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As El Paso’s culinary landscape continues to grow, the imprint of a local restaurateur is as recognizable as her food is cravings-inducing. Meet Tania Peregrino, Creative Director and Co-Founder of Don Carbon and Amar, who is feeding the Sun City while also fueling culinary innovation and inspiring younger generations of future restaurant owners.
Don Carbon, the Peregrino family’s restaurant that boasts tender mesquite grilled chicken, traditional sides, burgers, and more, is celebrating its 10-year anniversary in 2023 as the family reflects upon a decade of success and the work it took to achieve.
Peregrino, her father Humberto, mother Gysel, and brother Kevin have been in the kitchen, managing employees, and enthusiastically greeting customers from Don Carbon’s original location while the business expanded to more than five locations that span from Horizon to the Upper Valley over the last decade.
For the Peregrino family, feeding the community’s appetite for quality food that embodies the culture is a main ingredient.
“El Paso is a very important metroplex in many aspects because of the eclectic blend of two wonderful cultures,” says Peregrino. “Everything in our city is special, our food, slang, our weather, which is always a surprise. It’s never boring, but most important is our people: I have lived in other cities and all I can say is that El Paso is like a warm hug. For some reason we all come back to El Paso, and I’m extremely grateful to our community for the immense support we have received with our projects.”
Peregrino wasn’t always a culinary-minded businesswoman overseeing an empire of restaurants across the Borderland.
She’s a talented artist and avid traveler who brought her skills back home to El Paso after attending art school in L.A. and was excited to bolster her hometown. She’s the creative force behind the artwork found at Don Carbon, including the restaurant’s iconic upsidedown chicken illustration, who has harnessed her savvy to draw in customers -- but it’s her love of life that keeps them coming back for more.
In “Embodying Food Studies: Unpacking the Ways We Become What We Eat,” scholar Darcy A. Freedman explains the basic human need for food that not only nourishes and maintains the body, but also impacts our social worlds.
“Food is more than a compilation of vitamins and nutrients; it is physical and social, personal and political, and inanimate yet animating,” asserts Freedman.
Food scholars like Freedman explore the phenomena of food practices that shape our lives from preparation to consumption to embodiment; from the choices we make by selecting an item on a menu to the energy and sensations we receive once nourished.
In short, the joy of eating is worth examining and indulging.
The dynamics of food were top-of-mind for Peregrino when developing the menu and aesthetics for her foray into fine dining, Amar, located on North Mesa across from UTEP’s Don Haskins Center.
Food is more than a compilation of vitamins and nutrients; it is physical and social, personal and political, and inanimate yet animating.
According to Texas Monthly:
“Amar means ‘to love,’ and the family behind this restaurant lovingly merge the flavors of Peru and Mexico. Begin with the Ceviche Amar: mussels, octopus, and shrimp in a leche de tigre marinade decorated with crispy calamari. Continue with the lomo saltado, chunks of beef tenderloin nestled among french fries and sautéed tomatoes and peppers. Or check out the empanadas, which come loaded with shrimp or fresh spinach. Desserts are spectacular; consider the guava cheesecake or an alfajor, a sandwich-style cookie with a filling of dulce de leche. The patio, with its tasseled shade cloth, will make you feel as if you’re on vacation.”
A scroll through Peregrino’s Instagram is a minivacation itself, showcasing exotic locations, lush plant life, and really delicious food.
“Traveling has been the best investment for my heart, mind and creative expression,” says Peregrino. “I’m an adventurous soul, I love exploring places, learning from different cultures and appreciating art in its different mediums including food.”
At Amar, the Peruvian and Mexican fusion produces a symphony of flavors with plump pieces of seafood, crisp vegetables, seasoned meats, and saucy pastas that are perfect for family-style dining or to satisfy an individual appetite.
“Just come with friends and family and share as many plates as you can!” invites Peregrino.
“We are the only Peruvian- Mexican restaurant in town and we offer a variety of rich and delicious dishes with authentic Peruvian and Mexican ingredients,” she adds.
Peregrino’s creativity as an artist shines with Amar’s aesthetics, as well as in many of the menu items like the torta de elote, a cornbread-like pastry topped with corn-onthe-cob shaped ice cream -- it’s as exquisite as it is interesting.
The enjoyment -- and embodiment -- of food and life are acts of self-care and self-love that Peregrino is ever-mindful of and looking forward to continuing to cultivate in 2023.
“To remain present daily in my own presence, cultivating self-love because, for me, self-love is the strongest foundation for everything else. I want to be a better leader for my team and my family each day and I can only accomplish that by being well, honoring my health and existence.”