the weed issue
NOW & THEN
May 2019
R21.50
HEALTH:
'Millennial Burnout': Not just another typical ‘snowflake’ issue
TRAVEL:
BEAUTY:
I Replaced My Entire Beauty Routine With Only CBD and Hemp Products
CULTURE:
Travel destinations where you can smoke weed around the world
12 Things From Millennial Culture That'll Probably Be Romanticized In 40 Years
FASHION & STYLE:
FOOD:
From the "Rachel" to the Wonderbra, Was 1994 the Best Style Year Ever?
Some of SA's most
iconic foods
Dabbling in weed could be good for democracy South Africa's 2019 Cannabis Expo PEOPLE:#30Under30: Creatives Category 2019
NOW & THEN HEALTH
the weed issue 8 THEN Stressed, depressed, or bewitched? A perspective on mental health, culture, and religion 19 NOW How it feels to have 'millennial burnout' Not just another typical ‘snowflake’ issue
26 THEN 6 Beauty Products From 1994 That Prove This Was The Most Influential Beauty Year Of The Decade 30 NOW Meet Young Entrepreneur Naledi Sibisi
35 WEED I Replaced My Entire Beauty Routine With Only CBD and Hemp Products
FASHION & STYLE
40 THEN From the "Rachel" to the Wonderbra, Was 1994 the Best Style Year Ever? 48 NOW Johannesburg: The Realities Behind Catering Fashion To South Africa's Millennial Consumer
52 WEED How cannabis has influenced fashion: A dose of history behind how cannabis became couture
CULTURE
72 THEN The way we used to travel: 7 ways travel has changed in the digital age 76 NOW How to CRUSH travel goals: a guide for millennials
82 WEED Travel destinations where you can smoke weed around the world
22 WEED Can CBD help treat depression?
BEAUTY
TRAVEL
58 THEN 15 Moments That Defined 1994 64 NOW 12 Things From Millennial Culture That'll Probably Be Romanticized In 40 Years
FOOD
84 THEN Trending South African Foods: History, Recipes And Preparation 87 NOW Some of South Africa’s most iconic foods
90 WEED SA restaurant chain cashes in on cannabis craze to offer dagga pizza
FEATURE
PEOPLE
92 WEED Dabbling in weed could be good for democracy
98 THEN Inside Kurt Cobain's Final Days Before His Suicide 102 NOW #30Under30: Creatives Category 2019
118 WEED Dagga: 3 influential South Africans who support marijuana legalisation
68 WEED What is 420: The Meaning Behind the Haziest Day of the Year 6 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 7 LETTERS FROM YOU
MAY 2019 4 |5
NOW & THEN Yes, we do actually hear you! Yup, this month’s edition of Now and Then is about what you think its about. Weed, dagga, pot, marijuana, cannabis; call it what ever you like. 4/20 has become known as the international weed smoking day. It is generally accepted that the origin of the phrase is from San Rafael in California. In 1971, a group of high school students used the code words “420 Louis” to arrange to be at 4:20 by a statue of Louis Pasteur and get high. It’s not quite certain if this is completely accurate, but the name has stuck since. As we do with each edition, we will be looking back on trends from now-a-days and years gone by. But, this time; we’ll take a look at how much of an influence weed is starting to have on our society. We won’t just be looking at weed as a recreational stimulant, but also as a natural substance that is contributing to the growth of many industries including fashion, health, beauty and entertainment. I must admit that I may have pushed harder than necessary to ensure that this topic became part of one of our monthly editions, but it came from the place of somebody who wants to understand more about the ways in which taboos are being deconstructed in our changing world today. As always, the aim of NOW & THEN is to reflect on our society and see if we are progressing or regressing. EDITOR IN CHIEF Thandi Wiltshire CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thandi Wiltshire
HEALTH writers: VikramPatel, Jane Mutambirwa, Sekai Nhiwatiwa, Radhika Sanghani, Jon Johnson images: Wikimedia Commons, BBC 3 Online, Today Online contributors: Rhiân, BBC 3 Online, Medical News Today Online, Alan Carter, PharmD BEAUTY writers: Helena Kim, Cleopatra Shava, Lindsey Unterberger images: Bustel Online, MAC Cosmetics Online, Joburg Online, Glamour Online contribuor : Naledi Sibisi FASHION & STYLE writers: Rita Kokshanian, Declan Eytan, Vienna Vernose images: Gareth Davies, Everett Collection, Ron Galella, Phil Dent, Stephen Lovekin, Tim Graham, Matte Nolim, Nkulueko Nzwanza, Mondadori Porfolio Corbis, J.P. Zachariasen, Kevin Mazur,Frazer Harrison, Brian Ach, Victor Virgile contributors: Jacquie Aiche, NBC Television, Universal, Yahoo News, Bulgari, Vetements, Catwalk King, NBCU, Palm Angels, Getty Images, Mission Pictures, MAC, Time & Life Pictures, Wire Image, Redferns, AFP, AFF, Public Domain Picture, Print Collector, Hulton Archives CULTURE writers: Emily Baker, Audry Worboys, Steven John images: Chris Jackson, Audrey Worboys, Jim Henson contributors:Pinterest, Zero Lab Online, NME Online, Beastie Boys Online, Virgin Media TV, Tumblr, Rolling Stone Online Twitter, Vanity Fair, Nickelodeon, Buzz Feed, Niantic, E!, Onceit, Reddit Online Disney, Urospoteko, Marvel, The Manual Online, Getty Images TRAVEL writers: Huff Post Online, Lindsey Dukes images: Huff Post Online, Flickr, Sascha Grant, Thomas Barwick, Andy
NOW & THEN
Here in Mzansi, in 2018 the Constitutional Court ruled that cannabis can be legally consumed by adults in a private setting. Although the various t’s and c’s that came with this ruling are rather hazy, it is legal none the less. But this ruling didn’t come without stumbling blocks along the way. In 2010, The Dagga Couple – Julian Stobbs and Myrtle Clarke – brought the topic of majuana legalisation into the spotlight. The couple were arrested for possession and dealing. What became known as the Trial of the Plant led to Constitutional Court Judge Zondo ruling that the prohibition of the personal use, possession and cultivation of Cannabis in a private space was unconstitutional. This opened up the conversation about majuana and it became more acceptable to talk about in the main-stream media. This is not only happening on a local level but also on the global stage as majurana is becoming less stigmatized. This conversation is one that includes South African’s across different races, forms of employment and social status. So buckle up for an edition of nostalgia with a bit of a kick! For those of you who have turned your nose up at this month’s topic, please don’t pretend that you don’t have these lyrics stuck in your head: “…I was gonna clean my room until I got high. I gonna get up and find the broom but then I got high my room is still messed up and I know why – ‘cause I got high, cause I got high, cause I got high...” But for those of you who sing that song loudly and proudly, I guess this edition is for you. Enjoy responsibly! Crawford, Eric Audras, Lolly Knit, Daily Hive Online contributors: HuffPost, Tooga, Life Supercharger, Flickr, Getty Images, Under 30 Experiences Online, Mapped Global Correspondent, Daily Hive Online FOOD writer: Henry Drex images: Buzz South Africa Online, Eat Out Online, Times Live Online contributors: Buzz South Africa Online, Eat Out Online, Times Live Online FEATURE writer: Ruan Jooste images: Sabina Mexicanna Online contrubutor: Gallo Images PEOPLE writers: Brad Witter, Karen Mwendera, Tom Head images: Paul Bergen, Motlabana Monnakgotla contrinutors: Redferns, FORBES AFRICA, Rophnan Nuri, Henry Amponsah, Austin Malema, Harmony Katulondi, Kapasa Musonda, Richard Akuson, Menzi Mcunu, Trevor Stuurman, Damini Ogulu, Kim Jayde, Petite Noir, Aisha Baker, Karungari Mungari, Gilmore Moyo, Boitumelo Thulo, Herman Kamate, Helen Chukwu, Luis Munana, Upile Chisla, Joseph Awuah-Darko, Joe Nawaya, Thando Thabethe, Rich Fumani Mnisi, Kevin Njue, Maya Wegerif, Sarah Owusu, Abisola Akntunde, Yaa Brsu, Paola Audrey Ndengue, The South African Online ADVERTISING ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Thandi Wiltshire CONTACT www.nowandthen.com (+27) 21 714 5554 nowandthen@gmail.com OFFICE Cape Town, Thandi Wiltshire, Account Director, First Floor, 114 Loop Street, Cape Town, 8001 ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES (+27) 21 714 2539 nowandthenmedia@gmail.com
Last month's issue of Now & Then talked about the strained relationship between generations. One of the articles mentioned the 'OK Boomer' meme. As a millennial, I find it very interesting to see how different generations react to the world around them. It saddened me to see that we don't often take the time to look at our similarities, but rather focus on our differences. It seems to be somewhat of a double standard as older generations deem it completely acceptable to lable us as 'Snowflakes', but as soon as we react in a similar way, we are accused of hate speech. Amber McGregor a confused snowflake
After reading last month's edition, I have really started to change the way that I look at and interact with different generations. I was able to see how our words can be hurtful to the generations before us. Amongst my friends, my opinion is unpopular, but I always think of if I would like somebody to treat my grandparents like that. Honestly, I wouldn't like it. So I have to agree with the older generations who are offened by the 'OK Boomer' slur. Unathi Khumalo a sympathetic millennial
MAY 2019 6 |7
Stressed, depressed, or bewitched?
A perspective on mental health, culture, and religion VikramPatel, Jane Mutambirwa, and Sekai Nhiwatiwa - 1993
Source: Wikimedia Commons
NOW & THEN
M
ental illness is an important cause of disability in sub-Saharan African countries and is rarely covered in health-related development activity. This article examines the close relationship between mental illness, religion, and culture, referring to the authors’ experiences in Zimbabwe as an example. They emphasise the importance of gaining a sympathetic understanding of the religious beliefs and social contexts of psycho-social distress states, rather than simply translating concepts and ideas developed in the societies of Europe and North America. Mental illness, in its broadest sense, is one of the commonest afflictions affecting the human race. The World Bank report on health and development (1993), though criticised for the unreliability of some of its data, identified `neuropsychiatric’ disease as the second-most important non- communicable cause of disability in the developing world (Blue and Harpham, 1994). Of these diseases, depression was the single most important diagnosis. The report emphasises an aspect of health which is intimately related to a community’s overall health status and development, and which has been ignored by development agencies and Health Ministries faced with the pressing claims of communicable diseases and the health problems of mothers and children. However, it is impossible to separate the mental and spiritual components of health from physical illness, in particular when dealing with chronic illness and maternal and child health problems. It is likely, and desirable, that future health-related development work will, and should, include mental health among its priorities. With this future in mind, we focus in this article on the close relationship between mental health, culture, and religion. We hope to inform those who are involved in mental-health services in sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) of the problems caused by simply translating concepts and ideas developed in the very different societies of Western Europe and North America (referred to as `Euro-American’ in this article), whence the bulk of development funds originate. Instead, we will attempt to show that community health problems and service delivery must involve understanding and assisting those with mental-health problems from within the context of their own society. Although we focus on SSA nations, because of our personal experiences in Zimbabwe, we believe that much of what applies to these settings may apply to other less developed countries also. The article begins with a description of what is meant by the term `mental illness’ and moves on to examining some of the ways in which culture and religion influence mental illness. We end with our views on how culturally appropriate mental-health services should be developed. What is mental illness? It is of great importance for all health and development workers to recognise that the term `mental illness’ does not refer to a homogeneous group of problems, but rather to a number of different types of disorder. It is even more important to recognise that, although every society has people it views as mentally ill, the use and construction of this concept may vary considerably from one society to another. The group of disorders most often associated with mental illness are the psychotic and affective disorders, such as schizophre-
HEALTH nia and mania. There is little doubt that such severe disturbances, which affect virtually all aspects of a person’s mental and behaviourallife, are recognised in most cultures and societies in SSA (Patel, 1995). It is this group of disorders which occupies so much of the time and financial resources of mental-health services in Euro-American societies and for which psychiatric drug treatments have proven to be of considerable value. Despite the powerful evidence of a genetic role in the aetiology of these disorders, the environment plays at least as great a role in determining the course and outcome. For instance, schizophrenia seems to have a better outcome in developing countries, despite the fact that mental-health services are underdeveloped in these very settings. In other words, even though Europe and North America have extensive mental health and social-welfare services, people with schizophrenia fare worse in those countries than those in India or Nigeria. Recognising that the course of even the most `medical’ of all mental illnesses is so profoundly influenced by socioenvironmental factors gives cause for concern to those who wish to recreate a mental health service modelled on the Euro- American system of health care, without evaluating the possible therapeutic ingredients already existing in some SSA societies, such as the role of the extended family and traditional treatments. Another group of disorders classified by Euro-American psychiatry as mental illnesses has been historically called the neuroses. These disorders may be thought of as exaggerated forms of normal reactions to stressful events. Thus, anxiety, depression, and physical symptoms in the absence of a physical disease are experienced by many people in response to stressful events, and in neuroses these experiences become more intense and often out of proportion to the stressors (Gelder et al., 1983). Over time, such problems have been conceptualised as mental illnesses, not least because of the Cartesian dichotomy which for over a century has influenced thinking in the field of bio-medicine (by which we mean modern Western medicine, based on the principles of the natural sciences). This dichotomy holds that the body and mind are distinct. Although contemporary health practitioners are encouraged to consider the integrated role of both mind and body in their patients, if patients present with symptoms for which there are no corresponding physical signs or findings, many practitioners will conclude that they must be mentally ill. As psychiatry and its allied professions have evolved in the North, such vague and poorly defined illness entities have become reified into precise categories; the latest WHO classification of mental disorders includes no fewer than 60 categories of illnesses previously classified as neuroses, including phobias, anxiety disorders, and mild depressions (WHO, 1992). Neurotic disorders are the common- est group of mental illnesses and are particularly common in primary care and community settings; recent studies in Zimbabwe suggest that up to a quarter of clinic attenders may be distressed. In this article, we refer to this group of problems as psycho-social distress because, as we will discuss later, referring to them as a mental illness is fraught with conceptual problems. There are several other areas of health problems in which
MAY 2019 8 |9
HEALTH psychiatry has claimed an expertise, including childhood problems such as conduct disorders, abuse, and mental handicap; the abuse of substances such as alcohol and drugs; mental disorders associated with HIV infection; and the psychological consequences of violence and trauma. While each type of disorder has its own unique characteristics, there are some common features such as, for example, the influence of adverse socio-economic events on these disorders as well. Thus, many of the general points made in this article would apply to these disorders. Religion, culture, and mental illness These are complex issues which have been of great interest to anthropologists, and more recently to mental health professionals. Within the scope of this article, we will focus on some areas to illustrate how religious and cultural factors are intimately related to mental illness in the community. While we recognise that culture and religion are complex and dynamic concepts, in focusing on the relationship between mental illness and culture and religion in this article, we have taken a unitary, and perhaps simplistic, view of these concepts. Concepts of mental illness The medical speciality of psychiatry has its roots in Euro-American professional views of mental illness. This is vividly demon- strated by WHO classifications of mental illness, which, though purporting to be `international’, dismiss illness types described in non-Euro-American cultures as either `culture-bound’ or not even worthy of recognition (Patel and Winston, 1994). The commonest neurotic disorders, in this classification, are depression and anxiety. Patients in Euro-American societies increasingly understand that concepts such as `depression’ relate to a state of psychological distress. Over time, the health worker and patient acquire similar explanatory models for the distress state. In many SSA societies such disorders are recognised as being distress states, but are not understood in the same way: the concepts used to understand and explain their causes and nature may differ widely. Thus, similar states of distress evoke recognition from the local community and health workers in Harare, but the causes are perceived as closely linked to the interaction of social, economic, and spiritual problems (see below) afflicting the person (Patel et al., 1995). The same concept, semantically translated, can be elicited in this and other societies, but may mean something quite different; for example, rather than being viewed as a mental problem, it may reflect the patients’ assessment of their socio- economic and spiritual state. The difficulties in translating even basic concepts are illustrated by our experience with an apparently simple question, asking patients about any previous history of emotional or mental illness. In Euro-American societies, a substantial proportion of people would understand this to include depression, anxiety, or indeed many stressful situations which resulted in their consulting a health worker. It was virtually impossible to translate the question adequately into the Shona language, without giving the impression that we were dealing either with `madness’ (and thus alienating most of our patients) or `stress’ (which many of them experience, owing to adverse socio-economic cicumstances).
