Textile World September/October 2021 by TextileIndustriesMediaGroup

QFOM: Asahi Kasei’s Bemliese™ DORNIER’s Composite® Systems E-Textiles: RF Power ■

■

September/October 2021 Founded 1868

IFAI Expo 2021 “Reconnect With Your Industry”

Weaving Technology • • •

Weaving Machine Innovations Auxiliary Equipment Matters Company Profile: Schneider Mills

September/October 2021 TextileWorld.com

Founded 1868

Publication

Features 10

IFAI Expo 2021 Takes On Nashville Under the theme “Reconnect With Your Industry,” IFAI Expo returns to an in-person show for its 100th anniversary.

Techtextil North America 2021 Trade show offers postive flow and marks the industry’s reemergence.

30 Reintroducing DORNIER’s Composite Systems® Suite DORNIER is in the midst of re-introducing its Composite Systems® family of technologies focused on the ever-advancing needs of a dynamic composites industry.

34 Sustainable And Intelligent Carding

ON THE COVER: Italy-based Itema S.p.A. manufactures weaving machines including the R9500-2denim, which features the iSAVER™, a left-hand-weft waste saving device by Itemalab™.

Departments 4

From The Editor

News

Business & Financial

8 Yarn Market 36

People

Calendar

Quality Fabric Of The Month

Trützschler’s was TC 19i engineered for energy-efficient carding

Weaving Focus 14

Company Profile: Schneider Mills Inc. Deep rooted family values and a growth mindset keep technical weaving company Schneider Mills well-positioned for the future.

Weaving Machine Developments The star of the weaving room continues to advance, offering added value and higher quality to finished products.

22 Weaving: Auxiliary Equipment Matters Weaving is a complex process requiring technology beyond the weaving machine for the highest-quality fabrics.

Nonwovens/Technical Textiles 26 The Wireless Charging Closet Printed electronics enable e-textiles and wearables powered by radio frequency wireless power.

VOL. 171, No. 5 / TEXTILE WORLD (ISSN 0040-5213) is published bimonthly by Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA 30068, and incorporates Modern Textiles, Textile Industries, Fiber World and Knitting/Apparel magazines, which remain the property of Textile Industries Media Group, LLC. Copyright 2021, Textile Industries Media Group, LLC Title registered with the U.S. Patent Office. All rights, including translation into other languages, reserved. Subscription rates for one year are: $65 (US); $85 (Canada and Mexico); $130 (Other International). Single copy rates are: $15 per copy. All prices are in U.S. dollars and all orders must be prepaid. Questions may be submitted to jdavis@textileworld.com. To obtain electronic copies of print articles, please contact ProQuest at www.proquest.com. To obtain microform copies, please contact NA Publishing at www.napubco.com.

POSTMASTER send address changes to: Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA 30068. Send Canadian address changes to: Textile World, c/o The Mail Group, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2, Canada. Customer #7007632 Publications Agreement #40612608.

From The

Editor

Supply Chains Crush,

Labor Shortages

arkets in general are about people — and more importantly the emotions and fear they choose to act on. Whether it is stocks, gasoline, the latest Xbox or toilet paper, consumers currently are moving markets by sharply increasing demand and, in some cases, well beyond the capacity of supply chains to replenish the surge. The supply chain for textiles has suffered as well, not just imports of apparel but also goods and inputs throughout the supply chain. A new surge appears to be happening today regarding Christmas shopping. More and more people — consumers and press — seem to be chatting-up fears of shortages in a range of goods from appliances to apparel. According to the monthly Global Port Tracker report recently released by the National Retail Federation and Hackett Associates,“Imports at the nation’s largest retail container ports should remain at near-record levels this month but could see a slight dip from last year’s unusually high numbers as congestion slows the movement of backed-up cargo.” There may be shortages, but retailers want to maximize sales and have taken steps to do so in this challenging market. In a recent Barron’s article by Jack Hough titled,“Why Global Shortages Won’t Ruin the Holidays,”he reports: “’Many of our savvy retailers and importers advanced their orders,’says Gene Seroka, executive director of the Port of Los Angeles.‘We started seeing Christmas goods arrive on our shores back in June of this year. Normally, that arrival would take place at the end of August, beginning of September.’” Hough goes on to explain: “Trans-Pacific shipments are up some 30% this year, which has worsened a shortage of 40-foot shipping containers. The cost to send one of them from Shanghai to Los Angeles has jumped to nearly $20,000 from $2,000 in a year and a half.”

Regarding port bottlenecks, Hough noted: “Under normal circumstances, the ideal number of ships to drop anchor outside of California’s San Pedro Bay Ports Complex, which consists of the busy ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach, is zero. Among the 88 vessels recently waiting to dock, 64 are carrying containers, with about half of these headed for each port. Port productivity is up, Seroka says, but truckers and warehouses haven’t added as much capacity as shippers, so unloaded containers are sitting at the port for six days rather than two, and at warehouse doors for seven or eight days versus three or four. “The ship jam will not be cleared by Christmas, Seroka says. “’There will be goods on the store shelves, in the fulfillment centers, for us to order,’ [Seroka] says.‘My only advice is maybe for the American consumer, like I’m doing, to shop a little early.’” And in textiles, unfortunately shipping is not the only bottleneck. COVID-19 has taken supply and manufacturing off-line. COVID19 has also shifted consumer demand from services to manufactured goods — again pressuring the supply chain. But in textiles, as in most industries, labor is on everyone’s mind. As generous unemployment benefits expire, many wonder if the incentive to participate in the labor force will rise. The participation rate has been steady at 61.7 percent versus the pre-pandemic rate of 63.3 percent. Jobless claims are down after rising in September. According to Robert Reichard’s “Textile Activity At A Glance,”in this issue, textile mill, textile product mill and apparel employment has improved year-over-year, but will U.S. textiles see labor improvements? Only time will tell.

James M. Borneman jborneman@TextileWorld.com

Publication

EDITOR IN CHIEF EXECUTIVE EDITOR TECHNICAL EDITORS

James M. Borneman Rachael S. Davis Dr. Lisa Parillo Chapman Dr. Peter J. Hauser Dr. Trevor J. Little Dr. William Oxenham Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi Dr. Abdel-Fattah Seyam Dr. Andre West

ECONOMICS EDITOR YARN MARKET EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Robert S. Reichard Jim Phillips Jim Kaufmann Stephen M. Warner

INTERNET CONTENT EDITOR CIRCULATION MANAGER ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER

Rachael S. Davis Julie K. Brown-Davis Denise Buchalter

ART & PRODUCTION MANAGER

Julie K. Brown-Davis

OWNER/PUBLISHER

James M. Borneman

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES UNITED STATES/CANADA

Turner Marketing & Media, LLC

+864-594-0921 • sturner@textileworld.com MEXICO, CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA Virgilio L. González +58-412-622-2648 • Fax +58-212-985-7921 • vlgonzalezp@gmail.com EUROPE (except ITALY)

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News Auria Announces $12.4 Million Expansion Automotive flooring, acoustical and fiber-based solutions company Auria, Columbia, S.C., announced it will invest more than $12.4 million to grow its operation. The expansion, which will take place incrementally over the next two years, will create 103 jobs. “We are proud to be able to grow our business and build on our future at the Spartanburg plant,” said Auria Vice President of Operations Mike Van Booven.“We know we can continue to count on Spartanburg’s talented, dedicated workforce to help us deliver best-inclass automotive products to our customers.” “This announcement is a terrific win for the Upstate … we congratulate Auria on their expansion in Spartanburg County,” said South Carolina Secretary of Commerce Harry M. Lightsey III. “This announcement is further proof that South Carolina is an ideal location for businesses to grow and thrive.”

Glen Raven Invests $70 Million In Custom Fabrics Division Glen Raven Inc., Glen Raven, N.C., has announced plans to expand its custom fabrics division in Anderson County, S.C. The $70 million investment will add a distribution facility to the

company’s existing operation along with new equipment and processes to improve overall efficiency and capacity. In addition, the expansion includes enhancements to the location’s Sunbrella manufacturing assets with new finishing capacity, material flow technology, and inspection and sampling upgrades. All upgrades are expected to be operational by early 2023. All told, the investment will create 135 new jobs. The cost of site preparation and building construction will be defrayed by a $400,000 Set-Aside grant to Anderson County from the Coordinating Council for Economic Development. “We’ve been a proud part of the Anderson County community since 1986, and over the decades, dedicated and skilled South Carolinians have been critical to our growth,”said Leib Oehmig, Glen Raven CEO.“We are thrilled to expand on our great partnership and look forward to creating more growth for our company and the community, together.” “New jobs and investments are important to a strong and healthy economy,”said South Carolina Governor Henry McMaster. “We appreciate Glen Raven Inc.’s commitment to Anderson County and the state of South Carolina, and we look forward to their continued growth.”

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

Milliken & Company, A&E Honored With Visit From USTR Katherine Tai United States Trade Representative (USTR) Ambassador Katherine Tai recently visited Milliken & Company and American & Efird (A&E) on a tour organized by the Washington-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO). Ambassador Tai first toured Milliken’s Magnolia plant in Blacksburg, S.C., then participated in a round table discussing the role women play in the textile industry, the critical need for domestic supply chain policies in Washington, and the contributions of the textile industry to the overall U.S. economy. At A&E’s plant in Mount Holly, N.C., Ambassador Tai followed up a tour by participating in a round table with textile executives from the fiber, yarn, fabric and finished products sectors of the industry. Discussion topics included the competitiveness of the U.S. industry, priority issues in Washington, and ways to support the domestic industry with Berry Amendment and Buy American policies. “Milliken is honored to host Ambassador Tai at our Magnolia plant to discuss not only the invaluable contributions we make every day to our community and our nation, but also the importance of sound trade policies that bolster domestic production and the co-production chains

we have built, in particular with our Western Hemisphere trading partners,” said Chad McAllister, executive vice president of Milliken & Company and president,Textile Business. “It was an honor hosting Ambassador Tai at our manufacturing facility in Mount Holly, employing 380 valued associates and just 2 miles from where the company started 130 years ago,” said Sim Skinner, CEO of Elevate Textiles, A&E’s parent company. “We had an engaging discussion with the Ambassador on our company’s and industry’s innovation and competitiveness, and on the policy priorities that we believe will help ensure our competitiveness and long-term investment in the domestic textile industry.” “As United States Trade Representative, I am committed to helping all of your companies build on the success by finding market opportunities and helping reach new customers,” said Ambassador Tai. “I want to ensure that our trade policy matches the innovation and changes happening in the textiles industry. With your help, we can continue addressing critical issues. In doing so, we will help the textiles industry maintain its competitive edge and ensure it remains a global standard-bearer in the years to come.” TW

Business & Financial Textile Activity At A Glance DEMAND

*Latest

Year Ago

(Federal Reser ve Board [FRB], 2017=100)

PRODUCTION

Textile mill Textile product mill Apparel

88.9 95.7 97.2

87.9 86.3 88.2

(Dept. of Commerce [DOC], millions)

MANUFACTURING SALES

Textile mill Textile product mill Apparel Apparel retail

90.3 95.7 97.7

$2,327 $1,863 $855 $25,795

$2,255 $1,874 $861 $25,761

$2,262 $1,877 $889 $18,578

*Latest

Year Ago

147.1 160.5 150.1 179.9 168.7 182.8 146.8

148.0 158.3 144.5 178.7 169.1 180.8 146.6

126.8 136.3 137.5 162.9 168.7 176.1 146.0

$9,766 $1,877 $7,889

$8,938 $1,899 $7,039

$8,179 $1,527 $6,652

(BLS, 2011=100)

106.6

106.8

101.8

(BLS, 2005=100)

110.9

110.4

106.2

97.3 106.7 92.3

97.6 106.4 92.8

(BLS,1982=100)

Man-made fibers Processed yarn & threads Greige goods Finished fabrics Home furnishings Carpet Apparel

INTERNATIONAL TRADE (DOC, millions)

TEXTILE & APPAREL

SUPPLY (FRB, 2017=100)

CAPACITY

Textile mill Apparel

95.0 85.8

95.0 86.0

95.6 88.0 (FRB)

OPERATING RATE

Textile mill Apparel

67.5 77.6

67.9 77.9

STOCK/SALES RATIO Textile mill Textile product mill

1.34 2.11

1.37 2.09

1.48 2.13

63.3 68.7

87.8

93.8

61.7

(DOC)

COSTS Cotton

PRICES

(cents/lb)

(Bureau of Labor Statistics [BLS], $/h)

HOURLY EARNINGS

Textile mill Textile product mill Apparel

PRICE INDEXES 150 149 148 147 146 145 144 143 142 141 140 139 138 137 136 135 134

$22.41 $22.40 $22.35

$22.65 $22.07 $22.15

$22.06 $21.86 $20.57

(December 2003=100)

Imports Exports Trade Deficit IMPORT PRICE

Textile mill Textile product mill

EMPLOYMENT

(BLS, thousands)

Textile mill Textile product mill Apparel

PROFITS

(census, millions per quarter)

Textile Apparel

$1,195 $3,521

$782 $2,451

Textile Apparel

10.8 16.0

8.6 13.0

2.4 -17.7

*Latest

Year Ago

5.2

5.4

8.4

$18,015

$19,455

$18,250

1,615

1,554

1,416

(BLS, 1982-84=100)

273.6

273.0

259.8

(BLS, 1982=100)

231.9

231.2

194.3

Factory utilization rate 76.7 Industrial production (2017=100) 101.6 Production capacity (2017=100) 99.7

76.6 101.2 99.6

72.3 98.7 99.6

MACROECONOMIC FACTORS Unemployment Rate

Textile Mills Price Index

(DOC, billions)

(BLS)

Disposable income Housing starts

(DOC, thousands)

Consumer Price Index Producer Price Index, all AGGREGATE

2020 May – August = preliminary

2021 September = estimated

$180 $-2,291

(census, quarterly per $ of sales)

MARGINS

Textile Product Mills Price Index

93.0 102.4 88.1

(FRB)

* all figures are for the latest available month as of TW’s press time, except for profits where only quarterly data are available.

