knowledge through observation and analysis. Juandi and Robin also give great value to sharing fishing days with other passionate anglers, who provide new points of view acquired from different experiences.
116 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
What are the necessary conditions?
bodies composed of natural feathers
And what can an angler expect from
to accentuate movement and heads
a day of golden dorado fishing on
constructed with synthetic fiber
the sand banks? The answers are
brushes to make the flies sink as soon
similar to what we find in saltwater-
as they touch the water.
flats fly fishing. We need visibility, along with the masking cover of
Somehow, the time that we’ve been
some wind; patience, accompanied
devoting to this type of fishing has
by focus on seeing the fish; and the
led us to understand that the optimal
mental preparation to make quick
way to do it is by using the same
and accurate shots. Since the chances
equipment and techniques used in
each day are limited, doing the right
saltwater flats, both for guiding and
thing in each encounter is essential.
fishing, which allows me to draw a
Once again, in lockstep with permit
parallel with permit fishing and make
fishing, the encounters usually
a comparison.
generate an overdose of adrenaline, while keeping anglers walking on the
Under typical conditions, I feel that
edge of frustration.
the golden dorado demands the same level of attention as the permit when
As for equipment, Juandi and Robin
it comes to searching for them. I find
recommend 8- or 9-weight fast-
the golden dorado more difficult in
action rods, using floating lines
the process of executing the shot,
specifically for warm waters and flies
while I feel that the process after the
of different sizes and colors, with
presentation is much simpler, when
we try to entice the dorado to take
a few seconds to prepare for the shot.
trying to put the fly on the head of
the fly.
Sometimes we can spot the golden
the dorado and have enough control
dorado with enough time to form a
of the line to move it immediately
Remember that we are in a river,
strategy, but many other times it
upon your presentation. These
where the current is often much
will enter the sand bank very close to
conditions require a succession of
stronger than on a saltwater flat. This
us and from any direction. In these
decisions and actions in less time and
characteristic takes away the guide’s
scenarios, the fish will quickly bolt
with less comfort for execution than
margin of mobility and position
before the guide calls an audible.
what’s required in permit fishing.
the angle of the boat is difficult to
Perhaps surprisingly, on average
All this greater difficulty is
do correctly on a timely basis. These
the golden dorado moves much
compensated by the simplicity of the
attempts often scare away the fish.
faster than the permit, and the
subsequent process. Once we present
adjustment, as braking or changing
changes of speed and direction are
the fly and initially move it with a
On a saltwater flat, due to the current
more frequent. Not surprisingly, the
long strip, the game is defined. The
and the line chosen by the guide,
ubiquitous wind is usually present
golden dorado attacks it or not. It is
we are more likely to foresee the
in both types of fishing. In permit
very unusual to make a movement
direction in which we will find most
fishing, the guide has some possibility
that generates a reaction afterwards,
of the fish. When we drift in the
of positioning the skiff to favorably
and there is almost never a second
river, the golden dorados can, and do,
tweak the casting angle for the
chance.
appear from any direction; there is no
angler. In dorado fishing, there are no
pattern to anticipate their presence
such possibilities.
or entry onto the sandbar. Conversely,
In permit fishing, meanwhile, when we get the fish to see our fly, the
although a permit can materialize out
So the norm in dorado sight fishing is
most important and difficult process
of nowhere, most of the time we can
to be hair-trigger prepared to make
begins. Most of the time, everything
see it with some advance anticipation,
very fast shots, in wide ranges of
we do next will define its reaction.
which allows the guide to decide on
distance, in any direction, without
That cat-and-mouse game can last
an approach strategy—and allows us
adjusting the position of the boat,
several seconds and requires us to
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 117
continue stimulating the fish until it
Armed with little knowledge, rod in
fisherman. Bill became my mentor
hopefully takes the fly.
hand, and with the wind as my only
and was able to transmit to me the
company, I began to take my first
true essence of fly fishing for permit.
Setting the hook is also different. The
steps, which were more like stumbles.
Since then, my angling life has
golden dorado has a bony and hard
Over time, I was able to develop the
been full of new experiences, visits
mouth. When it takes the fly, we must
necessary skills to both fool and land
to unexpected places, generating
generate great initial tension. On the
salmonids.
incredible relationships with guides
other hand, the soft mouth of the
and other fishermen who share my
permit requires soft and progressive
After two decades of fishing with
passion. These supportive and equally
tension.
very little company, I concluded the
possessed individuals enrich me day
time had arrived to seek interaction,
by day, with the shared feeling of
Hopefully, this comparison will aid
and share days on the water with
living a happily obsessed life.
permit anglers who are curious
fishermen who had the same
about golden dorado flats fishing as
convictions and compatible vision. Not
Each of these stages are fundamental
they prepare for the situations and
surprisingly, I undertook a new cycle
milestones in my life. They have
difficulties they might encounter.
of great learning. My first experiences
defined me, not only as a fisherman,
on saltwater flats would follow,
but also as a person. These days,
I look back and remember that day in
starting in July 2008. With persistent
I do not hesitate to add this new
March 1977 when, by chance, I found
effort and my previous knowledge,
discovery of golden dorado to that
a man, Eliseo Fernandez, intently
I adapted to the nuances and
list, an evolution which has conspired
practicing fly casting in a park in
intricacies of bonefish and tarpon.
to compete with my feelings for the
Buenos Aires. While observing him, I
permit. Both are now a daily presence
was riveted, almost in a trance. Eliseo
It was in Key West in February 2009,
in my thought processes, and a
selflessly offered to teach me to cast.
when I had the fortune to meet
coveted part of my fishing time.
In the span of two hours, he taught
Captain Bill Houze, who exposed me
me the fundamentals of fly fishing.
to the tailing fish with the black tail
Indeed, the waters of the Paraná
that made me feel like a beginner
River, at times, feel salty.
I remember my first days of solitude
again. That trip was the origin of the
in the rivers of South Patagonia.
most important cycle in my life as a
118 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
PHOTOGRAPHY: MATT HARRIS
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Flying High forTarpon
by Joe Doggett
“I know how to tie 50 knots, and
sharp jerk, and the tippet snapped.
these are no good,” stated Costa
With a shrug, he tossed the unworthy
Rican guide Guinder Edwin Velasquez-
ruin of monofilament into the olive-
I was impressed. This unseemly
Clark. The subject of his scorn was
brown flow of the Rio Colorado.
villager in his faded T-shirt and torn
quick jerk and the sections held.
the tarpon leader that I had manfully
shorts wrapped connections that
labored over during the noon siesta
looked as good as the ones illustrated
break at Archie Fields’ old Rio
in the sweat-stained and oft-cursed
Colorado Lodge.
bible of knots back in the cabin.
During the spring of 1982, my tarpon
“I have learned from the best. Chico
game had more hackles than the
Fernandez, Lefty Kreh, Stu Apte—
nearest streamer. The serious fly
they have all come here to fly fish for
fishing market was just starting to
tarpon.”
gain momentum around my home in Houston.
Many saltwater masters rate the tarpon as the king thrill. And, during
“How can you say that, Guinder,” I
those early years, I would never
protested, eying a lumpy spider hitch
have a better chance than amid the
and giving the 16-pound-class tippet
tarpon-rich tides of Costa Rica’s rain
a tentative twiggle. Unfortunately,
forest rivers.
tarpon do not twiggle. Guinder cranked the crusty outboard “No good, not snug, poor knot
“If you want to catch tarpon on a
and we ran several hundred yards
strength.” Guinder was young and
fly, nothing less than 90 percent will
from the dock. The motor abruptly
cocky, and it was understood up
do.” Guinder grabbed several spools
stopped and the skiff drifted.
front than the opinions of anybody
of mono and, using hands, knees,
with four names and a hyphen
toes, and teeth, whipped out a leader
would dominate the confines of a
system consisting of a perfection
16-foot aluminum skiff. He grabbed
loop, a Bimini twist, and an Albright
“We’re here; start fishing,” Guinder
the leader in both hands and gave a
special. He tested it with the same
announced.
120 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Great, I thought, engine trouble.