NOW & THEN
This is a seemingly trivial example, but it represents the very heart of the issue of mental health and development. It is for this reason that we refer to neurotic mental disorders as psycho-social distress states. In many societies, then, such distress states are not viewed from a medical standpoint. If depression is not considered to be a `mental illness’ (as psychiatry understands it), then should we attempt to change the entire meaning of the term, so that it conforms to the dominant Euro-American paradigm? Is there any evidence to suggest that the `medicaliing’ of such distress states, as opposed to the application of socio-spiritual models, has produced any significant benefit to patients? While recognising that the fundamental experience of a distress state is universal to all humans, we believe that the contextual meaning of the distress is of singular importance. Such meanings should be respected and understood, rather than referring to an imposed foreign model to explain the problem. One area which illustrates the complex interaction of personal misfortune, religious beliefs, and cultural values is that of witch- craft. Although witchcraft is outlawed in many African societies, beliefs in its power remain alive, and sociologists have argued that such belief systems help to make misfortune understandable (Chavunduka, 1994). From a Euro-American perspective, what does feeling bewitched mean? Can it be reduced to a psychiatric `symptom’? Or is this belief a way that some communities have developed to explain why life has its difficult moments? Should the diverse and unproven psycho-theories of the North, like psycho-analysis and general systems theory, be imposed on other cultures? Idioms of psycho-social distress Beyond these broad concepts is the issue of idioms used by people in psychosocial distress. A fundamental difference between mental health and physical health is that, in assessing mental health, one relies almost entirely on what a person tells the health worker. Language becomes the very essence of expressing distress, and emotional terms such as `sadness’ and `fear’ cannot be translated without examining the overall context of the use of these terms in a community (Lutz, 1985). Idioms like `feeling sad’ have gradually become professionalised by medical personnel into `symptoms’ and then taken one step further into becoming `criteria’ for specific types of `mental illness’. This process is intimately related to the historical evolution of conceptualising human distress in Euro-American culture. However, much mental-health research and development in SSA societies has assumed that the idioms of mental-health problems as defined in Euro-American settings can be applied simply by a semantic translation of terms. The following examples show how this approach may confound the process of interpreting the manifestations of psycho- social distress in different cultures. The idiom of `hopelessness’ is central to the Euro-American model of depression, and questions such as `Do you have hope for the future?’ are often asked of the patient. However, in the context of Buddhist cultures in Sri Lanka, Obeysekere argues that a negative answer to this question indicates not `a depressive, but a good Buddhist’. Thus, `hopelessness lies in the nature of the world, and salvation lies in understanding and overcoming that hopelessness’
(Obeysekere, 1985). In this context, then, eliciting the idiom of hopelessness would yield positive responses, but the contextual meaning of the term is very different. In the Shona language, the term for sadness is kusuwa. This term not only implies personal sorrow and grief, but is also used in the context of describing an emotional state which is a prerequisite for sympathy, empathy, and reaching out for help and is, in this context, a positive emotion. Another example is the spiritual experiential events which occur in many religious movements in African societies. Thus, hearing or feeling the Holy Spirit, feeling that the ancestral spirits wish to come out or express themselves, or sensations of being possessed by such spirits are not only commonplace among members of some religious groups, but indeed are highly valued personal experiences. If mental-health workers are unaware of the contexts of these experiences, they may see them as symptoms of a mental illness. Priests, prophets, and psychiatrists: what do people do when in distress? In Zimbabwe, religion is inseparable from health, and this relationship applies to both traditional and Christian religions. First, let us consider the relationship of traditional medicine and religion. Traditional medical practices of the indigenous people have a religious foundation, based on local views on the creation of humankind, the life cycle, concepts of growth and development, and the purpose of life in the Creator’s scheme of things. In Zimbabwe, and many other sub-Saharan African societies, there are extensive beliefs in a spiritual world inhabited by ancestral, alien, clan, and evil spirits. These beliefs play an important role in guiding people when they are distressed (Mutambirwa, 1989). Traditional healers are recognised by many as being able to heal the sick, by virtue of their intimate knowledge of herbal medicines and their special ability to be possessed by or communicate with spirits. When seen in a Euro-American context, traditional healers assume many roles, including those of a priest, a legal adviser, a social worker, and a counsellor (Staugard, 1985). Christianity is the most popular denomination of organised religion in Zimbabwe. The origins of Christianity are historically linked with the colonisation of this region. Christian missionaries believed that traditional religion was pagan. Since beliefs in spiritual causation were inextricably interwoven with misfortune and illness, traditional medicine was also unacceptable. The repression of traditional beliefs by missionaries, in collusion with the colonial administration, led to large numbers of people taking up the Christian faith and being taught to shun traditional healers. Many Zimbabweans today claim Christianity as their main religion, but in practice, many such Christians continue to believe in the power of witchcraft and of their ancestral spirits and see little conflict between these beliefs and official Church doctrine (Bourdillon, 1987). Furthermore, Christianity is practised in this region in diverse ways, with a wide range of `indep- endent’, Pentecostal, and Evangelicalchurches, some of which syncretise Christianity and indigenous religious beliefs. It is not uncommon to see charismatic pastors, in particular from the Apostolic churches, who assume the role of a spiritual healer and heal the sick with the power of the Holy Spirit, make prophecies for the future, and encourage the congregation to join in spiritual experiences,
including trance states and speaking in incomprehensible `tongues’. Interestingly, some Apostolic churches shun both `scientific’ and traditional medicine, relying instead on the Prophets and faith- healers within their church for healing. The dichotomy between `scientific’ and traditional medicine is rooted in the frequently held belief that bio-medicine is superior when applied to physical and bodily aspects of health, by virtue of prescriptions of scientifically prepared medicines, oper- ative procedures, investigations, and hospitalisations. On the other hand, traditional healing and faith-healing are often viewed as providing a holistic healthcare service. Thus, health problems associated with the physical body as well as with the mind-soul and the social and spiritual environments are healed (Chavunduka, 1978). While psycho- social distress states have become medicalised and in Euro-American society are increasingly treated by a growing legion of mental-health workers ranging from counsellors to psychiatrists, in Zimbabwe and many other SSA societies these distress states are often inextricably linked to spiritual and social factors. In keeping with these beliefs, a significant number of people suffering from psycho-social problems consult religious leaders such as pastors, priests, prophets, and traditional healers in search of emotional relief. Helping people with psycho-social problems In Euro-American society, theories to explain personal distress have moved from the spiritual realms to the psycho-analytical realms and, more recently, to a host of new theories including cognitive, behavioural, systemic, social, and interpersonal theories. Each of these conceptualises distress states or illness categories according to certain theoretical postulates, which are then extended to actual therapeutic interventions to alleviate the distress. Success with such a therapy is then used as a validator of the theory itself. One example of such a therapy which has gained prominence in Euro- American society is cognitive therapy, in particular for depressive states. Like many contemporary approaches, it emphasises the personal responsibility of the patient in attaining the cure. Cognitive theory postulates that the fundamental problem in conditions which manifest as depression or anxiety is maladaptive thinking. The treatment is aimed at assisting the individual to recognise the maladaptive nature of his or her thinking and then attempt to change this. This theory is firmly rooted in the introspective individualism of the North, and is in sharp contrast to the `external’ models of distress in communities in SSA. To date, we are not aware of any studies attempting to evaluate the effectiveness of these psychotherapeutic models in SSA. Furthermore, it is well recognised that one of the most powerful predictors of response to psychotherapy is the `congruence’ or sharing of models of illness by therapist and patient, so that those patients who are `psychologically minded’ are the ones most likely to respond. We would argue that the same principle may be applied to other cultures, so that therapies whose theoretical models are congruent for patients and healers are likely to be successful: spiritual rituals, for example, are likely to be effective for spiritual problems. This, of course, would be at odds with trying to change
MAY 2019 10|11
HEALTH the patient’s view of the problem so as to suit an alternative, often imported model used by the therapist. One example from Shona culture is the behavioural state of kutanda botso. This state, which is characterised by a person wandering away from home dressed in rags and begging, may be seen to be similar to the psychiatric category of `brief reactive psychosis’. However, it is often a tradition- ally sanctioned ritual to cleanse a person who has committed a grievous social crime such as striking his or her parents. By adopting such a vagrant role, perpetrators will absolve their misdeeds and correct the spiritual imbalance caused by their actions. Is family therapy, as prescribed by Euro- American practitioners, superior to this form of traditional treatment? Or is the increasing use of `therapy’ as a judicial recommendation for people who break social codes and laws, such as sexual offenders in the North, in fact an analogy to Shona sanctions? Many imported models employ techniques which are not culturally acceptable to patients in other societies. For example, many patients expect to be told what to do to alleviate their distress, and the role of the silent facilitator, typical of some Euro-American psycho-therapies, may be inappropriate in many counselling situations. This is clearly evoked by the `guru-chela’ relationship between counsellor and patient described in India, in which the psycho-therapeutic relationship mimics that between a teacher and student, with emphasis on the counsellor providing direct advice and guidance to the patient. Indeed, dependence on others in the Indian context is a desirable state of existence and does not have the negative connotation which it carries in Euro-American society (Saxena, 1994). Developing appropriate mental health services We have demonstrated some of the ways in which culture and religion are profoundly intertwined with mental health and illness. In this section, we consider how mental services may be developed in a manner which is culturally appropriate. Most development activity in mental health imitates Euro-American models of illness and health-care delivery. These ignore the contextual meaning of such culturally defined terms and categories of illness and the role played by `non- professionals’ in the alleviation of distress. When seeking to fund or provide new services, agencies concentrate their efforts on creating new positions of counsellors and on training them in methods of counselling developed in altogether different settings. All too often, this is done without examining what was already happening in the particular setting, as if people with psycho-social problems were previously unattended to. Development activity catering to vulnerable groups of individuals, such as refugees or HIV-infected people, identifies counselling as one of the ways of alleviating their distress. However, it remains unclear whether this has involved working with the pre-existing network of `informal’ counsellors. In Zimbabwe, it appears that some of the counselling approaches mimic imported methods, such as systematic therapy, and employ counsellors with a professional background modelled on Euro-American health-care approaches. Only rarely does one encounter any published, structured evaluation of the impact of these counselling techniques on
NOW & THEN
the life of the patient. It seems that this issue is often taken for granted, under the assumption that if it works in Euro-American society, then it must do so in other societies. In this context, we wish to point out that `cultural spectacles’ affect not only Euro- American workers but also growing numbers of people in SSA, who, by virtue of education and/or religion modelled on Euro- American societies, are equally in conflict with the majority of their kin. For example, professional `scientific’ medicine has taken firm root throughout the world, and its practitioners in Zimbabwe, though them- selves coming from a society with rich and extensive beliefs in ancestral spirits, will often suppress these traditional beliefs because of the dismissive attitude taken by what is historically a Euro-American discipline of health care. Such health workers, though integrated within the bio-medical approach to health delivery, are not necessarily representative spokespeople for the community at large. A very recent example of this is an epidemic of measles which led to the deaths of several children from a particular Apostolic church whose congreg- ation shun bio-medical treatment and immunisation. Most policy makers and health workers in the medical services were appalled by this apparent neglect by the parents, but they were oblivious to the power of religion and culture in influencing treatment choices in Zimbabwe. The close bonds between religion, culture, and mental health in many societies in SSA have important lessons for development and health workers involved in mental-health care. In attempting to provide mental-health services, including counselling, to any population, development funds should be targeted at what the culture finds acceptable and workable, rather than trying to recreate a Northern model. The first step must be to get a close understanding of the religious beliefs and social structure of the society and to investigate the pre-existing network of informal counsellors. Research into the nature and cause of psycho-social distress is an essential prerequisite to delivering services. Collaboration with local health workers from professional backgrounds akin to those of their Euro-American colleagues must be extended to local priests, traditional healers, village chiefs, and community workers selected by the community. For any mental-health initiative to be successful, it must reach out to the ordinary person and must be sensitive to his or her world-view. And most important, one must refrain from imposing an invalid foreign category, since this will only alienate the people it is meant to help. We need to understand what the community means by mental health and illness, its priorities in mental-health care, what it believes are the ways in which such problems can be tackled, and so on. Idioms of distress need to be generated from the language of the people, rather than relying on simple translations from a foreign language. There is little doubt that many themes of distress are universal to humanity, but it is equally important to recognise those characteristics of distress unique to a particular community. Any intervention must be evaluated from the context of the individual and the health-care worker. New measures, such as the Shona version of the WHO Quality of Life Instrument (Kuyken et al., 1994) and the Shona Symptom Question- naire (Patel et al., 1994) may be used to evaluate counselling and other interventions for
psycho-social distress. The influence of religion and culture on mental health is being recognised in Euro- American society, where increasing numbers of professionals are writing about the need to recognise the spiritual dimension of a person’s health (Cox, 1994; Sims, 1994). We would go further in stating that this dimension is important not just for mental health, but for physical illness as well, in particular for severe illnesses such as AIDS, for which medical treatments remain unaffordable, unavailable, or ineffective. These spiritual dimensions are rarely accessible to bio-medically trained health workers, who should admit this and allow open access to such patients by religious and traditional healers. This already happens in facilities for terminally ill and psychiatric patients in Europe and North America (Stephens, 1994). Ironically, in societies where spirituality and health are inextricably linked, health workers seem to resist this need of their patients. Conclusions Mental illness is a significant cause of disability in the development world and has been largely ignored in health-related development activity. In many SSA societies, the impact of economic structural adjustment in impoverishing the people, the breakdown of traditional community and family
relationships caused by urban migration, and the devastating effect of AIDS are likely to cause an even greater impact on the psycho-social health of individuals. There is abundant evidence that most of these problems are not adequately dealt with in Government-funded primary health-care settings. In such a situation, our most urgent message is that mental health needs to be firmly on the agenda of development activity. It is important to recognise that mental illness as defined in Euro-American society does not translate with the same contextual meaning in many African countries. Thus, what is often regarded as a mental illness is to be found in the broader realms of socio-spiritual problems, which we prefer to call psycho- social distress. Such distress is intimately related to a community’s overall sense of well-being and development, to its economic strength, to its network of social and spiritual relationships, and to the indigenous health carers and religious leaders in that community. In delivering mental-health services, development activity should recognise these important interactions between mental health, culture, and religion.
MAY 2019 12|13
HEALTH
How it feels to have 'millennial burnout' Not just another typical ‘snowflake’ issue Rhiân, 28 As told to Radhika Sanghani -2019
Source: BBC 3 Online Rhiân, 28 don’t remember the last time I relaxed. Honestly? I don’t know how to. Every time I try to read a book or watch TV, I think about what I have to do next, or my ‘to-do’ list flashes before my eyes. I feel guilty because I know that I could be cleaning my flat, or at the gym, or buying a birthday present for my boyfriend’s mum. My brain never stops. I’m constantly on hyper-alert about the things I should be doing – but just can’t bring myself to do. I already suffer from anxiety and depression, and this stress has disrupted my sleep and led me to have mild insomnia. I think I’m one of many in my generation suffering from ‘millennial burnout’. This is not currently a recognised medical condition, and there are no specific stats for it, but in the UK, 74% of us are so stressed we’ve been unable to cope. That same study found that 49% of 18-24-year-olds who have experienced high levels of stress felt that comparing themselves to others was a source of stress, which was higher than in any of the older age groups. This is essentially burnout - a state of chronic stress that leads to physical and emotional exhaustion. The idea that millennials are experiencing a specific type of ‘burnout’ was first popularised by BuzzFeed writer Anne Helen Petersen. Her much-shared article on the subject
I
points to the fact that the line between work and life is so blurred for many of us that there is no work-life balance anymore. Plus, we’re online 24/7, so we’re always expected to be available, whether it’s work emails, social messages, or looking for love. It doesn’t even stop on holiday. Her article provoked a wide-ranging response, which she edited down into a follow-up piece. Anne Helen believes one of the biggest signs you're suffering from this is ‘errand paralysis’, where minor tasks such as going to the bank or returning an online order just feel impossible. “None of these tasks were that hard,” she wrote. “It’s not as if I were slacking in the rest of my life. But when it came to the mundane, the medium priority, the stuff that wouldn’t make my job easier or my work better, I avoided it. The more I tried to figure out my errand paralysis, the more the actual parameters of burnout began to reveal themselves… It’s not limited to workers in acutely high-stress environments. And it’s not a temporary affliction: It’s the millennial condition.” This is something I fully relate to. My job is a big priority for me, and I put a lot of pressure on myself to work hard. It means I'm always on – replying to emails at all hours, and bringing my work laptop home at night. But while I'm doing well in my career, my personal life admin is a mess. I have endless to-do lists that I never
MAY 2019 18|19
HEALTH
Source: BBC 3 Online complete. Recently, I even made a list of lists and sectioned it off into the different rooms of my flat, with a weekly list of chores to do by each room. Then I have a list of appointments I need to make, and a shopping list I know I’ll never buy half the stuff on, like ingredients to make packed lunches for the week in order to save money. I often send myself reminder emails the night before I get into work, so when I’m at my desk, they’re at the top of my inbox. It’s my way of trying to stay in control of my spiralling life admin, but when I end up not doing the things on my list, I’m left feeling even more overwhelmed. Then I bury my head in the sand so I don’t have to think about everything I’m not doing - and end up less productive than before. It’s a vicious circle. And it’s about more than about making lists. I tend to break my life up into compartments: work, relationship, friends, and family. I want to give all of them equal attention, but I can’t do that because there just isn't enough time, so then I feel stressed, guilty, and permanently tired. I overcommit constantly but always manage to make my deadlines with work. The sacrifices are more in my social life where I’ve ended up having to cancel nights out last minute and let down friends who end up angry and disappointed. It’s affecting all areas of my life and I just don’t see an end in sight. This is the main symptom of ‘millennial burnout’, according to British psychotherapist Beverley Hills. While the condition isn’t medically recognised, Hills says it is something she has seen in her clients. “You can feel stress, insomnia, self-doubt, cynicism, and as though you're in a void, like, ‘How can I possibly succeed when there are not enough resources left for me?’ There will be emotional exhaustion, a feeling of dissatisfaction, inadequacy, and also anger, and maybe physical pain that could take the form of Fibromyalgia or constant feelings of ‘unwellness'," she says. She believes that this burnout can be brought on by “over-expectations from parents, careers, and society”. It’s
exacerbated by social media because of the constant pressure to be living your best life, which “leads to a fear of failure and, conversely, a fear of success: 'If I achieve all that, how can I possibly keep it up? I may as well not even try'." In extreme situations, she says it can even lead to depression or suicidal thoughts, and urges people experiencing millennial burnout to seek medical help like counselling. For me, one of the hardest parts about millennial burnout is that I don’t feel I’m ‘allowed’ to be this tired. I don’t think I’ve earned it or done enough to warrant having burnout. I always compare myself to my mum, who was a single mother working two or three jobs at a time to raise me and my siblings in Wales. I always think, 'How could my mum work all these jobs, cook for us, clean, have all our school uniforms ironed and never complain?' Then I feel worse for whining. But, at the same time, things have changed for our generation. We've internalised the idea that we need to be working all the time, and that being average is no longer enough; we have to always be achieving. Plus, our lives are a lot more 'out there' for everyone to see with social media. My mum had no one to prove to on a daily basis that she was keeping us alive, and that we had the latest toy or computer game. She’s really sympathetic to what I’m going through, and obviously worried about me, but sometimes talking to her makes me feel worse because I can’t help comparing myself unfavourably to her. The idea of what a successful career should look like has also changed for my generation. It used to be about earning a decent salary, but now it feels like we need to do that as well as have a cool, exciting job you’re passionate about. It’s the same with being healthy. For my mum, that meant eating three balanced meals and having clean clothes. For us, that means going to the gym at 5am, doing a run post-work to get cardio in, eating kale at every possible opportunity, and cleansing my skin all the time or I’ll get wrinkles. It’s all about being hyper-healthy, hyper-clued-up, hyper-fashionable - and it’s exhausting. Last year, I felt so bad that I thought I was going to have a
breakdown. I’d been feeling burnt out for months, and with my to-do list growing as much as my stress levels, I wasn’t coping well. I could barely get out of bed or motivate myself to do the simplest of tasks. I was constantly stressed, and I didn’t feel like myself at all. I was snapping at my boyfriend, because I had no emotional energy left to give – I was so focused on trying to get through the day. He was worried about me because I wasn’t myself, and I even had physical symptoms: my skin broke out with acne for the first time and became flushed with the skin condition rosacea. I was constantly sweating, because I was on hyper-alert - waiting for the next thing to worry about. Eventually, I booked an appointment to see my doctor and told him I felt like I was about to break. He said my anxiety and depression symptoms were exacerbated by feeling burnout, and suggested I take some time off for my mental health. I wasn’t surprised by his diagnosis, but the thought of being allowed to stop was such a relief. I took a few weeks off work where I had absolutely nothing to do. I still had my to-do lists going round in my head, and felt like I needed to make the most of my time off, but I was also so exhausted that I just slept. In the end, the time off helped, but a year later, the burnout still hasn’t gone away. I'm now looking into therapy as my doctor suggested - even though that’s now a new source of stress as I’m struggling to find an affordable one. I'm also doing a lot of reading up on how to manage stress. My go-to is to flare up in an argument with my boyfriend because I’m so on edge, but I don’t want to be like that, so I’m trying to find other ways of channelling how I’m feeling
Source: BBC 3 Online instead, like doing creative writing. I’m also trying to see more of my friends and talk to them about what I’m going through, because I know a lot of them feel the same way. Last year, I spent a lot of time staying at home trying to get through my lists, and felt guilty about going for beers with my friends and wasting money. But now I need to remind myself that being with people helps because it makes me feel less alone, and it takes me out of my head. I know a lot of people think this is another typical ‘millennial snowflake’ issue. But the world changes and generations adapt. I know life was also difficult for our parents and grandparents, with a lot more hard graft, but things are tough now in different ways. If previous generations knew what I went through on a daily basis, they wouldn’t think of millennials as lazy and entitled. We’re just trying to do our best, and often, it's harder than it looks.