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

YarnMarket Product Traceability Gains Momentum

By Jim Phillips, Yarn Market Editor

he need for sourceto-consumer product traceability has been featured multiple times in these pages, dating back more than a decade. Public focus on traceability began as a result of contaminated food. As the frequency and variety of contaminated or faulty products increased over time –— ranging from toys laden with lead paint to cell phones that spontaneously burst into flames — consumers began to demand a more rigorous accounting of what their products were made of and from where each component originated. Further, consumers wanted to ensure product claims and labeling were correct. In textile products, for example, class action lawsuits have been filed over the past few years against major retailers for misrepresenting the sheets and bedroom accessories items they were selling. One lawsuit alleged the thread count of sheets was substantially below what was stated on the packaging. Another claimed that sheets sold as 100-percent Egyptian cotton contained only 16 percent of the fiber. One company, Applied DNA Sciences, has developed a platform —

CertainT® — that helps companies assure their customers of the veracity of all product claims. CertainT uses molecular taggant technology to create fully traceable textile supply chains. It was reported earlier this year, for example, that CertainT was the choice for American & Efird when it wanted to introduce a new recycled sewing thread and guarantee its authenticity to customers. In late September, Applied DNA Sciences reported it received purchase orders from an unnamed textile customer totaling $1.6 million to supply molecular taggant to tag textile fibers. CertainT’s molecular taggant serves as a unique identifier that can be tested for its presence as the tagged material travels throughout virtually any global supply chain.

Spun Yarn And Global Fibers Market Projected To Grow The global market for spun yarn, which was estimated at 52 million tons in 2020, is expected to grow to 59.3 million tons by 2026, according to a new report by research firm Global Industry Analysts, Inc. The overall CAGR is

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

projected at 2 percent over the analysis period. CAGR for cotton is projected to be 1.9 percent and reach a total 34.8 million tons. The polyester segment is estimated to have a 2.5 percent CAGR for the period. The research firm also projects the global market for all textile fibers, estimated at 109.5 million tons in the year 2020, is projected to reach 125.1 million tons by 2026, growing at a CAGR of 2.2 percent over the analysis period. The company also projects the textile fibers market in the United States to be 30.2 million tons for 2021.

New Microfiber Eliminates Recontamination Risk Skokie,. Ill.-based UMF Corp. has developed a new hospital-grade microfiber that can be converted into a wide range of long-lasting, reusable products, including towels, cubicle curtains, socks, gloves, walk-off mats, reusable N95-rated face masks and color-coded microfiber cleaning products. Manufacturers are using these high-performance Micrillon® microfiber yarns to develop a new standard for materials targeting infection prevention in hospitals,

hotels, cruise lines, long term care and many other industries. “The introduction of Micrillon microfiber puts an end, once and for all, to any question about recontamination related to reusable products,” said UMF Corp. CEO George Clarke. “Some manufacturers and distributors of disposable products — including cubicle curtains, microfiber mops, and wipers — have generated controversy around the risk of reusable products, such as microfiber wipers, recontaminating a patient room, even after being laundered.” This ignores “the fact that after laundering, wipers used in hospitals are immersed in an EPA-registered disinfectant before use — effectively killing bacteria and inactivating viruses.” Micrillon is a rechargeable polymer additive that can be incorporated into man-made fibers, films, and plastics and then charged with chlorine molecules. The Micrillon chemistry recharges for the life of the product and will not leach into the environment. When microbes come into contact with a Micrillon surface, they are eliminated, and viruses are inactivated. TW

Color 41, Leaf 4, Staple 34, Mike 35-36 and 43-49, Strength 27.0-28.9, Uniformity 81.0-81.9 COTTON FIBER (BASE GRADE)

Spot Market, ¢/lb.

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

87.71

84.03

68.19

Ring-Spun 100% Carded Cotton

CARDED COTTON

Open-End Spun 100% Carded Cotton

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

10/1 18/1 24/1 30/1 12/2 20/2

2.08 2.11 2.28 2.29 2.65 2.74

2.01 2.04 2.21 2.22 2.58 2.66

1.83 1.95 2.00 2.10 2.42 2.61

4/1 10/1 16/1 18/1 20/1

1.34 1.40 1.45 1.51 1.60

1.18 1.23 1.28 1.34 1.43

1.10 1.13 1.29 1.35 1.37

Ring-Spun 100% Combed Cotton COMBED COTTON

POLYESTER/ CARDED COTTON

ACRYLIC & RAYON

Ring-Spun 50/50% Polyester/Combed Cotton

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

18/1 26/1 30/1 38/1

2.86 2.94 3.23 3.30

2.74 2.82 3.11 3.18

2.78 2.86 3.11 3.19

20/1 30/1

2.38 2.44

2.25 2.31

2.09 2.20

Ring-Spun 50/50% Polyester/Carded Cotton

Open-End Spun 50/50% Polyester/Carded Cotton

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

20/1 30/1

2.24 2.31

2.10 2.17

1.97 2.04

12/1 14/1 18/1 24/1 28/1

1.19 1.32 1.53 1.57 1.62

1.04 1.17 1.37 1.41 1.50

1.04 1.16 1.26 1.30 1.40

Open-End Spun 100% Acrylic (worsted count)

Open-End Spun 100% 1.2 Denier Rayon

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

1/12 1/18 1/24 1/28 1/32

3.10 3.15 3.22 3.27 3.48

20/1 30/1

4.56 4.79

Ring-Spun 100% Polyester (whites only) SPUN POLYESTER

Ring-Spun 100% Polyester (dyed)

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

8/1 16/1 20/1 22/1 30/1

2.24 2.36 2.49 2.59 2.97

2.19 2.31 2.44 2.54 2.92

2.16 2.28 2.41 2.51 2.89

8/1 16/1 20/1 22/1 30/1

3.42 3.63 3.69 3.77 4.14

3.30 3.51 3.56 3.64 4.01

3.25 3.46 3.51 3.59 3.95

Filament Polyester Partially Oriented Yarn (POY)

Textured Nylon

MAN-MADE FIBERS/ FILAMENTS

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

70/2 100/2

3.45 3.58

70 denier 100 denier 150 denier

2.20 2.14 2.08

Textured Polyester (knits)

Man-Made Staple Fiber

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

YARN TYPE

CURRENT

6 MO. AGO

1 YR. AGO

70 denier (dyeable) 70 denier (whites) 100 denier (dyeable or whites) 150 den. (dyeable) 150 den. (whites)

2.09 2.01 1.80

1.96 1.88 1.67

Polyester (1.5 denier) Acrylic (3.0 denier)

2.22-2.36 2.08-2.24

1.75 1.73

1.62 1.58

All yarn prices in U.S. dollars per pound & asking prices only. Prices compiled from 9/28/21 See TextileWorld.com for archived Yarn Market data.

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

IFAI EXPO 2021 PREVIEW

Music City Center will host the 100th IFAI Expo this November.

IFAI Expo Takes On Nashville

he Roseville, Minn.-based Industrial Fabrics Association International’s (IFAI’s) IFAI Expo and Advanced Textiles Conference return to Nashville, Tenn., November 1-4, 2021, at the Music City Center convention center. The year 2021 marks the 100th anniversary for the expo and it’s a milestone the association is eager to share with the industry. IFAI expects thousands of stakeholders across the industry for four days of sourcing, education, and long-awaited social interaction. The goal of the Expo is to “Source new products and materials on the show floor, make new connections at various networking events and reconnect with your industry after a year of isolation,” according to the organizers. “We are very excited to be back in-person,” said Steve Schiffman, IFAI president and CEO. “The 100th anniversary of IFAI Expo 2021 will be held in Nashville, November 2-4, 2021, once again, bringing together the industry for the premier specialty textiles event in the U.S. We’ve put together a busy week packed with numerous opportunities to form meaningful connections, learn from the industry’s top experts, and have

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

Under the theme “Reconnect With Your Industry,” IFAI Expo returns to an in-person show for its 100th anniversary. TW Special Report fun in a town that is world renowned for entertainment.”

Expectations The show floor is expected to feature more than 300 exhibitors and the expo will offer multiple classroom and campfire education sessions segmented by market. The organizers have focused on creating a safe environment to “make new connections that last long after the event.”

Advanced Textiles Conference The Advanced Textiles Conference at IFAI Expo 2021 features three days of advanced textiles (AT) education sessions focusing on multiple important topics across the AT landscape. According to the organizers the conference kicks off Monday, November 1, with morning sessions happening also November 2 and 3.

The goal of the AT Conference is to help industry members stay informed on the latest products, technology and applications developing in the AT industry. An All Access Registration pass is required to attend. Registered attendees can choose from 18 unique, 50-minute-long classroom sessions and an opening plenary presentation. According to IFAI, the education tracks include Innovations in e-Textiles, Sustainability, Medical Textile Breakthroughs, Industry 4.0, and PPE and the Supply Chain in the Wake of COVID-19. In addition to the AT conference sessions, the All Access Registration includes the AT welcome lunch and closing reception on November 1, as well as the three days of show floor access; more than 28 hours of industry classroom education; show floor education, opening reception, keynote speakers and awards breakfast that is included with the Expo Plus registration. A basic show floor only registration option also is available. Attendees also may choose to add à-la-carte activities for an additional fee including the Industry Night event, Fabric Structures Summit (see below), Fun Run and Networking and Awards Breakfast.

As always, IFAI has enlisted an engaging keynote speaker. All attendees will be able to hear Steve Rizzo address the audience on Tuesday morning before the show floor opens. Rizzo is a Hall of Fame speaker and former national headline comedian.

New Expo Offerings IFAI has added two new features at IFAI Expo — a Fabric Structures Summit and the Show Floor Innovation Stage. The summit occupies half of the last day of the show with a “State of the Industry” panel focused on fabric structures in architecture, and an hour of round table discussions dealing with critical industry issues. The summit will close with a networking reception. On the final day of the expo, the Show Floor Innovation Stage will feature “a curated selection of IFAI partners presenting their latest and greatest onstage.” Company showcases, innovative products and services, case studies, and more, will be highlighted.

IFAI Expo 2021 Schedule Highlights Monday, November 1 Advanced Textiles (AT) Conference and Networking Reception . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.

Tuesday, November 2 *Downtown Nashville Fun Run/Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6:45 a.m. - 8 a.m. IFAI Keynote and Annual Meeting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8:30 a.m. - 9:45 a.m. AT Conference Sessions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m. - 11:50 a.m. Industry Classroom Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m. - noon Show Floor Open + Show Floor Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Industry Classroom Education. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. Opening Reception/100th Anniversary Celebration . . . . . . . . . . . . 5:00 p.m. - 6:30 p.m. Industry Night . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6:30 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.

Wednesday, November 3 *IFAI Annual Awards and Networking Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8:00 a.m. - 9:30 a.m. AT Conference Sessions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m. - 11:50 a.m. Industry Classroom Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m. - noon Show Floor Open + Show Floor Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Industry Classroom Education. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. Emerging Leaders Happy Hour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m.

Thursday, November 4 Closing Keynote. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m. - 9:50 a.m. Show Floor Open + Show Floor Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. *Fabric Structures Summit with Networking Reception . . . . . . . . . 1:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m. * Requires add-on purchase to registration

Safety Protocols IFAI reports that according to a Freeman Attendee Exhibitor survey from August 2021, more than 80-percent of IFAI Expo attendees are vaccinated. Organizers also have numerous safety mitigation protocols in place, and IFAI Expo is to be held at a Global Biorisk Advisory Council (GBAC)-certified facility. “We are confident that attendees and exhibitors can attend IFAI Expo and feel safe,” Schiffman said. For more information about our safety mitigation plan, please visit IFAIExpo.com. “People are ready to ‘get back to business’ and we are happy to provide that in-person venue to do that,” Schiffman noted. “We look forward to hosting you at IFAI Expo 2021 in Nashville!” TW For more information about IFAI Expo 2021 and details on the safety mitigation plan, please visit ifaiexpo.com

(information accurate as of TW’s press time)

Sponsors Apex Mills Corp. Autometrix Inc. Carolina CoverTech DAF Products Inc. Ennis Fabrics Eton Systems Inc. USA Fabrene Inc. Fasnap Corp. Forsstrom High Frequency AB Glen Raven Custom Fabrics

Haining Jinda Coating Herculite Products Inc. Hongyuan Hontex Jason Mills LLC Jomar Softcorp International Mermet Corp. Mexican Manufacturers Inc. Miller Weldmaster MMI Textiles Ribbon Webbing Corp. Sattler Corp.

