Tamara Kinney's Master's Design Thesis by Tamara Kinney

WOOL : MASTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DESIGN THESIS The University of Texas at Austin School of Architecture Tamara Kinney, Master of Interior Design, Spring 2014 Advisors | Dr. Nancy Kwallek + Igor Siddiqui

Figure A.1

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to express my deepest appreciation and thanks to my advisors Dr. Nancy Kwallek and Igor Siddiqui of the School of Architecture at the University of Texas at Austin for encouraging my research and allowing me to grow as a designer. Your advice on both my research and design process has been instrumental to the completion and quality of my Masters Design Study. In addition I would like to thank Lois Weinthal, who first introduced me to the possibilities of felt and wool fiber. I would like to extend my gratitude to Dr. Richard Corsi and Daniel Lu from the Civil Architectural and Environmental Engineering Department for sharing their research and test studies. A special thanks to Anais and Jane McBride from the McRanch in Dripping Springs, TX for allowing me to experience smallscale fiber processing with a hands-on approach and providing local Texas wool roving. Additionally, I would like to express appreciation to my fellow Materials Co-op colleagues for their helpful feedback and assistance throughout this process and particularly the Director, Jennifer Wong for supporting my thesis research and exhibiting my final installations. My sincerest thanks to the University of Texas at Austin School of Architecture and the Materials Co-op for their financial assistance. A special thank you to my family for their unconditional support and encouragement throughout all of my endeavors. Words cannot express how grateful I am for all of the sacrifices you have made on my behalf. I would also like to thank all of my friends who supported me in this journey, and incited me to strive towards my goals. Graduate school has been the most invaluable and intellectually inspiring two years of my life and I thank everyone who helped me along the way.

ABSTRACT Given the increasing awareness of indoor air quality (IAQ) and the direct correlation to human health, passive removal materials (PRM) have become known as a potential strategy for reducing occupant exposure to indoor air pollutants (Lu 2013). In recent studies, untreated natural wool fiber has been recognized as a PRM for removing formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide. These are common volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emitted from sources, such as building materials, fixtures, furnishings and cleaning supplies (Darling et al. 2012). Test chamber studies have shown that wool fiber can irreversibly remove up to 67% of these VOCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in an interior environment (Curling et al 2012). When the toxins come in physical contact with the fiber, a chemical reaction occurs due to the amino-acid side chains within the keratin molecule. Increase in air-tight buildings has recently become a concern with the rising popularity of sustainable building practices, causing occupant exposure to these indoor air pollutants to rise (Weschler 2009). Beyond known adverse health effects, such as eye irritation and respiratory issues, formaldehyde has been designated by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as a human carcinogen and is the leading cause for Sick Building Syndrome (SBS) (World Health Organization 2010). The interior cortex of a wool fiber is hydrophilic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; highly water absorbent, and can absorb 1/3 its weight in moisture. Wool fiber has a unique wicking property that allows the fiber to absorb water vapor from the air in a regulating sense; absorbing when there is an excess moisture level and releasing the gained moisture when the surrounding atmosphere is less humid. This provides passive humidity regulation in an indoor environment, stabilizing the comfort level of 20-50% relative humidity (RH) without requiring higher air-conditioning or ventilation rates (Bingelli 2010). Wool also has excellent properties for optimizing indoor acoustics, as it absorbs acoustic energy via the friction of air being moved through the tiny spaces between fibers and reduces traveling noise and reverberation (Bingelli 2010). In an untreated, natural roving state the density of wool is ideal for acoustic control in conversational speech situations where 70dB or lower is present, such as meeting rooms, lobbies and restaurants. With the consideration of these properties, wool has the capability to improve the indoor environment quality (IEQ) and the health of occupants through the absorption of indoor air pollutants, humidity regulation and acoustic control. As Australia and the USA are among the top 3 wool producing countries, I will be working specifically with locally sourced wool from New South Wales and Texas as a basis for a sustainable IEQ intervention installation model that may be applied to future projects. The wool was obtained from local, small-scale fiber farms that implement hand processing in an effort to reduce toxins, in addition to lowering the manufacturing energy and transportation emission requirements. The local supply chain model provides increased environmental, social, economic and human health benefits to the design. Individual installations based on the vernacular wool fiber atrributes and interior climate needs will greatly increase the overall spatial environment, while also serving as an aesthetically pleasing piece of art.

Figure A.2

TABLE OF CONTENTS Acknowledgements ii Abstract iv Table of Contents vi List of Figures viii List of Acronyms II 1 WOOL 1.1 Wool: An Animal Fiber 4 1.2 Key Historical Dates 6 1.3 Global Wool Production 8 1.4-1.6 NSW Sheep + Wool Production 10 1.7-1.10 TX Sheep + Wool Production 12 1.11 Local Supply Chain Model 14 1.12-1.15 NSW Climate + Wool 16 1.16-1.19 TX Climate + Wool 18 2 DESIGN 2.1 Wool: Masters Design Thesis 22 2.2-2.3 TX Campanula 24 2.4-2.7 TX Campanula Diagrams + Renderings 26 2.8 TX Campanula Instructional Making Diagram 28 2.9-2.10 A.Knot 30 2.11-2.12 A.Knot Diagram + Renderings 32 2.13 A.Knot Instructional Making Diagram 34 2.14-2.16 WEST Austin Studio Tour Installation + Process 36 3 WOOL: A NATURAL FIBER 3.1 Wool Fiber Attributes 40 3.2 Fiber Comparison + Defining Wool Terminology 42 3.3-3.4 Natural Animal Fibers 44 3.5-3.7 Sheep Wool Grades + Standardizing Systems 46 3.8-3.9 Sheep Fiber Quality 48 3.10-3.11 Wool Color Range + Sheep Fleece Diagram 50 4

WOOL + SUSTAINABILITY 4.1 Wool Processing 4.2-4.3 The McRanch Hand Processing 4.4-4.5 Wool Life Cycle 4.6-4.7 Coâ&#x201A;&#x201A; + Photosynthesis Diagram 4.8 Wool Challenges + Opportunities

54 56 58 60 62

Figure A.3

5 UNIQUE WOOL PROPERTIES FOR INTERIOR APPLICATIONS 5.1 Wool Fiber Composition 5.2-5.3 Acoustic Absorption 5.4-5.9 Industrial Felt Panel Acoustic Testing 5.10-5.11 Humidity Regulation 5.12 Indoor Air Quality Terminology + Toxin Danger Levels Environmental Protection Agency 9 Priority Chemical Pollutants 5.13-5.14 VOC Sources + Human Health Effects 5.15-5.16 Fiber Absorption of Indoor Air Contaminants + Formaldehyde 5.17-5.18 Nitrogen Dioxide + Sulfur Dioxide Rate of Removal 6 PRECEDENTS 6.1-6.5 Claudy Jongstra 6.6-6.11 Janice Arnold 6.12-6.19 Robert Morris 6.20-6.24 Anne Kyyro Quinn 6.25-6.29 Dana Barnes 6.30-6.34 Kathryn Walker 6.35-6.40 Joseph Beuys 6.41-6.49 Ruff Collar + Ruff Rose Panel 7

NATURAL DYEING 7.1 Naturally Dyed Wool Roving 7.2-7.3 How To Wet Felt 7.4 Blackberries 7.5 Turmeric 7.6 Spinach 7.7 Beets 7.8 Natural Dye Composition + Research Notes

66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 100 104 106 108 110 112 114 116

8 WOOL PROTOTYPES + PROCESS 8.1 Design Constraints 120 8.2 Wool Prototypes 122 8.3-8.8 Soft Rose Translations 124 8.9-8.10 Felt Forms + Natural Wool Roving Ideas 126 8.11-8.16 Hill Country Mapping + Landscape Inspired Prototypes 128 8.17-8.22 The Yucca Prototype + Exploring Crochet 130 8.23-8.26 First Exploration of TX Campanula Forms 132 8.27-8.31 Christoper Wool Inspired Felt Book Cover 134 9 CONCLUSION + RECOMMENDATIONS 9.1 Moving Forward + Design Details 138 10

BIBLIOGRAPHY 140

LIST OF FIGURES A.1 Image: Sheep in Pasture i A.2 Image: Sheep iv A.3 Image: TX Campanula Close Up v/vi A.4 Image: NSW Faemland vii A.5 Image: Sheep Close Up II 1.1 Image: Sheep Close Up 3 1.2 Diagram: Key Historical Dates Timeline 5-6 1.3 Map: Global Wool Production 7-8 1.4 Map: NSW Sheep + Wool Production 9 1.5 Graph: Australian Wool Production + Pricing 10 1.6 Graph: Australian Sheep Head Count + Wool Production 10 1.7 Map: TX Counties Sheep Head Count + Wool Production 11 1.8 Table: U.S. Sheep Count + Wool Production 12 1.9 Diagram: Global Fiber Market Share Pie Charts 12 1.10 Graph: U.S. Sheep + Lamb Inventory 12 1.11 Diagram: Local Supply Chain Model 13-14 1.12 Image: NSW Landscape 15 1.13 Map: NSW Climate 16 1.14 Image: NSW Sheep Farm 16 1.15 Image: Shetland Sheep 16 1.16 Map: TX Climate 17 1.17 Image: TX Hill Country Landscape 17 1.18 Image: American Cormo Sheep 17 1.19 Image: The McRanch Gate 18 2.1 Image: TX Campanula Close Up 22 2.2 Diagram: TX Campanula Light Fixture 23 2.3 Rendering: TX Campanula Light Fixture 24 2.4 Diagram: TX Campanula Interior Environment Improvements 25 2.5 Rendering: TX Campanula Ceiling Installation 26 2.6 Diagram: TX Campanula Light Fixture 26 2.7 Diagram: Designed Hanging System + Fixture Option 26 2.8 Diagram: TX Campanula Instructional 27-28 2.9 Rendering: A.Knot 29 2.10 Image: A.Knot Floor Piece 30 2.11 Rendering: A.Knot Floor Piece 31 2.12 Diagram: A.Knot Interior Environment Improvements 32 2.13 Diagram: A.Knot Instructional 33-34 2.14 Image: TX Campanula WEST Austin Studio Tour Installing 35 2.15 Image: TX Campanula Close Up 35 2.16 Image: WEST Austin Studio Tour Installation 36

