17 minute read
Dining Out in Style
Hare & Hounds,
Aberthin
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For a pre-game treat, it’s hard to beat the Hare & Hounds at Aberthin. And on a day that Wales beat England in the rugby, the savoured memory of our feast will live as long as that splendid sporting feat. The Vale of Glamorgan gourmet-pub was all abuzz with diners clad in country tweeds and rugby shirts. And for an hour or two, the Welsh regional menu fed the flames with hearty flavours.
A seasonal rhubarb prosecco and Pirate Bay IPA from Bridgend’s Cold Black Brewery were the perfect preprandial thirst-quenchers. The feast kicked-off with a tasty offering that highlighted Chef Tom WattsJones’ take on nose-to-tail eating. A skewered lamb heart separates the men from the boys and displayed a clinical execution; roasted slowly in balsamic vinegar, rosemary and thyme, it was a masterclass in food seduction. Following the home-made sourdough and focaccia breads, the mushroom soup amûse bouche was as light as a chocolate mousse. Sprinkled with black Welsh truffles and a whisper of cep powder, the umami confection was gone in seconds flat.
The choir of flavours gradually rose in fervour with a Jerusalem artichoke tart starter. The rich vegetable foam floated on an indulgent truffle base, encased in a buttery shortcrust pastry. My partner’s mussel and laverbread risotto was a terrific Swansea seafood starter and had us humming ‘Hymns and Arias, Land of My Fathers, Ar Hyd y Nos’. But as with the Welsh rugby team, the best was yet to come – the second half of the lunchtime feast was a outright belter. Having learnt my lesson from an autumn visit to The Heathcock - H&H’s new sisterrestaurant in Llandaf, Cardiff - I plumped for the rump of Torgelly lamb, sourced a few miles away in Llanhari. I cannot sing the praises of this classic enough; between the to-die-for crispy fat, and mellow sweetness of the meat, it is a marriage of Glamorgan flavours made in heaven. The Chateau Marais (a Syrah Grenache blend), was a gloriously jammy red wine, that wonderfully offset the rich potato Dauphinoise.
How on earth do you follow that? With a signature soufflé that brought our meal to a close with a thunderous ovation. Light as air, the ravishing rhubarb affair was paired with a home-made vanilla ice cream. As we sped to the city, past hundreds of red shirts, I was filled to the brim with Welsh pride. ‘To be born Welsh is to be born priveleged’, indeed, and with flavours like these, you cannot help but belt out, ‘Gwlad, gwlad!’.
Lowri Haf Cooke
Hare & Hounds, Maindy Road, Aberthin, Vale of Glamorgan CF71 7LG; tel: 01446 774892
The Midland, Conwy
The brand new head chef at Conwy’s Midland tapas restaurant is Andrew Tabberner, poached from The Loft at the Bull Inn at Beaumaris. While on Anglesey, Andrew worked with local producers such as gardener Medwyn Williams, and Felin Honey Farm, to develop a true taste of Wales.
Now he’s brought his expertise to the medieval walled town of Conwy, currently enjoying a dining renaissance with the arrival of The Erskine Arms gastro-pub and Johnny Dough’s wood-fired pizzas.
Not being a seasoned tapas diner, I asked waiter Anton for guidance. He recommended three to four plates per person – ‘you can always order more if you want’ – so I opted for a mix of carne and pescado.
Anton recommended customer favourite Peeking Pig (belly pork stacks drizzled with Peking sauce). I also opted for albondigas a la jardinera (lamb meatballs in a rich tomato sauce), and from the specials menu, roast cod loin with Welsh yoghurt, burnt onion powder and chive oil. It sounded suitably haute cuisine.
The plates arrive when they’re ready, which isn’t always at the same time, but this allows for relaxed grazing. As a dedicated belly pork fan, the Peeking Pig was a treat. The meat was tender and moist, topped with a layer of crackling perfectly balanced between chewable and crunchy. The meatballs were warming and homely, like mini Sunday roasts, and when halved revealed a rumour of pink at the centre, but might have tasted a little lambier. The peas gave a satisfying al dente pop which accentuated the sometimes elusive flavour of this staple veg.