Seaman Corp Spettmann USA Strataglass Trivantage LLC TVF Universal Screens Vintex Inc. W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. Zhejiang Hailide New Material Zhejiang Yuli New Material

Supporting Organizations Chemical Fabrics & Film Association Defense Logistics Agency Economic Development Partnership of North Carolina INDA - Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry International Sign Association Manufacturing & Textile Innovation Network NC State - Wilson College of Textiles NCTO - National Council of Textile Organizations SEAMS - The Association of the Sewn Products Industry

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

TECHTEXTIL NORTH AMERICA 2021 REVIEW

TTNA Offers

Positive Flow And An Industry’s Reemergence

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor; and Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor side from attendees trying to figure out whether they should shake hands, fist bump, elbow bump or “other” when greeting colleagues, and despite the mask mandate putting off a few attendees, the 2021 Techtextil North America show held recently in Raleigh, N.C., met or exceeded expectations for visitors and exhibitors alike. Many of the exhibitors Textile World spoke to had initial trepidations on how this year’s show would play out, however most offered very positive reviews. “We really didn’t know what to expect, but the show has been good for us, busier than expected” offered Datatex’s Shannon McCarthy. “We’ve had good volume and a good quality of visitors to our booth.” “We had 30 customers visit the booth on Monday, and I had said coming into this that if we had 30 customers over the course of the three-day show, it would be worth exhibiting,” said Brenda Stamboulian, Jason Mills LLC. “So, we are very happy.” “There really weren’t any expectations for this show because of everything happening around us, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the turnout,” added Franz Geppert, Monosuisse North America. “Each day has provided a consistent flow of

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existing and potential customers, which gave us enough time to hold good conversations and make some good contacts.” “It’s been a surprisingly good show and turnout,” said Lou Ott, Gentex. “It was good to be face-toface with people for a change without having a Zoom screen between us. And also having the time to catch up with friends and acquaintances — where they are, how they’re doing and all those personal things that you don’t have the opportunity to do on a zoom call — was great.” Many attendees noted this was their first entry into the real world again after being cooped up at home or travel restricted because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Though some said they were a bit hesitant to attend, they enjoyed being in a show environment for the first time in 18plus months. “It’s been great to be out and about again” stated Ernest Sumner of A.B. Carter. “We’ve been able to see and meet a lot of people that we hadn’t been able to catch up with or wouldn’t have known about had we not been here in Raleigh. We didn’t know who we needed to see until we saw them!” “Shows are a pain in the neck, but so worth it,” said Steve Aranoff, Zund America Inc. “As someone who has

participated on both sides as an exhibitor and an attendee, it’s hard to say which option is best. But we are such social characters. If I didn’t wander the show floor, I wouldn’t have met certain people to have conversations with and wouldn’t have learned what they know without engaging in that conversation.”

Educational Opportunities As always, Techtextil North America offered educational sessions through its symposium series that was conducted over the three days. The symposiums centered on this year’s theme of “Accelerating Technology,” and topics focused on: • Sustainability, Traceability and Supply-Chain Disruptions; • Digital Transformation Strategy; • High Performance Fibers: From Concept to Market; • Sustainability in Laundering & Textile Care; • A Full Embrace of Circularity in Textiles; • Sustainability Strategies to Protect Your Brand and Your Bottom Line; and • Manufacturing, Managing, and Regulating PPE — Now and into the Future. The content for this year’s sessions was expanded to include topics relevant to the apparel and textile laundering side of the industry to support the Texprocess Americas Pavilion and the new Textile Care Pavilion. The symposiums were interesting and well attended, leading to some lively discussions on sustainability, supply chain issues and concerns, and in several cases, the art of surviving in a pandemic. The Academy was new on the show floor in 2021. This free, show floor education opportunity combined the Tech Talks and The Lab premise from past shows. The presentations covered a wide variety of subjects within the technical textiles and nonwovens arena, with sessions on antiviral textiles and the “Testing Water Resistance of PPE Fabrics” the most well attended.

As always, student research was on view at the show through the Student Research Poster Program. Both graduate and undergraduate students from textile engineering programs in the Southeast region used the opportunity to share their findings with peers and potential employers. Some of the students also were given the opportunity to present their research at The Academy. The Sewn Products Equipment and Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) also collocated its 10th Advancements in Manufacturing Technologies conference with Techtextil North America. The single-day event focused on how the sewn products industry will operate in a postCOVID-19 world. A series of four panel discussions featured speakers from a variety of companies including Henderson Sewing Machine Co.; Shima Seiki; DAP America Inc.; Gerber Technology, a Lectra company; Morgan Tecnica America Inc.; Mitsubishi Electric Industrial Sewing Machines; Brother International Corp.; Shimmy Technologies; Motif; and the Zeis Textiles Extension at North Carolina State University. “This year’s Advancements Conference was unique in many ways,” said SPESA President Michael McDonald. “It happened at a time when the industry has seen substantial change over the past two years. It brought together a lineup of new industry experts. And it served as a milestone moment for SPESA — it was the first in-person event we’ve hosted in more than eighteen months. This industry thrives on networking and engagement. It’s a true community!”

Social Opportunities The after-show meetings and gatherings — where many members of the industry say is where much of the business actually gets done — were numerous and varied. SPESA and Techtexil North America sponsored the official opening day reception, while day two’s happy hour was hosted by the North Carolina Textile Foundation and NC

SPESA’s Michael McDonald (right) with Techtextil North America participants during the opening day reception. Inset: Attendees received German beer steins stamped with the slogan “I spent a year without trade shows and all I got was this lousy mug.”

State’s Wilson College of Textiles — Techtextil North America’s official Academic Partner. On Tuesday evening after the Techtextil North America show floor closed for the day, Lawrenceville, N.J.-based Datacolor hosted a cocktail reception at NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles to celebrate a donation of state-of-the-art color management equipment and software valued at $270,000 to the school. According to Datacolor, the full suite of software licenses and instruments provides “immediate hand-on learning opportunities for the textile professionals of tomorrow.” The color lab houses all the equipment and tools needed to measure color and visually assess materials to ensure they conform to AATCC, ISO and ASTM International standards; including the latest Datacolor handheld ColorReaderPRO devices donated earlier this year. “At Datacolor, we recognize the importance of color education, and we are proud to support the Wilson College of Textiles at NC State,” said Albert Busch, president and CEO, Datacolor. “By equipping the Datacolor Color Science Lab with our state-of-the-art software and instruments, we want to provide the next generation of color experts a chance to practice what they learn as they prepare for a career in color.” “NC State has always been at the

forefront of innovation,” said Dr. Renzo Shamey, director of Color Science and Imaging Laboratories, NC State. “Through our partnership with Datacolor, NC State students now have a unique opportunity to work with innovative industry-grade color management equipment, providing them with invaluable hands-on experience and unparalleled access to technology that will help them succeed well beyond their time here.”

Overall Consensus The general conclusion is that Techtextil North America 2021 met, or exceeded, most expectations and offered a much-needed positive start as the textile world emerges from a rough year and a half. “We were thrilled with the turnout in Raleigh,” said Kristy Meade, vice president of Technical Textiles & Technology Shows at Messe Frankfurt North America. “It was so great to see the amount of business being done on the show floor, and the feedback we’ve received since has absolutely confirmed that the industry was desperately in need of an in-person event. Our goal was to provide a platform for the industry to reunite and get back to business after the rough 18-plus months we’ve all endured due to COVID-19, and I believe we more than succeeded in doing so.” Here’s to the industry continuing the momentum forward! TW

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

COMPANY PROFILE

Schneider weaves acetate, polyester and nylon yarns using air-jet and water-jet looms.

Schneider Mills:

Challenge Accepted

eet George Shtohryn and Tim Little, the dynamic duo at the helm of fourth-generation, family-owned company Schneider Mills Inc., Taylorsville, N.C. The co-presidents split management duties with Shtohryn handling sales and fabric development from a New York City-based office, and Little overseeing production at the company’s 450,000-square-foot, state-ofthe-art weaving mill in Taylorsville. Shtohryn is the more outgoing and gregarious of the two, as one might expect from someone in sales; and Little slightly more reserved. But both are equally passionate about what they do and the company they work for. Between them they have 64 years with the company — Little in his 39th year and Shtohryn his 25th year. The company also has 15 employees on staff with more than 40 years of service and one lab employee celebrating her 50th year with the Schneider Mills this year. Amazingly, Mary Wike, a long-time lab employee who sadly passed away last year, had spent 62 years as a Schneider employee.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

Deep rooted family values and a growth mindset keep technical weaving company Schneider Mills well-positioned for the future. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor

The company states it was “built upon Samuel Schneider’s ethic for family, work and community,” and clearly, this technical weaving company is a special place to work as illustrated by the long tenure of so many employees.

Small Beginnings Founded in 1917 by Samuel Schneider, the company began life as a small silk weaving business in Haledon, N.J. The company expanded in the Northeast and developed a reputation within the New York converting trade. In 1938, Schneider’s oldest son, Isadore Schneider, took over running

the business. Isadore managed sales, while his brother Albert was over manufacturing. In 1946, the company established a manufacturing operation in Taylorsville, N.C., where it ultimately consolidated its manufacturing operations. “Schneider was following a trend that I think a lot of companies in the textile industry and other businesses were caught up in during the 1940s, which was to move further and further south,” Shtohryn said. “The trend was based on the labor situation and lack of unionization.” “The company picked Alexander County, N.C., because it’s the largest county in North Carolina by land, but had least amount manufacturing in the state,” Little added. “The Schneider’s figured there were farm hands with families in the county and perhaps they could introduce some of those people to manufacturing.” Albert and Isadore both passed away in recent decades leaving the company in the hands of the next generation.

Capabilities, Products Over the company’s 100-yearplus history, its product line and manufacturing capabilities have evolved. The company’s focus today is on technical woven fabrics, and it sells exclusively greige fabric made using nylon, polyester or acetate ranging from 30 to as high as 1,260 denier. Fabrics may have plain or fancy dobby patterns and range in weight from 0.5 to 12 ounces per square yard. The undyed fabrics, though some may be solution-dyed, require downstream processing by Schneider’s customers to meet the requirements for the targeted end-use. In some cases, the same base fabric can end up in entirely different applications depending on the type and number of downstream processes it is subjected to. “We take the raw yarns and weave them to a specification required by our customers, who then treat the fabric in additional processing steps to make it end-use specific,” Shtohryn said. “There are so many things that happen to our fabric in downstream processing. It almost always starts with scouring. From there, fabrics may be dyed, printed and heat-set. Some customers might apply durable waterrepellent or flame-retardant finishes. Others may coat and/or laminate the fabric. We have one particular customer who subjects our fabric to more than 20 different steps in downstream processing to meet their specifications.” A large portion of Schneider’s fabrics end up in military applications. Additionally, these same fabrics might be used by law enforcement, the FBI, and U.S. Forest Service, among other government agencies. End products include backpacks, human and cargo parachutes, as well as protective equipment such as vests. “We hold the Berry Amendment very, very dear,” Shtohryn said. “It is very important to our business, and also assures that our military is supplied with consistent products

that live up to specifications.” The Berry Amendment requires that the U.S. Department of Defense procure goods — which includes clothing, fabrics, fibers, yarns and other madeup textiles — produced in the United States and not from foreign sources. Applications for the products aren’t limited to just military and protective equipment end-uses however. Schneider’s acetate taffeta winds up in surgical tape. Another substrate is silicon coated and used in airbags. The company also has a large business in fabrics for country and organizational flags and banners. “Some of our customers own their own processing facilities, and there are other independent processing facilities that many of our customers use,” Shtohryn noted. “There is an agility to our distribution, and there is a specialty in some of these processing facilities that perhaps the larger companies do not have.”

Flexibility, Accepting Of Change Little notes that the company is highly flexible from the machinery it operates, to the mindset of the employees running the constantly changing products. “I can remember one of Albert’s old sayings — the loom doesn’t care what kind of fiber it’s running, it just has to be flexible enough to run the different fibers,” Little stated. “That’s one of the key things they did here is to build the manufacturing plant based on flexibility.” According to Little, in the years he’s worked at Schneider Mills, the company has moved from Draper looms to rapier machines to water-jet and air-jet weaving machines. Weaving speeds currently range between 800 and 1,100 picks per minute. “We pride ourselves on the speeds we run and the quality that comes off the looms,” Little said. “Most people are reluctant to change,” Little said. “But out in the mill, our employees know that what’s running on the loom today, may not be there tomorrow. We may have a loom running a 30-denier parachute

From top to bottom: Warper creels; Off-loom take-ups in the weaving room; (left to right): Rob Gimblet, Weave Room superintendent, Curt Parker, vice president of operations, and Chip Swinnie, vice president of manufacturing, who have 31, 30 and 20 years of service respectively with Schneider Mills.

fabric today, and tomorrow, we need to run a 1,000-denier Cordura® on the same machine. Our employees know to expect change, they accept it, and that makes us strong.” Little and Shtohryn also credit much of the company’s success to its

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

(left to right): Tyler Black, Weave Room department manager, air jets; Debbie Vaughn, Cloth Room department manager; and Warping Department employees Valerie James (front) with Bridgett Cox.

philosophy of never saying “no.” Schneider is quite often approached by a customer that knows the company’s capabilities and has a particular fabric construction in mind. “’Do you think we can develop this product together?’ is a question we are often asked,” Shtohryn mentioned. “Knowing the diverse capabilities and expertise at the plant, along with the willingness of our plant associates, the answer is almost always yes. “It’s a company-wide philosophy that goes back to Albert and Isadore who said send us a sample, and we’ll make it,” Shtohryn continued. “No one says no, at least not without trying!” “I’m not saying we can make everything,” Little added. “But we will give it a try and the flexibility in the plant allows us to do just that. The only limitations are the minimum and maximum widths.”

Agility Agile also is a word Shtohryn used to describe the company. “It’s manufacturing agility, it’s marketing agility, and it’s also from a strong financial backbone the company possesses,” Shtohryn noted. “Today, we consider ourselves to be professionally run, yet family owned. And we have the full support of the family to do what’s necessary to keep the business thriving the way it has for more than 100 years.”

