O L I V E R S W E E N E Y. C O M
T H E D E N I M C O L L E C T I O N
If there’s one item of clothing that’s an essential item in ever y man’s wardrobe, it’s a great pair of jeans. Like our shoes, jeans are all about the materials and the construction. Denim ages beautifully over time, so we knew our knowledge of leather patina and hand finishing could be used to create something rather special. In designing our own range of jeans, we looked to a standard five pocket style; a design that has been around for over a centur y and remains a classic. Using this as a star ting point, we have created the perfect pair of jeans featuring quality denims, a relaxed fit and a number of details that are unmistakably Sweeney. Cobbler-in-Chief
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THE CLOTH The sturdy cotton that’s used on jeans originated in the French town of Nîmes, hence the name ‘denim’. Over the year s, the manufacturing, dying and finishing of denim has seen a number of exciting innovations, but the essential characteristics (the twill weave and pigment dye) remain the same. We’ve selected three types of denim for our inaugural jeans collection, sourced from two iconic mills. Cone Denim ® Our rigid denim option is from the wor ld famous Cone Denim ® mill in Nor th Carolina, USA. A rope-dyed, stiff and durable indigo denim that is sanforized (pre-shr unk) before cutting to ensure a perfect fit. It will age beautifully with wear to give an authentic, worn look. Candiani For our selvedge options, we decided to use denim from the Candiani mill in Milan, Italy. Set up in 1938, this family r un, four th generation denim mill was one of the innovator s of stretch denim and uses a propor tion of organic cotton in its quest to work sustainably. Both our indigo stretch and black selvedge jeans have undergone a light rinse wash to soften the fabric, so they fit better from the ver y fir st wear. Check the inside pocket of your Oliver Sweeney jeans to see which denim mill we used to create your pair.
THE DENIM COLLECTION
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THE FIT Before we designed our fit, we looked at what would complement our collection of shoes and clothing best and decided something in-between formal and casual would be perfect. We wanted a fit that was comfor table to wear all day, but also look sharp and refined. With that in mind, we developed our ‘regular taper’ fit. The fit around the seat is generous and comfor table, while the shape gently tapers through the legs to the hem, producing a more elegant silhouette. The finish of the taper means that the hem will always sit perfectly above your shoes, whether it’s tailored to length or rolled. Depending on the denim, the initial fit will feel a little different. The stretch denim will have more give and comfor t, while the rigid denim will feel a little stiff to begin with, but will relax over time. Whichever denim you decide on, it will soften and mould itself to your shape, just like the cork footbed of our Goodyear Welted shoes.
Black Selvedge
Stretch Indigo Selvedge
THE DENIM COLLECTION
Rigid Indigo
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T H E H A R DWA R E An essential feature of all jeans, the hardware is a great opportunity to add our own stamp. Clever use of branding, unique shapes and finishes can transform these features into focal points of the design. Our traditionally shaped metal buttons, engraved with our distinctive OS logo, are finished with a brushed copper tint to create a stunning vintage look that works perfectly with the rich colour of our denim. Originally designed to add strength to stress points on the seams, rivets have become the defining feature of any jean. Ours share the same brushed copper finish as our buttons to add a distinctive final touch. Like our denim itself, our metal hardware will develop its own unique patina over time and look even better when it ages. Continuing
the
copper
theme
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detailing,
we’ve chosen two tones of deep copper and tobacco for our stitching. The thread colour not only matches our hardware, but links to our collection of tan and burnished tan shoes.
THE DENIM COLLECTION
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T H E L E AT H E R PAT C H When jeans were first invented, patent protection laws required the brand name, patent number, date and any trademark registrations to appear on ever y pair. Leather was chosen to display this information on because it was a durable material that could withstand the wear and tear of manual labour, as the first wearers of jeans were miners and cowboys. While the jeans customer diver sified over time, the branded, leather patch has remained a defining feature of any jean. Being a Sweeney product, we had to ensure the leather for this essential feature was of the highest quality. To reflect the casual feel and rich patina that the denim fabric will achieve over time, we decided to use oiled leather from C .F. Steads of Leeds, one of our favourite tanneries. Chosen for its rich colour, the ‘pull up’ effect of the leather means it changes tone when the oils move. This ensures that the leather will age as beautifully as the denim it is stitched to. Best of all no two leather patches will be the same due to the var ying natural characteristics of the leather.
THE DENIM COLLECTION
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T H E S W E E N E Y D E TA I L S T he Phone Pocket From the nineteenth centur y onwards, the pocket design on jeans has developed from three pockets (two front, one back), through four pockets (an additional watch pocket), to the now classic five pockets (an additional back pocket). The small pocket was originally used for a pocket watch, then later for coins or tickets. We re-developed this staple to fit and protect that 21st centur y essential, the smar tphone. On our selvedge options we decided to r un the selvedge down the outside edge, rather than along the top of the pocket. Another Sweeney twist on a classic. Side Bar Tack Triangle A bar tack stitch is a tight zigzag stitch repeated over and over itself to reinforce an area of fabric and reduce the risk of tear s. You typically see bar tacks on jeans around the pockets, belt loops, the fly and the hips. They are a sign of quality and longevity. For our jean, we decided to modernise the shape. On the side of the jeans, just below the pocket, you’ll find a triangle made up of three bar tacks - a reference to the gentleman’s corner on our shoes. Small Triangles on Back Pocket Stitch One of the things we love about vintage jeans is the stitch detail on the back pockets, which creates small triangles at each corner. Typically, brands have been creative with their back pocket stitching, using it as an identifying detail. Aiming for a more refined look, we simply wor ked our triangles into the continuous stitchline, adding a great vintage point of difference to our jean.
THE DENIM COLLECTION
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FINISHING TOUCHES Waistband Stitch The diagonal stitchline at the front of the jean that cuts across the button is an original jean feature, made to finish off the continuous waistband stitchline. A nice touch that we decided was too good to ignore. Belt Loops First added in 1922, belt loops eventually replaced the original brace buttons and cinches on jeans. Typically, they’re turned under and stitched to the front of the jeans, but we decided to go one better. Rather than leaving the raw edge of the belt loop on show, our belt loops are tucked under the waistband for added strength and a more refined finish. Back Yoke/’Riser’ The yoke, or riser, determines the shape and fit of denim jeans. We’ve gone with the classic ‘V’ shape yoke that is lower in the middle compared to the outer seams. This traditional variation gives the most practical and flattering fit to our jeans. We’ve also followed the traditional constr uction of the yoke, inser ting it underneath the back panels, rather than sat on top. Chain-Stitch A vintage jean detail, a chain stitch is one continuously looping thread that forms a chain-like pattern. Used at the hem and waistband, this finishing touch illustrates our keen eye for detail and quality.
THE DENIM COLLECTION
O L I V E R S W E E N E Y. C O M