“Here? The dock’s right back there!” “Well, señor, if you prefer we can run an hour to a spot I know upriver, but this hole is filled with big fish.” The river opened into the boil of the Caribbean and, back then, the main channel served as a funnel to draw schools of milling tarpon. As Guinder slipped the anchor, several fish surfaced in lazy rolls, intimidating brutes with thick backs stamped with heavy scales and poured from liquid aluminum. I was a long way from Houston’s Hermann Park duck pond. Scattered skiffs dotted the wide river. The nearest was a Casa Mar boat close enough to hail. It held a pair
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 121
and feathers. “No good.” “Say what?” “We use a special fly here. I tie them—like this.” Guinder fished from a pouch a bushy lashing with fluff and fullness rivaling that of a well-fed white-winged dove. It sported a thick collar, flashy Mylar strips, and a pair of bright bead-chain eyes. It lacked only a beak and feet for an audition in a Disney cartoon. “Get away from me with that thing! What’s wrong with these?” My Orvis masterpieces looked wilted and withered alongside. “Better do what he says, Houston,” called the California pro on the bow. “This isn’t sight casting on the flats. Those big ‘Whistler’ streamers are the ticket. They push a lot of murky water, easier for fish to sense. That’s all we’ve been using.” “What pattern?” I asked, pro-to-pro. “Red and yellow’s been hot.” of pro-class anglers from California.
Kime, a legitimate Big Name. As we
“Black and red’s the call,” confided his
They carried high-end Fenwick
watched, Kime yelled as a great green
partner.
rods; one was fitted with a golden,
and silver fish twisted into air, hanging
gleaming Seamaster, the other with a
suspended against the jungled canopy
“Pay no attention,” said Guinder, the
golden, gleaming Pate.
before crashing back to the flat water.
voice of reason. “Green and orange is
The shout was followed by a groan as
best, but I can let you have all three
the fish pulled free.
for only $3.50 each. American.”
gleaming Fin-Nor. The reel was
I held my fly box open for inspection,
Armed with three new killer flies,
spooled with a sinking line backed
displaying the pride of the new
I waited for Guinder to affix the
by 200 yards of “9 thread” 27-pound
Houston Orvis. Prominent was a
green-and-orange whistler to the
Dacron. Rookie status aside, I felt
lineup of streamlined flies of proven
80-pound shock leader (nobody said
“armed and equipped as the law
cockroach patterns. From Key West
“bite tippet” back then). He handed
directs.”
to Islamorada to Homosassa, tarpon
the fly over for inspection. It had been
specialists would nod approval. The
secured with a trim Rhodes loop knot,
Guinder noted that the lanky, salty guy
guide’s fingers ran a quick parade and
and the big 4/0 hook gleamed with
fishing solo across the river was Harry
review through the assembled hair
white-hot sharpness.
I glanced smugly at my cutting-edge Orvis boron 11-weight and golden,
122 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Guinder held up a small file (nobody
a decent double haul and shot the
wasn’t that dramatic, but the fly
knew about chemically sharpened
line about 75 feet across the river.
stopped against heavy life. I pulled
points back then). “They are never
The short leader turned over and
straight back, a proper strip-strike
sharp enough from the box for
dropped the fly with a light touch.
to set the hook. The weight of the
tarpon. I have triangulated the point
Guinder said nothing but once again
startled fish transmitted like a
the way Chico Fer…”
sat upright on the beer cooler.
charge of electricity through the fly
“Never mind about Chico Fernandez.”
The current caught the sinking line,
I stepped onto the flat bow and
creating a growing weight as the
I hit again, reacting to a gathering
started stripping generous coils of
length bellied to straighten. I pointed
force of uncontrollable power. A
shooting line. I worked a cast into the
the rod tip low and started a slow
6-foot tarpon twisted high, heaving a
air, getting the feel of the big outfit.
retrieve, stripping a foot or so with
fan of spray. The bold gills were wide
The outrageous fly buzzed back and
each pull. The dark line fell in random
against the shaking head, and the
forth like a persistent parakeet, and
coils on the deck.
fish seemed to vibrate like a tuning
line.
the uncertain guide crouched behind the bulk of the outboard.
fork. After 15 or 20 minutes of steady casting, a tarpon struck. The take
Gathering confidence, I let drive with
I felt like a sorcerer’s apprentice waving the master’s wand. I stared
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 123
in shock and awe. Steppenwolf had
across the surface.
called it: “Fire all of your guns at once and explode into space!”
snarl of twisting loops bounced and whipped and fired straight at the rod.
I glanced down to see the coils
The knot slammed into the stripping
tangled underfoot. The terrible-
guide and the rod sprang slack. I
Then the hooked tarpon was running,
looking wad of fly line was in a frenzy
stared at the fouled guide and the
and outgoing line seared an arc
against my clamped fingers. The
diminishing wake of the largest fish of my fly rod career. “Hey, Houston,” laughed the Californian. “What are you doing over there—working on your Junior Woodchuck Basket-Weaving Merit Badge?” Tarpon No. 2 was a mondo-giant house wrecker. Guinder guessed it at over 125, a thick “yellow belly,” grouchy with age and furious at the insignificant fly. The fish came straight up, looking high enough to walk under, and toppled back against a prehistoric welter. Remarkably, the rod still pointed the way and the tarpon was “on the reel” as line hissed smoothly from the spool. The fish blasted for 50 yards then the fly pulled loose. Dejected, I reeled in and discovered that the hook had opened against metalplated jaw pressure. Guinder’s hooks maybe weren’t the best. Tarpon No. 3 tried to choke me. It struck during an unguarded moment—Guinder, another icy Imperial, por favor—and once again a billow of maniacal shooting line flew about the bow. I raised the rod high, trying to take up slack, and the last of the up-rushing coils fouled in the line clippers dangling from my neck. The snagged lanyard sprang tight, and I screeched and sputtered with visions of bold headlines in the Tico Times back in San Jose: “American fishing writer found garroted on
124 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Rio Colorado; embassy demands
At least the tippet was intact. The
arm waved, lifting a longneck. “Hey,
investigation.”
hook point was good, and the long
Houston, I think you’re going to do
rod shot a cast across the afternoon
it!”
The tippet broke, and I was 0 for 3
shimmer. The line swept deep and
and out of killer flies. When Guinder
the fly snagged bottom, forcing a
As if hearing, the shining fish turned
stopped laughing, he offered another
break-off.
on its side, spent. Guinder reached
jazzy, snazzy trio. “Because you are
for the shock leader and glided the
such a good customer, a discount.
“I have more flies and at a special
tarpon close. The big eye rolled as the
Only $10 for all three. American.”
price,” announced the guide, reaching
stick gaff snatched the gaping lower
for the pouch.
jaw. The fish wallowed and bucked,
“The fly-tying business seems to treat you well, Guinder.” No doubt he
pinned to the side of the skiff and “I still have one.”
going nowhere.
mountains and built on a foundation
The final Whistler drove 85 or 90
Guinder looked up and smiled. “A 50
of broken tippets.
feet across the river. If nothing
pounder. Small fish.”
had a palatial estancia high in the
else, the full afternoon of casting Tarpon No. 4 was on for four Roman-
was improving the double haul. The
“That may be, my guide—mi guia,” I
candle jumps before it fell against
line bellied and swung—and pulled
said, “and Chico Fernandez no doubt
tight line and broke free. “Too much
tight against a solid grab. The strip
has caught many larger ones. But I’ll
pressure,” critiqued the guide. “You
stabbed the point and bent the rod.
bet he’s also caught many smaller
must give controlled slack on the
ones.”
jump by bowing to the tarpon. Chico
A tarpon-cascade raged across the
Fer…”
surface and coiled line spun from the
We posed the tarpon for a quick
deck and through loose fingers. The
photo then slipped it back into the
“Guinder, I don’t want to hear about
fish hit the reel and the Fin-Nor took
river. Guinder held the lower jaw and
it.”
the jolt without balking. Fly line shot
worked the chromium fish back and
through the guides, followed by the
forth in the flow until the gills flared
Tarpon No. 5 was never hooked.
trim backing knot as Dacron raced
and the fins bristled. He opened his
I couldn’t get tight to the fish. It
after the run.
hand, and with a confident swirl the
sucked up the fly and ran straight at
tarpon was gone—the conclusion to
the boat. I was watching the pile of
I worked the fish hard, fearful of a
inert line and kept trying to push a
break-off, but knowing that toying
busy handful through the stripping
with a tarpon is a poor tactic. The
I snipped off the victory fly as a
guide. The rod didn’t want it. A
idea is to pressure the fish to whip its
trophy and studied the glowing
hideous sag of slack kept falling to
spirit—and hope that Lady Luck joins
clouds above the shrouded
the deck.
the beach party.
mountains. The calm jungle air felt
No way this is going to end well, I
After six or eight jumps and 20
minutes of good light. Let’s try for
astutely judged.
