The Iowan | May/June 2015 | Vol. 63, No. 5 by The Iowan magazine

Visit Tassel Ridge Winery ®

and Vineyards

Ride

the Grapemobile through the vineyards and learn about grape growing (seasonal, weather permitting).

Tour

the Winery and learn about wine making from crush through fermentation to bottling.

Taste award-winning wines ranging from dry to sweet

including fizzy, fruit, dessert, and iced wines.

Picnic

on the terrace or spacious lawn and enjoy the views of the vineyards and picturesque farmland.

Shop

for wine-related items and accessories, local cheese, chocolate, dipping oils, and more….

Visit

www.tasselridge.com to see a schedule of special wine and food pairing events and a list of our Iowa retailers.

New Sharon Otley

Pella

Exit 40

163 T15

1681 220th St., Leighton, IA 641.672.WINE (9463) www.tasselridge.com

Tassel Ridge Winery

Leighton

220th Street Oskaloosa

23 63

Open 7 days a week year round Monday–Friday, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. 92 Sunday, Noon–6 p.m. Tassel Ridge wines are sold at the Winery and nearly 400 retailers in Iowa. For a complete list of retailers visit www.tasselridge.com/retail.

Cedar ® Tassel Ridge Winery… Simply Extraordinary

THE IOWAN | iowan.com

Eddyville

LEARNING

TO BE THE

BEST

Anatomy

Biomedical Sciences

Osteopathic Medicine

Podiatric Medicine

Health Care Administration

Physical Therapy

Physician Assistant Studies

Post-Professional DPT

WWW.DMU.EDU

Public Health

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

contents

MAY/JUNE 2015

volume 63 | number 5 iowan.com

ON THE COVER AND THIS PAGE: Tasting Iowa craft beers, page 48. Photographs by Dean Tanner

FEATURES 20 Iowa’s Best Campgrounds

story and photography by Dan Weeks

These 14 destinations should be on every Iowan’s bucket list. Day trippers welcome, too!

Iowa’s Murals

West Okoboji is now home to a 28,000 square-foot mural — and epic-scale art is popping up all over.

Craft Beer is Here!

by J. Wilson

Iowa’s Minister of Beer talks about where to find a great craft brew at beer festivals, tap houses, and breweries statewide.

64 Portfolio: Iowa in Black & White

Images to make Ansel Adams proud.

DEPARTMENTS

from the editor Get Out!

6 letters

Streetcar Desire

iowa map

iowa travels

Day Trips—Events Worthy of an Excursion

iowa grows Grow Great Tomatoes

Points of Interest in This Issue

iowa tastes You Say “Tomato”

home in iowa

Your Lot in Life

iowa celebrates

Iowa’s Seagoing Cowboys

from the archives

Summertime!

flashback: 1955

60 Years Ago in The Iowan

80 escapades Grandpa and the Ballplayer

fromtheeditor

PROUDLY PUBLISHED AND PRINTED IN IOWA BY THE PIONEER GROUP

Get Out! I had the rare pleasure of correcting Gretchen

Kauffman, The Iowan’s longtime copyeditor,

proofreader, and fact checker the other day. Normally she’s correcting me, and she’s virtually always right. But when I wrote that my wife and I had traveled thousands of miles while researching and photographing “Iowa’s Best Campgrounds,” page 20, Gretchen thought I was

Publisher Polly Clark Editor Dan Weeks Creative Director Ann Donohoe

Senior Graphic Designer Megan Johansen

Image/Photo Specialist Steve Seeman Copy Editor Gretchen Kauffman

Senior Account Executive Kimberly Hawn

Account Executives Ronda Jans

Meghan Keller Becca Wodrich

exaggerating. “Hundreds” she corrected. “It’s pretty hard to drive thousands of miles in Iowa.” But imagine my glee when I informed her that for that story alone we and our tiny vintage tent camper logged more than 2,000 miles over nine

Jim Slife Twilla Glessner Accounting Manager Allison Volker CEO

Production Manager

days. Gretchen was astounded. “I’m surprised you’re ever in the office,”

she replied. (She was correct in one sense. Nearly everyone in Iowa lives

The Iowan, ISSN (0021-0772), is published bi-monthly by Pioneer Communications, Inc., 300 Walnut Street, Suite 6, Des Moines, Iowa 50309. This issue is dated July 1, 2015, Volume 63, No. 6. All content © 2015 The Iowan/Pioneer Communications, Inc., and may not be used, reproduced, or altered in any way without prior written permission. Periodicals Postage Paid in Des Moines, Iowa, and at additional mailing offices. We cannot be held responsible for the loss or damage of unsolicited material. POSTMASTER: Send change of address to: The Iowan, 316 W. 5th St., Waterloo, IA 50701. Prices: Subscriptions — Special rate when ordered direct or by mail: six issues per year for $24. International orders require additional postage. Please call for rates. Single copies — on newsstands: $4.95; current issue by mail: $4.95 plus $3.50 S+H. Please call for quantity discount pricing. Single past issues 2005 to present: $5.95 plus S+H, two for $9.95 plus S+H; prior to 2005: $14.95 plus S+H. New Subscriptions, Renewals, Gifts: iowan.com > SUBSCRIBE subscribe@pioneermagazines.com 800-765-1690 Change of Address: iowan.com> CONTACT > Address Change subscribe@pioneermagazines.com 800-765-1690 Past Issues: subscribe@pioneermagazines.com 877-899-9977 Mail Orders: The Iowan Subscription Services P.O. Box 2516, Waterloo, IA 50704 Advertising Information: advertising@iowan.com iowan.com

near a campground.) The Iowan’s Senior Graphic Designer, Meg Johansen, and I logged 535

miles in one 14-hour day shooting “Iowa’s Murals,” page 34. Another day, five The Iowan staffers, chauffeured by Meg’s husband, Erik (whom we are nominating for a driver’s seat in the 24 hours of Le Mans next year), exceeded even that record, visiting six county fairs in one 16-hour day for “Fairathon,” a feature in our July–August 2015 issue. All told, by the time you read this, I’ll have logged well over 10,000 miles in Iowa during my past two years at The Iowan — and learned more about this wonderful state in that time than I did in all 54 previous years combined. (For the tracks of my travels, see Iowan.com/blog and scroll down to and click on “What the Heck Is This?”) If you do nothing else this summer, get out and see Iowa! There’s more here than you’d ever imagine. We hope Day Trips, page 8, and our travel articles provide a great place to start. See you on the road!