Figure A.4

3.1 Image: Raw Wool Locks Close Up 40 3.2 Diagram: Microscopic Fiber Comparison 41 3.3 Diagram: Natural Animal Fibers 43 3.4 Image: Sheep + Alpaca Farm 44 3.5 Table: Wool Standardizing Systems 45 3.6 Diagram: Sheep Breeds + UDSA Grade + Micron Range 45 3.7 Diagram: Uses For Wool By Micron Count 46 3.8 Diagram: Sheep Fiber Quality 47 3.9 Image: Sheep Farm 48 3.10 Image: Sheep Wool Color Range 49 3.11 Diagram: Sheep Fleece 50

4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8

Diagram: Wool Processing Image: The McRanch Gate Image: McRanch Hand Processing Steps Diagram: Wool Life Cycle Image: Two Sheep Image: Texas Hill Country Diagram: CO₂ + Photosynthesis Image: Sheep

53-54 55 56 57 58 59 60 62

5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13 5.14 5.15 5.16 5.17 5.18

Diagram: Wool Fiber Comparison Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up Graph: Acoustic Performance of Organic Building Materials Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Tapestry Panels Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Acoustic Mounted Panels Diagram + Chart: Felt Tapestry Panel Absorption Coefficients Diagram + Chart: Felt Acoustic Panel Absorption Coefficients Graph: Felt Tapestry Panel Acoustic Test Graph: Felt Acoustic Panel Acoustic Test Graph: Effect of Wool Fiber on Ambient Relative Humidity Image: Wool Roving Close Up Diagram: CDC Toxin Danger Levels Diagram: VOC Sources + Human Health Effects Image: Australian Sheep Farm Graph: Fiber Absorption of Indoor Air Contaminants Graph: Wool + Nylon Formaldehyde Test Chamber Results Graph: Wool + Nylon Nitrogen Dioxide Test Chamber Results Graph: Wool + Nylon Sulfur Dioxide Test Chamber Results

65 67 68 69 69 70 70 70 70 71 72 74 77 78 79 80 81 82

6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5 6.6 6.7 6.8 6.9 6.10 6.11 6.12 6.13 6.14 6.15 6.16 6.17 6.18 6.19 6.20 6.21 6.22 6.23 6.24 6.25 6.26 6.27 6.28 6.29 6.30 6.31

Image: Claudy Jongstra’s Dreanth Sheep Image: Claudy Jongstra Installation Image: Claudy Jongstra Natural Dye Image: Claudy Jongstra Installation Image: Claudy Jongstra Installation Image: Janice Arnold Installation Image: Janice Arnold Installation Image: Janice Arnold Installation Image: Janice Arnold Installation Image: Janice Arnold Felt + Silk Textile Image: Janice Arnold Felt + Silk Textile Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Robert Morris Installation Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Acoustic Panel Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Walls Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Panels Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Acoustic Curtains Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Accessories Image: Dana Barnes Close Up Image: Dana Barnes in Studio Image: Dana Barnes Installation Pieces Image: Dana Barnes Wool Pieces Image: Dana Barnes Wool Rug Image: Kathryn Walker Felt Wall Image: Kathryn Walker Ceiling Installation

85 85 85 86 86 87 87 88 88 88 88 89 89 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95

6.32 6.33 6.34 6.35 6.36 6.37 6.38 6.39 6.40 6.41 6.42 6.43 6.44 6.45 6.46 6.47 6.48 6.49

Image: Kathryn Walker Headboard Image: Kathryn Walker Showroom Image: Kathryn Walker Acoustic Wall Image: Joseph Beuys Installation Image: Joseph Beuys Installation Image: Joseph Beuys Installation Image: Joseph Beuys Installation Image: Joseph Beuys Installation Image: Joseph Beuys Installation Image: 16th Century Ruff Collar Image: 16th Century Ruff Collar Image: Ruff Collar Front Image: Ruff Collar Side Image: Ruff Collar Back Rendering: Ruff Rose Panel Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up 1 Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up 2 Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up 3

96 96 96 97 97 97 98 98 98 99 99 99 99 99 100 100 100 100

7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 7.8

Image: Naturally Dyed Roving Image: How to Wet Felt Step-by-Step Image: Dyed Roving + Linen Textile Image: Blackberry Installation Image: Turmeric Installation Image: Spinach Installation Image: Beet Installation Image: Natural Dye Composition

104 105 106 107-108 109-110 111-112 113-114 115

8.1 Image: Sheep Flock 119 8.2 Image: Multiple Wool Prototypes 121-122 8.3 Image: Step-by-Step Soft Rose 123 8.4 Image: Soft Rose Translation 124 8.5 Image: Soft Rose Translation 124 8.6 Image: Soft Rose Close Up 1 124 8.7 Image: Soft Rose Close Up 2 124 8.8 Image: Soft Rose Close Up 3 124 8.9 Image: Circular Felt Form + Technique Exploration 125 8.10 Image: Natural Untreated Wool Roving Close Up 126 8.11 Image + Sketch: Hill Country Mapping Inspiration 127 8.12 Image: Mapping Wool Prototype 127 8.13 Image: Mapping Wool Prototype Close Up 127 8.14 Image + Sketch: Hill Country Landscape Inspiration 128 8.15 Image: Landscape Wool Prototype 128 8.16 Image: Landscape Wool Prototype Close Up 128 8.17 Image + Sketch: Yucca Inspiration 129 8.18 Image: Yucca Wool Prototype 129 8.19 Image: Yucca Wool Prototype Close Up 129 8.20 Image: Crochet Exploration 130 8.21 Image: Crochet Exploration Prototype 130 8.22 Image: Crochet Exploration Prototype Close Up 130 8.23 Image: First TX Campanula Prototype 131 8.24 Image: First TX Campanula Prototype Close Up 131 8.25 Image: Second TX Campanula Prototype 132 8.26 Image: Second TX Campanula Prototype Close Up 132 8.27 Image: Christoper Wool Portrait 133 8.28 Image: Felted Wool Book Cover 133 8.29 Image: Christopher Wool Painting 133 8.30 Image: Felted Wool Book Cover Open 133 8.31 Image: Felted Wool Book Cover Process 134

LIST OF ACRONYMS ACH - Air Changes per Hour

MDF – Medium density fiberboard

ASTM – American Society for Testing Materials

NRC – Noise-reduction coefficient

CDC - Center for Disease Control + Prevention

PRM - Passive Removal Material

CH₂O or HCHO - Formaldehyde

RH – Relative humidity

cN/tex - centiNewton/tex

SBS - Sick Building Syndrom

CO₂ – Carbon Dioxide

SO₂ - Sulfur Dioxide

dB - Decibel

UF – Urea-formaldehyde

EPA – Environmental Protection Agency

USDA – United States Department of Agriculture

Hz - Hertz

USGBC – Unites States Green Building Council

IARC - International Agency for Research on Cancer

VOC – Volatile Organic Compound

IAQ – Indoor Air Quality

WHO - World Health Organization

IEQ – Indoor Environment Quality

WRONZ – Wool Research Organization of New Zealand

ISO – International Organization for Standardization

Figure A.5 II

WOOL

Figure 1.1

WOOL : AN ANIMAL FIBER A NATURAL FIBER FROM THE COAT OF A SHEEP. ONE OF THE OLDEST TEXTILE MATERIALS, DATING BACK TO 8000 BC. RAPIDLY RENEWABLE RESOURCE - SHEEP ARE SHEARED ONCE A YEAR. WOOL FIBER THICKNESS AND FINENESS RANGES FROM COARSE TO MERINO. ENDLESS APPLICATIONS: FROM INDUSTRIAL TO BUILDING MATERIALS, APPAREL AND HOME FURNISHINGS. WOOL CAN BE PROCESSED AS A WOVEN OR NONWOVEN TEXTILE. WOOL REQUIRES VERY LITTLE TO ZERO MECHANICAL PROCESSING. WOOL FIBER CAN BE PRODUCED INTO ROVING OR YARN USING NO TOXINS. U.S. IS THE LARGEST CONSUMER OF WOOL AS A TEXTILE. AUSTRALIA IS THE LARGEST PRODUCER OF WOOL, WITH THE U.S. FOLLOWING AS 3RD, AFTER CHINA. WOOL HAS VERY STRONG THERMAL, MOISTURE, ACOUSTIC AND TOXIN ABSORBING QUALITIES.

