SOLO Magazine Jan-March 2015 by FHA

JAN-MARCH 2015 £1.50

FIRST ISSUE

THE EVER – DEDICATED TO YOU, THE

FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER Ads.indd 1

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ON THE/COVER

WHODUNNIT HAIR: LEONARDO RIZZO FOR INDOLA COLOUR: GILLIAN REILLEY MAKEUP: GUDRUN MUELLER STYLING: NATASCHA NITSCHKE PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER GHERKE

TAKING A HARD LINE ON A GRAPHIC THEME DOESN'T HAVE TO LOOK TOO EDGY AS THE FEMININE INTERPRETATION SEEN ON OUR COVER PROVES. SHAPED TO THE HEAD AND CROPPED TIGHT TO THE NECK, THE CUT BOLDLY SHOWCASES THE POWER OF LESS IS MORE, WHILE ITS ROUNDED, BROW-SKIMMING FRINGE NODS TO SIXTIES COOL WITH A SLEEK, SHARP FINISH.

RECREATEIT

01 02 03 04 05 Create an asymmetric section from ear to ear, ending just behind the right ear and one inch behind the left ear. Trace a triangular section at the crown.

Start working diagonally from mid-centre at the back. Work gradually towards the front as you square cut.

Taper the outside edge with scissors-over-comb technique and join this to the top section.

On the right, comb the hair into a natural fall and trim diagonally above the ear. Move down, section by section, joining all the lengths to the base.

On the left, comb the hair into a natural fall, then cut diagonally, scissors-overcomb. Then trim the fringe in a slightly asymmetric line to connect the two sides.

06 07 08 09 10 Release the back section and create texture with point-cutting.

/TIP: BREAK

UP THE LINES FOR A MORE BOHEMIAN VIBE, OR TOUSLE WITH FRESH TEXTURE AND LOADS OF MOVEMENT.

Ads.indd 2

Trace a triangular section just below the crown towards the back of the head. Pin all of the sections around this to stop colour touching other areas.

Mix Indola Rapid Blond blue dustfree powder bleach with 9% Profession Creme Developer Peroxide. Apply the mixture, using foils, to the triangular section.

Mix hair colour PCC 4.19 Medium Brown Ash Matt with 2% Profession Creme Developer Peroxide. Apply to the rest of the hair. Leave to develop for 30-45 minutes.

Rinse the darker shade out first, then rinse the bleached hair. Mix hair shade PCC 9.11 Very Light Blonde Intense Ash with 2% Profession Creme Developer Peroxide. Leave until its a cool, steel grey shade.

13/01/2015 13:27

EDITOR’S/LETTER THIS IS THE FIRST EVER ISSUE OF SOLO AND WE’RE VERY EXCITED ABOUT THIS FABULOUS NEW MAGAZINE SPECIFICALLY FOR THE FREELANCE SECTOR, AND IN PARTICULAR THE MEMBERS OF THE FREELANCE HAIRDRESSERS’ ASSOCIATION. It’s come about to fulfil a need to TALK TO YOU about your industry, how to THRIVE in it, the EDUCATION available and how being an FHA MEMBER can catapult your career. With a focus on the issues that affect freelancers specifically, this issue sees SOLO delve into common BUSINESS ISSUES such as ‘why to revamp your KIT BAG’ and the pros and cons of being VAT registered. We've also got a section full of STEP BY STEPS, upcoming EVENTS tailored to freelancers and the latest EDUCATION on offer. Plus it will cover brand new products and EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS and news from the wonderful FHA, as the only body dedicated to the freelance sector. We’re both very excited by this collaboration and what the future will hold, but for now, we hope you enjoy the first ever issue of SOLO. From your faithful editors, Sheila Abrahams, FHA founder and Joanne Charlton, Director of JC Publishing.

JC Publishing, Office 104, 176 South Street, Romford, Essex, RM1 1BW

Editors Letter.indd 1

020 3291 3681 editorial@solomag.co.uk / sales@solomag.co.uk gosolo_mag

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WHAT’S/INSIDE

25 49 07 17 42

/NEWS 05 Straight from the heart of your industry 10 All the goss on the FHA from Sheila /EVENTS 14 All the goings on at Wella Professionals HUSH Club 16 NOISE returns bigger, better and louder than ever before

17 The UNITE team shows why they’re at the heart of fashion 18 Alan Howard opens its doors to hairdressers wanting to discover more about

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the Scruples brand

19 St Albans Fashion Week saw an eclectic mix of vintage updos, come modern mussed up 20 Hairdressing’s biggest exhibition leaves London’s Excel pumping 22 What’s next: We bring an exclusive calendar of events just for you /BUSINESS 24 Learn how to get the most out of your shopping 52 Everything you need to know to ﬁle your tax return

54 Why you should have an overhaul of your favourite products 56 The legalities of having a website – there are more rules than you may think 58 A list of our favourite courses to keep you savvy

/PROFILE 26 Tracy Pallari talks shop – how she’s done it, where she’s done it and where she hopes to do it /FASHION 36 Trend focus: Straight from the catwalks, fashion has

never played such an important role in the hair your clients are asking for as it does now /KIT BAG 44 Get creative with colour with the ﬂurry of new innovations on the market, while the possibilities with styling are endless with this selection of goodies. It’s all here. Electricals? Check. Beauty? Check. Care? Check. /INSPIRATION 60 This issue looks at some sultry sirens and how they were achieved

@gosolo_mag 13/01/2015 09:19

News/

/NEWS ECONOMY PRICE RISE? As tough economic times ease, members of the public could soon be seeing more money in their pockets, meaning now may be the time to look at raising your prices. Average incomes are expected to rise 1.7 percent in real terms this year – after climbing to £17,070 between the end of 2013 and the third quarter of 2014. The forecasts are partially based on projections by the Office for Budget Responsibility, and suggest that real wage growth could be even stronger this year if inflation continues to fall. Data released by the Office for National Statistics also showed pay, including and excluding bonuses, grew faster than prices for the first time in more than six years in the three months to October. Many economists expect

inﬂation to stay well below the Bank of England’s 2 percent target next year, meaning more money for everyone, however the Resolution Foundation warns that it could take most of the year to get back on track. This means 2016 could be the best time to implement any price rises, if you want to play it safe and not scare off your clients. Matthew Whittaker, chief economist at the Foundation said: “After years of stagnation it’s encouraging that household incomes are set to rise again through 2015. But household income per capita is still almost £600 lower than it was at the start of 2008 – and this shortfall doesn’t look like being made up until early 2016.” This is in contrast to OBR projections that suggest average disposable household incomes will return to pre-crash levels in the second quarter of 2015.

FASHION

SHARE YOUR NEWS WITH US @GOSOLO_MAG

IN THIS FIRST EVER ISSUE OF SOLO THERE’S CERTAINLY A LOT TO UPDATE YOU ON. BE IT FASHION, THE ECONOMY OR THE LATEST COMPETITION THAT YOU CAN USE TO PROPEL YOUR CAREER, WE HAVE THE NEWS THAT AFFECTS YOU.

HIS WORLD Favoured session stylist Matthew Curtis was busy backstage at Frank and Oak SS15 prepping the boys before they stepped onto the catwalk. He gave them a natural but controlled side part, swept off the face to make it look like slightly overgrown. The fringe was allowed to ﬂop forward naturally with

a bit of help from a volumising mousse, a texture creme and a ﬁnishing hair spray. Matthew tips: “Work the hair to create a swept back, but effortless look, letting longer pieces of the hair from the top of the head fall over the sides.” Photography: Chip Kennedy chipkennedy.com

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ENTERTAINMENT Creative force Vivienne Mackinder added an innovative chapter to her Hair Designer TV online education library: the Layer Series. She is aiming to make layering more couture with a series of lessons to help professional hairdressers be more creative by looking at layering from a fresh perspective. “In my Layer Series you’ll see me execute different techniques then coach young stylists and senior stylists through the same methods. It shows the common mistakes we make and the familiar challenges we face when either reducing or building weight when layering,” explains Vivienne.

LAYERING UP

Currently based in New York, British-born Vivienne trained at the London College of Fashion, after which she joined Vidal Sassoon, rising to the rank of artistic director. Leaving London in 1990 for the USA, Vivienne worked for Trevor

Sorbie as International Creative Director. She launched her latest series after identifying the problems with online hair tutorials creating a surge of ‘do-ityourself’ consumers. “The sober reality of how the information age has equalised a lot of things gave me food for thought,” says Vivienne. “It made me question: who is the competition? The hair salon down the road or is the consumer stealing your lunch?” Not anymore, as you can see in her demo how to look at layering from a different point of view, that only a professional can do. It looks at how to work with a razor, the efﬁciency and the control that’s required and how to totally control the weight to create beautiful and contemporary layered hairstyles for today’s ever-discerning client who demands and expects the best. The Layer Series is available by visiting HairDesignerTV.com

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News/

FLYING HIGH

AMBASSADORSHIP 2009, Katie hit a career pinnacle as she won a place on the Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E Team, and picked up the One to Watch Award at the Most Wanted Awards. RUSK has been searching for someone to ﬁll their role as Ambassador for some time, and with Katie’s recent achievements she ﬁt the bill perfectly.

RUSK is proud to announce the appointment of colour expert, Katie Mulcahy as Brand Ambassador, who at just 29, has already mapped out a career that many can only dream of. No stranger to winning awards, Katie kicked off her hairdressing career by winning the L’Oréal Talent Spotting title in 2006 and was ﬁnalist for Wella TrendVision in the same year. The following year she moved on to become a L’Oréal iD Artist. Then, in

A working-class boy from Teesside, who grew up to become a hugely successful hairdresser, has revealed all about how he got there and what happened along the way in his memoir Bobs, Beehives and Bouffants. Anthony Barnes-Smith, who was born and raised in Sunderland, started his career in hairdressing in Newcastle’s then-notorious Pink Lane, much to his dad’s disappointment – he soon came around though when he saw what a success

his son was becoming! As one of the leading stylists in London during the Swinging Sixties, the decade that revolutionised hairdressing, he won a host of top national and international competitions, was a member of the British team in the Hairdressing World Cup and rubbed shoulders with the great and the good of the ﬁercely-competitive industry. More recently in his 42 year career he’s gone on to establish the award-

Ginny Hicks, RUSK Marketing Director says: “RUSK is a vibrant colour range which reﬂects fashion forward trends but also delivers the reliability and results that stylists demand. Katie’s talent, enthusiasm and credibility regarding colour knowledge makes her the perfect ambassador. We are looking forward to an exciting future together.” Katie's ﬁrst task has been to create a gorgeous photographic collection using the brand new RUSK colour ranges: Deepshine Colour Crème and Deepshine Direct.

winning Q Hair and Beauty in Chichester, one of the leading salons on the South Coast. With 26 years as a salon owner, Anthony says it wasn’t all plain sailing, including a disastrous blaze which ripped through the beautiful old building in which Q is housed, but he’s all the better for it. Get your hands on a copy of the book at qhairandbeauty.co.uk/shop for £9.99.

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/News

FASHION NEW FAKE Accessories featured heavily on the SS15 catwalks with full on wigs at Haider Ackermann in Paris, courtesy of session styling maestro Eugene Souleiman. He was creating a look to combine the naivety of a choir boy with the severity of a badly cut style and glacial blonde colour. “This look is something beautiful and elegant,

but in an unusual way that you wouldn’t expect. We used icy, white blonde colour to create a classic, choirboy inspired haircut, but you can still see the model’s natural hairline displayed underneath, almost like an undercut so there’s a contrast between something natural and something strange,” says Eugene Souleiman, Wella Global Creative Director, Style and Care.

WINNING TEAM

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Showcasing creativity to the fashion stage, Eugene adds that the multiple layers “really make you stare”. Meanwhile, colour aﬁcionado Josh Wood was responsible for the icy blonde. “The desaturated blonde colour created for the wigs complimented Haider Ackermann’s collection, which is muted and tonal,” says Josh, Wella Global Creative Director, Color.

