Fashion Journal Tatiana Gorogianis
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Table of Contents Fashion Journal
Tatiana Gorogianis
Table of Contents Entry #1
Women’s Wear Daily- November 21, 2013
Entry #2
The Wall Street Journal - December 8, 2013
Entry #3
Vogue - December 3, 2013
Entry #4
Fashion Observation
Entry #5
3 Dominant Trends
Entry #6
WGSN Trend Reports
Entry #7 A
Fabric Trends
Entry #7 B
Color Trends
Entry #8
WGSN Global Trends
Entry #9
Visual Displays
Entry #10
Catching Fire Fashion Trends
Entry #11
Designer review
Entry #12
Career Description
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1 2 4
4 7
7 9
9 10
10 11
11 12
12 14
14 15
15 18
18 19
19 20
20 21
21 22
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Entry #13
Fashion DON’TS
Entry #14
Possible Career Opportunities
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23 24
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Entry #1 Women’s Wear Daily- November 21, 2013
New Concept for Nordstrom Beauty
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By RACHEL BROWN
Nordstrom Inc. is giving its beauty departments a fresher, more contemporary look designed to give customers more individualized ways to shop.
Unveiled at stores in the California shopping centers The Americana at Brand in Glendale and The Shops at Mission Viejo and expanding to a total of nine doors by January, the most dramatic modifications are to color cosmetics areas, where customers are encouraged to shop how they want, whether it is on their own by opening drawers brimming with makeup or with guidance from staff dedicated to specific brands or brand agnostic. Nordstrom is also simplifying beauty shopping by breaking down its vast selection by trend and key product no matter what brand, and offering shoppers access to beauty concierges, trial sizes and applications, consultations and other services so they can more fully experience the products.
The refreshed approach recognizes that the traditional behind-the-counter model of selling beauty products doesn’t work for everyone. Acknowledging Sephora and e-commerce have impacted shopping for beauty products, Pete Nordstrom, president of merchandising for Nordstrom, said, “The best ingredient to success is to be reflective of what the customers are interested in. Customers evolve and change over time, not only in regards to the product, but how they like to be served. In the beauty segment, there is an opportunity to serve the customer in a different and a better way. We have to allow our stores to be able to evolve to be able to appeal to customers, not just to legacy customers, but to our new customers.”
After working with her predecessor Laurie Black, who retired in April, to identify improvements that could enrich the beauty departments, Gemma Lionello, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of cosmetics at Nordstrom, is spearheading their rollout to Nordstrom doors. During a tour of the Nordstrom beauty department at The Americana at Brand, she walked through the process of updating the beauty departments, which included conducting focus groups with customers and building a mock-up of the tweaked beauty department in Tukwila, a suburb of Seattle, where Nordstrom is headquartered. Beauty brands reported Nordstrom shared the research it did with them to buttress the adjustments that would be made to beauty departments.
“Our main objective is to heighten and enhance our service experience for our customers and really give the customers the opportunity to shop beauty on their own terms,” said Lionello. “We worked with our customers and actually took their advice about what they would like to see in a perfect beauty environment and also brought in our salespeople to the [mock-up at the] customer-experience center, so we had them work together with the customers. We’ve taken the best from both worlds and tried to roll it out into this new concept.”
Many of the elements of the new concept are grouped into what Lionello called the core of the beauty department. At the core, customers will find a mini must-haves section, a trend zone, beauty concierge, end caps that showcase a range of products from the brands in important categories such as mascara and primer and beauty stylists that provide expertise from across the array of brands in the department. Talking about the mini must-haves section, Lionello explained that it features an assortment updated about once a month of “what’s really hot in beauty” in trial sizes “because a lot of our customers want the opportunity to buy a new product without committing to that product for three months.”
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The trend zone spotlights products from several brands that give customers the ability to try a trend they might have seen on the runway or in magazines. For example, the trend zone has focused on the bordeaux lip, the graphic eye and nail art. The end caps reveal the diversity of products that Nordstrom has available in popular beauty categories. In the end cap for mascara, Lionello pointed out, “You’ve got the lengthen, you’ve got the all-in-one, the volumize, the curl, and it’s across all brands, hopefully helping the customer navigate some of these categories that sometimes can be daunting for her. A lot of customers want to know across brands. You want to know all your mascaras, not just this one brand or that one brand, so this really gives her that knowledge.”
