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Mood + Concept
Brief: design an outerwear collection reinterpreting the concept of uniform. looking through the decades, it’s evident how women in the workplace took to stealing from the men’s wardrobe in order to be deemed respectable. So much so that menswear, in a way, became women’s working uniform. This collection seeks to revisit those outerwear numbers that are considered classic menswear staples -here intended for a female audience- by merging the two genders while at the same time keeping them clearly discernible. in representation of men, all the cliché menswear fabrics; chevron, prince of wales, pinstripe, houndstooth, tartan, gabardine; In representation of women, all their cliché embroideries: flowers, bows, ruffles, fur and feathers, here represented by tassels.
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cut embroidery texture fragmentation
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Early Ideas
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Fabric Palette
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Collection
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Trenchcoat Specifics 41
cm 13,5 4.2
9.5
cm
118
cm
cm
cm 11.3
61
cm
14.2
cm
cm 1
cm 7
3.2
cm
15.2
16
cm
cm 4
cm 31
30 cm 40
cm
cm
cm
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Shooting
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brief: inspired by the role of denim in a film of choice, we were asked to reinvent said fabric and design a collection. /lacuna/ has the film “eternal sunshine of the spotless mind� as its starting point and focuses on the core concepts of memory and lacunar amnesia. It ponders on the qualities of denim, that fades and wrinkles according to the wearer’s habits, thus holding memories and erasing itself at the same time,and mirrors the process through the use of vat dyes combined with photographic development and sunprinting techniques.
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Moodboard
Concept
memory
How happy is the blameless vestal’s lot! The world forgetting, by the world forgot. Eternal sunshine of the spotless mind! Each pray’r accepted and each wish
lacuna
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The Process: Sunprinting
As I considered how to reinterpret denim, I thought about its specific ability to hold memories. Denim is a fabric that fades, wrinkles, rips, each time in a unique way, depending on the wearer’s habits; focusing on how exposure to the sun causes indigo to dim, I thought about reversing the process, that means, imprinting a memory on fabric through the action of sunlight, a process not dissimilar to what happens on our skin when we sunbathe. Lumi Inkodye/ This solution belongs to the class of vat dyes, but unlike indigo, which needs oxygen to develop, it is fixed on fabric thanks to UV light. Exposure times may vary from 5 to 15 minutes, but all depends on the local climate and the shade one aims to achieve. In order to obtain a print, it is necessary to screen the portions of fabrics we don’t want to react, either by placing objects directly on it or by using a photographic negative.
exposed at 12 AM
exposed at 4 PM
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Textile Inspiration
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Collection
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Fabric Palette
/papier/
/làsa/
T3C01B
T3C02B
/blomster/ T3C03B
/blomster/ T3C03A
/blomster/ T3C04B
/rayé/ T3C06A
/polster/ T3L01A
/làsa/ T3C02L
/làsa/ T3C07L
/papier/ T3C01L
‘ Outfit 1
‘ Outfit 2
‘ Outfit 3
‘ Outfit 4
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brief: designing a capsule collection of three outfits reworking the corset , intended as an object of desire, a symbol of beauty and constraint. Corsets were always a brutal practice, whose use bore dreary health consequences and social disempowerment of women. For these reasons, “misplaced” turns the concept of corsetry on its head, both in terms of materials and shape. materials-wise, “misplaced” draws from the world of interiors, whereas for the shapes, the corset -like constructions, obtained by weaving twine and boning with a basic loom weaving tapestry technique, apply a fake constraint on different parts of the body. The very flexible structure of these corsets allows for a degree of comfort, and they are placed on the outside of the garments, away from the body, thus invalidating their original function by decontextualising them.
