A WINE EXPERT’S JOURNEY OF COLLECTING

from Texan Magazine - Winter 2022

by Texanmag

LEXUS

A JOURNEY

THROUGH WINE

by JIM PETERSON, WINE ENTHUSIAST & INSTAGRAM WINE INFLUENCER

There is a simple truth about me. I have not had a normal wine life.

Over the years I have tasted some of the best wines in the world, and many of them in multiple vintages. One of my first enduring wine memories occurred on Valentine’s Day 1999. A friend unexpectedly sent over a glass of the 1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, a top tier Bordeaux. As I smelled the wine, I was captivated. I could not even bring myself to taste the wine for several minutes because I did not want to give up those aromatics. The palate was equally amazing, and the memory of that small glass of heaven on earth has never faded. This was the first of many such experiences. Over the years there have been key moments, unexpected delights, friendships made, and memorable experiences that have shaped and formed my interest in, and great love for, wine.

Not long after that I accidentally stumbled into tasting a 1966 Château Haut Brion. Here is a legendary Château, documented to be producing wine as far back as 1423. The famous diarist Samuel Pepys wrote a note in 1663 that he “drank a sort of French wine called Ho Bryen that hath a good and most particular taste I never met with.” Thomas Jefferson was so enamored with Haut Brion he sent six cases back to Virginia in 1787. And then there is me. Over 200 years later I boldly crashed an acquaintance’s “man cave” while I was randomly driving by and saw he was there. When I walked in, he just happened to be sharing a 1981 Haut Brion with two guests. He was incredibly gracious and poured me a glass. That first bottle disappeared rather quickly, and he said, “Shall we open another?” Who could say no? He went back towards his cellar, with a sly look towards me as he walked out and came back with the legendary 1966 vintage of Haut Brion. I had to contain my glee. Here was another wine that astounded me to such a degree that I cannot shake the memory of that experience.

Thomas Jefferson was so enamored with Haut Brion he sent six cases back to Virginia in 1787

SHARING IS CARING

Despite the thousands of wines I have tasted since then, I have never had the opportunity to try either of those wines again. I still think about them. I constantly wonder if the next Bordeaux I taste will meet that standard. One thing I have learned over the years of my personal wine journey is that trying to force a wine moment like this simply does not work. Often, it is that random bottle a friend opens unexpectedly.

The aspect of sharing wine has been part of my desire to collect and age wine. There is always the chance I will provide that similar memory, that same spark that unwittingly inspires someone else to fall in love with wine in a way they had not believed possible. And it works! A few years ago I opened a 1989 Château Pichon Lalande to celebrate my birthday (what a coincidence), and my friend, who had not really tasted properly aged wine before, was completely blown away by it. From that point forward his approach to wine collecting was altered.

Having a wine collection certainly helps with sharing. Choosing wine from the collection, no matter how many bottles you own, can often be frustrating. A few months ago I made a comment on my Instagram that I was staring at over 600 bottles of wine in my collection and I had nothing to open. I know it seems ridiculous but opening a bottle for just myself is not the same as pulling a bottle to go out to dinner with friends. There are certain wines I only want to taste with friends. I mean, is a bottle really that great if you’re the only one tasting it? Plus, many wines in my cellar simply require more age. So therein lies the dilemma that most serious wine collectors face. In my poll on this topic, 79% of respondents said it happened to them too. It may seem crazy, but it happens a lot.

PRO TIP:

The easiest way to avoid having to agonize over which “good wine” to choose is to simply keep a small collection of quaffable “daily drinkers” on hand. These are wines you should never feel bad about opening. If you ever have trouble deciding, just go to one of the default wines and call it a night.

STARTING A COLLECTION

What do you do if you want to start a collection? I was lucky. I moved to Germany right about the time I had decided to start collecting. The great vintage of 2000 Bordeaux was available for pre-order (or futures), and I took advantage of the cheaper prices in Europe, ordering several cases. Then I just kept shopping the whole time I lived there. A trip to Tuscany, loading up the station wagon, made it easy to kickstart my Italian selections. All in all, I brought back over 400 bottles to begin my collection. It is also possible to slowly build up a collection over time with patience, selective purchases, and discipline (like utilizing the daily drinker strategy). I do believe it is important to understand which wines will be cellar worthy to avoid future disappointments. This just came up in a conversation with another long-time collector, and he commented it was best to try and start out collecting some of the higher end age-worthy wines. As your taste changes, and particularly if you “get the bug” and start preferring higher end wines, you can end up stuck with wines that simply no longer interest you. There are many collectors who have experienced this. A great aspect of wine is there are so many possibilities in the collectible category that finding wines you know you will enjoy later should not be a problem.

I have said this before, but temperaturecontrolled wine storage is an absolute necessity if you plan to cellar wine for the long-term. I purchased a large wine cabinet right after I returned from my first assignment in Germany. My wine has been stored at 55° ever since. If you lack the space for in-home wine storage, there are usually specialty storage rentals for wine in most large cities. One advantage of offsite storage is the lack of easy access can also help with cellar discipline.

Lastly, it is also a good idea to have a target “do not open before” date in mind. That can also help with cellar discipline. In whatever way you decide to enjoy your wine, I hope you will always approach your wine journey with an enthusiasm for both learning and sharing. There is great satisfaction in helping others experience the nuance, the pleasure, and the mystery of great wine. And you might be surprised at how much you can learn in hearing about how they perceive the wine differently from you. How do you approach your wine life?

CELLAR RECOMMENDATIONS

It is no surprise my wine cellar is heavily skewed toward European (or Old World) wines. These are the easily recognizable regions that have stood the test of time – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Brunello, Barolo, some Super Tuscans, fine German Riesling, and vintage Champagne. For American wines, the most likely candidates are the multitude of finer Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, but there are certainly Washington State and Oregon wines that have proven they can age well. Professional scores can guide you, but it is best to consider the range of scores rather than rely on just one source.

Bordeaux – Look for classified growths from the main appellations of Pauillac, Saint Julien, Saint Éstephe, Margaux, and Saint Émilion. Pomerol does not classify their wines, but include them too. Many Bordeaux are exorbitantly priced, but there are good values to be found. You can find quality wines in recent vintages of 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018.

Burgundy – The best collectibles are ridiculously priced, and I have always believed you must have a suitable knowledge of the producers when collecting Burgundy. I urge caution.

Brunello – The recently released vintages of 2015 and 2016 are simply outstanding. The nice thing about Brunello is it can be opened a bit early with a good decant. See my first article on Tuscan wines for recommendations.

Barolo – The recently released vintages of 2015, 2016, and 2017 are solid. Keep in mind that most Barolo really take 15-20 years before they truly show well. My favorite producer is Paolo Scavino, but there are many worth seeking out.

Super Tuscans, German Riesling, and Champagne – There are recommendations in my prior articles on these topics.

Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_ pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.

Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 20 years and is an avid wine collector. His extensive wine knowledge includes travel to many wine regions while living in Europe, many tastings led by Master Sommeliers, and ongoing personal wine exploration and selfstudy. He has cultivated a large following on his Instagram account, @tx_wine_pilot, tasting and reporting on wines from vintage to value. He now works in marketing and resides in San Antonio, Texas.