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Labor, Supply Chain Challenges Recently, the company has experienced some labor challenges and supply chain issues. “There have been labor challenges nationwide and we’re not immune to that,” Shtohryn said. “But we were quite fortunate and did not have to furlough during the initial stages of the pandemic. However, as for many companies today, labor availability remains challenging for Schneider.” “Speaking of the workforce, we are very fortunate in some ways,” Little added. “We’ve actually gained some employees now that the unemployment situation has changed. And we have second-, third- and even some fourth-generation family employees working at Schneider. That family aspect has really helped us keep employees on staff.” But Schneider Mills wants to shake the general perception that the textile industry is not a glamorous sector to work in. The U.S. textile industry has changed immeasurably since the days of sweatshops; the movie “Norma Rae;” and dingy, dusty cotton plants. The industry is modern and high tech — both in the products it makes and the facilities that make them — and Schneider is a perfect example of a modern, technical weaving plant. “Even though we are a technical weaver, we still suffer the stigma of textiles from long ago,” Little said.

“We have highly technical, computerized machines and we are trying to strongly promote that idea in our community and make known the employment opportunities available at Schneider Mills. We still have a difficult time getting across the idea that it is not the textile industry of years ago.” Supply chain issues — from occasional spare parts or raw materials shortages and surcharges, as well as increased shipping costs — have not impacted Schneider Mills’ philosophy of doing business. “Since we are generally speaking in partnership with our supply chain, we’re not the only ones having to pass on various increases,” Shtohryn said. “There truly is a partnership approach in our distribution, and we’re in this to survive together and thrive together.”

Business Diversification Approximately 12 years ago, Albert Schneider began researching carbon fiber weaving as a way to use the company’s expertise and branch out. The end result is a wholly owned subsidiary of Schneider Mills named Composite Fabrics of America (CFA). The business is run by Albert’s grandson, Matthew McPherson. CFA weaves carbon and para-aramid fibers for composite applications in aerospace, automotive, recreation and infrastructure repair markets. “The business is still young, but we’re doing some pretty neat

(left to right): Brian Ellis, Weave Room supervisor; Andrea Carter inspecting fabric; and Weaver Kathy Childers inspecting fabric.

things,” Little said. “These markets are really highly specified and hard to get into, but the business is growing and it’s a different avenue for us to use our expertise in weaving.” “CFA is an off-shoot and a different market, but I do think it complements our business,” Shtohryn said. “We have customers because of their exposure to military technology, mostly through soft goods, that touch on the fringes of fabrics for hard goods. This has created some opportunities for CFA that we hope will bear fruit.”

Innovation is one of the best defenses, along with the Berry Amendment, that we have as a company and as a supply chain. It’s also that cooperative effort that goes into maintaining or gaining efficiencies to keep a robust supply chain. As soon as someone thinks they are going to knock us off, we’re on to the next thing.”

Agility, flexibility, a growth mindset and strong family values define Schneider Mills. The lessons learned from previous generations — including the philosophy of never saying “no” — puts the company in a great position for the future. The family business and Albert and Isadore’s legacy remains in good hands. TW

Well Positioned For The Future “You never know what’s going to happen tomorrow as far as the challenges that may come our way,” Little mused. “The fact we don’t say no to anything makes every day challenging. What we are doing, is trying to do it better every day. Trying to find a way to make sure the quality is better and trying to reduce the price by even just half a penny per yard to stay competitive. There is always something we can do better.” “Our customer base is highly entrepreneurial, extremely creative and many of the individuals have been around for a while,” Shtohryn said. “Over time we have built a strong level of communication and trust. It’s a great supply chain to be a part of.

Custom Monofilaments for Filtration & Technical Fabrics

ISO 9001:2015 Certified Manufactured in USA

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WEAVING

The Itematech A95002

Weaving Machine

Developments The star of the weaving room continues to advance, offering added value and higher quality to finished products.

TW Special Report

ven though, in most cases, the weaving process is the same as it ever was — create a shed, insert the filling and beat up the pick — today’s weaving machines are highly technical instruments featuring numerous innovations that have sped-up production, improved quality and saved energy. Many of the latest developments in weaving machines have focused on automation, digital upgrades and innovative end products that add value including technical textiles, etextiles and 3D structures. “With labor shortages impacting every weaving mill in North America, we see increasing demand from our customers for automation technologies for the weaving mill,” said Oliver Meier, Textile director, North America, Stäubli. “Additionally, in the residential contract business, we see a trend developing for greater jacquard machine flexibility to address a wide range of fabric con-

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

structions that can satisfy market demands faster.” Here, Textile World presents a few of the weaving machine innovations available to weavers in all end-use markets.

Weaving Machines Italy-based Itema S.p.A. today combines the historic weaving brands of Somet, Sultex and Vamatex, which the company reports “combines Swiss precision with Italian creativity.” In 2019, the company also established Itematech — a new technical division devoted to weaving machines for technical fabrics — after it acquired Italy-based Panter/PTMT. The alliance of Itema with Panter produced a product portfolio that includes negative and positive rapier machines as well as air-jet and projectile offerings. The company established Itematech with the aim of providing technical fabric producers a partner that offers a

complete range of weaving solutions and a skilled technical team to help fulfill specific customer requirements for technical fabrics. Itema reports the Itematech A9500 2 air-jet weaving machine is especially welcomed in demanding weaving markets in the United States, Russia and India, among other countries. The machine combines two Itema technologies — for shed geometry and air-jet weft insertion — to guarantee high-quality fabrics even when weaving at high speeds. The machine was tested in realworld scenarios during customer trials; and according to Itema, the A95002 demonstrated the ability to avoid “so-called ‘snarls,’” and also delivered “excellent results” when weaving high-density fabrics. Itema customers are currently using the machine for medical, automotive and parachute applications, among other applications. The A95002 features a reinforced whip roller that eliminates friction to improve warp tension control and reduce warp stops. The machine also has a longer dwell time for the cam sley drive to allow a longer weft insertion time for more efficient weft filling. The machine’s double tandem nozzles also play a key role when weaving the coarsest yarns at high speeds. Itema offers two technologies for leno binding on the A95002. The patented Electronic Leno Device (ELD), features an innovative design that guarantees perfect leno binding with reduced operational costs, according to the company. The Rotary Leno Device (RLD) is suitable for most man-made fiber yarns. Belgium-based Picanol NV specializes in air-jet and rapier weaving machines. The company recently introduced the TerryPlus-i air-jet weaving machine with a completely new pile formation system capable of creating any pile height from 0 to 12 millimeters on a pick-by-pick basis regardless of the pattern. “It doesn’t matter if it’s high pile, low pile, high

Smit’s machinery is suitable for weaving carbon fiber fabrics.

density, low density, complex styles or simple styles — [the TerryPlus-i] can handle any challenge,” said Johan Verstraete, vice president, Weaving Machines, Picanol. Other innovations include: • the GTMax-i 3.0S rapier weaving machine with full electronic monitoring and control, SUMO main motor and microprocessor-controlled filling insertion; and • the OptiMax-i rapier machine designed for gentle treatment of all kinds of weft yarns; and may be easily modified, retrofitted and upgraded as needed as a result of its modular design concept. Picanol just launched PicConnect, a new fully digital platform that supports Internet of Things (IoT) and service-related applications, and also acts as a gateway to all Picanol’s digital services. The web-based, cloud application may be accessed using a web browser on any device. All machines can be connected to the cloud to leverage all four of the platform’s applications — production monitoring, energy monitoring, style administration and PartsLine, Picanol’s new online web store. Using the production monitoring application, users can track production in real-time and immediately react to operational tasks to increase efficiency and view historical data to determine where action may need to be taken to optimize production. PicConnect’s energy monitoring application surveils air and power consumption of the weaving machines. According to Picanol, insight into the energy flow in the weave room can help reduce overall energy costs. Machine settings may be opened, edited and managed quickly using PicConnect’s style administration application. Operators can compare and copy settings between machines on the plant floor ensuring each machine is operating under optimal settings for each fabric woven.

PicConnect’s PartsLine online web store for spare parts allows customers to receive price quotes, review orders and receive invoices. “PicConnect is a new platform that makes it possible for weavers to quickly react to changes in the weave room, and that will have an immediate impact on the performance of the machines in various aspects,” said Erwin Devloo, Picanol’s marketing communication manager. “This new Picanol platform is only the start of a whole new story with new applications in the future that Picanol is continuously working on.” Italy-based SMIT joined the Santex Rimar Group a few years ago. The company has been manufacturing weaving machines since 1938, specializing in rapier technology. SMIT most recently introduced the 2FAST rapier weaving machine. The name FAST is an acronym for Flexible Advanced Shuttleless Technology. SMIT relates the engineering of its 2FAST “racing machine” to the country’s tradition and expertise in motor sports. According to SMIT, the 2FAST shows high starting acceleration and 100-percent beat-up efficiency right from the first weft insertion. The machine also features maximum torque for heavy shedding requirements, and minimum vibration even at top operating speeds. The modular concept machine incorporates the new leno-force system, which is adaptable for different fabric types. Operators can program the false selvedge and leno yarn crossing pick-by-pick for each side of the fabric independently to control weft stretching and reduce weft tail. A new patented gripper design works will all weft yarns and fabric styles;

Picanol’s new PicConnect fully digital platform acts as a gateway to all Picanol’s digital services.

and 2FAST can also handle fancy articles with weft yarns that vary in size and style. The machine was also designed with energy-saving goals in mind. 2FAST is suitable for apparel, denim and home textile fabrics, as well as technical fabrics. “Software-based control and automation, smart algorithms and data analysis — it’s all embodied in this rapier loom, which is ready for Industry 4.0,” said Giuseppe Castelli, chief technology officer, SMIT. “We are very proud of all advantages embodied in the compact design of the new 2FAST and we are glad to speak it out loud — while also using advanced technology to make the machine itself even quieter.” SMIT also offers the ONE modular concept based on the GS940 Smart Platform architecture. The company reports the machine is “extremely” versatile thanks to its dynamically controlled flexible tape rapier that works with reed widths between 140 to 220 centimeters. The insertion system is based on just the one rapier with no weft transfer taking place in the middle of the shed. Speeds This mode of operation allows low weft tensions to be used

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

and reduces the warp shed amplitude for increased efficiency, reduces the machine’s energy consumption, makes style changes faster, and increases the range of yarns that the machine can handle, according to SMIT. The company’s Free Flight Ribbon System also eliminates the ribbon guide hooks for further reduced operating costs. ONE will produce high-quality fabrics for any sector, carbon fiber technical fabrics included, according to SMIT. After the second World War, Germany-based Lindauer Dornier GmbH turned to engineering weaving machines when the company was prohibited from manufacturing aircraft in Germany. Today, the company engineers rapier and air-jet machines that are particularly suitable for technical weaving applications such as airbags and bulletproof products, but also capable of producing pure silk fabrics, jacquard items and delicate worsted fabrics. According to the company, the Dornier P2 rapier machine is a most flexible weaving machine. “We cover the entire spectrum of fabric production from very fine to very coarse fabrics,” said Wolfgang Schöffl, head of Dornier’s weaving machine product line. The company reports some customers are using the P2 for filtration fabrics. “In order to continuously improve the tightness and quality of filter fabrics, we are further developing our machines in close cooperation with our customers,” Schöffl said. Other customers are using the P2 to weave fabrics for artistic installations. Bulgarian artist/sculptor Christo, known for his fabricwrapped creations and outdoor sculptures created with his wife Jeanne-Claude, passed away in 2020 before he was able to carry out a planned exhibit to cover the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. However, his

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nephew Vladmir Yavachev, set out to accomplish Christo’s last work, and the fabric produced for the installation was created using Dornier’s P2 weaving machine. Some 25,000square-meters of silver-blue recycled polypropylene coated fabric was woven by Germany-based SETEX Textil. “Only one weaving machine came into question for this demanding fabric,” said Konrad Schröer, owner and managing director of Setex. “The ideal solution is the P2 with its new shed geometry and increased performance in combina-

Tsudakoma’s ZAX9200i

tion with our experienced weavers and their textile know-how.” The P2 rapier machine is also an integral part of Dornier’s Composite Systems® product line (See “Reintro-

ducing DORNIER’s Composite Systems® Suite,” TW, this issue”). Tsudakoma Corp. is a Japanbased manufacturer of air-jet and water-jet looms. The company recently introduced the ZAX001neo air-jet loom and the ZW8200 water-jet loom. Both machines feature a newly designed robust frame structure. On the air-jet loom, this new frame contributes 30-percent reduction in vibration compared to its predecessor, the ZAX9200i. Among many features of the new model, the ZAX001neo features an integrated auxiliary main nozzle in a pipeless system, which reduces residual compressed air and increases the weft feeding force to minimize broken or slack picks. The FDP-A IV Electronic Free Drum Pooling System ensures stable weft insertion, and makes pos-

sible soft weft insertion for sensitive yarns. The pre-winding direction on the FDP also may be adjusted to account for the twist direction of the yarns being woven. Tsudakoma also designed a new heddle frame for ultra-high-speed production. Tsudakoma reports the new ZW8200 water-jet weaving machine offers a 10-percent increase in machine rpms, a 10-percent reduction in water consumption, and is clean to operate with a 70-percent reduction of grease into the drainage system, compared to existing models. The company also offers the CR3300 for technical fabrics such as composite fabrics, or those made using carbon, aramid or glass fibers. The CR3300 features a one-side band rapier mechanism with guideless and slay running system; explosionproof electric components to prevent fire from carbon flies; a positive cam for 1/1 plain or twill weaves; and regular or special feeders depending on whether twisted or flat weft yarns will be used. Belgium-based Van de Wiele NV has been a player in the carpet weaving market since 1880. The company’s face-to-face carpet weaving technique first creates a 3D structure by connecting pile yarns between two ground structures. The pile yarns are then cut down the middle to produce two symmetrical carpets. The Rug & Carpet Expert RCE2+ is Van de Wiele’s latest generation double rapier face-to-face carpet weaving machine. According to the company, the technology features fewer mechanics and more electronics for high-capacity production. The company also offers velvet and technical fabric weaving machines, finishing machines, and bulk-continuous filament extrusion lines. Earlier this year, Van de Wiele acquired the Italy-based Savio Group, further diversifying its textile

portfolio with the addition of yarn winding and quality control devices.

