taste shropshire summer 2009 by warran brindle

Covering shropshire, powys &

the welsh Marches

summer09

shropshire magazine

Walking in Ellesmere, Stiperstones

GREAT days out

cover recipe page 33

Serving up Summer

Win! A Balloon Ride food

drink

events

Bees & honey Kitchen style

stay

PricÂŁlÂŁss

www.tasteliving.co.uk

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Bees & Honey Honey is one of the world’s most versatile, tasty and valuable natural products. It’s sweetness epitomizes summer flavours, while its use as a cure for colds and man-flu sufferers is legendary

hropshire has dozens of beekeepers, whom dot their hives in backgardens of Belle Vue, Shrewsbury or on the perfumed hills of the Long Mynd in south Shrosphire. Hives can pop up almost anywhere. For example, Oakgate Nursery near Ellerdine, north Shropshire hosts four hives from a local keeper. The honey crop can be tasted in homemade cakes sold in the Oakgate Nursery Conservatory tearoom. Shropshire Honey’s John King keeps hives in and round south Shropshire and Herefordshire and is a regular presence at farmers’ markets and festivals. John produces pure, untreated, unblended honey, cut comb and related beeswax products. London store Fortnum & Mason sells an 8oz, ceramic jar of Shropshire honey for $40 (about £26) saying that “After a busy time pollinating crops for grateful farmers, the bees’ well earned vacation in the river-bank flowers, ancient lime trees and organic clover adds distinction to this complex honey.” They also supply Shropshire Honey Mustard: “just the thing with gammon or smoked fish.

What gives honey its flavour? Honey is produced all over the world, from the heat of the tropics to the crisp cold of Scandinavia, Canada and Siberia. The warm climate of equatorial countries allows honey to be produced for most of the year, whilst beekeepers in Finland have a short season of just 2-3 weeks a year! The distinct aroma, flavour and colour is determined by the type of flower from which the bee collects the nectar. Some honey closely mimics the characteristics of the herb or tree whose flower the bee has visited, such as orange blossom or lime blossom, or rosemary and thyme. Most honey comes from bees foraging on many different floral sources, and are

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Shropshire’s brave border bees bring a generous dose of Fortnum’s Honey to sweeten this muscular mustard.” The industrious humble bee works very hard to pollinate flowers and crops. But they are under attack from a variety of angles. For example, the varroa mite attacks and kills honey bees and can lead to the collapse of bee colonies. As bees are responsible for 80% of all pollination by insects, a drop in the bee population will directly affect the production of fruit and arable crops. Bees are responsible for pollinating a third of what we eat (around 90 crops worldwide) and according to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra), bees contribute £165m a year to the economy. In the last two years, two million colonies of honeybees have been wiped out across America by what is believed to be Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD). In Britain nearly one in three of the country’s 240,000 honeybee hives did not survive last winter and early spring. In April, Defra topped up its bee research programme by £2m to total £10m. Not a moment too soon.

known as polyfloral. However some plants provide enough nectar during their short flowering season, and are so irresistible to the local bee population, that a hive can yield honey from one single type of flower. This honey, known as monofloral, is keenly sought by beekeepers. Here in Britain, honey is produced primarily for the local market. With over 35,000 beekeepers throughout the country harvesting honey from apple blossom, cherry blossom, hawthorn, lime blossom, dandelion, and the more popular and commercially viable norage and heather; an excellent range of different honey types are available on our own doorstep. Production in Britain is limited due to

the unpredictable climate. In a normal year we consume over 25,000 tonnes spread on bread, in cereals, in baking and cooking, or simply by the spoonful. Around 4,000 tonnes is produced in Britain.

What is honey? Honey is a complex mix of natural sugars (80%), water (18%) and (2%) minerals, vitamins, pollen and protein. Of honey’s 80% natural sugar content, around 70% is made up of fructose and glucose. The balance of these two sugars determines whether a honey is clear or set. Both types are equally pure and additive free.

