Jock Safari Lodge, a safari par excellence

JOCK SAFARI LODGE 08 responsible traveller

a safari experience, par excellence ...in more ways than one

TThe headlights reveal an indistinct shape in the darkness ahead. As the inky darkness dissipates the determined stride of an elusive feline becomes apparent. It was our last morning game drive and the sight of her made the early wake-up call worthwhile. We followed slowly for a while, but she soon slipped into the grass – had she not been walking in the road we would have driven straight past. Such is the nature of game drives.

I was spending a few days at the luxurious Jock Safari Lodge, a private concession within the Kruger National Park, nestled at the confluence of the Mitomeni and Biyamiti rivers. Jock was in fact the first private concession to be awarded within the Park and is named after the legendary Jock, the canine hero in Sir Percy FitzPatrick’s book, Jock of the Bushveld - a story of courage and loyalty set during South Africa’s first gold rush era.

This wonderful story permeates much at Jock Safari Lodge, from the life-size sculpture of the fearless Jock giving a treacherously horned sable antelope a run for his money, to the wonderful selection of original memorabilia on display as well as a nod to Sir Percy’s wagon driver and proud Zulu warrior, Jim, with the upstairs bar being named after him.

The getting here was easy with a direct Joburg-Skukuza Airlink flight followed by an informative game drive to the lodge with safari guide, Ike. Main Jock Lodge comprises twelve secluded thatched suites all set within the well-treed grounds, with reed walls and lush vegetation ensuring privacy. My suite is breathtakingly, with a king-size bed dressed in crisp white linen and a soft draping of mosquito net.

A gentle breeze and dappled sunlight stream into the room, a bottle of bubbly waits expectantly in an ice bucket. The soft natural tones of the décor complement the setting perfectly. I step onto my private deck, complete with claw-foot bath for romantic under-thestars-bathing, plunge pool and Sala – the outdoor day bed offering the perfect spot for birdwatching or to read the well-loved copy of Jock that I find in my suite.

I drag myself away from my beautiful suite and head to the main dining area for lunch, only to be distracted by the expansive views over the Biyamiti riverbed and a pair of saddlebilled storks hunting for a tasty treat in a pool nearby. After a light salad lunch and chilled Chardonnay, we slowly make our way to reception to meet Jan our game ranger.

This is Big Five territory, so we were wildly expectant…

A rhino midden shows evidence of fresh activity, the dry riverbed criss-crossed with spoor – a veritable highway for buffalo, antelope, and a host of other game. I am delighted to spot a juvenile ground hornbill.

Jan tells us that ground hornbills are under threat and that there are two active nest sites in the large jackalberry trees (Diospyros mespiliformis) that grow on the riverbanks. As part of the Ground Hornbill Project, camera traps have been installed at these nesting sites and all the activities, habits and aspects of the hornbill’s life have been recorded, from mating to the fledglings leaving the nest. I scan the trees, but to no avail.

Jan finds a vantage point and sets up the drinks table. With G&T in hand I watch the sun slip below the horizon, a marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea) a dramatic silhouette against the burnt orange of the sky. A full moon slowly rises, and we watch a herd of elephant slip quietly into the gloom.

Dinner in the boma later that evening was a festive affair, with South African wine flowing, a great selection of African inspired cuisine accompanied by great conversation and much laughter.

Growing up my Mom had always told me that ‘the early bird captures the worm’ – her attempt at getting a teenager to leap out of bed early and make the most of the morn. She would have been proud of the enthusiasm I exhibit when an early game drive beckons. I am already awake when Jan gives me the agreed upon 4am wake-up call, dressed in two ticks, armed with camera and binoculars I head to the dining area for coffee and homemade rusks.

We head through the concession, into the main Kruger Park area. A delight at this early hour of the morning as it is well before the crowds arrive. The sun is just a promise on the horizon when we spot lion in the distance. A male and three females. We spend a good hour watching as they enjoy the warmth of the tar road, quite oblivious to our presence bar the occasional glance and flick of the tail. As the sun begins to rise, so does their interest, the one lioness giving us a determined, ‘are you breakfast?’ kind of stare. I am glad to be in the safety of a game viewing vehicle.

They eventually rise and saunter down the road. Ears perk up, there are impala ahead… will there be action? We wait with bated breath. The lionesses engage tactical mode, each heading according to a preassigned plan. The impala scatter to safety and the sauntering continues. In a way I am quite relieved.

A quiet private road beckons and we are rewarded by a herd of elephant crossing in front of us, the little ones scurrying between a forest of legs. They quickly melt into the bush.

During our coffee and cookies break, Jan explains that as part of the unofficial antipoaching team Jock vehicles are allowed on some of the private roads as additional eyes and ears. And while conservation within the Kruger Park is the responsibility of SANParks, it is also supported by the Jock Environmental Monitoring Unit (JEMU), a small non-combative monitoring unit that provides the section rangers with current, accurate information on suspicious activity in the area, as well as environmental incidences.