“This look takes the concept of minimal to a whole new level where the severity of the cut is further accentuated by the depigmentation of the colour.” While you’re unlikely to see your clients asking you to trim their wig, desaturated colour and choppy texture are set to hit the streets this season, so be ready for it.

AMBASSADORSHIP Balmain Paris Hair Couture has appointed internationally renowned hairdresser Paul Falltrick as Global Ambassador. Having had a successful hairdressing career it's likely to be the start of a great partnership.

the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards.

He has extensive expertise in education, stage and show work and is a previous F.A.M.E. Team member and a past winner of Eastern Hairdresser of

Dawn Reilly Balmain Paris Hair Couture Marketing Director said: "We're so looking forward to working with Paul as he brings an extra creative element to the brand."

Paul will be working on photographic shoots, shows and exhibitions both in the uk and overseas. He'll also be directly involved in the education of the Balmain brand.

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News/

CHARITY ANGELIC GESTURE Simplydry and Salon Angel have donated disposable gowns, towels and their innovative Salon Angel to charity community group, Haircuts-4-Homeless.

COMPETITION BE CREATIVE

Haircuts-4-Homeless is a community group where skilled hairdressers give their time free of charge to give haircuts for homeless people in the UK, in a bid to boost their self esteem. Stewart Roberts, who has been a hairdresser for 36 years, started the project in Havering, Essex in November this year and is conﬁdent that it can eventually roll out across the UK. "Hairdressers have a known empathy and are great communicators," he said. "The industry is known for its generosity and willingness to help people therefore there are many that would willingly give some of their time and expertise. “There is something very personal about cutting someone’s hair that can be both enjoyable and therapeutic a feeling that many homeless people rarely experience." Sales director Roger Manley said: “Both Simplydry and Salon Angel are delighted to be in a position where we can donate both gowns and towels to this really great project.”

Label.m is encouraging creativity with a no-holds-barred approach for the launch of Creative Image, label-me.

BUILD ON COLOUR Answering the ever growing client desire for personalisation, Wella Professionals has introduced Couture Colour Services, a new concept in colour inspired by the bespoke craftsmanship of couture fashion. It aims to educate every colourist in how to use the brand’s professional colour lines to create the ultimate hair colour experience. With three main components including consultation, premium brands and client experience it ensures your service will be better than your neighbours – and you can charge more for it. To celebrate its launch, Wella

Professionals is offering 10 colourists the chance to win an exclusive day with Wella Global Colour Director Josh Wood. The winners will visit his impressive Atelier and experience an exclusive Up Close and Personal with him and a panel of experts. They'll also delve into the exquisite world of Couture Colour and learn what it takes to deliver a bespoke colour service for every client to ensure they return to you again and again. Now's the time to upgrade your services and charge a premium for it. For your chance to win download a form from Wellamymarketing. co.uk or email: wellacomms.im@pg.com

It’s a platform to showcase amazing images in a bid to unleash that inner creative spirit, spontaneity and individualist attitude, which could see winner’s work published in the annual Toni&Guy Look Book, as well as being shared across label.m’s social media platforms. To enter, share your hair storyboard with labelme@labelm. com. This will then be placed into a monthly draw and be judged by the label.m International Artistic Team. Monthly winners will then be placed in one big draw to ﬁnd the overall winner at the end of 2015. In addition to the social media coverage and possible inclusion in the Look Book, which goes out to 7,000 global salons, there’s a place on a three Day Creative Cut and Colour course up for grabs at the Toni&Guy London Academy. Get creating.

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HOT/LIST

INFO

WANT TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE FHA? CHECK OUT WWW.THEFHA.ORG.UK, EMAIL ENQUIRIES@THEFHA.ORG.UK OR CALL 01582 431783

EVERY ISSUE WE CATCH UP WITH THE HAPS FROM THE FREELANCE HAIRDRESSERS ASSOCIATION [FHA FOR SHORT], TO KEEP YOU INFORMED ON WHAT THE MEMBERS HAVE BEEN UP TO. IT’S THE ONLY ORGANISATION DEDICATED TO YOU, THE FREELANCER, AND THERE’S A LOT GOING ON… FREELANCE HAIRDRESSERS’ ASSOCIATION OFFERS TRAINING BURSARIES AGAIN IN 2015 EDUCATION Every member of the FHA has access to exclusive education. In 2015, the FHA is once again oﬀering Training Bursaries in association with Wella. That means, as a member, you get funding towards exclusive courses at the Wella Studios in

London and Manchester. Each Training Bursary is worth up to £200 towards a one day Wella colour course, with a £45 contribution needed from you.

for a FHA Training Bursary simply ﬁll in an online Application Form at www.thefha. org.uk or return the form found in your Welcome Pack received on joining.

It’s the opportunity you’ve been waiting for – accessible education that will help your business thrive. To apply

Write, in one sentence, how an FHA Training Bursary would beneﬁt you. Not yet a member? Maybe it’s time you joined.

A WORD FROM/SHEILA “Since the FHA was oﬀicially launched In June 2014 a new era has begun for the freelance sector and new beginnings are always exciting. The FHA brings opportunities to freelancers not found anywhere else in the industry.

to help you with your business. The FHA has regional groups around the country that provide friendship and support – ongoing training and updating skills is our life blood. Just because you work alone, you don’t have to be alone.

“We’re committed to bringing you all manner of beneﬁts and services

“You’re in a fashion industry and must produce work of the

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highest calibre for your clients so to help you with this we ensure that you get the best training at the keenest prices and we even oﬀer a limited amount of funding. “Need help starting a new business or do you just need a pick me up? A shot in the arm to get yourself and your business back on track?

Either way we can help you. “We also oﬀer money saving opportunities on buying stock and equipment and we have a specialist scissor sharpening service. The FHA is the perfect partner to help you be the best you can be so you can provide the best service to your clients.”

@gosolo_mag 13/01/2015 10:50

News/ REGIONAL GROUPS Being self-employed can be a little daunting and solitary, but not if you join the FHA. Not only does it oﬀer a freelance community of likeminded people but there are Regional Groups set up across the UK.

SEASON SENSATIONS Exclusive education days are just one of the perks of being an FHA member. At the end of last year FHA members headed to the capital to tap into sound business advice and be enthused during the run up to the party season at the ASK Academy.

Debbie G was onhand for an up close and personal presentation of her stunning creations, which were enhanced by the creative colouring techniques used by Indola technician, Lucy Craddock. “Debbie G has a great style of training

which is relaxed, comfortable and inspiring much loved by FHA members,” says Sheila. They certainly lapped up the opportunity to witness creativity with great hair, sound business advice and delicious food!

The groups are run by members who volunteer their time in Aberkenﬁg South Wales, Berkshire, Bristol, Devon, East Sussex, Essex, Gloucestershire, Hampshire, Herts Beds & Bucks, Kent, London, Middlesex, Manchester, Portsmouth, Somerset, Surrey, East Sussex, West Sussex and Yorkshire. Help has never been closer to hand as Sheila says: “The FHA gives you a support network and it’s always nice to know you have someone close at hand to discuss things with just like you did with colleagues in the staﬀ room.”

UK FREELANCE AWARDS

INSPIRE!

Show oﬀ your talent and impress your clients with a UK Freelance Award. Created to honour the hard work that goes unnoticed year after year, these awards are one of a kind.

Inspire! is the educational, social event of the year and a must for every freelancer. It oﬀers education, training, presentations from top industry icons, an exhibition village and fantastic food. Plus, the UK Freelance Awards ceremony is held directly afterwards, making it two events in one. “Attending Inspire!,

the educational event of the year, is an opportunity to learn with top industry icons and socialise with like-minded people.” For 2015 there’ll be break out areas with demonstrations so that you can get up close and personal with cutting, styling and colour techniques as well as trying products. Creative presentations from top guest stylists

including Richard Ward Artistic Director Cristiano Basciu and others will be announced shortly. “There’s no event in the industry to rival or offer better value for money than this one,” exclaims Sheila. “Members come year after year; it’s a ‘not to be missed’ day. Not been before? Come along and find out what the FHA has to offer you.”

The competition is open to every self-employed hairdresser, beauty therapist and make up artist in the UK and it’s easy to enter – simply snap your best work and send it in. The 2014 winners have taken full advantage of their good fortune with PR in local papers and gained new clients as well as impressing the regulars. The closing date is March 31, 2015 so do it today and the winners are announced at Inspire! on June 14, 2015. Make sure you’re next.

@gosolo_mag FHA.indd 11

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/Event

EDUCATIONAL WELLA’S LONDON STUDIO WAS TRANSFORMED INTO A HIVE OF ACTIVITY AS LIKE-MINDED HAIRDRESSERS DESCENDED ON THE HAIRDRESSING HUB FOR THE EXCLUSIVE HUSH CLUB EVENT. 14 / HushEvent.indd 14

@gosolo_mag 12/01/2015 21:27

Event/

Created to inspire hairdressers from all over, the Wella Professionals HUSH Club is a calendar must – and rarely more so than when a team from Sanrizz takes to the stage.

SOIREE

clients colour that they can’t begin to get anywhere else.” Rudi Rizzo joined the duo to give an inspiring look at the possibilities for male clients, saying: “Male clients want a

With a limited “COLOUR IS A number of guests, FUNDAMENTAL this PART OF ANY exclusive soiree SALON BUSINESS” held at the end of last year softer look – gone saw Leonardo are the days of Rizzo, Sharon Cox masculinity, men and Rudi Rizzo are deﬁnitely entertain the 50 wanting to create strong audience a more feminine with their latest look these days.” collections. The evening went Compered by down a storm with Wella World guests who made Studio Leader the most of the Toby Vogler, he opportunity to welcomed Leonardo really get to know to open the show the personalities with his model and expertise of from the Sanrizz those icons who Women’s Silence are often out of Collection. The reach. short but edgy and feminine Throughout this look showcased year, the HUSH gradual tones Club is set to and beautiful explore new movement. directions in style, design The colour, as and creativity presented by with leading Sharon Cox, hairdressing names included the coming together Instamatic Pink to get up close Dream shade from and personal Color Touch to to some of the create a peach biggest icons in sorbet look. the hairdressing world. Sharon said: “Colour is a Next up is Bruce fundamental part Maseﬁeld and of any salon Edward Darley of business, it’s Sassoon Academy on vital that we’re March 16. able to offer

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/Event

ECLECTIC STYLE

AFTER THE HUGE INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS NOISE HAS SEEN SO FAR IN 2014 WITH AMAZING EVENTS IN PARIS AND MOSCOW, FOUNDER RICHARD ASHFORTH DECIDED TO BRING NOISE BACK TO LONDON FOR THE THIRD TIME AND FOR AN EVEN BIGGER, BETTER AND LOUDER SHOW.

As whispers across social media gathered wind, so did the anticipation for NOISE. And the event was a sell out with hundreds in attendance as hundreds more queued outside in the hope of gaining a ticket.

Global industry icon and NOISE veteran Tim Hartley was joined by Australian Hairdresser of the Year Emiliano Vitale, NOISE newbies the A Twins from Lithuania along with NOISE regulars X-Presion.

In typical NOISE style the attendees were kept guessing until the very last minute as clues where steadily posted on social media, where the date was revealed, the guests and of course the top secret location. It kicked off with a bang in London’s Shoreditch with the super cool Kachette playing host to this year’s event.

They were of course also joined by the team from SACO, lead by International Creative Director and NOISE Founder Richard Ashforth. “It was an amazing opportunity to introduce some new faces that I’ve discovered on my travels to the audience

“IT WAS GREAT TO SHOW

The CASE THE ECLECTIC guests took HAIRDRESSING STYLES” to the stage to and as always it was showcase their cutting and styling techniques, great to show case the eclectic hairdressing among a buzz of video projections. styles and techniques,” says Richard.

