Dining Out in Style

Restaurant Reviews

The Heathcock

Hot on the heels of Tommy Heaney’s October launch, there was another exciting opening in Cardiff. Tom Watts-Jones and wife Sarah of Aberthin’s Hare and Hounds brought a taste of the Vale of Glamorgan to Llandaf village. Bringing with them an award-winning reputation, including a Michelin ‘Bib Gourmand’, they have transformed a previously unloved pub into a haven for refined Welsh grub. As a former employee at the BBC, I was familiar with the Heathcock; over recent years, it experienced several incarnations, never quite hitting the ‘right’ spot with customers. But the Vale incomers have hit the ground running, welcoming villagers to reclaim their ‘local’, with the added incentive to taste the fruits of contemporary Welsh cooking at its best. So out goes the lasagne, burgers and chips, for a seasonal feast from the Vale of Glamorgan. The decor too, has enjoyed an overhaul, giving the inn a taste of minimalist Welsh style, reminiscent of Kennixton farmhouse at St Fagans. A drink at the bar is a joy in itself, thanks to the array of ‘home-made’ gins and guest ales. I personally plumped for the Aberthin Damson Gin Fizz, but enjoyed a taste of my father’s IPA – a refreshing Thunderbolt from Llantrisant. The Hare and Hounds for me is a dream gastro-pub, and so I was delighted to see some familiar favourites on The Heathcock’s mid-week lunch menu. We kicked off with a snack that’s inspired by a H&H ‘classic’; the Crispy Pigs Head morsels were satisfyingly salty, and nicely balanced with capers, mustard and celeriac. And even if you’ve just popped in for a pint, you really must try the home-baked bread; a seriously fine sourdough, and sourdough focaccia, served with cultured butter. The braised rabbit leg pappardelle, that I devoured as a starter, would be my pick as a main forever, and was paired with a rich Domaine La Rouviole Syrah Grenache from France. Dad’s King Scallops were sublime, with a smoky bacon sauce cut with the tartness of a Granny Smith. The dense-flavoured venison main, for me, though good wasn’t quite at the same level of brilliance, but it still would give most Cardiff restaurants a run for its money. I really should have gone for the H&H classic Roast Torgelly Farm Lamb, mint sauce and confit potatoes; as my father cleared his plate, he declared it a triumph. The final flourish was the plum souffle; light and fluffy, it was a thing of beauty. I’m already enamoured with this city-outpost of the Hare and Hounds and I have no doubt it will become a new family favourite. But I’ll be keen to see how The Heathcock brings local tastes onto the plate and into the bar, and develops its own identity. The major draw to Aberthin is a respect for locality; with all the produce that we now have in Cardiff, from microbreweries to forraged salads, I am certain the same can be done in the capital city of Wales.

Y Dosbarth / The Classroom, Cardiff

On a recent trip to Cardiff from Caernarfon in North Wales, I diverted from my usual go-to chain restaurant lunch spot, to visit The Classroom on Dumballs Road. This well-regarded hot-spot on the top floor of Cardiff and Vale College, is a stone’s throw away from the central station. The unlikely location for a dining destination was a timely lesson in opening the mind.

Much to my surprise, after whizzing up the lift, I found an elegant, contemporary space. Through the panoramic windows, I took in the stunning cityscape, all the way from Caerphilly Mountain and the Principality Stadium, to Penarth Head and Cardiff Bay. Usually abuzz with hospitality students, I savoured the peaceful half-term lull, and noted the high quality of the service that is a constant all year round.

Whilst scanning the seasonal menu, the egg confit starter caught my eye, served with a crispy pork croquette. The rich, contrasting flavours were given an added depth with the earthy taste of crumbled black pudding. What lightened the dish for me - and made it a perfectly balanced starter - was a refreshing drizzle of apple vinaigrette.

For the main, I opted for the chicken supreme: deliciously moist and tender, it was paired with an intriguing combination of flavours. This ranged from the delicate, soft button onions to a sharper sherry jus. The Classroom’s emphasis on seasonal produce was most evident with this dish, as instead of potatoes, it was presented with a tasty pumpkin fondant, and finished off with a nutty pumpkin purée. To complement the dish, I opted for the house Merlot: rich in complexity to parallel the full-flavoured chicken.