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Constraint
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Moodboard
Concept
moodboard | loungewear
concept |
Misplaced
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Material Research: Corsetry
ferretto | ricoperto
stecche | di balena
spago |
per ricoperture
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Material Research: Interiors
arredamento | Thonet
arredamento | Embroideries
tapestry | weaving
arredamento | intreccio
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Colour palette Fabric Manipulation
Sketches
palette | colore
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Collection
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Brief: explore the possible applications of dyfa, a newly -patented, not-yet-disclosed material produced by Faitplast that serves as a fastening system and aims to replace traditional fastening methods. Dyhook is a fastening for bras, meant to stand against the traditional systems such as hooks, velcro, buttons, etc. it holds many advantages, due to the qualities of dyfa, such as the comfort on the skin, to which we add the aesthetic value of invisibility, as this fastening is entirely hidden in the structure of the bra. furthermore, in terms of production, this fastening does not require any finishing operations such as stitching or top-stitching, as it’s applied on the garment through heat and pressure.
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The Product
Dyfa is a polymer-based material with a sticky surface, similar to silicone, with adhesive properties. When two sides face each other, their gripping quality holds them together. It comes with a plastic carrier, that is removed after dyfa has been applied. Application is easy and happens under a heat press. When the fastening loses gripping power, it is sufficient to rinse it with water.
/Right/ a b&w picture of Dyfa.
Unlike velcro, it does not damage the fabrics it is rubbed against; unlike buttons, it does not need cutting or sewing. Unlike hooks, it does not create a bulky volume that presses on the skin, creating distress. Unlike zippers, it is elastic, so it does not create any areas of tension. It is also easily replaceable, and does not leave any traces after it’s been removed. Because its gripping power is somewhat inferior to that of other fastenings, the size of dyfa fastenings should not be below 2 cm in length.
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The Issue of Concern
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Early Experimentation
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Finished Product
heat press T= 160°C p= 3 BAR
18 seconds
excessive bleeding
15 seconds
excessive bleeding
label
12 seconds
single-sided dyfa
excessive bleeding
double-sided dyfa
iron
6 seconds
no bleeding but hasn’t penetrated well enough
after a study on body movements, especially those of the torso, we decided to place the fastening away from the spots that are more subject to stress, and specifically, we placed it under the armpit. Furthermore, this way, every time the wearer lowers their arm, they apply a light pressure to the fastening, lowering the chances of it opening.
Since its gripping power may be inferior to that of traditionally employed hooks, we also increased the number of surfaces to which Dyfa is applied, thus making up for the exiguity of the areas we were working with. To make the opening easier, we added a label, that will also be able to accomodate the logo of the manufacturing brand.
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The cat heads a double life. in the home, it is an overgrown kitten, gazing up at its human owners. Out on the tiles it is fully adult, its own boss, a free-living wild creature, alert and self sufficient, its human protectors for the moment completely out of mind.
The switch from tame pet to wild animal and then back again is fascinating to watch. Any cat owner who has accidentally come across their pet cat outof-doors, when it is deeply involved in some feline soap opera of sex and violence, will know what I mean.
course: exploring your fashion design. U is a collection that explores the figure of the domestic cat and its two personalities, its perpetual switch from tame pet to wild feline, and the two types of women generally associated with cats: the feline woman and the cat lady.
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there is a schizoid moment of double involvement, a hesitation, and the animal runs across, rubs against its owner’s leg, and becomes the house kitten once again.
Because of the difference between domestic cats and domestic dogs, cat lovers tend to be rather different from dog lovers. As a rule, they have a stronger personality bias towards independent thought and action.
Artists like cats. Soldiers like dogs. The much-lauded group loyalty phenomenon is alien to both cats and cat lovers.
There is also a gender bias. Cat lovers show a greater tendency to be female.
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Visual References
‘ Shape
If a cat feels theatened by a large dog, it pulls itself up on fully stretched legs and at the same time arches its back in the sape of an inverted U. The function of this display is clearly to make the cat look as big as possible, in an attempt to convince the dog that it is confronting a daunting opponent. Aiding its transformation display is the fact that the animal, while stretching its back and arching its back, also erects its fur and stands broadside-on the dog.
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Sketches
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Technical Drawings
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Fabric Manipulation
/Beige calfskin leather + natural wool roving/
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Collection
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Pencil + Markers + Watercolour Pencils
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Watercolours + Pencils
‘ Pencils
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Digital Illustration: Photoshop