Textile World May/June 2023

Features

8 2023 Furniture Manufacturing Expo Preview

Professionals in the home furnishings industry have the opportunity to learn and network at the upcoming expo.

12 Success In Atlanta For Collocated Shows

Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas offered a variety of programs and a comprehensive exhibit floor.

15 A Legitimate Glimpse Into The Future Of Composites

The recent JEC World show in Paris offered participants a view of the industry’s global direction.

18 Synthetic Yarn &Fabric Association (SYFA): Work And Play Networking

SYFA’s spring conference was augmented with the an inaugural golf event.

20 Itema America: Expertise In Technical Textiles

Itema America recently held an open house to share information about its expanded technical weaving capabilities.

22 2023 State Of The U.S. Textile Industry

Outgoing National Council of Textile Organizations’ Chairman David Poston outlines key industry facts and economic data.

26 Textile Sustainability Development Snapshots

The textile industry’s interest in sustainability has grown through the years from simple conservation initiatives into a comprehensive approach.

Knitting/Apparel

25 Pailung’s High Pile Fabric Makes For Extra-Durable Winter Wear

Pailung’s latest fabric technology uses knitting instead bonding techniques to produce adhesive-free high pile fabrics.

Fiber World

30 Fiber Developments: A Focus On Sustainability

As consumers and brands demand sustainable products, the fiber industry plays a vital role.

Nonwovens/Technical Textiles

34 Artificial Muscle Fibers Could Serve as Cell Scaffolds

NCState University researchers designed and tested artificial muscle fibers as scaffolds for live cells.

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From Editor The U.S.Textiles Embrace Sustainability Challenge

DDuring a panel discussion titled “Past, Present & Future”held during the Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association’s (SYFA’s) 50th anniversary celebration, U.S.textile industry leaders shed light on the challenges their companies face as well as the significance of sustainability issues on their businesses.

The concept of sustainability has undergone significant transformation over the years. Early initiatives focused on conserving water, gas,and electricity,as well as integrating recycling into the manufacturing process. But today,the concept extends much further. Textile products are now designed with sustainability in mind,taking into account the entire product lifecycle,manufacturing processes,with an eye on carbon neutrality.

One executive on the SYFA panel emphasized the importance of viewing sustainability broadly,stating,“When discussing sustainability,we often concentrate solely on environmental aspects,but it is crucial to consider the sustainability of the entire industry.

‘It’s not just about the raw materials; it's about the people,the energy,and utilizing resources efficiently.When major retailers like Walmart prioritize sustainability,it goes beyond installing solar panels on their store roofs.It permeates every aspect of their operations.They push their suppliers to embrace sustainability in the same way they have demanded cost reductions.”

Virtually all panel members expressed concerns about the sustainability of their workforce.They emphasized the need to attract and recruit young talent,provide education and training,and establish mentorship programs to nurture future industry professionals.

“Replacing employees is not only about finding bodies; it’s about preserving and transferring the knowledge and experience tenured employees bring to the table to

a new generation,”one of the panel executives noted.“We have individuals with decades of service who possess irreplaceable knowledge. How can we capture and transfer that knowledge? How do we find individuals interested in pursuing these jobs today?”

Harnessing the power of digital technology may play a significant role in solving those challenges.The panel expressed a strong need to integrate machine data with non-machine data to make informed real-time decisions on the plant floor,particularly as experienced employees retire and their wealth of machinespecific knowledge is no longer available.

The discussion also touched upon changing business conditions and opportunities that have been influenced by sustainability initiatives. Many participants expressed their belief that the reshoring of textile business from Asia to the western hemisphere makes sense and is a real eventuality.Companies must strive for greater efficiency in terms of energy usage and labor management to make reshoring more appealing.

The conversation ultimately centered on a commitment to investment in sustainable design and innovation,investing in the workforce,minimizing the environmental impact of manufacturing processes,and enhancing overall operational efficiency.

The U.S.textile industry’s leaders recognize the significance of sustainability and its multifaceted impact on their businesses. Those who wholeheartedly commit to this challenge are laying a solid foundation for their company’s successful endurance,ensuring a sustainable and prosperous future.

James M. Borneman jborneman@TextileWorld.com

APublication

EDITOR IN CHIEF James M. Borneman

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Rachael S. Davis

TECHNICAL EDITORS Dr. Lisa Parillo Chapman

Dr. Peter J. Hauser

Dr. Trevor J. Little

Dr. William Oxenham

Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi

Dr. Abdel-Fattah Seyam

Dr. Andre West

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim Kaufmann

Stephen M. Warner

INTERNET CONTENT EDITOR Rachael S. Davis

CIRCULATION MANAGER Julie K. Brown-Davis

ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER Denise Buchalter

ART & PRODUCTION MANAGER Julie K. Brown-Davis

OWNER/PUBLISHER James M. Borneman

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Elevate Textiles Announces Recapitalization Plan

Charlotte,N.C.-based Elevate Textiles Inc.has announced a recapitalization plan that will strengthen its balance sheet and allow the company to reinvest in its global operations.The transaction, which has the support of all key financial stakeholders, will better align Elevate’s financial foundation with its operational strengths. The company will be owned by a consortium of leading global investment firms,who will appoint a new board of directors. The recapitalization will infuse $100 million of new capital into the company, providing it with the resources it needs to continue to grow.No impact on the company’s global operations is expected.

“We are pleased with the outcome of this recapitalization process which provides an improved balance sheet and reduced leverage to align with the strength and capabilities of our business and brands,” said Sim Skinner,president and CEO,Elevate.

“We appreciate the support of our financial stakeholders who have demonstrated their confidence in Elevate,our business plan,and our future. We look forward to directing our focus on delivering the high-quality service and premium products our customers have come to trust and depend on.”

Foss Installs New Andritz Needleloom

Foss Floors,Rome,Ga., recently installed a new velour needleloom from Austria-based Andritz AG. The new 5.3-meter-wide SDV loom — the second Andritz loom installed by Foss in the past four years — will be used to produce flooring products for a variety of applications from recycled plastic.Foss reports it reuses more than 18 million kilograms of plastic,or the equivalent of 2 billion plastics bottles, each year to make its floor covering products.

“We bought our first velour loom from ANDRITZ in 2019 and have been very satisfied with the operation and performance of the machine as well as the quality of products,”said Kevin Nasser,general manager Operations,Foss Floors.“This was,of course, an important consideration in the choice of supplier for our new investment.We relied on ANDRITZ during a supply chain crisis to deliver a necessary machine on time to fulfill the growing demand for our velour product line.”

Darn Tough Expands Waterbury Plant

In response to increasing demand,Sock brand Darn Tough Vermont®, Northfield,Vt.,recently added 22 new state-ofthe-art knitting machines to its 30,000-square-foot Waterbury knitting mill. The company has also

Glen Raven Restructures Business

Glen Raven,Burlington, N.C.,recently announced a restructuring of the company’s operating framework to improve customer support with programs and strategies customized for each market.A new group,Glen Raven Materials Solutions Group,was established with the Glen Raven’s fabric brands — Sunbrella®, GlenGuard®,Dickson®, Sur Last® and others — combined under this umbrella group.

David Swers was named president of the Glen Raven Material Solutions Group.New business units within the group also were created with the following people leading the new units: Furnishings Business Unit

committed to adding more office space.

“Since we opened our second mill (Waterbury),we have increased our capacity significantly,”said Ric Cabot,president & CEO of Darn Tough.“Increased capacity means that we can provide more opportunities for our communities — that makes us proud.”

Avery Dennison Buys Lion Brothers

Avery Dennison,Mentor,Ohio,recently acquired Lion Brothers Inc.,Owings Mills,Md.,a designer and manufacturer of apparel brand identity systems. Lion Brothers is now part of Avery Dennison’s Solutions Group.The deal

— Suzie Roberts,vice president/general manager; Shade & Marine Business Unit — Katherine Carter, vice president/general manager;Protective Business Unit — Patti Bates, vice president/general manager;and a fourth business unit based in France,which will be led by Eugene Deleplanque, president/director general, Europe.

Glen Raven’s distribution business,Trivantage®, is not affected by the restructuring and will continue to operate as a stand-alone division within Glen Raven.

In related news,Glen Raven reports a salaried staff reduction of less than 4 percent as a result of challenging economic conditions.

allowed Avery Dennison to significantly expand its Embelex portfolio,and lets the combined businesses build on their collective industry knowledge and expertise.Lion Brand had revenues of approximately $65 million in 2022 and employs 450 associates.

“With a strong presence in North America’s team sports segment and solutions for lifestyle,fashion and promotional apparel brands,Lion fits seamlessly with Embelex,our full-service,end-to-end portfolio for on-product branding, graphics and trims,”said Michael Barton,senior vice president and general manager Apparel Solutions,Avery Dennison. TW

2023 Furniture Manufacturing Expo:

Must Attend Event For Furniture Manufacturers

Professionals in the home furnishings industry have the opportunity to learn and network at the upcoming expo.

TThe Furniture Manufacturing Expo returns to the Hickory Metro Convention Center in Hickory, N.C., July 19-20, 2023. The event gathers suppliers of solutions — including equipment and machinery, services, technology, warehousing, and financial and logistics services — for manufacturers and importers of home furnishings.

The show is targeted to professionals involved in the manufacturing of home furnishings including designers, engineers, executives,

machine operators, plant managers, procurement officers, purchasing managers, quality control managers, research and development managers, and specifiers.

Furniture Manufacturing Expo is owned by Exposition Development Co. Inc. (ExpoDevCo).

Exhibitor Product Groups

The exhibitors are organized by groups as follows: Computer Software/Information Technology; Contract Manufacturing; Cutting & Sewing Equipment; Distributors;

Fabrics; Fibers; Financial Management; Findings/Trims; Foam; Adhesives/Finishes/Paints; Foam Fabricating Machinery; Furniture Manufacturing Machinery; Hardware & Components; Nonwovens; Packaging; Quilting Machinery; Racking Systems; Research & Development; Services & Logistics; Supplies; Testing Equipment; Testing Laboratories; Upholstery Mechanisms; Wood Process Machinery; Yarns; Assocations; and Publications.

“This year will be the largest Furniture Manufacturing Expo since the show was launched in 2017,” said Lorie Gross, show director. “Attendees will discover a record number of exhibitors including new companies from Brazil, China, Italy, and Turkey, as well as a broader selection of educational programs offering sessions dedicated to upholstery and woodworking.”