"It’s affecting all areas of my life and I just don’t see an end in sight"
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 20|21
HEALTH
Can CBD help treat depression? Cannabidiol, or CBD, is a natural compound that has gained popularity in recent years, thanks in part to a growing body of research into its potential health benefits, which may include treating depression. The initial results of some studies into CBD and depression look promising.
CBD could be useful in treating depression, as it appears to have a positive interaction with serotonin receptors in the brain. Source: Medical News Today Online Jon Johnson Reviewed by Alan Carter, PharmD BD is one of over 100 compounds called cannabinoids, which are found in the plant Cannabis sativa. While CBD is similar to tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the two compounds act differently in the body. THC is responsible for the feelings of euphoria, or the "high," that a person experiences while using cannabis. CBD does not have these effects on the body — it does not cause a high or feelings of euphoria. In this article, learn about the potential for CBD to help relieve the symptoms of depression. CBD may not be right for everyone, and there are some other things to consider before using CBD treatment for any condition. CBD for depression CBD could be useful in treating depression, as it appears to have a positive interaction with serotonin receptors in the brain. Depression and anxiety disorders are common mental health conditions that can have lasting effects on a person's health, social life, ability to work, and overall well-being. A doctor may prescribe pharmaceutical drugs to help a person treat or manage depression. Many of these drugs have difficult side effects, such as mood swings, sleeplessness, and sexual dysfunction. CBD has shown promise in initial studies as a treatment for both depression and anxiety, and it may cause fewer side effects in some people. The findings of research from 2014 may help explain why CBD could be useful in treating depression. They indicate
C
NOW & THEN
that, in most studies, CBD appears to have a positive interaction with serotonin receptors in the brain. Serotonin impacts a range of functions in the body, including a person's emotional state and feelings of well-being or happiness. Keeping serotonin levels balanced is often a key therapy for people with depression. What the research says Testing in animal models has provided some evidence for the use of CBD to help treat depression. According to the authors of the 2014 review, results from a variety of studies indicate that CBD appears to act as an antidepressant and antianxiety compound in animal models of depression. Authors of a review from 2018 also noted that many studies have shown the anti-stress and antidepressant activity of CBD in animal models. The compound exhibits a clear anti-stress effect after short- or long-term use. In certain tests, CBD acted as an antidepressant. The authors also found that the compound worked without activating the brain's endocannabinoid receptors directly, which may indicate that there is less risk of CBD becoming habit-forming, or addictive. This is important because many people are concerned about the habit-forming potential of antidepressants and cannabis compounds. In a study from 2018, researchers indicated that CBD has promise as a fast-acting antidepressant. Most researchers conducting animal studies of CBD call for more direct research in humans, but their initial results are an essential step toward establishing how CBD works in the body.
Taking CBD may be helpful for people with anxiety or panic disorder. Source: Medical News Today Online CBD for panic and anxiety Some studies in humans show that CBD may be useful for other issues commonly associated with depression, such as anxiety or panic disorder. A 2017 review of the potential benefits of CBD for panic disorder found some positive results. According to the authors, panic disorder affects approximately 5 percent of the worldwide population and causes unexpected and recurring panic attacks. In human models, a single dose of 300 milligrams (mg) of CBD caused a notable decrease in anxiety levels after a simulated public speaking test, according to one study in the review. Another found that 600 mg of CBD caused a significant reduction of anxiety measures in people with social anxiety disorder. Side effects Taking CBD orally, inhaling it, or using it topically usually does not appear to cause side effects. However, if someone is sensitive to the compounds in CBD, they may experience: • changes in appetite or weight • fatigue • diarrhea
CBD can also interact with a range of medications. Anyone considering using CBD should speak to a doctor about their existing medications to check for any interactions. How to use it Many people choose to take CBD orally, using various tinctures, capsules, and oils. CBD may be most effective when a person uses it regularly. There does not appear to be a risk of developing an addiction to CBD, so long-term use may be safe for most people. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate natural supplements such as CBD, so it is crucial to buy only reputable products. Also, it is a good idea to check for third-party lab results that indicate the levels of CBD in any given product. Summary CBD is a potent compound that is gaining popularity as an alternative medicine. While there is some promising evidence for the future use of CBD as an antidepressant, more research in humans is necessary to determine whether it is safe or effective. Anyone interested in using CBD for depression or anxiety should speak to a doctor about how to use it and the risk of interactions with other medications.
MAY 2019 22|23
BEAUTY 2. NARS Lipsticks
M.A.C. introduced Viva Glam in a daunting deep red that became instantly universal; the line now carries six rich and versatile colors for women of all styles. The best part about this classic? A percentage of all proceeds is donated to the M.A.C. AIDS Fund to support men, women and children living with HIV and AIDS. Most recently, Rihanna's Viva Glam M.A.C. collection was launched in a cool mauve tone as well. And other spokespeople for Viva Glam have included: Christina Aguilera, Elton John, Mary J. Blige, Pamela Anderson, and Lady Gaga.
5. Stila Was Founded
Stila celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2014, so you can thank 1994 for providing us with the brand that focuses on amazingly pigmented and waterproof eyeliners and eyeshadows. Their best-selling products? Their waterproof eyeliner, one step correct serum for evening out skin tone, and the stay all day liquid lipstick — which actually stays on all day with no smudging.
Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction Source: Bustel Online Helena Kim et’s throw it back to 1994, when you could go see Forrest Gump, Pulp Fiction, The Lion King and The Little Rascals in theaters for roughly $4.08. Simultaneously, Playstation changed computer games forever, O.J. Simpson was on the run, Kurt Cobain committed suicide, Lisa Presley and Michael Jackson got married, Boyz II Men’s "I’ll Make Love to You" played on the radio repeatedly, and everyone was watching Friends. It was an epic and tumultuous year all around, and so the makeup of 1994 tends to be forgotten. And it's a shame, because everything was much simpler back then (you '90s kids know what I'm talking about). Before cell phones, laptops, and GPS, you could ride your bike to your friend's house to see if they could play instead of checking their Instagram for news. You had to use an actual map to get anywhere, and e-mail was the new, hip thing to do. It was bliss. Some argue that the '90s were tacky times — colourful butterfly pins, dark lip liner, over-plucked eyebrows,
L
NOW & THEN
scrunchies, crimped hair and much more that I don't care to relive. But recently, I've noticed a lot of '90s trends making a comeback: Crop tops, overalls, choker necklaces, and platforms, for instance. While some cringe at the sight of these revived '90s staples, what they don't realize is that we have a lot to thank the '90s for, particularly 1994. 1994 was a huge year for the beauty industry, and M.A.C., Chanel, Nars, Stila, and Revlon all had a hand in shaping people's makeup routines. The brands came out with fresh new ideas never done before that are still very much in demand 20 years later. So here are a couple of highlights in the beauty industry from 1994 that revolutionized the market — and no, Lip Smackers unfortunately didn't make the cut. Now, lets take a moment of silence to thank the brains of 1994 behind this beauty revolution. Without them, we’d be living in a world with average lipstick, mediocre pigments, and blah-inducing candles.
In 1994, NARS only did lipstick. They started with 12 simple but alluring shades that would eventually turn into one of the market’s leading makeup lines. After the success of their lipstick launch, NARS broadened their scope and started to produce all types of makeup products from foundation to eyeliner to eyeshadow to to blush and bronzers. Beauty gurus all over the world rave about NARS’ Orgasm blush — but without the launch in 1994, all of our cheeks would be much less orgasmic.
4. Jo Malone London Candles
If you’ve never taken a whiff of a Jo Malone London product, do your nostrils a favor and go smell one at your nearest Saks Fifth Avenue or Nordstrom. Jo Malone opened its first London boutique in 1994, and ever since then, they've been a hit. Although candles come with a steep price tag, people just can't get enough of 'em. But okay, I know candles aren't technically "beauty" products, but anything to do with relaxation classes as part of your "beauty routine," no? Source: Bustel Online
3. M.A.C. Viva Glam Lipstick Debuted
Source: Bustel Online
This was the first edgy color that everyone, even your grandmother, was dying to try. After girls saw this shade at Chanel’s F/W fashion show and on Uma Thurman in Pulp fiction, Chanel’s Vamp was selling out everywhere. Since it’s debut in 1994, it’s been a cult classic, and remains so after 20 years. Many other nail polish brands have copied this classic nail color, but year after year Chanel's Vamp comes out the winner.
Source: Mac Cosmetics Online
Source: Bustel Online
6 Beauty Products From 1994 That Prove This Was The Most Influential Beauty Year Of The Decade
1. Chanel Nail Color In Vamp
Source: Bustel Online
6. Revlon ColorStay Lipstick
This is where it all began. In 1994, Revlon introduced its ColorStay Lipstick. Today, the idea has transposed itself into all facets of their makeup. There is now ColorStay foundation, balm stain, eyeliner, eye shadow, nail polish, lip liner, and much more. Personally, I have a few ColorStay longwear nail polishes and a few ColorStay ultimate suede lipsticks floating around in my purse — and they’re my go-to! Revlon is truly a standout, affordable drug store product with high end quality. Source: Bustel Online
MAY 2019 26|27
BEAUTY
Source: Joburg Online
Meet Young Entrepreneur Naledi Sibisi Cleopatra Shava aledi Sibisi is a former UCT student who is shaking things up in the beauty industry. She’s popularly known for her writing, but we got chat to her about her very first lipstick range and being a young entrepreneur. Here’s what she had to say. When did the initial idea to launch your own lipstick range happen? The initial idea to launch my own lipstick range came about three months ago. My close friend and business partner, Salia Labo mentioned it casually and we left it at that – just a thought. As the weeks went on I started to grow frustrated with a number of things linked to being in the corporate world and felt as though I was being boxed in. That’s when I become the most motivated or rebellious… I cannot stand being put in a box and I felt like the space I was in wasn’t designed for me to be great. So one day, I was sitting at my desk at work and started thinking of what I would call my business. I came up with Estella Cosmetics and literally in a space of 20 minutes, I designed a promotional poster which stated that my lip line would be coming soon and in that leap of faith, we started to put the physical work into making it happen. Salia is the brain behind the whole thing – she’s incredible. How does it feel to have already sold out your first batch of lipsticks? It’s so surreal. Sometimes it sinks in and then it doesn’t. I’m still wrapping my head around how quickly everything happened. I think it will take me a while. The support is really mind blowing to me.
N
NOW & THEN
What were/are some of the challenges you face as a young entrepreneur? It’s exactly what everyone says about entrepreneurship. It’s about risking everything. There are no guarantees so the biggest challenge, especially when you’re working with your own capital is not knowing for sure where your next meal is going to come from. People assume that when business is going well, you’ve made it financially but that’s not the case. When you’re starting up, every single cent that comes in goes back into the business, so you don’t reap the rewards for however long and you have to convince yourself that it will be worth it in the end. Would you change anything about how you have gone about the launch? Oh for sure. So many things didn’t go according to plan. There were some technical issues that were out of our control like the packaging of some of our stock being damaged, which in turn meant we couldn’t release some of the shades we planned to. There’s always light at the end of the tunnel though; despite what didn’t work out, the support remained which then opened up the door for more ideas. We are thinking of some exciting things to do now – almost like a second launch. Are the colours currently available your favourites? Can we expect more variations soon? They are definitely my kind of party. I’m a fan of neutral colors and reds. I’m also a fan of dark and unusual colors (like this smokey purple I discovered) so that’s what I have in mind when I’m picking the upcoming variations.
Source: Joburg Online Who has been your biggest style and overall inspiration throughout this journey? My biggest style inspiration would definitely be Rihanna and it’s funny because people have compared my style to her’s in the sense that you’ll catch me wearing the weirdest things but they happen to work for me. I can go from being glam to tomboy to vintage like it’s nothing. I just think to myself, life is short – wear whatever you want. And wear blue lipstick (laughs). My overall inspiration has always been Kanye West. He is a creative genius and I’ve always found comfort in the fact that he has made it okay to be misunderstood in the pursuit of your craft and trying to change people’s worlds. I know that I was born to be creative. My purpose is to create. I don’t care what people think of me – just let me create and make a difference. Are you currently pursuing other passions or careers prospects? I’m always plotting my next move while on my current move. I’m so secretive too, I just plot in silence. My family and friends find out things (like I’m launching my own lipstick line) at the exact same time as everyone else. I put it on social media and my dad literally didn’t know (laughs). I just
know in the end, the name Naledi Sibisi will mean something for the culture. I’m confident. How big do you see your brand growing? I picture an empire. I can see it. I’m waiting on the universe to respond. What words of inspiration do you have for other young entrepreneurs out there? My latest mantra is – don’t be scared to dream. People take pride in closing doors and telling you ‘no’ because they are afraid of their own limitations. What someone can or can’t do is none of your business. Just focus on yourself and what you want to achieve and believe in it wholeheartedly. Every time somebody makes you feel small – that’s your moment to shine. I’ve never admitted this, but the last person I was serious romantically with was the catapult for all my achievements this year. In the end, he made me feel so small and insignificant that it became a driving force to prove that theory wrong. In the exact same sense, I advise people to respond to trying times by being greater than the lowest you’ve ever felt.
MAY 2019 30|31
Shop 22, Constantia Village, Cape Town, Western Cape 7806
BEAUTY
Source: Glamour Online
I Replaced My Entire Beauty Routine With Only CBD and Hemp Products Lindsey Unterberger ecently one of my good friends went on a trip to Colorado and fully embraced the state’s legality of recreational marijuana. She came back with a newfound obsession with edibles—and some seriously glowing skin. When I asked her what was going on with her face, she casually said she'd started using CBD-infused oils and thought they were helping with her acne. The radiance probably had more to do with a stress-free vacation than a skin care product she had just started using, but it was enough to pique my interest in weed-based beauty. I was aware the beauty world had been hitting the cannabis craze hard for the past few years, but until I started searching for a gateway serum of my own, I didn’t know just how hard. This past year it seems like products made with CBD and cannabis seed oil lit up out of nowhere. Milk Makeup came out with a hemp-derived mascara and brow tint, aptly named Kush. Clean beauty destinations including Credo and Cap Beauty added pot-based products to their offerings, and entirely new skin care brands based around the ingredient have launched. The further down the weed rabbit hole I went, the more I realized I could easily replace not only my serum but all of my beauty products with their kush counterparts. So—and you can see where I’m going with this—that’s exactly what I did. For the sake of experimentation, I vowed to use only beauty products made with either CBD or hemp for a solid week. For the uninitiated, CBD stands for cannabidiol, which is a cannabinoid found in the cannabis plant. I know your first question: No, it won’t get you high like fellow cannabinoid
R
NOW & THEN
THC. But it does pose certain legality issues depending on what it comes from. CBD derived from hemp is always legal, while CBD derived from the marijuana plant is illegal except in states that have recreational or medicinal marijuana programs. While there is hard evidence showing that CBD and THC can reduce inflammation and pain when applied topically, the science behind their benefits in skin care is less clear, though many consider them solid sources of antioxidants and beneficial amino acids. Before fully committing to my weeklong CBD experiment, I asked cosmetic dermatologist Shereene Idriss, M.D., of Union Square Laser Dermatology whether she thought the ingredient was effective in skin care. It’s possible, she says. “There’s a 2014 study in the Journal of Clinical Investigation that showed promising results for using CBD to treat acne.” Until additional research backs up those findings, she won’t advise her patients to use it, but she does have high (sorry) hopes for it. OK, but would anything bad happen to me if I used it now? Probably not, says fellow NYC cosmetic dermatologist Sejal Shah, M.D., founder of Smarter Skincare Dermatology: “Generally, CBD is well tolerated by all skin types, but be sure to look for it in products that best suit your skin type.” Essentially, the CBD wouldn’t cause irritation but another ingredient in the product might. “Just as you would with any new product, start ones containing CBD with caution and stop using it if develop a negative reaction,” she advised me. Armed with that information, I began overhauling my vanity. Out went my Clé de Peau Beauté Le Sérum and Sisley Paris Black Rose Crème. In came counterparts from brands
I hadn’t heard of, like Hora, Kana, and Khus + Khus. Much to my husband’s surprise and amusement, he found the Dove, Kiehl’s, and Oribe in our shower replaced with Ananda Hemp soap and CBD for Life shampoo and conditioner. I had assumed that replacing all of my go-to products with their weed-based counterparts would feel like a huge undertaking, but with so many options available, the hardest thing was actually deciding which ones to use. I mean, how many CBD serums does a girl need? I also expected my bathroom to look (and smell) like one of those hippie gift stores you find in Woodstock, New York, and was pleasantly surprised to find that was far from the case. So many of the products were beyond chic. Because I’m nothing if not dedicated, I also used CBD during all my usual self-care rituals. I got a CBD massage. I filled my baths with hemp milk and CBD-laced bath bombs. I surrounded myself with cannabis-scented candles and drank (probably illegal) THC tea. I slathered Charlotte’s Web CBD lotion all over my body and indulged my face with a CBD and lavender sleeping mask at night. Some of the products, like a body serum I liberally applied after a shower without testing first, were particularly fragrant. “You smell like a forest,” my husband complained hours later. Others, like a hemp soap that was labeled “unscented,” smelled exactly the way I had envisioned all CBD products to and made me gag at first sniff. That one didn’t make its way into the mix. Overall, though, I was shocked at how many of the items I really did like. A few caught my attention based on their packaging alone. There was none of the hippie-dippie flower-power tie-dyed designs that I had expected. In fact, some, like the black-bottled Hora Super Serum + CBD, were so pretty that I’d be willing to bet they’ll become beauty catnip for Insta. (Herbivore's Emerald Deeop Moisture Glow Oil has definitely already achieved this.) The Burkelman Sensory
Seeker candle also fell into this category, but be aware that its cannabis resin, fernet, and clove scent is strong. One of my favorite additions was the Kana Skincare Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask. It has moisturizing hyaluronic acid and soothing lavender oil in addition to antioxidantand fatty-acid-rich CBD and hemp seed extract. Its whipped texture and light scent make it such a dream to apply before bed that I wish I could use it more than the recommended three times per week. I’m also keeping the CBD for Life Eye Serum. It’s unscented, gives off a cooling sensation when dotted under your eyes, and seems to keep the area hydrated longer than most of my eye creams. The peppermint-scented Vertly Lip Butter was another winner. I don’t know how much CBD benefit you really get from such a small amount, but I love the way it hydrates without feeling sticky or gloppy. Outside of the THC-laced tea, the only time I really felt a change in my body was after the Chillhouse CBD massage. During the 50-minute treatment, a wonderful therapist named Vee kneaded the knots in my back into oblivion and then applied a cooling CBD oil at the end, which really alleviated some of the aches I usually get after a massage with medium-deep pressure. “Think of it like a better version of Ben-Gay,” Vee told me. I’ll be back for another one of those for sure. In the end, switching to all CBD beauty products for a week didn’t drastically change my life or my skin (not that anyone thought it would), but it did make me rethink those largely off-base assumptions I had made about them. There is so much more out there than the patchouli-scented products I envisioned. So, while I may not be ready to join my friend in the edibles club, I can safely say I now get the buzz around CBD beauty. Ahead, shop the best of the bunch. *all images sourced from Glamour Online
MAY 2019 34|35
BEAUTY
CBD for Life Pure CBD Eye Serum
CBD for Life Pure CBD Shampoo and Conditioner
Herbivore Emerald CBD + Adaptogens Deep Moisture Glow Oil Ambika Herbals Hemp Bath Milk
Hora Super Serum + CBD Vertly Hemp Infused Lip Balm
Lord Jones High CBD Formula Body Oil
Khus + Khus Sen Face Serum
Charlotte’s Web Hemp Infused Cream
CBDMedic Active Sport Deep Muscle Rub Ointment
Ananda Hemp Spectrum Salve 125
Burkelman Sensory Seeker Candle
NOW & THEN
Kana Skincare Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask
MAY 2019 36|37
FASHION & STYLE John Travolta is Cool again Speaking of Pulp Fiction, John Travolta had a major career comeback in the Quentin Tarantino flick playing Vincent Vega, dancing the twist and earning an Oscar nomination.
