Habitat Magazine

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The Future of Food

• What will We be Eating in 20 Years’ Time? • • Edible Insects are the Future of Food • • Bug Eating for Beginners •


Editor’s Note How is climate change making food production more challenging? What role could technology play in addressing those challenges? Technology is influencing how we produce and consume food, and it could help us feed a growing population. But tech-enabled tweaks to our food system raise concerns as well. This month we’ll take a look at everything from insects, synthetic foods and exploring how we will eat in the coming century. This marriage of modern technology and old–fashioned farming is the focus of our April Future of Food issue, in which we’ll take a look at how technology is affecting food today and what changes it might bring in what we eat. We’ll look at various technologies that aim to help farmers use water more efficiently. We’ll also take a deep dive into synthetic biology and the controversy it generates: Is it a solution to global malnutrition or a new evil that makes genetically modified organisms look like no big deal? We’ll tackle synthetic foods from another angle at the end of the month wirth a story on potential risks and benefits of lab–created meat. Thank you for your continued trust and support. We will do everything we can to ensure that we deserve it. Happy reading! Sincerely, Amy Westervelt, Editor

http://climateconfidential.com/2014/09/04/editors-note-the-food-issue/


Contents VOL. 07 • April 2015

04 05 06 10

Fast Facts About 2,500 plant species have been domesticated for food. But today, almost half our food calories come from just three grains.

Bug Eating for Beginners There are many reasons to eat insects: they are tasty, nutritious, and the most environmentally sustainable source of animal protein on the planet.

What Will We be Eating in 20 years’ Time? Volatile food prices and a growing population mean we have to rethink what we eat, say food futurologists.

Edible insects are the future of food Meet the food entrepreneurs who want us to eat protien–rich insects and see them as a “future food”.

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Fast Facts Underused and Overlooked About 2,500 plant species have been domesticated for food. But today, almost half our food calories come from just three grains: wheat, maize, and rice. What about the thousands of overlooked plant species—and an untapped diversity of animals? These resources could provide solutions to problems like the need for resilience in our food production systems and the need to meet growing demands without depleting natural resources. Here are a few promising examples: Algae • Seaweed and other algae, already popular in Japan, are highly nutritious and can be grown in both fresh water and salt water. Insects • Over 2,000 species of insects are already eaten worldwide, including mopane worms (Gonimbrasia belina) in South Africa. Insects are high in protein and require less land, water, and food than animals raised for meat. Quinoa • This grain (Chenopodium quinoa) from the Andes contains all the essential amino acids the human body needs for

protein and has no gluten. Minor millets • These cereals have been grown in Asia for 6,500 years. Many farmers in India and Nepal are now switching from growing crops like maize and rice back to traditional varieties bred to grow on local mountainsides.

More Efficient Farms All over the tropics, forests are being converted to pastures and farmland. 80% of all new tropical farmland is created by replacing forests, with huge environmental costs. But we could produce 50% more food without new farmland by increasing yields, shifting diets, and using water and fertilizer more efficiently.

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Emmer wheat • While millions are spent on high-tech hybrids, neglected crops like the grain emmer (Triticum dicoccum), which requires less fertilizer and fewer pesticides than currently used breeds, are already being grown in places like Turkey. Peach palm • The peach palm (Bactris gasipaes) grows well in Central and South America and produces a large, nutritious fruit. The tree’s spiny trunk makes the fruit hard to harvest—but breeders are developing spineless varieties. Giant swamp taro • The giant swamp taro (Cyrtosperma chamissonis), which grows well in the salty, sandy soil of many Pacific islands, is rich in vitamins and minerals. Yellow varieties are high in beta carotene, which can help prevent blindness.

Staying Power Most farm crops must be planted each year. The roots of these “annual” plants are shallow, and farmers often use resource–intensive cultivation practices to grow them. But many wild plants live several years and produce food over many seasons. Their roots are extensive, help stabilize and build healthy soils. What if we bred crops with deep, perennial roots?

Sea buckthorn • Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) uses nitrogen from the air as fertilizer, thanks to specialized bacteria in its roots. These dense roots are also used to prevent soil erosion in China. The berries are hard to pick, but new machines should help with the harvest.

