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MAJOR DESIGN PROJECT (THESIS)
THE DENIM PROJECT
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP
BLUES OF NATURE
THE CRAFT INTERNSHIP
WOVEN OBSOLESCENCE
THE JACKET PROJECT
TRANSFOM AND RESTRUCTURE
THE BRA PROJECT
ILLUSTRATIONS
CURRICULUM-VITAE
' I am Learner, swinging my way to self- descovery' Exploring and challenging my own- self w ith new creative ventures is something very core to me and it's a key component to self- realisation and unlocking of my potential as a designer.
OB JECT I V E
I am drawn to telling stories and exploring ways to express ideas through multiple mediums as every garment has a story to tell. I’m passionate about finding connections between nature and the everyday life, through which I draw most of my inspirations. My field of interest is western casual wear or could either be fusion wear.The aim of this portfolio is to give insight into some foundational examples of my work
WORK EXPERIENCE BI BA A PPA R EL S PV T. LTD. DE SIGN TE A M, F USION W E A R DU R AT ION : 3 Month (June 04 , 2018 - S e pt 04 , 2018) SP ORTK I NG I N DI A PV T. LTD. LU DI A NA , A SSI STA NT DE SIGN ER, M ERCH A NT DEPA RTM ENT DU R AT ION: 1 MONTH (June 03 , 2017 - Ju ly 04 , 2017 ) A M A ZON I N DI A FA SH ION W E EK S/S17 A S SI STA NT DE SIGN ER , TA N I EYA K H A N UJA DU R AT ION : 2 We ek s
CONTACT DETA I L S
+9 1-95 8227 76 69 t anu_kapoor @ ou t look
I N DUSTRY E X P OSU R E A H M EDA BA D - A RV I N D M I LL S (02 /04 / 18 - 07/04 / 18)
BA R M ER PERSONA L DETA I L S DATE OF BI RTH : 15 JU LY,19 9 7 L A NG UAGE S K NOW N: ENGL I SH, H I N DI, PU NJA BI
(07/ 1 2 / 17-15 / 1 2 / 17 )
SU R E NG O DEDUSA R V I LL AGE (CR A F T CLUSTER OF EM BROI DER ER S)
M A H E SH WA R - WOM EN W E AV E (07/ 1 2 / 17- 1 2 / 1 2 / 17 ) TH E H A N DLOOM SCHOOL BAGH PR I NT I NG
NAT IONA L IT Y: I N DI A N EDUC AT ION SK I LL S A D OBE I LLUSTR ATOR A D OBE PHOTOSHOP H A N D I LLUSTR AT IONS K N IT T I NG H A N D EM BROI DERY PR I NT DEV ELOPM ENT
2015 -Present
I N DI A N I NST IT U TE OF A RT A N D DE SIGN
2013 -2015
KU N DA N V I DYA M A N DI R
B -26 , OK H L A PH A SE 1 , N EW DELH I B . A . ( HONS .) FA SH ION DE SIGN
C I V I L L I N E S , LU DH I A NA
T H E S I S - P R O J E C T ERROR- 404
PROJECT
01
everybody and every body is different
ERROR 404 ideal construct not found
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Underneath our nice, friendly facades, there is great unease. The aim is to scratch below the surface and own the other side of the story. The concept of conscious and unconscious feelings, thoughts, and perceptions related to body and physical appearance and how clothes play an important role in that is what comprises the gist of the project. The idea is to use caricatures as a satirical form of expression of the body and in the process, defying the perceived ‘ideal construct’ of the body and emphasising on the understated elements of a garment which makes it a whole. People live their lives in bodies thus, understanding how they experience embodiment is crucial to understand the quality of life.
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Throughout life, appearance is an important part of the self-concept. We as a culture , as a society are obsessed with size and it becomes connected to our identity as people.The thing that needs to be understood is that physical beauty is superficial, once we get past the physical beauty,on the surface, there needs to be more, so much more substantial and lasting. The whole idea of the Ideal body isn’t a new concept which has gained momentum not only with the advancement of mass media, there has been several more mediums through which these visuals were generated that conveyed a strong message of the ideal image. These constituted the role of magazines, books, newspapers and more or less the role of paintings and inscriptions from the earlier times which further added up to our perception of beauty, leaving women in constant pursuit of the ‘ideal’. Reflecting on the ideals imposed upon us, the definition of the standardized body image has been evolving ever since It’s all about celebrating individuality and acknowledging the mould that all of us have been put in organically as something that makes us , US.