Dan Weeks, Editor editor@iowan.com iowan.com/blog facebook.com/theiowan @theiowan

Proudly printed in Iowa 10% PCW Paper Made in the USA facebook.com/theiowan

iowan.com

The Iowan_MayJune2015.indd 1

3/16/2015 8:24:22 AM

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

letters

DON’T FORGET US!

EARL WOULD BE PROUD

I just received my March/April 2015 magazine and once again enjoyed

Thank you for selecting Earl May for

the articles in it. One thing I notice

your featured Iowan this spring ["Iowan

every issue is that two of the extreme

Icon: Earl May," March/April, page 30].

northwest Iowa counties, Lyon and

Your article tells a great story, and I can

Osceola, are never mentioned. I was

only assume it took hours researching

born in Rock Rapids and now reside

and putting it together. Thanks for a

in Sibley, and we have many beautiful

great article!

places and events to see throughout the year. We also have many talented people. Sometimes I feel the same way about our politicians — the state capital being in Des Moines, they forget about us, too, since we are way up in the northwest. —Randy VanDe Berg Sibley I think you’ll be pleased to know that we spent some time in Rock Rapids recently

STREETCAR DESIRE

—William E. Shaw CEO, Earl May Seed and Nursery Shenandoah

While reading and enjoying the March/ April 2015 issue, “60 Years Ago in The Iowan,” page 71, caught my eyes and tugged my heart. The Waterloo, Cedar Falls, Waverly, and Cedar Rapids trolley jumped right off its tracks to me. As a youngster, I rode the trolley many times to visit my grandparents in Waverly.

and are featuring two of the beautiful

The engineer and conductor knew me

murals there on page 40 of this issue.

well and would often let me ride in the

We try to get to all 99 counties, but

front of the car with the engineer. It

sometimes it takes a while! —ed.

was glass all around and a fine place to be. During pheasant season, if the

KEEP IOWA BEAUTIFUL

engineer saw a bird hiding in the ditch beside the tracks, he’d stop the train, flush the bird, and shoot it. If he saw a

The Keep Iowa Beautiful Board of

second bird, he’d stop again, and the

Trustees has selected The Iowan for

conductor would take a shot so each of

the Keep Iowa Beautiful Corporation Award for enhancing the quality of life for Iowans through the written words and images of Iowa along with in-kind support to Keep Iowa Beautiful. We are delighted to have this opportunity to

them would have a pheasant dinner that night. I did not see your story in 1955, but thank you for another trip on my favorite trolley. It brought back many memories.

thank The Iowan for the commitment to helping make Iowa a better place to live, work, and raise a family.

THANKS, MR. MAY! As a lifetime Iowan, I enjoy The Iowan magazine very much! I especially

—Dennis C. Orvis, Waverly native, class of 1947 Winter Haven, Florida

enjoyed the article “Iowan Icon: Earl May.” It took me way back to my childhood in the small northwest Iowa town of Rock Valley and the time Earl

—Gerald F. Schnepf Executive Director Keep Iowa Beautiful Des Moines

May bought me my first jackknife. It was the fall of 1949, I was eight, and I’d spotted the knife in Vander Well’s hardware. Money was tight and entitlement wasn’t in our vocabulary, so I knew I’d need to earn it. When I

Healing the

Iowa is one of the most environm entally altered states in the unio n. But we’re also getting really at restoring prob good lem areas into paradises. by SUZANN E KELSEY

THE IOWAN | iowan.com

saw my mother ordering seeds from Iowa was once prairie, savanna, woodland, marshes, wetlands, and waterwa ys. Ninety-two percent of the state is now farmed. We’re proud that Iowa holds one-third of the nation’s best farmland . But because so much of our state is devoted to agricultu re, we especially treasure the natural areas that remain. And when polluted or degraded land gets restored, we celebrate .

the Earl May catalog, I asked her if her We’ve had lots of reasons to do so lately. From border to border, Iowa is home to spectacu lar reclamation projects. They show that repairing even severe ecological damage is not only possible, it’s practical. These “reverse alterations” are gorgeous . And they’re not only healing to the land — they’re restorative to us when we spend time there. Here are four transform ed places you’ll want to visit.

Davenport’s Nahant Marsh, a former EPA Superfund site, is now a model for other wetlands restorations — and a beautiful urban oasis.

March/April 2015 | THE IOWAN

iowan.com

gardening friends might buy their seeds from me if I offered to do the ordering.

PHOTO BY JULIE MALAKE

Beautiful Land

iowamap Points of Interest in This Issue

Then I looked at the back page of the seed catalog. There in big letters was an invitation to sell seeds and earn

55 606

points toward a variety of attractive 49

gadgets — including a jackknife even

24 16

38 39

bigger than the one in Vander Well’s. I 58

wrote to ask if I could be one of their seed salesmen and received a quick

1357

reply that I qualified. After canvassing the neighborhood, I put together a hefty

9 36

seed order and sent it off.