Giant Swamp Taro

Insects

Sea Buckhorn

Quinoa

Emmer Wheat

Algae

Test-Tube Beef The livestock industry uses 75 percent of all agricultural land for grazing and growing animal feed and produces at least 18 percent of all greenhouse gas emissions. Some argue that safer, healthier meat could be grown using animal cells, instead of living animals—thereby reducing animal suffering, waste and pollution.

Castles in the Sky? By 2050, there will likely be two billion more people. Feeding them the way we do now would require immense amounts of agricultural land we don’t have. But 70 percent of people will live in cities—so why not grow food there, where they live? Urban farms can be found today in yards, roofs, and balconies. Some have even proposed farming in skyscrapers!

http://www.amnh.org/exhibitions/past-exhibitions/our-global-kitchen-food-nature-culture/future-of-food


Bug Eating for Beginners Bug-Eating for Beginners Science news is ‘abuzz’ in this month’s Future of Foods issue, which teaches us that edible insects contribute far less greenhouse gases per kilogram of meat than cattle and pigs. According to our study, since insects produce more usable protein faster and with fewer emissions, they could be an ecological alternative to other forms of livestock. But how can the average American take advantage of this information, and begin to incorporate these delicious critters into their own diet? In light of the fact that trying new things can be intimidating (especially if that ‘new thing’ is eating insects!), we have put together this handy, simple guide to bug–eating for beginners.

Step 1:

Step 2:

Step 3:

Order bugs online.

Freeze bugs.

Cook your bugs!

The easiest (and tastiest) way to start eating insects is to order them live from an insect farm. The most readily available edible insects on the market are crickets, mealworms, and waxworms, which are raised in general for animal consumption. It is also possible to order pre–made, dried bug snacks. However, keep in mind that eating dried, prepared bugs is akin to eating beef jerky— there’s no real comparison to filet mignon.

Once your live bugs have arrived, the first thing to do is to toss them in the freezer. Depending on the bug, they will need 2–10 hours in there before they are ready to use— you don’t want them jumping all over the place while you’re trying to cook them! Next, take them out of the freezer and rinse them; ideally, using a mesh net strainer, because the bugs are small!. This will remove any dirt or substrate (the stuff they live on, like wood shavings), etc.

There are many great recipes out there for preparing these insects, most of which include the exact same steps required with other types of meat (or nuts, or mushrooms): sauteeing, baking, breading and frying, and so on. Sautee them with vegetables and serve them over rice. Toss them in flour, fry them briefly in oil, layer them in lasagna; stir them into risotto, blend them into pesto. Roll them in sushi; fold them in omelets; mix them into muffins!

Insect dishes around the world Chocolate–coated bees are a very popular delicacy in Nigeria. In Ghana, winged termites are fried or made into bread. In Japan, rice cooked with crunchy wasps was one of the late emperor Hirohito’s favourite meals. Termites are eaten with maize porridge in South Africa.

In Mexico, spicy grasshoppers are eaten in tacos. Boiled silkworm pupae are sold in many Korean markets. Dragonflies boiled in coconut milk with ginger are a much appreciated delicacy in Indonesia. Fried or grilled spiders are a popular daytime snack in Cambodia.

Squeamish about tiny legs getting stuck in your teeth? No problem. Make Bug Flour. If you are feeling a bit squeamish about putting bug bodies in your mouth, there is a great alternative. You can dry–roast most insects in your oven simply by spreading them out on a baking sheet and baking them at about 250º for 5–15 minutes. Once they are crispy and golden, pop them in the blender and grind them into a highly nutritious, nutty–tasting ‘bug flour.’ The flour can be added to baked goods, sprinkled on salads, soups, or put into smoothies. If you are using crickets, this will add a great deal of protein, calcium and iron.

https://edibug.wordpress.com/2011/01/15/how-to-eat-bugs-to-save-the-environment/

HABITAT MAGAZINE • 5


Future Foods:

What will We be Eating in 20 Years’ Time?