New Feature: Micro Plant

The Micro Plant is a new show feature that will debut in July. This interactive exhibit —a concept conceived by sponsor Zund America —guides visitors around the show floor on a marked path to view each

Educational Program

Wednesday, July 19

Woodworking Track

(Sponsored By: Quis Machinery)

“Little Fish In A Big Pond” – Mike Hubbard, director of International Trade. .

“How Much Automation Is Too Much?” – Tanner McElreath, Quis Machinery; and Thomas Tuck, CR Onsrud.

“Don’t Go It Alone” – Jason Dingess, Quis Machinery.

Upholstery Track I

(Sponsored By: National Upholstery Association)

“Sewing With Vinyl From A Custom Upholstery Point Of View”

Jonathan Bennett, Unsprung Upholstery LLC.

“Better Environmental Choices In Materials” –Karsten Siewert, Enkev USA. . .

Upholstery Track II

(Sponsored By: National Upholstery Association)

Upholstery Technology – Lewis Mabon, International Society of Furniture Designers.

Continuing Upholstery Training – Marta Powers, MartaPOW LLC; Susan Woodcock, Custom Workroom Technical Center; Rick J. Shew, Caldwell Community College and Technical Institute; and Steve Castelloe, Guilford Technical Community College.

“It’s

Micro Plant Debuts At 2023 Furniture Manufacturing Expo

The Micro Plant is a brand-new feature at the 2023 Furniture Manufacturing Expo. Exhibiting sponsors and supporters will come together to illustrate each step in the manufacturing process for an upholstered chair. Show attendees will be guided around the show floor to walk through the eightstep process that culminates in the assembly of a completed chair.

Exhibiting sponsors include BEA Fasteners, Crest Leather, Fil-Tec, Henderson Sewing Machine Co., Hickory Springs, National Upholstery Association, Quis Machinery, Domenick’s Furniture Manufacturer and Zund America; and exhibiting supporters are Lee’s Decorative Showcase/DADS Nails, and Leggett & Platt.

On the last day of the show, two chairs produced during the expo will be auctioned with proceeds going to a local organization dedicated to the furniture manufacturing industry.

“Going to tradeshows is often an experience that gives you a view of so many trees, but very little forest,” said Bill Richards, sales director at Zund America. “The Micro Plant is based on a more holistic approach. We are excited at this opportunity to work with our fellow exhibitors to show how all the different components — including Zund digital cutting solutions — fit together in the process of state-of-the-art furniture manufacturing.”

step in the process of constructing a chair (see sidebar).

“Zund reached out to us over a year ago with the Micro Plant idea,” Gross said. “They wanted to create a step-by-step journey around the show floor that would let attendees experience each phase of constructing a chair and give them the opportunity to see, touch, and ask questions along the way. This is an excellent add on value feature for our attendees.”

Textile World recently had the opportunity to ask Richards a few questions about the Micro Plant.

TW : What was the idea behind the Micro Plant?

Richards: The idea behind the Micro Plant is to give attendees to the Furniture Manufacturing Expo insight to the steps involved in the manufacturing process of a quality piece of furniture. The insight will come from an interactive, guided tour throughout the show to the different booths of the fellow sponsors of the Micro Plant to share a detail of their piece of the journey of the furniture from start to completion.

TW : How were the companies chosen to participate?

Richards: The companies chosen to participate in the Micro Plant all play a critical role in the process. Let’s face it, without the pieces, the final product is impossible to finish. From materials like frame, foam, leather and hardware to process like sewing, cutting, assembly and covering, the Micro Plant will walk attendees through each step in the process.

TW : What do you hope visitors to the show learn from the Micro Plant?

Richards: I really hope attendees will develop a better understanding of complexities of the furniture manufacturing process but also see, with the

Education

The Furniture Manufacturing Expo also will offer visitors a chance to participate in symposium sessions arranged in three tracks —Woodworking, Upholstery I and Upholstery II. A variety of experts will give presentations over the two-day event covering topics including automation, sewing and fabric matching, among other topics. See Table 1 for the topics and times for the symposium sessions.

quality components and efficient process, manufacturing in the United States is not only possible but can be profitable for businesses.

TW : Are any interesting technologies features in the Micro Plant?

Richards: Every step of the Micro Plant tour will offer an interesting technology including the frame machining from Quis and the high-speed sewing with Henderson Sewing. The technology I am the most excited about though is the digital cutting process provided by Zund America. Our cutting system can digitally scan the leather hide from Crest Leather, respect any natural flaws in the hide material, efficiently nest the cover pieces around those flaws to maximize hide yield. Once cutting completes, the cut parts are automatically conveyed onto our extension table where an ultra-bright 4K projector will color the cut parts based on predetermined assignments for quick and accurate picking and kitting of the parts for future process downstream like sewing. Accurately, fast, efficient and with high yields.

Show Details

The show floor is open Wednesday, July 19, from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. and on Thursday, July 20, 2023, from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Visitors can register in advance for $25 or onsite for $50. Registration includes the educational sessions as well as access to the Micro Plant. TW

For more information about the Furniture Manufacturing Expo, please visit furnituremanufacturingexpo.com.

Success In Atlanta For Collocated Shows

Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas, held recently in Atlanta, presented opportunities for learning and networking through a variety of programs and comprehensive exhibit floor.

TW Special Report

TTechtextil North America and Texprocess Americas, two well established textile industry exhibitions, were held recently at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta. Organized by Messe Frankfurt Inc., the unified edition of these events attracted more than 350 exhibitors from 30 countries and witnessed the participation of numerous attendees representing the entire textile supply chain. This collaborative platform facilitated business development and showcased the latest innovations, products, and technologies in the industry. Techtextil North America is incorporated with ATME-I, and Texprocess Americas is coproduced by SPESA — the industry association for suppliers to the sewn products industry.

Highlights

Kristy Meade, vice president of Technical Textiles & Technology

Shows for Messe Frankfurt Inc., expressed positive thoughts about the diverse exhibitors and attendees who participated in the show. “This year, we were excited to bring together a variety of exhibitors and attendees from across the industry spectrum,” Meade said. “We were able to provide a space where they could not only showcase their innovations and learn about industry trends, but also develop new business relationships and find opportunities for growth in the market.”

During the three-day event, visitors had the chance to explore products up close, witness live demonstrations, attend educational sessions, and engage with exhibitors offering cutting-edge solutions across the supply chain. This collaborative environment also provided exhibitors with the opportunity to connect with suppliers and strategic partners, leading to tangible sales opportunities.

Exhibitors praised the event for its ability to showcase their products and innovations to a global audience, while also facilitating networking and business promotion. Justin Hershoran, director of real-time analytics for Alpharetta, Ga.-based Aptean highlighted the positive outcomes of participating in the show. “The reason that we are here is to interact with new clientele,” Hershoran said. “We actually see great results from this show. Every time we have done it, it leads to solid sales for us. It’s not just the marketing, it’s the real dollars that come in as a result.”

Jacob Blackburn, in global marketing for Mount Holly, N.C.-based American and Efird (A&E), also expressed enthusiasm, emphasizing how Texprocess Americas provides a platform to showcase A&E’s diverse line of thread products. “From staying up-to-date with the latest trends to learning about new innovations within the textile industry, Texprocess Americas supplies a great platform to network and promote our business,”Blackburn noted.

Exhibitor Steve Bassetti, director of Global Marketing, Cincinnatibased Michelman, shared: “Michelman sees considerable potential for growth in the technical textile industry, and the energy we saw at Techtextil confirms that belief. The show was well attended and allowed us to network with many current and potential partners while learning more about the industry. And of course, it was a great opportunity to share how our solutions can improve textile performance in a planet-positive way.”

“We found the traffic at Techtextil North America this year to be better than expected,” said Rick Stanford, vice president of global market development, Baldwin Technology Co. Inc., Rock Hill, S.C. “Also, this is the first year that we exhibited with our new North American sales partner, Fi-Tech.In the few months that we have worked with Fi-Tech, we could not be more pleased with their connection and reputation to the tex-

TECHTEXTIL NORTH AMERICA/ TEXPROCESS AMERICAS REVIEW

tile industry.We had numerous visitors from engineers to senior leaders and decision makers who spent quality time with us discussing how they can lower their carbon footprint by transitioning from pad finishing to TexCoat G4’s precision spray finishing, saving money on gas, electricity, chemistry and water.”.”

Attendees also shared their positive experiences. “This is an excellent show to meet new suppliers and firm up some relationships from the past,” commented Paul T. McCabe, owner, Marietta, Ga.-based McCabe Textile Co. “Now that COVID is in the back window, this show and similar fairs will hopefully get rebuilt and thrive. Several of my suppliers were very satisfied with the traffic, requests for samples and eventual follow ups. If there were additional mills and converters showing I feel the attendance would grow.”

Associated Features

Notably, the 2023 edition featured symposium sessions, Tech Talks, Tech Zone, and introduced the new Career and Training Center. The Innovation Awards, another new addition to the collocated event, recognized outstanding achievements in new technologies, concepts and sustainability efforts.

The symposium sessions, held away from the show floor in a classroom setting, were a crucial component of the educational track. Sessions featured industry experts who delved into critical topics such as aerospace and defense, supply chain evolution, manufacturing innovation and sustainability.

Jennifer Guarino with the Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center (ISAIC) highlighted the importance of these sessions. “More than ever, these conversations are about real solutions,” Guarino said. “We’re talking vertically with big and small retailers and big and small manufacturers at the table. So, I thought [the discussions] were very inspiring and very challenging, which is exactly what we need at Texprocess Americas.”

Techtextil North America And Texprocess Americas — Innovation Award Winners Announced

The 2023 Innovation Awards conferred at Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas honored the industry’s cutting-edge developments. The awards ceremony recognized textile technologies that exhibited new concepts, technologies, applications, sustainability approaches and digitalization.

Kristy Meade, vice president of Technical Textiles & Technology Shows for Messe Frankfurt Inc., expressed her pleasure that the awards were incorporated with the Atlanta editions of the collocated shows. “We are happy to bring the Innovation Awards to the U.S. editions of Techtextil North America & Texprocess Americas which will enable and encourage new market developments and is a testament to the ingenuity and vision of the brands participating at these shows.”