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@gosolo_mag

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Event/ What?! is a cultural fashion event that celebrates the links between music and art, held at the Teatre Principal, a venue rich in Balearic history.

stylist, Nicola Gelphi from PINKO Italia and Cristina Muñoz, the owner of PINKO in Palma and Portals Nous. The new PINKO collection is designed for a carefree woman who captures to perfection the intriguingly dynamic and seductive spirit

It was the venue of choice for PINKO to present its AW14 collection — and a good choice too. Meanwhile the hair THE NEW PINKO took COLLECTION IS shape in a natural DESIGNED FOR A street boho CAREFREE WOMAN touch. It was tousled and tonged behind the cool, to various degrees for contemporary elegance. a contemporary style that appeals to the masses. It made for one hell of an eye-catching Working alongside the show in a nod to UNITE team was Emilio what's hitting the Botti, PINKO fashion streets soon.

PROJECT WHAT?! TEAM MEMBERS FROM THE UNITE UK TEAM, DANIEL JORDAN AND ROBERT BELL, WERE ON HAND IN MALLORCA CREATING THE LOOKS FOR ITALIAN DESIGNER PINKO FOR THE ANTICIPATED ‘WHAT?!’ SHOW, THAT TOOK PLACE IN THE CAPITAL CITY OF PALMA DE MALLORCA. @gosolo_mag Unite/NoiseEvent.indd 17

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DISCOVERING SCRUPLES

ALAN HOWARD HOSTED AN EXCLUSIVE EVENT AROUND THE SCRUPLES BRAND – THE PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN ABOUT PRODUCT FORMULATIONS, BENEFITS AND HOW TO USE THEM.

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Alan Howard hosted a Scruples Discovery Evening with Michael Riley – Chief Operating Ofﬁcer at Scruples Haircare and Amie Breckenridge Goltz, Director of Field Education and Scruples Academy.

The Scruples product range includes White Tea, Blazing Highlights, Shadow Lowlights and the new Pearl Prescriptive. Formulas are still gluten-free, paba-free, cruelty-free, colour safe and gentle for all hair types.

Welcome drinks were followed by a The lines also still presentation on the contain Scruples’ Scruples brand and unique Protective product range, and a FORMULAS ARE Q&A session in the new STILL GLUTENBusiness FREE, PABA-FREE, Lounge at the new AND CRUELTY-FREE ﬂagship Alan Howard Stockport superstore. Barrier Complex, which is designed to Alan Howard is replenish moisture, proud to be the add protein to help exclusive importers maintain elasticity and and distributors improve hair’s inner of American brand strength – leaving it Scruples, which has manageable, healthy and now undergone much of noticeably sexy. its repackaging along with the launch of the Check out our events new Pearl Prescriptive page for more learning Haircare range. opportunities.

@gosolo_mag

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Event/ The team at Atelier Hairdressing & Beauty Rooms created the looks for St Albans Fashion Week’s Luxe Show, which launched with a weeklong of events. It attracted over 1,000 people to view hair and fashion from the local Hertfordshire area – a mark of how the signiﬁcance of hair and fashion is growing.

said: “The feel for the show was both luxury, sensual and elegant. The hair took inﬂuences from the 30s with a modern take.” A new addition to the schedule, the show presented fashion from a variety of local retailers. There was also a jazz band, champagne and martini – what more could you ask for?

The Luxe Show was held at the Porche Centre, THE FEEL FOR THE Hatﬁeld, SHOW WAS BOTH featuring 30 models LUXURY, SENSUAL that sported AND ELEGANT. hairstyling with THE HAIR TOOK inﬂuences INFLUENCES FROM from the vintage THE 30S WITH A era. Salon MODERN TAKE. co-owner Karen Hyam

HAIR MEETS FASHION A TEAM OF HAIRDRESSERS HEADED TO ST ALBANS FASHION WEEK’S LUXE SHOW TO CREATE A SERIES OF VINTAGE UPDOS AND 30S WAVES. @gosolo_mag StAlbans/CruplesEvent.indd 19

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SHOW TIME LONDON’S EXCEL WELCOMED THOUSANDS OF HAIRDRESSERS THROUGH ITS DOORS OVER THE SALON INTERNATIONAL 3-DAY EXTRAVAGANZA. WE BRING YOU THE CUT DOWN VERSION OF ALL THE HAPS FROM THIS HAIRDRESSING EXHIBITION. 20 / SalonEvent.indd 20

@gosolo_mag 12/01/2015 21:45

Event/ International hairdressers and colourists, from college students to world-renowned hairdressers, arrived at London Excel hoping to glimpse the newest innovations to hit the hair scene and witness some aweinspiring show work. They weren’t disappointed as Salon International 2014 showcased exclusive launches such as the Tangle Teezer blowstyling brushes. It also showcased this season’s trends including hair tattooing and inventive use of colour – both for men’s hairdressing. There were also inspirational educational shows at Salon Live and Salon Seminars, and the hugely popular HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards Gallery sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional were exhibition highlights. Another highlight was the stage debut of the TIGI Inspirational Youth 2014 team. It was the tenth year that TIGI has given its show over to the next generation of hairdressing talent but it saw teams from Germany and USA for the ﬁrst time ever. Each of the stylists had to present a model onstage,

having already cut and coloured a model ﬁrst. Joining the team on their journey – and onstage – were TIGI global creative director Christel Lundqvist, European creative director Akos Bodi and global creative director Nick Irwin, as well

It was also the year the Fellowship celebrated 21 years of the F.A.M.E. Team. They welcomed back past members including Zoe Irwin, Sharon Peake and Adam Reed, all of whom presented inspiring shows. The 2014 F.A.M.E.

“WE BELIEVE IN DOING IT, BECAUSE THESE ARE THE HAIRDRESSERS OF THE FUTURE. THEIR JOURNEY DOESN’T END HERE TODAY, THIS IS JUST THE START OF THEIR HAIRDRESSING CAREERS.” as TIGI founder and international artistic director, Anthony Mascolo. “We believe in giving young people like this the opportunity to represent us at Salon International,” said Anthony. “We believe in doing it, because these are the hairdressers of the future. Their journey doesn’t end here today, this is just the start of their hairdressing careers.” The Fellowship Stage at Salon International is always a huge draw, with hundreds of acts appearing on the free platform over the three-day event. With Fellowship president, Errol Douglas, acting as compère, 2014 was no different.

Team also made an appearance, as did the Australian F.A.M.E. Team, while the 2015 ﬁnalists undertook their ﬁnal live auditions onstage. The brand new F.A.M.E. Team for 2015 was later revealed at the Fellowship Luncheon and Awards as Peter Burkill from HOB Salons, Amelia Evans from Russell Eaton, Luke Benson from D&J Ambrose and Lucy Tuck from Marc Antoni. Salon International saw a variety of other competitions including Student Creative Team of the Year sponsored by Salon Supplies and Salon Services, and the new Afro Stylist of the Year, while The Clothes Show Live Young Hairdresser of the Year proved to be a crowd-pleaser too.

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/Event

THE HAPS

Professional Beauty at London ExCel.

IN AN INDUSTRY WHERE THERE’S SO MUCH GOING IT CAN BE DIFFICULT WORKING OUT WHAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU. THAT’S WHY WE’VE DONE IT FOR YOU… PRO HAIR LIVE As the most notable trade show held in the northern regions, Pro Hair Live Manchester has positioned itself as the go-to show, and now it’s coming to London [more on that in the next issue of SOLO]. Heading to Manc will be iconic hairdressers such as Errol Douglas and barber Chris Foster, while thousands of stylists and colourists will head to the Northern hot spot for a glimpse at what 2015 will bring. There’ll be seminars, competitions, iconic shows and much more. Plus you’re guaranteed access to the likes of Alan Howard, Balmain, American Dream, Denman,

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GE Bettertons, Fudge, Matrix, Sexy Hair and many more as they’re all conﬁrmed exhibitors. WHEN Sunday, March 8 and Monday, March 9 WHERE Manchester Central GETTING THERE www. prohairlive. co.uk

Hair Professional has a business owner focus, providing an opportunity to enhance commercial skills, network with fellow professionals, learn from an extensive educational programme, as well as the chance to meet leading suppliers in the industry. WHEN Sunday, February 22 and Monday, February 23 WHERE London Excel GETTING THERE info@ hairprolive.com 020 7351 0536

The HUSH Club is exclusively run by Wella Professionals and brings to you a new, inspirational concept of highly motivating and exclusive events to inspire, enable and delight the hairdressing industry. Revolutionising evening hairdressing events, the HUSH Club gives you the opportunity to meet leading international ﬁgures and some of the hottest talent. Each event features a keynote presentation, followed by discussions and informal networking with your fellow HUSH Club members. HUSH evenings really aim to be something very special, with a limited number of guests, a private soiree and a chance to really get to know the personalities and expertise of those icons who are often out of reach,so if it’s up your street book today.

HUSH CLUB GIVES YOU THE OPPORTUNITY TO MEET LEADING INTERNATIONAL FIGURES AND SOME OF THE HOTTEST TALENT.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AND HAIR PROFESSIONAL The people behind the Professional Beauty shows have announced a brand new hair show starting this year. Hair Professional 2015 will be held alongside

HUSH CLUB The HUSH Club produces unique events with some of the industry’s most respected names, and the next event is no different with none other than Bruce Maseﬁeld and Edward Darley of Sassoon Academy waiting to entertain you.

WHEN Monday, March 16 WHERE Wella World Studio London GETTING THERE 020 7637 7172

@gosolo_mag 13/01/2015 09:10

Inspire!

UK FREELANCE

Sunday 14 June 2015

Sunday 14th June The Freelance Hairdressers’ Association (FHA) event Inspire! is the educational, social event of the year. An event that offers education, training, presentations from top industry icons, an exhibition village with special event offers fantastic food and socialising with like-minded people all in one day. Plus the UK Freelance Awards ceremony is held directly afterwards. Two events in one day! This year it is being held at Hellidon Lakes Hotel in Northampton and on the guest list we have Cristiano Basciu, Artistic Director for Richard Ward, on stage with more guests to be announced. It will be an amazing day. Tickets cost £125 buy your Early Bird tickets before 28th February 2015 and save £30. There is no event in the industry to rival or offer better value for money than this one. Members come year after year it is a ‘not to be missed’ day. Not been before? Please join us. Been before? Then you know you are in for another great day. No one should miss the educational, social event of the year. A WORD OF WARNING! Don’t delay if you plan to come and stay at the hotel. There are a limited number of rooms available at the reduced price which is approx. 50% off the normal rate. They are available until March 2015 after which they will revert to the full price. Don’t forget to buy your ‘Early Bird’ Inspirations tickets before 28th Feb 2015 and save £30.