Narrow Fabrics: Müller Switzerland-based Jakob Müller AG Frick has 134 years of knowhow in narrow fabric weaving. Its machinery is used to create products for a myriad of end products including those used in automotive, fashion, industrial, medical and home textile applications. The NFM® is Müller’s latest generation of narrow fabric loom. This universal series of machine’s is based on the company’s successful NF and NH looms, and was designed for light- to medium-weight elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics made using all yarn types. The machine is available in two base models — the NFM 53 and NFM 80. According to the company, the machines are simple to modify or convert because of a modular design. Customers can easily exchange weaving heads to change the tape width, exchange a complete cross beam, expand the machine to Müller’s NFMJ, and the machines also are prepared for MDW ® , its Multi Directional Weaving functional and effect thread placing device.

Stäubli’s S3260 electronic rotary dobby

The NFM series features infinitely adjustable, electronically controlled stepper drives for the weft, binder and locking threads, rubber transport and fabric take-off. An electronic main drive also may be regulated at any time. NFM machines feature a MÜDATA M touch screen and the

latest MLC control system with networking capability. Müller also offers the MÜGRIP® MBJ8 1/1380 label weaving machine for labels and pictures with slit selvedges. The machine has a maximum nominal width of 1,346 millimeters. Features include the SPE3/SPE3M jacquard head; MLC machine control/network ready; Müdata M touchscreen; rapier drive; lightweight universal rapier for extended head and tape life; and electronically controlled IRO Luna X3 weft thread feeders for up to 12 colors.

Shedding Technologies: Stäubli Switzerland-based Stäubli Group, with its U.S. textile headquarters located in Duncan, S.C., specializes in shedding solutions for both frame and jacquard weaving, weaving preparation technologies

(See “Weaving: Auxiliary Equipment Matters,” TW, this issue ), and carpet weaving machines under the Schönherr Stäubli brand name. “Our customers are looking for solutions that are adapted to their needs to stay at the forefront of their market,” said Fritz Legler, marketing and sales, Stäubli. “We provide quality, highspeed machinery made of first-class materials combined with ingenious R&D as a result of our long-lasting experience and partnering with our customers.” Stäubli offers the highspeed S3200 series of electronic rotary dobbies for air-jet weaving along with maintenance-free harness motions. According to the company, integrating such a combination into the weaving machine is a key to precise shed formation when the highest operating speeds and precision are required. Stäubli also offers the S1600 and S1700 series cam motions for plain weaves, such as denim, on air-jet and rapier weaving machines. Stäubli is well-known for its extensive range of jacquard weaving machinery for a variety of applications

Müller’s NFM® with MDW® thread placing device

including flat fabrics, terry, carpeting, velvets, narrow fabrics and technical fabrics. Technologies include: • LXXL Series, which supports any large weaving pattern from airbag to upholstery weaving where repeats are not necessary. • LX and LXL, which support multi repeat to single repeat weaving. The LXL12288 and LXL14336 — where 12,288 and 14,336 denotes the number of hooks available to control the warp — are used in onepiece woven airbag applications. • SX, a workhorse jacquard machine for all types of fabrics requiring 2,688 warps ends or multiples of that number. • LX2493 jacquard machine for technical and carpet solutions with one of the largest shed openings on the market, according to Stäubli. • N4L, which was designed to support dobby weavers who wish to add a unique look or brand name in the selvedge. • UNIVAL 100, which is Stäubli’s most versatile jacquard machine featuring an individual servo motor, called an actuator, to control each warp thread. Customers in the technical weaving arena can also take advantage of Stäubli’s new TF weaving system series dedicated to reinforcing multilayer fabrics made using carbon or aramid, and heavy industrial fabrics. The series may be paired with the S2688 or Unival 500 for dobby weaving; or the LX2493 or Unival 100 plus Stäubli harnesses for most complex jacquard applications. TW

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

WEAVING

McCoy Machinery’s Model 300 Industrial Filament Warping System

Weaving: Auxiliary Equipment Matters Weaving is a complex process requiring technology beyond the weaving machine for the highest-quality fabrics.

TW Special Report

he weaving machine is the star of the weaving room. It’s the largest, most obvious piece of technology on the plant floor turning out fabric at high rates of speed. Weaving auxiliaries in most cases, don’t particularly stand out. But they are just as important and as high tech and innovative as the weaving machines they support. The weaving process is finely controlled from warping and beaming through to finished fabric and the auxiliary processes add value and quality to the finished fabrics. Read on to learn about some of the latest auxiliary weaving developments and high-quality equipment available for the sector, as well as companies providing technologies.

Warp Preparation McCoy Machinery Co. Inc., Monroe, N.C., has produced warp preparation machinery for the past 57 years. Its portfolio includes creel tension control technology as well as high-volume warping systems for weavers. All its machinery is produced at its facility in Monroe. “The very first place people look in most weaving factories is at the

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looms,” said Kevin S. Ahlstrom, McCoy president. “They marvel at how the fabric is so uniform and quickly produced. What they don’t understand is that without proper tension control in warp preparation, this beautiful fabric would not look so pretty.” According to Ahlstrom, proper fabric formation begins in the warping room. “Without proper tension control on, let’s say 1,320 ends of 30 denier nylon, you will probably see streaks, ridges and tapered beams, and thus poor fabric formation as well as inefficiencies in loom performance,” Ahlstrom noted. Ahlstrom reports the Model 300 Direct Warper is the battleship of McCoy’s product range. The warper is capable of producing 21-inch, dual 21-inch, 42-inch, 54-inch and 72inch warp beams all on one machine. The M300 combined with the Model 370 S-Roll with its circumference control capabilities, is a perfect solution for high volume/high-quality warping customers. McCoy’s M101 warper is its industry standard for spun yarn warping customers. The company also continues to offer its Whorl™,

Magnatense™, Dual Powerdisc™ and Post/Disc tension devices. According to Ahlstrom, its triple threat of manufacturing, service and support all provided in the United States is its strength. “From the fiber package to the warp beam, McCoy manufactures and supports every component in between that helps our domestic textile manufacturers perform at the highest standards,” Ahlstrom said. In addition to its knitting and technical textiles innovations, Germany-based Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH also offers a variety of warp preparation solutions for weaving. Most recently, Karl Mayer introduced the PROWARP® high-performance sectional warping machine supplied with communication, measuring and control technologies. Prowarp is suitable for all material types and combinations for both technical and traditional weaving applications. The HT machine configuration is designed for warp beams needed for technical fabrics; and for apparel and home textiles applications, the Prowarp can produce warp beams needed for detailed patterned and colored fabrics. To satisfy this wide range of applications, the Prowarp has a working width of up to 5.6 meters and offers pulling forces of up to 40,000 Newtons. The machine can reach speeds of up to 1,000 meters per minute (m/min) for warping, and up to speeds of up to 500 m/min for beaming. According to Karl Mayer, Prowarp’s layer regulating system results in 30-percent higher performance in warp preparation, and an increase in efficiency during weaving of up to 5 percent. Karl Mayer’s MULTI-MATIC® 32 fully automatic, single-end sample and production warping machine is designed for short running lengths and operates most efficiently at run lengths of 200 to 400 meters. The 32 in the name references the number of bobbins, which allows for a

smaller creel that can be configured and arranged depending on the yarn quality. The Multi-Matic also is available in a 64 and 128 bobbin version. Drawing on its experience over three generations combined with its current technology and marketplace demands, Spain-based Construcciones Mataro Servicios y Asistencia Tecnica S.L. (COMSAT) designed the Tecmat warper to be versatile while maximizing productivity. The warper features: • automatic warp section tension control to guarantee identical length and tension of the yarns independent of the bobbin diameter and warping speed; • automatic feed system, which combined with an evener roll ensures warp sections with identical diameters; • automatic beaming tension control that allows speed changes and machine stops while maintaining constant tension; and • intuitive software, touch-screen controls, and an ethernet connection for remote diagnostics and software updates. COMSAT is represented in the United States by Lang Ligon & Co. Inc., Greenville, S.C.

Drawing-In & Tying Switzerland-based Stäubli Group has been active in the North American textile market since the 1950s, but has been engineering textile weaving solutions for 125 years. The company specializes in jacquard heads for individual warp yarn control, but also enables mills to increase production speeds with its pre-weaving automated solutions for leasing, drawing in and tying. According to the company, the SAFIR S60 automatic drawing-in machine enables the repeat-specific distribution of the warp yarns into drop wires, heddles and reed in a single cycle and features state-of-the-art Active Warp Control (AWC) technology. Stäubli also now offers initial Conditions Settings (ICS) for handling specific yarn properties efficiently. Stäubli

Stäubli Group offers the TIEPRO high-performance warp tying machine for standard warp yarns.

reports all its weaving preparation solutions support perfect warp production, which enhances downstream weaving processes for larger volumes of first-quality output. Stäubli also offers a collection of warp tying machines — the TIEPRO, TOPMATIC and MAGMA. “Today’s tying equipment requires a simple and fast set up,” said Oliver Meier, Textile director, North America, Staubli. “Customers demand high reliability with very limited maintenance, and Stäubli strives to provide our customers what they are looking for.” The Tiepro is suitable for knotting all standard staple-fiber yarns from warp sheets with or without a 1:1 lease. The Tiepro is controlled by a touchscreen, which also displays information to the operator such as tying rate and number of knots.

Tiepro features an advanced sensor for double-end detection. If a double end is found, an auto-reverse process kicks in and restarts the separation process without operator intervention. Topmatic, engineered for knotting fine yarns, can tie almost any staplefiber or filament yarn in single or double knots at a rate of up to 600 knots per minute. The machine monitors double ends mechanically as well as using a piezoelectric sensor to detect double ends in a warp sheet. Stäubli’s Magma tying solution was developed for weavers of technical textiles and was designed to work with yarns on the coarse side. The machine can tie single or double knots in polypropylene tapes, aramid yarns, coarse multifilaments, and monofilaments up to a diameter of 0.5 millimeters. Four miniature cameras on the Magma monitor the separation process as the yarns from the bottom and top warp sheets are separated from a 1:1 lease. If an error is detected, the machine stops prior to cutting any yarns to reduce double end fault repair. Stäubli reports the Magma also handles different types of yarns within the same warp with no issue. All three models create short knot ends for optimal pulling through on the weaving machine. Germany-based Groz-Beckert KG — a provider of industrial machine needles, precision parts, tools, and systems and services for textiles manufacturing — recently expanded its weaving preparation portfolio with the addition of the WarpMasterPlus — a system based on its established WarpM a s t e r c o n c e p t but

The WarpMasterPlus from Groz-Beckert offers maximum flexibility with minimal setup requirements, according to the company.

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

Above: Palmetto Loom Reed supplies custom-made and specialty loom parts including high-performance stretch nozzles. Right: Loepfe Brothers’ WeftMaster SFB weft thread brake.

designed to speed up the drawing-in of warp beams. Individual lengths of yarn from a single bobbin are used to automatically draw in the drop wires, heddles and reed components off-loom. The individual lengths are secured so that the harnesses can be loaded into the weaving machine when ready. Then a standard tying-in process is implemented to tie-in the new warp beam quickly and efficiently, greatly reducing machine downtime related to beam or style changeovers. WarpMasterPlus can draw in up to 150 threads per minute. The machine is built in a modular fashion to increase the ease of maintenance and service, as well as realize customer-specific machine lengths if a customer requires a length other than the 2.4 meter and 4.0 meter standard lengths offered. Spain-based Titan Textile Machines S.L. — a manufacturer of warp tying machines and reed drawing-in machines and systems, represented in the United States by Lang Ligon & Co. Inc., Greenville, S.C. — offers the Challenge drawing-in system. According to Harrell W. Ligon, president, Lang Ligon, the

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semiautomatic Challenge system is a cheaper alternative for smaller mills on a budget allowing them to double production without investing in expensive, fully automated machinery. The Challenge also simplifies the drawing-in process for inexperienced personnel. A modular system, Challenge may be configured to suit every company’s needs. Ligon reports a U.S. customer has installed a Challenge in its mill after seeing the machine in production in France.

