4 minute read
A Great Trip to Great Britain
A Great Trip to Great Britain
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THE COTSWOLDS AND LONDON PROVIDE BEAUTIFUL BACKDROP
A few years ago, I promised my daughter we’d take a big trip to celebrate her high school graduation. We discussed a few locations, like Australia and New Zealand, but she’s fascinated by London. I crowdsourced ideas on Facebook and the overwhelming majority said we must visit the Cotswolds, too. Hence, the trip of a lifetime ensued.
The Cotswolds is made up of 800 square miles of adorable English villages and towns, each with their own distinct
personality. Back in mediaeval times, the Cotswolds (which means sheep pen), had a thriving woolen industry; wool from Cotswold sheep is still known for its high quality. The unspoilt cottages, bubbling brooks and specialist shops make the Cotswolds a fun destination to explore. However, there’s limited train service so you need to either rent a car from London or hire a driver from the likes of Chirton Grange. (Well worth the investment for ease, comfort and local knowledge.)
BATH -- a 1 hour 20 minute train ride from London -- with its rich history and beautiful architecture is a fabulous jumping-off place to begin your Cotswold journey. When the Romans settled this ancient city they created the now-famous eponymous baths as public spaces around the abundant thermal hot springs of the area.
The Gainsborough Bath Spa is comfortable luxury at its best. The hotel, which features 99 rooms and, in former times, was both a hospital and art college, opened in 2015. Their NYC-based designer worked wonders, with deep gold and black furnishings in the rooms, full-size high-end chocolate bars as pillow treats and heated bathroom floors. (Our bathroom had two separate showers.)
Having kept the original Georgian design of the old buildings, the “hero of the house” is the Village Spa underneath, where guests can “take the waters.” The bath house circuit starts with a warm balneo pool soak, followed by the cool lymphatic hose, time in the infrared dry sauna (known to kill fat cells), the lavender ice alcove, and finally, floating in the main atrium pool as long as you like.
The hotel’s vintage bar will transport you back to the days of swing dancing and martinis, the perfect cocktail lounge before heading across the hall to a five-star dinner at Dan Moon restaurant, named for the executive chef. The dinner begins with a bread basket, offering the most delicious bread in our three weeks in Europe. A three to seven course dinner follows, highlighting the best locally-sourced produce, meat and fish. Start with sauteed scallops with shellfish risotto, king prawn and seaweed; move on to a roasted lamb with black pudding croquette, and end with a salted caramel tart.
Make time on your visit for the Savouring Bath walking food tour through town. The tour makes up to a dozen stops at independently owned foodie businesses around Bath. From the eco-baker at Thoughtful Bakery to Swoon gelato, stops might also include a tea shop, Asian cuisine, a chocolatier and more.
Head on down the road to Cheltenham and stay at one of the most beautifully manicured properties I’ve ever seen, Cowley Manor (owned by Curious Hotels). Many of the historic Cotswold manor houses, built by the rich merchants and landed gentry of the area, have been turned into hotels, such as this one, which sits on a gorgeous 55 acres. Lewis Carroll visited Cowley Manor many times and is said to have penned his famous “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” on the property, inspired by the setting.
The rooms in the main manor building are spacious with oversized bathrooms (ours had one of the most unique showers I’ve seen) but there’s no air conditioning. However, with a fan and windows open, we slept comfortably. The grounds are a sight to be seen, with colorful hammocks, a lake that cascades down a stone waterway, and various odes adding to the “Alice” feel.
C-Side Spa at the manor is a treat unto itself. Book a massage, which is followed by hot tea in the relaxation area, and leave plenty of time to enjoy the luxurious indoor and outdoor pools. The steam room, sauna and drench showers are also a must, and perfect after a day in the car or walking around the Cotswolds.
The restaurant at Cowley Manor really impresses, with a blend of gourmet and comfort food. Dinner begins with grain bread, served with asparagus mousse butter. Move on to enjoy a goat cheese salad, artichoke ravioli and steamed broccoli with honey soy and pine nuts. For breakfast, I recommend avocado toast on the terrace, with an unforgettable view.
Another manor turned into a hotel is Lords of the Manor Hotel in Upper Slaughter. (Lower Slaughter is a mere mile away; the Slaughters are one of several pairs of intriguingly named hamlets in the area, including Lower and Upper Swell, and Great and Little Tew.) Built in 1649 and formerly a rectory, the hotel began in 1972 with 28 rooms, which were recently refurbished. The hotel sits on eight acres and the village is a picturesque walkabout. Dining at the hotel restaurant will span several courses, much like the lords and ladies of the manors would have.
For an absorbing day out, head to Blenheim Palace and tour the overwhelming property that is home to the 12th Duke and Duchess of Marlborough and the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. Take a self-guided audio tour through the many rooms featuring furnishings from centuries ago. My personal favorite was the long library, housing over 10,000 books, said to be the second largest room in England.