Task 1- Research into Digital printing and laser cutting Tammy Barry-murphy
Digital Printing
“Is enabling creative individuals to get their ideas out and on to fabric,� Danielle Locastro, Director of Operations for New York and Los Angeles-based digital fabric printer First2Print http://www.fashionising.com/industry/b--digital-printing-and-fashion-23077.html Digital printing is a process in which prints are directly applied to fabrics with printer. Designers generally now work with Digital technology such as Photoshop and Digital photography, so digital printing tends to work best to complete the process. Digital printing allows for precise printing, and intricate and extremely detailed printing, therefore there was a huge need for it in the fashion industry for prints to progress and evolve.
Alexander McQueen along with Issey Miyake were both one of the first designers to use digital printing in their collections. To the left: Alexander Mcqueen dress Spring 2010
Ellie Saab uses beautiful feminine floral prints and pastel colours
Peter Pilotto and Mary Katrantzou are from a new generation of designers using computer graphics to add energy to their prints http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/2010spring-summer/digital-prints/gallery/412119
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/ 2010-spring-summer/digital-prints/gallery /417502
CAD software ( Adobe photoshop/illustrator/creative apps All of the above software programmes are some variance of COMPUTOR AIDED DESIGN. CAD is used to aid designers in creating and adapting images through various software applications. They allow the creation of endless varieties of design and enable pattern repeat. They are hugely important because of the ability to save time for example, technical drawings. Certain programs have vast support for graphic file formats. Certain apps are also available such as ‘My wonderful world of fashion’ which is a textile design app, among many other apps such as Instaeditor, instagram, which allow you to change filters, and colours etc.
CAD Photoshop illustrator, design apps
Advantages •Most of the programs allow to store the file you have worked on a computer. •Design timescales can be reduced •You can reuse your designs •Errors can be easily corrected •You can send/receive designs you make by email • CAD and similar programmes as above can aid creativity •Some of the apps are free or very low cost, and are convenient because you can use the from your phone, and they are easy to use Disadvantages •CAD software consumes large amounts of computer processing power. •Very complex to use •Expensive to buy the software therefore not available to everyone •If any system crashes work could be effected •Time and cost of training people to use. •Most of the creative apps available do not look or produce as professional work as Photoshop and illustrator etc.
Digital printing
Advantages •Symmetrical design can be achieved •It allows the designer to be more creative •The production rate is fast •Textile waste is reduced •Small runs can be done of each design ie-Just a yard •There are not many limitations with Digital designs •Money is saved due to the fact human resources needs are reduced due to it being a mostly computerised process
Disadvantages •The initial set up costs are expensive • There are also Costs of training somebody to operate the machine •Although you can create a unique design, because of the mass production, it would not be a genuine unique one off print •Digital printing diminishes authentic work done by hand which effects jobs because human resources needs will be reduced. •What will happen to the skills of the younger generation because the need for hand skills and craftsmanship is reduced.
Evaluation DIGITAL PRINTING • •
There was definitely a need for Digital printing, because the original printing methods were limiting for examples; when done by hand you have to produce each individual screen print, this would allow for human error and colours would fade the more prints you produced. Digital printing has allowed designs to be precise, more advanced, and iconic in the sense that designers brands are not just noticed by their company logo name, but by their prints. Burberry and Missoni are great examples of this evidence, because their brand pattern/printing is as recognisable as their brand name. It is however very worrying how this will impact jobs, again because it is a computerised process, less actual manpower is required, which will lead to further job losses. What is furthermore worrying is how this will also effect third world countries who totally rely on their income from actual natural hand printed designs, because they cannot be as versatile as us in the long term and do not have the luxury of simply finding another job because their employment is already extremely limited. I think it is sad that the unique designs that come from hand printing plus their authentic look, can simply be left behind due to advancements in our technology. Hand printed designs simply cannot be replicated by digital printing. On a positive note, the possibility of digital printing ruling the market could benefit these third world countries, because maybe the demand for individual prints and hand made work may increase due to certain consumers wanting a more truly individual print that was genuinely more cultured and handmade. Therefore the value of hand made hand printed designs may rise dramatically, due to the fact it is so much more time consuming, and also due to the fact it is a genuine one off piece. Maybe in time digital prints will lose their value due to its mass market production and less individuality. Therefore the are disadvantages and advantages that will effect our industry and the industry of other countries. I personally feel that the fact that most of these ‘Originally natural processes’ are no longer hardly human involving is sad, because almost everything is becoming virtual or computerised, therefore in the long term how can young new graduating designers, relate to for example, Karl Lagerfield etc when the designs are no longer pushed for a personal print with authenticity, they are pushed off a work line in a factory with hardly any humans working in it?