Reeds, Combs And Heddles Palmetto Loom Reed Co., Greenville, S.C., is a locally based, family-owned business with current President and CEO Gladys Richardson the fourth generation owner. The company manufactures reeds and combs for the U.S. market, but also makes specialty parts mostly for airjet looms. “We have a fully functioning machine shop that allows us to make custom-fabricated parts,” said

Director of Sales Philip Gilliland. “We pride ourselves on our service and even help our customers solve weaving problems. We engage in research and development with our customers to make new reeds for particular fabrics, as well as other machine and loom parts as required.” Inconsistent pick insertion, or slack picks, can turn back into the woven shed creating a defect in the finished fabric. Gilliland reports that Palmetto Reed supplies stretch nozzles that create a high centrifugal force to pull each pick as tight as possible as an alternative to standard nozzles on airjet weaving machines for improved overall quality. The company also offers a Dynamic Pressure Gauge kit to check a reed’s air flow and relay nozzle settings right at the machine. Established in 1938, Carolina Loom Reed Co. Inc., Greensboro, N.C., is a family-owned business specializing in flat reeds for rapier, projectile and fly shuttle looms, as well as combs for warping, slashing and beaming. Owners Ken and Steve Yarboro have a combined 75-plusyears of reed making knowledge. According to Ken Yarboro, “Only the best raw materials and workmanship goes into every reed providing our customers with the accuracy and durability required for today’s modern weaving looms.” In addition to its WarpMasterPlus, Groz-Beckert offers many accessories for the weaving process — all high-quality and engineered for long, useful lives. Stainless steel Rondofil and Jacquard mono wire heddles are made of a single wire for a perfect surface to handle the even finest warp yarns. The thread eye is glued into the heddle rather than soldered to ensure a smooth finish that is gentle on warp yarns and prevent damage from material fatigue or corrosion. Rondofil and Jacquard heddles may be made to customer specific specifications. The Jacquard heddle also is available with an Antabra mail eye surface finish. This is a Groz-Beckert exclusive finish that increases wear resistance,

resilience and stiffness; and imparts good sliding properties. Groz-Beckert also offers a complete line of reeds including air-jet reeds, flat reeds, and slashing/warping reeds; and pin combs and expansion combs. All its reed and warping products are custom-tailored to customer specifications.

Yarn Feeding Italy-based LGL Electronics S.p.A., represented in the United States by Lang Ligon, specializes in designing and manufacturing electronic yarn feeders for weaving and knitting applications. Among the company’s latest innovations are new braking systems equipped with electronic sensors that enable realtime tension monitoring and reduce stress on the yarn. The Eco Smart yarn feeder/weft accumulator, suitable for use on rapier or projectile machines, can be equipped with either the Attivo or Tens electronic brakes. Attivo decreases the average tension of the yarn during every insertion, while Tens keeps the average yarn tension constant. The Tens load cell is not technology required by every weaver, but it offers the option to set the tension at the feeder for applications requiring such monitoring. The Eco smart is smaller and lighter than previous generation feeders, uses less power, and can handle yarns ranging from 5 to 1,400 denier.

Quality Control And Monitoring The highest-quality yarns and equipment sometime fail. Possibly preventing the failure, or knowing when and where a failure occurred during weaving is necessary to fix problems to avoid downstream processing issues. Switzerland-based Loepfe Brothers Ltd. offers weavers weft-control solutions for all weft insertion systems, as well as yarn break solutions for demanding weaving applications. The WeftMaster SFB weft thread brake controls the weft tension for all

yarn types on rapier and projectile weaving machines. According to the company, an optimized, electronically controlled late braking start by the projectile sensor produces a uniform weft thread tension over the entire width of the fabric. According to Loepfe, when running filament yarns on air-jet weaving machines, up to 90 percent of machine downtime is a result of weft faults caused by irregularities and defects in the yarn such as fibril breaks, filamentation and fluff. In applications where perfect fabric appearance is a must — such as in

plemented by Loepfe’s piezo-electrical knot detectors KW-1R and KWDIGI designed as knotless weaving solutions. Switzerland-based Uster Technologies AG, long synonymous with quality control systems for fibers and yarns, also offers the Q-BAR 2 for on-loom fabric inspection. Uster notes that “the best way to avoid offquality is simply not to make it.” The Q-Bar 2 smart vision system identifies defects, stops the machine and then records and categorizes each defect for tracking. Alarms and stop signals notify the operators who can

Uster Technologies’ Q-BAR 2 for on-loom fabric inspection

ambient lighting, sun and light protection products, precision fabrics, and filtration products — flaw detection is key to avoid defective fabrics and customer complaints. Loepfe offers the Falcon-i yarn defect sensor, which is mounted in front of the weft feeder. Weft yarns are guided through the optical defect sensor’s measuring field using yarn guides before and after the sensor in a virtually contactfree way. The Falcon-i triggers a stop if a defined fault is detected. According to Loepfe, the color and polymer of the yarn have no influence on measurement reliability; and the sensor is insensitive to vibrations making it suitable for even conductive materials. The WeftMaster SFB and Falcon-i air-jet and rapier solutions are com-

react quickly as soon as a defect appears to reduce long running or repeating faults, which in turn reduces material loss and secondquality goods. The Q-Bar 2 creates a defect map for each fabric roll that can be used as a quality tool for analysis, and all data may be viewed online in real time. “Formation monitoring is the answer to market requests,” said Michelle Salg, product manager, Fabric Inspection, Uster. “Weavers demand zero defect standards, increased sustainability by waste reduction and they want to produce the fabric meeting specific quality requirements,” says Michelle Salg, Product Manager Fabric Inspection at Uster. TW

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

NONWOVENS/TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Figure 1: Smart wearables stored in a closet or drawer near — up to a meter away — from a wireless power transmitter will recharge over the air in between wearings.

The RF transmitter, Tx, in the charging system emits radio waves at a specific frequency. The receiving antenna, Rx, and matching network then harvest that RF from the air, while a converter chip converts the RF into usable DC power (see Figure 1).

Elements To Consider When Designing An RF Wireless Power System

The Wireless Charging Closet Printed electronics enable e-textiles and wearables powered by radio frequency wireless power. By Charles Goetz

runner returns home after putting in a solid 5K run. They check their heart rate maximum and peak breathing rate using a smart phone, then remove their fitness tracking shirt before showering. Instead of removing an electronics package from the garment, they can toss it directly into the laundry because those electronics are embedded directly into the e-textile, making the garment machine washable. At the end of the wash cycle, the shirt hangs to dry in the closet where it also wirelessly recharges to be ready for the next run. This may sound like an advertisement from the future, but implementing a wireless charging system into e-textiles and other wearables is possible today.

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Wireless Charging At A Glance A variety of wireless charging technologies are available, including magnetic resonance, ultrasound, radio frequency (RF) and Qi — inductive coupling. The longestrange option, and also the topic of this article, is RF. This technology sends a trickle charge over the air and allows a “set it and forget it” convenience where users can simply place or hang an e-textile near the transmitter without having to worry about exact alignment for charging. An RF wireless power system consists of two sides: • A transmitter, Tx, placed near the e-textile such as in a closet or drawer; and • A receiver, Rx, embedded into the e-textile.

Transmit—Tx: Frequency, power level, and antenna gain are the three key elements for an RF power transmitter. First, the country where the transmitter will operate shapes its design — local frequency band allocations and power output limits dictate how much power the device can transmit and at what frequencies. For example, in the United States, the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) governs all radio equipment. Part 15 of the FCC’s rules limits power fed to the Tx antenna to a total of 30 decibel-milliwatts (dBm), or 1 Watt, and limits antenna gain to 6 decibels relative to isotropic (dBi), for a maximum of 36 dBm, or 4 Watts, of effective isotropic radiated power (EIRP). Different combinations of output power and antenna gain are allowed, but the limit of 4W EIRP remains. This FCC rule applies to all unlicensed communication devices operating across three frequency bands — 902-928 megahertz (MHz), 2.402.483 gigahertz (GHz), and 5.7255.875 GHz. Transmitters used in the United States must comply with these limits. Each country has its own rules and restrictions for frequency allocations, power output limits, and emission requirements for radio transmitting devices. Receive—Rx: Luckily, the receiver side of the wireless power network is simpler to design because wireless power receivers generally require no local communications cer-

tifications. There are three main variables to consider — frequency, antenna gain, and expected received input power range related to the distance from the transmitter. Let’s start with frequency. Designers can calculate the level of received RF power over a given distance in the far field using Friis equation. This equation shows that lower radio frequencies tend to deliver power more efficiently than higher frequencies under the same circumstances, for example, the same Tx power, Tx antenna gain and Rx antenna gain (see Figure 2). The chosen frequency impacts the charging distance in an RF wireless power network (WPN). At lower frequencies, like those in common RFID industrial, scientific and medical (ISM) bands, receivers can generally operate further away from the transmitter and tend to offer superior charging time. On the other hand, WPNs operating at higher frequencies, such as 2.45 GHz, can accommodate smaller antennas on both the Tx and Rx ends, appealing to both engineers and chief technology officers in today’s quest to achieve increasingly-smaller devices. Next, how much power does the receiver need? The Friis equation demonstrates that the received power drops off as one over distance squared. This means that powerhungry wearables will need to charge close to a Tx source, while lower power devices such as sensors can charge at much greater distances. Lastly, let’s discuss antenna gain. Higher gain antennas capture more RF power but inherently become more directional. Lower gain antennas are omni-directional, meaning they can receive RF power from almost all directions. In e-textiles like a fitness shirt, it is possible to implement multiple receiving antennas and get the best of both worlds — multiple antennas capture more RF power like highgain antennas, but also can have omni-directional patterns like lowgain antennas.

Figure 2

A WPN, frequency, antenna gain, and input power are all intertwined. Designers cannot adjust one without affecting another, so should consider all equally when designing both the wireless power delivery network and one or more receive devices.

Game Changing Printed Electronics Luckily, a shirt or pair of shorts provides a large footprint for printing electronics, unlike small earbuds, fitness trackers, or hearing aids that take up less physical space. The entire garment can serve as an electronic canvas for implementing circuitry, screens, buttons, and antenna(s). (See figure 3). For recharging, consumers will simply place a wireless power transmitter in the closet or drawer near where they store or hang their smart wearables. Close-range charging and a large physical footprint make wireless charging a natural solution for smart garments.

Fast Charging, Large Footprint Rigid or rigid-flex electronic circuit boards are obviously a hindrance in smart garments. Luckily, when print-

ing electronics onto e-textiles, the garment itself becomes the circuit board and it can still bend and flex. Circuitry can be directly printed onto garments using conductive materials like Pittsburgh-based Liquid X ® ’s particle-free metallic inks, or applied via thermal transfer using technology from companies such as Englandbased Conductive Transfers Ltd. These printed electronics breakthroughs — conventionally printable conductive inks and thermal trace transfer — have opened the gates for consumer smart garments. When creating a wirelessly rechargeable smart garment using RF wireless power, the entire garment may be used as a canvas. Multiple power-receiving antennas may be printed on the garment, which creates a large area to capture the RF energy sent over the air from the transmitter and will increase the garment’s overall charging speed. Then, other small electronic components can be mounted onto the printed traces, including the tiny wireless power chip that converts the RF energy into usable DC power; a battery; and any other components that add desired functionality such as sensors, LEDs,

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

Battery Considerations

Figure 3: The entire textile can serve as the electronic circuit board material for mounting or printing electronic circuitry, screens, chips, antenna(s) and more. Using printed electronics, the garment can still bend and flex. In this prototype, the printed circuitry and mounted components were applied to the inside of a smart athletic shirt.

With the functionality of today’s smart garments sometimes stifled by battery size and also the need to detach the battery for recharging and washing, a low-effort wireless recharging system could instead deliver advanced e-textiles to the everyday user. Today’s smart garment manufacturers often use large batteries that can last multiple sessions without recharging, because disconnecting a battery pack before washing the garment and plugging it in to recharge, can feel cumbersome to an ordinary user. If a user no longer has to think about the recharging process and can instead follow a typical routine of washing and hanging the garment, then smaller, single-wear batteries become viable. Implementing a loweffort wireless charging system can enable designers to deploy singlewear batteries. The entire capacity of the maximum tolerable battery size could then be used for the duration of a single session, so manufacturers can either enhance the garment to perform additional functions; or, physically shrink battery size to create a more lightweight, less bulky end product.

The Future Of The Wireless Charging Closet

Figure 4: Conventionally printable conductive inks and thermal trace transfer breakthroughs have opened the gates for consumer smart garments by eliminating the rigidity of traditional electronics packages so that the material can flex and bend without harming the embedded electronics.

alarms, GPS tracking, or even bistable displays. Finally, to make the garment washable, an encapsulant can provide a high-strength waterproof bond to seal in all of the electronic components.

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The ability to embed electronics into smart garments that are flexible, durable and washable, and eliminate traditional rigid and fragile electronics packages, is a game changer (see Figure 4).

Advanced e-textiles have been deployed in military and industrial settings, and are expanding into the consumer market as well. But a dead battery pack renders e-textiles useless. Integrating RF wireless power networks to replace battery packs and ensure frictionless, easy-to-use recharging is one path to avoid such failures. Wired charging will only last as far as the cord can reach, and the tech community is quickly approaching that juncture. TW Editor’s Note: Charles Goetz is CEO of Pittsburgh-based Powercast Corp. The company specializes in RF over-the-air wireless power solutions for customers using its know-how, intellectual property and patents surrounding RF-based wireless power.

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COMPOSITES

DORNIER’s TRITOS® 3D Weaving Machine can create fully integrated structures such as this 2-inch-thick billet.