Volatile food prices and a growing population mean we have to rethink what we eat, say food futurologists. So what might we be serving up in 20 years’ time? It’s not immediately obvious what links Nasa, the price of meat and brass bands, but all three are playing a part in shaping what we will eat in the future and how we will eat it. By Denise Winterman

Rising food prices, the growing population and environmental concerns are just a few issues that have organisations—including the United Nations and the government—worrying about how we will feed ourselves in the future. In the UK, meat prices are anticipated to have a huge impact on our diets. Some in the food industry estimate they could double in the next five to seven years, making meat a luxury item. “In the West many of us have grown up with cheap, abundant meat,” says food futurologist Morgaine Gaye. “Rising prices mean we are now starting to see the return of meat as a luxury. As a result we are looking for new ways to fill the meat gap.” So what will fill such gaps and our stomachs—and how will we eat it? Insects, or mini–livestock as they could become known, will become a staple of our diet, says Gaye. It’s a win–win situation. Insects provide as much nutritional value as ordinary meat and are a great source of protein, according to researchers at Wageningen University in the Netherlands. They also cost less to raise than cattle, consume less water and do not have much of a carbon footprint. Plus, there are an estimated 1,400 species that are edible to man. Gaye is not talking about bushtucker–style witchetty grubs arriving on a plate near you. Insect burgers and sausages are likely to resemble their meat counterparts. “Things like crickets and grasshoppers will be ground down and used as an ingredient in things like burgers.”

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The Dutch government is putInsect nutritional value /100g ting serious money into getting insects into mainstream diets. It Food Source Proteing Calcium Iron recently invested one million euros Caterpillar 28.2 g n/a 35.5 mg (£783,000) into research and to Grasshopper 20.6 g 35.2 mg 5 mg prepare legislation governing insect Dung beetle 17.2 g 30.9 mg 7.7 mg farms. A large chunk of the world’s Minced beef 27.4g n/a 3.5 mg population already eat insects as a regular part of their diet. Caterpillars Source: Montana State University and locusts are popular in Africa, wasps are a delicacy in Japan, crickets are eaten in Thailand. But insects will need an image overhaul if they are to become more palatable to the squeamish Europeans and North Americans, says Gaye, who is a member of the Experimental Food Society. “They will become popular when we get away from the word insects and use something like mini–livestock.” Algae Algae might be at the bottom of the food chain but it could provide a solution to some the world’s most complex problems, including food shortages. It can feed humans and animals and can be grown in the ocean, a big bonus with land and fresh water in increasingly short supply, say researchers. Many scientists also say the biofuel derived from algae could help reduce the need for fossil fuels. Seaweed Some in the sustainable food •• There are 10,000 types in the world industry predict algae farming could become the world’s biggest •• UK waters hold about 630 specropping industry. It has long been cies, but only around 35 have a staple in Asia and countries been used in cooking including Japan have huge farms. •• Worldwide 145 species of red, brown Currently there is no large-scale, or green seaweed are used as food commercial farm in the UK, says Dr Craig Rose, executive director of Source: Seaweed Health Foundation the Seaweed Health Foundation. “Such farms could easily work in the UK and be very successful. The great thing about seaweed is it grows at a phenomenal rate, it’s the fastest growing plant on earth. Its use in the UK is going to rise dramatically.” Like insects, it could be worked into our diet without us really knowing. Scientists at Sheffield Hallam University used seaweed granules to replace salt in bread and processed foods. The granules provide a strong flavour but were low in salt, which is blamed for high blood pressure, strokes and early deaths. They believe the granules could be used to replace salt in supermarket ready meals, sausages and even cheese. “It’s multi-functional,” says Gaye. “And many of its properties are only just being explored. It such a big resource that we really haven’t tapped into yet.” With 10,000 types of seaweed in the world, including 630 in the UK alone, the taste of each can vary a lot, says Rose.