The highlight was the cod, perfectly cooked to flake on the fork, and worked surprisingly well with the yoghurt’s lip-smacking tang. This brand new special, making its debut the day I visited, deserves a permanent place on the menu.
And then I spied The Midland Eton Mess: fresh strawberries, meringue, Chantilly and ice cream. Now, I’ve had more Eton Messes in my time than I’m comfortable admitting, but this was spot on. Served sundae style, it had the perfect distribution of strawberries and meringue all the way down, making it a sustained journey of discovery to the very bottom!
Whether you know your albondigas from your alioli or not, the Midland is the perfect place to discover classic and fresh flavours mixing Welsh ingredients with Spanish tradition.
Steve Stratford
The Midland, 16 Castle Street, Conwy, LL32 8AY; 01492 573065
Stradey Park Hotel, Llanelli
With the recent sudden closure of Sosban Llanelli, the town is down a dining MVP. Could the chefs at Stradey Park Hotel and Restaurant raise their game – and pots and pans - to paint Llanelli scarlet once more?
The attractive spa hotel is a long-established draw for locals and visitors. Indeed, having previously visited the venue for weddings and conferences, I was familiar with its offerings. But a weeknight stay was a first for me, on a Monday eve in February. By the time we arrived, seventy guests had enjoyed afternoon tea, and the central Copperplate Bar & Grill retained a buzzing atmosphere.
Following a revamp last year, the copper-accented dining room offered a warm welcome in ‘Tinopolis’ town. Tables are close enough to savour a variety of accents – from business guests to lively groups of local diners. We were offered two different menus; the ‘bar & grill’ selection offers familiar bar fare for a very reasonable price. The second, however, was the 3-course dinner menu, with daily specials that showed a touch of flair. As a nod to the local area, I chose a Stradey Park signature as a starter – the Mature Cheddar Cheese & Felinfoel Bitter Rarebit was delicious. My friend chose the creamy parsnip soup and enjoyed its comforting earthiness. As a main, I opted for a dish that flies off the menu - the lamb tagine did not disappoint. The lightly spiced meat was rich and tangy, and balanced nicely with the salad and lemon cous cous. My friend’s pork belly, herb mash and red wine jus, on the whole, was a perfect winter warmer. With a wide choice of desserts we opted to share; the moreish chocolate brownie was a feast of gooey goodness, whilst the lemon panacotta tart paired with salted caramel ice cream had a pleasing zing in its tail.
Our recently refurbished room brightened our cosy Monday night; I only wish we had the time to indulge at the spa, before returning to ‘real life’. A hearty buffet breakfast raised the spirits on Tuesday morning, as did the panoramic view of the Carmarthenshire coast. The Sosban fach of this rugby town might have recently lost a game, but this hearty Sosban Fawr is definitely worth a ‘try’ for a super supper and an overnight stay.
Catrin Rowlands
Stradey Park Hotel and Spa, Llanelli SA15 4HA, 01554 758171
Anna-Loka, Cardiff
Anna-Loka opened its doors four years ago; and is very much at the top of its vegan game. The restaurant has gone from strength to strength since its launch in 2015 – and with vegan Joe Calzaghe at the launch – this timely kick-off started the thinking person’s philosophy that if premium athletes were following a plant-based diet – then the rest of us could too.
Anna-Loka is hands down my favourite vegan restaurant in Cardiff – so it was with a spring in my step I headed over to a taster session – of some old favourites – and some brand spanking new dishes.