Digital printing evaluation continued Digital printing has definitely advanced the possibilities in the fashion industry within printing because it has allowed for printing to be more intricate and detailed. In the long term how will this effect the industry, the economy and the younger generation? The skills of the younger generation could be reduced because the need for hand skills and craftsmanship is reduced. Jobs will be reduced because the need for human resources is reduced because it is a computerised process, so this in turn can effect our economy. Third world countries will also be effected because the hand crafted work may nolonger be sellable, but it may increase the need for the work as certain consumers may find hand crafted work more appealing because digital printing is more mass produced and less individual. Fast Fashion is becoming more popular with retailers such as Primark who are mass producing cheaper garments which are digitally printed. This in turn is leading to consumers disposing of garments quicker, which is ultimately a negative impact on the environment.
Laser Cutting •
Laser cutting is a very accurate method of cutting a variety of fabrics. It allows fine cut detailing. A high powered laser is used to achieve the technique. A powerful beam of light projected onto an area to cut fabric by vaporization. Laser cutting achieves such an intricate and precise detail. No other technique can achieve this level of detail and speed. It is more accurate and faster to perform. The need for this new technique process in the fashion industry was high, because it has allowed for totally new designs to be achieved.
Roberto Cavalli Laser cut Wedding gown. Summer 2013 Collection
014 pring 2 ana S & Gab Dolce Alexander Wang Spring summer 2013 Alexander Wang uses dramatic laser cutting techique in the style of layering and spacing in this design
Beautiful designs incorporating the Laser cutting technique
Laser cutting
Advantages •Saves company on costs because it reduces the need for man power because it is controlled by a computer. •A range of fabrics/materials can be used in laser cutting: •Ie: Cotton, latex, silk, leather, synthetic fabric, silk, polyester, linen, rubber as well as others •Quicker turn around time to conventional cutting methods •It uses less energy than other methods •The beam cuts without pressure to the fabric •Loss and waste of fabric is minimal •It is more accurate •Fabric edges are usually sealed by the heat used in this process •Designers who utilize this manufacturing method are less likely to be copied because the intricate designs are hard to reproduce. •The size of the laser can be slightly altered Disadvantages Human involvement is only usually necessary in the case of test runs and repairs. If a worker comes in contact with the laser serious burns can be caused. •When multiple layers are cut together it can fuse edges. •Not suitable for all materials/fabrics. •Jobs/man power are reduced because it is mainly computerised. •Initial start up costs are expensive. •Costs incurred by Staff training to control the computerised machine •The actual laser does need to be replaced due to wear and tear
Laser Cutting
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The Laser cutting technique has undoubtedly added a innovative unique technique to the fashion industry, which as of yet, cannot be slightly replicated with any other method, because the intricate precise detailing it creates it outstanding and very distinctive. Its purpose is served wholly because the effects and details it creates are exciting and so unique compared to any other cutting techniques. The transition between the original cutting methods used and laser cutting in the long-term will reduce jobs because less man power is required to control the laser cutting process. Although it is seen both in my opinion and the Fashion Industry as a step forward in new innovative techniques which is a step forward, it is also in my opinion a step back, because peoples jobs will be made redundant due to the lack of real man power being needed. The only time man power is needed, is when the laser cutting machine needs a test or repair, in which case can cause severe serious burns if the worker comes in contact with the beam, this seems so wrong, as it is relying on a computer to do most of the work, taking away peoples jobs, but waving them back in with a risk to their health when it suits. My research into laser cutting has enlightened me into the fact that when a new method/technique is discovered in Fashion, it is celebrated, and hugely published/advertised, but the jobs that are reduced/ended seem to be quietly brushed under the mat. Should the Fashion industry not look back to where it began when there were no computers to rely on, when Fashion was truly run by Talented fashion driven people. I feel it is sad when beginnings and roots are forgotten, but we now live in a world whereby ‘Money definitely makes the world go round’.