minutes of give and take, the tarpon
another. What’s the going rate for a
was wavering and plodding. The big
new fly?”
one of the pure angling experiences.
wonderfully cool. “We’ve still got 30
The incoming tarpon jumped
tail broke the murky water and the
alongside, almost hitting the
low 11-weight put side pressure to
Guinder fingered through the pouch
outboard on the way down as Guinder
turn the fish and keep it on top.
and held up a tropical beauty. “For
held the stick gaff like a riot club. The unset fly sailed free.
you now, Señor Pescador—free.” A boat motored slowly past—the California fly masters going in early
“Too much slack,” he said, a master
after a pair of catch-and-releases. An
of understatement.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 125
Deep Gravy Permit guilt, creeping conflict, and fly fishing ecstasy in Belize by Trey Reid
Bracey had several good shots about 75 yards from the boat before the school made a hard right turn toward the rising sun—well above the horizon now but still low in the eastern sky. Their course was bringing them straight toward me and the anchored panga. I pulled my 9-weight from the rod holder and stripped line off the reel as I climbed out of the boat and scurried into casting position. The school was moving right to left about 50 feet in front of me, and it was massive. I laid a Raghead Crab
We idled out of the river channel
in front of the lead fish and slowly
We left the dock at 6:30 a.m., a
into the lagoon on the west side of
stripped it. Nothing. I sent another
relatively late departure by the
town, rounding the southern point
cast into the front-left portion of
standard we had set over the
of Turtle Island before heading
the school and made long, slow
previous four days of fishing around
north on the bay side of Ambergris.
strips. They were on it, turning hard
Ambergris Cay, Belize. By any
Ever vigilant, Marin scanned the
to track the fly straight toward me.
definition, the trip was already an
turquoise waters as we glided
My heart rate accelerated with every
unqualified success—so productive
across the surface. We slowed to an
inch of the gap they closed: 30 feet .
that it’s awkward even now to
idle upon reaching an area where
. . 25 feet . . . keep stripping, man . . .
recount it. I had landed four permit
we’d found permit the previous
20 feet . . . eat it, you bastards!
and recorded two Grand Slams—the
afternoon. But the fish weren’t
most productive saltwater fly fishing
there, so we continued northward
I imagined a watery demise, being
trip of my life—and my friend John
to another flat next to a small
overrun by a school of a hundred
Bracey, with whom I fished most of
island. Marin pointed out a school
feeding permit, flogged to death by
the week, had caught his first two
before the boat came off plane.
black tails, puffy lips sucking on the
permit, the first coming on the same
remnants of my floating corpse on
day as his first tarpon and closing
Nervous water sold out the school,
a Belizean flat—poetic retribution,
out a Grand Slam. Over a breakfast
which materialized fully in copious
perhaps, for the zeal with which I’ve
of San Pedro Jacks and fresh mango,
dark shapes and random silver
pursued their kin. But with just a
we agreed that we couldn’t complain
flashes. Tips of dorsal fins and
few feet of fly line outside the rod
if we didn’t catch a single fish on the
tails punctured the gently rippled
tip, the school slowly peeled to its
last day, a sentiment we shared with
surface less than a hundred yards
right and reversed direction.
our guide as we idled away from the
from the boat. Bracey scrambled
dock.
over the panga’s starboard side
“Let’s go find another school,” Marin
as the anchor found purchase on
said.
“Everything today is gravy,” said
brilliant white sand. Marin eased
Captain Gordy Marin, who had guided
into the water behind him, and they
We barely had time to plane out the
us all week and who was now steering
made a quick but cautious approach
panga before another big school
his boat, Silver Ghost, beneath the
to get ahead of the blithely feeding
appeared a few hundred yards north
Boca del Rio Bridge in San Pedro.
school.
of where we had just been refused.
126 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 127
even now to mine the experience too deeply. Like most permit anglers, I’m familiar with failure. I live in landlocked flyover country, more than 1,000 miles from the nearest permit water. As my evolution as a saltwater fly angler has progressed, I’ve spent a considerable amount of money and time with modest returns in the way of permit. But that changed drastically—and dramatically—during five days in northern Belize. I landed a permit within the first hour of fishing on the first day of the trip, and I was truthfully content not to catch another fish all week. But the fishing only got better. Two days later I watched Bracey catch his first tarpon, a hefty resident fish in the 50-pound range, and then I subdued a similar fish an hour and a half later. A few hours after that, I climbed atop Marin’s poling platform to behold him and Bracey wading toward a school of permit under a leaden sky. Minutes later, my friend was admiring his first permit, which was also the final element of his first Grand Slam. Certain that I’d have to experience that rare thrill as a vicarious witness, I was surprised when Marin told me to grab my fly rod and get my ass in gear to intercept the school again. After two missed eats in quick succession, I was hooked up to my second permit in three days. Thirty minutes later, I was overjoyed to catch a
Ignominy and Incredulity
came close last April in Belize. I still
scrawny bonefish that gave me my
struggle to describe the sensation; a
first Grand Slam.
lingering fear of misunderstanding
I’m not sure it’s possible to feel
and wrong assumptions about my
We were breathing rarefied air, but I
guilty about catching fish, but I
motivations makes me hesitant
wasn’t reticent about sharing tales
128 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
“Yeah, man,” Marin said. “But we got so much gravy, it’s gonna get so deep it’s gonna cover up the turkey.”
of our good fortune with friends
waterfront was fully awake. Bracey
back at El Pescador Lodge. I had
and I both landed bonefish before
never tasted this kind of angling
lunchtime as we awaited our turn
success, and I was inebriated by the
to board the permit carousel on the
mysterious elixir. So this is what
flat where we’d both caught them
success feels like?
the previous day. The word was out among Ambergris guides, and the
The next day, elation almost
school was getting pounded, with
imperceptibly gave way to ignominy
guides lining up their boats to have
and incredulity. We started early
their anglers take turns wading
again, and I was treading water
onto the flat.
to take a picture with another solid tarpon before the San Pedro
Marin had seen enough, so we left to look for less-pressured fish, finding them a few miles away. Bracey hooked up on his first cast to a school of big permit, but the fish slipped the hook 30 seconds into the fight. Marin spotted another school a few minutes later, and we waded toward them under the bright midday sun. They ignored the first presentation, but after my second cast and a few long, slow strips, the line came tight. It was my third permit of the week, a bruiser leaning toward 25 pounds, and it capped a second Grand Slam. Bracey caught the day’s second
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 129
permit just a few minutes later, and
asks for details about our day, I’m
were everywhere, but we hadn’t yet
I added my second of the day and
not gonna lie about it. But maybe
fed one despite several good early
fourth of the trip before we headed
we shouldn’t volunteer anything.”
shots. That was about to change.
Moonwalking up the dock was out
Marin got the boat well ahead
I was ecstatic, but conflicted
of the question. Until it wasn’t. But
of another big school. More
thoughts crept into my head. This
we were the first boat back to the
than a hundred strong, it was
isn’t supposed to be happening. Is
lodge, and only our wives and Marin
pushing northward parallel to an
this what impostor syndrome feels
witnessed my shameless spectacle.
uninhabited cay. We dropped anchor
like?
Just getting it out of my system,
in knee-deep water and all three
you know. And we still had one more
bailed out of the boat to ease into
day of fishing.
position. Bracey hooked up quickly,
back to the lodge.
Bracey, who’s unflappably modest, must’ve felt something, too.
line peeling off his reel as the rest
“You know, maybe it’s getting to
So much gravy
the point that we shouldn’t say
It was the last of five days on the
and slowly reversed course via a
anything about this when we get
water, the last Friday of the month,
wide arcing turn in slightly deeper
back,” he said. “I mean, if somebody
the day before a new moon. Permit
water. Marin and I took off to
130 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
of the fish stayed tightly together
intercept the school, and there was
I reminded him that I was literally
four hours chasing two big schools
no easing into position this time.
twice his age, and that I didn’t
of permit that roamed back and
We rushed southward, sporadically
usually run the 100-meter dash in
forth along the cay, wading into the
sinking into loose silty pockets in
water and mud before casting to a
water for stealth when we could
the sand. I covered the hundred
school of a hundred permit.
and casting from the bow of Marin’s
yards through thigh-deep water
panga when there wasn’t time to
and sucking mud in a time best
“It’s not easy to catch permit, man,”
scramble over the side. Together, we
measured by a sundial, my heart
he said. “You got to work for it
hooked six more permit, bringing
pounding from a combination of
sometimes.”
five to hand. The sixth should’ve
exertion and excitement, but we were in position.
been landed, but it was part of a Fair enough. We quickly went back
triple hook-up that Marin lost in his
to work, getting into another school,
zeal to make it a quadruple.