CONCEPT
AIM :-CREATING A SATIRE AROUND BODY IMAGE AND THE ROLE OF CLOTHING IN IT. - CHALLENGING THE CLASSICS -DEFYING THE ‘IDEAL’ PROPORTION VISUAL ILLUSION Visual Illusion is an incorrect perception of what a person is seeing. What we see does not fit with the properties of the object we are viewing. A visually perceived image that is deceptive or misleading . The aim is to defy the predictability of the nature of a garment, mocking the neglected details and overwhelming the viewer or the wearer to identify with the the minutest of the details which otherwise are understated.
55CHARACTERS CHARACTERS
Keywords: -Drama -Emphasis -Contrast -Proportions -Satire -Illusion BODY TYPE
PHYSICALITY
what defines that character?
OUTER LAYER
PERSONALITY TRAITS
-Introvert/extrovert -How emotive are they? -How do they approach power,ambition,love and change?
-Build What is the setting? -Distinguishing fetures -Prefered outfit is every character a protagonist in their -Any accessory assoicated with them own specific setting? -Distinguishing Mannerisms -Posture Sense of humor? -Their Walk -Speech Pattern
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RATIO UNDERTAKEN TO UNDERSTAND BODY TYPES: SHOULDER : CHEST: WAIST: HIP
I took inspiration from the people around me and found really interesting body proportions to start off with. Since in caricatures too, there is a live inspiration, there is exaggeration and/or over simplification around various parts of the character to bring out the exact message. it is more like exaggerating the part which you want to emphasize the most on. I took five such people with varying proportions, height,complexions and tried analysing their proportions through measurements which then helped me sketch out their basic skeleton of what their body looks like i further added layers to th to bring out the character of people.
at skeleton those
To understand the shape and form better, I further took the proportions and created an assembled and dismantled proportion figures with emphasis on the joints. This also made me realise that there could be n number of permutation and combination of a body type, since the moud that we all have been put in isnt uniform.
STAGE - 1
COLLAGE OF FEW OF THE DESIGN DEVELOPMENTS
RANGE PLAN + COLOR BOARD
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12 SPEC DRAWING OF THE ENSEMBLE
ABOUT
19
”
DETAILS
42” 42”
TYPO ON FANNY PACKS
The idea here was to depict an extreme pear shaped body type, where the chest and waist are almost same in proportion but there is high contrast in hip measurement with reference to the above parameters.
42”
42”
The idea behind the emsemble of an exaggerated hood that now turns into a dress, where the gathered hem is placed around the knee which is adding volume around the hip region. I have tried to play with the elements of a basic hoodie like exaggerating the hood and conveying the message through scaled up drawstring that looks like a tape running through the entire thing which has typo on it that conveys briefly what part of the body i am trying to talk about.
About LOOK i
SKINNY
MUCH??
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DETAILS
SPEC DRAWING OF THE ENSEMBLE
14”
15” 58”
32”
ABOUT
Through this look i am trying to depict an extremely skinny rectangular body type. The ensemble consistes of a Dungaree with a T-shirt with exaggerated sleeves. The idea behind giving a spring element on the joints is to give a feel of dismantled joints that would extend the whole proportion considering the image that we associate with skinny people that they would just fall off when touched because the general perception is that we associate a weak, lousy, and almost a dead look with a skinny person. The intentional play with the fall of dungaree’s flap is to depict what is going on inside the person with reference to what is generally assumed about him/ her and taking a dig at skinny shaming.
About LOOK Iii
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“THE PERFECT POISE”
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sq u mo eez re e i !!!! t !!
IF T G A “ THE M O R F ? ?‛ ‛ T S A P
DETAILS
SPEC DRAWING OF THE ENSEMBLE
15”
16 ABOUT
23”
The Look has been created to take a dig at the ‘ideal’ body type which is almost a size 0 according to societal standards. The body type being talked in here is a normal pear shaped which is almost considerd to be an ‘ideal’ construct. But the emphasis is placed around the waist to comment upon the structure that used to be achieved through corsets , the compression and boundation of the body to bring to a scaled down version of it. To create an emphasis around the waist, i have extended the shoulder and flared the trouser so that the contrast becomes visible and the focus goes on the waist of the wearer.