3D Printing The 3D printing process is really quite straight forward, the fashion designs are first made on a computer using 3D specific software for example:Pro engineer. Then, using Materialise’s technology, the designs are optimised for 3D printing. Then, it’s sent to the printer. Mammoth Stereolithography builds up the 3D print by gradually adding layer by layer to the object. UV lasers scan the design into a liquid resin that hardens wherever the laser hits and the 3D object gradually comes to life. 3D printing has allowed for new designs and structures to be achieved in the fashion industry. 3D printing allows you to develop a 3D design on your computer and print out as a 3D solid and touchable object. 3D printing has allowed the Contemporary Fashion industry to create new shapes and structures that would not usually be achieved. Many designers use 3D printing, including: Francis Bitonti, architect-turned-designer and founder of the eponymous New York luxury fashion studio. In 2013 he agreed to work with Ace Hotel New York, Shapeways and designer Michael Schmidt to build a 3D dress for burlesque dancer, Dita Von tease. Iris van Herpen has been showcasing her 3D designs since 2012 and has designed extravagant pieces fo Lady Gaga.
3D Printing
Advantages • • • • • •
Enables better quality and more precision Less waste is produced and less energy used, therefore more environmentally friendly. Quicker manufacturing time. Gives higher structural integrity and durability. Companies using 3D printed have already reported up to 70% savings Human resources costs are reduced due to most of the process being computerised.
Disadvantages • • • • •
This new process reduces jobs as less human resources are needed. The materials that are used to produce the items are limited. After further research I have discovered it is not as precise as claimed, there is still room for +/- 0.1 error. Initial cost for the machine is and printing materials are expensive Staff training costs to teach them to operate the machine is expensive.
Melbourne’s Natasha Fagg experimented with 3D printing
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Dita Von Teese wearing the 3D dress created by architect Francis Bitonti and designer Michael Schmidt. Photogr aph: Albert Sanchez/Observe r
I feel that these designs are structures rather than garments, due to there disability to fall like fabric, they just seem to sit on the body like a frame
Iris van Herpen’s 3D printed designs using Materialise
“In couture, they call this cheating,” Francis Bitonti,
3D printing your own clothing at home
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Industrial designer Joshua Harris has said that Digital printing may soon be available at home to print your own clothing, which he says may eliminate the need for washing and wardrobes! He then says after wearing the garment you can then load it back into the machine, so in effect, recycle it. The machine would break down the no longer wanted item and it will be broken down to thread then restored to the cartridge for the next time you print. How revolutionary would that be, the future is definitely slightly frightening. http://www.nanowerk.com/news2/gadg et/newsid=29612.php
3D Printing
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Evaluation
On the whole, 3D printing is a beneficial addition to the Fashion Industry, as it enables structures and shapes to be created that would not of been able to be produced without 3D printing. Once Home 3D printers are eventually more affordable, many have said ‘It will empower a new generation of designers, engineers and entrepreneurs to create their ideas’. I feel on the bigger scale, we have again failed to realise that jobs will be lost. And how will our economy be effected if consumer levels dramatically fall, due to the fact that it has been said that eventually, once the 3D printers progress, we will be able to use our 3D printers at home to create anything we want. On a safety note, one person already created a gun with a 3D printer, and it was able to actually shoot bullets, so on a bigger scale, what kind of place will our world turn into with the control we currently have ie: weapon laws etc. To contain possession of dangerous weapons in the home for anybody to use would be virtually impossible. Below is a quote from Continuum-Founder designer/technologist Mary Huang in Brooklyn “We believe that fashion should express how we live our digital lives, and that products express the process and story of their creation. We consider that the most beautiful fashion would be created entirely by robots, in an autonomous choreography, without any human labor. That is our future forward Cinderella story, and the prime motivation for our work in 3D printing” If this statement is not frightening, what is? “In couture, they call this cheating,” Francis Bitonti I agree with this statement, if a computerised machine is creating the garment, it is not a couture piece, because couture is supposed to be the creation of an exclusive custom fitted garment constructed by hand from start to finish. Therefore 3D printing kills the definition of Couture. Will 3D printing change the world of haute couture, or will 3D printing make haute couture change their policies and definitions to create a separate 3D haute couture
3D Printing
Evaluation continued •
Therefore 3D printing kills the definition of Couture. Will 3D printing change the world of haute couture, or will 3D printing make haute couture change their policies and definitions to create a separate 3D haute couture
3D Body Scanning •
A 3D body scanning machine creates a 3D body image by bouncing light onto the body using around 16 cameras to record 29+ measurements. This can ease a shoppers experience in stores who have the 3D body scanners by helping store assistants to pick out garments that will provide the best possible fit. The machines can equally be used to make made to measure clothing. Interactive pattern software is usually used when a made to measure outfit is being designed. High street stores such as Peacocks in Manchester Arndale centre is trailing the 3D body scanning machine.
