4 minute read
VINO DELLA LIGURIA
from T Magazine No. 14
Liguria has one of the most impressive viticultures in Italy and wine making in this territory can be traced back to the Romans in ancient times. Today, Ligurian wines are praised for their premium quality and heroic wine growing.
Nestled between the mountains to the North and the Ligurian Sea to the South, the region is almost entirely hilly or mountainous, with limited available land for vine cultivation. The vineyards are often carved out of steep rocky cliffs that dramatically plunge to the sea, creating a rare scenic beauty.
The terraced vineyards make vine growing a challenge, requiring dedication and intense manual labour. Many vineyards can be reached only on foot. Harvesting is done by hand and filled crates are carried out on the shoulder.
While wine production quantity is one of the lowest in the country, the wines stand out for their appealing characteristics and pure expression of its territory. They are difficult to find in Italy, let alone outside of the country. Wine production in Liguria is concentrated along the Riviera, stretching from the northern edge of Tuscany to the French border for about 350 km. The majority (65%) of wine production is white. In a small growing area of about 1500 ha, there are 8 areas designated DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) and 4 IGT (Typical Geographical Indication).
The beautiful Ligurian landscape of mountains and sea creates ideal microclimate conditions for vine growing. The climate is mild in every season. The south facing exposure and sea breeze help mitigate temperatures. The Apennines and the Alps protect from the cold winds coming from the north. The vineyards are planted 200-500 metres above sea level. The high altitude contributes to considerable day-night temperature variation, favouring slow maturation and ripening of the grapes, promoting intense and concentrated aromatic profiles.
The Grape Varieties
Winemaking in Liguria is deeply rooted in its territory, history and traditions. It is not surprising that Liguria has a rich patrimony of indigenous grape varieties.
Pigato
Pigato is the most famous of the native white grape varieties. The name is derived from the Ligurian expression “picau” which means speckled, as the grapes appear when they are fully ripe. The wines express the Ligurian terroir, deriving minerality from the limestone rich soils and sea salt aromas from the Mediterranean Sea.
Rossese
The most important indigenous red variety is Rossese. The variety produces light structured, fresh and fruit driven wines with floral, spice and Mediterranean scrub aromas.
Azienda Agricola Bruna is a small and authentic winery with 7.5 hectares of terraced vineyards,15 km from the Mediterranean Sea. Dedicated to organic cultivation, wine making methods are simple and traditional. The wines are natural and elegant and considered among the best of the region. The production is small and we are privileged to share Ligurian wines from Bruna in Ontario.
2021 ‘Bansigu’ Rosso Colline Savonesi IGT, Bruna
Minimum 70% Grenache blend. Cherry red with deep and intriguing notes of wild rose, strawberry tree, plum and aromatic herbs. Racy on the palate, savoury on the finish, balanced with bright acidity. Balsamic notes on the nose and palate round out the glass. Bansigu, the Ligurian dialect word for “swing”, is a red, Mediterranean-style wine.
Pairing: pasta dishes with meat sauce and red meats.
2021 Majè Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, Bruna
Made with 100% Pigato. Bright straw yellow, with a complex aromatic nose, delicate floral and fruity notes of yellow peach and citron citrus, along with herbal Mediterranean scrub. Fresh and savoury on the palate, extremely pleasant and elegant. “Majè” is the local name for vineyards terraced with stone.
Pairing: pasta with pesto, fish and vegetable dishes made with herbs.
2019 Rossese Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, Bruna
Made with 100% Rossese. Light ruby red with vibrant aromas of wild strawberries and raspberries. Light bodied and juicy with a pleasant almond note on the palate. Delicate tannins and easy drinking. Best enjoyed chilled.
Pairing: tomato based pastas, pizza, white meat and fish based dishes.
Wines are available by the glass at Terroni, Sud Forno & Spaccio locations and by the bottle at our Bottle Shops.
Shop by the case online at cavinona.com