From the "Rachel" to the Wonderbra, Was 1994 the Best Style Year Ever? When you close your eyes and think of '90s fashion, chances are you are picturing something from 1994: a killer black dress held together by safety pins, dark red lips and nails, and Jennifer Aniston's iconic Friends haircut. So what else made 1994 so great? Rita Kokshanian Elizabeth Hurley's Safety Pin Dress When she accompanied then-boyfriend Hugh Grant to the Four Weddings and a Funeral premiere, the previously relatively-unknown Elizabeth Hurley created a fervor in a black Versace number held together by several oversized gold safety pins. "This dress is the fashion equivalent of the shot heard around the world,” says Hal Rubenstein, former InStyle fashion director.“One dress made this woman world famous.”
Source: Miramax Films
Source: Time & Life Pictures
Vamp is the Colour 'of the Year. The new sassy, sexy ruby red Vamp nail polish was everywhere. And the Chanel shade is really unforgettable on Uma Thurman in the 1994 hit film Pulp Fiction.
The Bra Came Out From Hiding Sassy Sarahs (as in Jessica Parker and Michelle Gellar) got away with wearing nothing on top but a bra. And somehow, the look caught on.
Source: Phil Dent We All Fell In Love With Whitney Houston Whitney Houston’s recording of the song “I Will Always Love You,” which was written by Dolly Parton in the 1970s, earned her superstar status and a slew of Grammys in 1994.
Source: Getty Images Source: Everett Collection "The Rachel" Started a Hair Frenzy When Jennifer Aniston first starred in Friends in 1994, her "Rachel" haircut ignited a hair revolution. Suddenly her choppy, layered locks became one of the most coveted and adored hairstyles.
Source: Courtesy Of Mac Rupaul Became the Face of MAC MAC’s burgundy red Viva Glam Lipstick was introduced to raise money for the M·A·C AIDS Fund. Since then, Sir Elton John Fergie, Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj, Rihanna and others have modeled for Viva Glam.
NOW & THEN
Source: NBC Television/Getty Images
Source: Courtesy Photo High Fashion Got Its Close-Up The fashion documentary, Unzipped, was filmed as it followed designer Isaac Mizrahi’s planning and showing his 1994 fall collection. The era’s hottest supermodels appeared in the film.
Source: Everett Collection MY SO-CALLED LIFE Debuts Claire Danes starred as Angela Chase in the short-lived TV teen drama, which earned her an Emmy nomination and a Golden Globe. And Jared Leto, who played Jordan Catalano, gave viewers a reason to swoon.
MAY 2019 40|41
FASHION & STYLE Makeup Artist Kevyn Aucoin Became A Star Few makeup artists become household names like Kevyn Aucoin. His The Art of Makeup book was a best-seller, while his celebrity following included Madonna, Susan Sarandon, and Demi Moore.
Source: Universal/ Courtesy Everett Collection Winona Ryder Rocked Reality Bites Famously known as an anthem to the Gen-X culture and style, the film Reality Bites became a classic starring Winona Ryder, Ethan Hawke, and Ben Stiller (who also directed the film.)
Source: Tim Graham /Getty Images Source: Stephen Lovekin/Wireimage Bobbi Brown Launched A Beauty Empire A relatively unknown makeup artist appeared on Oprah and the Today show, making sales from her cosmetic company go through the roof. From there, the Bobbi Brown Essentials line went international.
Source: AFP/AFP/Getty Images The Wonderbra Lifted Us Up The Wonderbra and the Super-Uplift, which offered sudden cleavage without implants, made it big! Considered modern miracles, these push-up bras began to account for 10 percent of the bra market.
Princess Diana Made The Ultimate Style Statement The late Princess Diana wore her "revenge" dress, the same day her ex-husband, Prince Charles, admitted to extramarital infidelities. The black satin number later sold at auction for $74,000.
Source: Courtesy Photo
We Said Farewell To Jackie O At just 64, the beloved former first lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis died from cancer. Known for her quiet strength and iconic style, Jackie O had a special knack for wearing pill box hats and big sunglasses. Source: Courtesy Photo Supermodels Said No To Fur The animal activist organization, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), got Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell to pose naked on billboards with the slogan "I’d Rather Go Naked than Wear Fur."
Calvin’s Unisex Scent Calvin Klein’s popular fragrance CK One landed on the scene and spurred a buzz for the unisex scent. If that wasn’t enough, the sexy black and white ads starred Kate Moss and Marky Mark (aka Mark Wahlberg).
Source: Ron Galella/ Wireimage Source: NBC / Courtesy Everett Collection George Clooney Became A Hunk ER, an NBC TV medical drama, became the stuff of water cooler conversation. Meanwhile, a young doctor, Douglas "Doug" Ross, M.D., was played by a relatively unknown George Clooney.
Mtv’s First Shocking Kiss When Lisa Marie Presley and Michael Jackson famously kissed at the MTV Video Music Awards, it caused a frenzy. The couple had secretly married in the Dominican Republic that same year.
Calvin Klein's unisex scent Source: Courtesy Photo Source: AFP/AFP/Getty Images
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 42|43
FASHION & STYLE
A look from the Matte Nolim Spring/Summer 2019 presentation. Source: AFI
A look from the Matte Nolim Spring/Summer 2019 presentation. Source: Matte Nolim
Johannesburg: The Realities Behind Catering Fashion To South Africa's Millennial Consumer Declan Eytan s world’s youngest continent, with 50% of its population under the age of 25, Africa’s generations Y and Z could mean high returns on investments to those willing to take a leap of faith. A fresh breed of local fashion entrepreneurs is seizing the opportunity currently. By not solely relying on the wives of oligarchs to keep their made-to-order business model afloat, but by selling their ready-to-wear “garms” to a younger, progressive audience instead. “The majority of my clients are younger. I’d say they’re typically in their 20s or 30s. Then 16 to 19-year-olds love my stuff and they’ll say: ‘I can’t wait to be rich so I can buy your pieces.’ I think it’s great that these girls already perceive me as a proper brand and that there’s that aspirational element,” says the founder and Creative Director behind the brand in question, Siyathemba Duma. The South African who works
A
NOW & THEN
out of his design studio in Johannesburg’s Houghton neighborhood, founded the Matte Nolim brand in the year 2014. Over the years, Matte Nolim has morphed into a universe of flirty colorful fashion, where miniskirts and high waist oversized pants are part of the same galaxy. “Ladies in their 40s gravitate more towards the oversized shirt dress. Also coats have crossover appeal between different generations,” the fashion designer shares as we browse through a rack of his designs. “I personally feel fashion grows younger – and that’s what excites me. He adds, “Cause in the end, also that woman in her 40s wants to feel young and fresh.” There are challenges along the way however, for those trying to win over South Africa’s under 35 consumers. Pricing being a key issue, in a nation where 38,2% of the population aged 15-34 is unemployed, according to Stats SA data.
“Young people are used to buying at a Zara or H&M price point – when you produce locally things become a bit more expensive There are things I can retail at a lower price, such as a t-shirt, but I cannot do that across the entire collection. So that’s the tricky part – explaining why the garments carry these price tags. A jacket and skirt will retail for 5500 Rand ($394 at the current exchange rate) if custom-made, and 3500 Rand ($251 at the current exchange rate) if mass-produced. 5500 Rand is a lot for these younger girls.” In keeping with his millennial fan base, the young designer recently wrapped a collaboration with Hyundai, that was part of last December’s Afropunk Festival Johannesburg. The collaboration saw the Matte Nolim Creative Director designing three looks inspired by three customized models of the automobile manufacturer - inspired by New York, Paris, and Johannesburg. Accountant-turned-entrepreneur Theo Baloyi founded his sneaker brand Bathu in the year 2015. “Bathu,” South African township slang for the word shoe, amassed a loyal following of young South Africans by way of its signature mesh sneaker design. The design, available in six different colorways, shall soon be joined by a range of loafers and Bathu ready-to-wear apparel.
On the retail front, Bruce Whiffler is providing a breath of fresh air locally, in the form of a concept store that serves a niche audience. In October last year, the South African with a background in wholesale, opened the doors of Partisan. The retail space located in Johannesburg’s heavy-on-hipsters Maboneng Precinct, retails fedoras and baseball caps by Goorin Bros. alongside locally designed apparel. “We’re still working on the product mix a bit more before we’ll give our Instagram a boost. We’re looking to bring in more local brands, as well as some Japanese brands,” the Partisan founder says. “People enjoy it, it’s fresh, and a welcome alternative to being inside a mall. Customers enjoy being on the street, and I feel things are going back to that. We are exposed to all the creatives that live here in Maboneng, plus we have many guys visiting the neighborhood. We cater to the individualist – the guy that’s not trying to fit in somewhere. Having more competitors around us – right now it’s mainly eateries – would help bring in more people. But right now, we largely rely on word-of-mouth marketing.”
The store front of Johannesburg concept store Partisan. Source: Nkulueko Nzwanza
MAY 2019 48|49
FASHION & STYLE REEFER MADNESS, 1936 So how did this all become illegal? With the rise of the cotton gin, hemp became a forgotten material due to the ease of producing cotton fibers with new technology. In the early 1900s, George Schlichten introduced the hemp decorticator, a machine that was going to revolutionize the hemp industry by speeding up production. Being a multi-faceted material, other industries saw hemp as a threat and began to demonize the cannabis plant through the press, labeling it as the most dangerous drug in the world. Source: Hulton Archives/Getty Images Source: Public Domain Pictures
How cannabis has influenced fashion:
This led to the 1936 propaganda film Reefer Madness warning America of the nation's newest drug. In 1937, the Marijuana Tax Act was passed as a part of prohibition era banning all production, sale, and use of cannabis products, dragging hemp down with it.
A dose of history behind how cannabis became couture Vienna Vernose ou've seen it in your lip balms and in your lattes— cannabis is seemingly everywhere these days. Beyond the CBD-infused detox teas, cannabis has a long history in fashion as one of the most universal and sustainable textiles of all time. As legalization has come more into conversation, there has been a recent embrace in 4/20-friendly fashions from the runways to some of CR's favorite girls. Celebrating the holiday, here's your dose of history behind how cannabis came into fashion. CHINESE PAPER-MAKING 105 A.D. The use of hemp textiles dates back to around 8,000 B.C. when it was utilized as one of the oldest fabrics. Hemp was primarily used in Asia and the Middle East for paper and thick textiles, including sails and cloth. Hemp is also not the same as marijuana. Often interchanged, the hemp textile is made from the same plant as marijuana, cannabis sativa, however hemp contains little psychoactive properties at around 0.3 percent THC concentration.
Y
Source: Corbis/ Getty images
Source: Bulgari Online
WOMEN PROCESSING HEMP, 1956 In turning the hemp plant into fabric, the hemp plant fibers are separated into fine hairs that are then spun into fabrics. The durable fabric is tough and resilient, often additionally used for producing rope.
Source: Mondadori Portfolio/Getty Images VENEZIANI DRESS, 1949 Italian designer Jole Veneziani created this summer dress strung with hemp embroidery in 1949. The embroidery of the durable material shows its transitional stage from a utilitarian textile to something far more experimental in the realm of high fashion.
PUCCINI, 1971 Due to the hippie culture of the '70s, the era brought changes in fashion incorporating bohemian style into the trends of the time. One of the popular trends of this time was woven hemp belts, especially when cinched around a long, flowing dress.
Source: J.P. Zachariasen BULGARI'S "HIGH JEWLERY" ROARING '80S NECKLACE In 18-karat yellow gold openwork, Bulgari's roaring '80s necklace shows cannabis leafs framed in pavĂŠ diamond work. The chain is detailed in dreamy malachite inserts for those who like their grass a little greener.
RIHANNA IN NEW YORK CITY, 2013 The CR (Carine Roitfeld )cover star began to show her leaf love back in 2010 when she was repeatedly shown boldly wearing cannabis leaves on various fashion statements. Here, Rihanna is photographed in New York City with a slouchy python clutch detailed in a green leather cannabis leaf by Jacquie Aiche. Source: Yahoo News Online
Source: Print Collector/Getty Images
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 52|53
FASHION & STYLE MARGOT ROBBIE HOSTS SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE, 2016 Kicking off the 42nd season of Saturday Night Live, Margot Robbie gave her introductory monologue in a slip dress from Alexander Wang's Fall/Winter 2016 collection. The Chanel face sported a bouduoir-esque LBD detailed in lace cannabis leaf cut-outs. Talk about a statement piece.
MILEY CYRUS' BANGERZ TOUR, 2014 During Miley Cyrus's 2014 Bangerz tour, the artist hit the stage in a bedazzled cannabis leaf leotard designed by The Blonds, showing her dedication to the plant. Her show-stopping tour look was finished off with a gold chain with a matching leaf medallion.
Source: NBCU Archives/Getty Images
Source: Kevin Mazur/Getty Images BAJA EAST FALL/ WINTER 2016 East coast-west coast duo John Targon and Scott Studenberg founded their brand Baja East on an urban, laid-back style. The Autumn/ Winter 2016 collection featured an unfinished military jacket with pocket logos as tiny ganja leafs surrounded a peace sign.
GRINDER NECKLACE Available in silver and gold, this grinder necklace by luxury streetwear brand Vetements doubles as both a herb grinder and pendant. The clasped locket opens, exposing the spiked innards of a standard grinder, becoming the perfect accessory for lighting up in a pinch.
Source: Victor Virgile/Getty Images MARA HOFFMAN SPRING/SUMMER 2015 A proponent of cannabis culture, Mara Hoffman created her Spring/Summer collection devoted to the little leaf. As a print purveyor, Hoffman incorporated her "harvest" print, featuring the spiked leaf in a muted green tone. Hoffman focuses her ready-to-wear line on the use of sustainable materials, including hemp and organic cotton.
Source: Vetements
ALEXANDER WANG FALL/ WINTER 2016 Alexander Wang's Fall/Winter 2016 collection was one of the most talked-about shows in the wake of the cannabis culture that has gained popularity over the past decade. Wang showed cannabis leaves materialized in shearling print and lace detail. The show was very present, and very angst-y in mainly lace and leather.
Source: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images
Source: Jacquie Aiche
Source: Palm Angels PALM ANGELS MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2017 Moncler art director and founder Francesco Ragazzi sent models down the runway in 4/20-inspired tracksuits for the Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2017 menswear season. Completing the look was a book of Palm Angels matches attached around the neck, just in case you ever lose your lighter. JACQUIE AICHE SWEET LEAF CROC CLUTCH Founder of marijuana education and awareness campaign called Spark the Conversation, Bianca Green found herself invited to Snoop Dogg's birthday party with nothing to wear. She called upon her friend and designer Jacquie Aiche, who opened up her showroom on a Sunday to create something special for Green. "I got a snakeskin clutch with [a] black [pot] leaf on it. I liked it so much I slept with it that night," Green said. Complete with two blunt cases, a mini lighter, and a holding clutch, the Sweet Leaf Croc Clutch is practically made for rolling up on-the-go.
OLYMPIA LE-TAN SPRING/SUMMER 2017 For Olympia Le-Tan's Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the designer featured a variety of collaborative prints created by fellow artists and personal loved ones of the designer. The theme was a 1960s culture of psychedelic chic, displaying a pair of lips smoking a rainbow on the front of a dress. Source: Catwalking/Getty Images
Source: Brian Ach/Getty Images
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 54|55
15 Moments That Defined 1994
CULTURE 6. Nirvana releases 'Unplugged in New York'
1. The Beastie Boys' iconic 'Sabotage' video Emily Barker
The Beastie Boys' iconic 'Sabotage' video - a high octane cop show pastiche that captured the trio's humour and energy as they entered their peak.
T
his week' we step back in time to 1994, a vintage year not just in music, but pop culture as a whole. Here's some of the trends, TV shows and innovations that made '94 a year to remember.
Source: Tumblr
7. Kurt Cobain committs suicide
Source: Beastie Boys Onlnie
3. Introduction of Friends
Source: Zero-Lab Online
As Chandler Bing would say, could the introduction of US sitcom Friends to TV screens be any more important? The show captured the optimism and aspirations of twentysomething urbanites everywhere, changing the TV landscape forever.
4. Britpop defined British The Britpop wars defined '90s alternative culture British alternative culture, peaking
2. Quentin Tarantino's Pulp Fiction
NOW & THEN
9. Trial of O.J. Simpson
8. Adam Horovitz of the Beastie Boys was sentenced to 200 hours of community service Adam Horovitz of the Beastie Boys was sentenced to 200 hours of community service in 1994, for attacking a television cameraman during a funeral service for River Phoenix months earlier. The actor had collapsed and died of drug-induced heart failure on the Source: NME Online sidewalk outside the West Hollywood nightclub The Viper Room, at the age of 23.
Source: NME Online
10. The Shawshank Redemption Source: Pinterest No legal case has quite shaken US culture like the trial of former professional football star and actor O. J. Simpson, who was arrested on two counts of murder after the June 1994 deaths of his ex-wife, Nicole Brown Simpson, and a waiter, Ronald Lyle Goldman. In late 1995 Simpson was declared not guilty - but the controversy surrounding the case continued to echo for years after.
5. Nelson Mandela becomes SA's first black president
After three centuries of white rule, Nelson Mandela became South Africa's first black president on May 10, 1994. "Never, never again will this beautiful land experience the oppression of one by another," said Mandela upon his inauguration.
Recorded in late 1993 but released in '94, 'Unplugged in New York' showed a hitherto unseen softer side of Nirvana - one usually obscured by guitar fuzz and throaty screams. Cover versions of The Vaselines, David Bowie and Meat Puppets tracks, as well as gentler takes on tracks like 'Come As You Are' made 'Unplugged' a stirring final release for the trio.
in 1994 with the release of Oasis's 'Definitely Maybe' and Blur's 'Parklife' - two records whose swagger captured the renewed hope of a nation emerging from a recession and entering a new political era thanks to Labour leader Tony Blair.
Source: Pinterest
Quentin Tarantino's Pulp Fiction hit cinemas in September 1994, proving a massive box office hit. Just as successful was its now legendary soundtrack, made up of cult cuts of surf rock and a electrifying rendition of Neil Diamond's 'Girl, You'll Be a Woman Soon' by Urge Overkill. By 1996, the soundtrack had sold more 2m copies.
Source: Pinterest
"Kurt Cobain's suicide took a pivotal position in 1994, so that every other breakdown, freakout or tragedy seemed to spin darkly around it," wrote NME's John Mulvey at the end of that year. Found dead in his greenhouse from a shotgun blast to the head, the Nirvana man's death was '94 pop culture's darkest moment.
Frank Darabont's 1994 adaptation of Stephen King's The Shawshank Redemption gave the '90s arguably its most enduring film. Starring Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman, the tale of a banker wrongly incarcerated for murder struck a chord with moviegoers, winning multiple awards.