3D Body scanning
Advantages • • • • •
Designers using 3D scanners benefit from accuracy and speed from the measurements taken and software used. Customer can benefit from seeing how the completed outfit will look on their figure. May reduce ‘Fitting room’ time. It reduces the need of some intimate measurements that sometimes need to be measured. which may reduce embarrassment. It enables pattern pieces to be perfectly matched, which can maximise the use of fabrics.Therefore less waste ECO FRIENDLY.
Disadvantages • • • •
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Customer does not get to feel the actual fabric Traditional people may want to actually try on the garment It may be looked upon as another gimmick Is it really as successful as it is being publicised, I read about 3D scanning being available in stores over 4 years ago, so surely within the last 4 years they should have advanced enough, and a large percentage of stores would be using them if they were so successful. The machine itself is expensive Staff will need to be trained in operating the machine, which will also be an expense.
3D Body Scanning Machines
•Daily Mail- “Finding the perfect pair of jeans is one of the most stressful shopping trips a woman has to endure, but its also one of lifes great highs when you find the jeans that fit great and look fantastic” Jane Hotz Director of Ladies wear at Peacocks
3D Body scanning
Evaluation Many say that the 3D body scanning machine is a fantastic invention, which in some ways I agree. At a cost of ÂŁ30.000 purchasing the machine can be a potential financial risk. But at the expense of purchasing the machine, would this make a huge impact on stores? I feel that designers themselves would reap the benefits more than consumers, because it would save on fabric waste, and the measuring process saves time too, as all body measurements can be taken in as little as 30 seconds. I feel the traditional feel good shoppers experience would be taken away without trying the actual clothing items on, as this is half the excitement of a shopping trip, finding the outfit. Unless the machine can be used to match garments available in store, as hinted at by the quote from Jane Hotz Director of womens wear at Peacocks. Also you cant feel the actual fabric without trying the item on, which could prove problematic, as some fabrics can be itchy, stiff, uncomfortable on the skin. Some consumers find virtual changing rooms beneficial when purchasing online, therefore in my opinion I think there should be further development and equipment and technology made to make the 3D body scanner available from home when shopping online. I think this facility would be extremely successful, and less gimmicky, because there would actually be a need for virtual fitting rooms and body scanning if you purchased online, because you could not physically try it on at home before ordering.
Customised Printing •
Customised printing allows the customer to create their own one-off design print, therefore it is a made to order. Designers such as Adidas & Nike, Brooks Brothers suits, Burberry trench coats and Longchamp bags. currently offer Customised printed products to the consumer.
Customised printing
Advantages • • • • • • •
The designs can be dramatic and very distinctive Unique selling Point - Attracts customers to design their own bespoke print The print design itself is generally limitless in possibilities of what it could be As it is made to order, there is less waste therefore it is more eco friendly. The production times are quicker due to better technology being available etc (digital printing). The quality and accuracy is usually very good Designers jobs costs are reduced, as the customer is designing their own items.
Disadvantages • • • • •
It is expensive therefore not available to everyone The range of products available for customised printing is limited. Start up costs of Customised printing are expensive Staff training to enable them to operate the customised printing machines is expensive. Human resources may be effected due to the customer designing their own item. Therefore in the long term this could effect peoples jobs
Constrvct allows much more freedom on customised printing
Mi Firebird jacket Adidas Original custom printed
Nike customised printed trainers
Customised printing
Evaluation •
Customised printing is a great way to get consumers really involved in what they would like to produce to eventually wear, which is a fantastic bespoke touch to the fashion industry. It is expensive to have a custom print carried out, with an even more expensive mark up. So I feel for the design companies, this is definitely a win win situation on revenue. Further savings are made on less human resources being needed as the customer designs the print themselves. Plus less waste is products because exact designs have already been selected. Therefore on the whole, the consumer is happy because they have created a unique piece of their own, and the design companies are happy because there is more revenue to be made on every aspect.