Breakfast is a relaxed affair. Fresh fruit, pancakes, and a continental spread fit for a king. The bubbly is chilled and the coffee brewing, a waitress discusses the hot breakfast options with us. Blessing and his team certainly know how to keep their guests satisfied.

Coffee in hand, I head up to the bar, ‘Upstairs at Jim’s’, to meet with Jock Safari General Manager, Louis Strauss.

Sitting amidst memorabilia of the bygone days of gold diggings, big game hunters and intrepid explorers, Louis tells me of the history of the region. When adventurers like Irish born FitzPatrick traversed the rugged Lowveld and escarpment and crossed what is now the Kruger National Park, to the exotic African port of Delagoa Bay (now known as Maputo in Mozambique).

Percy FitzPatrick, ably assisted by his constant companion Jock, transported provisions from the coast to the gold-digging villages. Ox wagons trundled over rugged hills and across plains, whilst crocodile infested rivers, malaria carrying mosquitoes and man-eating lion were outwitted. They hunted for the pot and slept under a star-studded canopy, the African sky.

Putting nostalgia aside, Louis tells me that Jock Safari Lodge is owned by the non-profit CALEO Foundation, whose aim is to preserve and protect the 6000ha’s which make up the concession. Remaining true to the overall conservation ethic of the Caleo Foundation and in order to preserve this unique heritage for future generations, Jock is committed to maintaining a low impact on the environment and was built on the existing footprint of an old bush camp following stringent ecomanagement criteria. Bi-annual auditing by Kruger National Park and DEAT (Department of Environment and Tourism) ensure continued adherence.

Our conversation moves to antipoaching and the scourge it is to wildlife and tells me more about JEMU. Not only do they assist with antipoaching monitoring, but they also support teams of conservationists in managing the rhino poaching crisis as well as providing a variety of much-needed supplies such as GPS equipment, camera technology and water supplies to both man and dog during operations.

Conservation is high on the agenda too, with several research projects operating within the concession. One of these being the Savanna Vulture Project. The Kruger National Park is home to five species of vulture: the lappetfaced vulture, Cape vulture, white-headed vulture, hooded vulture, and the white-backed vulture, all of which are on the endangered or critically endangered list. The project assessed the population status, breeding success and survival of these vulture species in the Park, the results of which have assisted in guiding conservation actions for these birds in Southern Africa.

Louis tells me about the Percy FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology who in a 2011 monitoring project, in collaboration with HawkWatch International and the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), identified a whopping 60% decrease in the martial eagle population. To lose these incredibly majestic large raptors would be a tragedy indeed.

Thirty of the 66 tree top nests identified throughout the Park were monitored through digital cameras and GPS tagging. And recently

Jock sponsored a GPS tag which was deployed on an adult female – it will be interesting to follow her progress as she continues to contribute to research and conservation.

In addition to the Black Rhino Guardian Programme and Lion research into the impact of bovine tuberculosis on the lion populations within the Kruger, Jock, due to its location, has also been able to support the EWT’s African Wild Dog research through camera traps set up on the Concession.

A species that has continues to elude me on every visit to Kruger is the wild dog - also known as the African hunting dog, Cape hunting dog, African painted dog, painted hunting dog and painted wolf.

These dogs have disappeared from much of their former range due to habitat loss, diseases like rabies and distemper and persecution by human beings and are now classified as endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Wild dogs have often been branded as merciless, cruel, and indiscriminate killers and considered as vermin, but through research and education many of these prejudices have now been dispelled. People, and the local community matter at Jock, so much so that in addition to the 95% of staff that come from the poor communities located on the western boundary of 20km of Kruger, they have been instrumental in establishing and supporting a number of local entrepreneurs.

One of these is Florence Bila, who has worked at Jock since 2005 and now, through her business Bila Baking, bakes approximately 60kg of assorted cookies and rusks for the lodge every month. Thoko Khoza was able to start her business, TT Sewing, when Jock purchased a sewing machine for her so that she could supply the table linen for the lodge. Another is George Makhubela, who has worked as maintenance supervisor at Jock since 2002, and now with his waste -recycling enterprise collects, sorts, and removes recyclable waste from the lodge to the recycling depot in Malelane. Each of the entrepreneurs supports and gives back to their local community in a variety of ways – with George taking great pleasure in buying food and blankets for the homeless in Malelane.

Jock also supports a number of businesses in the community, such as the taxi business that, in addition to transporting staff to and

from the lodge, offers a valuable service within the community; Josiah Ndlovu who sources firewood for the lodge (being a concession, the collection of indigenous wood for burning is forbidden); and Sibongile Nkosi, who supplies traditional brooms for use by Jock Safari groundsmen. An often-overlooked benefit of supporting local is the additional employment that it creates – each person employed generally supports about 10 people.

Creating opportunities for learnership and selfdevelopment is another way of contributing to local communities. Starting with programmes to bring kids from local schools into the reserve for a day during quite periods enabling them to understand the value of conservation and wildlife tourism.

As Nobel Peace Laureate Wangari Muta Maathai says, ‘You cannot protect the environment unless you empower people, you inform them, and you help them understand that these resources are their own, that they must protect them.’

