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AW16 DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION Top Trends Top Brands
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PUBLISHED: 1 JUN 2015
AW16 Denim Première Vision
BY: Rosario Chan & Techatorn Sopathanundorn
Denim PV was its usual mix of newness and classics with superstretch marking the ongoing appeal of skinny, the flare bidding for trend stardom and a move towards subtlety for distressing.
TRADESHOWS DENIM
Orta Launches Vegan Denim PRODUCT NEWS DENIM 24 APR 2015
TRENDS SUMMARY
ECO FOCUS This time we saw how ‘eco’ has become an important part of denim, with innovative recycling and responsible dye processes and laundry being key.
CROPS AND FLARES With the 70s trend riding high, flare is more apparent, as is the crop in wider cuts, while the pleat front is the newest detail on wide/tapered styles.
DARK AUTUMN, NEW COATINGS Washes were dark, with black and grey reflecting seasonality, but surfaces weren’t dull as coating was key, with lots of tech innovation.
SUBTLE DESTRUCTION The heavily destroyed trend is more subtle. The newness is in raw cut, frayed and fringed denim that can be applied to all styles as an update.
STRETCH FOR SKINNIES Still evolving is the tech for super stretch, recovery and comfort, which shows the customer demand for skinny is still there as a basic wardrobe staple.
UTILITY MAKES A MARK With fashion having been focused on utility in recent seasons, it’s no surprise that the influence of the utility look is filtering through to denim too.
AW16 DENIM BY PREMIÈRE VISION TRADESHOW SECTIONS
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TRADESHOWS DENIM 01 JUN 2015
TRADESHOWS DENIM 01 JUN 2015
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TRADESHOWS HOME > Fast Fashion > Tradeshows > Denim
AW16 DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION Top Trends Top Brands
RELATED REPORTS Orta Launches Vegan Denim PRODUCT NEWS DENIM 24 APR 2015
PUBLISHED: 1 JUN 2015
AW16 Denim Première Vision Top Trends Denim PV was its usual mix of newness and classics with superstretch marking the New coating innovations, the power of fraying and fringing and the importance of ongoing appeal of skinny, the flare bidding for trend stardom and a move towards textural effects were all key trends. subtlety for distressing.
BY: Rosario Chan & BY: Rosario Chan Techatorn TRADESHOWS Sopathanundorn DENIM TRADESHOWS DENIM
NEW COATED
Coated denim was presented by all the major mills in a new way. The most important development was in anticracking when stretched, offering good recovery. Ultralightweight coatings make coated denim more versatile, as well as more comfortable for fashion styles. The use of coatings with an ombré effect and rubbed out look gives a new surface dimension. Meanwhile, the new development for knit is the coated knit and the newest application of coated is printed.
TRENDS SUMMARY
ECO FOCUS This time we saw how ‘eco’ has become an important part of denim, with innovative recycling and responsible dye processes and laundry being key. FRAYED AND FRINGED
CROPS AND FLARES With the 70s trend riding high, flare is more apparent, as is the crop in wider cuts, while the pleat front is the newest detail on wide/tapered styles.
DARK AUTUMN, NEW COATINGS Washes were dark, with SUBTLE DESTRUCTION The heavily destroyed trend is more With so much destroyed denim and ripandrepair on show, we still spotted some trend movement as a mood for more black and grey reflecting seasonality, but surfaces weren’t subtle. The newness is in raw cut, frayed and fringed denim subtlety comes into play. The frayed edge, unhemmed and raw cut detail is an easier option that works with all denim dull as coating was key, with lots of tech innovation. that can be applied to all styles as an update. garments and helps add a fashion update. STRETCH FOR SKINNIES Still evolving is the tech for super stretch, recovery and comfort, which shows the customer demand for skinny is still there as a basic wardrobe staple.
UTILITY MAKES A MARK With fashion having been focused on utility in recent seasons, it’s no surprise that the influence of the utility look is filtering through to denim too.
AW16 DENIM BY PREMIÈRE VISION TRADESHOW SECTIONS
Top Trends
Top Brands
TRADESHOWS DENIM 01 JUN 2015
TRADESHOWS DENIM 01 JUN 2015
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TEXTURE TRAIL Texture and jacquards from mainstream fashion has influenced denim. Piqué constructions on cottons and heavy, defined twills are easy fabric updates. Woven constructions and denimlook tweeds have a rustic look that tracks the emerging fashion trends of folk, boho and travel.
PLEAT FRONT After a decade of skinny being dominant, we are finally seeing new shapes emerging. The key fashion shapes are the skinny flare and culottes but it was interesting to see the pleat front making a comeback. The design is mostly seen on tapered shapes, rather than the boyfriend. Slim boyfriend looks are still important, of course, but expect to see the tapered pleat front infiltrating fashionforward lineups – as long as it gains enough consumer acceptance.
Top Trends ©Stylus Fashion 2015
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UTILITY INFLUENCE Utility has spread from mainstream fashion to impact denim with front patch and cargo pockets being the key flagwaver details for the look. Combined with sports, the utility details feel both more casual and more luxe.
KEEP IT SIMPLE With mainstream labels using denim more and more within their fashion collections, there is a trend towards the cleaner styles that have seen on some catwalks. Paris Texas captures this idea with its collection of simple denim pieces based on key silhouettes rather than on elaborate details.