The beauty concierges and beauty stylists are likewise not obligated to stick to a particular brand. “If you’re new to beauty or you’re a little intimated, you can come in and talk to our concierge and ask whatever question you may have,” said Lionello. There are two concierges at The Americana at Brand store and two stylists as well. In general, Lionello estimated there would usually be one or two per door of each within the new beauty department concept. Of the beauty stylists, Lionello remarked, “All of our employees are allowed to sell across brands, and we encourage them to do so, but some customers just prefer to have that person that’s not attached to a brand, so this is one more point of difference for us to give her that opportunity.”
Louis Desazars, chief executive officer of Nars, argued it’s a great idea to have employees in the stores that aren’t committed to individual brands. “Their opinion should not be skewed and should be very genuine to what they believe is the right product for the customer. If they’re true to that, the concept will be very successful,” he asserted. Discussing the beauty stylists in particular, he continued, “I have met a few of them. They are people who are strong in terms of artistry. Most of the time they have a makeup artist background. What drives their recommendations is what they believe is right for the customer and what they have a passion for in terms of product. I think it was a very smart move for Nordstrom.”
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Moving from the core of the beauty department to color cosmetics brand presentations, Nordstrom eliminated barriers that maintain a distance between customers and beauty products. There are still brand salespeople present to field inquiries and give advice about products, and chairs and mirrors for makeup application, but the displays themselves communicate clearly about products so customers don’t have to engage the salespeople if they don’t want to, and they can handle products without assistance. “Its much more approachable and friendly. We started opening up our counters in beauty in 1998, so now we are just heightening it and taking it to the next level,” said Lionello. “It’s all about making it playful and fun.” Alicia Valencia, senior vice president of sales and marketing at Bobbi Brown, said the brand’s staff is trying to strike the right tone for the new Nordstrom beauty concept. “You don’t want to come off as being too aggressive. The whole idea is for a customer to have no pressure and shop on her own time, but you also don’t want the customer to think that there is no assistance,” she said. “You have to know whether the customer does not want to have a makeup lesson today. You can give her something quick for her to do in five minutes or invite her to come back another day.” In order to effectively guide customers who’d like to avoid salespeople completely, Bobbi Brown put a foundation chart on its displays to enable those customers to navigate shades themselves.
Skin-care brands placed highly communicative displays in the new Nordstrom beauty department, too. Kate Somerville’s displays plainly spell out the different categories of the brand’s products, such as acne or antiaging, highlight bestsellers and products that editors are keen on, and have iPads to use for skin diagnosis. “Everything that we have done is designed to simplify and make the shopping experience easier, and make it very obvious to the customer to find the solution they are looking for. No matter how someone wants to shop our line, we are providing that information to them,” said Michelle Taylor, ceo of Kate Somerville. “It’s easy for a customer to shop unassisted, and it’s easy for the customer to shop with the skin-health expert who is our beauty adviser in the store.”
Although The Americana at Brand store doesn’t have Nordstrom’s full complement of beauty services, it does have what Aveda dubs an experience center. Martin Kaufmann, general manager for North America at Aveda, said, “We have built into the locations a styling chair. It is really a chair where you sit down, and
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you have a mirror. You can try products out, and they will be explained to you. It is really a consultation chair.…We see absolutely great engagement.” Building upon its service model, Nordstrom is installing a service area it has named Oasis in the new beauty departments. Oasis is a space where brands “could just do mini services on the floor, like a blowout or nails or mini facials,” said Lionello. “Again, we’re trying to give that experience across all brands to our customers and really opening up for our salespeople to serve the customer in the way she wants to be served.”
Even as Nordstrom adopts some open-sell methods, brands are adamant that those methods not detract from the department store’s strong service component. Alexandre Choueiri, general manager of International Designer Collections at L’Oréal USA Luxe, a division that includes Giorgio Armani Beauty and YSL Beauty, said, “We understand the importance of limiting the barriers and increasing customer’s engagement and access to merchandise. However, this can only work as long as we upgrade the level service around open sell. Luxury buyers are, of course, after freedom of choice, but they also consistently ask for more brand expertise, more educated staff on our brands, better service around the products, etc. We do not see open sell as a winning model by itself for our brands.”