My Laser print design
My second Laser print design
My Digital Print
My Work - Evaluation of Laser cut process My research into the laser cut process has enabled me to complete a visually effective, intricate, detailed and accurate design. I can use the laser cut design repeatedly and it will not lose its quality therefore that is a benefit. My pattern design has allowed me to produce a unique collection which I can also combine with my digital prints to enhance my laser cut design. My inspiration for my design was from Roses because I love the intricate details of the petals and they are beautiful and feminine. I was also inspired by a real life snake for my second laser print, because I like the natural snake pattern and detail of the scales of the skin. I took a photograph of it and uploaded it onto the computer. I then had to scan the rose photograph onto the computer to digitally attach it to Adobe illustrator, because this is the only pathway to production because the laser printer program is linked to Adobe illustrator. Once both photographs were loaded onto the computer I used the pen tool to create a stencil like drawing, over the photographs, because a continuous seamless stencil drawing has to be achieved to create a successful laser print. Although unique designs can be produced, generally most of these designs are used mass market therefore they are not truly unique. Some designers do offer a truly unique authentic design were they offer design promise exclusivity, but this does come at a huge cost. CAD designs have allowed me to produce quicker designs rather than hand drawn designs. The laser process is really fast therefore my turn around time has been good, but this is not always the case. Ie - if my laser print was larger including a lot more detail, this process would of taken a lot longer, and if there are a lot of laser cuts waiting to be produced this can cause a back log, and back logs costs companies a lot of money and wasted time. Laser cutting can be combined with digital prints to enhance each other, therefore I purposely designed a specific laser cut to be used with a specific digital print.
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The laser cutting machinery is very expensive, and training for staff to use the equipment is expensive too, but once production begins and business expands, the machine will pay for itself. Due to only certain staff being trained to use the machine, if they were absent due to sickness production would stop. Also if the machine broke production would stop, therefore both of these occurrences would cost companies a lot of money in loses. My research into Laser cutting has informed me that for laser cuts to be successful the design must be continuous and stencil like. To enable transportation from original design to the laser cut process the use of Illustrator is necessary, therefore this can be looked at as a negative, or equally a positive in the fact that you will learn a new design program. In the transportation from illustrator to the actual laser cutting process, if the transition is not done perfectly the final laser cut can be distorted. This can be avoided by the laser cutting technicians ensuring the resize of images etc are done efficiently using the shift button to keep proportioning. The restrictions in laser cutting are that fabrics must be suitable, ie- light coloured fabrics are not recommended as they show where the fabric has been burnt. Secondly the fabrics must be suitable to withstand the high temperatures of the process, therefore fabrics such as delicate ones or fabrics that do not have a high melting point, are not suitable.
My Work- Evaluation of Digital Printing process •
My research into digital design enabled me to produce a series of successful experiments to then be used to complete a range of digital prints. This was done by showing me that firstly to achieve a complete digital design, the drawing that I completed had to flow to be able to achieve a flowing pattern. I also learnt the importance of selecting colours that work together. The actual printing process also has to be done precisely, ensuring heat transfer paper is used along with a good quality colour digital printer. Then finally to ensure the fabric to be printed on is smooth and crease free, and that the heat press it working correctly, and that the timings for the digital print to transfer is precise. I was inspired by butterfly's for my digital print experimentation, because again I love the beautiful natural intricate details on their wings. I hand drawn the butterfly because I wanted it to be bespoke and authentic. I then scanned the drawing onto the computer. I then manipulated and digitally enhanced it several times, using Photoshop, which enabled me to create a huge variety of patterns designs and colours etc. This is a huge benefit because it is extremely time savings to perform so many effects digitally, compared to hand drawing, because it would take so much longer to hand draw each individual drawing. Being able to change and manipulate my drawing also brings so many possibilities because Photoshop allows you to change colours tones contrasts etc and repeat pattern which is done by selecting your pattern, and defining your pattern on Photoshop, which basically allows you to paint your pattern anywhere on the screen, and allows you to change the size of the pattern and colours etc. Therefore again this is hugely time saving. I selected my final design print with ease because it was the piece that completed my natural development and experiments with my print experiments. I loved its colours and the way the pattern was fluent and natural, but still unique. My final digital design pattern also showed a clear linking with traditional and modern techniques, because the butterfly shape was authentic and delicate yet the colours and finer details of distortion and detail was modern and advanced. My digital printing design is visually effective because the detail and intricate design can clearly be seen.