Award winners in a variety of categories were announced during a press conference held on the first day of the event. Recipients were:

• New Concept Winner — Henderson Sewing Machine Co. Inc. and Matsuya R&D for The Intelligent Robot Sewing Machine with Digital Image Processing System

• New Technology Winner SPEC and Svegea of Sweden for the SVEGEA EC-450XF

• New Application Winner Pathfinder Cutting Technology for

FabricPro: Revolutionizing Fabric Spreading with Innovative Safety Features and Improved Operator Ergonomics

• New Product Winner

Stratasys for the Stratasys J850™ TechStyle™ direct-to-textile 3D printer

• New Approaches on Sustainability & Circular Economy Winner — Henderson Sewing Machine Co. Inc. and Twine Solutions Ltd. for the Thread Digital Dyeing System TS-1800

• New Technologies on Sustainability & Recycling Winner — Germany-based Dürkopp Adler GmbH for the M-TYPE DELTA e-con

• New Technology & Digitalization Winner — SEDDI for SEDDI Textura: Real Fabrics Digitized Brilliantly with AI

Michael McDonald, SPESA president, emphasized that the Innovation Awards aim to bring solutions to the forefront of the industry and create a market for new developments. “While the award-winning technologies will create market opportunities and boost business, the commitment to product excellence and market innovation that the award winners and everyone who submitted entries have shown is what will drive market impulses,” McDonald noted.

The inaugural Innovation Award winners with their accolades.

Attendee Rick Fowler of Youngone Corp. praised the symposium, expressing his satisfaction with the industry’s commitment to tackling sustainability concerns that was evident from the sessions.

Tech Talks

The Techtextil North America Tech Talks, presented on the show floor, were hosted by the Hohenstein Institute America’s Casey Strauch and Melissa Sharp with NC State’s Zeis Textiles Extension. The complimentary presentations, demonstrations, and discussions on technical advancements and textile applications covered sustainability, technology-driven workforce development, and the future of technical design topics, among other topics.

Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Pattern Maker managed and moderated the Texprocess Americas Tech Talks. She commended the event’s success and the positive

interactions. “I had an awesome week of insightful conversations with industry leaders at Texprocess Americas,” Scheer said. “I am so proud of this series. All the planning and preparation really paid off when I looked out into the full audiences — even standing room overflow —and seeing interest flow into side chats with speakers afterwards moving into exhibit booths. What a successful show!”

Career And Training Center

A new addition to this year’s exhibitions was the Career and Training Center, which combined professional development with practical training. The Textile Technology Center at Gaston College provided valuable resources related to the industry’s career landscape and networking tips. Furthermore, hands-on training sessions were conducted by Sewn Products Equipment and Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) association

members, facilitating machine repair and maintenance training, as well as the use of augmented reality tools for scalable growth in the industry.

Innovation Awards

The Innovation Awards recognized unique concepts and hard work in textile technologies across various application areas. The winners represented innovative technologies, concepts and sustainability approaches (see sidebar).

“We were thrilled to introduce the Innovation Awards to the American market this year and acknowledge the hard work each of our award winners has made to develop and implement new products, technologies, growth strategies and other remarkable contributions to this industry,” Meade said.

Techtextil North America will take place next in Raleigh, N.C., August 20-22, 2024. The collocated Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America will return to Atlanta from May 6-8, 2025. These future events promise to build upon the success of the 2023 editions. TW

Scenes from around the show floor at the 2023 collocated Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas event.

A Legitimate Glimpse Into The Future Of Composites A Legitimate Glimpse Into The Future Of Composites

Rarely does one have the opportunity to look into the future especially from a business and technology perspective. However, for those attending the recent JEC World 2023 the future and direction of the composites industry was on full display throughout the show floor. This annual event —held at the Paris Nord Villepinte Exhibition Centre —brings together virtually every segment of the composites industry supply chain from around the world. The 2023 edition welcomed more than 40,000 attendees from 106 different countries to view the exhibits of approximately 1,200 companies. Everything from raw material inputs to fiber reinforcement technologies, resin systems, processing methodologies and final product applications were on full display throughout the exhibit halls.

The depth and variety of innovation found at JEC World 2023 was truly inspiring as were the many different facets of technology and applications in seemingly every direction. There were several highlights, observations and trends that stood out post show.

The recent JEC World show in Paris offered participants a view of the industry’s global direction.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

Sustainability, Recycling and Circularity

Exhibits on the show floor and conversations with attendees made it blatantly obvious that sustainability, recycling and circularity continue to be hot topics. These subjects are directly affecting and influencing the global business climate and the composites industry is not excluded from these influences. Europe has embraced and advanced sustainability efforts much more so than North America has to date. Almost every larger booth and many of the smaller ones at JEC World had some notation or display specific to sustainable practices and

products. Numerous fibers, fabrics, resin systems and processing technologies promoted their sustainable, recyclable and/or circular attributes; while several exhibitors promoted either the ability to recycle their products or showed products that had been produced using recycled content. Interestingly, several of these products included variations using recycled carbon and glass content.

Natural Fiber And Bio-Based Technologies

Driven in part by the sustainability movement, natural fibers —such as flax, hemp, jute and bamboo —as well as green and bio-based resin systems continue to gain stature and support in composite applications. As demand and usage grows, and with improvements in processing and this segment’s supply chain, these natural options demonstrate performance upsides and potentially lower costs than comparable carbon or glass products. JEC World 2023 featured a dedicated and greatly expanded section of floor space to

One of several electric vertical take-off and landing (eVTOL) aircrafts on display at the 2023 JEC World expo.

emphasize the use of natural fibers, such as flax and hemp, in composites, which included examples of what products may be or are being produced using natural fibers. There also was an “Industry Planet Showcase” exhibit area to highlight a variety of impressive applications, including boats, sporting goods and high-performance automotive parts produced from sustainable inputs.

Composite Design, Processing Technologies And Automation

Continue To Advance

Numerous advances in composite design, processing technologies and

automation were evident on the show floor. Design systems specific to fiber orientation and placement have further evolved and improved. Robotics and automation continue their advancement onto the production floor in order to reduce cost and complexity in addition to improving the accuracy, quality and repeatability of composite parts manufacturing while reducing waste. Also, thermoset resin systems, various molding materials, consumables and other technologies including systematic improvements to the molding process itself bode well for the continued reduction in processing times and resulting costs.

Fiber Placement Continues To Evolve

Enhanced and refined fiber placement technologies, whether with roving or spread tow tapes, were found in several booths and the advances witnessed are impressive as was the complexity of the products generated. Tailored fiber placement (TFP) — a technique based on using sewing machines or embroidery heads to stitch the fiber reinforcement media onto a sacrificial or inclusive backing to create complex preforms —and fiber placement using robotic systems continue to show great improvements and potential in assorted applications. The basic premise for either of these technologies is to place the fiber reinforcement exactly where and to whatever level the application requires it in a repeatable, costeffective and efficient manner. This allows for more complex shapes and structures to be created without the need for the potential additional costs and likelihood of increased waste associated with using traditional fabric reinforcements.

Spread Tow Tapes Continue to Gain In Popularity

The use of spread tow tapes continues to grow and gain in popularity in both fabric formation and fiber placement segments for composite applications. As discussed previously in T e x t i l e W o r l d (see “Reintroducing DORNIER’s Composite Systems Suite” TW , September/October 2021),

Clockwise from top left: The FLAX27 Daysailer by Greenboats, a sailing yacht made using 80 percent natural (flax) and/or recycled materials; Carbon composite car wheel and several fiber placement pieces; and Composite bicycles made with Swancor developed EzCiclo, a recyclable epoxy resin system.

spread tow is a methodology of taking a roving —a large fibrous bundle — and spreading the individual fibers out so as to make thin tapes and allow the filaments to be more cleanly oriented. Using spread tows results in composite parts with higher fiber volume fractions —the ratio of the fiber present to the total volume of the part — and in many cases results in improved performance. Support industries have clearly noticed the spread tow trend. Textechno, a textile testing technology company based in Germany, used JEC World to introduce its new TAPETEST machine. TAPETEST is a commercial testing and evaluation system specifically devoted to the detailed characterization and quality of spread tow tapes.

Differences Found Between The Europe- and U.S.-Based Trade Shows

It was interesting to note some of the differences found between JEC World and other composites-focused shows organized in the United States. Depending on which metric is used, JEC World is probably three- to five-times larger than the Composites and Advanced Materials Expo (CAMX) which will be held this fall in Atlanta, or the Society of Advanced Materials and Process Engineering (SAMPE) event held earlier this year. Exhibitor booths at JEC World are generally larger and more detailed than found at CAMX, SAMPE or even other technical textiles-oriented shows.

Many of the booths at JEC World focus much more on applications rather than technology where the United States tends to want to hide the applications so as to not invite competition. However, Paul Latten, director of research and development at Southeast Nonwovens, Clover, S.C., mentioned that it was interesting to see all of the applications on display. “The examples of applications are what draws people into the booth and elicits discussion, not necessarily the fibers and fabrics,” Lat-

JEC Composites Startup Booster 2023 Winners

TW Special Report

During JEC World 2023, winners of the annual JEC Composites Startup Booster were announced. The competition, launched in 2017, is a prominent platform for entrepreneurial ventures in the composites industry worldwide. The competition not only offers a unique opportunity for participating startups but also allows the international JEC World audience to gain inspiration, forge connections and foster business collaborations. Each year, 20 startups with groundbreaking projects utilizing composite materials are selected to pitch their ideas before a panel of expert judges on the renowned JEC World stage.This year, the event featured two pitch sessions, culminating in three category winners.

The Winners

In the "Products & Materials" category, Canada-based INCA Renewable Technologies emerged victorious. For

the "Process, Manufacturing & Equipment" category, Switzerland-based Composite Recycling secured the top spot. Finally, Egypt-based Agrona claimed the Sustainability Prize.

The awards not only bring visibility and recognition to the winners, but also provide them with connections to key decision-makers in the industry.

The Jury

The jury responsible for selecting the winners consisted of representatives from major manufacturers and investors including Turlough McMahon, Composite Industrial technologist, Airbus; Karl-Heinz Fueller, manager, Future Outside & Materials, MercedesBenz; Raphael Salapete, R&T Plan manager, Ariane Group; Christer Larsson, founding partner of The Impact Fellowship; and Chris Skinner, vice president of Strategic Marketing, Owens Corning.