Adaptation of The Shawshank Redemption Source: NME Online
Nelson Mandela Source: Virgin Media
MAY 2019 58 58|59
11. Madonna on the Late Show with David Letterman
Source: Rolling Stone Online On March 31, 1994, Madonna was invited onto the Late Show with David Letterman. Fourteen uses of the word "f*ck" and several attempts to make the host smell her underwear later, the pop star left the show's Manhattan set to uproar from censors and watchdogs.
Source: NME Online
12. Aerosmith gave away a song for free online
Those notorious rock trailblazers Aerosmith became the first major band to give away a song for free online, via CompuServe. Over 10,000 subscribers downloaded the song 'Head First', which originally featured as the b-side to 'Cryin'.
Woodstock '94 in upstate New York Source: NME Online
The Lion King hit cinema screens in 1994 Source: NME Online
13. Woodstock 1994 An estimated 350,000 showed up at Woodstock '94 in upstate New York, held to celebrate 25 years since the original festival. Nine Inch Nails, Bob Dylan and Red Hot Chili Peppers all played and Green Day notoriously started an out of control mud fight with the crowd.
14. The Lion King
The Lion King hit cinema screens in 1994. With songs from Elton John, a hyena voiced by Whoopi Goldberg and the tear-jerking death of Mufasa, it was understandably one of the most successful Disney films of all-time. Hakuna matata, right?
15. Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet and their equally drippy cover of The Troggs' 1967 track 'Love Is All Around' topped the UK singles chart for a whopping 15 weeks, after it was featured in Four Weddings and a Funeral. Marti Pellow has been a marked man ever since. Wet Wet Wet topped the UK singles chart Source: NME Online
NOW & THEN
60
12
CULTURE
Things From Millennial Culture That'll Probably Be Romanticized In 40 Years
Audrey Worboys hances are, you've thought of how you're going to explain the world you're living through to your grandchildren. That's probably what Reddit user Tangerine_Apologist thought when they posed the question, "What do you think that popular culture will romanticize about the 2010s?" Here are some responses that'll make you say, "Damn, so true."
C
1.
2.
Tinder: "People meeting their spouse on tinder." —wpiman
5.
Becoming YouTube Famous: "Dreams of internet stardom. YouTube, Instagram, blogging, whatever. The internet equivalent of being a garage band aiming for musical success." —solaslunas"
Source: Chris Jackson / Getty Images
"I imagine a "meme historian" doing an interview on the History Channel 100 years from now..."
Source: Audrey Worboys / BuzzFeed Online/ Niantic
6.
Pokémon Go: "That one summer when Pokémon Go was being played by everyone." —eyemadudefortrude
Source: Pinterest "We Are Young" by Fun: "'Tonight, We Are Young' by Fun will be played in all the movie prom scenes about the era, 30 years from now." — dopingponging
3.
Memes: "I can't wrap my mind around the fact that history books will most likely teach about memes. I imagine a "meme historian" doing an interview on the History Channel 100 years from now, being completely serious about discussing memes from 100 years ago and how it reflected culture." —samwisegamgee22"
Source: Twitter
NOW & THEN
Source: Vanity Fair
4.
Regularly Scheduled TV: "Remember the olden days when you had to wait a WHOLE WEEK to watch the next episode of your favorite TV show?" —nomoresugarbooger
Source: Nickelodeon
7. 9.
Source: E! Online Instagram: "'Oh sweetie, your grandad sent me a DM after liking my photos for a week. I wasn't really sure about him at the time...'" —emokiddo00002
Source: Reddit Online Netflix & Chill: "'Back then, men were gentlemen and knew how to treat women!'" —tangerine_apologist
8.
Source: Onceit Online
Card Games: "I imagine everything in the future will be augmented reality, and everybody will be nostalgic for when we all sat around a table and played Cards Against Humanity." —jayparty
MAY 2019 64|65
10.
Source: Jim Henson Company / Disney
Driving: "I think there will come a time when driving your own car on the freeway will seem terrifying to many Americans, that's something that will be handled by computers that are much safer at it than a person." —pa2sk
12.
Source: Urospoteko / Getty Images
11.
Illegal Weed: "If it becomes decriminalized in the near future, Weed prohibition" —cottonmouthcafe
Superhero Movies: "I'd argue even the rise of the Superhero film genre in recent times is due to people's hopeless belief that maybe there is some pure good out there due to all the very public moral controversies of the war on terror." —pointblankmos
Source: Marvel
NOW & THEN
66
|67
CULTURE shorthand associated with pot and the number 420. Another dubious explanation holds that there are 420 distinct chemical compounds found in the actual cannabis plant. That, too, is false. And besides, there’s really only one chemical compound found in pot that’s of real interest, anyway, and that’s tetrahydrocannabinol, more commonly known as THC. This is the psychoactive metabolite that gets you baked, to use the medical terminology. There’s also cannabidiol, aka CBD — more on that here. There is also no legitimate association between marijuana and the fact that the history’s biggest jerk, Adolf Hitler, was born on 4/20/1889, nor that the numbers in the Bob Dylan song “Rainy Day Women #12 & 35” can be multiplied together to get the number 420. The real origin story behind the 420 pot association is simple but far more compelling than any of the apocryphal anecdotes your cousin told you back in high school. It all started back in the early 1970s in the town of San Rafael, California. A group of upstanding young marijuana enthusiasts who were enrolled together at the local high school caught wind of a plot of marijuana growing wild in a forest near town. They hatched a plan to find the pot plot, just as any decent young men should have done. (Zero sarcasm intended, for the record.) The lads, who referred to themselves informally as the Waldos (because high school), would meet up each day at 4:20 PM at a statue near their school. Once assembled at the appointed time and place, they set out en masse in search of the grass.
The Waldos never found the legendary plot of woodland weed, but something even better came out of it all: The young men began using the number 420 not as a time to meet and commence a search, but instead as a code word to refer to all things pot-related. And there it may have stayed, a fond memory in the minds of a few gentlemen from California, perhaps even forgotten over time. Fortunately for the rest of us, one of the Waldos became associated with the Grateful Dead. It went something like this: The band worked with the father of one of the Waldos in handling some real estate deals, the real estate agent’s older son became friends with the Dead’s bassist, then the younger brother started hanging out, then the Dead heard this 420 shorthand and liked it. During the subsequent years — this being the later 1970s and 1980s — the Grateful Dead spread the association between 420 and marijuana across America. The real tipping point coming in the year 1990. At a Dead concert in late December of that year, a reporter on the staff of High Times magazinereceived a flyer referring to smoking “420” on April 20 at 4:20 p.m. The magazine published the flyer in a 1991 issue and what had started as a code word among a few high school friends spread worldwide. Thanks to some kids from San Rafael High, the Grateful Dead, and High Times magazine, 420 will forever be associated with marijuana. And 4:20 a.m. will always be the wrong 4:20 to choose for your pot smoking pleasure. Sleep is important, people.
Source: The Manual Online
What is 420: The Meaning Behind the Haziest Day of the Year Steven John s almost everyone who attended college between the mid-1990s and the current day can tell you, there is a strong association between the number 420 and the illegal substance commonly known as marijuana. It’s also at times called pot, weed, green, herb, dope, grass, lawn, turf, and yard. Actually, I think those last three words refer more to natural ground cover than to narcotics — I’ll get back to you on that. On any given day, at 4:20 p.m., pot smokers all across America and abroad enjoy a fine toke of their preferred cannabis strain. (Dedicated aficionados might arise at 4:20 a.m.
A
for a puff then return to bed for some first-rate slumber or begin their day bright and early and high.) April 20, abbreviated as 4/20, has also taken on a great significance to those for whom pot is prized. In fact, 4/20 is noted as the pot smoker’s holiday. But why? And why is the number 420 associated with marijuana at all? First, let’s dispel the falsehoods. Many people claim the number 420 was used as a police code for announcing illicit marijuana-related activities in progress. As in, an officer would espy a group of reefer heads and grab his walkie talkie to call out: “Hey, we’ve got a 420 in progress at the Old Mill! Send backup!” In fact, there was never any such police Source: The Manual Online
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 68|69
TRAVEL
The way we used to travel: 7 ways travel has changed in the digital age HuffPost nce upon a time, smartphones and tablets didn't exist. And travel (well, life, in general) was very different. Technology has revolutionized the way we travel, in ways both good and bad. We're feeling kind of nostalgic for the travel days of yore, so let's take a walk down memory lane and remember the relics of pre-Digital Age travel...
O
Source: Andy Crawford/Getty Images 3. And all those CDs and your Discman and your Gameboy and your travel journal and your datebook took up some space, too. Tablets for the win.
Source: Eric Audras/Getty Images 4. When you arrived at your destination, you relied on physical maps... not a map app that helps you when you get lost.
Source: Huffpost Online
Source: Tooga/Getty Images 5. You had to call your airline to check flights. No internet updates, no emails, no texts. Just phone calls.
Source: Sascha Grant/Flickr 1. International Calling Cards were a must when traveling abroad. How else would you stay in touch with your friends and family back home? Now, you don't even need to use a phone to get in touch with your family back home. Skyping over WiFi is way easier.
Source: Thomas Barwick/Getty Images 2. You didn't pay baggage fees, which is good because your carry-on was packed with all the books on your vacation "to read" list... Imagine packing those in your luggage... E-books make your bag a whole lot lighter.
Source: Lolly Knit/Flickr 6. You had to read guidebooks or chat up locals to find out the best places to eat, drink and explore. Yelp, and the Internet in general, makes that a very different experience.
7. You lugged around a camera (or a bunch of disposables), rather than snapping thousands of pics on your smartphone.
Source: Life Supercharger/Flickr
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 72|73
TRAVEL Lindsey Dukes f you want to crush your travel goals, making plans will help you - here's how. The only way to CRUSH your travel goals is to PLAN! That may not sound too appealing (yet) but it's the only way you're going to be able to get all the stamps your heart desires. Plus, we'll show you a technique that enables you to enjoy the process instead of dreading it. And since Millennials are choosing to travel differently than every other generation, we'll give you the tips to maximize your plans. The Roadmap As fun as spontaneous travel is, let's be honest - most of us need to plan ahead to make it happen. Especially when traveling abroad. Did you know only 36% of Americans hold valid passports and only 20% travel overseas? What's worse, more than half of all paid vacation days go unused. Why? There are several reasons but one answer for sure is – you guessed it – lack of planning. How many times have you caught yourself saying, "I wish I had the time/money to take an epic trip to <fill in the blank>"? Well, guess what helps bring those wishes to life? Planning. Turns out Benjamin Franklin just might have been onto something when he said: "Failing to plan is planning to fail." Here is your roadmap to CRUSHING your travel goals. And don't worry, it's designed for enjoyment.
I
Instead of focusing on vacation days, holidays, or logistics, first just simply figure out where you want to go. Nail down your top three destinations. This is important for several reasons. First, after you do your research on where you want to go, you're going to become energized and motivated to make it happen. But Millennials have proven they want to travel differently (and responsibly). No longer are vacations all about staying at a fancy all-inclusive resort in Cancun and never leaving to explore. Instead, they want to travel like a local and taste the culture. Therefore, when doing your research, make sure you're reading reviews from Millennials like yourself and not from 60 year olds on Trip Advisor who have a very different view of the world and travel than you do. Seek to travel with companies that share your same vision and passions who also try to keep the money local to the countries they visit. Also, it's hard for a travel goal to feel like a potential reality if you're just worried about your work schedule. Instead of getting bogged down by those stressors, start with what motivates you: travel! After you nail down your top three destinations, consider completing the following two steps for each of them.
Source: Under 30 Experiences Online Source: Under 30 Experiences Online
How to CRUSH travel goals: a guide for millennials Here is your roadmap to CRUSHING your travel goals. And don't worry, it's designed for enjoyment.
NOW & THEN
Source: Under 30 Experiences Online Work backwards As fun as spontaneous travel is, let's be honest - most of us need to plan ahead to make it happen. Especially when traveling abroad. Did you know only 36% of Americans hold valid passports and only 20% travel overseas? What's worse, more than half of all paid vacation days go unused. Why? There are several reasons but one answer for sure is – you guessed it – lack of planning. How many times have you caught yourself saying, "I wish I had the time/money to take an epic trip to <fill in the blank>"? Well, guess what helps bring those wishes to life? Planning.Turns out Benjamin Franklin just might have been onto something when he said: "Failing to plan is planning to fail."
Plan the Budget Usually, budgeting sucks, but this isn't any kind of budget, it's a #travelgoals budget. You know where you want to go and now you get to do the research on how you can get there. Learn more about the country you want to visit and figure out the total cost. Think of it like a fun project and imagine yourself being there as you calculate the numbers.
MAY 2019 76|77
San Nicolas, Argentina
TRAVEL
Travel destinations around the world where you can smoke weed
A reefer in Russia Probably one of the more shocking places on this list, Russia has decriminalized grass. While you may find yourself in trouble for a number of other things in Russia, weed won’t be one of them.
Source: Daily Hive Online
Cooking with cannabis in Cambodia and Laos In Cambodia and Laos, you’ll often see items on the menu named “happy” because it is infused with different cannabinoid oils for flavours… and a pinch of fun. While it is still illegal here, many places still offer it on the low, and for cheap prices at that.
Source: Daily Hive Online Source: Daily Hive Online Mapped Global Correspondent ow that cannabis is legalized, enthusiasts don’t have to travel across borders to partake in their favourite activity. But because travelling is life, sometimes it is nice to visit other destinations to take a toke. Starting in Amsterdam and taking you around the world, here are some places where you can you can enjoy a puff or two without punishment.
N
Indulge in Amsterdam For decades, The Netherlands have been seen as a haven to smoke weed in coffee shops. Tourist flock to the capital city, Amsterdam, to understand a Van Gogh painting better after eating a marijuana-infused brownie. In 2017, the cultivation of marijuana was partially legalized, which could lead to a shift from the coffee shop culture of the past.
Source: Daily Hive Online
Lighting up in the arvo in Australia While medical marijuana is legalized, personal consumption of recreational pot is not but there are whispers of that changing in the future. Just double check the rules in the area of Australia you are visiting before you go so you don’t find yourself saying “Crikey!” to a tricky situation.
Source: Daily Hive Online
NOW & THEN
Smoking up in Switzerland A green little birdy once told me that there is a push to get cannabis clubs going in Switzerland as well, but that’s still not confirmed. The possession of small amounts of a unique strain of cannabis that contains less than one percent THC has been decriminalized.
Source: Daily Hive Online
MAY 2019 82|83
FOOD
Trending South African Foods: History, Recipes And Preparation
Source: Buzz South Africa Online Henry Derex hey say too many cooks spoil the soup, but the infusion of over 9 countries is what makes South African foods what they are today. South African foods are not just substances consumed to provide essential nutrients to the body, but their rich flavors and textures go as far back as 100,000 years ago. They are not just foods, but works of art! History of South African Foods' Just as the story begins with every African country, the early South Africans were bushmen. They had to hunt and gather, so they depended on foods such as tortoises, coconuts, crayfish and squash (fleshy edible fruit with a thick outer layer when mature). Biltong (dried meat, processed and spiced) and beskuits (dried sweetenedbiscuits) were popular South African foods back in the days and are both still enjoyed by many today. The Bantus were good with their hands and knew their thing out in the field. Coming from the northern part, the introduction of modern agriculture was left to them. They taught the locals how to grow fruits, vegetables, and edible tuber. A Blend Of Various Countries Over the years, South African foods became diverse with the arrival of the Portuguese, Dutch, the French (known for making wines), the Germans, British, Indians, Chinese and the Indonesians. Not forgetting the Malaysian slaves from the east, who worked on farms or with fishermen, bringing with them various spices that added flavuor to various dishes. Here are examples, recipes, and preparations of some of the most popular South African foods:
T
NOW & THEN
Biltong There is something about Africans and meat. The Nigerians have their Suya and Kilishi, the Kenyans have their Nyama Choma. But in South Africa, it’s all about the “Biltong”; a form of dried treated meat spiced to perfection. There are various types of meat (from beef, game meats, to fillets of an Ostrich) used to produce this meal. Biltong Recipe 1. Beef (commercially packaged). 2. Various spices of choice (coriander, salt, black pepper, sugar). 3. Vinegar. 4. Baking soda. Preparation Cut the meat into bite-sized pieces best suitable to you (be sure to remove all excess fat). Marinate meat in a vinegar solution for a few hours, then pour off the vinegar before you spice the meat. Sprinkle the spices over the meat and rub all over. The Source: Buzz South Africa Online meat should then be left for a few hours, or refrigerated for a couple of hours. Before the meat is hung to dry, pour off any excess liquid. A traditional slow dry will have the biltong ready in about 4 days. Although oven dried is ready to eat a day or two after preparation. Traditional biltong makers still consider the slow dried meat safer and of the best quality. Boerewors Boerewors, known as one of the best in the world; is a popular South African food. The name is gotten from the Afrikaans words boer (which means “farmer”) and wors (which means “sausage”). Boerewors Recipe 1. Beef, as well as lamb, pork or a mixture. 2. Various spices of choice (coriander, salt, black pepper, sugar). 3. Red wine (dry) or vinegar. 4. Sausage casings. Preparation Mince all beef and pork, then fill the casing. Boerewors are usually grilled outdoors, in Source: Buzz South Africa Online an oven or pan-fried. Whichever process you go with, don’t let it burn.
Seafood A lot of Seafood is found along the South African Atlantic and Indian Ocean coastlines. Lobster, octopus and the Hake fish are popular seafood selections. They are usually enjoyed with chips, boiled/baked potatoes, corn and lots more.
MAY 2019 84 |85
FOOD
Some of South Africa’s most iconic foods Eat Out on’t listen to these guys at Buzzfeed; they’re doing it wrong. To truly enjoy South African food, you have to actually be in South Africa. It’s all about shared history, your surroundings, and the people with whom you’ve gathered to break (braai) bread. So, here it is: the guide to essential foods that all visitors – and residents – should taste when on our gorgeous shores. Amagwinya/vetkoek It’s a ball of dough; it’s fried; it’s filled. Vetkoek really lives up to its name, meaning ‘fat cake’. Favourite fillings include spiced mince, apricot jam and grated cheese, or polony.
D
Biltong You can buy these strips of umami-rich dried and spiced meat – usually beef, kudu or ostrich – at almost any supermarket or corner café – but our particular favourite comes from Cape Town-based butchery, Frankie Fenner. Biltong is best enjoyed with a beer while watching sport, but if you’re in the Winelands and want a more elegant introduction, try the halloumi steak topped with green olive relish, Cape Gooseberries and crisp shaved biltong at Babel.
Source: Buzz South Africa Online Melktert (Milk Tart) Melktert, Afrikaans for “milk tart”, is a South African dessert consisting of a sweet pastry crust. South African Desserts A typical South African dessert will include a variety of colorful fruit mixes, such as grapes, melons, peaches, citrus, apricots, just to name a few. Dried fruits are some of the popular desserts known and exported to many countries all over the world from South Africa. The South African apricot jam pudding and buttermilk pudding are great examples of the sweet, rich taste of the South African desserts which are available in various flavors. Some traditional desserts include cookies, South African rusks, and Koeksisters. South African tarts (melktert, brandy tart, rum and raisin tart) are famous for their varieties. Some other desserts include; the date cake, banana caramel pie and the brandy squares served with chocolate sauce.