Ads.indd 23

2015

Ticket Reservation Form

Please indicate the number of tickets required below, complete the rest of the booking form and return it, along with payment to: The FHA Hart House Business Centre, Kimpton Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, LU2 0LB. ticket price

Early Bird FHA Members (before 28/02/15) Spring Special FHA Members (before 01/05/15)

£95.00

Full Price

£125.00

no. of tickets

£110.00

Total £ Cheques made payable to The FHA

Name Address Postcode Telephone No Mobile No Email Address Membership No (if known)

Hellidon Lakes Golf and Spa Hotel, Northampton, Northants

Special B&B rates for members For all hotel reservations call 01327 265610 and quote: Freelance Hairdressers’ Association Room rates are subject to availability Book early to avoid disappointment

13/01/2015 09:24

/Business

WHOLESALE SHOPPING/GUIDE

WHOLESALERS ARE THE HUB OF MOST FREELANCE BUSINESSES. IT'S A ONE STOP SHOP FOR PRODUCTS, EDUCATION, AND EVEN NETWORKING WITH FELLOW HAIRDRESSERS, BUT MANY DON'T HAVE A CLUE HOW TO ACCESS THE BEST THEIR LOCAL WHOLESALER HAS TO OFFER. HERE WE GET SALON SERVICES' MARKETING CONTROLLER SIMON ROWLANDS TO SPILL THE BEANS ON GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR WHOLESALER. 24 /

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Business/

First things first, make sure you're signed up to any trade schemes to ensure you get the best deals. Talking about the offers at Salon Services, Simon explains: "As long as freelancers qualify for a Trade Card and are opted in to receive communications, then they'll receive all our regular deals via our monthly flyer and emails." At Salon Services they run promotions throughout the month to give as many of their customers access to them as possible. One of their most popular deals are their VAT free promotions, which effectively save the buyer just under 20 percent on everything they buy. These generally only run for one day, occasionally one week, so you don't want to miss out. Simon adds that the best way to make sure that doesn't happen is to sign up to their SMS alerts. It's also publicised on social networks with the help of industry magazines such as SOLO. The right wholesaler can be your business partner, product partner, training partner - and friend. "Our website [salon-services.com] includes full information on all products," says Simon. "Many of our store staff are fully qualified

professionals in the industry and our dedicated Sales Advisory Teams have extensive knowledge on our products and services and are just a phone call away. "Talk to us and we can help guide you to what products would be most suitable for your needs." They’ll even help guide you with education and new products. They offer over 72 different training courses in more than 80 locations across the UK and Ireland, as well as bespoke equipment and salon design services.

The advantage of such a large company means they have a large volume of most products so it's often available the same day. "Most stores carry a large volume of varied stock, if anything is unavailable it can be ordered for delivery within days," says Simon, explaining that if you want even more choice in less time head online: "Our online channel offers a larger range and next day delivery is available."

AT SALON SERVICES THEY RUN PROMOTIONS THROUGHOUT THE MONTH TO GIVE AS MANY OF THEIR CUSTOMERS ACCESS TO THEM AS POSSIBLE. ONE OF THEIR MOST POPULAR DEALS ARE THEIR VAT FREE PROMOTIONS, WHICH EFFECTIVELY SAVE THE BUYER JUST UNDER 20 PERCENT ON EVERYTHING THEY BUY.

Salon Services sells over 8,000 carefully selected hair and beauty products sourced from the world’s leading suppliers including top brands such as TIGI, L’Oréal Professionnel, Wella Professionals, Gelish and OPI, to name just a few. Customers can also choose from a huge selection of fantastic value own brand ranges.

The key to getting the most from your wholesaler is to start looking at them as more than a shop as Managing Director Richard Hull says: “Wholesalers are becoming more than just a shop for hairdressers’ main product requirements; we can be a trusted advisor for hairdressing professionals, and an increasing number of professionals also look to wholesalers for training. "Many of our knowledgeable staff are trained professionals and all are on-hand to advise on the latest products and trends in the industry, and we run an extensive selection of courses for hairdressing professionals." That's us sold!

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ON THE

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TRACY PALLARI IS AN ESTABLISHED PROFESSIONAL HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST WITH OVER 25 YEARS EXPERIENCE. SHE IS A STRONG BELIEVER IN MAINTAINING HIGH STANDARDS AND HER WORK HAS APPEARED IN NATIONAL MAGAZINES. SHE'S ALSO BEEN RESPONSIBLE FOR PASSING ON HER KNOWLEDGE AT A NUMBER OF SOUTH WEST COLLEGES AND TO HER VERY OWN ENTOURAGE OF ASSISTANTS. TRACY REVEALS THE KEY TO HER SUCCESS. Profile.indd 27

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/ProďŹ le

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Profile/ My Mum was a hairdresser and I grew up in a maisonette above her salon in a small suburb in South Bristol. I never wanted to become a hairdresser – I thought it all looked quite boring and I’d always wanted to be a fashion designer. After being taken to Salon International and seeing a totally different side of the industry... fashion shows, cameras, filming, demonstrations, new trends, crazy colours...I changed my mind. It was the so called 'glamour' side of the industry that got me hooked. I've been lucky enough to travel internationally throughout Europe and America and experience all of those things during my earlier career. I've also run a high profile salon in the upmarket Clifton Village in Bristol. At 17, I became involved in competition work and I really believe the success I enjoyed during that time was a springboard for all the other things I've done and achieved to date. I was approached by Clynol Hair and spent many years travelling and working with them as an educator and platform artist, and loved every minute. I've been freelancing for around 20 years. When I had my two children, I was living in London and wanted to work around them. That’s when I decided to train as a Make-Up Artist. I'd always been fascinated by the make-up professionals I worked with on videos and photo shoots and learnt a lot by watching and

asking hundreds of questions. I really liked the idea of being able to create both hair and make up looks myself. I trained at the Joan Price Beauty Training Centre and London Esthetique. I always had a passion for working with long hair and occasion styling so I decided to concentrate on weddings and soon became a very busy Bridal Specialist. Living in London I worked on hundreds of weddings for all nationalities and cultures so gained a lot of hands-on experience. It’s probably why I never really have a 'typical' day. What I do have is the freedom and ﬂexibility to plan my work and choose my hours to suit my clientele, which is why being freelance suits me. I like to keep my admin up-todate by dealing with emails, calls and appointments early morning. Weekdays are usually spent meeting bridesto-be, doing consultations and trial sessions.

I retain 82 percent of my brides as regular clients after their weddings and often bridesmaids and mums as well. I have a booking for August, which is the third bridesmaid I've done from the same wedding three years ago. I don't advertise really but do use social media and networking. I also write articles and a column for a wedding magazine. A lot of it is about trust; many of my clients have long hair and I keep them as they know I love long hair and will help them grow it longer!

I LOVE WORKING FOR MYSELF BECAUSE OF THE FLEXIBILITY IT GIVES ME AND MY CLIENTS. MY CLIENTS ARE NURSES ON SHIFTS, CABIN CREW ON ROSTERS AND GENERALLY VERY BUSY CLIENTS THAT I CAN CHOOSE TO SEE AT 6AM OR 10PM IF NEEDS BE. THERE IS A TENDENCY TO WORK ALL HOURS BUT I DO MAKE SURE I BOOK DAYS OFF, TIME OUT AND HOLIDAYS IN ADVANCE.

I also offer my brides incentives to book me for any cut and colour leading up to their wedding so these appointments are scheduled during the week or evenings to suit. My weekends are wedding days with sometimes very early starts or even overnight stays so I'm usually in bridal mode for the entire 48 hours. I've primarily built up my clientele through recommendation; I always make sure my clients carry some of my business cards and they're happy to pass them on to friends, family or anyone that compliments them.

I love working for myself because of the ﬂexibility it gives me and my clients. My clients are nurses on shifts, cabin crew on rosters and generally very busy clients that I can choose to see at 6am or 10pm if needs be. There is a tendency to work all hours but I do make sure I book days off, time out and holidays in advance.

Over the the past couple of years I've seen some shocking things happening in the industry, mostly as a result of the internet and bad use of social media. It's sad that people are able to set up Facebook pages, proﬁles and websites claiming to be experienced, professionals, experts, specialists etc, after minimum training or even before training. I have even seen people use google images or other peoples’ work and claim as their own to back up their claims and charge ridiculously cheap prices in order to get a booking. I think this really cheapens our industry and

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/ProďŹ le

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Proﬁle/

I’VE ALWAYS SET MYSELF REALLY HIGH STANDARDS AND I AM THE MOST SELF CRITICAL PERSON I KNOW. EVEN IF I’VE DONE A GREAT MODEL SHOT, OR A BRIDE, OR A COLOUR, AND EVERYONE’S HAPPY WITH MY WORK, I ALWAYS STAND BACK AND EVALUATE IF I COULD HAVE IMPROVED ANYTHING.

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/Proﬁle

TRACEY’S TIPS • Offer added value to every single service. • Use the best products you can for the job. • Treat your clients like celebrities and give them time to enjoy the whole experience. I've never wanted to attract clients who are looking for the cheapest price, or best deal. I've learnt to look after my clients and they love the fact that I may give them a mini makeover on their birthday, or a complimentary blowdry for a special date. • Charge what you're worth and never, ever apologise for your prices.

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Proﬁle/ makes it more challenging for those who are professional as we're not dealing with healthy competition within the trade; we're not quoting 'like for like' at all. The upside of this though, is I'm seeing a lot of girls who have had disastrous trial sessions but at least they've found out before their wedding day who the real experts are. I've always set myself really high standards and I am the most self critical person I know. Even if I've done a great model shot, or a bride, or a colour, and everyone’s happy with my work I always stand back and evaluate if I could have improved anything. Maybe these are the actions of a perfectionist but nevertheless, I think it’s important to always set high standards for yourself and aim for perfection. I also think it’s crucial to be professional, keep learning and never, ever become complacent. The day I think I know everything there is to know in this business is the day I'll give it up.

claims and reviews and keep up-todate with trade news but if a new product catches my eye, I have to use it myself. Some products will always stay in my kit, like Elnett hairspray and L'Oréal tecni art pli, but I will always believe the latest mascara to be launched will be better than the last one I bought and so have to try it. I believe in research as I want to be offering my clients the best products. I recently invested in the Airbase Airbrush makeup system, which took me a while to decide to do, but I wanted to offer a fabulous long lasting and ﬂawless ﬁnish and it really has been a brilliant investment.

EDUCATION IS A BIG PART OF MY JOB TOO. I’M LOVING TEACHING AGAIN AND HELPING OTHERS FEEL MORE CONFIDENT ABOUT HAIR STYLING. I SPENT THREE YEARS AS A LECTURER AND ASSESSOR AND I’M SO PLEASED WHEN I HEAR HOW WELL MY PAST STUDENTS ARE DOING.

One of the things I'm always learning about is products. I'm a product junkie. I read all the

I think education is paramount if you want to become the best you can be in this business. Hair and Make-Up are like fashion – always evolving. Without education we can become stagnant, bored and complacent... dangerous places to be for creative people!

I’ve been around long enough to be producing looks and styles that I did the ﬁrst time round, but I'm doing them differently. I feel extremely lucky that I was taught old school techniques when I did my training. And I had really good teachers who set very high standards that you had to pass before qualifying. Despite being able to produce a perfect pin-curl or ﬁnger wave, I've since learnt updated tips and tricks that have saved me a lot of time. I attend seminars, exhibitions and masterclasses whenever I can as I was once told, ‘If you go on a course and learn just one thing you didn't know before, it was worth going’. I also love YouTube videos as there’is always someone who does what you do quicker, easier,

better or just in a different way that you can adapt to suit your own style and way of working. I love everything about my job, but for me it’s not just about how I can make people look, but about how I can make them feel. I recently got a thank you card from a client that simply said, 'Thank you for making me feel better about myself'. Those were very special words to me. I also run makeup masterclasses for Look Good Feel Better, a charity which helps Cancer patients learn how to use makeup to make them feel better, which is incredibly rewarding. Education is a big part of my job too. I'm loving teaching again and helping others feel more conﬁdent about hair styling. I spent three years as a Lecturer and Assessor and I'm so pleased when I hear how well my past students are doing. I've recently launched The Glamour Academy, which I'm really excited about. It’s a fabulous training space just off junction 21 of the M5 and I'm running Long Hair, Bridal, Vintage, Celebrity, Session Hairstyling and Make-Up Masterclasses and Special FX and Theatrical Make-Up workshops. I'd like to think that 2015 will be a great year for The Glamour Academy. The time is right for me to share what I've learnt and pass on some of the tips and tricks that have helped me progress, plus I've met and worked with some incredibly talented people who are coming in to run Guest Masterclasses. I've also got some interesting photo shoots planned and lots of fabulous brides to look after. I'd like to look into offering training to someone who could perhaps gain conﬁdence from working with me as an assistant on sessions and bridal bookings too.