Reintroducing DORNIER’s Composite Systems® Suite DORNIER is in the midst of re-introducing its Composite Systems® family of technologies focused on the ever-advancing needs of a dynamic composites industry.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor composite, as discussed in previous issues of Textile World

(see “Focus on Performance” TW , May/June 2015), is commonly defined as “the result of two or more distinct components, usually one being fibrous in nature, that when combined behave as one.” Woven 2D and 3D fabrics made from fiberglass, carbon, aramids, or some more exotic combination of fibers generally make up the fibrous component in a large percentage of these composite applications. Founded in 1950, Germany-based Lindauer DORNIER GmbH is a wellrespected manufacturer of weaving and advanced technologies for textiles and other industries. Early on, the company recognized and continues to pursue the opportunities created by the still evolving composites sector with its rather diverse applications and often unique needs specific to fabric forming technologies. “Our aim is to supply machines and plants for the flexible and economical production of high-quality semi-finished composite products

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

where our skills in textile and plastics technology complement each other perfectly,” said Josef Klingele, head of Dornier’s Composite Systems ® Product Line. “The result of this cross-departmental cooperation is Dornier Composite Systems.” In 2014, Dornier first introduced its Composite Systems suite of products, which was comprised of production technologies for composite intermediates. The suite addressed the extremes required of wide-ranging composite applications, as well as offering a more traditional weaving machine specifically for roving inputs to service the bulk of fibrous reinforcement needs. Given the composite industry’s ongoing evolution, technological advances and broadening spectrum of products, Dornier has continued to make improvements and additions to its system and now is effectively re-introducing the suite to existing and perspective customers. Under the Composite Systems umbrella, Dornier now offers the fully impregnated or dry tapes and tape weaving production system

PROTOS® TP and TW — Polymer and Roving to Sheet. The system encompasses a spread tow fiber tape manufacturing line for thin unidirectional fibrous tapes up to a maximum width of 23.65-inches, or 600-millimeters (mm)-wide. The PROTOS line also includes an improved tape weaving machine to address one end of the composite spectrum. At the other end of this spectrum is the fully integrated 3D fabric production weaving system TRITOS ® PP — Textile Roving into Threedimensionally Oriented Structure — which is capable of producing complex fully integrated woven structures of up to 4 inches — or 100 mm — and possibly greater, in thickness. Then, somewhere in between is the P2 Roving Weaving Machine, designed specifically for high-quality reinforcing 2D fabrics (see “3D Textiles: The Difference is Depth” TW , July/August 2016). These 2D fabrics are primarily made using carbon, glass, ceramic and/or aramid technical rovings, and are used in the broader spectrum of composite fabric applications. “We purposefully tried to exclude the word ‘textile’ and even ‘fabric’ from any of the naming and promotional materials associated with either the TRITOS or PROTOS technologies because potential customers could be misled by the terminology” stated Peter D. Dornier, chairman of the board for Lindauer Dornier GmbH. “Products produced using this equipment are intended primarily for technical, structural and composite applications, not those of the traditional textile markets.”

PROTOS® TP and TW Dornier’s product offerings have included film stretching lines for the packaging industry since the mid1960s, and spread tow unidirectional fibrous tape (tape) formation was a natural extension of this technology.

Spread unidirectional tapes represent a relatively new technology that continues to gain acceptance in composite applications where lightweight, thin, flat, smooth, and consistent unidirectional layers exhibiting a high fiber volume — the ratio of fibrous material weight to that of the composite — are advantageous. Generally, fiber volume fractions for composites fall in the 45- to 60-percent range depending on the combination of fibrous materials, matrix used and product application. Higher fiber volumes in excess of 60 percent are found to contribute to higher strength and stiffness properties in composite products; attributes largely desired in numerous applications where specific high-performance levels are required. PROTOS TP, Dornier’s spread tow fibrous tape production line, is a stand-alone system engineered to effectively take large bundles of fibers or tows — 12K, 24K or 48K carbon for example — and effectively spread the individual fibers out across the width to a thickness of just a few fiber diameters while remaining unidirectional. The newly spread tow tape formation is then secured through an in-line application of a matrix material, or it can be completely impregnated by using a thermoplastic resin system or other binder. Thermoplastic resin systems continue to gain in favor for numerous composite applications because of their faster processing times, improved scalability, room temperature storage and inherent ability to be reflowed or remolded. Thermoplastic resin systems also present a greater potential for a high degree of recyclability because of their chemical composition when compared to existing thermoset resin systems. Dornier’s tape line is designed to be modular, improving its functionality and flexibility in processing and materials used capabilities. Fiber tows of carbon, glass, aramids, and other polymers can be used alone or potentially in combinations along with matrix systems to produce the tapes.

Separated split tapes ready to be wound on spools.

“A variety of thermoplastic polymers as well as fiber types can be processed allowing customers the opportunity to generate customized tapes specific to the application’s needs,” Klingele noted. “Also, because we use melt impregnation technology, granulate material can be used. There is no need for small particle suspensions, organic solvents or films.” The resultant tapes are then slit or cut to their pre-determined width and wound onto flanged bobbins for subsequent processing. Given the advancements in technology, today’s spread tow tapes can theoretically be as thin as one fiber diameter in thickness, but realistically will be several fiber diameters thick or more. The thinness and flexibility of these tapes present the composites engineer with new options and alternatives when considering various fiber placement methodologies and tape woven fabric configurations. PROTOS TW, Dornier’s newly improved tape weaving machine sold separately from the fibrous tape production line, is designed to produce woven fabrics from either binderfixed or fully impregnated tapes. It is also capable of using ribbon materials, for example slit films, or other tape like configurations of up to 1 inch, or 25 mm, wide in both warp and weft directions as well, separately or in some combination. “The latest generation features high speed production of approximately 100 rpm for tape weaving and

a fabric width of up to 112 inches or 2,870 mm,” Klingele stated. “The machine layout is drastically reduced and incorporates an integrated thermal fixation system with programmable fixation patterning to improve subsequent handling of the tape fabrics. PROTOS TW features an electronic dobby system to freely program weave patterns, coupled with rotating weft scissors to process a wide variety of tapes and rovings, two color zero twist feeder with uninterrupted weaving at color change and a tape creel for easy set-up.” “Tape weaving effectively combines the advantages of unidirectional fibrous structures and fabric configurations,” Klingele continued. “This produces a woven fabric, or ‘textile structure’ if you prefer, with more consistent areal weights [weight of fiber per unit area (width x length) of tape or fabric] throughout, fewer interstices and virtually no crimp while exhibiting a much lower cross-sectional profile.” Not only does reduced fiber crimping help to create a thinner and flatter fabric profile, but because the fibers are now straight and in plane, there is an immediate response delivered to any forces applied to the composite part because the fibers do not have to first overcome crimp in order to respond to the stresses and strains being presented. When molded into a composite part, the results demonstrate increased structural performance and reduced resin

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

A view of the PROTOS® tape weaving machine’s take-up with pattern changes showing white tapes in the warp and black tapes in the weft direction demonstrating the machine’s capabilities. A hockey stick blade manufactured from tape woven fabric produced using the PROTOS® TP and TW technologies.

pooling areas leading to a higher fiber volume fraction — ratio of fiber to resin — in the composite structure when compared to fabrics woven using traditional yarn or roving inputs. Of note, since resin systems make up a large portion of the composite’s cost, any reduction of resin pooling and overall resin usage can lead to notable cost savings. In addition, the flatter fabric profile and reduction in resin pooling areas lead to greatly improved Class A surface finish characteristics, which are highly desirable in many highperformance composite end-uses. Applications for spread tow and tape weaving technologies continue to grow as the technology improves and fiber reinforced composites in general gain increased acceptance in the various markets. Advantages derived from the PROTOS technologies include in the thin and flat fabric layers; reduced or limited interstices; and consistent, repeatable unidirectional performance from non-crimping textile structures. Composite products made using this technology may provide reduced weight and increased structural performance, improved surface finishes, reduced resin pooling and noticeably higher fiber volumes. Given that many high-performance fibers are fragile and can break during processing, an additional reduction in production costs can be realized with PROTOS

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

because of the reduced filamentation or broken fibers typically experienced during weaving and subsequent handling of traditional woven fabrics. In these tape fabrics, all filaments are fully encapsulated within the matrix material and are thus, protected. With the thermoplastic resin system already incorporated into the fibrous tapes, resin application is significantly reduced during infusion and molding times are improved — all beneficial in composite applications. Interest in spread tow technologies is driven by the significant weight reduction or weight savings, and improved structural properties realized by the comparatively thin, flat, and high fiber volume characteristics of these textile structures compared to other materials. Numerous applications for spread tow and fabrics made from spread tow are either already in production or under investigation. At a minimum, current applications comprise of automotive, marine, and racing/performance parts, battery separators, wind turbine blade concepts, advanced computer components, fire blocking layers, as well as numerous aerospace activities including drones and advanced satellite dish configurations.

TRITOS® PP Dornier’s TRITOS PP 3D weaving system is focused squarely on the opposite end of the composite spectrum where depth and fully inte-

grated complex 3D woven structures are preferred. Three-dimensional weaving machines, typically paired with one or more jacquard heads, provide composite designers and engineers with a viable methodology for manufacturing woven billets and near net shape preforms that are stable and uniform. The technology incorporates traditional or modified warp- and weft-insertion systems that, along with the jacquard’s patterning capabilities, create precise fiber placement and strand paths through the thickness resulting in a cohesive textile structure. In the past, these 3D weaving machines have either been created from highly modified traditional 2D weaving machines or designed and created as purpose-built one-offs. The TRITOS PP is one of the first 3D weaving machines to be offered by an established textile machine manufacturer. It is simple, yet complex, in its ability to weave 3D textile structures. Dornier takes the basic rapier weaving process and fortifies it with flexible shed geometry and a rigid rapier motion providing low filamentation with limited guiding elements. Weft or filling waste is greatly reduced using Dornier’s Weft Saver system, which improves production economics. Digital weave pattern programming coupled with the jacquard’s capabilities, creates the complex shed formations required for these intricate woven structures. For thicker fabric structures, Dornier also offers a horizontal take-up system as well as an integrated fabric guide. Additional add-ons and machine customization specific to width and unique applications also available.

Applications for 3D woven structures remain largely focused on areas where consistent, reliable, and repeatable component performance is critical to the product’s intended use. Situations where weight reduction, typically when compared to the incumbent products, likely produced from metals, and the ability to dictate orientated fiber placement to mitigate weak or high stress areas, enhance flexibility and/or provide foundational support are beneficial and potential delamination of the composite structure is a high concern. A growing concern associated with crack propagation in metal components also gives composite structures an advantage over comparable metal components. To date, crack propagation has not been identified as a concern in composite parts because of the integrated fibrous reinforcement structure and nature of the woven fabric yarn systems to bunch up as directional force is being applied. Probably the most visible current application for 3D fabrics is the aerodynamically efficient 3D woven fan blade configurations incorporated into the LEAP jet engine systems produced by Cincinnati-based CFM International. These composite blades, complex 3D woven and shaped structures with fully integrated fiber orientations molded to shape, have demonstrated increased fuel efficiency, reduced carbon dioxide emissions, lower operating costs and improved reliability in service. Other applications include heavy artillery ballistic panels and complex structures where the desired fiber architecture is not easily attainable through other means, such as through the thickness reinforcement in specific locations. However, do keep in mind that 3D weaving opportunities are not necessarily always limited to composite applications. Products may also include complex fabric systems where integrated layers of different components — maybe even metal strands, monofilaments, filler strands or sacrificial inclusions — could be introduced to create com-

plex filtration systems, biomedical surgical implants, spacer structures, and other innovations yet to be discovered.

P2 Roving Weaving Machine Dornier’s P2 roving weaving machine is a natural extension of Dornier’s proven rapier weaving technologies and has become the workhorse of fabric production for composite applications. Available in several production widths, the P2 is capable of weaving from warp inputs fed by beams or creels or in some combination, and can be adapted to effectively handle heavy tows of glass, carbon, aramids, or other high-performance fibers as necessary. Hybrid and multi-material structures may also be accommodated as the application requires. Low twist filling thread guides and weft waste saving devices have been incorporated into the machine to aid in controlling costs and enhancing quality and reliability.

“We can test new process variants, build mock-ups, perform pre-production evaluations and commission customer specific activities,” Klingele said. “This center allows us to advise customers on selecting the correct tools suited to their needs while also being able to demonstrate the turning of their ideas into real products.” Given Dornier’s years of experience in developing and producing technical fabrics on its equipment, the company is easily able to provide consulting services to customers on developing applications, proof of concept samples, exclusive equipment modifications, and bespoke manufacturing technologies specific to unique applications. It also offers several iterations of comprehensive training programs and workshops to aid customers in the implementation and ongoing support of these new systems. For Dornier, a company that introduced its first rapier weaving machine in 1967 and its first air-jet

A cross-sectional photo of a 3D woven “T” segment displayed inverted. The integration of the warp and weft rovings throughout is highlighted by this cross-sectional view.