NOW & THEN
Vetkoek Source: Eat Out Online Bobotie This traditional Cape Malay dish comprises gently spiced minced lamb or beef topped with an egg-and-milk layer and browned in the oven. Some recipes call for the addition of apple, raisins or apricot jam and the sweetness works well with the curry powder and turmeric that lend the dish its golden colour.
Melktert Recipe 1. Milk. 2. Margarine. 3. Sugar. 4. Flour 5. Salt. 6. Vanilla extract. 7. Cornstarch. Preparation 1. Mix the margarine and sugar together and stir in the egg. 2. Add the flour and salt and knead until the dough is soft. 3. Press the mixture into a greased pie dish and bake at 176.6 °C for 15 minutes. 4. Boil the milk and margarine. 5. Mix the sugar, egg, cornstarch, flour and vanilla extract. 6. Add some of the hot milk to the mix, and then pour it back into the pot and heat gently until it thickens. 7. Pour the filling into the pie crust and cool. 8. Refrigerate.
Biltong Source: Eat Out Online
Bobotie Source: Eat Out Online
MAY 2019 86 |87
SA restaurant chain cashes in on cannabis craze to offer dagga pizzas
FOOD
Restaurant chain Col'Cacchio has served its first batch of cannabis pizza to Cape Town residents.
Col'Cacchio teamed up with CBD oil maker africanpure to bring South Africa its first dagga pizza, which the chain says is safe for children. Source: Times Live Online Times Live Online ol'Cacchio teamed up with CBD oil maker africanpure to bring South Africans its first dagga pizza. Col'Cacchio co-founder Kinga Baranowska said two gourmet pizzas will be drizzled with africanpure CBD oil, which contains no Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) or synthetic chemicals, "making it absolutely safe to enjoy". The department of health announced CBD can now be legally purchased in the country, provided the maximum daily dose of CBD is under 20mg. The pizza company's "Green Goddess" and the "Not-So-Plain Mary Jane" will be sold at R125 and R140. Customers will also be able to add CBD oil to any other dish from its menu at an additional cost of R25. Col'Cacchio said the dagga pizza has no age restrictions and is suitable for children. Baranowska said the company always aimed to be innovative and to ensure its menu was in line with latest "health positive" trends. "We love to stay ahead of the curve and are extremely proud to be the first restaurant in SA to launch a cannabis pizza." Africanpure co-founder Mike Saunders said they were "thrilled" be at the forefront of the cannabis story in the country and to be working with a restaurant franchise group. The new cannabis pizza range is available at all Col'Cacchio restaurants, excluding the Windhoek branch and Halaal restaurants.
C
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 90 |91
FEATURE
Dabbling in weed could be good for democracy
The Cannabis Expo at Grand West Arena on April 05, 2019 in Cape Town, South Africa. In just less than a year since the home use of cannabis was legalized, Cape Town is hosted an expo where, more than 100 exhibitors showcased a variety of cannabis-related products and services from all sectors in the industry including health care, medicinal, growing, harvesting and processing technologies, product retailers and innovators, legislation groups and government. Source: Sabina Mexicanna Online Ruan Jooste t appears that cannabis’s moment has arrived. Lobbyists agree that the time has come for it to emerge from the shadows and start flourishing, not just as a crop, but as an investment opportunity. Benefits for both the fiscus and business owners could, well, high. The world cannabis business could reach upwards of US$630-billion in market value by 2040 — and that has investors reaching for their rizlas. But one African country is lagging. Guess which. It seems global governments and their citizens are now starting to better understand marijuana’s value proposition: Health and wellness benefits — some of which are yet to be fully understood — along with financial and economic benefits from the taxation and regulation of business. North American industry especially is responding rapidly, scaling up its asset base, building brands and creating strategic partnerships. Africa is also awakening to the possibilities. Independent journalist and cannabis activist Kevin Bloom says: “There is a spectrum that sort of roams from decriminalisation in certain aspects to full legalisation. We have about 20 to 25 countries in the world and counting. There is a very
I
NOW & THEN
definite global movement towards legalisation and towards recognition of the properties of this plant.” He adds that when you see the legalisation in countries such as Canada and Uruguay, “you can expect that many countries are going to follow suit in the next two, three years”. As most governments move to legalise cannabis by 2025, the Cannabis Consumer Research Team at Seaport Global Securities believes that the world cannabis market can reach upwards of US$630-billion in market value by 2040. Inside of this forecast, they believe that the adult-use market can approach US$325-billion, while the medical and ingredient market can approach US$305-billion. The team believes that Asia has the potential to be the largest regional cannabis market in the world, followed by greater Europe and North America including Mexico. They forecast Africa will be worth US$24.127-billion by that stage. Lesotho has already emerged as an unlikely hotspot for global cannabis production. In 2017, Lesotho became the first African nation to legalise the growth of cannabis for medicinal and research purposes. The tiny kingdom’s economy is reliant on South Africa, with water and diamonds the coun-
try’s biggest exports. Jee-A van der Linde, an economist at NKC African Economics, told Business Report that the kingdom was brimming with potential and looked to become Africa’s staging ground for medical marijuana businesses with its friendly policy environment. “While the formal cannabis industry is arguably still in its infancy, the kingdom could unlock even more foreign investment over the next few years. This, in turn, could lead to more job creation for Basotho workers, assist in diversifying the economy and possibly see Lesotho emerge as a leading player on the global cannabis scene,” he was quoted as saying. Zimbabwe followed suit in 2018, making dagga for medicinal and research purposes lawful, and a year later Precision Cannabis Therapeutics Zimbabwe received approval for its cannabis licence in early March 2019, which will make it the first in the country to be permitted to commercially produce medical marijuana. Malawi is set to become the latest African country to legalise dagga farming in a bid to boost its economy. It comes as its major foreign exchange earner, tobacco, starts to see the impact of a decades-long global anti-smoking lobby. The country’s parliament has drafted a bill on legalising industrial and medicinal hemp which is expected to be tabled with the national assembly shortly. In South Africa, by contrast, the commercial production of recreational marijuana and related products is still illegal. The political will to change this, or embrace any other developments and/or opportunities related to this crop, also seems to be lacking. Yes, a Constitutional Court ruling in 2018 gave the green light to private cannabis cultivation and use among adults, and yes, SA opened its first medical marijuana dispensary in the same year. Yes, the current legislature grants licensing to commercially grow cannabis for medicinal purposes, and yes, the House of Hemp was the first to be awarded a Cannabis Cultivation Licence for medical purposes from the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority in the first week of April 2019. And a final yes to Finance Minister Tito Mboweni’s mention in his Budget speech of envisioned change in policy regarding the cannabis industry so that it could become a potential source of revenue. But that is where the buck stops, and the lack of a clear policy is showing the cracks of government’s current approach to the matter. Wandile Sihlobo, agricultural economist and head of research at Agbiz, says conditions and boundaries of what the crop could mean for the economy and industry still need to be considered and legislated. He says there is no official research or studies available to policymakers to make educated decisions. The pure focus on the recreational side — referring to the Constitutional Court ruling among other things — was a mistake, Sihlobo says. “There have been unintended consequences. More energy needs to be spent on commercial opportunities and tied up with the medicinal side. “The decriminalisation for private use might not be where the commercial value lies. The focus should rather be on exploring the possible benefits for the country through the controlled international trade in cannabis and its products
and medicinal-use purposes in the domestic market,” he adds. Sihlobo says the Department of Agriculture should be the driver of such research, which is consistent with the aspirations of the country. “We talk about agriculture being a focus area to drive economic growth and create jobs — why not investigate whether there is value in cultivating marijuana and related products like hemp, and back it up with scientific research?” He says cannabis as an economically viable cash crop is new to everyone, and like the rest of the world, we need to clearly define the rules of the game, before entering it. “We need to ask ourselves if Lesotho and Malawi are starting to issue licences, what are we missing? If the US is establishing an industry, why aren’t we? If China is making over US$1-billion a year from exporting hemp, why aren’t we looking into that?” asks Sihlobo. He refers to the local financial industry with the emergence of Bitcoin and blockchain. “When cryptocurrencies and the underlying technology became an apparent local industry, the Reserve Bank and tax authorities immediately commissioned research into both fields. They investigated the impact on the industry and the ways to harvest the benefits for local institutions and government. Why have the agricultural sector and related policymakers not done the same when it comes to the growing of cannabis phenomenon?” “The department’s annual value chain study it releases on every crop cultivated in the country could be the perfect platform to include such research,” Sihlobo says. “I am not arguing for any particular policy position regarding cannabis, but rather for increased research that would assist policymakers in evaluating the benefits, and possible unintended consequences, of growing and trading cannabis. The research should take stock of the changing perceptions surrounding this crop globally, as well as its growing demand and commercial value.” Flying blind and being complacent about the fact has already brought unintended consequences. Bloom says rural farmers are increasingly being locked out of the market. He says the green rush has fallen heavily on commercial interest and government has done nothing to change that. “The market has been flooded following the Constitutional Court case with every Tom, Dick and Harry growing ‘weed’ in their backyard. Not to mention big commercial players like Bayer and Monsanto — the company which provides the poison to the police to eradicate illegal dagga fields currently — wanting to enter the space. So around 900,000 traditional growers, who have been doing this for many years in the Eastern Cape and Pondoland, and who keep the body and soul of 3-4 million people alive, are being increasingly excluded from the system. “None of the legislative progress matters if traditional growers can’t sell their crop,” Bloom says. “Government has done nothing to help them. Mboweni’s Budget proclamation, Rob Davies and the Department of Trade and industry’s report: The economic growth potential of the cannabis plant and the Cannabis Development Council of South Africa’s vow of empowering traditional farmers have turned out to be hot air. It is all talk and no action and
MAY 2019 92|93
has turned out to be a national tragedy.” “There is also a lot of vested interest and corruption in the current system that authorities haven’t even got their heads around, not even mentioning weeding it out,” he says. The licensing practice as it stands is already a contentious issue. The South African Institute of Race Relations (SAIRR) has been vocal about the slow progress in this regard. It says the country will lose out on the potential growth prospects if feet continue to be dragged. “It’s an enormous global market. SA is already behind the likes of Lesotho on so on in promoting commercial cultivation. It could be a major export crop and earner of revenue, especially for smaller producers. We would recommend that policymakers move with haste to position SA to play a leading role in the global marijuana market. From a legislative reform perspective, a lot of good could be done here by granting growing permits to small scale producers in poorer areas of the country. But lawmakers are asleep on this issue,” the SAIRR says. That is its second argument. Its primary argument is the pro-liberty one. Gabriel Crouse, an associate at the SAIRR, says the lobby situation is complex. South Africans have proven rather conservative, and the view on drugs is a hard one. “In our Q3 2018 demographically representative poll we had an open-ended question on biggest two concerns in SA. Drugs and related abuse came in second. Jobs topped the list by a considerable margin (47%), followed by concerns about drugs and drug abuse (23%) and crime (20%). The latter is closely linked to drug abuse as well.” He says the community needs to be better educated on the wealth of benefits that investment in the cannabis market can bring. “It is not just about allowing people to get high, and it is going much further than medical treatment.
”The estimated yield per square foot, as estimated by Seabrooke for American farmers, could be much higher in South Africa, Crouse says, not to mention cheaper input costs. The focus will be outdoor, which is much cheaper to cultivate. “We have the space, the appropriate weather and the established know-how among rural farmers. “If we could tap into the future US$123-billion North American cannabis market, when cannabis will be fully legalised by 2021, with primary produce exports, and back it up with beneficiation products such as vaping oils and hemp thread, for example, it will be a game-changer for the South African economy,” he says. “Where we have the upper hand on our African neighbours is that we have the ports and distribution networks in place and we are hooked up to Agoa,” says Crous, “and we need to exploit that advantage sooner than later.” Where competition from other countries is concerned, our low-cost labour and our proximity to Europe in relation to other continents such as Asia or South America will entice investors. “Tackling some of the existing issues hindering the efforts to exploit the cannabis crop for the greater good could see large-scale hemp production to build RDP houses, a revitalisation of the manufacturing industry with hemp fibre and punting unique recreational products like Pondo Gold. “We also have enough capacity to beneficiate via the CSIR. The Department of Science and Technology and the University of the Free State are already looking into it. So, what are we waiting for?” says Crous.
28, 29 February â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 2020 28 February - The Ostrich Farm - Cape Town 29 February - Expo Centre, Nasrec - Johannesburg
PEOPLE
Inside Kurt Cobain's Final Days Before His Suicide The Nirvana rocker was in a downward spiral that led to his death on April 5, 1994.
Kurt Cobain crowd surfing at a Nirvana concert in Germany Source: Paul Bergen/Redferns Brad Witter irvana frontman Kurt Cobain’s close friend, Mark Lanegan, hadn’t heard from the rocker for about a week in April 1994 when he began to fear the worst. “Kurt hadn’t called me,” he told Rolling Stone later that year. “He hadn’t called some other people. He hadn’t called his family. He hadn’t called anybody... I had a feeling that something real bad had happened.” Lanegan’s intuition proved to be correct. On the morning of April 8, an electrician found 27-year-old Cobain dead of an apparent suicide in a greenhouse above the garage of his Seattle home. According to Rolling Stone, a 20-gauge shotgun was lying across his chest, and, as a medical examiner’s report later revealed, Cobain, who had already been dead two and a half days at that point, had a high concentration of heroin and traces of Valium in his bloodstream. The magazine also reported that he was identifiable only by his fingerprints. Cobain wanted to quit Nirvana Because he had been missing for six days prior to his dead body being discovered, many tried to piece together the last days of Cobain’s life. By all accounts, he had already been in a
N
NOW & THEN
downward spiral for years before he died, battling depression and chronic drug addiction. In an interview with MTV, Cobain’s wife, Courtney Love, claimed that not long before her husband’s suicide, he told her that he hated being in Nirvana and couldn’t play with them anymore and only wanted to work with R.E.M.’s Michael Stipe. All things considered, his loved ones’ alarm reached a fever pitch. His loved ones staged an intervention In fact, following Cobain’s failed suicide attempt in March 1994, Love, along with several of his friends and bandmates, enlisted the help of intervention counselor Steven Chatoff. “They called me to see what could be done,” Chatoff explained to Rolling Stone. “He was using, up in Seattle. He was in full denial. It was very chaotic. And they were in fear for his life. It was a crisis.” In late March, Love, Nirvana’s Krist Novoselic and Pat Smear, along with several other friends went through with staging an intervention at Cobain’s home. During the meeting, Love reportedly threatened to leave Cobain, with whom she shared daughter Frances Bean, and his band also issued an ultimatum of breaking up the band, should he not agree to seek treatment at a rehabilitation facility.
Cobain bought a shotgun six days before using it to kill himself Several days later, Cobain would do just that, but first, he paid a visit to pal Dylan Carlson, who also participated in the aforementioned intervention, at his Seattle home on March 30. Citing problems with trespassers on his property, Cobain asked for help securing a firearm. “He seemed normal, we’d been talking,” Carlson later said. “Plus, I’d loaned him guns before.” Per Carlson, Cobain gave him about $300 to buy a 20-gauge shotgun and a box of ammunition from Stan’s Gun Shop. Knowing that Cobain was about to depart for treatment near Los Angeles, Carlson said that his friend’s need for the purchase did give him pause: “It seemed kind of weird that he was buying the shotgun before he was leaving. So I offered to hold on to it until he got back.” Cobain, however, insisted on keeping the weapon himself, and, according to police, he likely dropped off the gun at his home before traveling to Exodus Recovery Center in Marina del Rey, California, later that day. He spent two days in rehab before fleeing the treatment center On April 1, Cobain phoned Love with a cryptic message. According to an account, the Hole frontwoman gave a local Seattle newspaper, he said, in part, “Just remember no matter what, I love you.” Later that night — after spending just two days in rehab — staffers said he alerted them that he was stepping out to smoke a cigarette on the patio. Love explained that’s when he allegedly jumped over a more than six-feethigh brick wall and disappeared. Police suspect he flew back to Seattle where he spent his final days wandering, with neighbors claiming to have spotted an ill-looking Cobain in a park near his home dressed in a heavy coat, which they deemed inappropriate for the April weather. Others have suggested he may have spent a night with an unidentified friend at his nearby summer home. An electrician discovered Cobain's body more than two days after he shot himself By April 5, however, law enforcement officials believe Cobain had barricaded himself inside
Kurt Cobain's suicide note Source: Paul Bergen/Redferns the greenhouse where an electrician who came to the home to install a security system discovered his body, days later. Love later recounted to MTV that after taking drugs, Cobain used the shotgun Carlson had helped him purchase days earlier to shoot himself in the head, thus ending his short life. She also said that her husband left a note in red ink that she read from at a Seattle memorial service. The loss of the talented musician remained unimaginable for his adoring fans, as well as all of those who knew him personally. "I remember the day after that I woke up and I was heartbroken that he was gone,” Nirvana drummer Dave Grohl later recalled. "I just felt like, 'Okay, so I get to wake up today and have another day and he doesn't.'"
MAY 2019 98|99
PEOPLE
#30Under30: Creatives Category 2019
2. Rophnan Nuri, 29, Ethiopia
T
his year marks the fifth milestone annual FORBES AFRICA 30 under 30 list, and we have introduced a new category of game-changers. Together, they are 120 in total across four sectors: business, technology, creatives and sport. Meet the class of 2019, a stellar collection of entrepreneurs and innovators rewriting rules and taking bold new risks to take Africa to the future. Karen Mwendera *This article doesn't include all categories of the FORBES AFRICA 30 under 30 list and the list is in no particular order
1. Karabo Poppy Moletsane, 27, South Africa Creative Illustrator, Street Artist and Graphic Designer Not only is Karabo Poppy Moletsane an artist aiming for the skies, but you can see some of her work from there too. In the Zoo Lake public park in Johannesburg, two basketball courts are adorned with her creativity. From a bird’s eye-view, you can see one in blue with a crocodile on it and another in turquoise with a cheetah on it. Together with another local artist, they designed the courts in collaboration with Nike. Moletsane is also responsible for tagging the famous landmark in Soweto, the Soweto Towers, which can be seen miles away and has become a source of kasi (township) pride. Moletsane’s goal has been to put black female illustrators on the map. In 2015, she turned her passion for art into a business and founded Mother Tongue-Creative House which is now trading under her own name, Karabo Poppy. “This was a five-year journey that started with me only having one month of work experience, living with family and friends, and chartering my own course without scripts for success,” she tells FORBES AFRICA. She has won three Loerie Awards over the course of her career, and her work has been recognized as part of a Grammy-nominated music video Makeba, by French singer and artist, Jain. Poppy was also the first black female artist to paint the Art Wall in the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive in California. For international woman’s day in March 2018, she was also the artist behind the sequential Google doodle. Her contribution to the world has been contemporary African aesthetics and she continues to do so.