JEC Composites Startup Booster award winners (left to right) Agrona, Composite Recycling and INCA Renewable Technologies

ten said. “They are how you get there, but the actual finished pieces are certainly much more interesting.”

Oh, and yes the food available on the JEC World show floor was better, but after all, the event is held in Paris!

The use of composites only continues to grow and gain acceptance globally as evidenced by the wide array and variety of technologies, methodologies and composite part applications on display at JEC World. The event is held in Paris,

which some may think of as a “boondoggle trip,” but attending JEC World should not be viewed in that way. Simply stated, attending JEC World is a fantastic way for anyone directly involved in or who may have some level of interest in the North American composites industry to either learn from or gauge where they actually stand in the global composites marketplace and even catch a viable glimpse of what the future will bring. TW

Work And Play Networking

TThe Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) held its 2023 spring conference at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C. The theme for the event was “Energize, Optimize and Sustain.” The speaker lineup featured the following presenters and topics:

•Jenna Shaw & Brad Porter, Deloitte — “Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) Landscape”;

•Trevor Waycott, Stren-Flex, Robert “Bob” Jasany, WSTDA, and Bob Hancuff, Burlan Manufacturing LLC —“An Introduction to Web Sling & Tie Down Association (WSTDA)”;

•Dr. Kate Riley, Textile Exchange — “Synthetics at Textile Exchange: A Deep Dive Into Strategy and Approach to Meet Climate + Targets”;

•Bryce Krulic, Staco Energy Products —“Power Quality and Its Effects on Energy and Equipment”;

•Roger Tutterow, Ph.D., Kennesaw State University —“Economic Update”;

SYFA’s spring conference was augmented with the association’s inaugural fundraising golf tournament.

•Srinivasan “Shankar” Prabhushankar, Indorama — “The Role of Synthetic Yarn & Fabric for a Sustainable World”;

•Matt Bridges, Goulston Technologies —“Novel Additives Developed to Improve the Environmental Footprint of Fabric Laundering”; and

•Sean Bernhardt, Avient — “Sustainability at Avient: Material Science For a Better Tomorrow.”

The lineup of speakers covered topics outside of the typical textile industry subject matter that attendees have come to expect. The broader topics of power quality and ESG were equally enjoyed by SYFA members at the meeting.

“It was encouraging to see the interaction and hear the positive feedback from several attendees related to the greater breadth of content at the spring conference,” said Dan Sistrunk, SYFA immediate past president.“Expanding the speaker slate to include ‘non-traditional’ topics such as ESG and energy management seemed to really resonate and provide additional value to the membership.”

Conference sponsors included Diamond Sponsor Premier Fibers Inc.; Gold Sponsor Jomar Softcorp International Inc.; Silver Sponsors Goulston Technologies and Pulcra Chemicals LLC; Bronze Sponsors Avient, Unifi Inc. and DuBose Strapping & Packaging; and Patron Measured Solutions.

Ahead of the event, SYFA organized an inaugural golf tournament at the Rocky River Golf Course in Concord, N.C. Participants enjoyed a round of golf in a “Captain's Choice” format with individual prizes for longest drives and closest to the pin on designated holes, as

Below: Teammates hoisted Jackson Young in the air to celebrate his hole-in-one.

Left: The winning golfing team from Navis TubeTex comprised of Todd Dickson, Will Motchar, Mark West and Dan Outlaw.

well as the lowest overall team score. A good time was had by all. The winning team was comprised of Will Motchar, Todd Dickson, Mark West and Dan Outlaw with Lexington,

N.C.-based Navis TubeTex. Jackson Young, management trainee-Process Improvement, at Unifi Inc., also beat the 12,500 to 1 odds with his closest to the pin winning shot —a hole-in-one!

Proceeds from the tournament support a scholarship fund for students enrolled at Gaston College in the new Textile Technology program. This program is designed to educate and train students in textile manufacturing and other areas related to textiles to further strengthen the industry.

“The SYFA Spring Conference demonstrated, once again, the industry’s enthusiasm for gathering to network and hear about advancements in product innovation, sustainability and the economy,” said Hardy Sullivan, SYFA president. “Five of the

eight presentations covered topics related to sustainability.

“But it wasn’t all work and no play,” Sullivan continued. “The inaugural golf tournament was a resounding success, capped off with a hole-in-one! Everyone is so busy with work. This was a rare opportunity to enjoy time with friends while networking and supporting a good cause.I’m happy to report we exceeded our goal to raise funds to support an annual scholarship for Gaston College’s associates programs in textiles.Given its success, I expect the golf tournament will become a fixture every spring.”

The fall SYFA meeting is scheduled for October 26-27, 2023. Visit the association’s website, thesyfa.org, for more information as the date draws closer. TW

Top row (left to right): Matt Bridges, Goulston Technologies; Dr. Roger Tutterow, Kennesaw State University; and Srinivasan “Shankar” Prabhushankar, Indorama

Middle row (left to right): Sean Bernhardt, Avient; Hardy Sullivan, SYFApresident; and Robert “Bob” Jasany (left), Web Sling & Tie Down Association, Bob Hancuff (center), Burlan Manufacturing LLC, and Trevor Waycott, Stren-Flex

Bottom row (left to right): Dr. Kate Riley, Textile Exchange; Brad Porter and Jenna Shaw, Deloitte; and Bryce Krulic, Staco Energy Products

A selection of images from the open house showing attendees networking with Itema employees as they learn more about Itema America’s expertise in technical textiles weaving and the available technologies.

•The A9500, a 430-centimeter (cm)-wide air-jet weaving machine with proprietary iLeno System, shown weaving polypropylene for agrotextiles;

•The R9500 Dobby 190-cm-wide rapier weaving machine weaving aramid yarns for protective fabrics; and

•The Hercules Dobby, 240-cmwide positive rapier weaving machine, which was shown running heavy canvas fabric for the bag industry during the open house.

The company expects the positive

market trend to technical textiles will continue for the foreseeable future and will continue to cater to this demanding segment of the weaving market. Itema notes thanks to the unique expertise and competence poured into Itematech, technical weavers should consider the company an excellent partner that can meet and exceed their needs when it comes to weaving a full range of technical fabrics for a variety of applications.

The Itema showroom is always open. Anyone interested in learning more about Itema’s expanded tech-

nical weaving capabilities can reach out to make an appointment. Itema reports there will be more announcements to come. Stay tuned! TW

To learn more about Itema America’s technical weaving solutions or to make an appointment to visit the showroom, contact Scott Malcolm, 864-316-4591, scott. malcolm@itemagroup.com; Doug Merritt, 704-813-7279, doug.merritt@itemaamericas.com; or Kemp Smith, 864-4942889, kemp.smith@itema-americas.com. Itema will showcase its latest innovations at the upcoming ITMA2023 in Hall 6, Booth B105.

Outgoing NCTO Chairman David Poston outlined key industry facts and economic data in his “State of the U.S. Textile Industry” address during NCTO’s 19th annual meeting.

By David Poston

2023 State Of The U.S. Textile Industry

LLet me begin by saying what an honor and privilege it has been serving as chairman of the Washington-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO).

The business climate in 2022 was defined by a multitude of global and domestic challenges impacting our industry’s overall performance.

The U.S. textile and apparel industry faced challenging macroeconomic conditions throughout the year.

As we all witnessed, the headwinds from global supply chain disruptions, inflation at home, rising material costs and rising interest rates were strong. Fluctuating consumer demand started out strong in the first half but flattened by the second half of the year as inflationary pressures flipped the script from an economy fueled by excess demand and inadequate supply to one of too much supply and not enough demand.

Despite these challenges, there also were many positive trends that helped offset some of those pressures, including softening inflation towards the latter half of the year, coupled with a surge in onshoring and nearshoring that led to historic

investments, commitments and expansion in the U.S. and the Western Hemisphere.

Overall, our industry remained resilient with strong performances in some key areas in 2022. We remain cautiously optimistic that we will see growth this year, though inflationary pressures and rising costs are expected to persist.

NCTO has been highly engaged in working with the Biden administration and our allies in Congress to achieve key policy priorities, and we succeeded on many fronts in 2022.

I would like to sincerely thank our staff, led by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas, as well as our industry leadership for successfully navigating through challenging economic times and polarization in Congress, while partnering with the administration and key congressional offices to secure a number of critical achievements last year.

NCTO’s effective advocacy efforts resulted in a long list of accomplishments in 2022, including enhancing government procurement of U.S. textile-based products, intensifying pressure to crack down on unprecedented abuse of our de minimis

waiver system, safeguarding the integrity of our free trade agreements, and maintaining a strong position on China trade enforcement, including tariffs on finished textile and apparel.

Last month, many of you participated in a number of Zoom calls with House and Senate leadership on maintaining the integrity of the yarn forward rule of origin in the Dominican Republic Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTADR) and advancing a proactive agenda to drive investment and expand regional co-production in the CAFTA-DR region.

Your participation in these discussions matter and are critical to pushing our issues collectively.

I would like to sincerely thank the entire NCTO staff for this enormous effort and to all the NCTO members who participated in these critical discussions.

Before laying out NCTO’s policy wins in 2022, I want to quickly recap how the industry fared last year.

By The Numbers

We continued to expand our capital investments, exports and value of shipments in 2022.

Many metrics for our industry were strong last year, as business continued to increase exports and investments.

In 2022, the value of U.S. manmade fiber, textile and apparel shipments totaled an estimated $65.8 billion, compared with $64.04 billion in shipments in 2021.1

Here are two additional key industry facts:

•U.S. exports were also up compared to 2021. Exports of fibers, textiles and apparel were $34 billion in 2022 compared with $28.4 billion in 2021.2

•Capital expenditures have remained strong. Investment in yarn, fabric, apparel and sewn product manufacturing in 2021 — the latest figure that is available — hit $2.27 billion in 2021 compared with $1.85 billion in 2020.

Onshoring and nearshoring trends strengthened Made in USA production as you can see from these metrics, and policies in Washington aimed at expanding Berry and Buy American rules are contributing to overall growth in American-made products for the military, PPE and federal agencies.

Once again, the Western Hemisphere supply chain remained a key driver behind the industry’s growth and remains a vital economic engine for the textile and apparel sectors.

We have $39.8 billion in annual two-way trade with the Western Hemisphere, representing an 18.4percent increase over the past five

Value Of Shipments ($ billions)

years, which supports 2 million direct jobs in the entire supply chain.