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08/01/2015 23:13

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Think Smart, Think Indola. 08/01/2015 23:14

/Fashion

FASHION/ FORWARD THE NEW MEDIA AGE IS TRANSFORMING THE WAY PEOPLE THINK AND LEARN. NO LONGER ARE THEY WAITING TO SEE WHAT THE NEXT SEASON’S CLOTHES WILL BE OR WHAT COLOUR WILL BE ADORNING THE NAILS OF CELEBRITIES, THEY’RE WATCHING IT AS IT HAPPENS ON THE CATWALK, ALONG WITH MEDIA BUYERS, CELEBRITY ICONS AND MEMBERS OF THE PRESS. AS HAIR BECOMES MORE ENTWINED WITH FASHION, THAT TOO IS SEEING A REVOLUTION. AS THE CLOTHES FILTER DOWN FROM THE CATWALK TO THE STREETS, THE HAIRSTYLES AND COLOURS ARE GATHERING AS MUCH ATTENTION, WHICH IS WHY WE’RE BRINGING YOU THIS GUIDE TO WHAT WILL BE BIG NEWS FOR SPRING/ SUMMER 15.

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/NEWBIE’S GUIDE TO FASHION WEEK

Fashion Week was initially launched as a trade event for f or Designer Showrooms to present the next season’s collections to buyers and pitch to the press.

2 3

The four major fashion capitals are London, New York, Y ork, Milan and Paris. Fashion week happens twice a year in each city, starting with w ith New York in February and a nd September.

4 5 6

Designers exhibit their collection in the season before b efore [SS15 collections were exhibited in AW14]. Entry to the fashion week shows is by invite only. Most of the London shows occur o ccur in and around Somerset House on the Strand. The high street trends are heavily inﬂuenced by what a appears ppears on the catwalk, but with w ith pared down versions.

@gosolo_mag 13/01/2015 13:18

Fashion/ THE PONY TAIL HAS HAD ANOTHER RESURGENCE, STAKING ITS PLACE AS THE FAVOURED CLASSIC FOR THE SEASON AHEAD. THE MAIN DIFFERENCE IN THIS SEASON’S PONY TAIL FROM THOSE GONE BY IS IT WILL BE WORN AT THE NAPE OF THE NECK, AS SEEN AT JJS LEE, HAKAAN YILDIRIM AND MANY OTHERS.

KTZ

JJS LEE

HAKAAN YILDIRIM

SWING/LOW At KTZ, the woman is a modern muse who fuses together the past and the present. TIGI Global Creative Director Nick Irwin took this fusion, paired with the chic graphic edge of the KTZ S/S15 collection, and created a look of subtle severity, for the urban girl who embodies effortless cool. “This woman is part of the urban world – she’s cool, she parties and her look is effortless. The KTZ aesthetic is becoming more chic with every season so I wanted to create a relevant look and this sleek pony is high end, chic and has movement reﬂective of the collection,” says Nick. Ideal for your younger clientele, this is how you make them rethink the traditionally school-girl look. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK NICK TIPS: Flat iron the pony to give a straight, chic silhouette, spraying with Camera Ready for maximum swing and shine.

Inspired by her friend, Korean artist Meekyoung Shin’s “Translation” soap sculpture series, JJS Lee introduced a vivid, graphic print Botanic motif design to her collection.

“My Inspiration for this collection is the relationship between human beings and nature, between animals and especially between ﬂowers, bees and honey,” says designer Hakaan Yildirim.

The hair was sleek, yet casual courtesy of Halley Brisker for L’Oréal Professionnel. “I wanted to create a simple shape with clean hair, and so the hair was prepped with tecni.ART liss control smooth cream and brushed into a low ponytail,” says Halley.

Johanna Cree-Brown decided on a low pony tail to streamline the look. She gave it some personality with a two inch section of bound hair.

“I used some black fabric from Jackie’s collection as ties and then looped the pony tail around and pinned it underneath with the lengths brushed down straight.” /TO RECREATE THE LOOK HALLEY TIPS: The hair was ﬁnished with a little tecni.ART pli sprayed onto a blusher brush and dusted on the hair around the face to gently keep it in place.

“Having looked at the collection with Hakaan, we decided on a very clean, low pony tail. The roots and mid lengths were prepped with techni.ART Full Volume Mousse and blow dried back. The hair was brushed back into a low ponytail and secured with elastic.” Once it was all in place, Johanna says they “roughed it up” to show texture in the lengths. This is certainly a look for the girl who has attitude. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK JOHANNA TIPS: Do a little backcombing on top to give a good shape to the hair.

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/Fashion

NEW/WAVE FROM LUSTROUS WAVES TO A FULL HEAD OF BIG BOUNCY CURLS, THE S/S CATWALKS SAW IT ALL. THERE WERE GIRLS WITH ATTITUDE, NATURAL BEAUTY AND STRONG SILHOUETTES [YES IT CAN BE DONE WITH CURLS]. AT LUCAS NASCIMENTO, SOFT, YET STRONG WAVES WERE TEAMED WITH A WET LOOK, SLEEKED, SWEPT BACK STYLE FOR SOPHISTICATED GLAMOUR. THIS DIRECTLY JUXTAPOSED WITH THE CURLS SEEN AT ANTIPODIUM WHERE THEY APPEARED ALMOST THROWN TOGETHER IN AN ILLUSION OF ORGANISED CHAOS. 38 / Trends.indd 38

IRIS VAN HERPEN The S/S15 Iris Van Herpen woman is conﬁdent in her skin. She is the client who is understated, private, and celebrates her individuality. Iris says: “I ﬁnd beauty in the continual shaping of chaos, which clearly embodies the primordial power of nature’s performance.” Maria Kovacs was responsible for the hair and was keen to use the dynamic forces, integral to the collection, to juxtapose the gentle movement of the hair. She integrated a natural wave to work in parallel with the sculpted garments and chaotic structure of the runway look.

“We wanted to create a look with gentle movement that worked in parallel with the chaotic magnetic dynamics. Iris loved the look of the small face veiled with a natural wave; the technique is actually a modern version of a Marcel Wave but more ﬂuid and relaxed to kiss the shoulders, in opposition with the strong, sculpted tone of the collection,” says Maria Kovacs, TIGI European Session Director. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK MARIA TIPS: Allow hair to dry naturally, and set the ﬁnal look using a gentle hot blow.

@gosolo_mag 13/01/2015 13:18

Fashion/

ANTIPODIUM

Designer Daniel Mcilwraith called the collection “Women on a Mission” drawing inspiration from the prim and proper look of American televangelists, the more sinful seduction of late night telephone operators, and space travel to the ﬁnal frontier. The hair look was inspired by early Kylie Minogue curls meets David Bowie Life on Mars mullet and the master creator was Stephen Low. Curls took on a structured shape while still managing to look mussed up - perfect for your clients who want a more playful do. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK STEPHEN TIPS: The hair was sprayed with Wild Stylers Scruff Me for texture and wispy bits were pulled out all around, to give the effect of shorter hair on top.

LUCAS NASCIMENTO

BERNARD CHANDRAN

Lucas Nascimento created an ultra cool collection in which we see bold and unexpected layering of fabrics, including soft leather and transparent silk. Heavy shapes cut away effortlessly to give the woman motion and an active silhouette.

The inspiration for the clothes was a young goddess or venus emerging from the ocean, while the hair brief was fresh and young.

To complement the different touches and styles in Nascimento’s collection, Kenna fused textures of a slick wet-look with beautiful, soft waves. The front of the hair comes back off the face in a smooth and shiny sweep that then cascades down the back in a loose, dry wave.

/TO RECREATE THE LOOK DARREN TIPS: Spray the hair with tecni. ART Fix Design to give a wet look effect and pull little tendrils out at the front. Then set these to trail the face.

“Fresh and young evolved into a wet down look, close to the head,” says Darren Fowler. “The top section of hair was sprayed with tecni.ART Constructor and tonged into large curls and pinned ﬂat to the head, to get some movement into the hair.”

/TO RECREATE THE LOOK KENNA TIPS: To allow the movement to remain in the mid-length section of the hair, do not wrap the last two to three inches of the hair around the ghd curve classic curl tong, letting the ends drop off straight.

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/Fashion

POLISHED/ CHIC POLISHED SLEEK IS A CELEBRATION OF HIGH SHINE, BUT THE GRADES OF SHINE DON’T HAVE TO BE AS REFLECTIVE AS THEY ONCE WERE. NATURAL SHINE IS BEING CELEBRATED MUCH MORE THAN EVER BEFORE MADE POSSIBLE BY THE HAIR PRODUCTS THAT LEAVE NATURAL HAIR IN BETTER CONDITION THAN EVER THOUGHT POSSIBLE. A WOMAN’S NATURAL PROWESS WAS MOST PROMINENT AT KATIE GALLAGHER AND BASHARATYAN V. AT PALMER HARDING SHINE WAS ACCENTUATED FOR THE ULTIMATE POLISHED LOOK. 40 / Trends.indd 40

KATIE GALLAGHER Katie Gallagher’s collection, Fantasm is inspired by the idea of sad romance. Inspired by Katie herself, TIGI Global Creative Director Nick Irwin created a hair look to epitomise the English ﬂower girl.

/TO RECREATE THE LOOK NICK TIPS: Loosely pull at natural ﬂyaways with the palm of the hand to add more movement and amplify the “unkempt” look. Finish with a light spray of Session Series Work It Hairspray.

“A very personal collection inspired by a sad romance, we translated Katie’s Fantasm collection with airy, romantic hair, while keeping an effortlessly-chic girl in mind as our muse,” says Nick.

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Fashion/

PALMER HARDING

“The allure of petals unfurling, paint beginning to peel and surface cracking, inspire fabric texture reflecting a journey through life. Gossamer fabrics float though out the collection on an aspiring breeze, while a dusting of pollen lands on the fabric in embroidery and crystal,” says designer Palmer Harding about the collection. “We decided to create a simple hair look to reflect the serenity of the collection,” adds Stephen Low.” /TO RECREATE THE LOOK STEPHEN TIPS: Use tecni.ART Liss Control on the mid lengths and ends to add moisture and a smooth finish.

BASHARATYAN V

VIVIENNE TAM

“The inspiration for the Marrocchino Collection is Italian coffee culture and the glamour of Italian fashion, and so for the hair we wanted to create a modern version of a Sophia Loren voluminous bob,” says designer Veronica Basharatyan.

Vivienne Tam’s collection references the energetic collecting, cataloging, and exporting of China’s last dynasty – the Qing Dynasty. With texture and color being a huge feature throughout the collection, TIGI Global Creative Director Nick Irwin felt the hair needed to neutralise and unify the girls. He created a modern, sporty look with dual texture as the perfect complement.

This throwback is likely to bring screen siren heroes out of the woodwork so perfecting the art of this bob - achieved irrelevant of hair length – is a must. “The hair was blast dried with ﬁngers to get texture and movement. The lengths were then curled with large barrel tongs and set in pin,” says Jonny Engstrom. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK JONNY TIPS: Add a little tecni.ART superdust to the roots to give a gritty organic ﬁnish, then dress out the hair and roll the lengths underneath and pin into a faux voluminous bob.

Trends.indd 41

“Vivienne Tam took a starting point from 18th century Chinese artisan, decorative art and mixed this with a feeling of the 70s. For the hair we drew inspiration from Chinese surfer warriors,” adds Nick. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK NICK TIPS: Tuck haphazard strands behind the ears and then sweep two front strands of hair across the forehead and behind the ear— creating a piecey, sideswept look.

