DOGGETT at Large by JOE DOGGETT :: TF&G Senior Contributing Editor
Wade with Caution
standard measure. Chest waders are necessary for cold-water destinations. Even in July or August, a river in Alaska can be a poor place for wet wading. For that matter, so is the tailwater below a big dam in the Lower 48. The release from the bottom depths can be shockingly cold. Again, buy the best within your budget. The top-end breathable materials are durable, flexible, and easy to patch. A cheaper option is old-school neoprene, but this spongy material is heavy and hot on a mild day—or during a long hike. A wide belt cinched tight should be mandatory. The belt won’t keep you dry following a dunking, but the watertight integrity is much improved. Another smart accessory is a wading staff— especially for older anglers burdened with oxenlike reflexes. In heavy water, that third anchor can spare you a bad fall. It also serves as a walking stick when an arduous hike is necessary. A collapsible aluminum staff that folds into a trim belt sheath is a great choice. You can shake the four hollow sections loose and secure a tight fit by pulling and locking the connecting elastic cord. The assembled shaft is about five feet in length and fitted with a comfortable handle. This compact rig sounds complicated, but the drill is fast, easy and, in my experience, reliable. Dragging a wooden stick around all day gets old. The idea in treacherous water is to jab the staff at a slight up-current angle. Make certain it has a solid bite before advancing. Be wary of moving hastily through shallow shoreline water. The lack of depth breeds false security. In a freestone river of jumbled rocks, stones and boulders, any number of slick traps can await a careless step. The upside of a shallow tumble is that you won’t drown. The downside is that the lack of cushioning increases the chances of a hazardous injury. Be especially cautious in strong knee-deep current. The powerful energy is piling right into the break of your legs, easy to trigger a careless tumble. Thigh deep is safer. Waist deep is doable, but over an uncertain bottom, it demands upgraded caution. Anything over waist deep gets sketchy— no way in heavy water.
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NLESS ANCESTRY.COM can trace your lineage directly to Tarzan or Wonder Woman, my advice is to be very cautious when you attempt to wade any unfamiliar river. The combination of variable depth, jumbled bottom, and powerful current can be a bad mix for even a veteran angler—not to mention a rookie. A single misstep in moving water can trigger a seriously soggy and potentially dangerous situation. I stress this because the summer season is approaching, and some TF&G readers will be aiming for high-country angling destinations. Most will be fly fishing. I have waded rivers around the world—as close as Houston’s Buffalo Bayou, as distant as Alaska, Argentina and Iceland. So, I feel qualified to offer a few tips. Most important is a pair of no-nonsense wading boots. Most boots intended for freshwater are lace-ups, constructed of nylon, opposed to neoprene booties, often used in saltwater. Quality products might cost several hundred dollars, but with reasonable care, they last for years. Less-expensive options are available, but the point is to obtain the best that fits your budget as well as your feet. Boots are no place to skimp. The new gear provides superior ankle support and foot traction. Soles of felt or hard rubber are available. Felt soles are excellent over slippery stones, but might not be permitted, depending on the state or country where you plan to fish. This absorbent material can retain noxious aquatic vegetation. Screw-in metal cleats or studs on rubber soles offer improved grip, but cleats might damage a float plane pontoon or an aluminum skiff—not mention a rubber raft. Know before you go. When you select boots, make certain they are large enough to accommodate a liner sock and a heavy wool sock. Going up one shoe size is the 8
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To cast a dry fly or an indicator/nymph setup, you wade upstream to achieve a drag-free drift. On the other hand, you swing a streamer by shuffling downstream. Either way, the savvy wader easing from the bank into position, should angle into the current. Pushing straight into the flow invites a you-against-the-river fiasco. When quitting a deeper wade, the experienced angler aims slightly downstream. Let the momentum of the flow work in concert with your steps. Pay attention to the river level. If it abruptly starts rising—such as after a heavy overnight rain or an upriver dam release in a tailwater stream— aim for the rescue bank. A sure tip that a major flush of H2O is about to happen is that water clarity starts to deteriorate, or numerous twigs and leaves go bobbling past. If the bottom starts inching deeper, say from waist-deep to chest-deep, maintain the downstream angle as you aim for the bank—but avoid skittish, tentative steps. Rather, charge with aggressive, bounding strides. Contact with the treacherous bottom is minimal, and the river is with you. It acts as a booster—assuming a giant boulder isn’t lurking ahead. Extending a fly rod horizontally into the downstream current allows it to bend and flex in resistance to the flow. This can be a great stabilizer like the outrigger on a Waikiki canoe. This works! I’m amazed at how many veteran river waders never use this simple tactic. The rod won’t snap. Regardless, stalling and trying to turn back can court a panicky tumble. Now you are bucking an overwhelming force. If you lose your footing, and a dunking is certain, strive to stay calm. If necessary, float feet first to block any contact with a boulder or log. Salvation is close. At least you have no stingrays or sharks to worry about. For those this side of Tarzan, a bear on the bank might be a different issue.
Email Joe Doggett at ContactUs@fishgame.com
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4/8/22 6:17 PM