If there are fears that sales will dip at the new Nordstrom beauty departments, Valencia suggested they are unfounded. She said that Bobbi Brown was concerned that sales of its skin care, which requires more assistance than color cosmetics, might drop if fewer customers received assistance from salespeople, but the opposite has been the case. “We actually had double-digit growth in skin care, and that was a testament to the system being easy to navigate,” she said. Overall, she added, “We have seen a nice increase in business since we put in this installation.” Valencia reasoned the increase might be because “you can really service multiple customers easier than a traditional environment, which is one-on-one.”
Nordstrom’s cosmetics business generated revenues of $1.255 billion in 2012, $1.106 billion in 2011 and $972 million in 2010. For those years, its revenues amounted to 11 percent, 11 percent and 10 percent of Nordstrom’s net sales, respectively. Those percentages made it the fifth-largest segment at Nordstrom following women’s apparel, shoes, men’s apparel and women’s accessories.
Napoleon Perdis, whose namesake cosmetics brand is carried at select Nordstrom doors, believes Nordstrom’s new beauty concept will boost performance because it creates a better, more relaxed environment to shop in. “The future of cosmetics is in subtle differences that allow you to feel like you are at home. The concept doesn’t meander you too much. You can quickly know where things are. There was a period where retailers tried to get you to meander everywhere,” he said, emphasizing, “Department stores are as relevant today as they were. They just need to go through changes and this Nordstrom store [with the new beauty department] embraces those changes.”
Desazars and Kaufmann agree the new beauty department has a bright future at Nordstrom. Desazars said, “The department store needs to evolve as the consumer embraces new ways of shopping. Their new concept is based on the feedback they received from consumers, and I think it will only help us and them be more successful.” And Kaufmann concluded, “I am very confident that it is a move in the right direction for Nordstrom.” The key points made in this article are that Nordstrom is stepping up to the plate and they’re ready to hit a home run. With the new concept of letting the customers have a DIY experience will set them apart from their competitors. This new aspect to their stores will draw in a different and more “excited to shop” customer base.
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Entry #2 The Wall Street Journal - December 8, 2013
Nordstrom Considers Opening a Store in Queens Fashion Giant is Bursting Onto the New York Retail Scene By ROLAND LI Nordstrom Inc. is close to signing a lease for a Nordstrom Rack in Flushing, Queens. It would be the fashion giant's latest deal as it muscles its way into the New York retail scene. Nordstrom Rack, the discount division of the Seattle-based company, is in late-stage negotiations to open a store at the Shops at SkyView Center, an 800,000-square-foot mall in Flushing, according to people familiar with the matter. The store would be the first in Queens for Nordstrom, which also has announced plans recently for two Nordstrom Racks in Brooklyn and its first full-line store in New York on West 57th Street. "We see a lot of opportunity in New York City," Colin Johnson, a spokesman for Nordstrom, said last week. He declined to comment on the pending Queens deal. Nordstrom may move into the SkyView Center in Flushing, Queens. Claudio Papapietro for The Wall Street Journal Terms of the deal weren't available. But Brooklyn's two Nordstrom Racks are in the 33,000- to 41,000-square-foot range. If the lease is signed, it would be the latest sign that Flushing is taking an upscale turn thanks to the growing buying power of the city's Chinese population. For decades, the neighborhood has been known for ethnic foods and small businesses. Lately the area has seen rising real-estate prices, a surge in development and growing demand for retail space by national chains. Rents for top-quality retail can be over $75 a square foot and top condos are fetching prices of over $1 million. The average sales price for northeast Queens homes, an area that includes Flushing, rose 5.7% to $475,179 in the third quarter of 2013, compared with same period in 2012, according to a report by brokerage Douglas Elliman. The number of sales in the third quarter rose 47% to 1,011, compared with the prior year. Flushing has overtaken Manhattan's Chinatown as a destination for Chinese immigrants. The Chinese population in Flushing rose 93% to 33,526 from 2000 to 2010, according to census data, making it the second-largest Chinese community after Sunset Park. In the same period, Manhattan Chinatown's Chinese population fell 17% to 28,681.