KEYHISTORICAL HISTORICAL DATES KEY DATES

ENGLAND FORBID THE IMPORT OF SHEEP TO AMERICA

BRITAIN’S “BRONZE AGE” WEAVES WOOL YARN INTO CLOTH

FELT APPLIQUE MOTIF FOUND IN WALL PAINTINGS IN TURKEY

INVENTION OF THE FLYING SHUTTLE

WOOL CLOTHING WORN IN BABYLON (LAND OF WOOL)

1748

1720’s

1200

600 BC

4000 BC

SHEEP WERE FIRST DOMESTICATED

1733

WOOL USED IN YURT CONSTRUCTION TO CREATE DWELLINGS IN GREECE + MONGOLIA

1600

55 BC

1900 BC

6500 BC 8000 BC

BRITISH DEVELOP A STRONG WOOL INDUSTRY

INVENTION OF WOOL CARDING TOOL INVENTION OF THE SPINNING WHEEL

ENGLISH MAKE WOOL TRADE A PUNISHABLE CRIME + AMERICAN WOOL TRADE GROWS

INDUSTRIAL MANUFACTURING OF FELT BEGAN IN EUROPE

INVENTION OF THE SPINNING JENNY

WOOL DEMAND DECLINING DUE TO RISE IN SYNTHETIC PRODUCTION

FIRST SHEEP ARRIVED IN AUSTRALIA

1870

2010

1974

2012

1813

AU + NZ WOOL PRODUCTION AT ALL TIME LOW DUE TO DROUGHT + $

1993

1788

1769

Figure 1.2

1940

1850

1764 FIRST AMERICAN WOOLEN MILL

US SHEEP HEAD COUNT DOUBLE WHAT IT IS IN 2013. ECONOMIC + CULTURAL

AUSTRALIA SENDS LARGEST SHIPMENT OF WOOL TO ENGLAND TO DATE AUSTRALIA BECOMES WORLDS NO. 1 PRODUCER + SUPPLIER OF WOOL

MFA - MULTI FIBER ARRANGEMENT PASSED. QUOTAS ON TRADE FROM DEVELOPING TO DEVELOPED COUNTRIES (EXPIRED 2005)

$1.00 U.S. WOOL $/lb. RAISES OVER $1.00 FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HISTORY

Figure 1.3

17%

GLOBAL WOOL PRODUCTION 1. AUSTRALIA - 25% 2. CHINA - 18% 3. UNITED STATES 17% 4. NEW ZEALAND 11% 5. ARGENTINA 3% 6. UNITED KINGDOM 2% 7. IRAN 2% 8. AFGHANISTAN 2% 9. INDIA 2% 10. SUDAN 2% 11. SOUTH AFRICA 1%

18%

2% 2% 2%

25% 11% 8

Figure 1.4

NSW SHEEP + WOOL PRODUCTION SHEEP HEAD COUNT + ANNUAL WOOL PRODUCTION (IN TONNES) Climate Zone Map. Australian Government 2009.

ANNUAL WOOL PRODUCTION (Tonnes/SLA)

SHEEP + LAMBS #/sq.km.

3,000 - 7,500

26-61

2,300 - 3,000

61-108

1,600 - 2,300 250 - 1,600

108-171 171-267

AUSTRALIAN WOOL PRODUCTION + PRICE

Tonne ‘000s Tonne 700 ‘000s 700 600

$/KG CLEAN $/KG 14 CLEAN 14 12

COST *EMI COST *EMI

600 500

12 10

SHORN WOOL PRODUCTION SHORN WOOL PRODUCTION

500 400 400 300

810 68

300 200

200 100

100 0

1996 -97 1996 -97

1990 -00 1990 -00

2002 -03 2002 -03

2005 2008 -06 -09 2005 2008 -06YEAR -09

2011 -12 2011 -12

2014 -15 2014 -15

2017 -18 2017 -18

Figure 1.5 YEAR

WOOL (mkg greasy) WOOL 1200 greasy) (mkg 1200 1000 1000 800 800 600 600 400 400 200 200 0 0

SHEEP (million) SHEEP SHEEP #’s +WOOL PRODUCTION 200 (million) 180 200 160 SHEEP 180 140 160 SHEEP WOOL 120 140 100 WOOL 120 80 100 60 80 40 60 20 40 0 20 ‘70 ’83 ‘76 ’79 ‘82 ’85 ‘88 ’91 ‘94 ’97 ‘00 ’03 ‘06 ’11 0 YEAR ‘70

’83

‘76

’79

‘82

’85

‘88

’91

0 YEAR

Figure 1.6

‘94

’97

‘00

’03

‘06

’11

Figure 1.7

TOP 20 TEXAS COUNTIES SHEEP HEAD COUNT + ANNUAL WOOL PRODUCTION (IN LBS) Climate Zone Map. PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State University. Created 2 June 2013.

5,000 SHEEP/RING ANNUAL WOOL PRODUCTION (LBS) BLACK - HIGHEST

U.S.SHEEP SHEEP COUNT + WOOL WOOL PRODUCTION PRODUCTION U.S. YEAR |

GLOBAL FIBER GLOBAL FIBERMARKET MARKETSHARE SHARE

SHEEP HEAD | SHORN WOOL | AVG. $/LB | TOTAL $ COUNT [MILLION] [MILLION LBS] [MILLION]

2013

5.34

---

2012

5.35

28.5

$1.53

43.6

2011

5.53

29.3

$1.67

48.9

2010

5.63

30.6

$1.15

35.3

2009

5.75

30.9

$0.79

24.4

2008

6.06

33.0

$0.99

32.5

2007

6.19

34.5

$0.88

30.3

1960 WOOL COTTON SYNTHETICS CELLULOSICS

2012

Figure 1.9

U.S. SHEEP SHEEP ++ LAMB U.S. LAMBINVENTORY INVENTORY

(000) HEAD

2006

6.23

36.0

$0.68

24.4

2005

6.14

37.2

$0.71

26.3

2004

6.09

37.6

$0.80

29.9

9,000

2003

6.35

38.1

$0.72

27.4

8,000

2002

6.69

41.2

$0.53

21.8

7,000

2001

6.93

43.0

$0.36

15.3

11,000 10,000 TOTAL

BREEDING

6,000 5,000

2000

7.24

46.4 Figure 1.8

$0.33

15.5

4,000 95

YEAR

Figure 1.10

09 12

LOCAL SUPPLY CHAIN MODEL Figure 1.11

LOCALLY SOURCED

LOCAL + SMALL-SCALE PROCESSING

CHOOSE IN SEASON IF SEASONAL

EASY ACCESS TO THE SUPPLY CHAIN

EASY ACCESS TO MATERIAL SUPPLY

EASE TO INTENSIVE QUALITY CONTROL

SUPPORT THE LOCAL ECONOMY

SUITED TO SMALL-BATCH + CUSTOM PRODUCTS VS. MASS PRODUCTION

ELIMINATE TRANSPORTATION EMISSIONS + FUEL REQUIREMENTS

SMALL-SCALE, SUSTAINABLY RUN MANUFACTURING PROCESSES.

REGIONAL + HISTORIC MAKING

JOBS

SELL LOCALLY

HAND-MADE WITH CARE

DEVELOP ETHICAL CONSUMPTION BUYING PATTERNS IN CONSUMERS

INCREASE AVAILABLE JOBS IN THE LOCAL COMMUNITY

SELL IN LOCAL SHIPS THAT SUPPORT LOCAL ECONOMY + LOCAL PRODUCTS

HISTORIC + EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT TO VERNACULAR DESIGNED PRODUCTS

ECUATE THE CONSUMER ON THE WHOLE LIFE-CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT

UTILIZE SKILLED LOCAL CRAFTSPEOPLE, TECHNICIANS + PRODUCT DESIGNERS

‘PRIDE OF PLACE’ - GEOGRAPHIC INGREDIENT BRANDING 14

Figure 1.12

NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA

WOOL USED SHETLAND SHEEP - Medium - Coarse grade - 30 Micron count - Optimal for absorption of toxins, humidity and acoustic control as the fibers are more dense and have a rough texture. Figure 1.15

Figure 1.13

NEW SOUTH WALES CLIMATE

Over half of NSW is arid to semi-arid and becomes more temperate as you move East towards the coast. The sheep population is mostly located inland NSW, where the climate is arid; a severe lack of available water that prevents the growth and development of plant and animal life.

HOW THIS EFFECTS THE BUILT ENVIRONMENT

The arid climate in NSW causes a lack of humidity needed for occupant comfort in interior environments; humans are most comfortable at 20-50% relative humidity. A coarse wool fiber installation that can be touched and wrapped around the body would allow the fiber to wick moisture and cool the temperature of the body, without having to increase air conditioning or ventilation rates. Figure 1.14

TEXAS, USA

WOOL USED AMERICAN CORMO SHEEP - Medium - Coarse grade - 26 Micron count - Optimal for absorption of toxins, humidity and acoustic control as the fibers are more dense and have a rough texture. Figure 1.18

Figure 1.16

TEXAS CLIMATE

As the climate varies throughout the state of TX, this installation will focus on the Hill Country where the McRanch is located in Dripping Springs. The climate in Central Texas is humid subtropic, characterized by hot, humid summers and mild winters.

HOW THIS EFFECTS THE BUILT ENVIRONMENT

The humid subtropic climate in Central Texas affects the interior environment with a high level of humidity, causing the relative humidity to often rise much higher than occupant comfort level. To alleviate the high humidity air conditioning and ventilation rates are increased. As humidity and hot air rise, a ceiling installation is the most appropriate design solution for a Central Texas wool.

Figure 1.17

Figure 1.19

THE McRANCH | DRIPPING SPRINGS, TX The McRanch is a small, family owned ranch located West of Dripping Springs, TX. They have a range of natural fiber animals including sheep, angora goats, llamaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and angora rabbits. The small-scale of their fiber production allows for completely natural processing using traditional methods rather than mechanical. This provides the most toxin-free fibers possible, creating the cleanest wool available and reduces the energy and transportation emission requirements. These are important quality as the wool is being used to absorb indoor air toxins. 18

DESIGN

MASTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DESIGN THESIS Indoor wool installations made from locally sourced fiber that improve the interior environment quality (IEQ) through the absorption of harmful indoor air pollutants, acoustic control and humidity regulation. Recent studies have recognized natural wool fiber as a passive removal material (PRM) that can irreversibly absorb three of the EPAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top 9 most harmful indoor air toxins: formaldehyde, nitrogen dioxide and sulfur dioxide. All of which have adverse effects on human health, such as eye irritation, respiratory issues and formaldehyde is both carcinogenic and the leading cause of Sick Building Syndrome (SBS). These are common volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emitted from building materials, fixtures, furnishings and cleaning supplies among others and are present in most interiors. Wool has excellent acoustic control properties, as it absorbs traveling noise and reverberation, providing an optimal space for conversation speech settings where 70dB or lower is present. The wool fiber also regulates the humidity in an interior environment, as the hydrophilic interior cortex retains water vapor from the air and releases the excess when the atmosphere becomes less humid. This is a form of passive humidity regulation with no increase in air conditioning or ventilation rates. Additional sustainability features are present in the development of a local supply chain model that focuses on vernacular wool fiber and the interior comfort needs of each specific design. The wool was sourced from the local family run fiber farm in Dripping Springs, TX where they hand-process their wool, which eliminates toxins, energy requirements from mechanical processing and transportation emissions. This local supply chain model has been designed for implementation on future projects, as it increases the environmental, social, economic and human health benefits of the design.