Trade flows remained positive and on a growth track, despite the headwinds from three years of sourcing disruptions due to the pandemic.

U.S. textile and apparel exports to the Western Hemisphere rose 14.9 percent to reach $18 billion in 2022, compared with five years ago in 2017. Similarly apparel and textile imports to the United States from the Western Hemisphere continue to rise. These imports from the entire region to the United States grew by 21.4 percent to hit $21.8 billion over the same time period.

The bottom line is the fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry are sound, though headwinds this year will weigh heavily on business decisions. Our industry’s resilience in the face of a once-in-a-generation pandemic with COVID-19 gives me con-

fidence it will weather the perfect storm of inflation, supply chain disruptions and rising costs.

Policy Issues

NCTO was highly engaged in policy debates in Washington last year, advocating on every aspect of critical trade and economic issues impacting our industry’s performance and growth.

I would like to highlight a few accomplishments NCTO staff achieved during the year.

CAFTA-DR

NCTO engaged directly with the administration and congress to underscore the importance of strong trade rules to the economic stability of Central America and the need for increased private sector investment in regional manufacturing. NCTO staff also worked to counter a wellfunded effort by certain importers designed to undermine the yarn forward rule of origin in the CAFTADR agreement to allow third-party textile inputs from Asia to displace U.S. and Central American-made textile inputs.

Further, NCTO continues to work with various elements of the federal government, including the Vice President’s office, USTR, the State Department, and the National Security Council to identify and implement solutions that will increase regional co-production and expand export opportunities for U.S. textiles.

Man-Made Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Apparel &Sewn Products Only

Exports of Fiber, Textiles & Apparel ($ billions)

Capital Investment ($ millions)

Thanks to these efforts, Administration’s Call to Action for new investment, and the strength of CAFTA-DR, nearly $2 billion of new textile and apparel investments were made in the United States and Central America region.

Buy American Reform

NCTO partnered with congressional allies in 2022 to press designated federal departments for quick adoption of the Make PPE in America-legislation that applies Berry Amendment rules to nearly all personal protective equipment purchased by the federal government and ensures minimum two-year federal PPE contracts. This is something NCTO is continuing to lead an all-out push for agencies to adopt these critical standards.

Additionally, NCTO worked with our allies at the Warrior Protection and Readiness Coalition (WPRC) and several other industry associations and labor unions to help secure passage of the Homeland Procurement Reform (HOPR) Act, as part of the FY 2023 National Defense Authorization Act (NDM). The HOPR Act encourages increased domestic sourcing and aims to support U.S. small businesses by improving the ability of the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) to purchase high-quality, American-made uniforms and PPE for frontline personnel. NCTO will be working in concert with partner organizations to help ensure this new law is enacted swiftly.

There are numerous other issues requiring NCTO’s focus and resources, such as amplifying support for the Section 301 case against China’s intellectual property abuses, promoting tariffs on finished products, the need to pass a new Miscellaneous Tariff bill with immediate and full retroactivity, and continued engagement with the Hill on preserving a provision that would effectively close the de minimis loophole for Chinese imports.

Due to time constraints, I cannot go into all of these important issues. But please know that without exception, NCTO is highly engaged on every policy matter that affects the U.S. textile industry with the intent of shaping policy determinations in a manner that directly benefits U.S. textile investment, production and workforce.

Industry leadership and involvement is of paramount importance. From contributions to NCTO’s TextilePAC to arranging congressional visits to facilities, the industry can make a difference and help raise the level of awareness about its importance to the overall U.S. economy and workforce, and to the local and state economies it supports.

Conclusion

The business environment for the year ahead looks challenging but based on the growth we are seeing in capital expenditures, output, exports and investments in the Western

Hemisphere partners, I remain cautiously optimistic.

We will closely monitor emerging issues this year and continue to engage with Congress and the administration on a whole host of policy issues impacting our industry. Working in conjunction with our Western Hemisphere trading partners, we believe we can capitalize on the onshoring and nearshoring trends that we are seeing and strengthen our co-production chain, investment and employment.

That concludes my formal remarks.

On a personal note, I have been honored to serve as chairman of a highly effective organization and dedicated staff, which tirelessly advocates on policies impacting the day-to-day operations of our organizations and this economically vital industry.

I truly am optimistic about the innovative strength of the industry and its resilience to economic challenges. With the support of this effective trade and lobbying organization in Washington, we can overcome unforeseen challenges and continue to cement our position as an integral sector to the U.S. economy and the Western Hemisphere. TW

References:

1 Bureau of Economic Analysis

2 U.S. Department of Commerce data for Export Group 0: Textiles and Apparel.

Editor’s Notes: David Poston is president of Palmetto Synthetics, Kingstree, S.C. He served as NCTO chairman for FY 2022. At the recent NCTO meeting in Washington, Norman Chapman, president of Inman Mills, succeeded Poston as NCTOchairman for FY 2023.

The North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) is the standard used by Federal statistical agencies in classifying business establishments for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data related to the U.S. business economy. NAICS

Subsector 313 covers Textile Mills, subsector 314 covers Textile Product Mills and subsector 315 covers Apparel.

Investment has Totaled $20.2 Billion Since 2011

KNITTING/APPAREL

Pailung’s High Pile

Fabric Makes For Extra-Durable Winter Wear

retain their strength. The surface maintains a high level of anti-pilling, while the bottom layer resists snagging and shedding.

Low Production Cost

The process of knitting Pailung’s three-layer high pile fabric is much less labor-intensive than traditional processes, which require at least one lamination step followed by two further knitting steps. Instead, Pailung’s high pile fabric requires just the knitting steps. Not only does it save manpower, it also saves time and reduces power consumption.

TTaiwan-based Pailung’s latest high pile fabric collection, the “Cozy Collection,” includes high-density high pile, two-sided high pile and three-layer high pile. These fabrics are ideal for outdoor garments, winter wear, and coats and gloves.

The knitted high pile fabrics feature a high-density structure and double-sided application, with different colors and fiber lengths. They’re environmentally friendly, lightweight, warm, windproof, and offer the wearer a full range of movement.

Ethical, vegan winter wear has relied heavily on adhesives. Ironically, garments that are labeled as ethical or vegan may not actually be recyclable, and they could finish up in a landfill, incinerator, or ocean.

Thanks to new advances in knitting machinery, Pailung has developed a plush alternative to adhesive technologies that is both ethical and sustainable. Pile fabrics can be manufactured economically, without sacrificing the premium quality that

world-class fashion and apparel brands expect.

Durable And Recyclable

High pile fabrics usually are bonded using an adhesive to seal the layers together. But this method creates a recycling problem. In order to recycle a high pile fabric, the layers first need to be separated from one another, and adhesives make separation difficult.

Pailung presents a solution whereby the layers are knitted together, eliminating adhesives from the production process. Specific combinations of yarn can be selected for recyclability, and recycled yarns can also be utilized. Provided that each layer is itself recyclable, the entire high pile fabric made using Pailung’s technology can be recycled.

Another added benefit is durability. Because Pailung’s high pile fabric is knit, not bonded, the resulting fabric is incredibly durable. With repeated washing cycles, adhesives may deteriorate, but knitted fabrics

At the same time, the process does not limit flexibility in terms of design or manufacturing. The length of fibers on both sides of the fabric can be directly controlled on the knitting machine, creating many possibilities for designers. Furthermore, when printing patterns on one side, the patterns will not bleed through to the other side. In turn, controlling fiber length also minimizes the subsequent shearing process for manufacturers.

Comparison With Sliver Knit Fabric

Pailung’s high pile can achieve a similar density to sliver knit fabrics. Similarly, with Pailung’s high pile fabric technology, sliver knit fabrics are produced using circular knitting machines. The main difference between the fabrics comes from the production process.

In sliver knitting, the face fibers that imitate fur are attached to the fabric by means of a knitting sliver and base yarn. Sliver knit fabrics have longer and denser piles on the fabric surface than most pile jerseys, but the sliver knit fibers are difficult to collect, and the final fabric is usually heavier than Pailung’s high pile. TW

Pailung reports its High Pile fabric featured in its latest cozy collection is suitable for extra durable winter wear.

Editor’s Note: Pailung will debut its Cozy Collection of high pile fabrics at ITMA 2023 in Milan.

Recyclable and low cost, Pailung’s latest fabric technology uses knitting instead bonding techniques to produce adhesive-free high pile fabric for clothing, upholstery and industrial end-uses.

Nouvelles Fibres Textiles’ circular and sustainable ecosystem with ANDRITZ

Textile Sustainability Development Snapshots

OOver the past handful of years, the textile industry has developed a growing interest in sustainability in virtually all facets of textile manufacturing and product lifecycles. Recent headlines have featured many textile sustainability developments from a broad range of companies.

A snapshot of recent developments includes Israel-based Sonovia’s partnership with Italybased denim developer PureDenim to install indigo yarn dyeing technology into France-based Kering’s

denim production lines; a partnership between Tokyo-based Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical, Japan, to commercialize a chemical recycling process for nylon 6,6; a line of sustainable carpet backing products from Germany-based Freudenberg Performance Materials; and a new foreign material removal technology to eliminate polyurethane elastomer fiber from discarded polyester apparel developed by Tokyo-based Teijin Frontier Co. Ltd.

In addition, Austria-based ANDRITZ has entered a partnership

The textile industry’s interest in all things sustainability has grown through the years from simple conservation initiatives into a comprehensive sustainable approach to product and manufacturing.

with Pellenc ST and Nouvelles Fibres Textiles to set up an industrial-scale automatic textile sorting line in France combining automated sorting and recycling technology; while Austria-based Lenzing Group has launched its Fiber Recycling Initiative by TENCEL™ with valued mill partners. Lastly, Spain-based Jeanologia has reduced water consumption from fabric to finished garment with its eco-efficient technologies.

These and many more companies are addressing key challenges faced by the global textile industry, including water consumption, chemical waste, energy expenditure and the environmental impact of textile production. The following narrative explores each of these company’s contributions to textile sustainability.