That night, I went to bed dreaming about Earl May himself putting that

3045

40 31

to me. The reality was even better: Not only did I qualify for the jackknife, but

28 5 59 18 25

43 53 2032

35 23

46 34 11

jackknife into a package and mailing it

21 50

I earned a profit on each seed packet

41 15

I sold and had enough extra points to

use for future premiums. I had “arrived.” I was a businessman. I was making a profit. I had some spending cash plus a

1. Algona — p. 52

31. Honey Creek — p. 24

new jackknife! What more could an eight-

2. Allerton — p. 39

32. Iowa City — p. 9, 38, 39

year-old boy in 1949 want?

3. Amana — p. 49, 52

33. Keokuk — p. 39, 73, 80

4. Ames — p. 37, 79

34. Knoxville— p. 23, 49

As I grew older, I often wondered whether Mr. Earl May ever knew how

5. Ankeny — p. 50

35. Le Claire— p. 16

many kids like me he helped to grow up.

6. Arnold's Park — p. 36

36. Madrid— p. 8, 27

That was my first foray in controlling my

7. Bellevue — p. 24

37. Maquoketa — p. 9, 25

own destiny. I loved it. Thank you, Mr.

8. Bloomfield — p. 8

38. Marquette — p. 24

9. Boone — p. 69

39. McGregor — p. 24

Earl May from Shenandoah, Iowa. —Lee VerMulm Cedar Falls

STAY IN TOUCH! The Iowan 300 Walnut Street, Suite 6 Des Moines, IA 50309 editor@iowan.com iowan.com > Contact Facebook.com > The Iowan

READ OUR BLOG!

10. Burlington — p. 10

40. Missouri Valley — p. 28

11. Bussey — p. 41

41. Moravia — p. 18, 19, 26

12. Carson — p. 50

42. Newton— p. 9, 42, 43

13. Cedar Falls — p. 6, 7

43. North Liberty — p. 51

14. Cedar Rapids — p. 6, 8, 10, 49, 51

44. Oskaloosa — p. 51

15. Clarinda — p. 9

45. Panora — p. 28

16. Clear Lake — p. 8

46. Pella — p. 23

17. Clinton — p. 10

47. Perry — p. 57

18. Clive — p. 50

48. Rock Rapids — p. 6, 40

19. Coon Rapids — p. 78

49. Rock Valley — p. 6

20. Coralville — p. 51, 52

50. Shenandoah — p. 6

21. Corning — p. 8

51. Sibley— p. 6

22. Danville — p. 25

52. Sioux City — p. 8, 73

iowan.com/blog features local

23. Davenport — p. 9, 10

53. Solon — p. 15, 50

characters, favorite places, little-

24. Decorah — p. 15, 22, 23, 50

54. Spencer — p. 36

known facts, and other Iowa

25. Des Moines — p. 6, 10, 13, 23, 45,

Discoveries every Friday.

46, 50, 51, 52, 53, 58, 67

55. Sprit Lake — p. 35 56. Strawberry Point — p. 27

26. Forest City — p. 9

57. Waterloo — p. 6, 78

27. Glenwood — p. 50

58. Waverly — p. 6

Like what you see? Don’t miss an

28. Grimes — p. 65

59. West Des Moines — p. 50

issue by subscribing at iowan.com

29. Grinnell— p. 42, 43, 56

60. West Okoboji — p. 35, 36, 49, 50

30. Guthrie Center— p. 28

61. Winterset — p. 9

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

SUMMER OF THE ARTS

DayTrips

JOHN WAYNE BIRTHPLACE MUSEUM

iowaxxx iowatravels

Events worthy of an excursion

Saints, Soldiers & Spies: Women and War

Wild Edibles Workshop: Dandelions & Morels

26th Annual Walleye Classic

SEE HISTORY COME TO LIFE

EAT WILD

GO FISH

Corning Corning Opera House & Cultural Center

Bloomfield, Pioneer Ridge Nature Center

Clear Lake City Park

Saturday, May 2, 7 p.m.

1339 Highway 63 wapellocounty.org 641-682-3091

800 Davis Avenue corningoperahouse.com 641-418-8037

Saturday, May 16, 10 a.m.–3 p.m.

$10/person, $20/family (preregister)

$15 adults, $7 students

Ever had dandelion root ice cream? How

Pippa White takes the stage to tell

about dandelion brats? Learn how to turn

first-person tales of heroic women of

weeds into treats with Iowa’s Wild Food

WWII. Audiences call her shows “riveting,

Ambassador Mike Krebill. Bring your sack

heartbreaking, and suspenseful” —

lunch and beverage to supplement the

and we agree! For a full schedule of

dandelion deliciousness at this hands-on

her Iowa performances on topics

workshop. After lunch go morel hunting

from the Orphan Train to Ellis Island:

with the Prairie States Mushroom Club.

pippawhiteonecompany.com

Annual Spring Plant Sale PLANT YOUR SUMMER Madrid, Iowa Arboretum Saturday–Sunday, May 2–3, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. 1875 Peach Avenue iowaarboretum.org 515-795-3216 Free admission Choose from a large selection of some

Children’s Book Illustrations and Zentangle Class

Saturday–Sunday, May 16–17, takeoff 7 a.m., weigh in 3 p.m. Downtown Clear Lake clearlakefishingclub.com 641-648-7393 $230 per team Clear Lake Fishing Club’s annual event will test your angling skills and give you a reason to spend two uninterrupted days on the waters of Clear Lake. One hundred teams will vie for the $1,000 prize and the claim of biggest fish caught and most poundage caught. Spectators welcome!

