Beating Bangkok Traffic by Boat

Another way to cut across the city

by Morgan JT

Bangkok metropolis is divided by Chao Phraya River, the longest river in Thailand. It is 370km long and empties into the Gulf of Thailand. The river and the canals are the veins and lifeblood of the city. It has been the main commute and commerce since the founding date. Many have come to know Bangkok as the ‘Venice of the East’ with Chao Phraya River known as ‘The River of Kings.’

Aside from the river commute, smaller still is Bangkok’s ‘khlong,’ meaning 'canal' in Thai. King Rama III built the canals to transport Thai soldiers, supplies and weaponry to Cambodia in the years before the Siamese-Vietnamese War (1841- 1845).

Today, the word ‘khlong’ doesn’t conjure the image of beautiful, fresh or clean waterways, but rather black, trash-filled and dirty water accompanied by a very unpleasant smell. Khlong Saen Saep is a well-known and well-traverse system with daily running transport boats. The canal connects Chao Phraya River to Prachinburi and Chachoengsao provinces.

Khlong Saen Saep

Khlong Saen Saep or Saen Saep Canal is one of Bangkok’s main drainage arteries. The canal is 72km long, passes through 21 districts and connects to more than 100 smaller canals. The khlong system begins at Khlong Mahanak in Bangkok and flows into the Bang Pa Kong River in Chachoengsao province.

The construction of the canals began in 1837 and completed three years later. It was once filled with lotus flowers. During King Mongkut’s fourth reign (1851-1868), he ordered the construction of Sra Pathum Palace in Siam District. The lotus-filled canals lend the name to the palace and today’s Pathum Wan District.

Through the years, the water becomes heavily polluted. The current Prime Minister, Prayut Chan-o-cha initiated a two-year effort to clean up the canal in 2017-2018. The authority has confirmed an improvement in the water quality in June 2019.

Bangkok Boat Transports Travelling along the river and canals can be a great alternative. There are two primary boat services in Bangkok: Khlong Saen Saep Express and Chao Phraya Express.

Khlong Saen Saep Express is a transport company. Established since 1990, it offers express boat services for the general public. The 72km-long canal passes through 21 districts and connects to more than 100 smaller canals. While Chao Phraya Express offers riverine transportation between Nonthaburi province and Bangkok.

Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat Service

​The Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat operates like water buses and has been serving since 1990. It runs on the Khlong Saen Saep between Pom Prap Sattru Phai and Bang Kapi Districts. The northern route (Golden Mount) runs from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam. The southern line (NIDA) runs from Pratunam to NIDA or Wat Sriboonrueng, parallel to Petchburi Road.

The boats run daily from 5.30am-8.30pm on weekdays and from 5.30am-7pm on weekends and public holidays. They run roughly every 20 minutes, but they can run as often as every minute during rush hours.

There are up to 100 boats in operation serving approximately 60,000 commuters daily. There are convenient transfer locations from the BTS, MRT, Chao Phraya Express Boat, Khao San Road, MBK or CentralWorld. The fare is from 8-20 baht depending on the distance.

Chao Phraya Express Boat Services

Ruea Duan Chao Phraya or Chao Phraya Express runs between Bangkok and Nonthaburi. The company serves both local commuters and tourists since 1971. The river tourist boats, weekend boat tours and charter boats are also available.

Chao Phraya Express has up to 65 boats in operation along the 21km route and serves approximately 40,000 commuters and travellers daily.

There are five service routes for Chao Phraya Express: local line (no flag), orange flag, green flag, yellow flag and the tourist boat or the blue flag.

The Local Line (no flag)

It runs from Nonthaburi (N30) to Wat Rajsingkorn (S3). It runs twice daily. The morning round is from 6:45am-7:30am and the afternoon round is from 4pm-4:30pm. Fares range from 9-13 baht depending on the distance.

The Orange Flag

Boats run from Nonthaburi (N30) to Wat Rajsingkorn (S3) daily from 6am-7pm. The fare is B15.

The Green Flag

Boats run from Pakkred (N33) to Nonthaburi (N30) and to Sathorn (Centre) on weekdays. The morning service runs from 6:10am- 8:10am, the afternoon service runs from 4:05pm-6:05pm. Fares range from B13-32 depending on the distance.

The Yellow Flag

Boats run from Nonthaburi (N30) to Sathorn (Centre) on weekdays. The morning service is from 6:15am-8:20am and from 4pm-8pm for afternoon service. The fare is B20.

Traveller’s Best Practices

Boarding the boat can be a challenge, a feat of acrobatic of sorts. The boats will only stop long enough for passengers to transfer on and off before swiftly taking off again.

The boat drivers may not take kindly to the slow-moving passengers. If you hear the words, ‘reaw reaw’ that means ‘quick quick.’

The piers can be slippery or wet, do be careful while boarding and wear proper shoes. If you are new to the boat and boarding system, it is best to ask the staff to assist you.

Once boarded, take a seat or find a spot to stand and the boat’s porter will find you to sort out the tickets.

Reference:

www.transitbangkok.com/khlong_boats.html www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com