I cast in front of the school at a
or maybe the same school, a few
perpendicular angle. It wasn’t my
minutes later. Marin got in on the
best presentation, and Marin made
action and doubled with Bracey,
sure I knew that. The captain and I
and I brought the morning’s fourth
had reached a shaky détente by the
permit to hand 15 minutes later.
last day of the trip. He had revealed
My second fish of the morning gave
himself as a demanding young guide
us five before 9 a.m. And it was all
on the first day, brash almost to the
gravy.
point of insolence at times. But he had put us on the fish, and we were
“Yeah, man,” Marin said. “But we
improving as a result of his prodding
got so much gravy, it’s gonna get so
and pressure. He wanted perfection
deep it’s gonna cover up the turkey.”
and expected at least something approaching excellence; mediocrity
Our metaphorical gravy, a fly fishing
was intolerable. “I’m not gonna lie
dream made of glimmering slabs
to you,” he said. “That cast wasn’t
with forked black tails, indeed
good.”
grew deeper. We spent the next
I gulped from the cup of permit glory, taking in the spectacular sight of three fly fishers with bent rods, pulling against fastidious fish and long odds.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 131
I hooked up with a dinner-plate
couldn’t hold back laughter. Or my
fighting his permit, and grabbed
permit from the front of the panga
opinion, yelling, “Don’t die, John!”
another fly rod out of the rod holder.
during the day’s last frenzy, jumping
“What the hell are you doing?” I
over the port side to fight it while
Now a dozen yards left of the boat,
asked. “I can’t help it, man,” he said.
Bracey crawled over the starboard
I kept the smallish permit tight
“I’m greedy.”
gunwale to chase a portion of the
but wasn’t rushing anything—if I’m
school that veered right when it
being honest, to prolong the chance
Our cocky young guide tucked the
split in two. Marin also waded into
of a triple hook-up. Bracey’s effort
fly rod with the fish tethered to
the fray, grabbing one of my rods
was rewarded, and line surged off
it between his thighs and laid out
and sending a cast toward the part
of his reel as the day’s 11th permit
a long cast with the second spare
of the school that lingered with my
bowed the rod. I gulped from the
rod. It was too much gravy. The
fish. He stripped and set the hook
cup of permit glory, taking in the
quadriceps method of fighting
on Silver Ghost’s tenth permit of
spectacular sight of three fly fishers
permit caused tension on the line,
the day. Meanwhile, Bracey covered
with bent rods, pulling against
and Marin’s fish broke off. Bracey
about 150 circuitous yards through
fastidious fish and long odds. I
and I landed our fish, kneeling
soupy sand, still in the game,
was still incredulous, but no longer
down in the water to release the
advancing and retreating, drifting
sheepish. I reckoned that I had paid
fish together as Marin snapped a
and dancing in all directions as the
my dues in money, sweat, time, and
photograph.
permit dictated. He had numerous
disappointment. It’s supposed to
good shots that didn’t yield eats.
be fun, and right then, I couldn’t
I might never pass this way again. I
“Run, John,” Marin coached and
imagine it ever being better.
certainly don’t expect to. And that’s
cheered. “More right, man. More
okay. I’m Southern; I know a thing or
right. Go, John! You can do it, man!
Marin broke my reverie when he
two about gravy—it’s delicious, but
I trust you, John. Run, John!” I
shuffled back to the panga, still
too much of it isn’t good for you.
132 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 133
GT Behavior
& Hangouts 134 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
by Peter McLeod
motivation for being in a particular locale is dictated by water
Catching a giant trevally on a fly
temperature, tide levels, available
rod is the pinnacle of flats fishing—
food sources, and seasons, an
highly challenging and requiring
understanding of the areas they
skill and preparation. In my book,
frequent is vital. There is no quick
GT: A Fly Fisher’s Guide to Giant
and easy fix. It is just a question
Trevally, I cover where to catch
of understanding what motivates
these gangsters of the ocean, their
them, covering the ground, and
behavior, equipment, tips, and
putting in the hours on the flats
techniques from expert guides all
and the other areas they hang
around the world. The summary
out. The more ground you cover
like baby tarpon, they feel safe from
here should get you started until
and the more of their environment
larger predators and in turn can
you can put your hands on a copy of
you can visit, the more chances
hunt other bait inhabiting the same
the book.
you have of getting a shot. When
areas. Once they attain a certain
that shot comes, you need to be
size, perhaps 20 to 40 centimeters,
So where do we find GTs? These
ready—the opportunity comes and
they will begin to group together
predators are some of the most
goes like a match lit in a wind. It
and move out to deeper water to
opportunistic feeders swimming
can be not only physically but also
find structures such as coral reefs,
in the ocean. To catch GTs on fly
mentally challenging to maintain
dropoffs, or channels. These locales
you will first need to enter their
that level of concentration for an
contain strong currents where
environment and then hunt them
extended period of time, often
schools of bait are buffeted, making
in it. There is nothing random about
while just trying to stay upright on
them easy targets for the fast
how GTs move. Their movements
coral or surf.
and powerful trevallies. As a rule
are dictated by their unique
of thumb on the flats, the larger
understanding of their environment
Because these bruisers are so
the group of GTs, the smaller the
and the availability of food. In a
adaptable, their hunting grounds
fish are. The really big fish tend to
similar way to humans, individual
range from offshore rock pinnacles
remain as singles. The exception to
fish have their own characteristics
to coral reef edges, channels, flats,
this is when a high concentration
and preferences.
and estuarine systems. Juveniles
of food draws large concentrations
tend to be more prevalent in
of trevally to an area, including the
estuaries and river systems where,
bigger fish.
Although their overriding
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 135
As soon as the tide allows, even
I have decided to follow the ebb and
and momentum to smash into
very large GTs will venture onto
flow of a tidal cycle.
unsuspecting prey. As the angler is
flats and headlands to hunt, using
pushed farther back from the surf
networks of channels or areas
SURFING
of deeper water. GTs can also be
Right at the start of the pushing
gain access to the flats. It is time
found along reef edges and points
tide, one of the best places to
for the angler to move and stake
where large pounding swells crash
find GTs is in the surf on the reef
out the channels that the GTs use
on the reef and rock, stirring up
edge. The waves provide an ideal
as highways.
food and creating the ideal hunting
habitat for GTs to maraud up and
ground. They will eat pretty much
down while smaller fish struggle
anything that moves or swims and
to maintain position and balance.
CHANNELS AS GT HIGHWAYS
are totally opportunistic. I have
At low tide, the front of the reef is
Channels are the first sections on
seen them charge packs of baitfish
the perfect place to start, looking
the flats to become submerged
and tail on crabs on the flats, and
in all the cuts and holes. GTs sit in
and the last to lose water. All fish
I have even heard of fish along the
these holes and wait like trout in a
will generally swim in the deepest
dropoffs ganging up and taking out
stream for unsuspecting baitfish to
water available to them, and GTs
small sharks. On Goulette Island on
be washed over their heads where
are no exception. If you study a map
Farquhar Atoll, the GTs have even
they are easily intercepted. As the
of the flats, you will clearly see a
figured out the breeding habits of
tide begins to gain momentum,
network of channels that resembles
the thousands of sooty terns that
the GTs become more active in
the veins in a leaf. Always look for
breed there. In the autumn they will
anticipation of their entry onto the
intersection points from deeper
track and eat a whole sooty tern
flats. Fishermen can then move
water to lagoons or flats. Bonefish
(one innovative angler landed a GT
back across the coral bars as the
behave in the same way, but earlier
on a “bird fly” he made out of a full-
surf increases and use the waves as
in the tidal cycle. In lagoon systems
sized black flip-flop; the GT ate it
windows into the world of the GT.
such as Christmas Island, the GTs
whole). For a fly angler, these areas
There is nothing quite like watching
have preferred paths they will use
of flats and coral dropoffs are ideal
a wave lift and seeing three or
to gain access to the back of the
places to hunt them. In an effort to
four GTs surfing down the inside
lagoon and the feeding grounds
bring them into some kind of order,
of the wave, using the extra speed
there. The same goes for large
136 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
line toward the shore, the GTs will
flats with depressions or channels
such shallow water is that you can
or estuaries are particularly good
running through them such as Orvis
spot them from a considerable
on dropping tides as they suck
Flat on Christmas Island, Second
distance if the visibility is good,
small fish off of the flats much
Island on Farquhar, or Little Snake
and they also move water, giving
like tigerfish homing in on bulldog
Island in Sudan. These GT highways
away their positions. Always be on
baitfish on the Zambezi.
