ALM0RA DIARY
Travelogue and Visual Journey through photographs and illustrations
By Tarun Arya
Introduction and Day one
Almora
Introduction A hill station in the lap of the magnificent Himalayas. Word magnificent I am using only after seeing it through my naked eyes which no camera make your imagine. Its aura is so bright that I forgot to click it as I did it later but with a very servile manner. The place is full with scenic beauty but only mandate is be there and feel.... The Almora used to be capital of Kumaon region of Uttarakhand under the king Som Chand in 16th century. Later this place came under the path of many great personalities like Mahatma Gandhi, Rabindranath Tagore, sumitranandan pant, Pt. Udai Shankar, Guru dutt, Sir Ronald Ross. The people like George Harrison, Bob Dylan, and Cat Stevens also been here while Actress Uma Thurman spent large time of her childhood. Almora been exempt from permanent residents for a long time before the water supply began. Nowadays this small town is chaotic but only within the area of 5 km after that nature is still blooming like before. The place is full of hotels and restaurants. One can stay here and easily reach the destinations around by using local convince. The region is so big that cannot be include in a small book. In this book rather than talking about the facts more since the era is full of information resources I will express my journey through my own words and pictures.
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n A Jour 25th
I planned my trip in Myself from chaos of the I chose Almora as my painting and illustration been here for some time and picturesque Poems and this place. I had already visit and some days I thinking. But as all said and to be a journey of self search. this place when I heard this place twice. The peace and many to come here since register my name
April
April end to save city for some time. destination out of my love of and had heard that Tagore composed his many lyrical paintings in prepared a list of places to kept reserve for my creative done I knew that it was going I could imagine the beauty of that Swami Vivekananda visited beauty of this place has drawn a long time and I was going to in this list also.
There was no direct train or flight for Almora so I decided to take a train to Delhi, halt there in preparation and then leave for Almora. I left Mumbai on the 25th of April and reached Delhi the next day.
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The Rajdhani Express was on time and I was at New Delhi railway station. The clock indicating the time was 8.30 a.m. and it took 30 minutes to reach me home.
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26th April Once home, by the time I had taken my tea, there was only half an hour left for the online Tatkal booking to close. I tried my luck once again even after having failure history because of busy online traffic. I tried 3 times to open the IRCTC website and now it was only 10 minute left for the Tatkal ticket booking and in my fourth attempt I successfully booked the Shatabdi ticket. The day before leaving for Almora I went shopping to prepare for my journey. Among other stuff the most important things I bought was colours, papers and some film roles as I still love to use my manual SLR. In order to catch the train at 6.15 am. from Anand vihar railways station I would have to get up at 4 am.
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Since I had already packed all my stuff and cross checked it twice. 13
I allowed myself to wake up at 4.30 a.m. It took 30-40 minutes to get ready. I skipped breakfast as Shatabdi Express serves morning tea and breakfast. The taxi arrived before time and I was all set to go. So at 4.45am. I left for the station. I was at the station within hour’s time. The train had arrived on platform no. one. I boarded the train and settled down.
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27th April
Quite opposite to the sweet whisper of my mothers wake up call, the train horn shouted and told me it was 6.15am. waking me from the sweet nap that had kissed my eyes for a while. It was signal of train departure. And now the mechanical creature was running on the iron track by tapping his hundreds of feet in a rhythmic sound among the massive fields.
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The journey was comfortable as always with a little extra charges than general coach. I paid Rs. 700 for the Shatabdi train while in general coach it was less than Rs. 200.
And with an unexpected punctuality the train registered its attendance at Kathgodam railway station at 11.50am. I always feel uneasy at crowed stations where there’s always a fear of missing some luggage or stuff but this one was peaceful.
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Rickshaw stand was 50 meters from the platform. Chaos and competition among Rickshaw drivers can never change, no matter which city you go. Finally one driver won by agreeing with Rs. 60 to take me to the bus station where I was to catch a bus for Almora.
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I After 30 minutes I reached Bus depot. It was again a window seat like in the previous transport. I skipped the idea of taking Jeep as I didn’t found it safe and also they filled passengers inside like a chicken carriage. It was very easy to get on the small bus for Almora which is called “Kamu”.
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The cold misty air coming from Himalayas told me that we are about to enter the snaking roads of hilly region and I was there before I could give another thought.
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Bus driver was confidently swung the bus on narrow roads. If someone would have told me that these snake like roads are inspiration of modern roller coaster I definitely had believed it because of the unexpected turns.