About LOOK IV
DON‛T
STAR
YOU WHAT N AT LOOKI ?? HUH??
17
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SPEC DRAWING OF THE ENSEMBLE
ABOUT The look has been designed for an hourglass body type with an emphasis on the bust and the hip area. The typo also takes a dig around the slangs and comments being raised around bust sizes and how it is mocked. The look consists of a top and a skirt with exaggerated sides.
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SPEC DRAWING OF THE ENSEMBLE
DETAILS
ABOUT The Look is basically created to depict an inverted triangle body type but with contrasting proportions than how we associate masculinity with. Broad shoulder but with extreme lean or slendrical body is what is being depicted here.T hats the reason why it is more like an androgenous look to also depict a male/female with quite a strong feminine/masculine side to it. I have kept the entire look black with highlights of colors which are running through the collection so that it blends the whole thing together.
About LOOK ii
INDUSTRY-INTERNSHIP - B IB A APP ARELS PVT, L TD. -FUSI ON WEAR
PROJECT
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As a part of our academic curriculum, we were supposed to do an industry internship wherein we had to work under a brand or a designer, so as to get an exposure to the industry. The aim was to understand a brand's ideology and apply the knowldege that we, as design students, have been acquiring all this while. I interned at BIBA apparels pvt. ltd. wherein I worked in the contemporary fusion-wear line . My job as an intern was to develop motifs for the SS/19 collection. Through the task, i got to understand the importance of size,scale and proportion.
INTRODUCTION Biba Apparels is an Indian fashion brand founded by Meena Bindra in 1988 . The word “Biba� is a Punjabi word for endearment for a pretty girl. The design of the new logo is inspired by a peacock feather - an intrinsically Indian motif, Together, the symbol and the typography are expressed in a bright, vivid red colour to place the associations with fashion, celebration and womanhood.
PRODUCT RANGE SKD | (SALWAR KAMEEZ DUPATTA RANGE)
Ethnic, defined by an indian crafted look divided in different theme-based collections.
M&M | (MIX AND MATCH RANGE)
A range of formal/semi-formal contemporary dresses.
BIBA GIRLS | (FOR 2 yrs. -16 yrs. Old girls)
Consists both ethnic and contemporary collections.
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TOPS • KURTAS Types of Fit:Asymmetric • A COMPLETE ENSEMBLE OF KURTAS Flared AND DIFFERENT BOTTOMS Straight Anarkali Kalidar • DUPATTAS A-line Types: Solid • KURTIS Dyed Type of Fit : Straight (midthigh Printed length) Crinkled Woven Design • Tunics: Types of Fit: Asymmetric Straight A-line • DRESSES: Types of Fit: Asymmetric Flared Anarkali
BOTTOMS • KNITTED CHURIDARS • PANTS: Type of fit: Straight • PALAZZO Type of fit: Flared Straight • SKIRT Type of fit: Flared • SALWAR
P R O J E C T - 1 M O T I F - D E V E L O P M E N T P H A S E I : R E S E A R C H
What is a motif? What is its significance in a story? Does it create a mood or a composition? When does it become balanced? What is a balanced motif? When is it complete in itself? When does a motif become a pattern?
24 TYPES-OF-MOTIF-LAYOUT (Research work)
• Side layoutThe motifs in this layout are placed close to touch each other, but are separated by ground area, Seeming to float on a plain background • Half drop layout Each motif of a given size will not come just straight across to the next repeat, but will move up or down half of one repeat in the vertical direction • Border layou t In the construction of borders patterns, translation (repeat of motifs in one direction-vertically or horizontally or diagonally), reflection (mirror image of the motif), rotation (repetition around a fixed point) and glide reflection (repeat of motifs in combination of translation and reflection) are followed. • All over layou tIt has balanced motifs that recur irregularly within the repeat unit. The motifs are connected in some way, forming a network that covers the entire design plane
C O LO R C O M BI N A TI O N 2 : E MB R OI DE R Y PATCH U SE D I N YOKE ON A KU RT A FOR SS1 9
P R O J E C T - 2 Y O K E - D E V E L O P M E N T G Y P S Y - C O L L E C T I O N
IT E RATI ONS FOR YOK E PAN E L
COMBINATION OF THREADS GIVEN TO WORK WITH
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COLOR WAY 1
COLOR WAY 2
Fol low i ng are some of the mot i fs that i designe d for some of the gar ments of S/S19 col le ct ion .