provide the perfect access points
the lookout for bow waves, nervous
to the flats, just like a motorway
water moving against the tide, and
On large open flats with a
connecting towns and cities. It
also splashing on the surface as
combination of turtle grass and
can be worth staking out these
they hunt. Keep an eye out for birds,
sand, such as the Cosmoledo Lagoon
highways on an incoming tide and
which will often track them across
or Green Mile on Farquhar, always
spending a little time to see what
the flats, looking for an easy meal
keep an eye out for stingrays. Like
comes along heading onto the flats.
as the GTs stun baitfish.
permit and bonefish, GTs like an
If you have the patience, you will not be disappointed.
easy meal, which means they will Pancake flats, by their very nature,
follow stingrays along the flats as
are an excellent hangout for GTs.
they grub around. Normally going
Pancake flats are small, hard coral
dark and adopting the color of
Whether it be pancake flats, turtle
flats often covered in turtle grass,
their hosts, they can sometimes
grass flats, coral flats, or sand flats,
which have deep water all around
be hard to pick out. So if you see a
once the water reaches critical
them. The pancake flats inside
stingray, it’s always worth a cast
height, the GTs will slip over the
the Christmas Island Lagoon, for
in their direction. These ray-riding
edge and start to prowl like packs
example, have long been an ideal
GTs will jump on any food item
of dogs, or in some cases as lone
bonefish spot, as large fish can
that wanders in their path. Tim
wolves. They tend to be attracted
scoot off of the flat in a hurry if
Babich believes that this is a two-
to depressions (deeper areas within
they become alarmed. By the same
way relationship, and the rays use
the flat), white holes, and any
token, deep water right next to
the GT as an early warning device
structures that they can use as
shallow flats will encourage GTs
against sharks and other predators.
ambush points. The great thing
to add them to their patrol route.
He has seen rays follow a GT after
about having such a large fish in
Pancake flats inside atoll lagoons
it was spooked off, catch up with
THE FLATS
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 137
it, and then begin feeding again. Although baitfish patterns remain effective, they can be refused if the GT is totally dialed into the feeding of the ray in this situation. They are looking for food stirred up off the bottom by the ray. In this instance, a tan Clouser or large crab pattern can be highly effective.
GT SNACK BARS AND BEACHES Once the tide is reaching its full potential, baitfish are beginning to run out of cover. They are looking for a safe haven in shallow water, so look for the highest areas on the flats. High points such as rock piles or sand spits make ideal
a-calling. Normally, your first inkling
smashing into the bait in a feeding
sheltered areas for mullet, milkfish,
will be a noise like a shower when
frenzy. Quiet beach areas where
bones, and other baitfish. Not only
the baitfish try to escape from
the water can be churned up also
are they lovely spots to fish, but
predators as they come tearing in
provide concentrations of baitfish.
also they can be great areas to
from the deeper water. GTs often
When the tide reaches its highest
concentrate on at high tides since
will be joined by predatory species
point, the flats anglers are often
GTs will visit them for snacks. It
such as sharks, other trevallies, and
pushed back onto the beaches.
is worth staking out these spots
barracudas. They hover around on
Walking the beach edges on the
for a while and seeing what comes
the edge of the deeper water before
insides of lagoons at this stage can
138 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
be fruitful, as we are not the only
undercut by erosion, creating the
TFFM travel editor Peter McLeod
thing to be pushed onto the beach.
perfect chance to sneak up on a fish
has worked in fly fishing travel for
Bonefish, shad, and mullet will all
from above.
more than 20 years and founded
seek the safety of the beach, so
fly fishing specialists Aardvark
don’t be surprised if gangsters come
RIPS AND SEAMS
McLeod International in 2005.
hustling down the length of sand
Continuing the logic of finding
He has visited more than 60
after them. I have seen GTs hunting
the prey and therefore finding the
fishing locations in 20 countries.
in packs, literally chasing mullet
quarry, rips or areas of crossing
His fascination with the trevally
up onto the beach in an effort
currents also make ideal hunting
species is bordering on the
to eat them and nearly beaching
grounds. You may find these
obsessive, and he is constantly
themselves in doing so. All that is
on the ocean sides of flats or
scouring the globe for that next
left is blood in the water and a swirl,
on outcroppings near channels,
mind-blowing hotspot to target
as the GTs depart with their meal.
where currents are pushing in two
these gangsters of the flats. His
different directions and meet.
book, GT: A Fly Fisher’s Guide to
These rips make holding stationary
Giant Trevally, extensively covers
extremely difficult for smaller fish
the species.
CORAL ISLANDS AND OVERHANGS At high tide, GTs will forage right up
species, and as a result of the cross-
against islands that were previously
current action, the bottom is often
inaccessible to them. Baitfish will
churned up, making visibility poor.
take shelter in those areas, and
Yet another perfect opportunity for
there is always the opportunity for
the mugger of the flats to pounce
a terrestrial such as a juicy crab or
on unsuspecting prey. Colored
even a bird. By clambering over the
water also makes for good hunting
tops of the coral islands, sometimes
grounds, so any area where there
you will find GTs patrolling along the
is sandy water on a flat that has
undercut coral, or if there is fast
been churned is worth throwing a
current, even taking up stations like
fly into. Be curious, and you will be
salmon in a stream. Cosmoledo in
rewarded.
particular exhibits these areas, and Farquhar to a lesser degree, where the sharp fossilized coral has been
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 139
Salt Marsh Secrets by Joseph Albanese
Marshes act as nurseries for many
them to hatch in droves. It is this
species of gamefish and prey alike.
smorgasbord of bite-sized offerings
Some of the best fishing on the
Everything from Atlantic menhaden
that draws predators out of the
Striper Coast takes place in the
to weakfish begin their life cycles
relative safety of deeper water.
skinny waters of the salt marsh.
among the flora that comprise these
These labyrinths of unassuming
grasslands. It is this vegetation
This habitat can provide some of
meadows and sinuous creeks hide an
that allows these atolls to exist,
the best angling you are likely to
environment of never-ending decay
their roots binding the soil against
encounter in the Northeast, but
and genesis. As the water recedes,
the corrosive action of wind and
there are some stars that need
you can catch the telltale odor of
tide. Invertebrates can be found in
to align for that to happen. As
expired life. But further examination
abundance as well; from the mollusks
the water is shallower, everything
reveals the beginnings of existence
so familiar at local markets and
is magnified. The importance of
springing forth from that odiferous
restaurants to benthic worms that
several factors is exaggerated: the
muck.
provide an all-you-can-eat buffet
tidal stage, position and intensity
for stripers when the moon urges
of the sun, and even the color and
140 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
composition of the bottom. Typically,
I have found the magic number
gamefish floating in along with them.
cordgrass is found in the low-lying
to be 64 degrees. The fishing has
Fortunately, bluefish don’t mind
areas and salt hay in the high marsh,
broken wide open when the water
these warmer temps, and can keep
providing cover for the young-of-the-
temperature hits that number,
rods doubled over when the stripers
year to grow. The exposed grasses
according to my logs. It seems to be
are on a heat-induced hiatus.
offer overhead cover from terns,
just warm enough to stimulate their
gulls, and wading birds. The emergent
metabolism, but not warm enough
Light is also important. In the dog
stalks afford crevices in which to
to make them sluggish. The action
days of summer, the noonday sun
hide from finned predators. But this
seems to be white hot until the
is almost sure to chase predatory
protection is far from perfect, with
temperature hits 70 or so, although
fish to the sanctuary of deep water.
certain conditions conspiring to leave
you can continue to catch fish in
The early season is an entirely
these hapless creatures exposed.
the back when periods of high tide
different animal, though, as water
When this happens, the combination
coincide with dawn and dusk. There
temperatures haven’t reached their
of bait and predators leads to a
are usually a few days a month
seasonal peaks. Referring back to
feeding frenzy of epic proportions.
that can be productive even in the
the magnifying effect of the shallow
When these variables all line up,
warmest months. You want to take
early-season waters, temperature
there is lights-out fishing for hungry
advantage of the tail of the flood tide
can change as much as 10 degrees
migratory striped bass.