Steve Miller Band

PICTURE THIS

REDISCOVER YOUR INNER GANGSTER OF LOVE

Cedar Rapids Cedar Rapids Museum of Art

Sioux City Tyson Events Center

Saturday, May 16, Class: noon–3 p.m., Museum: 10 a.m.–4 p.m. 410 Third Avenue SE crma.org 319-366-7503

Thursday, May 21, 7:30 p.m. 401 Gordon Drive tysoncenter.com 800-593-2228 $70.50, $55, $39.50

of the most unique and interesting

Class: $35 (preregister); Museum: $5 adults, free ages 18 and under

Forty years after the original release of

perennials, shrubs, and fruiting plants

See original works by world-renowned

that will grow in Iowa — all at reasonable

rocks the house. Miller released a live

illustrators — including Iowans Grant

prices. This year’s theme is “providing

version of the classic along with two new

Wood, John Sloan, and Marvin Cone.

plants for pollinators and people.”

albums last year, and his current tour

Then relax and focus as you create art

See the website for a full listing of

proves he’s no joker when it comes to

through a mix of drawing structured

available plants.

crowd-pleasing blues-rock.

patterns and meditation. It’s called Zentangle, and it’s for ages 10 and up.

iowan.com

“The Joker,” the Steve Miller Band still

Tree Town Music Festival

of course. Local artists have turned

Iowa Sculpturefest

GET YOUR COUNTRY ON

them into unique works of art. See

CELEBRATE SCULPTURE

Forest City, Heritage Park

them unveiled and meet the artists

Newton, DMACC campus

Thursday–Sunday, May 21–24, showtimes vary

who created them at a reception to

Saturday–Sunday, June 13–14, times vary

mark the Quad City Symphony’s 100th

600 N. 2nd Avenue West iowasculpturefestival.org 641-792-1391

1811 Sage Court treetownfestival.com 615-777-6995

season. (A May 14 anniversary concert featuring world-renowned cellist

$35–$80 per day, $150 for the entire event (all general admission)

Yo-Yo Ma is sold out.)

Come for a show or camp for the

Iowa Arts Festival

weekend at the Tree Town Music Festival. Blake Shelton, Dierks Bentley, Rascal Flatts, Thomas Rhett, Lee Brice, and more are on the docket. Camping is available on-site. Pull up a lawn chair, settle back, and enjoy summer in Iowa the way it was meant to be.

$3 adults, $1 children 12 and over, free ages 11 and under Sculptures in a variety of media, plus demonstrations, live music and

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN ART

entertainment, food, and a juried exhibit

Iowa City, Downtown

and sale make this a great way to explore

Friday–Sunday, June 5–7, specific event times vary

new art. And an air-conditioned venue at

Downtown Iowa City summerofthearts.com 319-337-7944

beat the summer heat.

Free

the Newton DMACC campus helps you

International Woodcarvers Congress

Grand Opening

For three days seven blocks of downtown

HONOR THE DUKE

and national performers take the main

Maquoketa, Jackson County Fairgrounds

and side stages, a juried visual art fair

Saturday–Sunday, June 13–21, specific event times vary

Winterset John Wayne Birthplace Museum Friday–Monday, May 22–25, specific event times vary 216 S. 2nd Street johnwaynebirthplace.museum 515-462-1044 Free–$20 events, $150 Benefit Auction & Dinner

Iowa City will be packed with art. Local

and culinary row fill the streets, and a global village provides activities for children to learn about other cultures hands-on. There’s even an emerging artist pavilion for student artists.

CARVE OUT A NEW EXPERIENCE

1212 E. Quarry Street awcltd.org 563-505-2700 $5 adults, $4 seniors, free for children under 12 with adult The longest-running, most prestigious,

Western dancing at the Madison County

40th Annual Glenn Miller Festival

Fairgrounds, then continues Saturday

BLOW THAT HORN

500 entries from the U.S., Canada, and

with a ribbon cutting, museum and

Clarinda, Glenn Miller Birthplace Museum and Clarinda High School

prizes. Come see what woodcarving

The fun starts Friday with a rodeo and

birthplace tours, John Wayne experts, the Cowboy Mounted Shooters, and a benefit dinner featuring country music favorite Marty Stuart & His Fabulous Superlatives. Stick around for Sunday’s Cowboy Church.

competitively judged woodcarving show in the country draws more than England — and thousands of dollars in

Thursday–Sunday, June 11–14, specific event times vary

is all about. Educational seminars run

122 West Clark Street (museum), 100 N. Cardinal Drive (high school) glennmiller.org 712-542-2461

18–21 for viewing and sales.

June 13–20. The showroom is open June

Free–$22

100 Years, 100 Cellos CELLO-BRATE! Davenport, Figge Art Museum Friday, May 29. See website or call for time.

Trumpets howl, trombones sing, and

GET LISTED!

clarinets chirp as Glenn Miller’s birthplace

Does your organization put on an event worthy of an excursion? We’d love to consider it for inclusion in Day Trips. For more information, email calendar@iowan.com.

becomes one of the top big-band venues in the country. Hear bands from as far away as Toronto, Canada, and Osaka,

327 Brady Street qcsymphony.com 563-322-0931

Japan, plus the world-famous Glenn

$25 adults, $20 volunteers and symphony members, $10 students

Preorder your tickets à la carte via a

How do you “cellobrate” 100 years of

Miller Orchestra. Attend a craft fair and presentations on Glenn Miller himself. handy form on the website.

symphonic excellence? With 100 cellos,

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

iowatravels

take me out to the ball game! Few activities say “Iowa summer evening” like baseball. For game schedules, see team websites.

Burlington COMMUNITY FIELD Burlington Bees Monday–Saturday evening games 6:30 p.m., Sunday afternoon 2 p.m. 2712 Mt. Pleasant Street gobees.com 319-754-5705 $6 adults, $4 seniors & students, free 5 and under (all general admission) Burlington boasts one of the best stadiums in the Midwest. Built in 1947, it burned in 1971, was rebuilt by volunteers and updated in 2005 with a

Clinton

field. Forty-five skyboxes, four picnic

ASHFORD UNIVERSITY FIELD

areas, a kids’ play area, and an impressive

Clinton LumberKings

fountain just off right field make this

Evening games 6:30 p.m., afternoon 2 p.m.

one of the fanciest parks in the state.