Figure 2.1

TX CAMPANULA Figure 2.2

Option to insert LED bulb and hanging metal fixture to convert to light fixture + add optimal light levels beneath the installation.

Masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Design Thesis | A sustainable ceiling installation fabricated from regional wool that will improve the interior environment through humidity regulation, acoustic control and VOC absorption, while also serving as an aesthetically pleasing piece of art. The use of vernacular, locally-sourced materials from a small-scale ranch in Dripping Springs, TX greatly decreases transportation and manufacturing emissions. The local supply chain model provides increased environmental, social, economic and human health benefits to the design. The design solution provides an intimate space while seated beneath, both visually and spatially. Optimal acoustic control is created for conversation spaces [ 70 dB or lower ], such as meeting rooms, restaurants and lobbies. The hydrophillic interior cortex of a wool fiber allows for 1/3 its weight in moisture absorption, as well as its unique wicking property, providing humidity regulation in an interior [ stabilizing the optimal level of 20-50% relative humidity ]. Recent research has proven that the wool fiber can irreversibly absorb 3 of the EPAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top 9 most harmful indoor air toxins [ formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide + nitrogen dioxide ], the ability to purify the air quality will improve human health and reduce SBS - Sick Building Syndrom. Along with the inherent wool properties and those designed for, the wool installation has the versatile option to easily become a light fixture by stringing a single bulb through the circular steel plate that has been designed to accomodate both options.

Figure 2.3 24

Wool fiber in this form provides optimal acoustic control in conversational speech situations, [ 70dB or lower ]. The wool absorbs and reduces traveling noise and reverberation to create strong direct conversation while reducing exterior noises.

INTERIOR ENVIRONMENT IMPROVEMENTS

Wool has been tested and proven to irreversibly absorb 3 of the EPA’s top 9 most harmful indoor air toxins - formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide.The keratin molecule located on the inside of the wool fiber reacts and binds to these specific chemical compounds.

Figure 2.4

Wool absorbs acoustic energy via the friction of air being moved through the tiny spaces between fibers. Increased thickness, density and porosity improve this ability. Wool can provide up to 0.90 NRC [Noise-Reduction Coefficient].

Wool fiber’s interior cortex is hydrophillic and can absorb 1/3 its weight in moisture. Wool has a unique wicking technique which allows the fiber to absorb moisture from the air, therefore it can reduce excess humidity in an interior environment. The fibers will regulate the moisture level in a space,releasing the gained humidity when the surrounding atmosphere is less humid. Humans are most comfortable in 20-50% relative humidity.

Formaldehyde, sulfure dioxide and nitrogen dioxide are common VOC’s offgased from many popular building materials, systems, furnishings, cleaning products etc. These chemical compounds tend to evaporate at room temperature and are released into the air we breathe. Indoor air toxins cause SBS - Sick Building Sydrome (formaldehyde is the largest contributor to SBS), respiratory issues, eye irritation and some are carcinogenic.

Figure 2.6

Designed to accomodate a hanging light fixture or to remain a ceiling piece.

Figure 2.5

Figure 2.7 26

1. SLIP KNOT

2. HAND POSITIONING

3. INSERT CROCHET HOOK

7. FORM LOOP

8. HOOK THROUGH KNOT

9. SINGLE STITCH TO END

13. SINGLE CROCHET THROUGH EDGE

14. CONTINUE SINGLE CROCHET IN EACH LOOP

15. TWO SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES EACH LOOP

Figure 2.8

4. BEGIN CHAIN STITCH

5. CHAIN STITCHES

6. CHAIN STITCH

10. PULL ROVING THROUGH CENTER + SINGLE STITCH

11. COMPLETED CIRCLE

12. TURN OVER. SINGLE CROCHET TO END

16. ALTERNATE 1 OR 2 SINGLE STITCHES TO CREATE TENSION

17. FINAL PIECE

Figure 2.9

A.KNOT

Figure 2.10

Masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Design Thesis | A sustainable lounging knot fabricated from regional wool that will imrpove the interior environment through humidity regulation, VOC absorption, occupant comfort and acoustic control. The A.Knot has been designed based on the regional climate conditions and wool fiber characteristics of the province of New South Wales, Australia. NSW is the highest producing province in Australia, which is the highest wool producing country in the world. Implementing the local supply chain model, this is a project based out of Australia and the use of vernacular, locally-sourced materials from a small-scale farm in New South Wales greatly decreases manufacturing energy requirements and reduces the use of processing toxins. The local supply chain model provides increased environmental, social, economic and human health benefits to the design. The design solution provides an indivual lounging space or a group resting form. The A.Knot was designed to accompany the TX Campanula as an engaging sensory installation. Viewers may lounge on the A.Knot while viewing the TX Campanula above, or a group of people may experience the installation together by resting their heads along the edge of the knot. The hydrophilic interior cortex of a wool fiber allows for 1/3 its weight in moisture absorption, working with its unique wicking property, providing passive humidity regulation to an interior and working to cool or warm the occupant laying within the knot. The wool fiber is also working as a passive removal material (PRM), irreversibly removing 3 of the EPAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top 9 more harmful indoor air pollutants: formaldehyde, nitrogen dioxide and sulfur dioxide. The ability to purify the air will improve occupant human health and reduce Sick Building Syndrome (SBS). The A.Knot is a versatile design that may be reconfigured to suit the needs and desires of the users, engaging the visitors with the material and the installation.

Figure 2.11

A.KNOT | INTERIOR + OCCUPANT IMPROVEMENTS Wool has been tested and proven to irreversibly absorb 3 of the EPA’s top 9 most harmful indoor air toxins - formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide.The keratin molecule located on the inside of the wool fiber reacts and binds to these specific chemical compounds.

As the A.Knot engages with the users body, the wool fibers unique ability to absorb moisture will provide body temperature regulation as the fiber wicks away excess moisture. This property is an important design feature as the A.Knot has been designed based on the arid climate of NSW, where interiors have an extreme lack of humidity which causes occupant discomfort.

Figure 2.12

1. 250 oz. NATURAL WOOL ROVING

2. SLIP KNOT 8 LENGTHS OF ROVING THICK

5. CONTINUE CHAIN STITCHING

7. 16’ LONG CHAIN STITCH FORM

Figure 2.13

3. TIGHT SLIP KNOT END

4. BEGIN CHAIN STITCH

8. OVER-SIZED SLIP KNOT OPTION

9. OVER-SIZE SOFT KNOT OPTION

UTSoA MATERIALS CO-OP | WEST AUSTIN STUDIO TOUR

Figure 2.14

Figure 2.15

Figure 2.16

WOOL : A NATURAL FIBER

Figure 3.1

WOOL FIBER ATTRIBUTES

NATURAL FIBER

Wool is a natural animal fiber that grows naturally as a coat on sheep and does not require any sort of chemicals or manufacturing to produce.

RAPIDLY RENEWABLE RESOURCE

According to the USGB a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Rapidly Renewable Resourceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; must be planted and harvested in less than a ten year cycle. Wool is sheared from sheep once every year.

NONWOVEN OR WOVEN APPLICATION

Wool fibers are suitable for both woven/knitted and nonwoven applications. Woven/knitted wool is processed into yarn and has great spinnability due to its scaling and crimp. Wool is the best natural fiber for nonwoven applications due to its ease of felting ability.

FELTING ABILITY

The scaly and coarse nature of a wool fiber allows it to felt together and join to other wool or natural fibers with agitation, water and soap.

ELASTICITY

Wool fibers can be bent over 30,000 times without danger of breaking or damage. It is the natural elasticity and wave or crimp that allows this fiber to be stretched as much as 130% and spring back into place when dry; a wet fiber can stretch up to 1/2.

MOISTURE ABSORPTION

Wool fibers can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture, with a moisture regain of 16-18%. Wool fibers absorb and release moisture from surrounding air without compromising its thermal efficiency.

THERMAL INSULATION

As a building insulation material, wool has an R-value of 3.5/inch of thickness.

FLAME RESISTANT

Wool is naturally flame resistant and self extinguishes. The fiber will smolder and char, but will not burst into flames. It has a very low flame spread, heat of combustion and does not melt or drip when heated.

FIBER COMPARISON + DEFINING WOOL TERMINOLOGY

COARSE WOOL

FINE WOOL

ALPACA

CASHMERE Figure 3.2

SILK

LINEN

COTTON

POLYESTER

FIBER

A unit of of matter; long, thin and flexible structure, either natural or manufactured that forms the basic element of a textile structure.

DIAMETER

The thickness or fineness of a fiber, in wool this defines the grade which is often measured by micron. Diameter ranges from 16 microns (finest merino wool) to over 40 microns (coarsest long wool types). The diameter affects the fiber flexibility and spinnability.

LENGTH

All natural fibers are staple fibers (excluding silk). Staple fibers range in length from 3/4â&#x20AC;? to 18â&#x20AC;? and are highly variable in length. The fiber length usually increases with the diameter increasing.

CRIMP

The number of bends per unit length along the wool fiber, this generally indicated the spinnability of the wool. Fibers with a fine crimp have many bends and usually have a small diameter; these can be spun into fine yarns with great lengths. Crimp is measured in crimps per inch or crimps per centimeter.

LUSTER

The light reflection or sheen of the wool fiber. The finer wools (lower micron count) generally have a higher luster than the coarse wool.