NOW & THEN
Rophnan Nuri, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Electronic Dance Music Artist At the age of 10, Rophnan Nuri released his first mixtape, singing and playing the drums with his classmates, and he has not stopped moving to his own beat since. He self-funded his career with the money he made as a club DJ and over the years, he learned the technical side of music and produced his own distinct sound. “I was always fascinated by the fusion of different instruments and voices, and created a unique niche for myself by amalgamating traditional Ethiopian sounds from the past with futurist electronic music,” he says. Nuri’s talent also saw him being one of the three African DJs chosen by South African DJ, Black Coffee, to perform in Ibiza Spain in 2017. In 2018, he received awards in three categories at the 2018 Leza Awards in Ethiopia. In the same year, he featured on a song titled Get To Work by Major Lazer, a popular American electronic dance music trio. Despite his global impact, Nuri says he will always stay true to his Ethiopian roots, one of the reasons why he is most loved by his fellow Ethiopians. “Getting recognition and support in my home country is unparalleled. My ability to engineer traditional instruments and merge them with popular sounds has earned me incredible support in the form of sold-out performances,” he says, He continues to share his love for music through the Ethiopian DJ Association, nurturing up-and-coming talent.
3. Henry Amponsah, 27, Ghana
Karabo Poppy Moletsane, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Motlabana Monnakgotla
Designer, Founder and CEO: 101 Clothing Henry Amponsah knew he was going to be a designer from a young age. “I remember when I told my mum I wanted to be a designer in the future, she angrily said, ‘what will be the use of gaining education only to be sitting in a container sewing clothes for chicken change?’ That got me laughing out loud and I said to myself ‘I will prove this lady wrong in the future’,” he tells FORBES AFRICA. And Amponsah did just that. While in high school, he and four friends had a photoshoot with outfits that cost $150 and they posted the photos on social media. “The collection went viral and clients started talking to me,” Amponsah says. The recognition pushed him to officially start his business, 101 Clothing, in 2014, and the rest was a stitch in time. Today, Amponsah has dressed Samira Bawumia, the wife of Ghana’s Vice President. He also runs a foundation that helps with basic school equipment and workshops. To date, he has received over 10 local and international awards and featured in many magazines including British Vogue magazine. In the end, Amponsah managed to fulfil his dream and that of his mom’s; he built his fashion house and his now gunning for a PhD.
Henry Amponsah, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
MAY 2019 102|103
PEOPLE 6. Kapasa Musonda, 29, Zambia
4. Austin Malema, 28, South Africa
Austin Malema, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Photographer and CEO: Pixel Kollective While some opt to invest in shares or property, Austin Malema opted to invest in memories and everything clicked into place. Instead of celebrating his 21st birthday with a party, he used the money to buy his first camera, which cost R18,000 ($1,200). He began shooting at events, which led to more bookings and he realized that the lens gave him greater access to musicians, actors and prominent people. Since then, Malema has photographed for many brands globally and for events such as the South African Music Awards, the South African Film and Television Awards and the Global Citizen Festival. His work has also led to him photographing popular musicians such as Drake, Joey BadA$$, AKA, Casper Nyovest, Beyoncé and Jay-Z. In 2018, when FORBES AFRICA 2018 30 Under 30 alumni, Thuso Mbedu, was nominated for an International Emmy, he was her official photographer in New York. Apart from his exposure, Malema has turned his passion for photography into a business. Last year, he founded his first company, Pixel Kollective, with his two partners, Kelly Leuuw and Sivuyile Matsiliza. “My biggest dream is for the company to represent young black photographers around South Africa,” he tells FORBES AFRICA.
5.Harmony Katulondi, 29, DRC Presenter, Model, Actor and Voice Over Artist Harmony Katulondi is a jack of all trades, and definitely a name to remember. The Democratic Republic of the Congo-born presenter first fell in love with acting and presenting when he moved to South Africa as a toddler. “I remember going over lines with my parents and stepping into new worlds every time I got on to the stage. I loved the smiles, joy and awe it brought into people’s eyes when they saw me,” he says. However, when he was in university, it was nothing close to that feeling. One day, while studying, a friend told him of a casting gig where they needed tall people. He applied and it turned out to be African Fashion International. “I got there, walked, and they loved it, but I needed an agent. They told me to go upstairs and I signed with my current agency and so the casting life began. Commercial here, fashion week and catalogues there. That lead to TV shows, stints on Generations: The Legacy, and Skeem Saam,” he tells FORBES AFRICA. However, there was one goal he aimed to achieve; being a Top Billing presenter. Katulondi auditioned for the Top Billing presenter search three times and didn’t make it. Disappointed, this prompted him to start his own company in 2016, Harmony Katulondi Pty Ltd, a creative consultancy company. Two years later, the presenter search came around again but Katulondi was not eager until his friends pushed him to. In the end, Katulondi got the part. His talent saw him doing voice-overs for the Black Panther movie campaign. He is also the founder of a non-profit called Just Love to help those in need by doing outreaches such as feeding schemes, Harmony Katulondi, member of Forbes Africa 30 unfundraising, skills development and environmental clean-ups. der 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
NOW & THEN
Kapasa Musonda, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Fashion Designer In 2011, Kapasa Musonda returned to a non-existent fashion industry in her home country, Zambia, after living in the US for six years. She had just obtained her Associate of Arts Advanced Study degree with a Magna Cum Laude, but had nowhere to use it. “I had no choice but to open my own design business if I was to survive and make a living at what I knew best,” she says. This birthed her business and fashion house, Mangishi Doll, that same year. It is a Zambian ‘Afro-Eclectic’ clothing brand inspired by bold prints and an artistic expression of design and style. Along the way, Musonda has made enough money to hire two permanent tailors and train five women in advanced fashion design. In 2017, her garments were retailing at a boutique in Los Angeles and that caught the eyes of many US celebrities. Among them was iconic actor Angela Bassett, who wore her garments to the American Black Film Festival Honours in Hollywood. “We were elated and honored and after Angela Bassett wore our piece, we had the biggest growth spurt we had ever experienced,” she says. It was not long before the BET Awards 2018 invited her for an exclusive fashion event where she presented a 24-piece collection. From a three-year-old armed with a sewing machine, to taking on the world with couture and elegance, Musonda continues to put African print on the map.
7. Richard Akuson, 26, Nigeria Founder and Editor: A Nasty Boy Richard Akuson’s activism for LGBTQ+ and challenging gender norms resulted in him being named one of the 40 most powerful people in Nigeria under the age of 40 in the 2017 YNaijaPower List. He founded A Nasty Boy, a magazine that is a fashion platform celebrating alternative and creative ideas, forms of expression and lifestyles, particularly in the LGBTQ+ community. It was named one of Vogue’s ‘What to Read This Fall’ in 2017. “That’s pretty radical, given the political climate and culture there,” Vogue said. Akuson is a lawyer by profession, but dove into this creative activism after experiencing a brutal homophobic attack. He sought asylum in the US and grew his platform into a global brand. A Nasty Boy has since created a safe space to have meaningful conversations for people persecuted for being part of the LGBTQ+ community. But Akuson plans to take it a step further. “Through collaborations with American institutions, I’d like to focus my time as a licensed American lawyer on pro-LGBTQ+ rights policy advocacy in Africa,” he tells FORBES AFRICA. He is currently writing a memoir about his journey to the US and co-producing as well as co-directing a documentary series about the lived experiences of African asylum-seekers in the US. Richard Akuson, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
MAY 2019 104|105
PEOPLE
Menzi Mcunu, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Founder: Afrocentric Gentlemvn Menzi Mcunu is one of South Africa’s best-dressed young men, and he gets paid for it. His notable look is a well-tailored suit, tie, top hat and a swag oozing elegance and grace. Not bad for a 22-year-old. He has graced the covers of, not one, but two magazines and his biggest highlight was being part of GQ South Africa’s Best Dressed Men for 2017. Internationally, he has attended Milan Fashion Week in 2018 and has been featured on Vogue Italia, GQ Russia and GQ Australia. It all started when he visited Mumbai, India, in 2013. He was inspired by the Indian culture and its attention to detail in fashion. As a result, he founded Afrocentric Gentlemvn, an African lifestyle brand that merges European aesthetics and African elegance with suit measurement and creative consultancy services. “I knew nothing about the technical side or production side of selling garments but I wanted to depict suits differently. I didn’t want them to just be suits like the ones I saw at many retailers but I wanted them to represent a lifestyle,” he tells FORBES AFRICA. Mcunu plans to grow his platform, Afrocentric Gentlemvn, globally. He has also been interested in the development of African luxury and African fashion on the continent.
9. Trevor Stuurman, 26, South Africa Photographer and Creative Director CNN describes Trevor Stuurman as a cultural force, and indeed he has illustrated that. Living up to these titles, he has had the opportunity to document former US President, Barack Obama, The Carters (Beyoncé and Jay Z) as well his mentor and someone he considers a sister, Naomi Campbell. He was born and raised in the diamond city of Kimberley in South Africa’s Northern Cape. After studying film, he was drawn to a different medium of visual arts – photography. As a result, he became a self-taught photographer; in fact, one of South Africa’s most sought-after photographers. “The more I leave home, the more I realize the power and currency that home has. And I think that it makes me a better story-teller because I am able to find pieces of home wherever I go and then create tangible products,” he says. This essence of belonging inspired him to host his first solo exhibition titled Home, a love letter to the Himba women of Namibia, at the HAZARD Gallery in Johannesburg. He has received recognition such as being on GQ South Africa’s Most Connected and Most Influential Man list 2018, Mail and Guardian’s Top 200 Young South Africans 2015, and Destiny Magazine’s Power of 40 List. Stuurman is also a contributor to British Vogue. He plans to have his work live in museums and art galleries around the world and ultimately, to cultivate a space for more young story-tellers on the continent to share their lived African Trevor Stuurman, member of Forbes Africa 30 experiences through their own lenses. under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
NOW & THEN
Musician Early this year, Burna Boy took his Nigerian music fire to the US and ended up selling out the iconic Apollo Theatre in New York City where previous African legends like Fela Kuti, Miriam Makeba and Black Coffee were once hosted. He was also one of the major artists to perform this year at Coachella, one of the world’s biggest music and arts festival. Born Damini Ogulu, he is undoubtedly one of the hottest African recording artists right now and a name to remember. The Afro-fusion singer and songwriter rose to fame after his lead single Like to Party was released in 2012. Since then, he has moved to his own beat, releasing hit after hit each year. Some of the world’s favorites include Dangote, Ye, On the Low, Soke, and Hallelujah, each reaching over three million views on YouTube. Of the many accolades, he has won Best Album of the Year, Best Pop Artist of the Year at the Nigerian Entertainment Awards in 2015, and recently received four awards at the Soundcity MVP Awards Festival. His third studio album Outside was hailed by Pulse Nigeria and Nigerian Entertainment Today as the best Nigerian album of 2018.
10.Burna Boy, 28, Nigeria
8. Menzi Mcunu, 22, South Africa
Burna Boy, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
11. Kim Jayde, 28, Zimbabwe
TV Presenter, Model and MC It’s not every day that one gets to meet the world’s biggest names such as Charlize Theron, Naomi Campbell, Major Lazer, Ciara, Paris Hilton, Tyler Perry and Trevor Noah. But Harare-born Kim Jayde has. Since she moved to South Africa, she has been landing major gigs, making her undoubtedly one of Zimbabwe’s ‘it girls’ at the moment. You may have seen her on your screens on MTV Base Africa as a presenter, but she has also worked with brands like Revlon, Coca-Cola, Ackermans, Accessorize (London) and more. “My story of being discovered by MTV Africa on Instagram and then going on to become the face of the channel is proof that anything is possible, with hard work, dedication and passion,” she says. Among the many awards was the Media Personality of The Year at the 2018 Zimbabwe Achievers Awards. She was also listed as one of the 40 Under 30 class of Emerging Zimbabwe Leaders by Gumiguru and not to mention took home her first international award for Woman in Media at the fifth annual Zimbabwe International Women’s Awards. However, when the cameras aren’t rolling, Jayde still uses her degree in social work contributing to the Home of Hope For Girls; something she has always been passionate about.
Kim Jayde, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
MAY 2019 106|107
PEOPLE
12. Petite Noir, 28, DRC Singer, Songwriter and Producer From the African soil to some of the world’s greatest stages, Petite Noir embodies a modern African renaissance through his music and art. He once opened for American Grammy award-winning singer Solange Knowles while she was on her 2013 US tour and performed at the South by Southwest festival in Texas. “I really started to fall in love with music at the age of 15. It was something that I automatically felt drawn to, so much so that I immersed myself in various music projects as much as I could,” Noir tells FORBES AFRICA. In 2012, he released his first single Till We Ghosts, which caught the eye of a music manager in the UK and wasting no time, Noir moved there. The next year was his big break. He signed a £80,000 ($103,305) deal and embarked on his first world tour, which spanned Africa, the UK, Europe and America. “I toured with Solange and Foals [British rock band]; I played at festivals with line-ups that included the likes of Kendrick Lamar, Angélique Kidjo and many more,” he says. Since then, his career has been nothing short of greatness. Among some of his accolades is the South African Music Award 2016 for Best Alternative Album for La Vie Est Belle/Life is Beautiful. The same year, he also received recognition for the album artwork and the video Best exhibited in the African art gallery at Harvard University.
14.Karun 24, Kenya
Musician You might know Karun from the pop trio Kenyan group Camp Mulla, nominated for a BET Award in the US in 2012. But this alternative R&B pop artist is now taking on the world solo and is one of Kenya’s rising new wave artists. Born Karungari Mungai, she started her music career at 14 and went on to attend the prestigious Berklee College of Music in the US. Since then, she has had the opportunity to perform at live festivals and shows across the globe such as the SXSW 2015 (Austin TX) as part of the collective Cosmic Homies. Karun also performed at the Madaraka Festival (Seattle), Blankets & Wine in Kenya and most recently, the Africa Nouveau Festival, Kenya’s most forward-thinking electric three-day music festival. She has been covered by publications such as The Fader and OkayAfrica and local Kenyan publications such as The Daily Nation. The young artist is currently working on a full-length project, and is in the process of planning a pan-African and northern hemisphere tour. “The goal is to be the biggest female R&B act out of Africa. Watch this space,” she tells us.
Petite Noir, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied Karun, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
13. Aisha Baker, 29, South Africa Businesswoman, Influencer and Style Icon There are a few names that have become synonymous with South Africa’s authority in the digital beauty industry and Aisha Baker is one of them. Baker founded BakedOnline in 2009 when the blogging trend was fledgling in South Africa. “I loved fashion, since I was introduced to Vogue Pattern books by my seamstress grandmother; I also loved literature and writing. It was a natural progression for me,” she tells FORBES AFRICA. At the age of 20, she began monetizing it. “I had accidentally formed a media company without knowing. Having one employee at the time, my photographer Tegan Smith, who worked only for petrol money and great images,” she says. For one year, Baker worked a nine-to-five job at an embroidery factory to fund her business and would shoot content for her blog on weekends. It was a stressful time. “I got admitted to the ER because I thought I was having a heart attack. Turns out it was an ulcer caused by stress,” she says. Ten years later, her brand has since stayed relevant and picked up some awards along the way. She graced the cover of the 2018 influencer issue of Cosmopolitan South Africa. She has worked with brands such as Estée Lauder, MercedesBenz, Cotton, Mac, Woolworths and Microsoft to name a few. Most recently, she was awarded the E! Africa Social Media Award at their Pop of Culture awards.
NOW & THEN
15. Gilmore Moyo, 29, Zimbabwe Creative Director, Fashion Facilitator, Former TV & Radio Host and Founder: Paper Bag Africa Gilmore Moyo was named one of the 100 Most influential Zimbabweans Under 40 for 2018, alongside politician Nelson Chamisa and Minister of Sports, Arts and Recreation, Kirsty Coventry. Moyo is known for his contribution to the Zimbabwean media and art scene. He hosted and produced a radio show on Cliff Central, and also Thatha Wena, a conversational pan-African TV show. Apart from his on-air talent, he also founded Paper Bag Africa, a content creation, public relations and management company. His biggest highlight in the business was attaining a contract to manage the European Union Film Festival 2018 and 2019, which ran over five days and showcased 10 films. “Being an entrepreneur in Zimbabwe is the most difficult thing one has to go through. Funding is not available for you to grow your business and opportunities to attain money aren’t easily visible,” he reflects. Despite the challenges, he is optimistic about the future. “Our ultimate goal is to become the ‘go to’ establishment for authentic African content,” he says. Aisha Baker, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Gilmore Moyo, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
MAY 2019 108|109
PEOPLE 18. Helen Chukwu, 25, Nigeria
16. Boitumelo ‘Boity’ Thulo, 29, South Africa TV Host, Entrepreneur and Musician TV Host, Entrepreneur and Musician Boitumelo ‘Boity’ Thulo wanted to pursue a career in criminology and psychology, but instead, has become one of the most recognized stars in South Africa’s entertainment industry. To think that her career started almost 10 years ago when she was cast in a lead role in an advert for an international restaurant chain, Thulo has since dabbled in various parts of the entertainment industry including TV hosting, acting, and music. “There are so many highlights and standout moments in my career. But the one that always gives me goosebumps is my lead role on the Fergusons’ Rockville [in 2013]. That role is what paved the way to ‘Boity’ becoming a household name. I will forever be grateful to Connie and Shona Ferguson for believing in and trusting me with such a big role,” she says. Today, she also wears the entrepreneurial hat after founding Boity Toning Support, a weight loss supplement. Last year, Thulo recorded her debut single Wuz Dat featuring Nasty C, also a former FORBES AFRICA 30 under 30 list-maker. The song was nominated for best collaboration at the SA Hip Hop awards. Thulo stays right on script as she further pursues acting, music, as well as developing more health products and nutritional supplements. Boitumelo ‘Boity’ Thulo, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
NOW & THEN
Helen Chukwu, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
19. Luis Munana, 27, Namibia
17. Hermann Kamte, 27, Cameroon Architect, Founder and CEO: Hermann Kamte & Associates At 26, Hermann Kamte delivered a keynote speech alongside Rwandan President Paul Kagame and Egypt’s President, Abdel Fattah al-Sisi, during the Africa 2018 Forum at Sharm el Sheikh, in Egypt. He was invited to speak about the future of African cities from the perspective of a creative architect. This has been one of his biggest highlights to date and this is the only beginning. Kamte is an award-winning Cameroonian architect with flair. He founded Hermann Kamte & Associates, an architectural firm that provides design, landscape, education, research and development services. One of his most notable works is the ‘Lagos’ Wooden Tower’ that won him the American Architecture Award as well as the World Architecture Festival and Awards’ inaugural WAFX Prize in 2017, known as the world’s most forward-looking concept. “I think the desire to be an entrepreneur was very important alongside the fear to fail,” he says. “Being able to offer a useful service to the community is the first thing that drives my passion for architecture. I have to be a model for younger generations; I want to create a safe and secure environment for people, with sustainable projects,” he adds. Kamte is well on his way to building a better tomorrow.
Fashion Designer, Founder and CEO: Helen Couture Helen Chukwu is cut from a different cloth and it is no surprise that her designs have featured on Vogue Arabia. She started dressing up dolls as a child, and now dresses up brides for a living. At the age of 18, she became the founder and CEO of her design house, Helen Couture, which currently has operations in Nigeria, London and Dubai. One of her memorable highlights was a private showcase in London and having her dress worn by Katie Cleary, America’s Next Top Model Cycle 1 contestant, at the 2013 Oscar Party. She is currently in the process of stocking her products in two stores each in the US, France and Italy. She and her team have started drawing up plans to raise capital and build a 10,000 garment-production-per-day garment manufacturing factory in Nigeria by 2021.