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The roads were fresh and neat not because of the punctual municipality but isolation from much human interaction. On green textured canvas the white and light gray patches were giving evidence of human existence in natures shade and telling that we hilly people are more active in social environmental activity than your air conditioned room conferences on ecology.
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On the left side of the road was dense forests of Chir (Pine tree) standing like audience of a car race. The wind was still pricking my face with its cold partials but my heart and eyes were not letting me shut the window glass. But who can win with the strong, pure, icy wind so I had to close the window glass. I was brave enough to kept little bit of it open to have sweet fragrance of pure and icy wind.
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After three and half hours of live cinema of natures landscapes the bus reached on the roof of Almora. The great Himalayas was right in front of my eyes peeping out from milky clouds. Almora city was crowded with many identical characters of the region. Old men with Gandhi cap, women with bright sarees, and girls with red cheeks all were looking innocent until I was going to have further encounters.
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As it was April, the summer pushed peoples from hot cities to cold places. Almora is an easily reachable destination within twelve hours of journey from the many northern parts of India. I found a hotel for Rs. 500 a day with sufficient facilities like hot water comfortable bed and a nice view.
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The colors of a rainbow have merged into each other in the evening tiered sky. From my window there were two contrasting views below was the busy life of town and above the calm Himalayas sitting on the green carpet of trees in meditating mode. Intercom was there and I ordered Tea. A young boy came with the tea and asked me about dinner. He told me the hotel serve vegetarian food only. Since it was a tiring journey I wanted to have it in the hotel only. It was 9.15pm after dinner and I went to the bed.
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28th april
After the previous day’s long journey and heavy food I slept early after a long time and now I was seeing that mighty saint is still meditating up there.
I had already ordered tea by intercom and it didn’t took more than 15 minutes to come in my hand.
Holding cup of tea and cigarette in my left hand I was gazing towards the mountains thinking about the white smoke coming from a house far away. It seemed that was the source of the whole dreamy, foggy sheet covering the mountains.
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Chitai golu temple
I prepared to leave and skipped breakfast as my stomach still seemed full because of the heavy food last night. On top of my list was the ancient temple of Chitai golu which is famous for its unique wish making tradition. It was only 8 k.m. away from Almora town.
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Locked the room and open my camera so that I capture the colors of every moment.
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The hotel boy told me that I will get a taxi from the opposite side of the hill called “Dharanaula” and to reach there I have to pass through “Lala Bazaar”. It was a very old market with wooden buildings with decorative with ornamental carving.
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It took 15 minutes to find the narrow street leading to Dharanaula. The street was quite narrow with insufficient light and two person can not cross it together. The dark tunnel like street where all figures becomes an shades of black.
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The way was on the steep of the mountain where both sides were flanked by a busy market with small and big shops.
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After 500 metre I reached there and this was another side of Almora with less chaos. After checking one by one I could find one sharing jeep which (luckily) had one seat left. Buses go on scheduled timing but local jeeps you can find easily during limited period.
Somehow I manage to fit inside the taxi as it was already filled with people. Right after I get in he started the jeep to destination. I found a jeep which was filled with innocent looking faces. It was window seat. People there looking at me surprisingly as I was holding camera in my hands.
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I could see another side of the hill where people have painted their homes with different colors giving landscape a look of miniature toy houses.
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After 20 minutes of 10km journey I was at Chitai Temple, at the end of a small market. I gave the driver Rs.30. Although the area was small, it was full of restaurants and shops. Right outside of the temple were many shops with the worship goods.
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I chose to buy some Agarbatti and flowers to offer at the temple from a small shop with an temporary setup. He gave me one Thali (plate) with the worship goods and told me beware of monkeys inside as they will try to snatch the Plate.
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Leaving my shoes on the left side outside temple near a water tank I entered a narrow shade completely surrounded by bells and I was in the temple now.
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The temple pillars were surrounded by the bells and letter of wishes. This wish making tradition was quite surprising for me. Among many hand written letters I saw notary papers and marriage invitation cards also.
The divine atmosphere created misty smoke from Dhuni (Holy fire place) and rhythm of tambour were soulful.
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The temple was full of monkeys. Suddenly one monkey caught my attention on the porch of the temple gazing at my plate and next moment he jumped over the plate of a newly wed couple. They were probably visiting the temple after their marriage as it’s a tradition here.
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Golu devta is a local God of kumaon region who used to be a king. He played a very powerful role in Kumaun. He known for his justice loving nature and to be able recall events before his birth. Inside temple there was old stone sculpture of Golu devta and a small wooden craft horse which is his ride.