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My print was successful. but a small section did not transfer the colour from the print through the heat press, therefore this is a threat that could effect flawless production, and will in turn again cost companies money because this then becomes waste. To overcome this problem the print needs to be complete and flawless. The fabric it is going to be printed on needs to be smooth and crease free, and the precise time of heat press transfer has to be recorded and carefully timed. A vast amount of designs can be made using digital printing. The process itself is fast therefore cost effective in the long term because mass amounts can be created, therefore there is a fast turn around. The equipment itself is extremely expensive, therefore start up costs are high. Over time the equipment can pay for itself quite fast through production and business growth. Staff also need to be trained to use the machine, and training costs are expensive. Individual digital prints can be created and marketed as promise of exclusivity to potential clients, which again is fast at generating revenue. On the whole digital printing is generally used to make mass market prints therefore it is not a production of unique prints. Digital printing generally does not produce hand made bespoke authentic prints. Digital prints can be combined with laser printing for extended uniqueness One of the down falls of digital printing is that quality can be lost in repetition of prints. To minimise this threat printing materials should be checked regularly. It is inevitable that print quality will always become weaker when printing materials start to reduce, therefore there will always be waste, which in turn costs companies money. Ultimately to limit miss printed digital prints, test run prints should be done. If the digital printing machine malfunctions production stops. Likewise, if trained staff are absent from work, production also stops. Both of these problems can cost companies huge amounts of money.
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My decisions on my whole collections from beginning to final collections have been made firstly on a creative level. I wanted my prints to be innovative and unique. I achieved this by all of my inspirations being hand drawn by myself. I could then ensure that the prints I was producing were definitely unique. It was also important to me to use both traditional and modern methods, so by doing the hand drawing this kept my work traditional. I used Photoshop and Illustrator to allow me to be innovative through the use of colours details distortions etc. These programs allowed me to bring the modern element of design. I selected exactly what I was going to draw to begin with, and matched them to themes and colours in my mind. My hand drawn images allowed my first designs on the computer programs to come alive because their details were so intricate to begin with that once I could enhance them with digital technology, my designs become to me, very exciting and successful. One of my first drawings was of the inside of an onion, which detailed all of its internal layers, once I enhanced the inside layers of the onion with different colours and hues, the print become a beautiful 60’s inspired print. This then inspired my garment selection to be 60’s chic inspired. As with all of my other collections, for example the roses print which I combined with my roses laser print, I had carefully selected every element of the process from the original drawing to colour selection to WGSN garment selection to digital enhancements to then final Range plan selection. I feel pleased with all of my range plans and my Final range plan, as well as all of my digital design ideas. I feel this process has enabled me to be so creative, and I have learnt so much more through my creativity and through my personal development.
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My final Fashion collection was an easy choice because I felt it had the most intricate detail, and it also showed a true link of use of both modern and tradition work. The colour selections worked beautifully and finally the garments themselves married perfectly with the patterns and colour selections I had made.
Digital prints design ideas and developments
Digital prints design boards All of these designs have been digital enhanced using photoshop, but have originally been traditional hand drawn by myself
All of these designs have been digital enhanced using photoshop, but have originally been traditional hand drawn by myself
All of these designs have been digital enhanced using photoshop, but have originally been traditional hand drawn by myself
Although I did not choose to use these selection of digital prints I designed, I wanted to include them to show all of my developed work. All of these designs have been digital enhanced using photoshop, but have originally been traditional hand drawn by myself.
This is the only print that I originally did not hand draw, I actually photographed this live snake myself then digitally enhanced my photograph to develop my digital print designs