TENACITY

The tensile strength of the wool fiber. Wool is much stronger dry than wet and the fiber is hydrophillic, absorbing water into its core. Wool has a dry strength of 11.5-13 cN/tex and a moisture regain of 16-18%. The dimensional stability of a wool fiber is strong in elastic recovery, but very weak when considering shrinkage.

ELONGATION

A wool fiber has the ability to stretch, or elongate and return back to its shape when dry due to its elasticity. Dry wool has a breaking elongation of 30-40%.

Figure 3.3

SHEEP | WOOL

ANGORA RABBIT | ANGORA

ALPACA | ALPACA

CASHMERE GOAT | CASHMERE

LLAMA | LLAMA

ANGORA GOAT | MOHAIR

CAMEL | CAMEL

VICUNA | VICUNA

NATURAL ANIMAL FIBERS

Figure 3.4

SHEEP WOOL GRADES + STANDARDIZING SYSTEMS

STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS

TYPE TYPE OFOF WOOL WOOL

OLD OLD AVG. FIBER AVG. FIBER BLOOD BLOOD USDA USDA DIAMETER DIAMETER GRADE GRADE GRADE GRADE (microns) (microns)

Fine Fine Fine Fine Fine Fine Fine Fine

- 80’s - 80’s 80’s80’s 70’s70’s 64’s64’s

Under 17.70 Under 17.70 17.70-19.14 17.70-19.14 19.15-20.59 19.15-20.59 20.60-22.04 20.60-22.04

Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium

1/21/2 Blood Blood 1/21/2 Blood Blood 3/83/8 Blood Blood 3/83/8 Blood Blood 1/41/4 Blood Blood 1/41/4 Blood Blood

62’s62’s 60’s60’s 58’s58’s 56’s56’s 54’s54’s 50’s50’s

22.05-23.49 22.05-23.49 23.50-24.94 23.50-24.94 24.95-26.39 24.95-26.39 26.40-27.84 26.40-27.84 27.85-29.29 27.85-29.29 29.30-30.99 29.30-30.99

Coarse Coarse Coarse Coarse Coarse Coarse

Low 1/41/4 Low Low 1/41/4 Low Common Common

48’s48’s 46’s46’s 44’s44’s

31.00-32.69 31.00-32.69 32.70-34.39 32.70-34.39 34.40-36.19 34.40-36.19

Very Coarse Very Coarse Very Coarse Very Coarse Very Coarse Very Coarse

Braid Braid Braid Braid Braid Braid

40’s40’s 36’s36’s + 36’s + 36’s

36.20-38.09 36.20-38.09 38.10-40.20 38.10-40.20 Over 40.20 Over 40.20

*American Society for for Testing Materials *American Society Testing Materials (ASTM) Designation D3991 (ASTM) Designation D3991

Figure 3.5

DELAINE-MERINO DELAINE-MERINO DEBOUILLET DEBOUILLET

USDA Grade 80’s USDA Grade USDA Grade 80’s 80’s 17.70Micron Range 17.7017.70Micron Range Micron Range19.14 19.14 19.14

RAMBOUILLET RAMBOUILLET TARGHEE TARGHEE COLUMBIA COLUMBIA CORRIEDALE CORRIEDALE FINNSHEEP FINNSHEEP MONTADALE MONTADALE DORSET DORSET CHEVIOT CHEVIOT SOUTHDOWN SOUTHDOWN SHROPSHIRE SHROPSHIRE HAMPSHIRE HAMPSHIRE SUFFOLK SUFFOLK OXFORD OXFORD ROMNEY ROMNEY BORDER LEICESTER BORDER LEICESTER LINCOLN LINCOLN

70’s 70’s 70’s

19.1519.1519.1520.59 20.59 20.59

64’s 62’s 64’s 64’s 62’s 62’s

20.6020.6020.6022.04 22.04 22.04

22.0522.0522.0523.49 23.49 23.49

60’s 58’s 60’s 60’s 58’s 58’s

23.5023.5023.5024.94 24.94 24.94

24.9524.9524.9526.39 26.39 26.39

56’s 56’s 56’s

26.4026.4026.4027.84 27.84 27.84

Figure 3.6

54’s 50’s 54’s 54’s 50’s 50’s

27.8527.8527.8529.29 29.29 29.29

29.3029.3029.3030.99 30.99 30.99

48’s 48’s 48’s

31.0031.0031.0032.69 32.69 32.69

46’s 44’s 46’s 46’s 44’s 44’s

32.7032.7032.7034.39 34.39 34.39

34.4034.4034.4036.19 36.19 36.19

40’s 40’s 40’s

36.2036.2036.2038.09 38.09 38.09

36’s 36’s 36’s

38.1038.1038.1040.20 40.20 40.20

USES FOR WOOL BY MIRCON COUNT

SUPERFINE - 19mm

FINE WOOL 20mm - 24mm

FINE

MEDIUM

CROSSBRED CROSSBRED

25mm - 28mm 28mm - 32mm

COARSE WOOL 38mm + Coarser

INTIMATE WEAR KNITWEAR WOMEN’S WOVEN OUTERWEAR MEN’S WOVEN OUTERWEAR FELT SOCKS HAND KNITTING YARN UPHOLSTERY CARPETS INDUSTRIAL USE

RANGE Figure 3.7

CONCENTRATION

SHEEP FIBER QUALITY Figure 3.8

FINENESS 1 2

DENSITY

3 2

FINEST TO COARSEST

MOST DENSE TO LEAST DENSE

1. Head wool. 2. Dominant wool over the body. 3. Rump and britch wool.

1. Head wool. 2. Neck and shoulder wool. 3. Dominant wool. 4. Belly wool.

LENGTH

CLEAN WOOL YIELD 4

3 2

2 3

LONGEST TO SHORTEST

HIGHEST % YIELD TO LOWEST

1. Lower britch wool. 2. Dominant wool over the body. 3. Head wool.

1. Neck wool. 2. Dominant wool over the body. 3. Belly wool. 4. Head wool.

Figure 3.9

Figure 3.10

NATURAL WOOL COLOR RANGE

SHEEP FLEECE DIAGRAM Figure 3.11

7 6

1 4 3 5

1 TOP KNOT 2 NECK 3 BKS2

4 DOMINANT FLEECE 5 BKS

6 SKIRTINGS 7 LEGS

8 BRITCH 9 TAIL 50

WOOL + SUSTAINABILITY

STOCK DYE ?

WOOLEN PROCESS

SCOURING

SHEARING

Figure 4.1

WOOL PROCESSING Wool processing steps from sheep through the worsted or woolen system to final product of nonwoven felt or knitten and woven textiles.

WORSTED PROCESS

DRYING

YARN DYE ?

ROVING

CARDING

SPINNING + TWISTING

FABRIC FORMATION

GILING

DRAFTING

YARN

COMBING

FELTING (NONWOVEN)

WEAVING + KNIT (WOVEN)

YARN DYE ? 54

Figure 4.2

Figure 4.3

ANIMAL

HAND SHEARING

HAND WASHING

NATURAL DRYING 56

WOOL LIFE CYCLE

4.4 WOOLFigure LIFE CYCLE

RAW MATERIAL

LOCALLY RAISED SHEEP HAND SHEARED X1/YEAR

END OF LIFE

WOOL USED FOR COMPOST SLOW WATER DISPERSION HIGH NUTRIENCE FERTILIZER QUALITY FOOD FOR SHEEP

MATERIAL PROCESSING HAND WASHED + CARDED NATURALLY AIR DRIED HAND TWISTED INTO ROVING

“IN THE CYCLES OF THE NATURAL WORLD, NOTHING IS WASTED: EVERYTHING OLD BECOMES FOOD FOR SOMETHING NEW. THIS SIMPLE, SAFE + SUCCESSFUL DESIGN CONCEPT HAS GOVERENED OUR LIVING PLANET SINCE THE BEGINNING.”

PRODUCT USE

- WILLIAM MCDONOUGH

HUNG IN AN INTERIOR VOC SEQUESTERING HUMIDITY REGULATION ACOUSTIC ABSORPTION

MANUFACTURING

NATURAL + ORGANIC DYES HAND FORMED + WET FELTED AIR OR OVEN DRIED

PRODUCT ASSEMBLY HAND FORMED HAND SEWN CONNECTIONS

Figure 4.5

“RESTORATIVE + REGENERATIVE PRODUCTS THAT CREATE VALUE AT EVERY STEP OF THEIR LIFECYCLE - FOREVER”

- WILLIAM MCDONOUGH

Figure 4.6

CO2 + PHOTOSYNTHESIS PROCESS DIAGRAM Figure 4.7

AUTO + FACTORY FOSSIL FUEL EMISSIONS

SUNLIGHT

CO2 CYCLE

PHOTOSYNTHESIS

SOIL RESPIRATION CO2

PLANT RESPIRATION ANIMAL RESPIRATION

DIFFUSION

HUMAN EXTRACTION OF FOSSIL FUELS

AQUATIC LIFE RESPIRATION + DECOMPOSITION ROOT RESPIRATION

OIL,COAL COAL++NATURAL NATURALGAS GAS OIL, ORGANIC CARBON FROM WASTE + DEAD ORGANISMS SEDIMENTATION (SLOW)

AS A COMPETITIVE NATURAL FIBER - MUST MEET 3 BASIC REQUIREMENTS: 1. BE AVAILABLE IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITIES

2. BE ECONOMICALLY COMPETITIVE 3. HAVE SUFFICIENTLY LONG, STRONG AND FINE FIBERS IMPORT/EXPORTS - U.S. IMPORTS 40% OF ITS WOOL FROM NEW ZEALAND + 30% FROM AUSTRALIA - CHINA BUYS 70% OF ALL U.S. WOOL EXPORTS - GLOBAL WOOL PRODUCTION IN 2013 2.8 MILLION LBS - U.S. WOOL PRODUCTION IN 2013 28.5 MILLION LBS

SUPPLY + DEMAND - DEMAND FOR WOOL HAS DECLINED SINCE THE MID 1940’S WITH THE ADVENT OF SYNTHETIC FIBER PRODUCTION - SUPPLY IS LIMITED BY FARMLAND, ANIMAL POPULATION, WEATHER, NATURAL DISASTERS, DISEASE, INSECTS ETC. THEREFORE SUPPLY CAN BE UNPREDICTABLE AND CANNOT BE INCREASED AT WILL TO RESPOND TO DEMAND

AS A NATURAL FIBER - NATURAL FIBERS ARE HIGHLY VARIABLE - 41% OF GLOBAL WOOL IS ‘COARSE’

WOOL CHALLENGES + OPPORTUNITIES Figure 4.8

ACOUSTIC ABSORPTION INDOOR AIR QUALITY - VOC’S + --

HUMIDITY REGULATION

UNIQUE WOOL PROPERTIES FOR INTERIOR APPLICATIONS

WOOL FIBER COMPOSITION Figure 5.1

KERATIN MOLECURE

CORTICAL CELL MACROFIBRIL PHOTOFIBRILIS MICROFIBRIL

CORTEX

- Interior cortex is hydrophillic [highly water absorbing] and can absorb 1/3 its weight in moisture. This allows wool fiber to remove humidity from indoor air without feeling damp.

