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Joyous Durga Pujo

By Praneetha Durbhakula, Special thanks to Sweta Basu

"You know what's more annoying than a Bengali gushing about the food they are going to eat? It's a Bengali gushing about the food they are going to eat during Durga Puja. Good food is what fuels throngs of Bengalis throughout these seven days of endless Pandal hopping, adda, and some more gastronomic adventures People in Europe have summer romances, and Bengalis have Pujo romances that start with eye contact at the Pandal and end with a friend consoling one with some rosogolla on Bijoya Dashami.

Bengalis don't take their religion half as seriously as their food, and hence our relationship with our goddess is not one fraught with fear but with tender love In Bengal, the goddess arrives with her four children in tow- she's here for a vacation, and she's here to allow us to take the vacation that (almost) all Bengalis plan their year around. She's a daughter, she's a benevolent mother, she's a friend, and once she arrives, all we can say is- 'Maa eshecchen' (Maa has arrived)." - Sweta Basu

MAHALAYA

"Mahalaya" marks the beginning of the festival. They believe that on this day, Maa Durga with her clan (Maa Saraswathi, Maa Lakshmi, Ganesha and Karthikeya) come to the earth from Mount Kailash to witness the celebrations. Interestingly, rituals are similar to welcoming their newlywed daughter on her first visit back to her parent's home. It is believed that Shakthi (Maa Durga) took the form of "Kali" to destroy Mahishasura after 10 days of the war as all the gods and goddess provided their potent weapons to Maa Kali to finish her task.

Pandals are inaugurated with different themes all over the city. The dazzling lights and lamps, grand stages, a wide variety of street food, famous Dhak sound, bhog – a traditional dish served as prasad in pandals, Dhununchi dance and women in their traditional Laal-paar-saada sarees (White and crimson bordered) and covered in red vermillion with joy on their faces are the main highlights of the festival.

"Bengalis wait in line for hours to see pandals that can look anything like the Burj Khalifa to the Vatican City. Some pandals have concept art that can rival ones kept at MOMA. Even the Durga idols get a makeover to fit the theme. We are purists as far as the aloo in our biriyani is concerned, but not about our religion. This festival is beyond all that- it's about art, it's about togetherness, it's about homecoming." - Sweta Basu

IDOL-MAKING

It is the love and devotion of “Kumortuli” (Kumor-Potter Tuli- locality) legacy of idol-making over 300 years that pours more than the art of mixing sand and clay in making the supreme form of appearance to ward off any evil. The main components include bamboo, straws, husk and Puniya mati (a mix of mud from the bangs of the holy river Ganga, cow dung, cow urine and mud from the brothel, also called Nishiddho pallis). The wooden frame that forms the base for the idols is worshipped, and the process of making idols begins around July, considered “Paata Puja”. The final ritual is called Chokku Daan, when artisans paint the eyes of Maa Durga on Mahalaya.

IMPORTANT DAYS & RITUALS

SHASTI(6th Day) :
On the 6th day of the Festival, people welcome the Goddess with Kokum Leaves, and she is worshipped as Katyayani.

SAPTAMI(7th Day):
On this day, “Kalparamba” is done, i.e., people take the Sankalp (a resolution to perform pujas and practices for the coming days), followed by Navpatrika puja and start Maa Durga Puja, which includes praying to various deities, including Kartikeya, Saraswathi, Lakshmi, and Lion (the vahana).

ASTAMI & NAVAMI (8th and 9th Day):
The last 24 Minutes of Ashtami and the First 24 minutes of Navami are considered “SONDHI ” In this puja, Devi is worshipped as the Chandi avatar, where 108 lamps are lit as Sondhi Aarthi. People clap and dance to Dhak beats, followed by distributing the Bhog. Navami proceeds with homa and ends with Aarthi along with DhunuchiNaach ( Bengali incense burner used for ritualized worship dance).

Credit: Monojit Mondal, Nat Geo Traveller India

BIJOYA DASHAMI (10th day):
The day is considered victorious; on this day, Devi begins her journey back to Kailash. “Sindoor Khela” is the main highlight of the day, where Married women offer farewell with betel leaf, sweets, and vermillion to the deli and apply sindoor to each other.

"Irrespective of one's paycheque, Bengalis throng the roads of their city, town, and village to indulge in merrymaking. And when all is said and done, when the fairy lights are removed from the streets, when the smoke and aroma of the 'dhunuchis' subside, and the goddess has become one with the water after bisarjan- even though hearts get heavy, we hold on to hope by reminding ourselves, 'Ashchhe bochhor abar hobey' (We will do it all again, the next year)." - Sweta Basu

Credit: Gaganendranath Tagore, Image Source
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