For dessert, I went straight for the pear frangipane tart, which is a favourite with the family in Caernarfon. I loved the raspberry purée and the light pistachio ice cream, which helped to lift the slightly dense pastry tart. But it couldn’t quite compete with my mother’s lighter version and melt in the mouth pear and frangipane. Another lesson learnt for me; sometimes, follow the road less travelled.

And at £17.95 for a three course lunch, there will definitely be a next time. A visit to The Classroom is not to be missed, for visitors and savvy foodies alike. What you get for a great price is a contemporary mix of fine dining and a warm sense of familiarity. But ultimately, The Classroom offers a brand new perspective on a promising Welsh capital food scene.

Y Dosbarth / The Classroom, CAVC City Centre Campus, Dumballs Rd, Cardiff, CF10 5FE. Tel.: 029 2025 0377. E-mail: theclassroom@cavc.ac.uk

Glan yr Afon / Riverside, Pennal

The village of Pennal, near Machynlleth is most famous for being home to Owain Glyndŵr - the last native Prince of Wales. The ‘Pennal letter’ of 1406, that he wrote as a ‘call to arms’ draws visitors from afar. But for locals and those ‘in the know’ in Mid-Wales, the star attraction is the food at Glan yr Afon. Following autumn’s Cardiff Half Marathon, it was the perfect dining destination, as I drove home for a well-earned Sunday evening feast. Located at the heart of the village, on the banks of the river Dyfi, Glan yr Afon is a cosy, family-friendly retreat. It is run by local food heroes, Glyn Davies and Corina Owen-Davies, formerly of Portmeirion and the Penhelig Arms. Since they arrived in 2010, they’ve brought their high standards and a keen eye for detail to this charming 16th Century inn. A celebratory ‘clink’ of Prosecco kicked off our Sunday evening supper, and whilst perusing the autumn menu I admired the restaurant’s simple, timeless Welsh style. Some prominent names are represented on the walls, from Kyffin Williams to Pennal artist Ian Phillips, adding colour to the natural wood and slate-centred decor. The array of starters whet the appetite, with the emphasis on classic ‘comfort food’. My husband’s pan-fried garlic mushrooms delivered on all counts, whilst my chicken liver pate – with fruity home-made chutney – hit the spot. The mains, again, were a hearty bunch, offering fine twists on gastro pub fare. But being a Welsh Hill Sheep farmer, there was only one choice for my husband, as he went straight for the Welsh Lamb steak – served medium-rare. Tender and sweet, and just the right shade of pink, it was a masterful affair; nicely balanced with red cabbage and potato dauphinoise, along with a rich, aromatic red wine sauce. Also craving meat, following my half-marathon feat, I plumped for the succulent 10oz steak, with home-made chips, and a classic peppercorn sauce. As one would expect, the meat was local – from Aberdyfi - which adds to Glan yr Afon’s strong sense of place. Believe it or not, there was still some room for dessert, and once more the kitchen did not disappoint. A crisp crème brulee was full of flavour and flair, but most triumphant was my husband’s sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. Later, whilst savouring a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon at the bar, we got chatting to one of the locals, Hugh Jones. Recently retired as the Queen’s chef for over 30 years, he was full of praise for Glyn and Corina’s ‘winning formula’. Hearty dishes of the highest order and a ‘royal’ seal of approval; a warm welcome awaits all to ‘The Riverside’, including ghosts of princes past.

Glan yr Afon / Riverside; Pennal, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 9DW; Tel: 01654 791285