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COLOUR POWER While colour may not have been the key trend story at the show, colour is still making an impact. We saw plenty of earthy, berry shades and autumnal brights, which looked particularly new for coated styles. The overall feel was that where colour was present, it was all about richness and depth.
Top Trends ©Stylus Fashion 2015
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TRADESHOWS HOME > Fast Fashion > Tradeshows > Denim
AW16 DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION Top Trends Top Brands
RELATED REPORTS Orta Launches Vegan Denim PRODUCT NEWS DENIM 24 APR 2015
PUBLISHED: 1 JUN 2015
Top Brands AW16 Denim Première Vision Our favourite companies showed new ways with stretch, went ultraeco or played with Denim PV was its usual mix of newness and classics with superstretch marking the new techniques in coating. ongoing appeal of skinny, the flare bidding for trend stardom and a move towards subtlety for distressing.
BY: Rosario Chan BY: Rosario Chan & Techatorn TRADESHOWS Sopathanundorn DENIM TRADESHOWS DENIM
CALIK DENIM
Calik showcased a number of new developments for super stretch, highlighting the enduring appeal of the skinny jean as a musthave basic. Qualities include Skin Flex, which due to the construction of the fabric, has a soft touch and is so lightweight it almost feels more like hosiery. Other super stretch qualities have modal content, which gives it extra softness and smoothness to the touch. Thin Up is another development that has super stretch and recovery but with a compact construction, ideal for “one size smaller” jeggings. Calik also produces an ecofriendly collection called Oxygene. It’s authentic denim, achieving natural indigo shades but uses less water, energy and chemicals.
TRENDS SUMMARY
ECO FOCUS This time we saw how ‘eco’ has become an important part of denim, with innovative recycling and responsible dye processes and laundry being key.
CROPS AND FLARES With the 70s trend riding high, flare is more apparent, as is the crop in wider cuts, while the pleat front is the newest detail on wide/tapered styles.
DARK AUTUMN, NEW COATINGS Washes were dark, with
SUBTLE DESTRUCTION The heavily destroyed trend is more subtle. The newness is in raw cut, frayed and fringed denim that can be applied to all styles as an update.
CONE DENIM black and grey reflecting seasonality, but surfaces weren’t dull as coating was key, with lots of tech innovation.
This year Cone Denim celebrated its 110th anniversary at the show with a collection that it says redefines contemporary STRETCH FOR SKINNIES Still evolving is the tech for super UTILITY MAKES A MARK With fashion having been focused denim qualities with new sustainable and performance characteristics. A key highlight is the innovative collection called stretch, recovery and comfort, which shows the customer on utility in recent seasons, it’s no surprise that the influence Sustainblue. It features sustainable denim with highperformance stretch and recovery, moisture management, recycled demand for skinny is still there as a basic wardrobe staple. of the utility look is filtering through to denim too. blends and treatments not traditionally available in denim. SGene is its cotton/poly/elastane woven knit that has a cleaner look and construction than other indigo knits. Another inspiring development is the company’s jersey knit made of recycled ketchup bottles. This has a red weft, while its recycled beer bottle option has a brown weft. AW16 DENIM BY PREMIÈRE VISION TRADESHOW SECTIONS
Top Trends
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TRADESHOWS DENIM 01 JUN 2015
TRADESHOWS DENIM 01 JUN 2015
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ISKO Isko had a very busy show with a wide selection of new products. Key was Isko Reform, which comes in HP or XP variants. These qualities offer power stretch claimed to really support the body and give a slimming effect. The company said authentic vintagestyle washes can also be achieved offering advanced comfort and recovery. Meanwhile, Isko Blue Skin is a highperformance denim that has what is claimed to be a revolutionary construction with 3D shaping and four way stretch, something that the buzz at the show suggests is a natural evolution for stretch developments. Finally, Isko Jeather is a coated collection with either matte or shiny qualities that are lightweight and with a soft feel.
ORTA Orta’s Vegan Denim is the first collection of denim fabrics produced on an industrial scale using vegetable and natural dyestuff. The two colours in the palette are natural indigo and tan, with the tan colour achieved using the dry part of acorn shells. Due to the vegan methodology, Orta has been able to obtain intense shades in both colours. When the acorn and indigo dyes are combined, it produces a green cast to the denim. Orta said that Vegan Denim, when lightly treated, lends itself to a premium look for not just for jeans, but for outerwear, dresses and skirts too.
Top Brands ©Stylus Fashion 2015
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TEJIDOS ROYO The company specialises in developing premium seasonal collections with a focus on innovation and this time the story was around Hug Denim, its bistretch quality with high recovery that’s constructed with T400 by Lycra. The indigo is pure indigo and has a premium look, especially with the development of the indigo warp and weft. We also saw developments around coating at the show. Coated knit and textured coating with a leather look offered the required newness with both having great recovery and no cracking when stretched. We also saw how the effect of hand sand on coating gives a new dimension when the coating is rubbed away. Another 3D effect is printing with coating. When heat is applied, the resin gains volume and the surface design looks like a jacquard. Another highlight was the silver metallic with a tweed element that looked very fashion forward.
Top Brands ©Stylus Fashion 2015
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