I A LSO MA DE SO ME MO TI FS FO R I N D I E MIC K EY C O LL E C TI O N F O R S/ S 1 9 MIX AN D MA TC H C O L L E C TI O N
P R O J E C T - 3 R A N G E - D E V E L O P M E N T S M A R T - C A S U A L - K U R T A S S / S 1 9
A COLLECTION OF SMART CASUAL KURTAS FOR A/W 19 BRIEF: • To design 5-6 Smart casual Kurtas taking reference from their Core Kurta collection and using the elements which they usually use in their silhouettes. • Focus on print and embroidery detailing KEYWORDS: • • • • •
Bo ld y e t Fr a g i l e Simple y e t Cl a ssy Linear o utl i n e s Panels Unu s u a l pr i n t/ m oti f placeme n t
DESIGN-DEVELOPMENT
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P R O J E C T - 4 P R I N T - D E V E L O P M E N T P E R S O N A L - P R O J E C T
During my internship. I got to develop motifs and khakha for various details. While I was hand drafting the designs, I also tried converting those designs digitally as prints. This isn't my area of expertise but I surely enjoyed the whole process of print development both manually and digitally. For that I also took guidance from the textile designers at BIBA, who helped me in acqu iring the basics. So, to carry forward my learnings, I made a range of prints which were first hand drawn and then converted them as digital prints.
MOTIF-AND-PRINT DEVELOPMENT-PROCESS
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PRINT-SWATCHES
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P R O D U C T - C A T E G O R Y D
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Th e p ro j e ct a i m s t o e n h a n ce t h e kn o wle d ge o f t h e m o s t ve rs a t i le a n d s o ugh t a ft e r fa b ri c t h a t h a s a t wi ll we ave a n d wa rp d ye d i n i n d i go , t h e wo rld kn o ws t h i s fa b ri c a s De n i m. Duri n g t h e p ro j e ct , we go t t o i n t e ra ct wi t h d e n i m e xp e rt s wh o h e lp e d us un d e rs t a n d t h e fa b ri c a n d i t s co mp o n e n t s , wh i ch ga ve t h e o p p o rt un ity t o ge t t h e i n -d e p t h kn o wle d ge a b o ut d e n i m , p ro d uct ra n ge s , re cycla b i li t y a n d s us t a i n a b i li t y. Th e p ro j e ct wa s m e n t o re d b y Mr. Sh a ni Hi ma n s h u, Cre a t i ve Di re ct o r : 11.11/e le ven e le ve n & Ko rra .
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P R O D U C T - C A T E G O R Y C
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Th is was a hy pothet ical proje ct wherei n we were g iven a cert ai n brand and we were t o design a garment for it ke e pi ng i n m i nd the brand ide olog y and ethos . I was su ppose d t o design a t op for H&M, ke e pi ng i n m i nd the t rend s and the si l houet t e that it cou ld possibly do . Th is was the f i rst garment that I made as a fash ion st udent .
DE SIGN DEV ELOPM ENT
TR EN D FOR EC A ST ( WG SN )
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D E T A I L S O F - T H E G A R M E N T
TH E EM BROI DERY PATCH I NSPI R ED F ROM TROPIC A L L E A F.
BACK-V I EW OF TH E TOP F R AY ED ED GE S WA S USED A S A H IGH L IGHT TA K EN F ROM TR EN D ST U DY
H A N D -EM BROI DER ED FA BR IC BU T TONS
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P R O D U C T - C A T E G O R Y H A N D W O V E N - M U F F L E R
PROJECT
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Any linear material holds in itself, a huge potential of being manipulated and harnessed to lead towards form and detail. The brief was to understand and explore stretch-ability and flexibility of various yarn techniques like knitting, knotting and crocheting. Leading to a finished handwoven product. This involved taking an inspiration to derive to the form and colors of the product.