Hermann Kamte, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Host and Founder: Voigush Africa You might remember his face from the ninth season of the reality television series Big Brother Africa, in 2014. Since then, Luis Munana has been able to use his reality TV star status to good use. Munana is a creative director of a children’s TV show he founded in 2017 called Waka Waka Moo. The original animated cartoon and puppet program became one of the first in Namibia. “I was baby-sitting my niece and nephew and I saw them recite every single word from cartoons created in the western world. So, I decided to create Namibia’s own cartoon and puppet show translated in all 11 Namibian languages. So, Waka Waka Moo was created,” he tells FORBES AFRICA. The animations educate children about Namibia’s history, culture and heritage. He has managed to expand Waka Waka Moo from being on TV to a tour reaching 44 rural primary schools in the country. As for the hosting side of his career, Munana founded Voigush Africa, a lifestyle, fashion and entertainment TV show in 2014 inspired by the South African entertainment market. “While studying in South Africa, I would go to auditions to shows like V Entertainment, Top Billing and MTV Base Africa but they would always tell me I am not South African. So, I came home and created my own show,” he says. Voigush has since covered music, lifestyle and fashion events across Africa which Munana produces, directs, scripts and edits himself.
Luis Munana, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
MAY 2019 110|111
PEOPLE 22. Joe ‘Human’ Nawaya, 25, DRC
20. Upile Chisala, 24, Malawi
Upile Chisala, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Author and Poet Upile Chisala started writing at the age of four. By the time she started primary school, there were piles of paper with little stories scattered around her house, in Zomba, Malawi, which was already chock-a-block with books. But it took her years to embrace her talent. After moving to the US, she studied sociology and graduated in 2015 but struggled to find a steady job. She turned to poetry for comfort and self-published her first book at the age of 21. It was her first collection of poetry called Soft Magic. She continued her studies and enrolled for an MSc in African studies at the University of Oxford. She revisited her writing and published a book called Nectar in 2017. This brought the opportunity to travel and do readings, but it was when she traveled to Johannesburg, South Africa, that her talent was reaffirmed. “The room was filled with over 200 people who didn’t mind that there were no seats left for them. They were happy to stand and listen to me read from both books,” she says. Next, she received an email from two Folio Literary Management agents in New York City. In no time, Chisala signed a three-book deal with Andrews McMeel Publishing worth ‘hundreds of thousands US dollars’. Since then, she founded Khala Series, a monthly mentorship program for writers in Johannesburg. All profits from this series are donated. “Khala is my way of giving back to the community,” she says.
23. Thando Thabethe, 29, South Africa
21. Joseph Awuah-Darko, 22, Ghana Contemporary Artist In a dump site in Ghana near its capital Accra, Joseph AwuahDarko stands holding a laptop in one hand and a face mask in another, like something out of an apocalypse movie. He is dressed in orange overalls and there is e-waste as far as the eye can see; and the burning of the contents creates arid smoke in the background. Darko is a contemporary artist, art collector and dealer and co-founder of the NGO, Agbogblo.Shine Initiative. The organization, which started in 2017, encourages people working at the dump to turn waste into high-end furniture. His aim was to highlight the importance of the, “circular economy in the face of electronic waste degradation”. While enrolled at Ashesi University in Ghana, he began educating himself about the obscure art market. His first major sale was a 3D-printed Ife Head he sold privately to a buyer for $11,000 in 2017. Since then, more clients kept coming, trading the value of trash wish cash and this resulted in him becoming the Managing Director of Africa Modern Art Fund at the young age of 22. He presented a solo exhibition at Gallery1957; making him the youngest African contemporary artist to do so. Prior to his contemporary art collector days, Darko was a musician under the alias ‘Okuntakinte’. Darko is well on his way to getting a piece of the estimated $60 billion global contemporary art industry.
NOW & THEN
Joe ‘Human’ Nawaya, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Joseph Awuah-Darko, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Actress, TV Presenter, and Radio DJ Thando Thabethe is a jack of all trades. She’s a prominent name in South Africa’s entertainment industry and has come to take it all. Her acting career rose to prominence in early 2014 after her role on the South African soapie, Generations: The Legacy. Her radio career dates back to the early days of 2008, having presented on the radio station of the University of Johannesburg. But today, both her radio and acting careers have blossomed. She currently has her own weekday radio show called The Thabooty Drive. As for her acting, she moved from the small screen to the big screen, starring in the 2016 film Mrs Right Guy, the 2018 film Housekeepers and most recently, the lead role in 2019’s box office hit Love Lives Here. This year, she was nominated for best TV host and best talk show for Thando Bares All, which aired on TLC, and she walked away with the award for Best Talk show. “Focus on your own focus. I think when you follow your heart and you follow your own passion, everything else follows and those that need recognize and follow it will,” she tells us. Some of her achievements include being nominated for a SAFTA as the Best TV Presenter and for the Liberty Radio Awards as Best Drive Time presenter and for Best Drive Time Show.
Graphic designer and Co-founder: Creative Mind Space Joe ‘Human’ Nawaya was once enrolled for a degree in design at Pearson Institute in South Africa. However, due to lack of finances, he had to drop out. “At this point, I concluded that my life had stopped, I wasn’t going to be able to be anybody or make something of myself,” he tells FORBES AFRICA. However, this is not the design of his life as he was named Fast Company SA’s Top 20 Under 25 thanks to his passion and determination to pursue his first love, graphics and design. His creative journey started when he was a child. When his parents bought him a computer, the first application he used was paint. Taking his passion to another level, he co-founded Creative Mind Space, together with his business partner Elliot Sithole. It is an agency that focuses on creating content, designs, strategies, animation, and websites for brands. Nawaya has been featured by Destiny Man as part of their Bold and Distinguished edition, positioning him as one of the most creative content creators in South Africa. Additionally, Nawaya went on to become a lifestyle ambassador for Bespoken Man, a gentleman grooming brand focused on lifestyle and experience. While there, he worked with brands like Jameson Irish Whiskey, MINI Cooper and Savanna Dry. Nawaya currently co-hosts #TheThreadedExchange with Siya Beyile, a former FORBES AFRICA 30 UNDER 30 list-maker, on CliffCentral. He has also recently launched a podcast called Pioneers vs Pretenders on Lutcha, a digital podcasting company, which hosts a variety of podcasts online.
Thando Thabethe, South Africa, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
MAY 2019 112|113
PEOPLE 26. Sho Madjozi, 27, South Africa
24. Rich Fumani Mnisi, 27, South Africa
Rich Fumani Mnisi, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Fashion Designer When Beyoncé Knowles-Carter came to South Africa for the Global Citizen Festival in December, she was spotted wearing items of clothing by local designer Rich Mnisi. She was adorned in the custom RICH MNISI Rhundzu blouse and crocodile half-pleat skirt. “Growing up, all I have always wanted to do was to design clothes that reflect my own energy and the love of coloring outside the lines. I have dreamed of my favorite icons wearing my clothes like any kid dreams of meeting their icons. Protect your dreams with all you have because they have the power to define your destiny,” he said in an Instagram post after celebrating the iconic musician wearing his clothes. In the short amount of time that Mnisi has been in the fashion industry, he has turned heads in South Africa’s fashion industry and internationally, featuring in publications like Vogue Italia, GQ, Financial Times, Marie Claire, ELLE and Vogue Russia. Mnisi is a graduate of LISOF (Leaders in the Science of Fashion) and was awarded the Africa Fashion International Young Designer of the Year 2014. He also owns a furniture brand consisting of a chaise and a stool titled Nwa-Mulamula, after his late great-grandmother. He is also the designer of the red Coca-Cola outfit worn by Karabo Poppy on the cover of the 2019 FORBES AFRICA 30 Under 30 list.
Sho Madjozi, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
25. Kevin Njue 27, Kenya
Producer, Director, Writer and CEO: Rocque Pictures At university, Kevin Njue and his partner used his student loan of $200 to direct and produce a short film that he had written in hostel. The film, Sticking Ribbons, was released in 2013 and Njue went on to win the award for Best East African Talent at the 2014 Zanzibar International Film Festival. Njue used the monetary reward of $1,000 to invest in his next short film, Intellectual Scum, which went on to screen in 15 film festivals globally. “I was proud to thought-provoke the audience on the unequal racial relationships in Africa’s cultural and political landscape,” he tells FORBES AFRICA. After gaining experience creating short films, Njue decided it was time to make bigger ones, a full-length feature film. This ultimately led to him founding a business in 2016, Rocque Pictures. With only enough money just to register the business, he knocked on doors while pitching his first feature film, 18 HOURS. Of the $45,000 dollars needed, he managed to raise $13,000 from a university professor and an entrepreneur. In the end, the film was finished and launched in November 2017. It sold out at a cinema premiere in Nairobi. In 2018, the film won the Best Overall Movie in Africa, Africa Magic Viewers’ Choice Awards, making history as the first Kenyan film to be nominated and win in the history of the awards. “As the CEO of Rocque Pictures, the goal is to set up a state-ofthe-art film studio with a sound stage, backlot, a film park and an underwater film stage in Nairobi by 2030,” he says.
NOW & THEN
Musician Sho Majozi won the hearts of South Africans in the early days of 2017 and seemingly, everything she touches burst into a euphoric cornucopia of color in celebration her African heritage. She introduced herself to the world as a Tsonga rapper with hits like Gqi, Huku, Kona, Wakanda Forever, and recently Idhom, bringing the XiTsonga language into the mainstream. “I can’t believe people tried to tell us we weren’t dope for so long, now they see…” she says. She is an artist for the people and whenever she performs, her energy is infectious. She has played at festivals such as Afropunk, opened for artists like Travis Scott and Jidenna, and not to mention one of her highlight performances at the Global Citizen Festival in South Africa late last year. The rising star was born Maya Wegerif in the small village of Shirley, deep in the province of the Limpopo province of South Africa. After living in Tanzania, Senegal, and the US, Madjozi is fluent in Kiswahili, French and almost every South African language, making her pretty much a true global citizen. Apart for her talented vocals, she also has a sense of style to match. Her inspiration comes from the traditional Tsonga culture. She has also teamed up with local designers to bring her first line of merchandise to fans, awakening her entrepreneurial spirit. Her goal is to bring her culture to the world, which she continues to do so, staying true to her roots. She was nominated for a BET Awards for Best New International Act, and recently bagged the Newcomer Of The Year and female artist of the year at the South African Music Awards.
27. Sarah Owusu, 28, Ghana
Artist and Painter It all started in the summer of 2012 when living in London, and Sarah Owusu was diagnosed with Bell’s palsy which left the left side of her face paralyzed. “During this very dark period of my life, I wouldn’t leave my house except for my hospital appointments, and a few weeks into my diagnosis, I got a sudden urge to paint although I hadn’t created anything for years,” she tells FORBES AFRICA. After gaining the courage to paint, she went to a cheap pound store and bought two blank canvases, cheap paint and brushes. Owusu’s passion for art grew as she noticed the lack of black female artists in the industry. One of the biggest highlights for the self-taught artist was last year when she was invited to present two of her paintings of the President of Ghana, Nana Akufo-Addo, at the Africa Business Summit in London Business School. “My future plans are to have my artwork exhibited across the African continent, starting from my place of origin, Ghana,” she says. Kevin Njue, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Sarah Owusu,member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
MAY 2019 114|115
PEOPLE 30.Paola Audrey Ndengue, 29, Cote d’Ivoire
28. Abisola Akintunde, 28, Nigeria
Abisola Akintunde, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
29. Yaa Bonsu, 28, Kenya
Founder and Creative Director: Makeup by Ashabee! and Beelashes They say beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, but for Abisola Akntunde, beauty is also in the brush stroke and makeup palette. For three weeks, she worked for a dental clinic before deciding to venture into makeup full-time. In 2012, she worked with M-Net Africa Magic doing make-up on a TV set while trying to set up her two businesses, Makeup by Ashabee! and Beelashes. Soon enough, she started receiving bookings outside of her job at M-Net and had to quit and focus fulltime on her entrepreneurial journey. “It was a very bold and scary step because I was afraid I was going to leave a steady income for something not certain but like they say, ‘don’t be afraid’,” she tells FORBES AFRICA. Akintunde took the bold step, bought her own car and set up her own studio and the rest has been a transformation for the better. Since inception, Makeup by Ashabee! has made up over 200 brides across Africa including Nigeria, Ghana, Congo, South Africa and Kenya. While with Beelashes, she says she sells over 5,000 units of beauty lashes per quarter. Akintunde has hired a staff of 20 and has trained over 50 interns between 2017 and now. As part of her philanthropic efforts, she has partnered with the Archbishop Vining Anglican Church in Lagos to train young women in the art of makeup. She has also partnered with AfribeautyHub to empower young women in Ibadan in Oyo State, Nigeria, on makeup. “The next goal at Makeup by Ashabee! is to learn permanent makeup, the art of micro-blading and ombré brows,” she says. By doing this, she plans to bring something new to the table as micro-blading is an eyebrow embroidery procedure categorized under permanent makeup lasting for up to two years.
Paola Audrey Ndengue, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 class of 2019. Source: Supplied
Host and Producer and Co-founder: FASHIZBLACK Paola Audrey Ndengue is an entrepreneur and a creative with a higher calling. Her mission has been to promote the French-speaking African creative scene to the world. While studying in France, she became a fashion blogger and has since gained 10 years’ experience in digital media. She is currently the co-founder and creative director of FASHIZBLACK, a magazine focused on black and African fashion, designers, beauty and lifestyle. And her most recent venture is PANNELLE & Co, a PR creative marketing and content agency in 2013. She has worked with several international clients and artists such as Kiff No Beat (Côte d’Ivoire), Stanley Enow (Cameroon), Boddhi Satva (Central African Republic) and Canabasse (Senegal). Both businesses she is involved in led to her being recognized as a finalist at the CNBC Africa All Africa Business Leaders Awards for the Young Business Leader of The Year in West Africa 2014. Her growth since has been phenomenal and she has featured in numerous publications including Teen Vogue, CNN Africa and Forbes Afrique. She is currently working on Maybelline’s first pan-African campaign, including several celebrities and influencers from Ghana, South Africa and Nigeria. She was recently appointed the marketing manager of the first MTV Shuga Côte d’Ivoire, an international show educating young viewers about HIV/AIDS, an opportunity that will enlarge Ndengue’s reach.
Fashion stylist and Creative In 2017, Yaa Bonsu met international model Naomi Campbell who told her to believe in herself, and then signed a copy of her Vogue magazine. Bonsu took her advice and has been climbing the international ladder in fashion since. “I remember flipping through Vogue magazines when I was 15 years old and being engrossed in this glossy world. After I watched the film, The Devil Wears Prada, I knew the fashion world belonged to me,” she says. Today, she spends her days with runway models, designers and in the thick of fashion shoots for some of those glossy magazines. In 2016, she relocated to Dubai where her career in the fashion industry took off. She connected with industry powerhouses such as Naomi Campbell, Zeynab El-Helw and Shashi Menon. She has had the opportunity to style an advertorial for the luxury brand Fendi, SS19, in April 2019. The same year, she produced a fashion editorial for Revolution magazine that featured high-end jewelry – Dior, de GRISOGONO, Bvlgari and Piaget, an achievement she says she is most proud of. She has set her goals on becoming an internationally-renowned fashion powerhouse joining the leagues of icons VictoYaa Bonsu, member of Forbes Africa 30 under 30 ria Beckham, Edward Enninful and Vanessa Kingori. class of 2019. Source: Supplied
NOW & THEN
MAY 2019 116|117
Dagga: 3 influential South Africans who support marijuana legalisation
Tom Head et’s clear the haze on marijuana legalisation in South Africa, shall we? Contrary to popular belief, it has not been permissible by law to smoke dagga as long as you’re doing it in private. This confusion came from a landmark ruling in 2017 handed down by the High Court – the best type of court to discuss marijuana consumption – which essentially made smoking dagga legal at home.
L
Is it legal to smoke weed in South Africa? However, the state lodged an appeal against this judgement. The law never came into play. But Tuesday could finally see private usage legalised in Mzansi. The Constitutional Court is set to deliver their verdict – a final say on the matter – later in the day. Should the law get the thumbs-up, there’d be plenty of influential supports backing the decision: Julius Malema Juju hasn’t actually committed to saying whether the EFF would legalise marijuana if they came to power. But one of his most famous anecdotes advocates the use of dagga, where he claims you’re more likely to pick up a book when you’re high, rather than when you’re drunk. “I have seen a lot of people smoke it, and read and not have any problems. But I have never seen people drink alcohol and read books afterwards.”
Source: The South African Online Narend Singh The Chief Whip of the Inkatha Freedom Party (IFP) has carried the torch of former party MP Mario Ambrosini, who pleaded with Jacob Zuma to legalise marijuana use for medical purposes. Ambrosini was suffering from Stage 4 lung cancer and has since passed on. Singh is committed to enhancing these treatments: “It is certainly not a free for all, it’s a point of departure for government is that ‘okay let us accept that we need to Source: The South African Online research the efficacy of these products for pain relief.”
And maybe a former Protea or two… Herschelle Gibbs, Andre Nel and Roger Telemachus were among a group players blasted for smoking dagga during South Africa’s tour to the West Indies in 2001. Society’s views on marijuana legalisation have somewhat relaxed in the years that have followed this incident, however.
Source: The South African Online
the weed issue
the weed issue
NOW & THEN NOW & THEN May 2019
R21.50
HEALTH:
'Millennial Burnout': Not just another typical ‘snowflake’ issue
TRAVEL:
BEAUTY:
I Replaced My Entire Beauty Routine With Only CBD and Hemp Products
May 2019
R21.50
HEALTH:
'Millennial Burnout': Not just another typical ‘snowflake’ issue
BEAUTY:
I Replaced My Entire Beauty Routine With Only CBD and Hemp Products
Travel destinations where you can smoke weed around the world
CULTURE:
12 Things From Millennial Culture That'll Probably Be Romanticized In 40 Years
TRAVEL:
Travel destinations where you can smoke weed around the world
12 Things From Millennial Culture That'll Probably Be Romanticized In 40 Years
FASHION & STYLE:
FOOD:
FASHION & STYLE:
FOOD:
From the "Rachel" to the Wonderbra, Was 1994 the Best Style Year Ever?
Some of SA's most
iconic foods
Dabbling in weed could be good for democracy South Africa's 2019 Cannabis Expo PEOPLE:#30Under30: Creatives Category 2019
From the "Rachel" to the Wonderbra, Was 1994 the Best Style Year Ever?
CULTURE:
Some of SA's most
iconic foods
Dabbling in weed could be good for democracy South Africa's 2019 Cannabis Expo PEOPLE:#30Under30: Creatives Category 2019
the weed issue
NOW & THEN May 2019
R21.50
HEALTH:
'Millennial Burnout': Not just another typical ‘snowflake’ issue
TRAVEL:
BEAUTY:
I Replaced My Entire Beauty Routine With Only CBD and Hemp Products
CULTURE:
Travel destinations where you can smoke weed around the world
12 Things From Millennial Culture That'll Probably Be Romanticized In 40 Years
FASHION & STYLE:
FOOD:
From the "Rachel" to the Wonderbra, Was 1994 the Best Style Year Ever?
Some of SA's most
iconic foods
Dabbling in weed could be good for democracy South Africa's 2019 Cannabis Expo PEOPLE:#30Under30: Creatives Category 2019