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/Fashion

UNDONE/ AS PRODUCTS HAVE EVOLVED, PEOPLE ON THE STREET ARE GETTING MORE EXPERIMENTAL. SMOOTH HAIR IS NOW ACCESSIBLE TO FRIZZ HEADED FASHIONISTAS AND UNDONE TEXTURE IS POSSIBLE ON EVEN THE FINEST TEXTURES. THIS IS A STYLE THAT ALSO LEAVES A LOT TO INTERPRETATION MEANING YOU CAN PERSONALISE IT BASED ON YOUR CLIENT’S ADVENTURE LEVELS, ABILITY TO STYLE IT THEMSELF, AND DEDICATION TO MAINTAINING THEIR LOOK.

TEXTURE

MARA HOFFMAN Mara Hoffman’s intention to create a collection that exists in an easier, more tranquil space is shown through a faded rainbow of colors and relaxed silhouettes. Once again, Mara and Nick Irwin paired up to develop an easy, breezy hair look that speaks perfectly to the effortless, bohemian girl.

with a destroyed desert braid, an effortless look for a bohemian girl,” adds Nick, TIGI Global Creative Director. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK NICK TIPS: Gently knead the braid to loosen, allowing front pieces to fall to frame the face, creating a fauxbob look.

“Mara’s collection was entitled The Sunrisers, inspired by light, tranquility and space. We complimented this

42 / Trends.indd 42

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Fashion/

KINGSTON MA SHOW

“Inspired by a less superficial version of fashion with utilitarian, almost military influences, we decided on a young, cool look with a touch of rebelliousness,” explains Andrew Ibi, Director MA Fashion. A cross between bed head and beach hair, this could be one of the most popular interpretations of Undone Texture. Following up on the dip-dye and ombré crazes, this look can be brought bang into this season with block colour. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK STEPHEN TIPS: Some sections were twisted into a loose bun to create more texture. We used Wild Stylers Next Day Hair at the roots to give a lived in look, and finished off with a spray of Crepage de Chignon to create volume and looseness.

FYODOR GOLAN

Fyodor Golan presents a bright and sporty collection in which we see an injection of romance into the digital age. There are nods to rave culture in the chunky materials and intense colour palette. Adolescence maintains a stronghold through modern digital references, paired with a laid back attitude. The hair carries this spirit and Kenna has created an undone texture that’s haphazardly pinned back to keep it out of the face and eyes. Flyaway hairs are curled to give a salty, sun-dried vibe, giving our digital girl a relaxed, realworld style. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK KENNA TIPS: To create a rough ﬁnish, ease pieces of hair loose from the grips with your ﬁngers, lightly bending these sections with the ghd eclipse styler to soften.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

The House of Holland girl is a groupie – a young woman who seeks to achieve status by following rock musicians and roadies. Stadium concert or backroom gig, she only watches from the side of the stage. Adam Reed, ghd global brand ambassador, gave HOH’s groupie girl a lived in-wave for S/S15. It was defined by a textured bend through the hair, with a bed-head finish to reflect her day-to-night ethos. “It’s all about creating an incredible modern texture in the hair – it’s not an over-curl but it’s not smooth which gives it a groupie feel, we’re calling it wave on,” says Adam. /TO RECREATE THE LOOK ADAM TIPS: Take small sections of the hair and blowdry with ghd aura, twisting the hair around the ghd natural bristle radial brush from root to end. This process seals the cuticles of the hair to help hold the style and create a lived-in texture.

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/Products

THE/BUZZ AS TECHNOLOGY EVOLVES AND NEW FORMULATIONS ARE UNCOVERED, WE KNOW CHOOSING YOUR NEXT DRYER OR HAIRSPRAY CAN BE A MINEFIELD. HERE’S OUR PICK OF THE NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK.

REVOLUTIONARY

super shiny and smooth. What it will set you back: £129.99 Where to get it: Sally and sallyexpress.com What is it: Diva Genesis Styler What it does: The Genesis Styler provides revolutionary even heat across the whole plate for a ﬂawless ﬁnish. Macadamia oil, Argan oil and Keratin are infused in the ceramic plates leaving hair

MIRROR SHINE

/ELECTRICS

ION TECHNOLOGY What is it: Corioliss C3 Ultimate Titanium Styling Iron What it does: It has titanium ﬂoating plates, negative ion technology, pro variable temperature control for adjusting between 135 and 235

44 / Products.indd 44

degrees, plus a sleep mode that shuts the styler down after 30 minutes of inactivity. What it will set you back: £119 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and uk.corioliss.com

What is it: Balmain Professional Titanium Straightener What it does: While delivering the exact temperature to work with both memory hair and 100 percent human hair, it glides titanium ﬂoating plates smoothly through the hair for a silky, shiny and healthy ﬁnish. What it will set you back: £69.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and balmainhair.com/ ukwebshop

LIGHTER STYLING

What is it: Ceriotti Ultra Light 4200 What it does: This professional 2500 Watt Italian Hairdryer combines state of the art technology and stylist comfort. Beneﬁting from a number of new features this essential dryer is also ultra light providing the operator with a much lighter blowdrying experience. What it will set you back: £59.95 plus VAT Where to get it: Alan Howard and alanhoward.co.uk

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Products/ CONDITIONING

BREAKTHROUGH What is it: ghd eclipse What it does: Breakthrough tri-zone technology maintains the optimum styling temperature so you can

style faster with less heat, for unbeatable shine and stronger hair that looks glossy and healthy for longer. What it will set you back: £145 Where to get it: 08453 301133 ghdhair.com

CONTROL What is it: Wahl Super Taper What it does: With a cooler running V5000 shunt motor and versatile design the Super Taper is controllable power engineered to provide optimum balance. It also has a thumb adjustable lever to vary the taper and texture of the cut without changing blades. What it will set you back: £37.99 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and wahlstore.co.uk

/PROMO: SPEND £100 ON BALMAIN HAIR PRODUCTS AND BUY THE STRAIGHTENER FOR ONLY £39.95 / SPEND £150 ON BALMAIN HAIR PRODUCTS AND BUY THE STRAIGHTENER FOR £35.95 / BUY ONE STRAIGHTENER AND GET A SECOND FOR JUST £10 / BUY TWO STRAIGHTENERS, GET TWO FREE

What is it: Diva Chromatix What it does: The Chromatix 3400Pro is a super light and powerful dryer with four heat and two speed settings. The ionic conditioning means faster drying, reduced static and frizz, plus a boost of shine. What it will set you back: £49.99 Where to get it: Sally and sallyexpress.com

SNAG-FREE

What is it: Diva Chromatix Intelligent Digital Styler What it does: With Korean ﬂoating plates infused with Argan Oil it offers a snag free, super-smooth ﬁnish. Whether it’s a straight, curly or wavy look you’re after, the Chromatix Intelligent Digital Styler is a styling essential. What it will set you back: £69.99 Where to get it: Sally and sallyexpress.com

DUAL ROTATION What is it: Corioliss ElectroCurl What it does: A motorised professional curling wand, it features a dual spin rotating barrel, so it does all the hard work for you. Create volume and natural-looking curls with ease, plus it comes in three sizes – 25mm, 28mm and 32mm. What it will set you back: £64.50 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and uk.corioliss.com

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/Products

/BEAUTY

RAZOR SHARP

What is it: Glamtech

EVO Skull print scissor What it does: Featuring a skull print, these scissors aren’t for the faint-hearted! Crafted using high quality Japanese steel they have razor edge blades, perfect for slice cutting and advanced techniques. What it will set you back: £29.99 + VAT Where to get it: Salon

Services and salon-services.com

/TOOLS

DOCTOR DOCTOR What is it: Dr Paw Paw Tinted Peach Pink Balm What it does: Just about everything. This multipurpose soothing balm with natural fermented paw-paw works on lips, cheeks and anywhere you want a hint of tint. What it will set you back: £6.95 Where to get it: drpawpaw.com

REVITALISING What is it: Phytomer HydraSea Night Plumping Rich Cream What it does: This ultracomfortable enveloping cream is based on the synergy of two marine ingredients to provide optimum skin hydration while you sleep. Night after night, skin looks plumped and revitalised. What it will set you back: £55.25 Where to get it: phytomer.co.uk

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LUXE SCENT What is it: Neal & Wolf Aura Hair & Body Fragrance What it does: Combines pure luxury with science in a delicate blend of orange blossom with essences of white thyme, saffron, vanilla and woody notes. It’s good for hair and skin so you can go crazy. What it will set you back: £20.95 Where to get it: nealandwolf.com

/CARE

MOISTURE & SHINE What is it: TIGI Pro Moisture and Shine duo What it does: The shampoo is specially designed to moisturise normal to dry hair to create a healthy shine. The Moisture and Shine Conditioner contains ingredients that

fortify hair, leaving it soft, shiny and beautiful. What it will set you back: Shampoo £11.50 Conditioner £12.50 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

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Products/ WONDER-FUL

BB FOR HAIR

What is it: Indola Wonder Wash What it does: You get all the beneﬁts of 10 different products in this one superperforming power house. It cleanses, repais, maintains colour vibrancy, recovers elasticity, smooths, moisturises and much more. What it will set you back: £8.75 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and indola.com

COLOUR SHINE

What is it: RUSK Deepshine Colour Care What it does: Deepshine Colour Care is a prescriptive collection, which has been specially formulated to provide the perfect care following a colour treatment. Available in three ranges – hydrate, repair

and smooth – they all offer brilliant colour retention, superior conditioning and a mirror-like shine. What it will set you back: £5.99 plus VAT for 250ml Where to get it: Salon Services and salon-services.com

What is it: Scruples Design Base What it does: Design Base BB Creme is a go-to, multi-functional hair primer, ﬁlling, smoothing, moisturising and protecting hair against heat styling appliances and fading colour. What it will set you back: £17.95 Where to get it: Alan Howard and alanhoward.co.uk

INNER STRENGTH What is it: Scruples Pearl Classic Collection What it does: Containing a Protective Barrier Complex designed to replenish moisture, add protein to help maintain elasticity and improve hair's inner strength, this collection leaves hair manageable, healthy and noticeably sexy. What it will set you back: Upwards of £5.97 plus VAT Where to get it: Alan Howard and alanhoward.co.uk

SLICK PASSION What is it: Matrix Oil Wonders MicroOil Shampoo and Oil Conditioner What it does: Restores manageability leaving hair soft and super shiny. They smell incredible too. What it will set you back: £8.75 each Where to get it: Most wholesalers and matrixhaircare.co.uk

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/Products

/MEN

SMART CLASSIC What is it: Indola Innova Strong Gel What it does: This strong gel offers lasting hold without residue. It’s the key to sleeking back and shaping manly locks with total style control. What it will set you back: £8.05 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

EXTREMITY What is it: Osmo Matte Clay Extreme What it does: With its distinctive red lid, Matte Clay Extreme stands out from the crowd and guarantees to deliver supreme originality, texture and look deﬁnition. This extreme hold texture wax is the perfect product for men who want the ultimate in deﬁned style with a supreme hold. What it will set you back: £8.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and osmo.uk.com

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@gosolo_mag

MASCULINE PUNCH What is it: BED HEAD for Men Power Play What it does: A firm finish gel for solid hold in an alcohol free, nonflaking formula. Conditioning agents and antioxidants also protect hair while providing control and shine. What it will set you back: £10.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

/COLOUR

ULTIMATE GROOMING What is it: Wahl UK Puttee and GELE What it does: Puttee is a texturising shaper for molding, styling and manipulating while adding shine and definitive control. GELE is a quick drying gel that provides instant long lasting styling results with luminous shine, flexible hold and a sleek finish. What it will set you back: £9.99 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and wahlstore.co.uk

GO CRAZY What is it: Crazy Color What it does: Transform colour with this semipermanent cream. There are 29 colours to choose from with Ruby

Rouge, Lime Twist and Blue Jade just added. What it will set you back: £4 Where to get it: crazycolor.co.uk

