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dropped to the floor, creating statuesque shapes at Saint Laurent and Rick Owens. Suits were defined by genderless, oversized blazers that hung from widened shoulders at Prada and Louis Vuitton. Lingerie dressing was toughened up with crystals and embellishments at Miu Miu and Paco Rabanne, and corsets took on protective forms at Christian Dior and Balmain. In many ways, fashion went back to basics—the suit, the skirt, the slip dress, and an overwhelming number of white shirts or tank tops styled with mediumwash jeans. The season was not without a little flair. The austere sweetness of Pierre Cardin’s flat bows reemerged at Jil Sander and Valentino, and designers like Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and Hillary Taymour at Collina Strada injected levity and movement into their collections with vrooming car bodies or formswallowing fringe. Even Hermès, the bastion of serious luxury, edged into kink with kneehighs and brushed wool sweaters just begging to be stroked.
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