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After offering Coconut, Bhog and expected dakshina to priest I came out from another door. Priest left pouch of oil and raw rice in the plate and told me to offer these at the Bhoot temple which was right outside the entrance of the main temple. The Bhoot is known as Gana of Golu devta. Temple courtyard has a Devi Temple also on the upper side. It is considered to be a must visit for all who come to the temple.
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Like every temple in Uttarakhand you can see the Dhuni. I was sitting near the Dhuni where people taking away ash considered as pure Vibhuti which they were also putting on their forehead.
The ghee and chandan (Sandal wood) fragrance of blue-grey smoke from Dhuni and copper bells chanting the wishes of devotes in their own language. A non believer may find these sounds monotonous but they were not mechanical at all.
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I wished to read some letters hanging there but I it felt wrong as a wish always should be secret. Some words which my eyes could not ignore was one letter of pray for passing in exams. The handwriting was evident that it was wish of a innocent kid. I moved ahead from the temple.
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Jageshwar temple
Believer is the most powerful person in this world and God has always created by him, in physical or mental form and..... Just then the sound of a taxi intercepted my thoughts for a good reason as this was going to my next destination Jageshwar temple. The taxi was already full but the driver was still convincing me to get in somehow and settle in between but I wasn’t feeling safe as it was overloaded.
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Suddenly one the shopkeeper called me shouting - “Sir wo roadways ki bus aa gai hai usme chale jao�. It was a lucky day the Roadways buses are far better and more comfortable than jeep. One seat was for one person and only fare only Rs. 30 which is less than a jeep. Conductor told me to get off at Panuanaula and from there I will have to catch another transport to cover 10 km further.
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After one and half hour bus reached the Panulanaula. It was a small market area but seemed little busy may be because it was 11 a.m. in the morning. After I had tea in local tea shop I started searching for next taxi to Jageshwar. I saw many taxis for Jageshwar but all were over loaded.
Just for little amount of money these driver tried to fit 12 people in the capacity of 8 only. People of the region have no option neither the drivers because of high diesel prices and low amount of fares. In between the conversation with one local told me there are many other places I can visit nearby But I need to book my own taxi as these places are situated on off treks.
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The friendly negotiation with many drivers end with Rs. 1000 for all the destinations, I mentioned and return to Almora. It was a Alto car. After 20 minutes on swinging track, I found myself in between the Deodar forest where light was very dramatically casting in a rows. It reminded me the science fact that the only strait lines in the nature are rays of sun and I could see it clearly piercing the heart of darkness in the early morning. Before I.5km to Jageshwar it was Dandeshwar mahadev temple, I will visit it on return, with this thought I reached at a small valley surrounded by dense Deodar forest.
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I was in Jageshwar now with a full enthusiasm and eagerness. Its pristine structures, valley surrounded by deodar trees and small market with old wooden buildings took me 100 years back. The sudden peak in my imagination could sensate the atmosphere of that golden era when people had gratified stomach and souls and the sound of woods was evident like todays noisy mechanical creatures.
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Jageshwar has 125 big small temples dedicated to different idols where one main temple with jyotirlinga. There is a big debate on considering it among 12 Jyotirlingas in India. It was built in 9th century according to archaeological survey but some debater says it was actually renovated at that time not build.
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Whatever the conclusion it himself speaks it all with its old antique structure and solid rocks.
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The main Jyotirlinga was covered with wet cloth and seems like a completely alive object which was being feed with mild and fruits. I visited many temples but the 2-3 temples has Idols as all other were shifted from temple to the ASI museum nearby.
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The old broken bell hanging in the temple was giving proof that for hundreds of years thousand devotes and pilgrimages going to the kailash mansarover also visited here, as it was on the way of it.
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Chandika and kuber temple
I came out of Jageshwer temple and driver told me that there are
Chandika and kuber temple
situated on the other side of a water stream on 100 meters. A small bridge over the small stream was build to reach the temple courtyard. A very old priest with few reaming tooth was sitting there.
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The wrinkles on the face of the old priest there justifying the decades he been through. Winning every freezing winter with the hope of serving his family as much as he could.
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He told that this temple is build during parallel period with the Jageshwar temple. He said he is here since he was born and serving in this temple. There were only 2 small temples but work of carving was very detailed and precise.
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Brahma Kund
He told me in this stream there is Brahma Kund which is must bath or visit before entering the Jageshwar Dham (temple). There were many small bathrooms around the pond. As I have already visited the temple I went to the Kund (pond) which was naturally formed like a bowl. The water was fresh and drinkable.
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One man told me the area around it’s a Shamshan Ghat (Cremation ground) also, after I asked him about the remains of burned woods.