Try the cracking Cali Breakfast, one of owner Adam El Tagoury’s top choices: with homemade sausage, bacon rashers, avocado, grilled tomato, scrambled tofu, toasted seeds, agave mustard dressing and wholemeal toast. The Rodeo Seitan Burger rocks: Juicy, meaty, satisfying. Or the new Laska dish, which is simply, outstanding. Beautifully fresh vegetables that are bursting with natural, organic and local flavour, cooked in a dreamy peanut and coconut sauce; a victory of comfort food heaven, served with crispy fried tofu, rice noodles, Bali sauce and chili peanuts. This might just be my next go-to dish.
The Crispy Seafood Cakes are a true testament to the imagination and creativity of Adam’s chefs; and I would happily eat the Muhammara of roasted red pepper and walnut dip, with toasted seeds; served with an awesome airy sourdough, all day long.
Adam tells me he loves the Southern Fried Seitan Burger of crispy coated seitan, panisse bacon, cheese, garlic mayo, and Frank’s burger sauce. Served with a choice of triple cooked chips and ketchup or sweet potato fries with garlic mayo; and I agree that it’s lipsmackingly good.
After all that umami full-on flavour, it’s time to discover something sweet. We dig into a plateful of fluffy, crispy, gluten-free pancakes, with chocolate sauce, fresh raspberries and vanilla ice cream. If there was a scanner showing my brain, you can be sure that all of the pleasure zones would be lit.
As I roll homeward-bound, stuffed to the limit; and on a definite food-high, I reflect on the genuinely exciting menu that Anna-Loka offers. The clue is really in the Sanksrit name, with Anna meaning food, health or earth, and Loka meaning world or planet in India’s ancient language. It effectively represents what Adam and his team offer: an eclectic, authentic, healthy experience that facilitates principled, conscious choices but does not compromise on quality or taste.
Meryl Cubley ©
Anna-Loka, 114 Albany Road, Roath, CF24 3RU. Tel: 029 2049 7703; www.anna-loka.com - Booking highly recommended.
For a Welsh getaway, it’s hard to beat the world-class resort of Portmeirion. The Italian-style village offers an escape from it all and a hallucinatory, multi-coloured trip. Get lost in the Ghost Garden past the Dancing Tree, then experience an explosion of flavours at the Hotel Portmeirion dining room.
The art-deco style restaurant is the jewel in the crown of Clough Williams-Ellis’ grand vision for the estate. Reminiscent of an elegant cruise liner, you half expect Miss Marple and Hercule Poirot to appear at the table next to you. However, it’s the warm Welsh welcome, and magnificent view of the Dwyryd estuary that soothe the soul and ‘bring you back to your trees’.
Criccieth-born Head Chef Mark Threadgill began his career at Portmeirion, before a stint at Hibiscus in Ludlow and Aix-en-Provence, then made a hero’s return back home. He’s brought his adventurous nature and verve to the plate, combining a keen local sensibility with inspiration from overseas.
With a selection of tasting menus, there’s an emphasis on Snowdonian spring produce, including Penllyn lamb shoulder, wild garlic emulsion and tangy asparagus. A perennial signature dish that is popular all year, is a starter that’s an ‘old’ favourite of mine. On a recent visit, the crispy Duck Egg with rich truffle ‘soldiers’ – as always – had me quacking for more. But the main, for me, was a highlight indeed – the memory lingered for days! It was a Monkfish Thai Green Curry, and the flavours were off the scale; balancing warm nutty textures with citrussy notes that hit you straight on the nose.
To finish, a spring twist on the house soufflé; mint choc chip, with a scoop of white chocolate ice cream. This featherlight treat reminded me of ‘Peppermint Bark’ – that moreish American ‘Holiday’ treat. Or, to bring it back home to Wales, imagine a white chocolate Aero whilst humming the old Gino Ginnelli ad! These are tastes to inspire joy, and delight.
My first thought the next morning was not the heavenly bed, nor the fabulous view from my quirky village suite, but of the multi-coloured flavours still dancing in my head. That got me straight to my feet, for a jog down to base for the best breakfast in Wales (and yes - you can quote me on that). Wild redcurrant compote, with Llaeth y Llan Yoghurt, then a full platter of Meirionnyddshire bacon, sausage, black pudding and eggs. It is a breakfast of champions and, much like the village of Portmeirion, has to be seen to be believed yourself.