Sushi Life

Coast, Saundersfoot

I rarely turn to Trip Advisor for tips, as the views expressed are often polar opposites. But on occasion it lends a frame of reference, especially with restaurants that consistently hit the mark. Sushi Life, on Wellfield Road, is a case in point – it’s been at number one in the ‘moderately priced Cardiff restaurants’ category for what feels like an age. So, over a year after it opened in April 2017, I got round to booking a table - only to wait another fortnight, due to the high demand. Put simply, it was worth the wait! What I found, to my delight, was a buzzy, chatter-filled space, with some of the most impressive, fresh-tasting dishes in Wales. Although no expert on Cardiff sushi, I still pine for the peppered tuna at the turn-ofthe-millenium hotspot Zushi, and quite frankly I’m ashamed that it’s taken me this long to discover this Penylan-based treasure. It’s the brainchild of Chef Cornel Chiriac from Moldova, who runs it with his artist wife Maria. To add to the multi-cultural hot-pot, he originally trained in the art of sushi in Denmark, before landing at Yakitori, Mermaid Quay, in 2014. Well thank goodness say I; Cardiff is definitely all the richer for Sushi Life. It’s the perfect introduction to high quality sushi and sashimi, along with heartwarming noodle dishes. Forget the zushi-train experience (as plates whizz by you via conveyorbelt); this is a far more refined affair, that includes a wine menu with an international flair. Expecting salt-overload, the German Muscadet was a tad sweet for my taste; perfectly suited to the food, however, was the ripe gooseberry flavours of the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Our Maki Roll starters were presented on a traditional wooden plate, and were almost too pretty to eat. But the Chicken Teriaki rice morsels were gobbled with glee, with the cucumber and avocado lending a satisfying crunch, and added zest. My sisters and I all plumped for exactly the same main - a bowl of the rich Beef Udon Noodles. It put all local chain-noodlejoints to shame, thanks to the freshness of the thick rice noodles, topped with an umami-rich crispy onion garnish. I was far too full for dessert, but did plump for the Plum Sake wine – what an elegant ending to an evening of revelations. I was back the next day for the mango-and strawberry-topped Prawn Tempura Maki take-away; what can I say? It really blew me away. Healthy and hearty, unpretentious, yet arty. I now happily subscribe to the Sushi Life way of life!

Sushi Life, The Globe Centre, 5, Wellfield Rd, Cardiff CF24 3PE; Tel: 02920 459703

West is best for a feast from the east, and an evening of seafood delights. It’s just over a year since Thomas Hine took the helm at one of Wales’ most celebrated restaurants. The former AA Wales Restaurant of the Year (2015-16) was an instant hit when it opened under Chef Will Holland. His departure, last year, from Pembrokeshire drew gasps from foodies, near and far. It is therefore a relief to report that my visit to the beach restaurant was most definitely a success. On an early autumn eve the sterling fish-based menu had me howling at the Harvest moon. Indeed, the Cornish chef (Padstow-born and raised) brings a passion for seafood that is most welcome here in Wales. And his interest in Far Eastern flavours refreshes the taste-buds even further. I arrived early enough to savour a stunning Welsh sunset, with views that stretched from Monkstone Point to northern Gower. And even within the modern space, there’s no escape from Carmarthen Bay, as local oil seascapes by Vyvyan W. Davies draw you in further to the wild west drama. A mackerel ceviche appetizer, however, was the perfect reminder that the star of this show is the food. The sour burst of citrus from the kimchi and coriander kicked my saliva glands into gear. The starter that followed was a contemporary take on a comforting seafood classic. The creamy crab ‘cocktail’ was very nicely balanced with a radish and pink grapefruit salad. A crisp Picpoul de Pinet was the perfect white wine opener, whilst a heftier Californian Chardonnay, was just the ticket for the more robust - and ‘meaty’– main course. The moreish monkfish dish was paired with light Pan-Asian flavours, including pak choi, tomato, raita and satay sauce. It was no wonder to discover that during a three-year stint with chefpresenter Rick Stein, Hines helped develop recipes for his tv series Eastern Odyssey. He left Padstow to develop a more classical style under Michael Caines at Lympstone Manor. But at Coast, Thomas Hine has been given free reign to ‘be himself’ and to let the flavours of Cornish and Welsh produce shine. It’s a treat to experience his vision at Coast – which also includes meat and vegetarian dishes. Indeed, most of the vegetables are hand-picked from the garden at sister-restaurant The Grove, near Narberth. And with a Scottish sous-chef assisting Hine to boot, you’ll find a Celtic feast awaits you at Saundersfoot. So make a bee-line over winter to Pembrokeshire, for a trip to the beach to remember.

Coast, Coppet Hall Beach Centre, Saundersfoot SA69 9AJ; Tel: 01834 810800

Tŷ Castell, Caernarfon

A boutique hotel within ancient castle walls, with a restaurant-bar offering artisan gin and Welsh tapas? Yes please! Open less than a year, Tŷ Castell (Castle House) has created quite a stir, and plays a role in the recent revival of the World Heritage town of Caernarfon. It’s the brainchild of Roland Evans and Gareth Fôn Jones, who – many moons ago - admired the building over a pint of Wrexham Lager. Gareth dreamed of turning the council office building into a wine bar for ‘Cofi Town’; needless to say, in 2017, he and Roland went much further.

