XIAMEN

LISA HOU

Coastal Comfort

Boasting a pleasant climate yearround and a great diversity of activities for travelers, the coastal city of Xiamen is one of the most popular tourist destinations in southern China.

Located on the Taiwan Straits, with Taiwan-administered Jinmen Island lying less than 6 kilometers away, the Hokkien city of Xiamen shares similar customs, cuisines and an almost identical language with residents of the Chinese territory of Taiwan.

One of the four special economic zones opened to foreign investment in the 1980s, the former treaty port now hosts the annual China International Fair for Investment and Trade, one of the largest investment events in the world. This past year the fair was held online due to the COVID-19 situation.

Aside from financial prowess, Xiamen is home to the island of Gulangyu – a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site that sees tourists flock to it day in, day out. Located only a five-minute ferry ride away from downtown Xiamen, the pedestrian-only island boasts beautiful beaches and unique architecture, and is one of the ‘most visited’ tourist spots in the PRC.

On Xiamen’s historic Zhongshan Lu, rows of qilou, a traditional veranda-like structure, greet visitors and serve as a reminder of the city’s past. The Buddhist Nanputuo Temple, which dates back to the Tang Dynasty, is a must-visit national treasure in Xiamen; while Zencuo’an, a former fishing village, is a hub for pubs, hostels and street food stalls.

In this seaside city, there is no shortage of restaurants serving up fresh seafood and you’d be crazy to leave Xiamen without trying the city’s renowned shacha noodles, oyster omelet and fish ball soup.

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Gaoqi International Airport (XMN)

Ranked among the busiest airports in China, Gaoqi international airport is just a 10-kilometer drive from the center of the city. The airport operates a wide range of domestic flights across the country. Prior to the coronavirus outbreak, Xiamen also served a growing number of international cities. Those arriving at XMN can take a taxi or the BRT into the city center. A new airport is also being constructed north of the city on Dadeng Island in Xiang’an District.

> Xiangyun Yi Lu, He Shan Jiedao, Huli District 湖里区禾山街道翔云一路

North Railway Station

The only high-speed railway station in Xiamen, North Station is a regional hub with direct routes to Fuzhou, Shenzhen, Nanjing and Hangzhou, among other cities. Located in Jimei District, the best way to get into the city is by taking the BRT No. 1, which you can catch just south of the railway station.

> Houxi Zhen Yannei cun, Jimei District 集美区后溪镇岩内村

Hubin Long-Distance Bus Station

Bus stations in Xiamen are best used for regional attractions like the Yongding Hakka Tulou. You can take buses from Hubin or Fanghu station directly to Yongding Tulou, which will take anywhere from 3-4 hours. There are several departure times from early morning to afternoon. As for inter-city bus travel, you can reach Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Hong Kong, among other cities and towns. However, it’s more expensive and takes longer than catching a high-speed train.

> No. 59 Hubin Nan Lu, Siming District 思明区湖滨南路 59 号

Xiamen International Cruise Terminal

As a coastal city in southern China, Xiamen has an extensive water transportation network, operating ships to/ from Keelung and Taichung on the island of Taiwan. The ships depart in the late afternoon and arrive at the island the following morning. (Call 592-5820688 to confirm whether ships are operating to/from these destinations during the time of your stay). For those looking to travel to the island of Kinmen, head to Wutong Port. The ferry schedule is all day, with intervals ranging from 30-60 minutes.

> Dongdu Lu, Huli District 湖里区东港路 2 号

Metro

Starting operation at the end of 2017, Xiamen Metro only has two metro lines with 52 total stations; however, three other lines and 93 new stations are currently under construction. You can reach the North Station on Line 1, making for a convenient way to travel into the city. The only transfer station for Line 1 and Line 2 is at Lucuo, located in the heart of the main island.

Taxi

It’s pretty easy and inexpensive to get around Xiamen by taxi, which start at RMB10. Other ride share platforms are also available in the city.

Bike

You can find popular shared bike options like Meituan Bike and Hellobike in the city for cheap rides.

SM City Plaza

Located in the city center, SM City Plaza is a massive shopping center that offers travelers an escape from the summer heat. The six-floor mall is full of local and Western products, with a Walmart and Watsons inside as well as a cinema for rainy days.

> No.468 Jiahe Lu, Huli District 湖里区嘉禾路 468 号

Longtou Lu (Dragon Head Road)

Located on Gulangyu, Longtou Lu is a popular shopping area on the idyllic island that consists of a network of interconnected alleys. Great for snacking and souvenir shopping, the streets tend to fill up around lunchtime with food stalls serving local delicacies. Despite the great flavors and scenery, this place does get crowded – we got the vibe that all of Xiamen was walking around Longtou Lu during our visit to the island. Try and visit on a weekday to avoid the herds of tourists.

> Longtou Lu, Gulangyu 鼓浪屿龙头路

Zhongshan Lu

We’d be remiss to not mention Zhongshan Lu in our Xiamen shopping guide, as the commercial center is one of the go-to shopping areas in the city. Dating back to 1925, the kilometer-long walking street is lined with retail, cafes, restaurants and local food courts. Zhongshan Lu is easy to spot with a unique blend of Chinese and Western-style architecture. If you want to see Xiamen really come to life, pay a visit right after sundown.

> Zhongshan Lu, Siming District 思明区中山路

Gulangyu

Lying to the southwest of Xiamen, the small island of Gulangyu (also known as Kulangsu) beckons tourists with its delicious Minnan cuisine and mixed bag of architecture. A former international settlement in China, Gulangyu, nicknamed ‘the island of music’ and ‘garden on the sea,’ was listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in July 2017 for “a mixture of different architectural styles including Traditional Southern Fujian Style, Western Classical Revival Style and Veranda Colonial Style.” The only vehicles allowed on the car-free island – which is populated by approximately 6,000 residents – are electric buggies used to transport tourists. It’s recommended to buy ferry tickets (RMB30-50) two or three days in advance at the Xiamen International Cruise Center.

Nanputuo Temple

One of the most prominent Buddhist temples in the Middle Kingdom, the Nanputuo Temple was originally built at the end of the Tang Dynasty, more than 1,000 years ago. Buddhist halls and pagodas dot the temple grounds, which is also famous for its vegetarian restaurants and pastries. Backed by Wulao Mountain, the top of which boasts a killer view of the city’s coastline, the majestic temple is home to the renowned Buddhist College of Minnan and hundreds of Buddhist monks.

Huandao Lu

Blue waters, golden sand and green lawns make Huandao Lu, or ‘Encircle Island Road,’ a popular route for a bike tour. Particularly beautiful is the stretch of road from Xiamen University to Xiamen International Convention and Exhibition Center. Many sights, including a fort barbette and a wetland, are located along the coastal thoroughfare. Bicycles can also be rented at Xiamen University or Xiamen International Convention and Exhibition Center.

TIANJIN

VIBES COVER STORY 30

Unlike China’s biggest metropolises, Tianjin is often overlooked. The municipality is steeped in history with a blend of architectural elements from both Asia and Europe. While Tianjin may not be atop most China travel destinations, there’s a certain vibe to the city that has caught Bruce Connolly’s attention. The Beijing-based photographer holds Tianjin in high regard and often travels there for different events as well as an excuse to leave the capital now and then.

Each time Connolly sets out to capture the city with his lens, he’s taken aback by the beauty along the Hai River and the smiling faces he comes across.

In the following pages, Connolly shares his photos of the people of Tianjin as well as the shining architecture throughout this bustling city.