The unbreakable connection between the life and death served by the small stream was very evident there and valued. The Temple was source of hope for both for living souls and passengers to unknown.
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Archaeological Museum Jageshwar
After having samosa and tea of pure buffalo milk I head towards the Archaeological Museum Jageshwar which was only 200 meter walking distance.
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There was no entry fee except you need to go in barefooted. I didn’t find it much strange as the idols as been taken and kept from Temple here and they were maintaining the same kind of hygiene and rule here too like temple .It has more than 3000 sculptures of different of many know Gods and Goddesses. Near exit, I found the big Asthadhatu sculpture of king with a broken leg. It was a very old and rare life-size sculpture of king. all of the sculptures has been moved here under the security of ASI after one big theft. By the time I came out from Museum it was 1 p.m. and the change in the weather compelled me to wear jacket. The weather was very cold.
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Dandeshwar mahadeva temple
I get inside the car which took 5 minutes to Dandeshwar mahadeva which was a group of 14 temple with the main temple. The principle temple here was very huge and slight different. The Shivalinga also was very different, like a huge rock. The priest told that Linga fall here that why it looks like this and other story he told was that the Statue of the king in the museum was situated here before it was stolen.
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My feet could feel the coldness on the floor of temple complex where sunlight blocked by trees. I wanted to rest there for some time but clock was running very fast as I had to visit many more places.
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Jhakersem temple
Next destination was Old Jageshwar which was 25 km from Jageshwar. The more we were heading up more the temperature raising. Just before the Panuanaula where the road divided into 3 ways driver told me about the Jhakersem temple which has no statue but a old broken tree as idol. I found it interesting but the driver take turn towards the temple only after I agreed to pay RS. 300 extra as it is on a another way and the roads was not finished and rough. After 10 km of journey I was standing in front of the temple.
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I found it interesting but the driver take turn towards the temple only after I agreed to pay RS. 300 extra as it is on a another way and the roads was not finished and rough. After 10 km of journey I was standing in front of the temple.
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The temple was not looking much older by its structure but as I entered it was surprising to see a old drought tree in the centre of the temple which was coming out of the temple roof. The tree was covered in the below by making a small room where all the worship goods were forming a divine environment. The priest told me that this is the temple of SEM Devta who is Maternal uncle of all local Gods of Uttarakhand.
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I gave some dakshina to a young girl who was taking care of the temple with her father. I misunderstood her as she is working there as permanent was actually student of 10th standard. Actually the temples take care done by a particular village from where every family has to be there in different predicated days and all the donation of the day goes to particular family.
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Old Jageshwar
It was 2.30pm I wanted to see Himalayas much closer as the driver told me it will be visible from Old Jageshwar. The car entered into a dense forest which was mixture of pine, deodar, Burash and Baaz trees decreasing the temperature again.
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The umbrella of the clouds were exactly floating over the temple. The whole mountain seems like a green shawl and worn by the temple. Trees were still wearing few jewels of red flowers of “Burash“ as it was the last glimpse of it. Driver told me Just a month before the whole forest was red but now it carries a last glimpse. I was curious to reach the temple as soon as possible where view of the Himalayas was sure but not easy as it seemed.
The narrow sloped road was partly broken carved around the waist of old mountain. It seemed like falling diagonally over us and the sound of the old taxi armature crying for mercy on the uneven broken road.
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After 13 km of climbing up car was standing in a small market and a very old temple resembling Jageshwar temple.
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The temple was much older than Jageshwar main temple and in a very isolated area. The upper part of temple was small but seems very strong. I entered in which as a very typical darbar like space and at the end in the canter was a small temple room where Idol of shiva linga was situated. The feeling was more than divine as the environment and interior was very ancient.
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After I visit the temple the young priest happily took me to other temples in the backyard those were extremely surprising with their detailed carvings and some figurine taps. After giving some. After giving some Dakshina to young priest I came out along with some roses petals him.
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The sun was bright but unable to conquer the cold wind directly coming from the mighty Himalayas which was clearly visible. It’s seems so close that one can count every pointed peak of the range. Fresh bloomed cotton flowers like clouds merging with the snow and eyes could not understood this optical illusion easily.
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I wanted to celebrate the silence
silence
Deep silence
And just then honking of a grungy taxi which has louder sound of its old bones than the horn interrupted in the celebration. It was 30 minutes I spent on the that ancient site and now I thought of returning back as the driver already made me aware of other places I have to see.
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Lakhudiyar
Leaving behind the high altitude weather I get off in 30 minutes by the swinging road. The Taxi was much louder this time as the road was not maintained and broken. After 2 hours driver stopped near between the forest and before the driver could say anything the Archaeological survey of India board told me about the prehistoric shelter called Lakhudiyar was on the map.