13/01/2015 12:49

Products/ COVER GREY

DARK SIDE

What is it: RUSK Deepshine What it does: This gives permanent long-lasting colour in 74 vibrant, intense shades – all of which offer 100 percent ﬂawless grey coverage with ultra-low ammonia. Its unique formula conditions as it colours, ensuring consistently brilliant results with a glossy shine. What it will set you back: £5.89 Where to get it: Salon Services and salon-services.com

MEDITERRANEAN BLEND

HEADCASE What is it: Affinage Infiniti Gothic Series What it does: With five fantastic new colours that can be used on natural white or grey hair and on hair prelightened to very light blonde, there’s a shade for all your clients. What it will set you back: £6.35 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

What is it: XP100 What it does: Designed especially to colour hair using essential herbs and plant extracts, each permanent hair colour is formulated using a blend of Mediterranean herb essences that contain properties to preserve the beauty and health of the hair. What it will set you back: £4.49 plus VAT Where to get it: Salon Services and salon-services.com

CLEAN COLOUR What is it: Fudge Headpaint What it does: With ﬁve new shades ranging from sultry rose gold to a sumptuous brunette, this colour range will liven

up any look this winter. What it will set you back: £4.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and fudge.com

What is it: TIGI Copyright Colour What it does: With reformulated activators that have a richer, thicker, creamier consistency, it offers smoother mixing up to 45 percent faster. What it will set you back: POA Where to get it: Most wholesalers

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/Products

/STYLING

MEGA VOLUME

SET+MATCH

LAYER IT

ENLIVEN SENSES

What is it: Bed Head by TIGI Motor Mouth What it does: Get this for great body and volume for thicker-looking hair and better grip when blowdrying. It has improved manageability and epic gloss thanks to a big dose of conditioners, while party animals will enjoy the glowing streaks it creates under UV light. What it will set you back: £8.60 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

What is it: TIGI Pro Look Set Hairspray What it does: For super strong hold that promises to hold hair all day [perfect for that long-slavedover updo] look no further than Look Set Hairspray. For more hold, just keep layering. What it will set you back: £8.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

What is it: Sexy Hair Get Layered What it does: Packed with moisturising ingredients, Get Layered adds thickness, volume and shine with that much sought after matte ﬁnish, while conditioning the hair. What it will set you back: £15.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and sexyhair.co.uk

What is it: Batiste Neon Lights What it does: Neon Lights is a dry shampoo created with a long lasting fragrance – over four hours. Make your clients smell great with extra volume, touchable texture and a fabulous clean sensation. What it will set you back: £3.99 Where to get it: batistehair.co.uk and Tesco

DREAM CREAM What is it: ION Finishing Crème What it does: Tame your client’s stressed-out hair and create healthy-looking shiny styles. This lightweight, dream cream has been formulated with beeswax to give long-lasting hold, deﬁnition, moisture and shine to hair, post-styling. What it will set you back:£4.19 Where to get it: Salon Services and salon-services.com

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Products/ /TIP: PRO SHINE BALM CAN ALSO BE USED TO REFRESH STYLE ON DAY TWO

LONGEVITY What is it: Sexy Hair H2NO What it does: This light and buildable dry shampoo is designed to last for three days to extend the time between shampoos, retaining colour vibrancy and reducing chemical damage. Its sunﬂower oil, silica and panthenol formula creates a product that provides the essential combination of texture, shine and conditioning. What it will set you back: £16.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers and sexyhair.co.uk

HIGH GLOSS What is it: TIGI Pro Shine Balm What it does: This balm contains ingredients that help provide protection during heat styling to give a glossy ﬁnish without weighing hair down. What it will set you back: £9.95 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

SHINE FREE

FLEXI HOLD

What is it: Bed Head by TIGI Manipulator Matte What it does: This is a strong hold wax with a matte, dry ﬁnish. A reinvented version of Manipulator it creates masses of texture without artiﬁcial shine. What it will set you back: £8.70 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

What is it: Bed Head by TIGI Flexi Head What it does: Lock style in place with this reformulated strong hold hairspray. With a more ﬂexible effect than the original, it allows you to build hold. Key ingredients also ensure hair’s natural shine comes through while a fruit fantasy fragrance gives it a strong following. What it will set you back: £7.30 Where to get it: Most wholesalers

GLAM UP What is it: Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+ Glamination What it does: There are ﬁve products; Prime Prep Spray, Plumping Shine Mousse, Strong Glossy Holdspray, Light Glossy Holdspray and Smooth Polish Elixir, all working together to create undone glamour. What it will set you back: From £8.96 Where to get it: Salon Services and salon-services.com

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/Business

THE GUIDE/ FILING YOUR TAX RETURN

WITH THE SELF ASSESSMENT TAX RETURN DEADLINE LOOMING, WE’RE BRINGING YOU THIS CONCISE GUIDE ON HOW TO DO IT, WHERE TO DO IT AND WHEN. 52 / Tax.indd 52

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Business/ /DEADLINE Filing your tax return online comes with a wealth of beneﬁts, the biggest of these being an extended deadline for ﬁling, automatic calculation of the tax you owe and faster repayment if HMRC does owe you money.

take half as long as you expect.

The extended deadline is now looming though so you don’t have long to get everything organised. Stop putting it off and start doing today. There are lots of tools to help you so chances are it won’t

To register, visit the HMRC website. Click on the Self assessment option under the Do It Online heading. If you’re a new user, click on the Register button, then select Individual, followed by Self Assessment.

/REGISTERING If you haven’t submitted an online tax return before, you need to register in advance and get your Unique Tax Reference.

income from, in the relevant year. The online program includes handy reminders about where you can find the information to fill in the current section [e.g. your P11D, P60 or payslips]. /Check the return making sure everything is correct and complete. /Submit your return. When you do, you’ll get an on-screen confirmation and code number.

/PITFALLS A common reason for missing the tax return deadline is a missing figure you’re waiting for. Rather than let this hold things up, it is better to submit an estimated figure [declared as such] and let HMRC have a revised one later if necessary. There are very few excuses that HMRC will accept for late filing. Those that are listed include a lifethreatening illness or the recent death of a partner. Leaving it too late to get an activation code is not good enough, although you can appeal if you apply in time and it fails to arrive.

IF YOU HAVEN’T SUBMITTED AN ONLINE TAX RETURN BEFORE, YOU NEED TO REGISTER IN ADVANCE AND GET YOUR UNIQUE TAX REFERENCE.

You’ll set up a user ID and password and then receive an activation code by post, which allows you to file online. The code can take up to seven days to arrive, so you need to make sure you register well in advance of the January 31 deadline. Once you’ve received an activation code, you must activate your online HRMC account within 28 days of the date shown on the letter sent to you, otherwise the code will expire and you’ll need to request another. /HOW TO HMRC will allow you to submit your income from Employment; Selfemployment; Individual partnership – to report your share of a partnership’s profit or loss; Land and property; Capital gains and Foreign income. Once you’ve logged on to your online tax return, there are four steps to follow: – Check your personal details. – Fill in the figures on your return for the categories you’ve received

The best way to complete it is to just start and then if you have any queries, call HMRC. If you need a little more help there is a demonstration on the website as well as common questions.

If you do miss the online deadline and want to appeal, write to HMRC as soon as possible. It’s amazing what a little communication can do.

/BENEFITS OF FILING YOUR TAX RETURN ONLINE: /YOU GET an extended deadline by three months to January 31, 2015. /YOUR TAX is automatically calculated online and there are faster repayments if HMRC owes you money. /INSTANT ONLINE confirmation from HMRC for greater peace of mind. /HMRC'S ONLINE TAX return program reacts to the answers you give as you fill it in, for example removing irrelevant sections. If you fill in a paper tax return, there are likely to be sections you have to miss out

deliberately, whereas these will simply 'disappear' if you decide to file online. /HMRC'S SYSTEM will also pre-fill your online tax return with information already held on you, such as your address and National Insurance number. /WHEN FILING ONLINE you can save your tax return at any time, coming back to it later if you don’t have time to fill in everything in one sitting. If you make an obvious mistake when filling in an online tax return, HMRC's software should also highlight this.

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/Business

IT'S EASY TO GET STUCK IN A RUT WHEN IT COMES TO THE PRODUCTS YOU USE, BUT STEPPING OUT OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE AND EXPERIMENTING WITH NEW FORMULATIONS

CAN BRING A HOST OF BENEFITS. SHAYNE MEADOWS, INDOLA TECHNICAL MANAGER, SAYS WHY HE THINKS A REVAMP OF YOUR KIT BAG SHOULD BE HIGH ON YOUR AGENDA... 54 / KitBag.indd 54

Hair: Leonardo Rizzo Colour: Gillian Reilley Makeup: Gudrun Mueller Styling: Natascha Nitschke Photography: Peter Gherke

KIT BAG/ "Product innovation moves at an incredibly fast pace – the best hairspray you’ve ever used can be replaced by something even better a year later," says Shayne, adding emphasis to his belief that being on top of product innovation is essential if you want to be able to offer your clients the best. Many hairdressers are guilty of sticking to the same product year after year, which is why many products that were popular 10 years ago are still the most popular today. This is despite improved formulas offering better results and often in less time. The only rule of thumb Shayne says is to stick

to the same brand for colour as he says: "This will prevent confusion with switching different developer strength recommendations or changes in mixing ratios and development times." When it comes to care and styling, however, the world is your oyster! And your likely to use it as Shayne says you should be using different shampoos and conditioners on every client, dependent on their hair type. He adds: "For after colour services or clients with coloured hair always use a colour safe shampoo and conditioner. Damaged or porous hair will require more care so you'll need repair and restructuring

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Business/ fragrance may start to deteriorate.

BENEFIT HOT LIST

It's easy to tell how long is left on your product, as long as you know when you bought it [you should be keeping all of your receipts for tax purposes so this shouldn't be too difﬁcult]. Look for a symbol on the packaging of a pot with a lid open or off and either 12M or 24M next to it. This indicates that the product has a 12 or 24 month shelf life after opening. Longer or shorter dates might be advised depending on the product, but you’ll only know once you check.

/SULFATE-FREE PRODUCTS These help to care for coloured hair and preserve the longevity of the colour. /KERATIN For strengthening and repairing very dry or damaged hair. /OIL PRODUCTS SUCH AS ARGAN OIL, MARULA OIL AND ALMOND OILS These have high gloss and caring beneﬁts and now come tailored to various hair types.

SHAYNE’S KIT BAG ESSENTIALS /A VERSATILE SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER that works on all

OVERHAUL So how often should you be looking at your kit bag? "Every six to 12 months," says Shayne. Being able to cater "With colour kit bags to their individual these may need changing hair needs will seasonally due to certainly boost your clients changing their hair colour from light to ONCE YOU GET TO KNOW dark etc."

shampoos and treatments. Also, clients with hair or scalp problems such as dandruff or oily hair types will need specialised products."

you visit them,” says Shayne.

Obviously, as a freelancer, visiting your client's homes every YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR TYPE There’s day, carrying YOU’LL KNOW WHAT a pretty around an convincing arsenal of PRODUCTS WORK BEST FOR argument there products THEIR HAIR AND STYLE so have an will quickly early spring deliver give clean and get you some experimental. You may serious back ache, but professionalism and be surprised by what you there is a solution. encourage client ﬁnd. retention. "Once you get to know your client's hair There are more reasons type you'll know what to look at your kit bag products work best for though; every product their hair and style, so has a shelf life and you won’t need to take once it is past that, as many products when the consistency and

hair types is ideal. [Shayne’s fave: Indola Wonder Range] /A SERUM for all hair types that’s very light on the hair and doesn’t weigh it down but adds shine. [Shayne’s fave: Indola Smooth Serum] /A RELIABLE and workable hairspray that allows for changes while maintaining a ﬁrm hold. [Shayne’s fave: Smart Classics Strong Hairspray] /A VERSATILE styling product that will help blowdry and deﬁne curls, plus add volume so you know you can use it on all hair types. [Shayne’s fave: Wonder Blow Dry] SHAYNE’S WONDER PRODUCT: Indola Honey Blonde Colour Mousse is great for all those quick re-pigmentation tricks.