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8 Honey

Honey, orange & coconut cake

Facts

Honey never spoils. It can be stored unopened, indefinitely, at room temperature in a dry cupboard. Honey lasts forever - or nearly. An explorer who found a 2,000 year old jar of honey in an Egyptian tomb said it tasted delicious! Due to the high level of fructose, honey is 25% sweeter than table sugar. Honey is created when bees mix plant nectar, a sweet substance secreted by flowers, with their own bee enzymes. To make honey, bees drop the collected nectar into the honeycomb and then evaporate it by fanning their wings. The average honey bee will actually make only one twelfth of a teaspoon of honey in its lifetime. A typical beehive can make up to 400 pounds of honey per year. Honey bees must gather nectar from two million flowers to make one pound of honey. Out of 20,000 species of bees, only four make honey.

Source: Rowse Honey

Serves 8

Honey, orange & coconut cake

5 things you can do to help bees! 1 Become a beekeeper. 2 Plant your garden with bee friendly plants alliums, mints, all beans (except French beans) and flowering herbs. 3 Buy local honey - keeps food miles down, helps the beekeeper to cover costs. 4 Find space for a beehive in your garden if you have some space contact your local beekeeping association and they could find a beekeeper in need of a site. 5 Wash jars of foreign honey before putting out for recycling - honey brought in from overseas can contain bacteria and spores. harmful to honeybees.

Honey in Cooking You can use honey in cooking instead of sugar. Because it is sweeter than sugar, you need to use less. If you are experimenting with honey in a recipe, try replacing half the sugar with honey as the flavour can be very strong. Honey is hygroscopic (it attracts water) so it is good for baking cakes as it keeps them moister for longer.

What is the difference between clear and set honey? The higher the fructose content, the longer the honey will remain liquid. Some honeys contain more glucose than fructose and, therefore, are very likely to crystallise swiftly. Source: The Honey Association

150g strained Greek yogurt 125g Rowse set honey 125ml sunflower oil 3 eggs, lightly beaten 125g caster sugar 75g desiccated coconut 250g plain flour 10ml (2 tsp) baking powder grated zest 1 orange

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. 2 Grease and base line 2 x 20cm (8 inch) sandwich tins. 3 In a large bowl, beat the yogurt, honey, oil, eggs, sugar, coconut, flour, baking powder and orange zest together. 4 Divide the mix between the two tins and bake for 25-30 minutes, until risen and just firm. 5 Leave to cool for 10 minutes then turn out onto a wire rack to cool. 6 Spread the honey over one cake, top with cream or crème fraîche and place the other cake on top. 7 Sprinkle with slivers of toasted coconut and serve. Source: Rowse Honey

Contacts: Shropshire Beekeepers Association The British Bee Keepers Association International Bee Research Association

www.shropshirebees.co.uk www.britishbee.org.uk www.ibra.org.uk

John King, Shropshire Honey Local producer supplying pure, untreated, unblended honey, extracted from hives in Shropshire and Herefordshire. Also cut comb and related beeswax products. Tel (01694) 781544 Email: johnking@shropshirehoney.com

Beekeeping Courses in Shropshire Brian Goodwin at Radbrook College

Tel (01743) 884524 ‘The Products of the Hive’ Tuesday 16 June

One day sessions at Acton Scott Farm Mmuseum Run by Brian Goodwin acton.scott.museum@shropshire.gov.uk

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For the filling 75ml set honey 150ml crème fraîche or whipping cream, whipped toasted coconut to decorate

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PROMOTION

Regulars and shoppers mingle freely with first time and occasional visitors to Shrewsbury’s Market Hall. It’s a place where shoppers chat openly with stallholders, meet friends and generally enjoy the friendly and welcoming atmosphere

R Photos from top: Town landmark: Shrewsbury Market Hall tower, Student Rachel, Thea and Ian, South African ketchup, Sarah and Jonathan

acks of fresh vegetables, and chiller cabinets showing the best cuts and joints of lamb, beef, pork and poultry, whet the appetite and provide inspiration for home cooking at Shrewsbury’s Market Hall. But the key question is why do shoppers visit the market and what do they enjoy about the unique atmosphere that other shops or supermarkets don’t offer? With two teenage boys to feed at home, Jonathan and Sarah Hayes shop at the Market Hall weekly. The local couple from Belle Vue, Shrewsbury combine walking their dog on a Saturday morning with popping into the Market Hall for their shopping luxuries including Sunday lunch ingredients, staples for the week and a bunch of colourful flowers. Having visited the Market every week for more than 20 years, Sarah says: “We love the freshness and the fact that much of the food sold at the Market Hall is sourced locally.”