Indigo Yarn Dyeing

Sonovia, in collaboration with PureDenim, has partnered with luxury group Kering to implement Sonovia’s groundbreaking indigo yarn dyeing technology into its denim production lines. Kering aims to reduce its absolute greenhouse gas emissions by 40 percent. According to the company, traditional indigo yarn dyeing processes are known for heavy water usage, consuming an average of 60,000 liters per process, and reliance on chemicals like hydrosulfite. Sonovia’s D(y)ENIM indigo yarn dyeing ultrasound technology revolutionizes the process by significantly reducing water usage by up to 85 percent and eliminating hydrosulfite completely.

This partnership with Kering represents a transformative shift in the fashion world by addressing water consumption, chemical waste, and energy expenditure in denim manufacturing.

“Sonovia’s technology is the ultimate step towards near-zero-impact indigo dyeing,” said Gigi Caccia, CEO and owner of PureDenim. “Having forward-looking partners like Sonovia and Kering gives us courage to take on challenges that until yesterday seemed unattainable.”

Microwaves For Depolymerization

Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical have launched a joint demonstration project with the aim of commercializing a chemical recycling process for nylon 6,6, also known as polyamide 66 (PA66), using microwave technology.

PA66 is widely used in automotive and electronic products, and its demand is expected to increase globally. The conventional manufacturing process for PA66 relies on fossil fuelderived intermediates, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions.

Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical’s collaboration focuses on developing a manufacturing process for PA66 that reduces greenhouse gas emissions compared to traditional methods.

Microwave Chemical’s PlaWave™ technology platform for decomposing plastic using microwaves can depolymerize PA66 and obtain monomers like hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid for the production of new PA66. The project aims to achieve resource circulation and reduce greenhouse gas emissions by leveraging microwave tech-

Colback ECO is a sustainable carpet backing product offered by Freudenberg Performance Materials.

Asahi Kasei is working with Microwave Chemical to commercialize a process for recycling nylon 6,6 using microwave technology.

Chemical decomposition of polyamide 66 using microwave technology

Heating plastics in solvent

Heating plastics in solvent

nology and exploring the use of renewable energy.

Flooring: Reduced Environmental Impact

Freudenberg Performance Materials has introduced its next-generation sustainable carpet backing products — Colback ECO and Lutradur ECO — for the flooring industry. The flooring industry is faced with the challenge of reducing the environmental impact of its products, and Freudenberg is actively supporting its customers in this endeavor.

“Like many other industries, the flooring industry faces challenges to reduce the environmental impact of their products,” said Michaela Reuter, senior vice president and general manager, Regional Business Unit Carpet, Filtration & Shoes EMEA at Freudenberg. “Carpet manufacturers approach this challenge in multiple ways: reducing carbon footprint, increasing recycled content, and improving recyclability are key trends. As a long-term partner, we work closely with our customers to support their journey.”

Freudenberg’s R&D teams have developed a proprietary yarn production technology that enables them to create extremely thin filaments, reducing the raw material required for carpet backings. This not only lowers the carbon footprint but also

improves the recyclability of the carpet at the end of its life cycle.

The ECO product range initially targets carpet tiles and is produced in Europe. Freudenberg plans to expand the ECO portfolio with highrecycled-content backings and other sustainable approaches, supporting the flooring industry’s transition to a circular economy.

Guided By THINK ECO®

Teijin Frontier has developed a new foreign material removal technology to eliminate polyurethane (PU) elastomer fiber from discarded polyester apparel. This technology enhances the quality of recycled polyester fiber derived from clothing

containing PU elastomer fiber. Teijin Frontier’s processing agent dissolves the PU elastomer fiber and removes foreign materials such as dyes, eliminating the need for a separate decolorization process.

The company’s efforts align with its THINK ECO environmental strategy, aiming to achieve ambitious sustainability goals. Teijin Frontier aims to establish a comprehensive ecosystem for polyester fiber, encompassing apparel collection, sorting, and recycling.

By expanding the scope of fiberto-fiber recycling, Teijin Frontier contributes to a zero-waste society and promotes the value of environmentally responsible with its ecoefficient technologies.

Automated Sorting And Recycling

ANDRITZ, in collaboration with Pellenc ST and Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, is establishing an industrialscale automatic textile sorting line in France. This groundbreaking project combines automated sorting and recycling technologies to process post-consumer textile waste. The line will produce recycled fibers tailored for the spinning, nonwoven, and composite industries.

Starting operations in mid-2023, it will serve as a production line for Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, an R&D line for the partners, and a test and

Mechanically recycled TENCEL™ lyocell fiber produced by Spain-based Santaderina is suitable for use in denim fiber production.

Teijin Frontier has developed a new foreign material removal technology to eliminate polyurethane (PU) elastomer fiber from discarded polyester apparel.

demonstration center for customers.

Eric Boël, president, Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, commented: “We are very proud to announce the launch of the Nouvelles Fibres Textiles partnership. Several years of R&D involving key players from both textile and household waste management industries made this possible. We all shared our knowledge and expertise to promote on-the-ground circularity for textiles by full integration of the value chain.”

This partnership aims to achieve industrial-grade material production and large-scale post-consumer textile sorting while promoting traceability, mitigating environmental impacts, reducing the carbon footprint, and creating job opportunities.

Lenzing Group has launched the Fiber Recycling Initiative by TENCEL ™ . Collaborating with mill partners such as Artistic Milliners, Canatiba, and Textil Santanderina, Lenzing Group is driving circularity in the textile industry. The initiative focuses on the production of denim fabrics derived from mechanically recycled Tencel lyocell fibers.

By utilizing preconsumer lyocell waste, Lenzing Group and its partners are redefining sustainability in the denim industry. The fabrics produced retain the core features of Tencel lyocell fibers, including breathability, smooth drape, and long-lasting comfort. With a growing demand for sustainable and circular products, this initiative addresses the call for more environmentally friendly options while ensuring traceability and transparency throughout the supply chain.

Water-Saving Innovations

Jeanologia is focused on revolutionizing denim production by creating water-saving innovations. Water consumption in the textile industry is a pressing concern, and according to the company, Jeanologia is committed to transforming production centers into eco-efficient plants that promote sustainability and circular economy.

Jeanologia reports that the company has successfully reduced water consumption from 100 to 1 liter from fabric to the finished garment using its cutting-edge technologies.

By integrating technologies such as G2 Dynamic, Anubis, G2 Ozone and eFlow, Jeanologia significantly reduces water, chemical, and energy consumption, as well as carbon footprint when compared to conventional indigo dyeing methods.

Its goal is to achieve total dehydration and detoxification in denim production, contributing to a more sustainable textile industry. In addition, Jeanologia emphasizes the importance of measuring environmental impact through the EIM software and continuously striving for lower water consumption and more sustainable processes.

The Sustainability Journey Continues

These types of advancements in textile sustainability are instrumental in driving positive change in the industry. By embracing innovation, collaboration, and environmentally responsible practices, these companies and many others not mentioned here are setting new standards for a more sustainable and circular textile industry.

Efforts in advancing sustainability not only mitigate environmental impacts but also meet the growing demand from consumers for products that align with their values. Through traceability, transparency, and the reduction of water and resource consumption, today’s textile companies are leading the way toward a more sustainable future for the textile industry. TW

Jeanologia’s G2 Atmos is an ozone technology for garment finishing that greatly reduces chemical and water use in sustainable denim production processes.

Fiber Developments: A Focus On Sustainability

As consumers and brands demand sustainable products, the fiber industry plays a vital role in shaping a more environmentally friendly textile industry.

TW Special Report

IIn an era of increasing concern about climate change and its impact on the planet, industries, governments, and academia are coming together to find sustainable textile solutions that minimize environmental impacts.

The textile industry is making significant strides in developing sustainable fibers and reducing its carbon footprint. In exploring the latest fiber

developments with a focus on sustainability, the following highlights the efforts of the Teijin Group, BioFilaments Inc., Renewcell, PrimaLoft Inc., Thai Acrylic Fibre Co., the DITF – Denkendorf Institute for Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibres, the Lenzing Group and RadiciGroup as just a few examples of the industry’s active approach to sustainable fiber solutions.

The Teijin Group

The Teijin Group has made sustainability a core principle of its business activities. The company reports in recognizing the importance of reducing greenhouse gas emissions, it has set targets to achieve a 30-percent reduction in carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) emissions. The company also aims to reduce the portion of emissions from its supply chain by 15 percent.

These targets have been officially validated as science-based targets (SBTs). By aligning its goals with the Paris Agreement’s objectives, Teijin is targeting a carbon-neutral future.

Teijin also announced it developed a method to calculate CO 2 emissions during the Tenax™ carbon fiber production process. This data allowed Teijin to conduct a life cycle assessment (LCA) of all of its carbon fibers.

The Netherlands-based Teijin Aramid, a core business of the Teijin Group, has improved the carbon footprint of Twaron® by 28 percent compared to 2014 according to applicable ISO standards 14040 and 14044.

Teijin Frontier, the company’s fibers and product converting company, also has made significant contributions to sustainability. The company offers products such as ECOPET®, a recycled polyester fiber made from used PET bottles and fiber scraps; and SOLOTEX®, which incorporates plant-derived ingredients in its polymers. Teijin Frontier has also developed a system to calculate CO2 emissions in the polyester fiber manufacturing process, allowing for a comprehensive LCA.

Nanofibrillated Cellulose

Another notable development in the fiber industry is the new nanofibrillated cellulose (NFC) commercial production plant opened by Vancouver, British Columbia-based Performance BioFilaments Inc.

Teijin Aramid reports it has improved the carbon footprint of its Twaron® by 28 percent since 2014.

The plant, located at Resolute’s Forest Products in Quebec, has a daily production capacity of 21 metric tons. NFC is a natural and renewable biomaterial derived from certified forests. According to the company, it offers a low-carbon additive that enhances the performance of advanced materials and specialty chemicals used in applications such as concrete, nonwovens and biocomposite plastics. The availability of commercial volumes of NFC opens up opportunities for various industries to adopt sustainable solutions.

“The Performance BioFilaments team and development partners have dedicated years of effort to bring this low-carbon biomaterial to market,” said Gurminder Minhas, managing director of Performance BioFilaments. “We have collaborated extensively across a range of industrial supply chains, integrating nanofibrillated cellulose to achieve cost, quality and dramatic performance improvements. The availability of commercial volumes means we can readily support large-scale opportunities across a number of major industry sectors.”