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I didn’t expected it. In my whole life I never been to a prehistoric site. I was walking towards a track which seems like will take me to a deep forest but it was not more than 100 metres I was in front of a common warning board. The small gate and a small boundary covering a head of cobra snake like rock.
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I could see the fade terracotta or red pigment lines on the walls and some repeated patterns showing creative imagining which is symbolising originality of the unknown artist. I could find some human and animal like shapes in black pigment. My imagining took me to the time when those original artist took shelter here during rain and fire must had sat on the same rock I was sitting. After a deep breath I went to up with the leading man made stairs and the surprise again made my eyes sparkle with a perfect view. That place was perfect for a picnic and a sweet nap. But It was time to move ahead.
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I went to the driver and he said “We have enough time now, Almora is only 45 minutes journey. You can go to the river below and take a bath if you really wish. I saw the river which was not much than 400 meters from the road. It was not a big one but a pond formed seems much sufficient for a fresh dip.
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The water was sparkling with the sunlight and small fishes seems like a moving galaxy with the glittering skin in the sun. The pond was not much deeper than, I assumed and the colder than I though. The smooth round stones and wet sand was giving a feeling of natural feet acupuncture which no club swimming pools can give you and also there is no need to spent money for any swimming costume. By the prehistoric cave like a prehistoric man, I enjoyed the bath. After a natural water therapy and several refreshing dips I came out from the water. The wind seems more ruthless then before as it began swinging around my body with no direction.
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It was 5 pm and my body was in need to have some food. I left a small shop 500 meter behind which was clearly visible from there. I asked driver would he like to have some tea he said he would like to have some nap so I left him there and take a walk toward the shop. It was a small shop and on the right side of it a small plastic sheet shelter shop which is carried up with the help of four wooden pillars those they must have cut down from the first above. I asked him what can he serve he said nothing but tea and Maggi. I had no better option better than this in that isolated valley village.
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He lit some wood fire in traditional clay stove. So much white smoke coming out of the stove telling the defend of the wet wood to get burn. He was blowing the stove with a metal black pipe which worked like a weapon and row of white grey smoke broke by a red flame. The reward of the success was lied in the taste of the food and I was not much certain that the taste going to be great. It was just for the sake of empty stomach. The hunger was so overwhelming that I went to my childhood when my mother used to cook my favourite food, I don’t know what that used to be but this time it is just Maggi.
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Meanwhile ,trucks were passing from Dharchula as it was national highway. The kids from the village were playing caram board but it was 7 and I could not understood which are main 4 and also they were more curious in me then the game as its very rare some city person comes to the shop.
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The man asked me would to like to be it spice or less spicy. I said normal because It was very difficult to figure out what is the level of spiciness as in hilly region people takes extra chilli. After 10 minutes the food was on the my hand and he gave me a glass of water.
Wow “Perfect taste with a perfect view�- This thought came in my mind while I was having the second plate of Maggi. The taste was unexpectedly amazing. By the time I finished my Maggi and had tea one of the member of the game won. The boys were now leaving for their pre planed cricket match what I came to know listening their conversation.
I paid Rs. 20 for each plate which was very less for that great taste quite opposite to furnish tasteless food in expensive restaurants.
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I called the taxi back near the shop and continue my roller coaster ride ahead towards the hotel.
It is 8 and I was in hotel. I was tired but not my heart and sky was glooming sky called me for a conversation on the roof. The whole valley wearing blue gown tonight and. . .
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the bright stars celebrating some event.
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What was the event? And the Guest just came out by climbing the high mountain with his companion.
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The MOON with the star. It was full moon today. In the hilly regions moon is visible in different time according to the geographic situation. And since the Almora is surrounded by some much higher mountain the guest appeared little late with a promise of stay long as the other mountains are not much higher behind.
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All what I wanted at that time was coffee and the boy Naveen got me on one the roof.
Everywhere I could see the sparkles of lights on the mountains those lights symbols of human existence in far distances. On one side of look these seems beautiful diamond ornaments but in one could go deeper there are the proof of urbanization in the only remaining homes of wild animals. Many thoughts came in the mind but I myself broke it as I felt equally guilty for this as these hotels and restaurants are foamed because of we city people.
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It was 9.30am and dinner was ready. The hotel I was staying in serves only vegetarian food and It was not that much bed. Plain, simple and tasty.
The celebration in the sky incepted by uninvited blanket of clouds and I also wanted cover myself with blanket of dreams. I went off to a flight of a dreams.
To be continued... 203