Opening Hours

Fresh fish and meat

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday

When Ian and Thea Roberts relocated to Shrewsbury five years ago, they discovered a hidden gem - that the Market Hall is a fantastic source for fresh fish. Visiting Barkworths has now become a fortnightly routine where they have got to know and trust advice from fishmonger Ian Cornall and his team. Ian is happy to share his knowledge of offshore and seasonal fish with preparation and cooking tips. Ian and Thea like to arrive early in the morning, buy their fish and return later in the day to pick up their purchases,

Friday Saturday

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Closed All Stallholders 8.00am - 4.00pm All Stallholders 8.00am - 4.00pm Butchers, Deli. 8.00am - 1.00pm All Stallholders 8.00am - 4.00pm All Stallholders 8.00am - 4.00pm

which have been stored in the Barkworth’s fridges. The option of keeping the fish until the couple have completed their shopping, “is a great service and one that you wouldn’t find at the local supermarket,” says Thea. Even though they have moved to the village of Harnage, south of Shrewsbury, they continue to shop at the Market Hall. They also visit Jabulani South African Foods for a taste of All Gold De Tomato Ketchup. “We fell in love with it on our honeymoon in South Africa,” says Ian who is thrilled to find such an unusual product in Shrewsbury. The couple also keep an eye-out for out for in-season venison, flowers and birdseed.

All in the family Teacher training student Rachel Barton lives in Shrewsbury, and often visits the Market Hall for special ingredients and on occasions such as birthdays. Recently Rachel visited the Market to buy icing for a musical project being staged at a secondary school. She often comes to the Market Hall to buy flowers and speciality products she can’t find on the high street. Her mum and grandmother also shop in the Market Hall for the ‘nicer quality’ of dairy and meat products. “They like that it is local and you know where your food comes from,” says Rachel. CONTACT The Market Hall, Claremont Street Shrewsbury SY1 1QG Tel (01743) 351067 www.markethallshrewsbury.co.uk

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FRESH NEW SUMMER MENU

James Martin, TV chef

Here’s a sample to get your taste buds going!

Ready, Steady Bloom

hrewsbury Flower Show, August 14th & 15th, the world’s longest-running horticultural display, is gearing up for a big influx of visitors this year – not least from families deciding to take more holidays at home this year. An increasingly popular part of the show is The Marches Foodhall with its full range of top quality food and drink producers from Shropshire, the Borders and beyond. Specialist suppliers include local fish and vegetable boxes, fresh meats and for those with a sweet tooth, handmade chocolates. One of the most eagerly

awaited attractions at this year’s show will be the appearance of celebrity television chef James Martin who will be giving cookery demonstrations in the foodhall over both days. Another returning attraction will be The Shropshire Beekeepers Association and their popular and informative display of beekeeping and honey and wine making. Shrewsbury Flower Show Friday and Saturday, August 14 and 15. Shropshire Horticultural Society Quarry Lodge Shrewsbury SY1 1RN Tel (01743) 234050 www.shrewsburyflowershow.org.uk

Diamond fare

ongratulations to this year’s winners of the Heart of England fine foods Diamond Award. They collected their awards at a glittering ceremony and gala dinner where Just Rachel Quality Desserts, Herefordshire, and Heather’s Harvest, Shropshire, were crowned joint winners of the overall award for Taste. The Wood Brewery, Craven Arms, took home the Special Diamond Award for Excel, sponsored by Advantage West Midlands. Judges said that the company “regularly develop special