Renewcell’s CIRCULOSE®

Stockholm-based Renewcell, a company dedicated to creating circularity in the fashion industry, has partnered with TextileGenesis ™ to establish full pulp-to-retail traceability for its recycled raw material CIRCULOSE ® . Renewcell uses a patented process to break down and recycle cotton and other cellulosic textile waste into Circulose, a biodegradable raw material. According to the company, this material can then be used to create regenerated, man-made cellulosic fibers such as viscose, lyocell, modal or acetate.

Through its collaboration with TextileGenesis, Renewcell can provide real-time digital traceability across its supply chain, ensuring transparency and authenticity for its products. This traceability is crucial for building trust and promoting sustainability in the fashion industry.

“Our new facility in Sundsvall,

Sweden, is helping move us towards our goal of recycling the equivalent of more than 1.4 billion T-shirts per year,” said Renewcell CEO Patrik Lundstrom. “But we also need a trusted and transparent supply chain to ensure the authenticity of products made from CIRCULOSE from our facilities all the way to the retail consumer. That is what TextileGenesis brings to the table.”

PrimaLoft Inc.

Ocean Bound

Latham, N.Y.-based PrimaLoft Inc. also is contributing to sustainable products with its PrimaLoft ® Insulation with Ocean Bound Plastic. This insulation is made from 100-percent post-consumer recycled content, with 60 percent of the recycled material sourced from plastic bottles collected near coastlines.

By preventing plastic waste from reaching the ocean and using it to create high-performance insulation, PrimaLoft is addressing the issue of plastic pollution while delivering sustainable products. The pro-

Above: Renewcell’s patented recycling process transforms cellulosic textile waste into CIRCULOSE® material

Photo Sadia Rafique

Right: Outdoor brand Helly Hansen is an early adopter of PrimaLoft’s Insulation with Ocean Bound Plastic.

cess is certified by OceanCycle, ensuring the material’s ethical sourcing and traceability.

“The quality of plastic quickly degrades once it’s exposed to the elements in ocean water, making it unusable for most recycling efforts,” said Tara Maurer-Mackay, senior vice president, Product Strategy. “By capturing plastic waste before it can reach the ocean, we’re able to use the material to create products that offer our brand partners and consumers the best mix of performance and versatility with a reduced environmental impact.”

According to the company, PrimaLoft Insulation with Ocean Bound Plastic offers the same performance benefits for which PrimaLoft is known, including lightweight thermal performance, packability, and durability. By combining performance with sustainability, PrimaLoft is showing its commitment to its “Relentlessly Responsible™” mission.

Upgraded Regel™ Fiber

Bangkok-based Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. (TAF), a part of Aditya Birla Group, recently introduced an upgraded version of Regel™ fiber, incorporating 75-percent recycled content.

This new variant of Regel fiber, which already contained 50-percent recycled content, now holds the distinction of being the only GRS certified acrylic fiber in the world, according to the company. Regel is manufactured using a chemical recycling process that produces a warm, comfortable fiber in vibrant shades.

“Using recycled materials is a key aspect of sustainability, and products are made from recycled materials are becoming popular among consumers,” said Tuhin Kulshreshtha, head of marketing, TAF. “… increasing the recycled content of Regel from 50 percent to 75 percent will help meet consumers’ demands and provide them with sustainable options. Additionally, [the] higher recycled content in Regel will also allow manufacturers to create sustainable blends without compromising on quality or performance.”

Regel with 75-percent recycled content currently is available in staple form and the company reports it plans to introduce other options such as tow and tops in the future.

Yarn From Castor Oil

RadiciGroup, based in Italy, has introduced Biofeel® Eleven, a naturally sourced yarn made using castor oil, as part of its commitment to technical and environmental performance. Castor oil plantations, primarily located in the Gujarat region of India, provide a source for the beans, which

contain approximately 45 percent oil. This oil, rich in ricinolein, serves as the raw material for the bio-polymer polyamide 11 used for RadiciGroup’s Biofeel Eleven yarn. The remaining byproduct after oil extraction is a highly effective bio-fertilizer that promotes soil health, exemplifying circularity and zero waste.

“Biofeel Eleven has unique and special properties, such as low water absorption, increased lightness and improved strength properties,” noted Marco De Silvestri, sales and marketing head of RadiciGroup’s Advanced Textile Solutions Business Area. “This means being able to produce fabrics that are both durable and comfortable to the touch and skin. This translates into a wide range of applications, from sportswear to workwear, from fashion garments to textiles for luxury cars.”

CELLUN For Composites

The Germany-based Denkendorf Institute for Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibres (DITF) in collaboration with project partners CG TEC, Cordenka, ElringKlinger, Fiber Engineering, and Technikum Laubholz, is developing a new fiber composite material called CELLUN. This material incorporates reinforcing fibers made of cellulose, offering a sustainable alternative to glass or carbon fibers used in industrial molded parts production.

The reinforcing component of CELLUN is a combination of nonfusible fibers and thermoplastic derivatized cellulose fibers — either regenerated fibers from Cordenka or DITF’s HighPerCell® cellulose fibers — as a matrix, which is used to produce a hybrid roving. In DITF’s inhouse pilot plants, this roving is further processed into a hybrid roving or hybrid textile, which can be converted into a molded part using pultrusion and thermoforming processes or injection molding.

The German Federal Ministry of Economics and Climate Protection (BMWK) has partnered with DITF and is funding a project to develop CELLUN to industry maturity. The

Top: The Denkendorf Institute for Textile Chemistry, in conjunction with partners, is researching CELLUN, a sustainable alternative to glass or carbon fibers used in molded parts.

Bottom: Biofeel® Eleven is a yarn from RadiciGroup made using castor oil from the castor bean plant.

project will also look at the possibility to fully recycle CELLUN materials at the end of a product’s life. Two approaches are being researched: thermally reshaping CELLUN molded parts without any quality loss and chemically separating the CELLUN material into its individual components for 100 percent reuse as new starting materials.

The development of CELLUN materials offers a sustainable, resource-conserving, and cost-effective alternative to established composites in the lightweight construction and automotive sectors.

Carbon-Neutral VEOCEL™ Viscose

Austria-based Lenzing Group has announced the expansion of its sustainable viscose fiber portfolio with the launch of carbon-neutral VEOCEL™ branded viscose fibers for Europe and the United States.

In Asia, Lenzing plans to convert its existing production capacity for conventional viscose into capacity for responsible specialty fibers in the second half of the year. This expansion reflects VEOCEL’s commitment to providing nonwovens value chain partners and brands with environmentally friendly options that contribute to reducing carbon footprints.

“Everything we do is centered around VEOCEL’s mission to be a responsible everyday care brand and demonstrate our care for the future of our planet,” said Monique Buch, vice president, Global Nonwovens Business, Lenzing. “We believe it is imperative for us to not only reduce our own carbon emissions, but also to empower our partners to reduce their carbon footprint.”

The carbon-neutral VEOCEL viscose fibers are made from sustainably and responsibly managed wood and pulp sources, adhering to the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy and trusted forest certification systems.

Lenzing’s production plant in Austria employs efficient production methods, such as direct production

Above : Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. recently introduced a version of Regel™ acrylic fiber that incorporates 75-percent recycled content.

Right: Biolace® Zero nonwovens made by Suominen feature carbon-neutral VEOCEL lyocell fibers from Lenzing Group.

from wood to fiber and the use of renewable energy sources like solar power and biomass, to reduce carbon emissions. To offer carbon-neutral products, Lenzing measured, reduced, and offset any remaining emissions through financing climate projects.

Lenzing partnered with ClimatePartner, a provider of corporate climate action solutions, to develop carbon-neutral VEOCEL viscose fibers. The company has also collaborated with Helsinki-based Suominen to produce the first carbon-neutral nonwoven, BIOLACE® Zero, utilizing VEOCEL lyocell fibers. Nonwoven roll-goods made with VEOCEL viscose fibers are available for Suominen’s clients, demonstrating the importance of collaboration in promoting sustainable product development within the nonwoven market.

Fiber Sustainability Focus

The fiber industry is investing in developments with a strong focus on sustainability. Companies like the those mentioned above, as well as many more, are laser-focused on these efforts, driving innovation and creating solutions that minimize environmental impact.

Through initiatives such as reducing CO 2 emissions, implementing life cycle assessments, promoting circularity, and using recycled materials, fiber companies are leaning towards a more sustainable future. As consumers and brands demand sustainable products and the demand for sustainable products continue to grow, the fiber industry plays a vital role in shaping a more environmentally friendly textile industry. TW

Artificial Muscle Fibers Could Artificial Muscle Fibers Could Serve as Cell Scaffolds I

In two new studies, researchers at Raleigh, N.C.-based North Carolina State University designed and tested a series of textile fibers that can change shape and generate force like a muscle. In the first study, the researchers focused on the materials’ influence on the artificial muscles’ strength and contraction length. The findings could help researchers tailor the fibers for different applications.

and science at NC State. “These were proof-of concept studies; ultimately, our goal is to see if we can study these fibers as a scaffold for stem cells, or use them to develop artificial organs in future studies.”

By Laura Oleniacz

In the second, proof-of-concept study, the researchers tested their fibers as scaffolds for live cells. Their findings suggest the fibers — known as “fiber robots” — could potentially be used to develop 3D models of living, moving systems in the human body.

“We found that our fiber robot is a very suitable scaffold for the cells, and we can alter the frequency and contraction ratio to create a more suitable environment for cells,” said Muh Amdadul Hoque, graduate student in textile engineering, chemistry

Researchers made the shapechanging fibers by encapsulating a balloon-like tube, made of a material similar to rubber, in a braided textile sheath. Inflating the interior balloon with an air pump makes the braided sheath expand, causing it to shorten.

The researchers measured the force and contraction rates of fibers made from different materials in order to understand the relationship between material and performance. They found that stronger, larger diameter yarns generated a stronger contraction force. In addition, they found that the material used to make the balloon impacted the magnitude of the contraction and generated force.

“We found that we could tailor the material properties to the

NC State University researchers designed and tested artificial muscle fibers as scaffolds for live cells.

NC State Wilson College of Textiles researchers Xiaomeng Fang and Muh Amdadul Hoque studying artificial muscle fibers.

Photo: Akanksha Pragya, NC State

required performance of the device,” said Xiaomeng Fang, assistant professor of textile engineering, chemistry and science at NC State. “We also found that we can make this device small enough so we can potentially use it in fabric formation and other textile applications, including in wearables and assistive devices.”