A recent development is an official long-term partnership with the Wilderness Foundation Africa to further conservation education and youth development within the broader community of the Kruger National Park. These range from anti-poaching and large landscape wilderness management, to developing young leaders from disadvantaged communities for a career in conservation.

“Have you met Ike?” Louis asks. And proceeds to tell me his story… Ike Mkansi joined Jock in January 2014 as a barman. And true to Jock’s philosophy of promotion from within he was soon promoted to Food and Beverage Supervisor, followed by a move to Assistant Food and Beverage Manager. Aware that Ike’s passion was for the bush Jock enabled him, through their learnership programme, to join the Eco Ranger Academy to complete his National Certificate in Tourism Guiding. With his great smile and passion for the bush he was a great introduction to our Jock Safari experience.

Another success story is that of Head Chef Sam Mkhatshwa, who started at Jock in 2001 as a junior chef, a job that sometimesincluded washing pots! He is now the master mind behind much of the delectable safari cuisine and is a great inspiration to his team, uplifting and motivating them to maintain the consistently high standard of safari dining I had become accustomed to.

Seeing Sam at the braai (barbeque) I know that our lunch was in capable hands – being a dab hand at the braai, he soon had chicken kebabs and steak sizzling to perfection. A marvellous spread of salads, freshly baked bread and a delicious broccoli soup sealed the deal.

The diversity of fauna and flora in the concession attracts an abundance of bird species, especially during the summer months, which is a delight for birdwatchers. Regularly seen on the concession are raptors such as the martial, tawny and fish eagles, as well as steppe buzzards, along with a wide variety of bushveld birds. The tranquil atmosphere and wooded surroundings at the lodge allows for unique birding opportunities – all one must do is take the time to slow down, listen and begin

‘The wildlife in this region of Kruger National Park is wonderfully diverse. From herds of elephants and the occasional rhino, to lions, leopard, hyena, and wild dog....’

to truly observe. Commonly seen are hornbills, starlings, boubou’s, shrikes, and woodpeckers to name but a few.

The wildlife in this region of Kruger National Park is wonderfully diverse. From herds of elephants and the occasional rhino, to lions, leopard, hyena, and wild dog. A wide variety of antelope from kudu with their magnificently stately horns, to herds of impala and cute, but skittish duiker. Giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, and buffalo, sometimes as a herd but more often as lonesome dagga boys. a challenge. So far, we had ticked off elephant, rhino (never divulge their physical location, and please remember to remove the geotagging option on your photos) and lion. Jan suggested we head south for the buffalo, and maybe we will be lucky and spot leopard and possible even hyena.

We see plenty of zebra, wildebeest, and more ground hornbill. A couple of dagga boys give us ‘the look’ and we get excited about a leopard relaxing in a faraway tree – barely visible through binoculars, so does it actually count? With darkness settling in our search turns to nocturnal creatures. A nightjar on the road ahead of us tempts fate, taking flight at the last

moment, we spot the night-shine eye reflection of plains game, a fleeting glimpse of an eagle owl as it takes flight and two hyena in the gutter alongside the road.

Well wined and dined, and Big Five ticked, I decide to make the most of my last night and sleep in my sala - not quite beneath the starts, but almost. Feeling quite safe under the net covering I listen to the sounds of the wild. The smooth rhythmical sound of the nightjar and the distant ‘whooping’ call of the spotted hyena, to the screeching sound of a resident barn owl, which eventually has me packing up and heading indoors. The nearby roar of a lion makes me justified in my decision.

The highlight of our safari experience comes early the next morning after another bright and early wake-up call… a leopard in the road ahead of us, the elusive feline that is a highpoint of any safari.

She moves into the grass and lies down, wonderfully camouflaged, and almost out of sight. We watch and we wait. Soon to be rewarded as she lazily gets up and crosses the road in front of us, the dawn shadows still long. She pauses at a culvert, a favourite home of warthog, Jan tells us. She waits, but to no avail and gracefully moves into the bush.

We too move on, and a short distance away are rewarded by a fabulous sighting of a family of spotted hyena, the adults as ugly as ever, but the three young cubs appear exceptionally cute and cuddly. Unperturbed, the cubs lie in the road watching us with their deep dark eyes. They tire of us after a while and slink back into the bush to their den.

abrupt U-turn has us heading back to where we came from. The sun is up, and crowds have arrived, so its easy to spot where the she is. Fortunately, with Jan’s affinity to the bush and extensive knowledge he correctly assumes that she would cross the road and positions our vehicle in the perfect position.

Still on the hunt, she inspects every hole and mound of grass with interest, pausing she looks up and listens. We watch in awe as this beautiful feline walks right beside our vehicle, she attempts to cross the road but is disturbed by the traffic jam and moves back into the bush. Disappointing, on a number of levels.

We head to a rocky koppie (hill) for our coffee stop. The wide-open plains and distant hills are those that Percy FitzPatrick and Jock had traversed, and I wonder if their wagons had perhaps trudged up this very hill.

So much history, so many stories… and such a great conservation legacy. • www.jocksafarilodge.com