Biscochito Queen Cleo

Biscochito queen Cleo Cisneros

LEGACY CONTINUES THROUGH FAMILY TIES BY KATHRYN ‘KATHY’ CÓRDOVA

FILE PHOTO

Clorinda ‘Cleo‘ Cisneros makes biscochitos in her home in 2014.

Sometimes, holiday meals feature a special entrée handed down throughout the generations. These family heirlooms include recipes once used by grandmas or other influential women.

Such is the case with the Cisneros family of El Prado. The late matriarch, Cleo Cisneros, learned baking skills from her baker-farmer father Cirilo Medina who raised turkeys for the family and their Thanksgiving meals. Cleo enjoyed using her culinary skills and eventually retired from a career in the lunchrooms of the Taos Municipal Schools. Local residents often referred to Cleo as “the biscochito queen.” If one visited her, she always offered her guests a beverage, biscochito or another goodie she prepared.

Fortunate neighbors received the privilege of “the traveling tin,” a covered container full of biscochitos which, if returned, reappeared to the neighbor once again full of cookies. The activity continued until Cleo’s death. In the past, Cleo Cisneros received top honors in Taos Herb Company’s biscochito contest.

Didi Cisneros, Mary Montoya and the late Fem Cisneros, Cleo’s daughters, helped their mother prepare Christmas meals and food for other special occasions. Didi, a retiree of Albertson’s deli, worked in the business for 20 years.

“I didn’t bake there,” Didi said. Her duties involved wrapping, pricing, taking orders, writing on decorated cakes and customer service. Didi Cisneros shared a family culinary Christmas recipie in this article.

“While we helped Mom in the kitchen, my brothers Raymond, (the late) Martin and Chris helped my dad (the late Cristóbal) with the cows, wood and other outdoor work.”

Didi Cisneros described the holidays as, “Always food.” Christmas fare included posole, chicos, tamales, salad, sweet rice, pumpkin or apple empanaditas, prune pies, homemade bread, and biscochitos. Cleo also made what locals term “chile de velorio” or chile served at traditional wakes or funerals. Her particular variety includes red chile with shredded pork. “Everything was homemade, not purchased,” added Didi.

Regarding Cleo’s biscochito specialties, Didi said, “The family will not share her recipe. Even if we did share, how do you translate, ‘A handful of this and a handful of that, or a pinch of something’?

“Once, her story and recipe appeared in print in Better Homes and Gardens magazine,” Didi continued.“Unfortunately, someone at the magazine altered her recipe to include the ingredients the staff member wanted. The alteration included the addition of lemon juice and wine, something mom never did. She was disappointed. After her death, people asked for her biscochito recipe, but we did not provide it. Some things are meant just for family, and this is one of those things.”

The family tradition included a large Christmas Eve gathering of parents, children, in-laws and grandchildren at 6 p.m. In recent years, the family has grown, but everyone attempts to continue the tradition.

“Mom liked to celebrate on Christmas Eve so everyone could also spend time with the in-laws. If anyone wanted to visit on Christmas Day, this was fine, because there was always so much food,” said Didi. After the meal, the family gathered in the living room to open gifts. “Everyone bought gifts for everybody in the family. Usually, this occurred around 8 p.m. The recipients opened their gifts one at a time for all to see. This took quite a bit of time, sometimes until midnight. During the opening of presents, we’d drink, enjoy each other’s company, laugh and take pictures,” Cisneros said.

As sisters Didi Cisneros and Mary Montoya prepare the biscochitos as a tribute to their late mother, they appreciate their family traditions. Cleo Cisneros’ recipe remains with her family, but cookbook author Liddie Martinez happily shares her own recipe from her publication The Chile Line-Historic Northern New Mexico Recipes. Enjoy this delicious food, also known as the Official State Cookie. This issue of Taos Aglow includes a recipie on page 25 from Martinez’s cookbook.

Biscochitos are also known as the Official State Cookie. Here, Patricia Rael, past winner of Taos Herb company's Biscochito Competition, makes her award winning cookie in Talpa.

FILE PHOTOS

Liddie Martinez’s Bizcochito* recipe

MAKES 8-10 DOZEN DEPENDING ON THICKNESS

INGREDIENTS

3 cups lard, at room temperature 2 ½ cups sugar 3 eggs 1 ½ cups cold milk or 1 can evaporated milk 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon whole anise seed, crushed 1 tablespoon vanilla Flour, about 4-5 pounds Bench flour Cinnamon sugar, for dusting

INSTRUCTIONS

Caution: Do not substitute ingredients

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Cream lard, sugar and eggs until light and fluffy. Add the rest of the ingredients (except flour) in order until well mixed. Then add the flour a little at a time, mixing with both hands, on a floured counter or table until the dough no longer sticks to your hands. A kitchen helper is essential for this or it will get messy. Cut the ball of dough into quarters and roll out a section at a time, using bench flour, to about ½-inch thickness or less. Cut out fleur-de-lys* (or other) shapes with cookie cutters, transfer to sheet pans and dust tops with cinnamon sugar. Bake for 12-15 minutes. Cool on racks.

Visit pajaritopress.com for more information on Liddie Martinez’s work.

*Note: This is how Liddie spells biscochito and fleur de lis in her cookbook.