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STARTERS Pressed smoked bacon and chicken terrine with a spiced £5.50 fruit chutney and toasted ciabatta Thai Kind prawn salad with crab meat, brown rice and £6.25 cashew nuts

MAINS Braised lamb shank in a rosemary jus, creamed mashed £15.95 potato and roasted vegetables Salmon fillet steamed and served with grilled asparagus, £12.95 king prawns and aioli

STEAKS FROM THE CHAR-GRILL 227g (8oz) – Fillet steak 284g (10oz) – Rib eye steak 254g (16oz) – T-bone steak

£19.90 £15.90 £17.90

TAPAS King Prawn and crayfish bruschetta with red pepper, £6.50 garlic and chilly dressing BBQ Spare ribs with sour cream & chive dip £5.50

SALADS Classic Caesar salad with Kos lettuce leaves tossed in our own recipe Caesar dressing with ciabatta croutons and parmesan shavings -(v) Starter £5.00 Main £6.50

SANDWICHES Atlantic prawn with marie rose sauce Roast rib of beef with horseradish cream

£5.70 £5.50

PUDDINGS Classic rhubarb créme brulée with shortbread Profiteroles with Chantilly cream butterscotch sauce Lemon and passion fruit tart with vanilla pod ice cream All priced at £4.95 Wood Brewery’s Ed Wood collects the Excel award in recognition for his company’s community work

products linked to the local community” and were “totally committed to reducing waste and energy”. A full list of winners and the short-list can be found at www.heff.co.uk

SPECIAL OFFER 2-COURSES for JUST £12

Taste Magazines has teamed up with Morgans in Shrewsbury to offer readers a delicious two-course meal at the popular restaurant for JUST £12. Valid throughout June.

MUST be pre-booked

Call (01743) 239114 or email morgans@theexchangehotel.co.uk Please quote Taste Magazine when booking. Morgans Café @ The Exchange Hotel 1 Bellstone, Shrewsbury SY1 1HU Tel (01743) 239114 www.theexchangehotel.co.uk

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people

out & about... food MARKET THE SQUARE SHREWSBURY

Producers, farmers and networkers have all been busy at some great events across the county, taste was there to meet them

Bread on sale, Fresh fruit and vegetables from Boxfresh Organics and Heather Williams, Dai Morgan and Ian Fuller.

spring in ludlow Beth and David from at the Ludlow Spring Food Festival, Genevive Tudor from BBC Radio Shropshire with Joy Blizzard from Shropshire County Council and sausage making with Sandy Boyd from the Ludlow Food Centre.

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people

Networking with style shrewsbury & telford Top left, from left: Sam Hatton, Bruce McMichael and Alison Bukhari. Above from left: Networking with Style committee, Kelly Mansell, Rosie Beswick and Leigh Clarke.

tanners international wine fair International wine makers at the Tanners shop on Wyle Cop Shrewsbury

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In partnership with fine dining guide www.gourmet-life.co.uk

Daily selection of favourites and specials. Relaxing outdoor sun terrace, and wine bar.

£10 per person, including rice. Served MondayThursday lunch & evenings.

New dessert menu, tastes as good as it looks!

Broseley, Nr Ironbridge Shropshire TF12 5DL Telephone: 01952 882004 www.dinewithus.co.uk/king-thai

! Fabulous Puds

Enjoy the “Highest pub in the land” Walking, drinking, eating, relaxing. Enjoy the view, and our warm hospitality. Ample parking.Rooms from £50 per night. Sunday’s Live music & outdoor BBQ’s. Call now for further details.

Traditional

Beers

oor Area

Covered Outd Relaxing Atmosphere

live Music

, Locally Home Cooked Sourced Food

Friendly Service

Weekly B

BQ’s

Inn-dividua lity and Tradition

Set atop Wenlock Edge, Nr Much Wenlock, Shropshire TF13 6DJ Tel 01746 785678 www.wenlockedgeinn.co.uk

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June 27th - 28th