Lowri Haf Cooke
Restaurant Hotel Portmeirion, Minffordd, Penrhyndeudraeth LL48 6ER, tel: 01766 772440
Beach House Restaurant, Oxwich
Each moment spent at Beach House, Oxwich, is a ravishing, mouth-watering affair. From the drive down from Swansea, through the Gower Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, you’ll be bowled over long before you hit the beach. And the ever-changing micro-climate ensures that the rainbows and sea mists soon pass to reveal a vista that is truly world class.
The restaurant – a former beach shop and coalhouse - works in harmony with its natural surroundings, from Three Cliffs Bay to Oxwich Point. Little details bring to mind Welsh folk song ‘Ar Lan y Môr’, such as rosemary growing in abundance on the terrace. Each step of the menu is a similar experience, with offerings to tempt, to soothe and inspire.
Chef-Director Hywel Griffith, from Bethesda in Snowdonia, designed all aspects of the bilingual menu. He won the AA award for Wales Restaurant of the Year 2017-18 for his locally sourced, seasonal dishes. Having visited the restaurant on previous occasions, I leapt for the 3 Course for £29.50 Lunch Menu.
As the designated driver, I requested a non-alcoholic refresher - the cherry and ginger zinger hit the spot. Sommelier Alexandra promised a rhubarb spitz for Spring, although next time I’ll hope for an Ivy’s or Gŵyr G&T – both distilled nearby at Port Eynon. Whilst perusing the menu, I devoured a pork and rhubarb bite, which swayed my choice towards the signature Tŷ Siriol pork main course.
But first to arrive was the luscious laver-striped bread encased in an oak and Penrhyn Quarry slate box. In a zen-like daze, I was hit with the fragrance of Wales, as as soon as my Lemon Sole starter hit the table. Poached in brown butter, with leeks and laverbread, it warmed the cockles of my heart.
I’d previously savoured the retro-chic pairing of pork and pineapple (a staple on the tasting menu), but never the joy of pork belly and kimchi. The Pontarddulaisreared pig was elevated to high heaven by the umami tang of Korean-style cabbage. I finished on a note of pure delight, with a blast of Welsh nostalgia. One of the Chef’s fondest memories is his ‘Nain’s’ custard tart; his tribute to her is his ‘Cacan Cwstad’. A gloriously thickset egg-custard slice, sprinkled with nutmeg on top; it made one wonder, ‘why all the fuss about panacotta?’.
A refreshing ‘dip’ for the senses, and a rememberance of things past. Isn’t that what all seaside visits are made of? Be sure to make your own Beach House dreams come true by savouring the gastronomic grandeur of the Gower.
Lowri Haf Cooke
Seeds, Llanfyllin
Ceir naws hyfryd o hiraethus ym mwyty Seeds yn Llanfyllin, ac mae’n bleser ei phrofi bob tro. Mae cael clonc gyda’r perchnogion am geginau o fri o’r gorffennol fel cynnal sgwrs â hen gyfeillion sy’n llawn hanesion. Y cogydd Mark Seager sydd wrth y llyw yn y gegin ers 1991, a’i wraig Felicity sy’n gofalu am y bwyty. Mae’r gair ‘gofal’ yn gwbl addas, gan fod Mark yn grediniol mai cysur y mae’r busnes yn ei gynnigyn y bôn.
Magwyd Felicity yn Newlyn yng Nghernyw, mewn cartref o’r enw Pen y Bryn. Roedd ei thad yn bysgotwr, a’i hoff flasau hi hyd heddiw yw pysgod ar yr asgwrn a chranc. Er mai o Yeovil yng Ngwlad yr Haf y daw Mark yn wreiddiol, fe’i magwyd yn Ilfracombe, gogledd Dyfnaint. Aeth i goleg arlwyo lleol yn Barnstaple cyn dechrau gweithio yn Llundain, yn y Café Royal. Wrth deithio i Lundain o’r de-orllewin un tro, dechreuodd sgwrsio â merch dlos yng ngorsaf Caerwysg. Felicity oedd honno – neu Felix iddo ef – ac roedd hi ar ei ffordd i ddechrau swydd newydd yn Kensington.