Technology And Training In an effort to compliment these expanding technical capabilities and assist those unfamiliar with them, Dornier established a Composite Systems Technology Center at its facility near Lindau, Germany. The center is fully equipped with the technologies mentioned as well as the technical services and support to operate them. The center is available for existing and potential customers to trial new designs and concepts, or simply to witness these unique technologies in action.

weaving machine in 1989, exploring the extremes of weaving technologies is simply a continuation of its engineering legacy and business philosophy. The Composite Systems suite is a natural extension of Dornier’s heritage and forwardthinking approach. As Klingele summarized, “We intend to continue advancing our technical offerings in order to provide equipment and technical support to the American and global composites industry with our offerings.” The potential is certainly there. TW

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

SPINNING

Trützschler’s intelligent TC 19i card

Sustainable And Intelligent Carding Trützschler’s was TC 19i engineered for energy-efficient carding TW Special Report

lobal energy consumption reached a record high in 2019, following a 40-year trend for rapidly increasing energy demand that was only halted by the coronavirus pandemic.1 It’s estimated that more than 80 percent of this energy is still generated from fossil fuels that produce carbon dioxide emissions and contribute to climate change.2 Renewable energy offers a solution to this problem, but saving energy whenever possible is an even more effective approach. That’s why Germany-based Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG has developed the intelligent card TC 19i, which sets a new benchmark for energy-efficient carding, according to the company. The intelligent Trützschler card TC 19i features the unique T-GO gap optimizer, which continuously and automatically monitors and adjusts the carding gap to an ideal position

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

during production. As of now, more than 2,000 intelligent cards sold worldwide prove quality and production leaps in the double-digit percentage range daily, thereby reducing energy demand per kilogram produced. 3 Innovative drive and air technology further reduce energy consumption of the TC 19i. In this way, the TC 19i saves energy to help protect the planet — and also boosts profitability for yarn production. The most energy-intensive elements in a carding machine are the drive, the dust suction process and the compressed air system. Permanent suction is needed to remove dust and cotton waste in key places. In contrast to Trützschler cards, many cards on the market also use compressed air for suction hoods in the pre-carding and post-carding areas, for example. Smart optimization of these areas has made the

intelligent card TC 19i a benchmark for energy efficiency in carding because it uses less electricity, lower suction pressure and less compressed air than other machines, while providing the highest production rates currently available on the market. In a head-to-head comparison between the TC 19i and a high-performance card from a competitor, the TC 19i consumed at least 10-percent less energy per kilogram of material produced when manufacturing rotor yarn from a cotton and cotton waste mix. The compared energy values included electric power consumption and energy required for suction and compressed air and were measured in both cards at the same production of 180 kilograms per hour (kg/h). A 10percent reduction in energy per kilogram of sliver produced, as proven here by TC 19i, can have a significant impact on a spinning mill’s profitability; annual savings worth a five-digit sum are frequently possible, depending on factors such as the output of the mill. The customer trial also showed TC 19i’s excellent reliability at the customer’s usual production rate of 180 kg/h, and even demonstrated stable performance at 300 kg/h in the same application. Because the TC 19i with T-GO gap optimizer realizes maximum production rates at no compromise in quality, manufacturers can reduce their energy demand and investment costs drastically: Less machines are needed to achieve the desired output, and energy consumption per production is reduced.

Energy-Efficient Air Technology Next to increased productivity, air technology plays a pivotal role in the energy balance of the TC 19i. Christian Freitag, head of Air Technology at Trützschler, explains how he optimized the TC 19i in this area “First, we reduced the need for compressed air wherever possible,” he said. “And second, we reduced suction pressure and air requirements for suction. All

of our air collectors, for example, are carefully developed to eliminate potential resistance and facilitate an ideal flow.” This improvement was made possible by a long and sometimes challenging innovation process involving mathematical models of air flows, as well as flow simulations and prototypes. By combining the final flowoptimized parts in the TC 19i, Trützschler’s experts have developed a card that operates with suction pressure of just -740 Pascals and with an air requirement of only 4,200 cubic meters per hour. This translates into 40-percent less energy demand for air technology compared to the latest high-performance competitor model. “These achievements are fantastic — but we didn’t stop there,” said Ralf Helbig, R&D engineer for Air Technology at Trützschler. “We have also made it possible to further reduce energy demand in polyester applications, which are increasingly important to our customers. In a polyester configuration, the TC 19i can reduce the necessary pressure for waste suction by a further 14 percent because of improvements to elements in the pre-carding and post-carding areas, and the removal of suction hoods. The suction is still just as reliable — but it needs much less energy.”

Ralf Helbig, R&D engineer for Air Technology (left,) and Christian Freitag, head of Air Technology at Trützschler.

Air Energy Demand Of Trützschler Cards Compared To Competitor’s Card

Good For The Environment, And Balance Sheet With its unique gap optimizer TGO, its state-of-the-art drives and optimized air technology, the intelligent card TC 19i is leading the market for energy-efficient carding. No other card can match its stable performance at such high levels of productivity, or its consistent quality and energy efficiency. As a result, the TC 19i makes a valuable contribution to global sustainability — and makes mills even more profitable too. TW References: 1 https://www.statista.com/statistics/265598/consumption-of-primary-energy-worldwide/. 2 https://ourworldindata.org/energy-mix. 3 Increased production leads to higher power consumption per hour. The increase in output outweighs this factor so that power consumption per kilogram of card sliver produced is lower.

Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021

People Sean Tindale has joined Sweden-based Polygiene® as chief marketing officer. He is based at the Sweden headquarters and is responsible for marketing and brand activities within the Polygiene Group including the Polygiene and Biomaster brands.

The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), England, has named Jason Kent CEO of the BTMA Group, which includes subsidiaries nw texnet and The Textile Recorder (Machinery & Accessories) Exhibitions Ltd.

FRX Polymers Inc., Chelmsford, Mass., has named Dr. Mike Goode chief Goode commercial officer. Goode is responsible for sales, marketing, application development and research activities. He reports to CEO Marc-André Lebel.

Amie Borges has joined Cone Denim®, Greensboro, N.C., as senior vice president, Commercial Strategy. She will lead the global sales team, working closely with the product, operations and manufacturing teams.

Sarah Bianchi was recently confirmed by the Senate as Deputy United States Trade Representative. Bianchi will work closely with the apparel and footwear industry covering Asia, Africa, Investment, Services, Textiles and Industrial Competitiveness. Kontoor Brands Inc., Greensboro, N.C., has appointed Tammy Heller chief human resources officer. She is responsible for developing and driving the organization’s people strategy. The company also named Mame Annan-Brown executive vice president of global communications and public affairs.

Jacksonville, Fla.-based Crowley Maritime Corp. has named Massimo Messina vice president of mergers and acquisitions. Hudson, N.C.-based Sattler® Outdura®, a division of the Sattler Group, has Caldwell added Chris Caldwell as a product manager for Outdura casual furniture and Sattler shade fabrics. He reports directly to Sattler Outdura USA CEO Uli Tombuelt. Velcro Companies, Manchester, N.H., appointed Gabriella Parisse CEO, effective November 1, 2021. She replaces current CEO Jeff Malcolm who is retiring. Malcolm will remain on the company’s board.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

Renfro Brands, Mount Airy, N.C., has promoted Kadian Langlais to Langlais chief marketing officer. She previously served as vice president, DTC & Digital. Paul M. Nowak was named sales manager at Houston-based Orion Engineered Carbons S.A. He is responsible for leading OEC Specialty Carbon Black sales in the northeast, developing and implementing regional sales strategies and leading select global key accounts. The company also expanded the role of Senior Technical Marketing Manager Carlos Hernandez to include responsibility for Orion’s technical service applications laboratory in New Jersey. Swedenbased Coloreel has appointed Torbjörn Bäck CEO. He succeeds Bucher Mattias Nordin who is transitioning to a new role as senior vice president, Business Development, Coloreel. Portland, Ore.-based Columbia Sportswear Co. recently promoted Troy Sicotte to president of its Mountain Hardwear

brand. In other company news, Monica Mirro was named president of the prAna brand. Switzerland-based Archroma has named Thomas Bucher CFO. He replaced Roland Waibel who retired. Carhartt, Dearborn, Mich., has promoted Danilo Amoretty to senior vice president of Global Product Supply and Operations. Dustin Bowersox has joined Grand Rapids, Mich.-based X-Rite Inc. and Pantone LLC as Textile & Apparel business development manager. Scott Vifquain has joined Tailored Brands, Fremont, Calif., as executive vice president and chief technology officer. He is in charge of accelerating the company’s technology strategy. At its recent annual meeting of stockholders, High Point, N.C.-based Culp Inc. elected John A. Baugh, Kimberly B. Gatling and Jonathan L. Kelly as members of its board of directors. David Andreas was promoted from president and COO to CEO of Green Theme Technologies Inc., Albuquerque, N.M. He succeeds Dr. Gary Selwyn. TW

Calendar NOVEMBER 2021

by the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), The Westin Kierland, Scottsdale, Ariz. Visit hygienix.com.

1-4: IFAI Expo 2021, organized by the Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI), Music City Center, Nashville, Tenn. Visit ifaiexpo.com 3-4: E-Textiles 2021: 3rd International Conference on the Challenges, Opportunities, Innovations and Applications in Electronic Textiles, organized by the E-Textiles Network, Pendulum Hotel, Manchester, England; also available virtually. Visit e-textilesconference.com.

15-19: The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Textile Discovery Summit 2021 (formerly the International Conference and Exhibition), Sheraton Imperial, Durham, N.C. Visit aatcc.org/summit. 17-18: Functional Fabric Fair, organized by Reed Exhibitions, Oregon Convention Center, Portland, Ore. Visit functionalfabricfair.com/Portland/en-us.html.

DECEMBER 2021 4-5: GeoNashville, organized by IFAI and the Geosynthetic Materials Association, Music City Center, Nashville. Visit geosyntheticsconference.com. 4-5: Synthetic Yarn & Fabric Association (SYFA) 2021 Fall Conference, Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C. Visit thesyfa.org. 15-18: 15-18: Hygienix™ | The Premier Event for Absorbent Hygiene & Personal Care Markets, organized

7-10: Fabric Property Development And Characterization Course, organized by INDA and The Nonwovens Institute (NWI) at NC State University, Raleigh, N.C. Visit inda.org/training.

JANUARY 2022 13-15: Marine Fabricators Conference 2022, organized by IFAI, Wild Dunes Resort, Isle of Palms, S.C. Visit ifai.com/event/marine-fabricators-conference-2022.

CLASSIFIEDS

Place Your Classified Ad Today! Call Julie Davis at (678) 522-0404 or e-mail jdavis@textileworld.com

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Textile World SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020

Asahi Kasei’s Bemliese™ is a continuous filament nonwoven made using 100-percent cotton linter.

Quality Fabric Of The

Month By Rachael S. Davis Executive Editor

CONTACTS:

For more information about Bemliese™, contact info@ ak-advance.com; asahi-kasei.co.jp/ bemliese/en/ Go online to TextileWorld.com for archived Quality Fabric articles.

Ultra-Pure, Lily-Soft

Nonwoven

Asahi Kasei’s Bemliese™ brings a sustainable nonwoven option to the United States.

emliese™ — “Bem” from the original cupro rayon fiber named Bemberg, “li” inspired by the smoothness of a lily flower, and “se” from the Japanese word for gauze — is a continuous filament cellulosic nonwoven fabric recently launched in the United States by Japan-based Asahi Kasei. The nonwoven features 100-percent cotton linter — the tiny hair-like fibers found on cotton seeds that are typically wasted — which is turned into a highly-pure, high-quality, continuous filament spunbond nonwoven using a proprietary production process. According to Chad Provonsha, director of sales and marketing for Asahi Kasei Advance America Inc., there are two things that make Bemliese stand out in the crowd. The first is its continuous filament spunbond nature. “This means no staple fibers are used, attributing remarkable levels of purity,” Provonsha said. The second is the 100-percent cotton linter raw material input. “This means no trees are sacrificed for wood pulp and no plastics are used,” Provonsha added. “Asahi Kasei is creating one of the most premium, fully biodegradable fabrics from a raw material that would otherwise be wasted.” The fabric has been certified by TÜV Austria Belgium NV for industrial compost, home compost, soil biodegradability and marine biodegradability. In addition, Provonsha reports approximately 40 percent of the energy powering Bemliese factories comes from biomass or hydroelectricity and the facilities are 99.8-percent emissions-free.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 TextileWorld.com

According to the company, the dry Bemliese nonwoven is ideal for cleaning equipment in contamination-free environments because it leaves virtually no lint, scratches or chemicals on the surfaces it touches. The dry product also exhibits a higher rate of absorbency compared to cotton gauze, rayon/polyester blends or cotton nonwovens. When wet, Bemliese is soft, drapes well and exhibits little to no abrasion. These qualities, plus its moisture absorption ability, make it suitable for hygienic or sterile medical applications. In Asia, the nonwoven also has proven popular for sustainable cosmetic facial masks. The product’s ability to stick to every contour of the face and stay in place allows for even application of beauty formulas. Purity is a key concept for Bemliese and the company prefers to supply the nonwoven only in white to preserve this purity. However, color may be imparted to the nonwoven depending on the end-use application. Bemliese is available in weights ranging from 13.5 grams per square meter (gsm) to 135 gsm, and is sold as roll goods that can be customized in width and length. “In the past, cotton linter had been used to create a woven material that resembles silk, and Asahi Kasei was interested in a way to bring these qualities to the nonwoven industry,” Provonsha said. “Bemliese has evolved well beyond its initial purpose as a medical gauze. We are expecting a new chapter of creative uses for the material to unfold in North America.” TW

TODAY! IFAIexpo.com/Register

Celebrating 100 Years of

TEXTILE INNOVATION IFAI Expo is the leading show for the industrial textiles and specialty fabrics industries and is back in-person to celebrate 100 years! It is the perfect place to reconnect and recharge with the industry. WHAT TO EXPECT Source new products from over 250 exhibitors. Network face-to-face with industry experts. Discover industry trends, developments and innovations. Listen to world-class education.

TARGETED ADVANCED TEXTILES EDUCATION Advanced Textiles (AT) Conference* is back providing high level advanced textiles education and networking. This afternoon of tailored education takes place the day before the show floor opens, Nov. 1, 2021. * AT Conference requires an All Access Registration to attend.

Nov. 2–4, 2021 | Nashville, TN USA

Education: Nov. 1–4 | Music City Center