Good Getaways

Good Getaways There ain’t no ham like a Birmingham

Just ask the big guy on Red Mountain

Story and photos by David Moore

Iam no stranger to Birmingham. Broken up by four years at the University of Alabama and by living in the woods nine months while hiking the Appalachian Trail from

Georgia to Maine, I lived in the Birmingham suburb of Bluff Park and later in the city on the Southside for about 20 years. And over my years of newspapering around the state, Diane and I – later with our son, Hunter – often went home to visit family. But this summer was the first time I ever went to Birmingham as a visitor on an overnight getaway. Honestly, I’ve been spoiled by small-town life, and Birmingham is way too big for me to want to actually live there. At the same time, I can unequivocally say I thoroughly enjoyed our short trip there. The city is much changed and has a lot going for it. We stayed at the historic Tutwiler Hotel – now a Hampton Inn – located downtown across Park Place from the old library and Linn Park. The rooms and halls are hung with hundreds of old photos of Birmingham, black and white accents to its history. A must see on my list was my old buddy Vulcan, perched atop Red Mountain. In the old days, I was always taken by the cascade of singing water that tumbled down from the base of the statue’s pedestal. I’m old enough to remember when there was no elevator, climbing the 159 steps around and around up to the windswept balcony bolted around the top of the pedestal. The view is still amazing. Looking southwest I could make out the angled point of South Shades Mountain where Bluff Park nestles. Birmingham is a foodie destination thanks almost single-handedly to nationally acclaimed

At 56 feet tall, Vulcan is the world’s largest cast iron statue and stands atop a 123-foot pedestal. Vulcan Park and Museum is an iconic stop for visitors (admission is $6 adults, $5 seniors, $4 children). You can ride the elevator up or hike the stairs for a sprawling view of Birmingham, right. For more info: visitvulcan.com.

Along with the Civil Rights Institute, the Birmingham Civil Rights Heritage Trail walks visitors through an important part of Birmingham’s history. One stop is across from the 16th Street Baptist Church, site of the 1963 Klu Klux Klan bombing that killed four young girls. They are memorialized in the statue “Four Spirits” across from the church. Part of the statue, top left, depicts the youngest victim, Denise McNair, 11, releasing six doves. Far from perfect, as they are nationwide, race relations today stand in sharp contrast to 60 years ago. Likewise, Birmingham’s architecture can be viewed in sharp contrast, top right.

I have always loved Albert Bierstadt’s “Looking Down the Yosemite Valley,” left, a stunning part of the permanent collection at the Birmingham Museum of Art (admission is free). Below are scenes from Railroad Park and Five Points Public House and Oyster Bar, a casual place for dining. A must-see for fans, the Alabama Sports Hall of Fame ($5 adults, $4 senior citizens, $3 students) downtown recently opened a new wing that holds some of the artwork of one of my brothers – The Daniel A. Moore Gallery.

chef and Cullman native Frank Stitt. Unfortunately, his flagship Highland Bar and Grill is still unopened following its Covid closure. His other two acclaimed restaurants are open, as are numerous other fine eateries, including Hot and Hot Fish Club at the Pepper Place development, several blocks east of historic Sloss Furnace National Historic Landmark.

Back Forty, one of Birmingham’s many breweries and distilleries, is also at Pepper Place. Also new since my days in town is Railroad Park, a 10-acre green area adjacent to the train tracks. It’s surrounded by new apartments, which have boomed in Birmingham. The Barons play at Regions Field, adjacent to the park. The half-mile Rotary Trail connects Railroad Park to Sloss Furnace.

Speaking of sports, Protective Stadium, the newest addition to the BirminghamJefferson Civic Center, is home to the UAB Blazers and Birmingham Stallions of the United States Football League.

Diane and I only scraped off a few layers of the many levels of activities Birmingham has to offer these days – because, as the saying goes, “There ain’t no ham like a Birmingham.” Just ask my big iron buddy lording over the city from atop Red Mountain. But even with its many new attractions and activities, Birmingham still feels like home to me.

Good Life Magazine