A Brief History of Indigenous Flavors in Central Arizona

By Angie Johnson-Schmit

Long before American settlers landed in Arizona, several indigenous peoples inhabited the region. Perhaps the most well-known indigenous groups in Central Arizona are the Yavapai. Other than a few bands that grew small plots of crops, the Yavapai were not farmers, but hunter-gatherers. Central Arizona's cuisine was also influenced by other indigenous nations farther to the North and South, bringing other types of food to the region. Some of those flavors are still found in modern Arizona cuisine.

Much of the land in Central Arizona was difficult to use for agriculture. Historically, many Yavapai followed a regular migratory loop to gather wild plants and fruits and game animals. The Yavapai diet included native edible fruits, nuts, seeds, and other plants. Sunflower seeds, hackberries, juniper berries, acorns, and walnuts were common food sources. While deer, rabbit, and quail were hunted, eating fish was considered taboo.

One of the most famous Yavapai dishes is roasted agave hearts. Many people today associate the spikey succulent, also known as a century plant, with tequila or agave syrup which is used as a sweetener. While other parts of agave are edible, the hearts were frequently used as a food source by the Yavapai.

Agave plants are found abundantly in Central Arizona. The Yavapai would harvest the mature agave plants and trim them, much like an artichoke. The agave hearts would then be placed in a pit filled with coals, covered, and roasted for days. Agave hearts have a sweet flavor, sometimes compared to sweet potatoes, and can be stored.

The Yavapai were known to trade items, including their famous baskets, with other indigenous groups for food.

Their territory was extensive, ranging from the San Francisco Peaks in the north to the Gila River and Salt River in the south, providing ample opportunity to trade with their neighbors.

Other foods that influenced contemporary Arizona cuisine probably originated from neighboring indigenous tribes, including the pueblo people to the north.

The Hopi are famous for their centuries-old practice of "dry farming," meaning they do not irrigate and rely solely on water from rainfall.

They have been successfully raising drought tolerant varieties of corn, beans, and squash in small plots for generations. a batter of finely ground blue corn meal, water, and ashes. It gets its dusky blue color from the blue corn and ashes. A special piki stone, traditionally greased with lamb or goat brains, is heated over coals. The batter is spread by hand over the stone griddle in a paper-thin layer. The delicate sheets are peeled off the stone and rolled up.

Piki bread is an important and delicious part of traditional Hopi cuisine used for both everyday meals and ceremonies. The bread is crunchy, but the sheets are so thin they almost melt in your mouth. It tastes a bit like unsalted corn chips and is often eaten with stews, beans, and soups.

Another big influence on Arizona’s cuisine comes from indigenous groups to the south in Mexico. The Yaqui share a lot of food similarities with Northwestern Mexico and other Southwestern U.S. indigenous groups. Their homeland is located near the Yaqui River in Sonora, but there are also communities located in Arizona near the border with Mexico.

According to Nicole Lucero, a member of the Yaqui tribe currently living in Yavapai County, the Yaqui were historically an agrarian society. They raised crops like corn, squash, and beans, with some heirloom varieties like tepary beans still in use today. The Yaqui also consumed a lot of seafood and freshwater fish, including oysters.

Cattle were not indigenous to Mexico, but the Yaqui did hunt and eat turtles, roadrunners, and quail, along with other game animals. Deer was both a common and sacred food.

A major part of Yaqui cosmology, the animal was considered the source of life that sacrificed itself so that the Yaqui might live. In modern times, deer is used more as a ceremonial food.

Many indigenous flavors of Central Arizona had an impact on contemporary cuisine. While corn and beans are often associated with Mexican cuisine, these ingredients and many of our favorite dishes are rooted in the indigenous history of our state. From tequila to tacos, and the recent uptick in foods and drinks sweetened with agave instead of sugar, indigenous flavors still flourish in Arizona.