in the height of summer; those ocean
in a day, depending on the timing of
currents bring in cooler water with
the colder ocean waters rushing in.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 141
And no matter the month, nighttime
and can be the first hotbed of activity
off without shifting out of gear and
is the right time. Gamefish, and
in the early season. This knowledge
drift into place, as the clunking of
stripers especially, take advantage of
can be used to the angler’s advantage
your boat’s transmission is a proven
the light-gathering potential of their
when prospecting for areas of ideal
way to scare fish. If you have a
larger eyes and feed nocturnally.
temperature. Early in the spring,
trolling motor or push pole, this is
This feeding occurs at all phases of
before the turbidity caused by boat
definitely the time to use it. Likewise,
the moon, but I have had the best
propellers and the algae blooms of
wading anglers will also benefit from
luck on the new and full. The new
summer, visibility and therefore light
a healthy dose of creep. While you
moon always seems to outperform
penetration is good. Noting these
don’t need the same surreptitious
the full, even though both have an
areas is important, as early in the
approach that is required by wary
equal effect on tidal heights. I can
season a few yards can mean all the
trout in chalk streams, you will
only hypothesize that the darkness
difference.
benefit from some sneak, trying not
afforded by the absence of the moon
to crush shells underfoot or dislodge
makes predators more reliant on
In stark contrast to the deeper
clumps of dirt. Just be careful, as the
other senses and they strike more
waters of the Atlantic proper, most
mud seems bottomless in spots.
often as a result.
salt marshes are shallow, averaging 4 to 6 feet on all but the steepest of
Tide stage is of the utmost
Earlier I mentioned the substrate—
tides. As such, stealth is key. You may
importance. Someone once said
that wasn’t for effect. As oyster and
be able to get away with a blaring
there are two good times to go
other mollusk shells decompose, they
radio in 90 feet of water, but that
fishing: when it’s raining and when
turn into a fine, dark sediment that
has no place in the marsh. Even the
it’s not. This is true to a degree; you
combines with the existing bottom.
simple act of dropping something on
can’t catch them on the couch, and
This creates a dark mud that absorbs
deck can be enough to put the fish
you have to make the most of your
light energy more effectively than a
down. Your approach should be as
opportunities. But to put up big
sand bottom, or even a lighter-colored
cautious as possible, coming off plane
numbers in the marsh, you need to
mud bottom. These areas will heat
well in advance of the area you plan
time the tide almost perfectly. I have
up faster than the surrounding earth,
to fish. If possible, turn your motor
found that under most circumstances,
142 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
While most of these fish will be in
sinking intermediate will work. I
the 22- to 32-inch class, there are
used to bother with tapered leaders,
opportunities to tangle with some
but no longer. I run 6 to 10 feet of
truly outsized bruisers in single-
15-pound fluorocarbon. If the fish are
digit depths. You should match your
finicky, I’ll tie my own leader with a
tackle to the size of the fish you’ll
6-foot butt of 15-pound and a 3-foot
likely encounter, with a little extra
tippet of 8 or 10 pounds.
backbone in case you do battle with a heavyweight. While you’re not dealing
As far as flies go, I prefer topwater
with rocks or bridge abutments,
stuff. Nothing is more exciting than
there are plenty of structures for fish
watching a 30-inch fish smash a
to break you off on: old pilings, pieces
hunk of feathers being pulled across
of scuttled vessels, and any number
the surface. The Gartside Gurgler
of manmade objects conspiring to
is a fantastic choice, as it moves
break your line. A 9- or 10-weight will
a ton of water and is very easy to
serve you well, as they can punch
cast. Hard-body poppers are a close
bulky poppers into a headwind and
second, with deer-hair divers also in
the best time to fish the salt
have enough oomph if you do happen
the mix. I don’t often use subsurface
meadows is an hour before the peak
to find yourself connected to a larger
flies, but I will throw a crab pattern
of high, staying until you run out of
specimen. This is an instance where
every now and then. These are
water. The exception to this rule is
you will want a reel with a solid drag.
particularly useful dead-drifted in the
a moon tide, when the water rises
I used a Pflueger Medalist for years,
earliest part of the season, as the
far enough above the grass that the
applying pressure to the spool to stop
naturals are lethargically emerging
stripers are no longer confined by
extended runs, but the abundance
from the mud and other bait types
the channel edges and can fan out
of sealed-drag reels on the market
haven’t arrived yet. Clousers and
on top of usually dry grass in pursuit
negates the need for such practices.
Deceivers are also good choices, but
of baitfish. This is not to say you
As the water is shallow here, a
I only resort to them when I know
won’t pick up a fish here and there,
floating line is best, but a slow-
fish are around but I can’t coax them
you just won’t connect like you will
to the surface. Toss Clousers when
when the high marsh starts to drain,
thin-profile baits such as sand eels
concentrating food sources in the deeper channels as the creeks empty.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 143
and spearing are present, turning to Deceivers when wider species such as menhaden dominate the forage base. As far as retrieves go, I always start gently. If finesse doesn’t produce, I’ll ratchet it up a bit, creating louder pops. Don’t be afraid to cast to the same spot a few times; sometimes you can get an aggravated strike from a fish that may not like your fly. The shoulder seasons of the spring and the fall are ideal for cashing in on some explosive fishing in these exciting expanses of water interspersed with grassy shoals. Most of the pleasure boaters haven’t put their boats in yet, or have already taken them out, so you’ll have some solitude. There may be some additional challenges posed by the shallow depths, but the rewards are made just that much sweeter. Sixty fish tides are well within the realm of possibility with a little bit of planning and forethought. Take care to note the conditions, and make your fishing plans accordingly. You may have to use a sick day; time and tide wait for no man, as the old truism notes. If you can line up all of these variables, you can take part in some of the best fishing you’ll likely experience—or at least some of the most exciting.
144 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 145
a guide’s life by Scott Hamilton
the best chance for success. But
hold fish. There was very little in
since this request was made on the
the way of such material, but we
“Time is a beast, devouring all, insatiable. . . .”
morning of the trip, during a time
continued our search.
was somewhat doubtful, I resigned
Finally, we saw a beautiful log,
That pretty much sums up a
myself to trying my best to pull
several meters long, covered in
captain’s life, but I wouldn’t
off this unlikely feat. After a quick
barnacles and surrounded by
trade my guiding experiences for
glance at his equipment, my client’s
weeds—the very picture of perfect
anything. You never know what’s
10-weight rod and reel combo
dolphin habitat. Quietly approaching
going to happen on any given
looked up to the task. In retrospect,
and scanning the area for
day out on the water; each day
a closer exam would have been wise,
movement, I saw nothing. My heart
truly is unique. Below are a few
and you’ll see why.
sank, because if this beautiful piece
of year when finding a large dolphin
of real estate wasn’t holding fish, it
entertaining nuggets from my decades on the water. Enjoy.
Chum bait was nonexistent that
was unlikely anything else would be.
day, so besides throwing hookless
IF IT CAN GO WRONG. . . .
teasers on a spinning rod, my
I readied the client, explaining that
I had a client who expressed a desire
only option was to cruise around
he needed to be prepared to cast
to catch a dolphin (aka mahi-mahi
searching for floating weeds and
at a moment’s notice as I started
and dorado), preferably a large one,
try to find fish hiding under them.
working the area around the log
on a fly. Normally, when a client
We made our way out several miles
with a teaser plug. Teaser plugs are
makes such a request, I counsel him
offshore and started the search for
great in place of chum bait. The fish
as to what time of year would offer
the debris and weeds that often
immediately comes in hot and ready
146 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
sections apart. The whole mess—
to eat, and it can generate some
dolphin crushed the fly at about
spectacular strikes. But alas, no fish
25 mph, felt the hook, and hit the
appeared after a couple casts. I took
afterburners, leaving straight away
a few steps over to the console to
at what seemed like 50 mph.