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Dian Yu, executive director of the Flushing Business Improvement District, said newcomers are fueling retail activity in Flushing and even filling up daily buses that transport shoppers to suburban malls. "Recent immigrants from China have spending power," said Mr. Yu. The surge in demand for retail space and condos is particularly good news for the owner of the SkyView, a venture led by Onex Real Estate Partners, OCX.T +0.56% a division of Toronto-based private-equity firm Onex Corp. The mall is part of a $1 billion retail and condo development that ran into financial problems during the early years of the downturn. In recent years, condo deals have rebounded. The building completed sales earlier this year of the 448 units in its first phase at prices from $375,000 to $1.3 million, according to real-estate industry executives. Phase two of the SkyView residential project calls for an additional 800 residential units. SkyView's retail space also is mostly rented. The Nordstrom Rack would join stores like Marshalls, Target and Old Navy. SkyView's outlook was much darker before the region's economy began to recover from the downturn. Originally the lead developer was Muss Development Co. But a cash crunch led to delays, tensions with buyers who had put down deposits and a restructuring in which Onex took control, according to people familiar with the matter. Muss and Onex declined to comment. As Flushing rebounded in the past two years, the area also has attracted other big names in real estate. In October, TDC Development Corp. and the Rockefeller Group filed permits for a longdelayed $850 million mixed-use property called Flushing Commons, which would be built on a Flushing parking lot. The Related Companies and Sterling Equities are set to begin construction on a $3 billion mixeduse development at Willets Point, near Citi Field. Related also was hired by Onex to manage the SkyView complex. Nordstrom eyed the New York market for more than two decades but for years never made a commitment. That began to change in 2010 when it opened its first New York store, a Nordstrom Rack, in Union Square. Nordstrom Rack stores "tend to be in strong, thriving retail mix locations," said Mr. Johnson. Nordstrom also is planning to its Manhattan flagship store in the base of a skyscraper development being planned by Gary Barnett's Extell Development Co. at 217 W. 57th St. Nordstrom is expanding its business to the New York area. Although they have yet to open a department store in the area, Nordstrom is starting small with it’s Nordstrom Rack stores. This will open New York customers eye’s to what Nordstrom is all about.
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Entry #3 Vogue - December 3, 2013
It's Official: Cool Girls Wear Glasses On Monday night, Warby Parker celebrated its new collaboration with stylist Leith Clark—a collection of retro-inspired, whimsical frames of which a percentage of sales will benefit the United Nations Foundation Girl Up, which works to empower adolescent American girls to become advocates for health care and education issues worldwide. Actress Zoe Kazan co-hosted the dinner with Clark and also appeared in a short film, shot by photographer Pamela Hanson, in which she asked a group of girls from ages three to thirteen what they’d like to be when they grow up. Among answers that included “marine biologist” and “scientist,” one particularly young charge said she’d like to be a peacock. Then she smooshed a pair of Leith x Warby Parker frames against her face and, one can only assume, went off to start ruling the world. In honor of her confidence, and the stylishness of Clark’s new collection, Vogue.com presents a few of our favorite girls in glasses.
Whether the frames are real or fake, they instantly make one who wears them feel more powerful. Faux frames have been very successful in sales in the past few years because young, style savvy shoppers have been leaning toward more of a hipster and pinup looks. These glasses complete those looks.
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Entry #4 !
Fashion Observation
Fashions trends from Fall 2012 to Fall 2013 haven’t changed very much. For example, the colors Black & Blue were HUGE in both seasons, Winter White made an appearance in both seasons and Jumpsuits also made appearances in both seasons.
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Entry #5 !
3 Dominant Trends
Upon shopping at Urban Outfitters, trends I spotted were: The Fair Isle Sweater: Throughout the store there were many variations of this sweater. The silhouettes varied from the slouchy boyfriend, classic fits for crew sweaters and cardigans, straight tunic shapes, the square and wide shape sweater. It was the details that set these items apart. The details varied from bold monochrome, curved yokes, simple integral pocket details, wide and funnel necks update oversized boyfriend shapes. Asteroid Green: This color was prominent throughout the entire store, but more specifically in the men’s department. With its vivid, jewel-like quality, this depth of color is ideal for winter looks, especially for knitwear, while adding intensity to outerwear and tailoring Mixed Metals: In the accessories department, mixed metals were shown throughout out all types of jewelry. The metals used were brass, gold, copper, rose gold, silver, pewter, platinum and steel.