Located a stone’s throw from Edward I’s 13th Century fortress, Tŷ Castell was originally home to the castle’s constable. Later registered as a wine cellar, it was also a grocer’s shop, but lay dormant for decades, until fate – and Roland and Gareth - stepped in. During the extensive renovations they discovered many historical details that play a role in the striking old-meets-new Welsh decor.

Behind the American rosewood bar (slate-ship ballast that returned from the New World to Caernarfon harbour) there’s an array of bottles of North Wales gin, that are very in right now. A favourite is Blue Slate from Dinorwig, with its burst of coriander seed aromas. Also popular is Aber Falls from Abergwyngregyn, that comes in marmalade, rhubarb and ginger or parma violet flavours. And for the craft ale crowd, there’s a very fine selection from local brewery Bragdy Lleu in Dyffryn Nantlle, named after various heroes and villains from the Mabinogi (think Lord of the Rings meets Game of Thrones, but much, much older).

Indeed, the theme continues to the hotel upstairs, and the 4 luxurious en-suite rooms. Again, all are named after local Mabinogi characters, whilst the comfy beds are covered in cool Caernarfon tapestries. The buzzy restaurant downstairs is a casual affair, yet make sure to book a table. It’s a popular venue with the after-work crowd, and the fab Welsh tapas is not to be missed. The menu was a work in progress for a while, but chef Robbie Worgan has struck a sweet spot between keeping visitors and hungry locals happy. The Welsh lamb crispy rolls with Teriyaki sauce was a knock-out dish – a true melt-in-the mouth affair. Also a must are the laverbread risotto croquettes - a salty ‘Cofi’ twist on arancini balls. As for the a la carte menu, I’ll be returning for the crab linguine, and the perennially popular sirloin steak and pepper sauce. My recent visit to the area took me to the legendary peak of Yr Wyddfa, and Tŷ Castell certainly added to the drama. There, heroes and villains from the distant past mix with a contemporary Caernarfon crowd. It’s a dream come true, and a cool, modern twist to a legendary Welsh saga.

Tŷ Castell, 18 High Street, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL55 1RN; Tel: 01286 674937

Holm House Hotel

It’s fitting that we’ve been invited to Penarth’s Holm House Hotel just as the latest winter snap begins to dig its teeth in. With views over the Bristol Channel the complex is clearly a hit in summer, but even without the view there’s a lot to be admired about the boutique hotel’s century-old surroundings, with a warm appeal in no small part to the designer fireplace that emits its glow and balminess over the spacious eating area. Boasting a new a la carte menu that champions locally sourced ingredients as well as the refined skills of the chefs looking to impress both visually and gastronomically, the ever impressive Welsh culinary industry has another triumph on its hands.

A cursory glance of the menu reveals a thorough understanding of timeless cuisine with a fervent desire to excite and evolve British staples to new heights. The starter of expertly hewn duck and pheasant roulade is a forthright example, with three sublimely presented slices of game wrapped in ham and topped with a dainty quail’s egg.

The addition of fresh blackberries – whether or not they’re taken from bushes just yards from Holm House wasn’t confirmed – with a luscious fig jam makes for an array of distinct colour, texture and taste, while across the table braised artichoke, lightly seared goats cheese and a smidge of truffle are enveloped by an opulent watercress veloute. The main courses of duck and salmon are more familiar in nature but don’t skimp on clever touches, with the fish’s beautifully seasoned pistachio crust in particular making for prolonged satisfaction. The delightful orange flavoured duck breast and bundle of joy that is the cabbage-wrapped duck confit are both executed flawlessly. Attention to detail, be it simply seasoned and buttered vegetables, moreish roast potatoes and intensely rich jus, underline that getting the foundations perfected are the keys to success.

Holm House still has a few kinks to work out, for example you’ll struggle if you’re a vegetarian with only one option per course, while the pistachio cream that forms part of an intricate dessert alongside concentrated blueberry sorbet, light dacquoise and mini meringues may be a touch overpowering for some. Yet when the chef is capable of a faultless honeycomb soufflé with the most sublimely fragrant lavender ice cream it’s clear that plaudits and satisfied diners will be leaving Holm House in their droves.