"Th e s to ry o f wh ol e n e ss be gins with br ok e n . "
An aged surface became my inspiration, the whole idea was to look at ageing as a process of appreciating imperfections. I worked upon the shadow of the tea sieve and developed a pattern out of it.
This was further taken forward and converted into a muffler by using a combination of weaving and crochet technique. I used a woven fabric and attached the surfaces onto its edges to complete its look as a muffler.
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P R O D U C T - C A T E G O R Y E
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Probing further into indigenous textiles and clothing traditions and local identities, the project tends to set a context of understanding the finer nuances of craft practices and analysing the indian approach to clothing. Worked with the craft cluster in Barmer, Rajasthan, who belonged to meghawal community from dedusar. The idea was to get primary exposure to document the crafts of the region and to understand the indigenous techniques of the region, embroidery being the primary focus and develop a range of ideas for ethnicwear.
Embroidery
samples
The color story has been inspired from the colors of a peacock, set against the c olor of the sand. So the idea was to work on the contrast being created by the colors Blue and green when set against sand's color .
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Worked with the craft cluster in Barmer, Rajasthan, who belonged to meghawal communi ty from dedusar. The idea was to get primary exposure to document the crafts of the region and to understand the indigenous techniques of the region, embroidery being the primary focus.
Final Garment
FABRIC : LINEN PIPING FABRIC: CHANDHERI EMBROIDERY DETAIL : SUF + CHAIN STITCH POCKET OPENING DETAIL : BUTTONHOLE STITCH
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P R O D U C T - C A T E G O R Y J
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The aim of the brief was to make a strong base for us to understand the importance of construction of a garment where we were supposed to attempt the entire process through reverse engi neering, where the process need to be understood, analysed and traced backwards from the final outcome. After analysing an existing jacket, we had to take out an element from there and use that as a detail in the jacket that we were supposed to design.
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P R O D U C T - C A T E G O R Y W
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The Aim of the project is to question the existing paradigm of a garment and the body. The project approaches with a precise sense of dissection and engineering. Looking at garment as a form being derived by a shape along with an oxymoron which is providing it a context. The Idea was to focus on the technicality of the form that revolves around the body. If the garment is created with both the body and the mind, we also need to understand how we can ‘fashion’ two-dimensional and the three-dimensional ways of handling shape, form and surface which is the gist of the project.
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P R O D U C T - C A T E G O R Y F A S H I O N - I N S T A L L A T I O N
PROJECT
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The project was intended to talk about the stereotypes that exist within the society revolving around female body. The project was mentored by Mr. Piyush Suri, Creative Director of Handmade in Britain. He headed a short project which was all about unleashing and breaking all the comfort levels in which we have been living and thinking about things around us. To be more aware and understand ourselves and surroundings better, Be it a social issue, at a larger level and our reaction on such things. To be more vocal of what we see and what we feel. This was a group project, so we created an installation with the context of a bra and a prison wherein we tried to depict the stereotypes restrictions and thoughts surrounding a Bra.. The installation was made in a small room to give a look of a prison where we hung a dummy being trapped in chains and locks. We did graffiti with the common slangs being used to describe boobs and body image as a whole.
I L L U S T R A T I O N S
PROJECT
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Fol low i ng are some of the i l lust rat ions that I have done for my Graduat ion Project . The concept of consc ious and unconsc ious feel ings, thoughts and percept ions related to body and physical appearance and how clothes play an important role in it is what compr ises the gist of the project . The Idea is to use caricat ures as a sat irical form of ex pression of the bodyand in the process def y ing the 'Ideal ' constr uct of the body and emphasising on the understated elements of a garment.
THE P E R F E C T LY
I MPER F ECT
EX ISTENCE
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E P I T O M E - O F - F L A W S
S O M E - U N E X P L A I N A B L E - F A C E T S - T O - O U R - S U R V I VA L
' BE I NG ' IS STR A NGE
B U T B E AU T I F U L T O O !
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U N DE R N E AT H OU R N IC E F R I E N DLY
FAC A D E S , T H E R E I S G R E AT U N E A S E .