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Entry #6 WGSN Trend Reports
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Entry #7 A Fabric Trends
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Brushed and printed performance soft shell 100% Polyester Asia
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Quick Drying Fabric 60% Flycool nylon, 40% Sorona Taiwan
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Plaid 93% polyester, 7% rayon Scotland
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Entry #7 B !
Color Trends Pale Blue: Topshop
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Damson: Urban Outfitters
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Rogue Pink: H&M
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Entry #8 !
WGSN Global Trends
Plaid knit is now trending in China. Plaid was a big trend is the US during the 90’s. And more recently, trends from the 90’s are coming back into play. Designers that are using this trend are Betsey Johnson and Topshop.
! Back-words are a current global trend. The influence behind this trend is hand-drawn statements. The slogans are moody and rebellious, which appeals to younger girls in the US. Stores that carry this trend are Pacsun, Forever 21 and Urban Outfitters.
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Bewitched looks are emerging globally in Women’s Wear. It’s a lighter take on Gothic looks that have been scene in past seasons. In this trend you’ll find pointed shoes, oversized belts and pentegrams. You can find this trend at Urban Outfitters.
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Entry #9 Visual Displays
I really love these Topshop displays because of the usage of color. It really catches the eye of a perspective shopper and will instantly bring them into the store, or if the are already in the store, they will be attracted to that item.
I really liked these displays at Anthropologie because there is a very homey feel. The colors around the apparel are light and refreshing drawing your eyes to the bright pops of color. 
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Entry #10 !
Catching Fire Fashion Trends
In the recent film, Hunger Games: Catching Fire, the fashion is bursting to life. Catching Fire is a movie about the game of survival in an post apocalyptic American. The fashion trends are shown through warrior-like apparent. Trends that I feel will become more prominent in the industry is laser-cut leather, streamlined silhouettes and dramatic evening wear. Other trends that I already see happening are in makeup. There are a lot of bold metallic looks happening since the movie has premiered.  
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Entry #11 Designer review
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Betsey Johnson’s 2014 Spring/Summer Collection is all about swimwear. The swimsuits are all extremely appealing to any body shape, with high waisted bottoms and a large range of top styles. This line would most likely be available at Macy’s or Nordstrom’s swimwear department.
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Entry #12 Buyer:
Career Description
• Negotiating prices (so the store doesn’t get ripped off) • Ensuring the products are delivered on time • Helping to interpret reports and predicting future sales • Pitching ideas to senior management • Stock control • Budgeting • Reacting to any changes in customer demand • Maintaining relationships with existing suppliers while seeking new ones • Attending trade events • Getting feedback from customers • Selecting new products and reviewing the old • Finding the right suppliers Designer: •
Producing concepts
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Making sketches by hand or on the computer
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Developing patterns
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Overseeing production
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Analyzing trends in fabrics, colors and shapes.
Product Development Manager: • Continue to learn and perfect product development skills • Oversee development projects assigned by manager and create new ideas not shown by suppliers. • Oversee brand specific product development meetings • Oversee development timelines; launch on a timely manner • Meet gross margins goals • Develop relationships with existing and new suppliers • Research and suggest possible new suppliers • Travel domestically and internationally for on-site approvals when necessary. • Attend trade shows
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Entry #13 !
Fashion DON’TS
DON’T: Wear tights as pants. Tights are an accessory and wearing them doesn’t give you an excuse to still wear your summer clothing.
! ! ! ! ! DON’T: Let a patten suck you in. If the pattern is too big, then you are lost in the outfit.
! ! ! ! ! DON’T: Go designer crazy. A designer piece is a great statement, but your whole outfit should never consist of the same logo.
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Entry #14 Possible Career Opportunities Visual Merchandising Manager at Rag & Bone This career position would be a great fit for me because I already have experience in the Visual Merchandising field while I worked at Nordstrom Topshop. I believe that this is one of my strong suits in the fashion industry. Associate Vice President of Visual Merchandising at Henri Bendel Again, I believe that Visual Merchandising is one of my strong suits. Henri Bendel has always been a dream company that I’ve wanted to work for. I would be a great fit for this position because I have strengths in Visual Merchandising and great knowledge of Henri Bendel as a company. Creative Director, Digital Content at Victoria’s Secret
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This position is a great fit for me because it is with a company that I am extremely passionate about and specializing in something that I am exceptionally talented in.
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