For several seconds, in utter silence,
would tell me that there were fish
As the client was desperately trying
visible as the dolphin towed it out
holding down deep. My client asked
to clear the slack, a perfect half-
if he could take a few casts. Not
hitch was formed around the reel,
expecting it to do any good, I told
with no chance of untangling it.
him to have at it and continued to
When the full weight and speed
scan the depth finder.
of the dolphin came to bear, the
look at the depth finder, hoping it
reel broke off from the reel foot, That’s when several things
and still tangled, came up against
happened in quick succession. The
the first stripping guide. In a
client dropped a cast about 50 feet
split second, that stripping guide
out and immediately exclaimed,
was ripped off the rod, and the
“Holy crap!” Out of the corner
reel came up against the second
of my eye, I saw a large shape
stripping guide with the same
streak out from directly under the
result. Now, the reel came up
boat, heading straight for the fly.
against the first snake guide on the
Faster than it can be told, what I
top section of the two-piece rod and
estimated to be at least a 50-pound
the forces at play pulled the two
reel, tangle, and ripped-off stripping guides, went sailing into the ocean. the compilation of gear was plainly of sight, jumping enthusiastically as it went. The client, standing there holding just the butt section of his ruined rod, turned to me and said, “That was GREAT!” Given that I had never experienced any kind of equipment malfunction close to this, I had to investigate the cause. Upon closer examination, the screws that had been holding the reel body to the reel foot were so corroded that I could turn them to powder between my fingers. And
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 147
judging from the rusted stumps
Life commercial with a full-body
where the stripping guides once
vertical launch; it breached not
were, this rod may have never been
100 feet off the side of the boat.
rinsed off after saltwater exposure.
The spray from its splash almost
The client confirmed this, saying he
reached us; it was that close.
thought rinsing was a waste of time. He also confirmed that he had been
“Okay, that is not a spinner shark,
using a straight piece of 50-pound
and we’re not fishing for it.”
leader material, because he “didn’t want to chance losing any fish.”
Gray whales are not common in my area at all. I may see only one each
YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU’LL SEE OUT THERE.
year, so this was a real treat. The massive creature put on quite a
One winter I took two clients out
needed to bring the sharks within
show for us for more than an hour,
for spinner sharks. These clients
casting range. As I had my head
breaching regularly and performing
were experienced saltwater anglers
down, both of these gentlemen
a maneuver I still can’t really explain
but had never fished for spinners.
abruptly exclaimed, “Good god! Did
the purpose of. In 30 feet of water,
After setting off, I gave them
you see that?! What the hell was
this thing would go vertical, stick
the rundown on what to expect.
that?”
its nose in the sand, get its tail
Among other things, I described
about 10 feet in the air, and go back
the free-jumping that the spinners
“What did it look like?” I asked,
and forth, slapping the water with
do on a regular, and at times
without raising my head.
concussive sounds. It would stay in
constant, basis. In the 60- to
this position for a full five minutes
100-pound range, they explode out
“Something huge just came flying
before moving on. I believe it was
of the water, spinning lengthwise.
out of the water right there!”
calling out to its brethren off in the
Sometimes they spin so fast that
distance, but we didn’t see other
it’s hard to focus on them. It’s a
“Well, that’s a spinner shark,” I
whales that day. Eventually, we let
pretty large animal and pretty
replied, slightly chuckling. “That’s
the whale go on its way, and we
spectacular to watch.
what we are here to fish for.” I
returned to the sharks. But the rest
turned my head in the direction
of the day we all had grins on our
Arriving at the area where I knew
they were pointing just in time to
faces from the experience.
there to be sharks, I got busy down
see a gray whale approximately 40
on the deck preparing the chum
feet in length reenact the Pacific
148 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
YOU ARE ALWAYS AT THE MERCY OF THE SEA.
should have been the disappearance of all the large sportfishing boats.
One summer day, the weather was
Suddenly, there was not another
fairly typical—hot, calm, and humid,
boat in sight, and off to the west
with small pop-up showers in the
was a black wall of rain with an
area. These small storms were easily
almost constant rumbling of thunder
visible and moving very slowly. It
emitting from it. We were only a
wasn’t a problem getting out of
couple of miles from the beach and
their way, and there was almost no
short run back to the safety of the
lightning accompanying them. The
harbor, but it was too late. The initial
problem was that these storms hid a
blast of wind preceding the rain
monster that was fast approaching
dropped the air temperature by 20
from the southwest.
degrees. If you ever experience this
This was before smart phones, and
sort of instantaneous temperature
I had no radar on board. My first
change, just know that it’s the
clue that something was amiss
weather gods coming for you.
I resisted asking him to tell my wife that I loved her, because that wouldn’t really help any of us. Especially my wife—or my client.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 149
To the west, the whitecaps and
and the bow pointed into the wind.
and filling the boat, compounding
sea foam generated by the wind
Under any normal situation like this,
the capsizing possibility. My only
looked like a carpet of snow that
standard operating procedure is bow
option was to spin around and ride
was marching toward us. As
into the waves and hold position
it down wind, which was quite a
the storm came off the beach
until the storm passes, because it’s
maneuver given I had only a matter
2 miles away, the black wall of
really pointless to do anything else.
of seconds to turn before the next
rain completely obliterated the
But as the wind approached and
wave was on me.
coastline, and the lightning went
passed the 70 mph mark, SOP went
into overdrive, with multiple bolts
out the window.
visible simultaneously. The rain
I managed to get it done, but it was dicey at best. Keep in mind that
and the wind hit us almost at the
Even being just 2 miles from the
the rain was coming down so hard
same moment, with a force that
beach (a very short distance for
that the other end of the boat was
made capsizing a real possibility,
waves to build to any size), the sea
barely visible, and bolts of lightning
even with a 26-foot boat weighing
went from almost flat to a constant
were coming down on both sides
several tons.
battalion of breaking monsters
simultaneously. And these were the
bearing down on us. The 12-foot
kind of bolts where the flash and the
We had secured everything loose
hillsides were so close together
sound hit you at the same moment.
and donned our raingear, and I
that being head-to quickly became
quickly had the engines started
dangerous, with waves breaking into
150 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
By this time, exactly eight minutes
had passed since first becoming
hear thunder approaching off to the
asking him to tell my wife that I
aware of the impending doom—not
west. It felt like a lifetime.
loved her, because that wouldn’t
much time to do a lot about it.
really help any of us. Especially my In the middle of all this, my phone
wife—or my client.
We stayed in this position for
rang. A captain friend who I had
a while. I’m not sure how long,
seen earlier in the day was on the
We rode out the storm and made
because every second required
other end. “You’re not still out
it safely back to port, but it was
steering adjustments to keep from
there, are you?” he asked.
an experience I would prefer not
going broadside to the maelstrom,
to experience again, although it is
and going broadside would have
“Yes,” I said, “and I’m a bit busy.
worth noting two things: First, I
been instant disaster. Even going
What do you want?”
was never so glad to be operating a
with the waves, large amounts
catamaran, which handled it all in
of water were crashing over the
“You need to get out of there,” he
stride, and second, my client, who
stern into the cockpit. You know by
said. “There’s a tornado in that cell!”
was great at keeping mostly calm,
listening to the thunder how long
I explained to him the situation
offered the opinion that after 16
this will go on. When you hear that
with the waves, lightning, rain, and
years in the US Navy, it was the
the majority of the thunder has
inability to maneuver, and that I
worst storm he had ever been in.
passed, the worst is over. Forty-five
couldn’t really give a crap about
minutes into this storm I could still
the tornado and hung up. I resisted
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 151
to scatter chum, I tried to be the early warning if a larger fish, inappropriate for the rods they were using, showed up. I pretty much
Standing on the gunwale to get better visibility while continuing to scatter chum, I tried to be the early warning if a larger fish, inappropriate for the rods they were using, showed up.
failed miserably in the attempt, because there was suddenly a flash of brilliant purple, and Chris found himself with a fish blistering line off the 5-weight reel. The first run took enough line off the reel that the bare spool was visible beneath the backing. And though every subsequent run was shorter, they weren’t shorter by much. Over the course of almost 30 minutes, the fish made eight runs well into the 150-yard-plus zone, and it never gave up until Chris finally battled it back to the boat to be netted. It turned out to be a skipjack tuna approaching 12 pounds. The fight was epic and a joy to watch.
YOU CAN GO LIGHT, BUT BE CAREFUL.
One day while out on a fun trip
When I first started guiding
with friends, I came across a nice-
ITS NOT ALL ABOUT THE FISH.
sized log with lots of life around
One day, several miles offshore
it. Triggerfish, small jacks called
with clients, I was searching a weed
rudderfish, and bait were just a cloud
line for dolphin. This particular
around this thing. I had a livewell
weed line was very uniform—nice
stuffed with small chum baits, and I
fresh Sargasso weed, bright yellow,
started scattering them around the
stretching off into the distance,
log, looking to fire up any predators
with very little of anything else
in the area. Quickly, surface strikes
mixed in with it. While scanning
and explosions began, signaling
weed lines like this, I look both in
the arrival of small blackfin and
the water next to the boat (because
skipjack tuna. Scanning the breaking
if you’re moving slowly and quietly
fish, most all looked to be on the
enough, dolphin will swim right
small side, only a couple of pounds
up to the boat), and I look ahead
apiece. Try as I might, I could not
along the weed line in the distance
see anything larger, so I grabbed a
(because surface activity is a very
4-weight and a 5-weight and gave
good way of locating not only
them to my buddies Quintin and
dolphin, but many other desirable
Chris.
species as well).