537 Ballpark Drive lumberkings.com 563-242-0727

The million-dollar playing surface

$6 adults, $5 seniors & students, free 5 and under (all general admission)

covered stadium, comfortable seating,

The 1937 Ashford

expanded gift shop and concessions,

University Field in

state-of-the-art lighting, a hall of fame

Clinton was renovated

suite, and a party deck.

in 2005–2006 and now combines an old-school

Cedar Rapids VETERANS MEMORIAL STADIUM Cedar Rapids Kernels Evening game time is 6:35 p.m. 950 Rockford Road SW kernals.com 319-363-3887 or 800-860-3609 $6 on the grass, $12 in the seats Veterans Memorial Stadium, new in 2002, offers 12 diamond suites, three picnic areas, even box-style seats in the Premier

ballpark with three party areas for adults and a playground and fun area for kids. Clinton has had professional baseball since 1895. The LumberKings have played since 1954.

features the same type of grass as Wrigley Field. It’s just a short walk to downtown Des Moines, where there’s plenty to do after the game.

Davenport MODERN WOODMEN PARK Quad City River Bandits Monday–Friday evening games 7 p.m., Saturday 6 p.m., Sunday 1:15 or 5:15 p.m. 209 S. Gaines St. riverbandits.com 563-324-3000 $6–$14 at the gate

Des Moines

Ballpark Digest calls

PRINCIPAL PARK

Park “one of the nicest

Iowa Cubs Evening games 6:38 p.m. or 7:08 p.m., afternoon 12:08 p.m. or 1:08 p.m.

Modern Woodmen ballparks in the minors.” There’s good reason: The riverfront stadium dates to 1931 — the oldest in the Minor League,

scoreboard displays player stats, instant

One Line Drive iowacubs.com 515-243-6111

replays, and live action. Closed-circuit

$4–$28

stadium), a Space Camp, and a 300-foot

TVs in concession areas ensure you

The Iowa Cubs claim

zip line. The River Bandits also offer a

don’t miss any action.

to have the park with

uniquely Iowa twist: When the left-line

the best view in the Midwest League.

cornfield (yes, you heard it right) is at full

It’s situated at the confluence of the

height, players emerge from it onto the

Raccoon and Des Moines rivers with the

diamond during introductions.

and Club sections. A six-story LED

Iowa State Capitol looming over center

iowan.com

but with new luxury seating, a 105-foot Ferris wheel (the first in a Minor League

Figge Art MuseuM eXHiBitiON

SPRING GARDEN FESTIVAL MAY 7â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10, 2015 dmbotanicalgarden.com/SGF15

Danish Modern Design for Living Through June 21, 2015 Iconic examples of 20th century furniture design come to the Figge this spring with the exhibition Danish Modern: Design for Living. Organized by the Museum of Danish America in Elk Horn, Iowa, Danish Modern brings together a wonderful selection of the most influential pieces of postwar furniture design. The exhibition reminds us of how intertwined Danish design and our daily lives were in the post-war era, and invites us to look ahead by looking back at some of the most forward-thinking designs of the era. Sponsored by

NEW OUTDOOR GARDENS Open Daily 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.

Helge Sibast, Chair Model No. 8, 1953, Sibast Furniture, collection of Rosalie Anderson; image courtesy of the Museum of Danish America; Jens Quistgaard, Covered bowl, 1955, Minneapolis Institute of Arts; Kaj Bojesen, Hippo, Monkey and Bear figures, Goldstein Museum of Design; Verner Panton, Wire Cone Chair, 1958-1966, Minneapolis Institute of Arts.

Greater Des Moines

Botanical Garden Exploring, explaining and celebrating the world of plants

Davenport, IA â&#x20AC;˘ 563.326.7804 www.figgeartmuseum.org

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

iowagrows

GROW Great Tomatoes Jennie Smith grows as many as 3,000 tomato plants each season. She shares her secrets here.

THINKSTOCK Â®

by DEB WILEY

iowan.com

Tomatoes are America’s favorite garden

6. Support the plants. “Absolutely,

crop. So they’re easy to grow, right?

always.” Fruit too close to the ground

Well, yes. And no.

can be munched by mice and other

Just ask Jennie Smith of Des Moines, who ditched a career in insurance in

critters. Determinate tomatoes set all fruits at once, are shorter, bushier,

FAVORITE VARIETIES Jennie Smith recommends these heirloom varieties:

‘Green Zebra’ These don’t often crack and have citrusy flavors. They’re ripe when striations in the flesh turn from white to yellow.

2008 to spend more time with her ailing

and can handle smaller cages.

father. She grew up to 3,000 heirloom

Indeterminate tomatoes grow and

tomato plants per season to sell at

set fruit all season. For these,

farmers’ markets and to restaurants.

Smith recommends heavy-duty,

This year, her Butcher Crick Farm

7-foot cages made from steel wire

tomatoes will only be found at the

remesh, found at hardware stores.

Des Moines Farmers’ Market as she

Push about 1 foot of the wire under

balances her passion for growing

the ground at planting time and

A delicious orange tomato.

food with a new job. Here are her top

add an 8-foot stake to hold the

‘San Marzano’

10 tomato-growing tips.

cage in place.

The best paste tomato; Smith prefers it to ‘Amish Paste’.

1. Start with the best seeds and plants.

7. Fertilize. Smith uses aged,

‘Yellow Brandywine’ Great taste; not prone to cracking.