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/Business

BUILDING UP A COLUMN CAN BE ONE OF THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES FOR A FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER AND A WEBSITE CAN BE A FANTASTIC TOOL TO SELL YOUR BUSINESS AND TELL POTENTIAL CLIENTS ABOUT THE SERVICES YOU OFFER, BUT THERE ARE MANY LEGAL PITFALLS TO LOOK OUT FOR. ANDREW BRENNAN, A TECHNOLOGY LAWYER AT COMMERCIAL LAW FIRM SGH MARTINEAU, REVEALS THE LEGAL IMPLICATIONS YOU NEED TO BE AWARE OF.

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Business/ /ON THE WEB Whether your website has been designed to book services online or just to show potential clients what you offer, it still has to meet the minimum legal requirements for corporate websites. Andrew Brennan, a technology lawyer at commercial law ﬁrm SGH Martineau, explains: “Many businesses are unaware of the law on websites, mistakenly believing the rules only apply to e-commerce sites and those selling to consumers.” Any UK registered business with a website must display the company name, place of registration, registered number, registered ofﬁce address, VAT number and the details of any regulator if the business undertakes any regulated activities.

can be used to track who visits your website, how often they visit, what they spend the most time looking at, etc. They can have a number of uses such as deciding which promotions are most popular, but the law surrounding them has changed and you need to know about it. “The laws on cookies changed in 2011 and website visitors must now consent to their use,” says Andrew. This can be achieved with a pop up box when a visitor ﬁrst opens a web page on your site. The good news is every

but they mustn't be pre-ticked. The courts also don't consider an opt-out not taken as automatic consent according to Andrew, so it's clarity all the way. This differs from traditional marketing in that you are still able to post or phone your clients if they provide an address and phone number, unless they ask you not to. /DATA COLLECTION If you collect personal data about visitors to your website such as email addresses, date of birth, postal address, etc, then by law you must have a designated data controller, responsible for the collected data. You then have to inform everyone what data is being collected and what will be done with it.

“WHILE IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO HAVE ALL THE INFORMATION ON THE HOMEPAGE, IT MUST BE EASY TO FIND BY ANY VISITOR TO THE SITE”

The address of the principal place of business must be shown for sole traders and partnerships. Plus if you do use a website to sell products and your services directly you must provide certain information about what you offer and the consumer’s right to cancel. “While it is not necessary to have all the information on the homepage, it must be easy to ﬁnd by any visitor to the site,” adds Andrew. /CHANGING LAW Cookies are, put simply, text ﬁles that typically contain two pieces of information: a site name and unique user ID. They

website needs them and so the consumer is quite used to them now. /WEBSITE DATA Most compliance issues revolve around the collection, storage, use, sharing or selling of personal data, with many sites obtaining contact details from visitors, to help with future marketing campaigns. You may fall foul of this if you email your clients or potential clients. Andrew explains: “There’s no problem emailing individuals in relation to their original enquiry or transaction, providing they can unsubscribe from the service, but when asking them to optin to future marketing campaigns, you need permission.” How you get the information can also be tricky. Tick boxes on a website are common place

All this should be made clear in the Privacy Policy, which should be easy to ﬁnd on the site and must contain a method for contacting the designated data controller – usually an email link will sufﬁce. /COMMON MISTAKES “Not keeping up with changing rules and regulations is a common problem and operating outside the legal requirements will not be lost on the courts should it ever come to that.” Ignorance is no defence and the rules are pretty straightforward. Non-compliance can be serious, so if you suspect your site might not meet the minimum legal requirements, seek expert advice.

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/Education

BACK TO/ SCHOOL EVERY ISSUE WE'LL BE BRINGING YOU OUR PICK OF THE HAIRDRESSING AND BEAUTY COURSES OVER THE COMING MONTHS. FHA BURSARY: INSTAMATIC AND FREELIGHTS Freelance Hairdressing Association members can access a training bursary for discounted education, thanks to a collaboration between the FHA and Wella. On the day there will be a demo in the morning with a workshop in the afternoon. You'll learn about the Wella colour portfolio, including the latest launches Instamatic and Freelights. It will cover product beneﬁts and how to get the most out of all the ranges. Plus, you'll access the latest techniques for colour application to keep you one step ahead. WHERE Wella Studio

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London and Manchester WHEN Tuesday, February 3 [London] and Tuesday, March 24 [Manchester] COST £45 HOW Book on line at www.thefha.org.uk or call 01582 431783

FHA COURSE: ONE TO ONE WITH PATRICK CAMERON Get up close and personal with the maestro of long hair dressing, Patrick Cameron. Patrick will spend the day helping you to create fabulous long hairstyles that you'll be able to do time and time again. WHERE Wella Studio London WHEN Thursday, March 19 COST £240 plus VAT HOW Book on line at www.thefha.org.uk or call 01582 431783

IMPROVING YOUR STYLING SKILLS Volume, smoothness, texture and bounce are all achievable through styling. This course gives you the opportunity to develop your blowdrying, styling and ﬁnishing techniques to be able to produce the newest trend looks, perfect for each of your clients. WHERE Alan Howard Leeds WHEN 9.30am to 4.30pm Monday, February 23 COST £95 plus VAT HOW Call 0113 270 0010

CREATIVE COLOURING TECHNIQUES Master the art of creative hair colouring by increasing your creativity and learning new techniques, enabling you to widen your colour services. You will learn total, partial and combination colour techniques through theory, demonstration and practical work, allowing you to

personalise your looks and bring your haircuts to life. WHERE Alan Howard Rochdale WHEN 9.30am to 4.30pm Monday, January 26 COST £125 plus VAT HOW Call 01706 644 803

GETTING STARTED WITH MATRIX COLOUR INSIDE AND OUT This three hour session will give you a full understanding of the Matrix colour portfolio and how to use it to its full potential so you can formulate the perfect results on every client. WHERE Alan Howard Aintree WHEN 09.45am to 12.45pm or 1.45pm to 4.45pm Tuesday, March 10 COST £25 HOW Call 0151 525 3149

CLASSIC CUTTING This course from TIGI gives hairdressers the absolute foundation to create any hairstyle. Understanding and perfecting Classic Cutting techniques is paramount, allowing the hairdresser to progress to a higher,

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Education/ more artistic level of work. Emphasis is placed on TIGI Methodology and Terminology. The goal of the course is the achievement of technical perfection and perfect balance. The technical breakdown covers one length, graduation and layering, taught through demonstration and workshop periods. WHERE London WHEN Monday, March 23 to Thursday, March 26 COST £690 HOW email uk.education@ tigihaircare. com or visit www. tigiprofessional.com

COLOUR CORRECTION Learn how to take colour disasters to hair wonders on this info-packed two day course, giving each participant the skills to face potential client colour pitfalls head-on. Clynol's experienced educators will empower colour professionals, giving them tips, and taking the fear factor out of colour correction

with clear knowledge and practical skills. Turning colour problems into colour success is guaranteed to deliver happy and loyal clients. WHERE Ask Academy London WHEN Monday, March 16 to Tuesday, March 17 COST £225 HOW Call 0207 724 7931

SALON CREATIVE: CELEBRITY LOOKS With clients coming to you daily showing the latest celebrity looks as inspiration, make sure you’re at the top of the style stakes with this exciting creative session from Schwarzkopf Professional. This fast and fabulous celebrity hairdressing course will look at the must-have A-list styles of the moment and show you how to recreate them using moodboards, demos and practical elements, covering everything from short and chic to long and glamorous. WHERE Ask Academy London WHEN Monday, March 9 COST £200 HOW Call 0207 724 7931

GELLUX 1 DAY WORKSHOP Attend this Gellux gel polish training workshop and say goodbye to manicures that take hours and quite frankly don't last the distance. Say hello to luxury at your ﬁngertips with a polish that stays so perfect it's like a luxury manicure every day. This course will cover the entire process from client consultation and every stage of application

to promotion of your services. WHERE Various Capital Hair And Beauty stores WHEN Various COST £65 plus VAT HOW Go to www. capitalhairandbeauty. co.uk/training

BARBERING – THE EASY WAY Through interactive demos and practical learning this course shows in-depth how easy and proﬁtable barbering techniques can be. By also adding a few simple techniques the barbering service can be taken to a higher earning potential. WHERE Various Salon Services stores WHEN 10am to 5pm on various dates COST £120 plus VAT HOW Go to www. salon-services.com/ training

COLOUR REFRESHER This half day L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Refresher provides the opportunity to further your expertise in colour product knowledge by learning who to select, mix, apply process and remove colour. This is the ideal course for delving deeper into the performance of the L’Oréal Professionnel colour portfolio in order to maximise results. WHERE Various Salon Services stores WHEN 10am to 5pm on various dates COST £50 plus VAT HOW Go to www. salon-services.com/ training

ILLUMINA COLOR Explore the world of ILLUMINA COLOR,

one of the biggest colour innovations to come out of Wella in 20 years due to its outstanding luminosity. The course will provide theory based guidance, looking at the science, colour chart overview, shade and tone numbering system, mixing guidelines, application and development. WHERE Various Salon Services stores WHEN 10am to 1pm on various dates COST £45 plus VAT HOW Go to www. salon-services.com/ training

EDUCATION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS The Schwarzkopf ASK Academy App launches this month and will keep you up to date and in the know with all things education. Featuring all national and international courses, you’ll be the ﬁrst to know what’s happening in your nearest Schwarzkopf Academy, and can search by skill type and level to ﬁnd the perfect course for you. With up-todate information on course availability, access to videos and future trend inspiration, you’ll even be able to meet the Academy team, what more could you want? The ASK Academy App is available through the App store and Google play.

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/Inspiration

CONTEMPORARY/ GLAMOUR THESE SULTRY LOOKS ARE PERFECT FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO MAKE A STATEMENT.

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/USE a conical wand on small sections of hair before brushing with a soft bristle brush and teasing into place. /SECURE waves with long silver sectioning clamps and lightly spray with hairspray, then leave for a minimum of 10 minutes before removing the clamps and gently brushing into place.

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/Inspiration

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/TAKE a square section at the front of the head and leave aside while you curl all other sections with a conical wand. /ONCE the main head of hair is curled, for each section, take the first two fingers of your hand, holding the end of the strand with your other hand and slowly push the hair upwards to create a textured effect. /THEN take the front panel, and loosely plait downwards using a five stranded plait technique. Tease out strands of hair from the plait, and gently position it to the side, securing underneath the hair at the side of the head. /LIGHTLY spray with hairspray.

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/CREATE a slight side parting and brush hair sleekly round to side, creating a smooth look on one side. On the alternate side, take three sections and separate with hair elastics. Work from the front roll towards to the back roll. Take section 1, closest to the face, and use a pair of chopsticks to roll hair around. /ELEVATE the roll and place it where you choose. /GENTLY pull out the chopsticks and secure with clips. Unpick ďŹ ne strands of hair to give the style a textured effect. Repeat the above step for the other two rolls, which will be larger in size due to these sections having more hair. /SPRAY into place.

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/BLOWDRY hair into a sleek bob using a Denman brush. Gently use tongs to create an indent in the hair at eye level, ensuring its level around the head. /CAREFULLY take small sections from the hair that sits below the indent and backcomb to add body and volume. Use your fingers to texturise and fix hair into place. /LIGHTLY spray with hairspray to finish.

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THE CHAIR IS YOUR STAGE. GIVE A PROFESSIONAL PERFORMANCE. Created by The TIGI International Creative Team, the TIGI PRO styling range can always be relied on to help you give your clients the look they really want. They are the essential props for the professional hairdresser.

Discover the full TIGI PRO range at: www.tigipro.com Professional performance first.

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