Sonic-enhanced food It’s well documented how the appearance of food and its smell influence what we eat, but the effect sound has on taste is an expanding area of research. A recent study by scientists at Oxford University found certain tones could make things taste sweeter or more bitter. “No experience is a single sense experience,” says Russell Jones, from sonic branding company Condiment Junkie, who were involved in the study. “So much attention is paid to what food looks like and what it smells like, but sound is just as important.” The Bittersweet Study, conducted by Charles Spence, a professor of experimental psychology at Oxford University, found the taste of food could be adjusted by changing the sonic properties of a background soundtrack. “We’re not entirely sure what happens in brain as yet, but something does happen and that’s really exciting,” says Jones.

HABITAT MAGAZINE • 7


Sound and food have been experimented with by chef Heston Blumenthal. His Fat Duck restaurant has a dish called the Sound •• Low brass sounds make of the Sea, which is served with an things taste more bitter iPod playing sounds of the seaside. •• High-pitched tunes played on a pianos The sounds reportedly make or bells make things taste sweeter the food taste fresher. But more Source: Bittersweet Study widespread uses are developing. One that could have an important impact is the use of music to remove unhealthy ingredients without people noticing the difference in taste.

What noises affect what tastes?

“We know what frequency makes things taste sweeter,” says Jones, also a member of the Experimental Food Society. “Potentially you could reduce the sugar in a food but use music to make it seem just as sweet to the person eating it.”

How is a hamburger made in a laboratory? There are several steps and the procedure starts when muscle stem cells are taken from animals in a biopsy, says Mark Post, who is leading the project at Maastricht University. •• To create these solid muscle fibres, the cultivated muscle cells are affixed to a string of sugar molecules (a “scaffold”, pictured) and left to grow between two anchor points. This process occurs largely spontaneously. •• The cells are left to multiply and then develop into muscle cells in a nutritional substance—a “growth medium”. The cultivated muscle cells bulk up into solid muscle fibres and bundles. •• As the muscle cells grow in size, the tissue is continuously supplied with nutrients. For the small, newly formed muscle strands, this is achieved by regularly changing the growth medium. •• The natural consistency of meat must then be recreated by achieving the correct composition of protein and fat tissue. The edible muscle tissue can be ground to create minced meat and, ultimately, a hamburger.

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Companies are also increasingly using the link between food and sound in packaging. One crisp company changed the material it used to make packets as the crunchier sound made the crisps taste fresher to consumers. Recommended playlists could also appear on packaging to help enhance the taste of the product. Lab-grown meat Earlier this year, Dutch scientists successfully produced in-vitro meat, also known as cultured meat. They grew strips of muscle tissue using stem cells taken from cows, which were said to resemble calamari in appearance. They hope to create the world’s first “test–tube burger” by the end of the year. The first scientific paper on lab–grown meat was funded by Nasa, says social scientist Dr. Neil Stephens, based at Cardiff University’s ESRC Cesagen research centre. It investigated in–vitro meat to see if it was a food astronauts could eat in space. Ten years on and scientists in the field are now promoting it as a more efficient and environmentally friendly way of putting meat on our plates. A recent study by Oxford University found growing meat in a lab rather than slaughtering animals would significantly reduce greenhouse gases, along with energy and water use. Production also requires a fraction of the land needed to raise cattle. In addition it could be customised to cut the fat content and add nutrients. Prof Mark Post, who led the Dutch team of scientists at Maastricht University, says he wants to make lab meat “indistinguishable” from the real stuff, but it could potentially look very different. Stephens, who is studying the debate over in–vitro meat, says there are on–going discussions in the field about what it should look like. He says the idea of such a product is hard for people to take on board because nothing like it currently exists. “We simply don’t have a category for this type of stuff in our world, we don’t know what to make of it,” he says. “It is radically different in terms of provenance and product.”

http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-18813075


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Edible insects are the future of food

Meet the food entrepreneurs who want us to eat protien–rich insects and see them as a “future food”. This inspired Radia, 32, to quit his job and set off on a six-month tour of the countries where entomophagy—insect eating—is commonplace, trying everything he could. By Arthur House

The first time Shami Radia tried eating insects was in March 2009 in Malawi, where he was working for the charity WaterAid. “It was the beginning of the rainy season and all of a sudden the kids got really excited and ran outside,” he says. “That evening they brought in a plate of flying ants, all fried up. I tried them with a bit of home brew and they were actually quite nice.”