Standing on the gunwale to get
While scanning out in front, I
better visibility while continuing
spotted something that stood out
bluewater fly fishing in the early 1990s, I thought there wasn’t much realistic use for fly rods smaller than 8-weights. In pretty short order, I changed that thinking completely. Now I typically carry rods as small as a 4-weights, and I am in the process of building a 3-weight. While there are days when the big fish I’d like to show clients are absent, it’s rare indeed that smaller fish aren’t available. Small members of the jack family and small tunas and mackerel are great fun on light tackle and have saved many a day for me. Dolphin up to 10 pounds will make a 4- or 5-weight dance and make you forget all about trout.
152 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
like a sore thumb. It was brick red,
It probably washed out to sea
inlet. I stopped to clean the dolphin
with wide black vertical stripes.
during a storm in the tropics
we had caught, spraying Iggy down
And then it started moving. Out of
somewhere. A healthy iguana this
with freshwater while I did. This
this patch of weeds materialized
size would normally weigh upwards
made him perk up quite a bit, and
an iguana about 5 feet long—just
of 50 pounds. I doubt Iggy weighed
for the ride back to the boat ramp,
floating along like it was the most
25. The tip of his tail had been
he took up a position on the tip
normal thing in the world.
bitten off, his eyes were mostly
of the bow. This brought quite a
swelled shut from salt water, and
few incredulous stares from other
After a quick discussion with my
he wasn’t moving particularly fast
boaters and a line of people fishing
passengers, we decided he really
at all.
off of a bridge we passed under.
not in the middle of the ocean with
He spent the rest of the day with
I tied up at the dock, and after a
nothing to eat. So I grabbed my
us fishing, but he laid claim to the
few minutes, Iggy slowly made his
large landing net and scooped him
front of the cockpit, using his tail
way onto the dock and moved away
up, depositing him in the front of
quite effectively like a bullwhip
into some nearby underbrush. He
the boat. It became obvious that
anytime someone came too close. I
most definitely had a look of “thank
Iggy (well, of course we named him)
had two impressive welts on my leg
you” in his eyes as he made his way
had been out there a long time.
by the time we came back in the
into the brush.
would prefer to be on dry land and
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 153
THE U DERTOW N
a i c n e r e u Q by Aaron Wood With each mile the jungle lost any
through, I recalled copious warnings
between guttural growls and high-
of “Keep an eye out for the massive
frequency babble. He carries two
crocs.”
fishing rods in one hand, and a knife suited for cutting limes in
defining trait, forcing me to track progress by the degradation of
My heart was beating faster now,
the other. He is either deranged or
the road. Ruts turned to potholes,
my mind manifesting visions of my
hallucinating, maybe both. I hope
potholes to craters. Southward bound,
fly rods scattered among pieces of
he finds some limes soon, before he
I steered my way around them,
clothing, flesh hanging from the
hurts himself.
braking only for fleeing iguanas; some
mangroves like Christmas ornaments.
green, some speckled, fleeing all the
I pulled out my sad excuse for a
I was sprinting down the path with an
same. They disappeared into the
pocket knife and wielded it in my left
upturned knife, ignoring the simple
impenetrable wall of jungle on either
hand, preparing for battle.
truth that I was far more likely to impale myself than to be consumed
side of the road, and the quiet part of I began jogging. Soon I was running
by a crocodile. No matter—I persisted,
as fast as I could, following the path
weaving my rod tips around and
The bridge meant I had arrived at
with two rods in one hand and a knife
beneath foliage, stomping up and
my destination—a structure stripped
in the other. The grunts came first,
down when stalled like a jogger held
of all niceties and upkeep, solely
then shouting—uncontrollable sounds
at a crosswalk. In just a few short
committed to function. A rusted sign
of Neanderthal and howler monkey
days, my guide would beach his
read “No pescar desde el puente,”
intermixed with shrieks and snarls.
panga at the same location for lunch,
me wondered if I should follow suit.
mosey into the mangroves barefoot,
and behind it a boy peered over the bridge’s edge into the incoming tide.
I stomped as I ran, sending
and take as much time as needed to
He searched the water for shadows
reverberations along the path to
relieve his bowels.
among splashing needlefish, a hand
announce the arrival of a large and
line dangling from his grasp. He did
scary beanpole of a man. I’m not to
And then, water at my shoes. Soft
not acknowledge me, only checked
be messed with, motherfucker. Do.
sand. A patch of sargassum and
his line, bobbing it up and down as if
Not. Try. Me.
a color palette of broken plastics trapped in its tendrils. Before me the
steeping a bag of tea. From The Jungle’s perspective: A
Caribbean Sea pushed and pulled onto
I searched for the path that would
deranged gringo, rubber-bootie shod
an expansive flat; blue topaz in the
lead me to the beach. Peering into a
and stinking of bug spray, is dance-
light, soft jade in the shadows cast
minuscule clearing among the road
running down a path frequented by
by what few clouds hung skyward.
brush, an inkling of a trail vanished
locals. He screams to himself in some
All sense of dread, of adrenaline-
into mangroves. Scraping my way
primordial language, alternating
fueled anxiety, was swept up and
154 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
away, carried into the channel that
a stranglehold on the beaches of the
summer sun demanding payment in
intersected the beach, back toward
Yucatan and beyond, washing up in
sweat equity and exhaustion. The tide
the bridge, and into the lagoon
massive amounts and stretching so
was at its highest point, and a school
behind me. The system allowed for
far one must wonder if it originates
of bar jacks circled the flat. A pair of
copious bonefish, snook, and jacks to
at the skyline. Along the hotel fronts
frigate birds drifted above me as if
enter and exit the lagoon as needed,
and touristy beaches of the Yucatan,
suspended by the sky, their puppet
providing the adventurous angler with
young men in blue jeans and long-
master having stepped away, leaving
ample opportunity.
sleeve shirts pitch the seaweed into
them to dangle.
wheelbarrows by the ton, hauling it I tied a Mantis Shrimp onto my
off the beach from sunup till sunset,
While the bustling town I had left
8-weight, a minnow onto my 10. As
stopping only for lunch, arriving back
offered ample opportunity for fun
I went to put on my sunglasses, I
each morning to find every square
and culture, I couldn’t help but feel
realized none were to be found. I did
inch of the beach filled again. I find
that, alone on this beach, guarded by
my best to swallow my frustration,
relaxing in a chair in the shadow
crocodiles and alive with predatory
acknowledging that eagerness is
of such brutal workmanship to be
fish, I was exactly where I needed to
perhaps the greatest enemy of the
impossible, so I opt for places where
be. Like the feeling of the first days
angler. It leads to tailing loops, weak
the playing field is level. In this
of a first love, when space and time
knots, and forgotten sunglasses.
instance, the sargassum was winning.
warp and grant the briefest moment
Before I had time to feel bad for
to revel in a sense of purpose so
myself, a trio of bonefish were so
Close to abandoning my search for
whole and fragile the lover must cup
close to me I could have prodded
the snook that patrol the shallows,
it in his palms, sip at its essence,
them with my rod tip. I splashed the
the distinct lateral line of a 10-pound
and savor its delight before it slips
fly in front of them and the lead fish
fish stuck out in the otherwise rust-
through his fingers. Isolation, such a
ate, turned, and broke off the fly.
colored section of sloshing water, just
rare commodity, such a tantalizing
15 feet away. Putting the fly in front
prospect; it gnaws at my innards
I walked up and down the flat, finding
of the fish should have been easy, so
when away, drives me to despair when
ample bonefish in singles and large,
I promptly overshot the cast and laid
gone too long.
nervous schools. They were all eager
my fly line atop its head. Before I was
to eat a fly, giving me little chance
able to verbalize my own self-loathing,
Without water, I assembled my gear,
to choose the larger specimens. I
the snook moved out of the shallows
trudged up the beach and back to
moved on to where the waves began
and into deeper water.
the mangroves. I stood at their edge,
to crest and roll onto the beach,
fondling the knife in my pocket,
pitching heaps of dreaded sargassum
I returned to the flat and chugged
wondering if, somehow, I could
onto the shoreline. The seaweed has
the remainder of my water, a late
muster some composure.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 155
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