EXTERIOR

- Outer layers of the wool fiber are hydrophobic [water resistant] which increases stain resistance and lowers the need for cleaning.

CUTICULAR SCALE EPICUTICLE

NUCLEAR REMNANT

PARACORTEX

EXOCUTICLE ORTHOCORTEX ENDOCUTICLE

- Effectively + permanently removes formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide + nitrogen dioxide from indoor air due to their high reactivity to the amino acid side -chains in the keratin molecules.

CUTICLE

On the outside of the wool fiber is a protective layer of scales callec cuticle cells. They overlap like scales and the exposed edges of the cells face away from the root end, so there’s more friction when you rub the fiber in one direction than the other. This helps wool expel dirt and gives it the ability to felt. Wool felts when fibers are aligned in opposite directions and they become tangled. The scales have a waxy coating chemically bound to the surface, that stops water from penetrating the fiber but allows absorptions of water vapour. This makes wool water-repellant and resistant.

CORTEX

The cortex - the internal cells - make up 90% of the fiber. There are two main types of cortical cells - ortho-cortical and para-cortical. Each has a different chemical composition. In finer fibers, these two types of cells form in two distinctive halves. The cells expand differently when they absorb moisture, making the fiber bend - this creates the crimp in wool. In coarser fibers, the para-cortical and orth-cortical cells form more randomly, so there is less crimp.

CORTICAL CELL

The cortical cells are surrounded and help together by a cell membrane complex, acting similarly to mortar holding bricks together in a wall. The cell membrance complex contains proteins and waxy lipids and runs through the entire fiber. The molecules in this region have fairly weak intermolecular bonds, which can break down when exposed to continued abrasion and strong chemicals. The cell membrane complex allows easy uptake of dye molecules.

MACROFIBRIL

Inside the cortical cells are long filaments called macrofibrils. These are made up of bundles of even finer filaments called microfibrils, which are surrounded by a matrix region.

MATRIX

The matrix consists of high sulfur proteins. This makes wool absorbent because sulfur atoms attract water molecules. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water and can also absorb and retain large amounts of dye. This region is also responsible for wool’s fire resistance and anti-static properties.

MICROFIBRIL

Within the matrix area, there are embedded smaller units called microfibrils. The microfibrils in the matrix are rather like steel rods embedded in reinforced concrete to give strength and flexibility. The microfibrils contain pairs of twisted molecular chains, called photofibrilis and inside the keratin molecure.

TWISTED MOLECULAR CHAIN AND HELICAL COIL

Within the twisted photofibrilis molecular chains are protein chains called keratin molecure, that are coiled in a helical shape much like a spring. This structure is stiffened by hydrogen bonds and disulphide bonds within the protein chains. They link each coil of the helix, helping to prevent it stretching. The helical coil - the smallest part of the fiber - gives wool is flexibility, elasticity and resilience, which helps wool fabric keep its shape and remain winkle-free in use. The keratin molecure effectively and permanently removes VOC’s from indoor air due to the high reactivitiy of the toxins to the amino-acid side chains.

Figure 5.2

ABSORPTION COEF. (m2 Sab)

ACOUSTIC ABSORPTION

1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 100

1000 FREQUENCY (Hz)

10000

CELLULOSE (Isofloc) 60mm

MINERAL WOOL 40mm

SHEEP WOOL 60mm

RECYCLED LATEX + COCO 40mm

POLYSTYRENE PST 40mm

HEMP BRICK (66%) 300mm

ACOUSTIC PERFORMANCE OF BUILDING ELEMENTS WITH ORGANIC INSULATION MATERIALS 33rd Internoise | 2004 | Prague, CZ Figure 5.3

INDUSTRIAL FELT PANEL ACOUSTIC TESTING

FELT TAPESTRY PANEL

ANNE KYYRO QUINN STUDIO | LONDON, ENGLAND

LAINE

TULIP

LEAF

ACOUSTIC MOUNTED PANEL

Figure 5.4

Figure 5.5

FELT TAPESTRY PANEL

Figure 5.6

3-D FELTS, 2MM, ABSORPTION COEFFICIENTS Frequency (Hz)

ISO NRC 4000 8000 Class 63 1252MM, 250ABSORPTION 500 1000 2000 3-D FELTS, COEFFICIENTS Laine 0.28 0.20 0.23 Frequency 0.36 0.56 (Hz)0.65 0.76 0.69 D(H) ISO 0.45 Felt NRC Tulip 0.22 0.18 0.19 0.32 0.57 0.64 0.72 0.65 D(H) Style 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 Class 0.43 0.28 0.20 -Laine ISO CLASS : D 0.23 0.36 0.56 0.65 0.76 0.69 D(H) 0.45 0.22 HIGH 0.18 0.19 0.32 0.57 RATING 0.64 0.72 0.65 D(H) 0.43 -Tulip STRONG EFFICIENCY Felt Style

SABINE ABSORPTION COEFFICIENT

0.80

- MID TO HIGH-RANGE FREQUENCIES (1000 Hz OR GREATER) - APPLICATION: USEFUL TO LIMIT NOISE FROM CONVERSATIONAL SPEECH, FOOTFALLS OR HIGH PITCHED MACHINEIRY

0.80 0.60 Laine Tulip

0.60 0.40

Laine Tulip

0.40 0.20 0.20 0

Frequency (Hz)

ISO NRC Class 1000 2000 4000 8000 63 125 250 500 ACOUSTIC PANEL, 100MM, ABSORPTION COEFFICIENTS Leaf 0.00 0.28 1.20 Frequency 1.38 01.10 A 1.20 (Hz)1.13 1.00 1.83 ISO Felt NRC Tulip 0.00 0.37 0.22 1.32 1.15 01.07 1.09 2.12 Class A 1.19 Style 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 0.00 0.28 1.20 -Leaf ISO CLASS : A 1.20 1.38 01.10 1.13 1.00 1.83 A Tulip 0.00 0.37 0.22 1.32 1.15 01.07 1.09 2.12 A 1.19 - HIGHEST RANKING Felt Style

- 50mm FOAM FILLING - CONTROLS ECHOES AND REVERBERATION - APPLICATION: USEFUL WHERE STRONG SOUND ABSORPTION AND SPEECH INTELLIGIBILITY ARE REQUIRED

500

1000

2000

4000

8000

125

250

500

1000

2000

4000

8000

FREQUENCY (Hz) Figure 5.8

SABINE ABSORPTION COEFFICIENT

ACOUSTIC PANEL, 100MM, ABSORPTION COEFFICIENTS

250

FREQUENCY (Hz)

ACOUSTIC MOUNTED PANEL

2.50

Figure 5.7

125

2.50 2.00 2.00 1.50 1.50 1.00 Leaf Tulip

1.00 0.50 0.50 0 0

Leaf Tulip 63

125

250

500

1000

2000

4000

8000

2000

4000

8000

FREQUENCY (Hz) 63

125

250

500

1000

FREQUENCY (Hz) Figure 5.9

HUMIDITY REGULATION

100

EMPTY CHAMBER

% RELATIVE HUMIDITY

80 CHA MBE R WIT H WOO L CARPE T

50 PERIOD OF MOISTURE ABSORPTION

PERIOD OF MOISTURE GENERATION

40 0

100

120

140

MINUTES

EFFECT OF WOOL FIBER USED FOR CARPETS ON AMBIENT RELATIVE HUMIDITY IN A SMALL TEST CHAMBER Meade European Community Respiratory Health Study | 1998 Figure 5.10

160

Figure 5.11

WOOL HAS THE ABILITY TO REGULATE THE HUMIDITY OF AN INTERIOR DUE TO THE MATRIX INSIDE THE CORTICAL CELL. THE MATRIX CONSISTS OF HIGH SULFUR PROTEINS THAT CAUSE THE SULFUR ATTOMS TO ATTRACT AND ABSORB WATER MOLECULES. WOOL CAN ABSORB UP TO 30% OF ITS WEIGHT IN WATER. WHEN THE ATMOSPHERE IS DAMP, THE FIBER ABSORBS WATER VAPOUR - OR MOISTURE AND RELEASES IT WHEN THE ATMOSPHERE IS DRY, CREATING A MORE COMFORTABLE INDOOR ENVIRONMENT.