Holm House Hotel, Marine Parade, Penarth CF64 3BG. Tel: 029 2070 6029 www.holmhousehotel.com

Pysgoty, Aberystwyth

Pysgoty, Aberystwyth

Bwytai Cymru is a new Welsh-language book by Lowri Haf Cooke exploring y special eateries in Wales. ‘Pysgoty’ is a unique coastal gem on Aberystwyth’s South Beach, one that is utterly embedded in its locality. Housed in a former public convenience, it is the extraordinary vision of a local couple, Craig and Rhiannon Edwards, working alongside chef Pawel Banaszynski. Unsurprisingly given its name, sh and seafood from Cardigan Bay dominate the menu, with shark and whiting featuring occasionally alongside the more usual favourites such as lobster and salmon. All served with exceptional air and imagination.

Mae wastad yn bleser darganfod bwyty bendigedig, un sy’n perthyn yn llwyr i’w fro. Ond pan fo lleoliad y bwyty hwnnw gan milltir o’ch cartref, daw teimladau annisgwyl i chwarae’u rhan, gan gynnwys eiddigedd pur! Dyna’n bendant a brofais innau pan gamais dros drothwy Pysgoty ar bnawn chwilboeth o Orff ennaf yn 2015. R’on i eisoes wedi cael ar ddeall gan gyfeillion yn Aberystwyth fod ff enomenon ar waith ger Traeth y De. Ces fy nghyfeirio at leoliad y cyn-gyfl eusterau cyhoeddus, oedd bellach yn fwyty cyfoes, poblogaidd. Wedi cinio rhagorol a phwdin arallfydol, doedd dim amdani ond neidio’n syth i’r môr. Ar bob ymweliad ag Aber ers hynny rwy’n neilltuo amser i bicio i Pysgoty, gan dristáu nad nad ydw i’n byw yn nes, bob tro.

Beth yn union sydd mor arbennig am fwyty bach fel Pysgoty? Mae’r ff aith nad oes unman arall tebyg yng Nghymru yn atyniad mawr. Mae’n ff rwyth dychymyg dau o’r ardal a synhwyrodd fwlch yn y farchnad, ac oedd yn fodlon chwyldroi eu bywydau er ei fwyn. Roedden nhw hefyd am greu rhywbeth a fyddai’n bendant at eu dant, gan resymu y byddai eraill siŵr o deimlo’r un fath. Diolch i’r nefoedd am y fath hyder a’r fath agwedd fentrus. Ond teg dweud i brofi adau’r ddau – wrth eu gwaith ac yn y gymuned – gyfrannu tipyn cyn hynny at eu penderfyniad i ‘fynd amdani’.

Derbyn hyff orddiant ym maes coginio yr oedd Rhiannon Edwards o Flaen-plwyf, a thechnoleg gwybodaeth oedd byd Craig, ei gwr, o Benrhyncoch. Cafodd hithau ei chyfareddu yn y gegin yn blentyn yng nghwmni’i Mam-gu Penparcau, oedd yn bobydd o fri. Ei chyfl wyniad i fyd gwaith oedd golchi’r llestri yng ngwesty’r Queen’s, a leolid ar ben pella’r prom. Derbyniodd hyff orddiant pellach yn y Conrah a’r Harbourmaster, cyn mynd ati i reoli cegin Gwesty Cymru. Cafodd hefyd brofi ad gwaith ym mwyty Tyddyn Llan ger Corwen, lle cynhaliodd Craig a hithau eu brecwast priodas – tipyn o newid o fan cyfarfod y ddau yng nghlwb nos Pier Pressure.

Dôi Craig, ar y llaw arall, o deulu a chanddo brofiad busnes, yn rhedeg caffi, parc gwyliau a thafarn yn Nhal-y-bont a Phontarfyrnach. Ond wedi blynyddoedd o deithio’n ddyddiol o Aber i Fachynlleth, penderfynodd arallgyfeirio’n llwyr. Gwelodd ei gyfle i gael ei ailhyfforddi pan aeth siop bysgod Jonah’s yn Aber ar werth, gan ddilyn cwrs ym marchnad fawr Billingstone yn Llundain. Tua’r un adeg cynigiodd y ddau syniad ar gyfer Traeth y De, pan aeth cwt yr hen doiledau i dendr. Rhyfeddodd y ddau pan dderbyniwyd eu syniad am fwyty pysgod a fyddai’n chwa o awyr iach yn y dre.