‘Kellogg’s Breakfast’

‘Great White’

Many growers believe heirlooms

composted cow manure. Or you

are the most tasty. And don’t settle

can add compost to the soil before

for weak, spindly transplants. “Pick

planting, then scratch in a time-

ones that are short with a thick main

release fertilizer or apply fertilizer

‘Cherokee Purple’

stem, a good, deep color, and have

at two-week intervals throughout

Sweet, almost-purple flesh.

no transparent leaves.”

the growing season. Use a balanced

‘Blue Berries’

formula such as 10-10-10 or one with a slightly larger middle number,

A newer cherry-size variety that is bright purple and sweet.

such as 5-6-5. The first element,

‘Sungold’

2. Give them plenty of sun. Tomatoes like 8 to 10 hours per day or more and set less fruit in partial shade. “They’re indigenous to South America. They really like it hot and dry.”

3. Plant them deep. Each of the fine hairs along the stems of the plants will produce roots. “The worst thing you can do is plant the tomato at the depth it is in the container.” Dig a deep enough hole to keep the top two sets of true leaves above the soil line.

4. Mulch. Smith uses a plastic liner as mulch, but organic mulch is fine. It prevents soil from being flung up onto the stems and leaves during rain or watering. “It’s like blocking their little lungs.” Mulch also controls weeds and retains soil moisture.

5. Water just enough. Avoid overhead watering. Water only the soil, not the leaves, to prevent mildew. Tomatoes need about 1 inch of water per week, depending how hot and dry the weather is. Plants in pots will likely need more. Keep soil consistently damp, but not wet.

nitrogen, feeds leaves. The second, phosphorus, helps with flower

A beefsteak, pale tomato with less acidity.

Sweet, light orange cherry-size tomato.

production. The third, potassium, assists with fruit development.

8. Prune a little. “Once fruit appears, keep the leaves two sets down from where the fruit sets; prune those below that.” Don’t pull leaves off; that can leave a gaping wound. “Once you open up the skin, it’s susceptible to disease.”

9. Rotate your crop. Smith moves her tomatoes to a different field every three years. Tomatoes deplete soil nutrients that fertilizer can’t renew. Rotation allows the soil to recover.

10. After picking, treat them right. “Don’t put tomatoes in a sunny windowsill or in the refrigerator.” Sunlight and cold both break down flavors. To hasten ripening, place tomatoes inside a paper bag with a banana or apple that emits ethylene gas.

Deb Wiley is a Des Moinesbased garden writer and regular contributor to The Iowan.

iowatastes

You Say “Tomato”

PHOTO © DANA DAMEWOOD

I say “Yes!” Here’s a sandwich that’ll make you want to plant even more.

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Tomatoes are the most popular vegetable to grow in a home garden. (And for good reason. Diane Ott Whealy, cofounder of Decorah’s Seed Savers Exchange, calls heirloom tomatoes “the gateway drug” of gardengrown vegetables.) If you’re a gardener who takes the advice of grower Jennie Smith (see page 13), you’ll probably have plenty this year and will be looking for ways to make use of them. We can help.

Open-Faced Caponata and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich Caponata, a mixture of eggplant, onions, and tomatoes, is usually served as a salad or relish. It also, as in this recipe, makes an excellent sandwich. If you are hosting a party, triple the caponata and prepare it a day or two before the big event. Buy bread from your favorite bakery and whip this up for a simple weeknight meal.

Even if you’re not a gardener, we bet

—Benjamin Smart Big Grove Brewery, Solon

the gorgeous Caponata and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich, opposite, will send you running to your local farmers’ market, community sponsored agriculture (CSA) farmer, or natural grocer. The sandwich tastes just as good at

Serves 4 1

large eggplant, diced

¼ c. plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus more for brushing the focaccia

it looks — tangy, juicy, fresh, and crispy

½ c. yellow onion, diced

all at once — the perfect snack or light

cloves garlic, minced

1. Preheat the oven to 375ºF. 2. On a baking sheet, toss the eggplant with ¼ cup of the oil and roast until browned, 25 to 35 minutes.

3. In a large sauté pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it is translucent. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook 1 to 2 more minutes. Add the pine nuts and currants and stir to combine. Add the tomato puree, balsamic vinegar, thyme, and roasted eggplant. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

4. Increase the oven temperature to 450ºF.

5. Brush each slice of focaccia with some olive oil and spoon the caponata on

summer meal. And, says Chef Benjamin

½ t. red pepper flakes

top. Place on a baking sheet and toast

Smart of Big Grove Brewery in Solon, it’s

1 T. pine nuts

in the oven for about 5 minutes, until

quick and easy to make, too.

1 T.

the focaccia is golden brown and

dried currants or raisins

½ c. tomato puree

crispy on the edges. Remove from the

and basil from Wild Wood Farms, also

2 T.

oven and top with the tomato slices.

in Solon, so they’re as fresh as possible.

½ t. dried thyme leaves

Garnish each sandwich with some

Fresh and local is the theme of New

6×6-inch slices focaccia

of the basil and shaved Parmigiano-

Prairie Kitchen, Stories and Seasonal

2–3

large heirloom tomatoes, sliced thick

Reggiano. Eat immediately!

fresh basil, for garnish

shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish

Smart gets his tomatoes, eggplant,

Recipes from Chefs, Farmers, and

Artisans of the Great Plains. The book features recipes from four Iowa restaurants and 23 Iowa

balsamic vinegar

Recipe reprinted with permission from New Prairie Kitchen by Summer Miller, Agate Midway, 2015.

farmers and artisans — including Jennie Smith’s Butcher Crick Farms. The other featured recipes and food sources are just over the border, many in eastern

SOME LIKE IT FRESH

Nebraska and southeastern South

If you’re one who does, you’ll love

Dakota, making the book a great source

this 240-page tour of some of the

of inspiration for Iowa locovores.