INDOOR AIR QUALITY TERMINOLOGY IEQ - INDOOR ENVIRONMENTAL QUALITY “Indoor Environmental Quality (IEQ) refers to the quality of a building’s environment in relation to the health and wellbeing of those who occupy space within. IEQ is determined by many factors, including lighting, air quality, and damp condutions. Workers are often concerned that they have symptoms or health conditions form exposure to contaminants in the buildings where they work, this of often referred to as Sick Building Syndrom (SBS)” - Center For Disease Control and Prevention

IAQ - INDOOR AIR QUALITY “Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) is a term referring to the air quality within and around buildings and structures, especially as it relates to the health and comfort of building occupants.” - Environmental Protection Agency

VOC - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUND “Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are emitted as gases from certain solids or liquids. VOCs include a variety of chemicals, some of which may have short and long-term adverse health effects. Concentrations of many VOCs are consistently higher indoors (up to ten times higher) than outdoors. VOCs are emitted by a wide variety of products numbering in the thousands. Examples include: paint and lacquers, paint strippers, cleaning supplies, pesticides, building materials and furnishings and office equipment.” - Environmental Protection Agency

U.S. CENTER FOR DISEASE CONTROL + PREVENTION

Figure 5.12

TH EFFEC AL

DANGER LEVEL

Viral Infections Respiratory Infections Bronchitis Dizziness Fatigue

TH EFFEC AL

RTICLE S IC PA N E RG

AL LE

Breathlessness Asthma Irritation Runny Nose Wheezing Coughing

Formaldehyde Carbon Monoxide Methylene Chloride Nitrogen Dioxide Pesticides Tolulene Benzene

TOXI C CO

TH EFFEC AL

Pollen Mold Fungi Tobacco Smoke Dust Mites Milldew Pet Hair Dust

DS UN PO M

Influenza Chicken Pox Measles Tuberculosis Virus Legionella Mold Strep

TS N

DANGER LEVEL

ECTIOUS INF AG E Bacteria

Memory Lapse Mild Depression Lung Dysfunction Blurred Vision Headaches Lethargy

DANGER LEVEL

9 PRIORITY CHEMICAL POLLUTANTS IN US HOMES:

INDOOR ENVIRONMENT DEPARTMENT, ENVIRONMENTAL ENERGY TECHNOLOGIES DIVISION

ACETALDEHYDE

CANCER + NONCANCER “primary source in indoor environments is construction lumber. Secondary source comes from the combustion of hydrocarbons during cooking, smoking and drinking alcohol”

ACROLEIN

NONCANCER “used as a chemical intermediate in the production of acrylic acid and its esters. It is used directly as an aquatic herbicide and algicide in irrigation canals, as a microbiodice in oil wells, liquid hydrocarbon fuels, cooling-water towers and water treatment ponds, and as a slimicide in the manufacture of paper. In addition, acrolein is produced from the combustion of fossil fuels, tobacco smoke and pyrolyzed animal and vegetable fats”

BENZENE

CANCER “formed from both natural processes and human activities. Natural sources include volcanoes and forest fires and is a natural part of crude oil, gasoline and cigarette smoke. Benzene is also used industrially to make other chemicals in the production of plastics, resins, nylon and other synthetic fibers, rubbers, dyes, detergents, drugs and pesticides. Benzene found indoors comes from glues, paints, furniture wax and detergents.”

1,3-BUTADIENE

CANCER “primary sources of 1,3-butadiene in indoor environments is tobacco smoke. The overheating of certain cooking oils release butadiene into the air, as well as the fugitive emissions from wood stoves and fireplaces.”

1,4-DICHLOROBENZENE

CANCER “is used as a fumigant for the control of moths and mildew and as a space deodorant for toilets and refuse containers. The general population is mainly exposed to 1,4-Dichlorobenzene through breathing vapors from products containing the chemical, used in the home for mothballs and toilet deodorizer blocks.”

FORMALDEHYDE

CANCER + NONCANCER “An important chemical used widely by industry to manufacture building materials and numerous household products. Sources indoors include: building materials, smoking, household products and the use of unvented, fuel burning appliances like gas stoves or kerosene space heaters. Formaldehyde is also used to add permanent-press qualities to clothing and draperies, as a component of glues and adhesives and as a preservative in some paint and coating products. In homes, the most significant source of formaldehyde is likely to be pressed wood products using urea-formaldehyde (UF) resins. Pressed wood products used indoors include: particle board (used as subflooring, shelving, cabinetry and furniture); hardwood plywood paneling (used for decorative wall covering, cabinets and furniture); and medium density fiberboard (MDF) (used for drawer fronts, cabinets and furniture tops). Medium density fiberboard contains a higher resin-to-wood ratio than any other UF pressed wood products and is generally recognized as being the highest formaldehyde-emitting pressed wood product. Formaldehyde is also released through combustion sources and in tobacco smoke” -Oven cleaning for 5.5h – released a concentration of 417 (lg/m3) -Cooking fish for 3h – 129(lg/m3)

NAPHTHALENE

CANCER + NONCANCER “used as a fumigant for the control of moths and as a space deodorizer for closets or toilet bowls. Naphthalene is very common in building materials: flooring (vinyl flooring, carpet, underpad), pressed wood materials, vinyl furniture, foam, paint, primer, coating, caulking, adhesives and many common cleaning products.”

NITROGEN DIOXIDE

NONCANCER “primary source of nitrogen dioxide in indoor environments are combustion processes, such as unvented combustion applianzed ex. Gas stoves, vented appliances with defective installations, kerosene heaters, welding and tobacco smoke.” -Unvented fireplace use for 1h - 2422 (lg/m3) -Oven cleaning for 5.5h – 1435 (lg/m3) -Cooking French fries on gas stove for 2.5h – 722 (lg/m3)

FINE PARTICLE POLLUTION

NONCANCER “fine particle pollution describes particulate matter that has 2.5 micrometers in diameter and smaller than 1/30th the diameter of a human hair. Fine particle pollution can be emitted directly or formed secondarily in the atmosphere. Example: Sulfates are a type of secondary particle formed from sulfur dioxide emission from power plants and industrial facilities.”

VOC SOURCES + HUMAN HEALTH Figure 5.13

VOC - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUND

FORMALDEHYDE

NITROGEN DIOXIDE

SULFUR DIOXIDE

SOURCE

ADVERSE HUMAN HEALTH EFFECTS

Figure 5.14

FIBER ABSORPTION OF INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS

ABSORPTION (mg of contaminant per kg of fiber)

700

WOOL NYLON

600

POLYESTER

500 400 300 200 100 0 FORMALDEHYDE

SULFUR DIOXIDE

NITROGEN OXIDES

COMPARISON OF THE ABSORPTIONS OF INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS BY CARPET PILE FIBERS SUSPENDED IN A TEST CHAMBER FOR 24 HRS AgResearch Lincoln | Christchurch, New Zealand Figure 5.15

WOOL

300

NYLON WOOL NYLON

200

100 100

0 0

HOURS 0 1 2 3 4 COMPARISON OF THE ABSORPTIONS OF INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS BY HOURS 5CARPET PILE FIBERS SUSPENDED IN A TEST CHAMBER FOR 24 HRS + 60 MINS AgResearch Lincoln | Christchurch, New Zealand

4 5 3 4 2 3 1 2 0 10 0

FORMALDEHYDE

200

FORMALDEYHDE FORMALDEYHDE (ppm) (ppm)

CONCENTRATION CONCENTRATION OF FORMALDEYHDE OF FORMALDEYHDE (ppm) (ppm)

300

Figure 5.16

NYLON WOOL NYLON

WOOL

MINUTES 20

MINUTES

CONCENTRATION OF NITROGEN DIOXIDE (ppm)

NITROGEN DIOXIDE

300 WOOL NYLON

250

200 150

100

0 0

HOURS

ABSORPTION RATE COMPARISON OF NITROGEN DIOXIDE USING WOOL AND NYLON HANKS IN A TEST CHAMBER FOR 24 HOURS WRONZ Euro Lab Ltd. | West Yorkshire, United Kingdom Figure 5.17

1-40 1-20

NYLON COTTON

1-00

RAYON

SULFUR DIOXIDE

RATE OF SORPTION | SULFUR DIOXIDE

WOOL

0-80 0-60 0-40 0-20 0 0

MINUTES

COMPARISON OF SULFUR DIOXIDE SORPTION RATES FOR WOOL, COTTON, RAYON AND NYLON FIBERS IN A TEST CHAMBER, EQUILIBRATED AT 84 F Environmental and Medical Sciences Division of UK Atomic Energy Research | United Kingdom Figure 5.18

PRECEDENTS

CLAUDY JONGSTRA LOCATION : SPANNUM, NETHERLANDS MATERIAL : 100% WOOL ROVING PROCESSING : RAISES HER OWN SHEEP, MAKES BY HAND, NATURAL DYE WITH GARDEN PLANTS FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC WALL PANELS, ART PANELS, OVERSCALE ART INSTALLATIONS Figure 6.2

Figure 6.1

Figure 6.3

Figure 6.4

Figure 6.5 86

Figure 6.6

Figure 6.7

JANICE ARNOLD LOCATION : NEW YORK, NY MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT + NATURAL WOOL ROVING PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + HAND WORK, SYNTHETIC + NATURAL DYES FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC PANELS, SPACE INSTALLATIONS, CURTAINS + ART PIECES Figure 6.8

Figure 6.9

Figure 6.10

Figure 6.11

ROBERT MORRIS LOCATION : NEW YORK, NY MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + HAND WORK, SYNTHETIC DYES FINISHED PIECES: INSTALLATION ART + SCULPTURE

Figure 6.13

Figure 6.12

Figure 6.14

Figure 6.15

Figure 6.16

Figure 6.18

90 Figure 6.17

Figure 6.19

Figure 6.20

Figure 6.21

ANNE KYYRO QUINN LOCATION : LONDON, UK MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + HAND WORK, SYNTHETIC DYES FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC WALL PANELS, ART PANELS, SOFT INTERIOR DECOR FURNISHINGS