Un o gyd-weithwyr Rhiannon yng nghegin Gwesty Cymru oedd Pawel Banaszynski, cogydd disglair o dre Opatówek yng Ngwlad Pwyl. Rhannodd Rhiannon eu gweledigaeth ag ef, ac aeth y ddau ati i hel syniadau; ymhen dim, roedden nhw wedi llunio eu bwydlen gyntaf. Yn ganolog i’r weledigaeth y mae pysgod a bwyd môr Ceredigion, ac enghraifft berffaith o hynny yw’r bisque. Dyma gawl pysgod cyfoethog a weinir â samffir, a bara o gaffi lleol Medina – dewis perffaith pan fo’r gwynt yn hyrddio’n wyllt tu fas.

Swnio’n syml? Wel, ydy a nac ydy; mae nifer o’r Cymry’n orddibynnol ar gig, gan olygu bod seigiau pysgod yn ddigon i ddychryn ambell un. Cymerwch y ceviche a’i flas leimsur, saig pysgod ‘amrwd’ sy’n deillio o Beriw, a ddaeth yn gynyddol ffasiynol dros y blynyddoedd diwethaf yn Llundain, a thu hwnt. Dysgodd aelodau tîm Pysgoty fod y saig yn apelio’n well o dan yr enw ‘eog wedi’i gochi â sitrws’; bob tro y caiff ei hysbysebu ar y fwydlen mae’n profi’n llwyddiant mawr. Hefyd, gyda’r archfarchnad yn teyrnasu, ry’n ni gwsmeriaid wedi arfer prynu pysgod ffres o bob math trwy gydol y flwyddyn, tra bo Pysgoty – a siop bysgod Jonah’s – yn cynnig y pysgod yn eu tymor. Golyga hynny, ym misoedd Ionawr a Chwefror, mae penwaig (herring) sy’n arwain y fwydlen, tra bo mecryll ar eu hanterth ganol haf. Cenhadaeth y tîm yw ceisio arwain, ac ailaddysgu a datblygu chwaeth newydd ar gyfer pysgod sy’n gynhenid i’r fro.

Ac ymateb yn syn i ofynion cogyddion Pysgoty wnaeth sawl pysgotwr lleol yn wreiddiol. Roedd Rhiannon a Pawel ar ben eu digon bob tro y clywid am helfa ‘anghyffredin’, fel siarc neu wyniad (whiting) neu lysywen fôr – pur anaml yr oedd galw amdanynt cyn sefydlu Pysgoty. Mae enwau o’r fath i’w gweld yn achlysyrol ar fwrdd du y bwyty, ynghyd â chimwch a sushi, a Spaghetti Vongole blas cocos Bae Ceredigion. Ond mae ‘na ffefrynnau, ac yn saethu’n syth i’r brig y mae’r cyrri maelgi blas Thai a gaiff ei weini gyda reis blas almwn ac – yn ddelfrydol – glasied oer o Muscadet. Mae’n ddewis amhosib wedi hynny rhwng y felysgybolfa boblogaidd a phwdin sy’n unigryw i Pysgoty. Mam Rhiannon yw pensaer y streusel, sef cacen ysgafn ac arni ‘friwsion’ blas riwbob, afal neu fwyar a crème anglaise.

Does dim byd i’w gymharu â’r pleser o giniawa yn Pysgoty, ac mae hynny i’w weld yn glir ar wynebau pawb. Dim ond lle i un ar bymtheg sydd yn y bwyty ei hun – gan gynnwys pedwar wrth y bar – a’r hyn sy’n wych yw’r môr o Gymraeg a glywir yno ar bob ymweliad. Daw pawb yn eu tro i dalu teyrnged i Pawel, gyda diolch, a ffarwél â gwên lydan. Dyna’r diolch gorau posib i weithiwr yn y gegin wrth wynebu diwrnod arall yn cenhadu ar Draeth y De.