In a follow-up study, researchers evaluated whether they could use the shape-changing fibers as a scaffold for fibroblasts, a cell type found in connective tissues that help support other tissues or organs.

“The idea with stretching is to mimic the dynamic nature of how your body moves,” said Jessica Gluck, assistant professor of textile engineering, chemistry and science at NC State, and a study co-author.

They studied the cells’ response to the motion of the shape-changing fibers, and to different materials used in the fibers’ construction. They found the cells were able to cover and even penetrate the fiber robot’s braiding sheath. However, they saw decreases in the cells’ metabolic activity when the fiber robot’s contraction extended beyond a certain level, compared to a device made of the same material that they kept stationary.

The researchers are interested in building on the findings to see if they could use the fibers as a 3D biological model, and to investigate whether movement would impact cell differentiation. They said their model would be an advance over other existing experimental models that have been developed to show cellular response to stretching and other motion, since they can only move in two dimensions.

“Typically, if you want to add stretch or strain on cells, you would put them onto a plastic dish, and stretch them in one or two directions,” Gluck said. “In this study, we were able to show that in this 3D dynamic culture, the cells can survive for up to 72 hours.

“This is particularly useful for stem cells,” Gluck added. “What we

could do in the future is look at what could happen at the cellular level with mechanical stress on the cells. You could look at muscle cells and see how they’re developing, or see how the mechanical action would help differentiate the cells.”

The study, “Effect of Material Properties on Fiber-Shaped Pneumatic Actuators Performance” was published inActuatorson March 18. Emily Petersen was a co-author. The study was funded by start-up funding to Fang from the Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science at NC State.

The study, “Development of a Pneumatic-Driven Fiber-Shaped

Robot Scaffold for Use as a Complex 3D Dynamic Culture System” was published online inBiomimeticson April 21. In addition to Gluck, Hoque and Fang, co-authors included Nasif Mahmood, Kiran M. Ali, Eelya Sefat, Yihan Huang, Emily Petersen and Shane Harrington. The study was funded by the NC State Wilson College of Textiles and the Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry and Science and the Wilson College of Textiles Research Opportunity Seed Fund Program. TW

Researchers made shape-changing fibers by encapsulating a balloon-like tube in a braided textile sheath. Photo: Muh Amdadul Hoque

Editor’s Note: Laura Oleniacz is Public Communications Specialist at NC State News Services.

Bulletin Board

The Itihaas Co.™ recently introduced a collection of lifestyle and home goods including velvet and fringe throws,pillows and cushions.The designs are inspired by the brandowner’s childhood spent in India.

Spain-based Zara has partnered with Circ, Danville,Va.,to introduce a women’s capsule collection that was made using recycled polycotton blended textiles.

Pindler,Moorpark,Calif., recently introduced the Exclusive Linen Trim Collection,which features linen and linen-blend

trims in neutral and blue colorways.

Portland,Ore.-based Dovetail Workwear’s Ready Set Cargo Pant made using Cordura NYCO fabric from CORDURA® Advanced Fabrics,Kennesaw,Ga., was recognized by the Network Association of Uniform Manufacturers & Distributors with a 2023 Innovation Award in the fabric category.

Culp Inc.,High Point, N.C.,recently introduced Nanobionic®,a wellnessfocused upholstery collection that uses infrared technology to help the

human body restore and recharge while relaxing.

Wilmington,Del.-based DuPont recently introduced Kevlar® EXO™, a next-generation aramid fiber that offers lightweight and pliability for comfort with previously unavailable levels of ballistic protection,according to the company.

Trelleborg Engineered Coated Fabrics,Rutherfordton,N.C.,has signed a distribution agreement with MMI Textiles Inc., Brooklyn,Ohio,for TACTWEAR™ High Abrasion Neoprene Kevlar® (HANK).Customers may

now purchase TACTWEAR HANK from MMI Textiles in a variety of weights, colors and quantities.

The Advanced Textiles Association (ATA), Roseville,Minn.,recently debuted a redesigned website located at textiles.org.

Spartanburg,S.C.-based Milliken & Company was named to Forbes’ Best Employers for Diversity list for the second year in a row.

Lyndhurst,N.J.-based Lion Brand Yarn Co. is celebrating its 145th anniversary this year. TW

The San Francisco-based Apparel Impact Institute has named Claire Bergkamp to its board of directors.Bergkamp is CEO of the Textile Exchange.

Larry Radford was named dyehouse manager for Gastonia,N.C.-based Champion Thread’s new South Carolina-based thread and yarn dyeing facility.

Brooklyn,Ohio-based MMI Textiles Inc. has hired Bruce Dabbs as Technical Textile engineer. He is based in North Carolina for the company.

Joan Izzo has joined Apex Mills,Inwood,N.Y.,as senior marketing manager.

Four industry professionals recently were named as recipients of Lifetime Awards from the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), Cary,N.C. Jan O’Regan is the recipient of the Lifetime Service Award; and Seshadri Ramkumar, Jim Robinson and Ed Thomas all will be honored with the Lifetime Technical Achievement Award.Each honoree will receive their award in person at an upcoming INDA event.

New York City-based Designtex has named Oriana Reich vice president of marketing.

Patrick Cummings was named senior vice president and CFO of Motion Industries Inc., Birmingham,Ala.

INX International Ink Co., Schaumburg,Ill., has hired Paul Edwards to be the vice president of the Digital Division.

Avery Dennison reports Chairman and CEO Mitch Butier will become executive chairman of the board

of directors and current president and COO Deon Stander will become president and CEO,effective September 1,2023,as part of a succession plan.

Switzerland-based Archroma recently announced a CEO transition plan. Heike van de Kerkhof is stepping down to pursue other career opportunities and Mark Garrett will take on the role of interim CEO. The company’s board of directors has initiated a CEO search and will evaluate both internal and external candidates. TW

JULY

9-11 :2023 Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN) pro:Americas Conference,Eden Roc Hotel, Miami.Visit aapnetwork.net.

17-20 :World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference,organized by the Association of the Nonwovens Fabrics Industry (INDA) Atlanta Marriott Marquis,Atlanta.Visit worldofwipes.org.

17-18 :Wipes Academy,Atlanta Marriott Marquis,Atlanta.Visit inda.org.

19-20 :Furniture Manufacturing Expo, Hickory Metro Convention Center,Hickory,

N.C.Visit furnituremanufacturingexpo.com.

AUGUST

1-4 :Intermediate Nonwovens Training Course,organized by INDA,INDA Headquarters,Cary,N.C.Visit inda.org.

22-23 :Intermediate Nonwovens Training Course,organized by INDA,INDA Headquarters,Cary,N.C.Visit inda.org.

SEPTEMBER

12-14 :Fiber & Filament Extrusion Fundamentals,organized by INDA and the Nonwovens Institute (NWI),at NWI,NC State University,Raleigh,N.C.Visit inda.org.

21 :AAPN Dallas Regional,Haggar Clothing Co.,Farmer’s Branch,Texas. Visit aapnetwork.net.

26-27:RISE® 2023,the Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics conference,or ganized by INDA,Talley Student Union,Raleigh, N.C.Visit riseconf.net.

OCTOBER

10-12 :FiltXPO™ 2023,organized by INDA,Navy Pier,Chicago.Visit filtxpo.com.

26-27 :SYFAFall 2023 Conference, Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte,S.C.Visit thesyfa.org.

Artilect’s Darkstart Fusion jacket is protected from the rain with GTT’s environmentally friendly EMPEL™ DWR.

Fabric Of The

Quality Month

By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor

Green Theme Technologies’ EMPEL™ offers apparel brands like Artilect a sustainable, PFAS-free option for water repellency.

Mission Critical Mission Critical

BBrands often lead the way when it comes to sustainable textile products as they look to make the best products for the planet while satisfying consumer demands. Boulder, Colo.-based outdoor brand Artilect is one such company.

To demonstrate the treatment’s water repellence, EMPEL DWR has been tested in six-hour hurricane rain chamber tests as well as using the Bundesmann Water Repellency Tester to international test standard ISO 9865.

CONTACTS:

For more information about EMPEL™, contact Martin Flora, martin.flora@ greenthemetek.com; greenthemetek,com.

For more information about Artilect’s Darkstart Fusion jacket, visit artilect.studio/us/. Go online to TextileWorld.com

for archived Quality Fabric articles.

According to Artilect Founder Trent Bush, the company’s mission is to improve performance for both people and the planet at the same time. With this in mind, choosing a durable water repellent (DWR) for its outdoor clothing means choosing a per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)-free solution is of the utmost importance.

After researching available options, Artilect chose EMPEL™ from Green Theme Technologies Inc. (GTT), Rio Rancho, N.M., to protect products such as its Darkstart Fusion jacket, which is part of Artilect System’s (A/SYS) collection of apparel.

The EMPEL platform is built on the principles of clean chemistry, and in addition to being PFAS-free, also is a waterfree technology. GTT developed a curing pod to molecularly bond its patented chemistry to each fiber in a polymerization process. The large pressure-cooking vessels move the EMPEL monomer chemistry into the fibers where it is then cured using heat to create performance enhancing polymer chains. Once cured, the finish is stable and durable, and EMPEL easily lasts for 50 washes and beyond. “The finish does not appear to come off, and now we are trying to figure out how to test for life of garment,” said Martin Flora, GTT’s president of Global Business Development.

Despite coating the fibers in the chemistry, the treated fabrics are breathable, as well as soft and do not become stiff. EMPEL’s base chemistry uses components found in facial creams that act as a softening molecular lubricant to maintain this soft hand.

In addition, the DWR chemistry is compatible with any fabric construction type — woven, knit or nonwoven — and all man-made fibers such as nylon and polyester as well as natural fibers like cotton and wool. This flexibility in application means a broad range of garments from man-made-fiber-based technical garments to knitted hoodies and wool blazers can benefit from the technology.

GTT is focused on making a change in the way textiles are processed globally. “Our technology is a targeted solution that delivers better long-lasting performance to keep clothing working for a much longer period of time,” Flora emphasized.

Artilect currently is the largest partner of EMPEL based on the number of styles the brand offers that incorporate the technology. “I chose EMPEL because it is the only DWR solution that outperforms not only C0 DWRs, but also C6 or C8 chemistries,” Bush said. “The fact that it is PFAS-free is of course critical, and it allows us to follow our mission.” TW