Figure 6.22

92 Figure 6.23

Figure 6.24

DANA BARNES LOCATION : NEW YORK, NY MATERIAL : 100% WOOL ROVING, YARN + INDUSTRIAL FELT PROCESSING : BY HAND, SYNTHETIC DYES FINISHED PIECES: OVERSCALE ART, RUGS, WALL COVERING, SEATING

Figure 6.26

Figure 6.25

Figure 6.27

Figure 6.28

Figure 6.29

Figure 6.30

Figure 6.31

KATHRYN WALKER LOCATION : TORONTO, CANADA MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + SYNTHETIC DYES FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC WALL + CEILING PANELS, ART PANELS, SOFT INTERIOR DECOR FURNISHINGS Figure 6.32

96 Figure 6.33

Figure 6.34

JOSEPH BEUYS WAS LOCATED IN GERMANY MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + NATURAL COLOR FINISHED PIECES: LARGE SCALE ART INSTALLATIONS

Figure 6.36

Figure 6.35

Figure 6.37

Figure 6.39

Figure 6.38

Figure 6.40

RUFF COLLAR + RUFF ROSE PANEL FALL 2012

A MODERN VERSION OF A 17TH CENTURY RUFF COLLAR MADE WITH INDUSTRIAL FELT. THIS FORM THEN INSPIRED THE CREATION OF AN INTERIOR SKIN, ALSO USING INDUSTRIAL FELT AND SYNTHETIC DYES USING A WICKING TECHNIQUE TO CREATE FORCED DEPTH WITHIN THE FORM. THIS PANEL WAS CREATED AS AN ACOUSTIC PANEL FOR CEILING OR WALL APPLICATION. Figure 6.41

Figure 6.43

Figure 6.42

Figure 6.44

Figure 6.45

Figure 6.47

Figure 6.48

100 Figure 6.46

Figure 6.49

NATURAL DYEING

NATURALLY DYED WOOL ROVING 1. TO PREPARE NATURAL DYE: CHOP PLANT, VEGETABLE, FRUIT OR ROOT INTO SMALL PIECES. 2. BOIL ORGANIC MATERIAL IN A POT OF WATER AND SIMMER FOR AN HOUR. 3. WHILE PREPARING DYE, SOAK WOOL IN A SALT BATH FOR BERRY DYES OR A VINEGAR BATH FOR PLANT DYES. 4. DRAIN ORGANIC MATERIAL FROM DYE AND KEEP LIQUID. 5. DRAIN ALL EXCESS WATER FROM WOOL IN DYE BATH. 6. PLACE WOOL IN LUKE WARM DYE WATER ON THE STOVE AND SLOWLY BRING TO A BOIL. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STIR TOO OFTEN OR CAUSE AGITATION, AS IT WILL START FELTING. BOIL TILL THE WATER RUNS CLEAR AND DYE IS ABSORBED INTO WOOL. 7. RINSE WOOL AND HANG TO DRY

Figure 7.1

104

ARRANGE

SOAP + WATER

LAYER TULLE

AGITATE

Figure 7.2

HOW TO WET FELT : - 100% organic white linen textile - Naturally dyed wool roving - Roll of bubble wrap - 1+ yards of undyed tulle textile - Natural olive oil soap - Water

Figure 7.3

106

BLACKBERRIES

Figure 7.4

108

TURMERIC

Figure 7.5

110

SPINACH

Figure 7.6

112

BEETS

Figure 7.7

114

NATURAL DYE COMPOSITION Figure 7.8

BLACKBERRIES

TURMERIC

SPINACH

BEETS

NOTES + FURTHER RESEARCH POINTS SUCCESSFUL

- VINEGAR + SALT DYE BATHS GREATLY INCREASE COLORFASTNESS - COARSE WOOL ABSORBS DYE WELL + IS OPTIMAL FOR WET FELTING - BLACKBERRIES AND SPINACH WERE BOTH SUCCESSFUL DYES UNSUCCESSFUL

- FINE SPICES OR GRAINY ORGANIC MATERIAL IS HARD TO RINSE CLEAR OUT OF WOOL AND BLEEDS WHEN WET FELTED - BEETS DID NOT PRODUCE A DEEP RED COLOR AS EXPECTED - TRY OTHER ORGANIC OPTIONS FURTHER RESEARCH FOUND

- DYE DECREASES THE WOOLS ABSORPTION RATE, EVEN WHEN NATURAL - THEREFORE, WOOL SHOULD BE LEFT IN THE MOST NATURAL STATE POSSIBLE

116

WOOL PROTOTYPES

WOOL PROTOTYPES Figure 8.2

122

Figure 8.3

Figure 8.4

Figure 8.6 Figure 8.5

124

Figure 8.7 Figure 8.8

WET HAND FELTING NATURAL ROVING

SOFT ROSE TRANSLATION

TRANSLATION #1

CIRCULAR FELT FORM + TECHNIQUE EXPLORATION Figure 8.9

Figure 8.10

MOVING FORWARD | NATURAL UNFELTED WOOL Further research has stated that the wool fiber’s absorption capacity is best when completely untreated, in it’s natural roving state. This is true for hand-processed, toxinfree natural wool roving; an ideal design would incorporate unfelted wool fiber’s, as wet felting requires soap. Natural olive oil based soap was considered, but also proven to decrease the fiber’s absorption abilities. All further design prototypes will implement fabrication methods that require no felting, fasteners or adhesives.

126

DESIGN CONSTRAINTS

Figure 8.1

NO INDUSTRIAL FELT [TOXIC PROCESSING] - USE ONLY NATURAL ROVING NO MASS PRODUCTION OR MODULAR SYSTEM - NO INDUSTRIAL FELT OR MECH. PROCESSING NO SYNTHETIC DYES [CHEMICALS] OR NATURAL DYES - HINDERS ABSORPTION CAPACITY NO CHEMICAL BASED SOAPS [TOXINS] - IDEALLY NO WET FELTING TO SOAP REQUIRED DESIGN FOR INCREASED SURFACE AREA - IMPROVES ACOUSTIC, HUMIDITY + VOC ABSORPTION LOCAL WOOL ROVING SOURCES - ELIMINATES TRANSPORTION EMISSIONS + FUEL REQUIREMENTS SMALL-SCALE FIBER PRODUCTION - HAND PROCESSING : NO TOXINS + NO MECHANICAL ENERGY NATURAL WOOL ROVING + CUSTOM DESIGNED APPLICATIONS - UNIQUE + SUSTAINABLE MAKING - HANDMADE, CUSTOM PRODUCT WITH CONSIDERATION FOR THE ENTIRE LIFECYCLE 120

Figure 8.11

INSPIRATION | HILL COUNTRY MAPPING | CENTRAL TEXAS

Figure 8.12

Figure 8.13

Figure 8.14

INSPIRATION | HILL COUNTRY LANDSCAPE | CENTRAL TEXAS

Figure 8.15

128 Figure 8.16

Figure 8.17

Figure 8.8

HILL COUNTRY NATIVE VEGETATION | THE YUCCA.

INSPIRATION | HILL COUNTRY NATIVE VEGETATION | THE YUCCA

Figure 8.18

Figure 8.19

MAKING METHODS: EXPLORING CROCHET

Figure 8.21

Figure 8.20

Figure 8.22

130

MAKING METHODS: EXPLORING CROCHET

Figure 8.23

Figure 8.24

Start with crocheting a bowl-like form, varrying single crochet stitches once or twice through each loop. This will form tension as the piece grows, causing the wave-like edges as you continue.

Figure 8.25

Figure 8.26

132

Figure 8.29

CHRISTOPHER WOOL INSPIRED BOOK COVER

Figure 8.27

Figure 8.28

Figure 8.30

Figure 8.31 134

KEY PROPERTIES FOR A SUCCESSFUL DESIGN

LOCAL WOOL SUPPLIER - SUPPORT LOCAL ECONOMY + SMALL FARMS HAND PROCESSED WOOL ROVING - LOW ENERGY DEMAND + LOW-ZERO CHEMICAL USE COARSE FIBER WOOL - MORE DENSE TO ABSORB HIGHER QUANTITIES OF VOCs, HUMIDITY + NOISE ENERGY COARSE FIBER WOOL - LOWER COST + IN LESS DEMAND IN COMPARISON TO MERINO UNDYED + NATURAL STATE - DYEING + TOXINS HINDER ABSORPTION CAPABILITIES IN WOOL FIBER VERNACULAR-BASED DESIGN - CUSTOM DESIGN BASED ON LOCAL WOOL FIBER + INTERIOR INTERVENTIONS INCREASED SURFACE AREA - FOR OPTIMAL ACOUSTIC CONTROL, HUMIDITY REGULATION + VOC ABSORPTION HANGING VS. FLOOR APPLICATION - BASED ON THE INTERIOR CHARACTERISTICS + CLIMATE OF THE LOCATION + WOOL FIBER ATTRIBUTES. DESIGNING BASED ON THE SPECIFIC PERFORMANCE NEEDS OF THE INSTALLATION.

AFTERLIFE + DISPOSAL CONSIDERATIONS

TEXTILE RECOVERY FACILITIES TEXTILE CAN BE “PULLED” APART INTO A FIBROUS STATE AND REUSED BY THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY FOR LOW-GRADE APPLICATIONS, SUCH AS CAR INSULATION OR SEAT STUFFING.

A COMPOST PRODUCT WASTE WOOL IS USED IN AGRICULTURE AND COMPOSTING. WHEN BURRIED IN THE SOIL, WOOL IMPROVES THE WATER RENENTION AND WATER DISTRIBUTION IN SOIL ACTING AS A SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER.

136

BIBLIOGRAPHY

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THANK YOU.

TAMARA KINNEY MASTER OF INTERIOR DESIGN | SPRING 2014 THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS AT AUSTIN SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE PORTFOLIO: http://issuu.com/tamarakinney/docs/tamara_kinney_portfolio CONTACT: | E-MAIL: tamara.kinney@me.com | PHONE: 512.415.1985