best hand-crafted tastes in our

Recipes are arranged by season and

region. Its 52 recipes, arranged by

accompanied with Dana Damewood’s

season, include starters, bread,

gorgeous photography of the food —

breakfast, soups and salads,

and the land and people that produce

main courses, sides, sauces and

and prepare it. You’d expect to find

dressings, desserts, and drinks.

heirloom tomatoes in such a book,

A resource list lets you contact

along with artisan-raised meats, cheeses

the growers and artisans directly.

and other dairy products, fruits, and

You’ll use it in the kitchen — but the

nuts. But there are some surprises, too:

photographs are so evocative, you’ll

Gourmet vinegars, anyone?

want to display it on a coffee table.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

homeiniowa

Your Lot in Life Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you do with what you have that counts. story and photography by DAN WEEKS

This house near Le Claire faces south, has large windows on the south side, and features an overhang that lets low-angle, cool-season sunlight penetrate but shields the house from the high-angle, midsummer rays. An outdoor patio nestled in an inside corner also enjoys a southern exposure. The homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s facade was built of the same limestone on which the house stands; horizontal lines in the siding harmonize with the striations in the rock.

iowan.com

Some houses, such as this striking contemporary, opposite, have all the luck. Built in a spectacular spot and attractively placed on the land, it’s a painting awaiting an artist. It seems to beckon you inside — if nothing view. We’re irresistibly drawn to such houses — even if we wouldn’t normally consider each one our style. We may not all own properties perched on a ledge overlooking a picturesque lake. But postcardworthy houses like this one can teach us much

Driveway

Garage

N tio Pa

else, so you can enjoy the attractive

This landscape plan gets the details right. The house is situated to the north, leaving a sunny yard to the south. It’s oriented east-west for maximum sun exposure; a patio, pergola, and raised lawn take advantage of southern exposure as well. The garage and plantings shield the home from northerly winds.

House Patio Raised Lawn

about how to make the most of our own home’s setting — however humble it may be. Because what makes a place irresistible has more to do with universal human preferences than with a particular architectural, decorating, or landscaping style.

Lawn

Here are how to satisfy a few of those desires — whether you’re building, remodeling, or landscaping.

Sunshine Sunshine makes everything look brighter and feel warmer, safer, and more inviting. So:

Place your house on the north edge of your property and outdoor living features such as decks, patios, terraces, and porches to the south. If you must build on the south end of a small lot, consider constructing a light-colored fence to the north to bounce reflected sunlight into a shady area.

Build on an east-west axis so the longest dimension of your house faces south. The majority of its rooms will get

Add sheltering features: Well-placed trees, outbuildings,

direct sunshine — lightening your mood, decreasing the need

landscaping, and fencing contribute to a sense of coziness

for artificial light, and minimizing your heating bills.

and security.

A view

Create outdoor rooms: Gazebos, arbors, pergolas, and

Perhaps it’s an atavistic desire to keep our eye out for predators, or perhaps there’s just something inherently calming about a long line of sight. In any case:

plantings can define outdoor spaces, partially screen them from others’ view, and offer some protection from weather. Locate decks and patios near the house, not out in the open.

Choose a building site with at least one long sight line. Achieve this by choosing a slightly elevated portion of

A connection to surroundings

your lot or by placing your home where you’ll be able to look

forever out of place.

between and past neighboring houses or natural features.

Consider the outlook when planning windows.

Use natural materials to ground your house to its location. One reason older houses seem to harmonize with

More are not necessarily better: Placement is key. Ideally,

their surroundings is that they were often built from materials

windows each frame an attractive view with a foreground,

found on site.

middleground, and background.

Pay attention to line and scale. Stand back and consider

A sense of enclosure

the whole composition when selecting a house style. Choose

Houses that stand alone tend to feel uncomfortably exposed.

Houses that bear no relation to what’s around them can seem

one that complements the big picture.

Choose a location that backs up to shelter such as a grove, a hillside, a group of other buildings.

Dan Weeks is editor of The Iowan.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

34 acres of beauty to explore

Kids will love our Awardwinning Children’s Garden!

1927 E. Orange Rd., Waterloo www.CedarValleyArboretum.org CVArboretum_MAIowan_2015.indd 1

1/20/15 11:42 AM

This is ahh-mazing. Stroll through a tranquil garden that’s home to 90 varieties of roses. Find your groove at the nationally renowned Iowa City Jazz Festival. Explore the Midwest’s largest and most diverse collection of 1930’s Art Deco architecture. Meander among larger-than-life sculptures in the John and Mary Pappajohn Sculpture Park— one of the nation’s largest public collections. Extraordinary art and uncommon culture come together in Iowa. Discover unexpected trip ideas at TRAVELIOWA.COM.

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AltoonaChamber_MJIowan_2015.pdf

altoona QUALITY OF LIFE GROWS HERE

The Handcrafted Escape

Great Entertainment & Attractions

Willkommen to the Amana Colonies! Seven charming villages where you’ll experience our unique German culture, savor our cuisine, sip our locally crafted wines and beers, and marvel at our handcrafted products.

Plan your escape to the Amana Colonies.

1(800) 579-2294 www.amanacolonies.com

1/26/15 1/13/14 12:09 12:39PM PM

Healthy Living & Attitude

Photography by Diane Thomas

AmanaColonies_MAIowan_2015.indd 1 ACCVB_1.13.indd 1

COME EXPERIENCE THE THRILL ON THE MAQUOKETA RIVER! Manchester Whitewater Park kayaking, play boating, boogie boarding, tubing, fishing, and picnicking Schram Park Home of the Hartwick Huskys Ski Team Shows and Learn to Ski Events Backbone State Park cabins, camping, biking, hiking trails, rapelling rock bluffs, fishing, boating, flat water paddling, events center, and picnicking The Watershed canoe and kayak rental FOR QUESTIONS EMAIL: delawarecountyiatourism@gmail.com

www.manchesterwhitewater.com • www.delawarecountytourism.com DelawareCo_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

Great Shopping & Restaurants

www.AltoonaChamber.org

3/27/15 3:06 PM

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

3/11/15

CAMP 14 GROUNDS IOWA’S

BEST

great places to spend a weekend — or a vacation!

story and photography by DAN WEEKS

This tent site on a peninsula at Honey Creek State Park beckons campers with its expansive view of Lake Rathbun.