Tra bu Felicity yn hyfforddi gweithwyr mewn gwestai crand, profodd Mark agoriad llygad mewn cyfres o geginau mawreddog. Bwydodd frenin y byd lletygarwch, Rocco Forte, bob dydd fel prifweinydd y Café Royal. Aeth wedyn yn fwtler i reolwr y BCCI (Bank of Credit and Commerce International), gan olchi llestri ym mwyty Monkey’s yn Chelsea fin nos. Fe’i hyfforddwyd yn glasurol i weinio’r dde a glanhau o’r chwith; daeth arlwyo i gannoedd o westeion yn ail natur iddo. Ond wedi profi’r wythdegau yn Llundain ysai’r ddau am newid byd, a dyna yn bendant a ganfu’r pâr yn Sir Drefaldwyn.
Mae gwreiddiau hynafol y bwyty yn tarddu o’r flwyddyn 1580, pan adeiladwyd bythynnod Pen-ybryn. Bu carcharorion rhyfel yn byw yno yn ystod y ddeunawfed ganrif, a bu’n siop farbwr cyn troi’n fwyty llwyddiannus. Prynodd Mark a Felicity’r busnes gan Mr a Mrs Seed, cyn mynd ati i adfer yr hen adeilad. Yn addurno’r waliau brics cochion lleol y mae llu o ddarluniau llachar, a chofroddion gwahanol iawn o’r Dwyrain Pell. Mae mwgwd ‘Horace’ o Bali yn hawlio’i le uwchben y llawr llechi, gan wgu ar lun o Aberdyfi.
Yr un mor eclectig yw’r fwydlen ddyddiol sy’n asio’r lleol â’r rhyngwladol. Mor fychan yw’r bwyty, mae sawr y coginio’n taro’r ffroenau ymhell cyn i’r seigiau gyrraedd y bwrdd. Mae’r risoto madarch wystrys a shitake yn ddosbarth meistr mewn cynildeb, a’r cregyn bylchog wedi’u ffrio mewn saws tsili a leim yn clirio’r daflod o’r gwe pry cop. Clasur ar y fwydlen yw’r rhac cig oen a mwstard Dijon neu saws blas cwins. Peidiwch â chefnu ar Sir Drefaldwyn heb ei flasu! Daw swmp helaeth o’r llysiau a’r perlysiau o ardd leol yn Llanfyllin, a ddatblygwyd gan gwsmer ffyddlon iawn. Bob dydd Iau, ar ddiwrnod marchnad, fe ddaw Derek a’i fan bysgod – er mawr bleser i Felicity mae’r sardîns o Gernyw yn boblogaidd ar y fwydlen. Ond daw’r cig i gyd gan y cigydd Pete Tomlinson, sydd â’i ladd-dy ei hun gyferbyn â’r bwyty. Amhosib yw gadael y bwyty heb bwdin yn y bol, a chlywed rhagor o hanesion Llundain. Os byddwch yn ffodus cewch gwrdd â’r mab, Oscar Indiana – Cymro Cymraeg sydd bellach yn ‘gamer’ adnabyddus, Armadon2000! Ond ymhell o ruthr y rhithfyd, ceir byd o bleser yn Llanfyllin. Wedi gwibdaith o flasau, annisgwyl mewn mannau – fel saws kohlrabi a phomgranadau – paratowch am flas llawn cysur o gegin eich hen neiniau ar ffurf tarten driog a hufen. Tra blasus!
Bwytai Cymru by Lowri Haf Cooke (Gomer Press), £9.99