“People aren’t going to eat insects unless they taste good.”

This inspired Radia, 32, to quit his job and set off on a six–month tour of the countries where entomophagy—insect eating—is commonplace, trying everything he could. “You know how people chuck Maltesers into each other’s mouths? In Laos I saw kids doing it with grasshoppers. In Japan, they eat them with sake as a starter.” As an arachnophobe, he faced his biggest challenge in Cambodia, when he travelled to a village well known for a particular local delicacy. “There were about 100 burnt-looking tarantulas on a tray. You snap off the legs and the head. The legs are fine; they taste like the crispy bit on a chicken wing. The texture of the abdomen is the problem—it’s like a profiterole. It sags and then some creamy

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10 reasons why we should eat insects 1 Insects could be the solution to world hunger. There are forty tons of insects to every human, that’s more than enough for an ongoing “all you can eat” insect buffet. 2 The UN Food and Agriculture Organisation are taking this idea seriously. They are planning to hold a world congress on it later this year.

stuff comes out. I have to admit—I struggled with it. But it’s all about perception. The abdomen was the bit the locals enjoyed the most.” Convinced about the culinary possibilities of insects, Radia returned home to Harrow, determined to introduce them to the British public. He teamed up with his old friend Neil Whippey, 32, who had been working in post-production on television programmes including Jamie’s 30–Minute Meals and Nigella’s Kitchen. In January the pair joined forces with an insect farm in Holland, whose grasshoppers, crickets, mealworms and buffalo worms are fed on carrots, potatoes and grain, and became its British distributor. Their company, Grub, is the only supplier of edible and cookable insects in Britain. The startup costs of £20,000, raised with a combination of their own money and the help of family and friends, covered their website, branding, events, packaging and produce. They hope to break even by the end of the year. Insects are high in protein and sustainable to farm, requiring a lot less water, land and feed than other animals. “It would have been too easy to be worthy about it and get caught up in the sustainability and nutrition,” Radia says. “People aren’t going to eat insects unless they taste good.” They enlisted Seb Holmes, the sous–chef at the Begging Bowl, a Thai restaurant in Peckham, south London, who came up with the concept of Thai–inspired street food, designing 21 insect–based recipes. The team selected seven of the recipes to form a tasting menu for a pop–up restaurant, with sponsorship from Chang Beer, in a former schoolroom on Hoxton Square, east London. “It was good for educating people,” Whippey says. “We’ve had two pop–ups now, both sold out and with brilliant reviews. They have driven traffic to our website and made people want to cook insects at home.” Since January sales have increased 100 per cent each month—Grub’s total online sales revenue for July was £1,500. “The best thing is, we’re having repeat orders,” Whippey says. ‘People are coming back.’ Radia is evangelical about insects as a “future food” and sees their appeal widening further in years to come. ‘Before long people will be growing their own grasshoppers in tanks on their windowsills,’ he assures me. Radia and Whippey aim to go full–time as soon as they can and hope to open a tapas–style bar. In the meantime, with Holmes’s help, they are developing new ready–to–eat products including an insect fudge. “It’s good fun coming up with the recipes, like being Willy Wonka,” Holmes says. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/11100118/Are-edible-insects-the-future-of-food.html

3 They are naturally sustainable. Mealworms, for example, survive on waste wheat chaff rather than guzzling grain like our favourite meat sources. 4 It is easy to farm them on a large scale without damaging the environment. 5 They provide unusual flavours and textures. In the documentary, Stefan Gates enthuses about the “lemony sourness” of red ants paired with the “creaminess of their eggs”. 6 They are highly nutritious. Caterpillars, for example, provide more protein and more iron than the same quantity of minced beef. 7 Many other countries are already eating insects. Cambodians eat tarantulas, in Thailand they deep fry crickets. The UK are way behind. 8 There are over 1,000 varieties of insects edible to humans. Surely there’s something for everyone. 9 British Mexican restaurant Wahaca has already started experimenting. They are currently selling chilli-fried grasshoppers. 10 There is a distinct lack of emotional attachment—unless you were particularly taken with A Bug’s Life.

HABITAT MAGAZINE • 11



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