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May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

Iowa is a camping paradise.

Even on major holiday weekends, traffic is manageable. And the drive to just about any Iowa campground is scenic and leisurely, so your vacation starts before you even arrive. Campgrounds are generally well maintained and staffed with hosts who take pride in welcoming you to their little piece of heaven. Campers tend to be neighborly, too — if you pull in after dark, don’t be surprised when someone grabs a flashlight to help guide you into your spot. Iowa’s campgrounds let you revisit an era when families spent lots of time together, waved and talked to their neighbors, shared food around grills and campfires, watched one another’s children play, set up communal volleyball courts, splashed in the creek, swam in the lake, and just enjoyed being outdoors. My wife and I traveled literally thousands of miles and spent dozens of nights in Iowa campgrounds for this story, and each of our favorites felt a bit like the best aspects of a small town circa 1955. In them, we met cross-country bicyclists, retirees taking the road trip of a lifetime, and local families who’d been coming to the same campground for generations. Camping is a wonderful way to learn things about your destination that you otherwise wouldn’t — and to get tips about other favorite getaway spots. It’s also a great way to expose kids or grandkids to nature, to relax without the hassle of plane tickets and hotel reservations, to hold a family reunion, or to learn a new hobby — lots of campgrounds have outfitters nearby where you can try everything from biking to kayaking with minimal outlay and maximum enjoyment. Iowa’s campgrounds are one of its great unsung natural resources. Here are 14 of our favorites, along with what we liked best about them — and where to go online for more information. See you at the campground!

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Everybody and their dog loves Twin Springs Trout Stream, left. It flows through the middle of Decorah’s Pulpit Rock Campground.

BEST ALL-IN-ONE DESTINATION Pulpit Rock Campground

505 Pulpit Rock Road, Decorah 563-382-9551 campground information: decorahia.org/prpr.asp?id=prpulpit_rock area information: decoraharea.com One of Iowa’s most spectacular campgrounds — and our all-around favorite — is a city park with nearly everything your nature-loving heart could desire. It’s situated in a secluded, sun-dappled valley surrounded by sheer limestone bluffs, a crystal-clear trout stream, and the Upper Iowa River running along one edge. You can hear the water burble, watch the last rays of the sun illuminate Pulpit Rock, wave at bicyclists passing on the trail, and feel like you’re at the center of a universe so pleasant you may not want to leave your lawn chair. When you do, you have choices galore. WALKING: You’re only a mile and a half from downtown Decorah down a paved, sculpture-enhanced, river-hugging nature trail. FISHING: The campsite’s Twin Springs Trout Stream is one of Iowa's best. WADING: The shallow stream is also a favorite with supervised kids. PADDLESPORTS AND TUBING: Kayakers and canoeists can launch right from a campsite. Bring your boat or rent from local outfitters. CYCLING: The 11-mile Trout Run Trail runs through the campsite and circles the town in a spectacular scenic tour of bluffs, fields, woods, prairie, and river. HIKING AND MOUNTAIN BIKING: An 18-mile web of mapped singletrack trails ranging from recreational to technical is nearby. NEARBY ATTRACTIONS: Decorah’s charm includes shops, dining, and culture, including Luther College, the Vesterheim Museum, and Seed Savers Exchange. TIP: Try to check in midweek in peak season. The campground has 133 sites, but it’s quite popular and doesn’t accept reservations. Bring or rent a bicycle — Trout Run is one of Iowa’s best trails.

Pulpit Rock’s environs look more like Colorado than Iowa. Spring-fed Dry Run Creek, above left, tumbles down a limestone waterfall before flowing along the edge of the campground.

MORE ALL-’ROUNDERS: LAKE RED ROCK 1105 N. Highway T15, Knoxville, 641-828-7522, redrockarea.com Hundreds of campsites; beaches, boat ramps, fishing; interpretive programs; a paved 13-mile hiking/biking trail; a lake observation tower; and easy access to Pella’s Dutch charm and Knoxville’s sprint car action make this a favorite destination. It combines the great outdoors with access to unique small towns.

Trout Run Trail, above right, carves through limestone bluffs above Decorah.

SAYLORVILLE LAKE 5600 NW 78th Avenue, Johnston, 515-276-4656, recreation.gov A seemingly endless and varied supply of campsites; countless beaches, playgrounds, and picnic areas; a marina; boat rentals; and the scenic 23-mile Neal Smith bike trail to downtown Des Moines mix all the amenities

These rainbow and brown trout, left, were caught in the campground.

of a classic lake vacation with the attractions of Iowa’s biggest city.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

BEST VIEW

Pikes Peak State Park 32264 Pikes Peak Road, McGregor 563-873-2341 campground information: iowadnr.gov reservations: iowastateparks.reserveamerica.com area information: mcgreg-marq.org Visitors from around the world are astounded by the vista here. From the a sheer bluff 500 feet above the Mississippi River you can watch huge barge tows navigate the main channel; get visually lost in the maze of islands, backwaters, and wetlands beyond; and look down upon cruising waterbirds at the confluence of the Missisippi and Wisconsin Rivers. Bring binoculars! The panorama couldn’t be more accessible: Paved pathways take you from the parking lot right to an overlook. The adjoining wooded campground offers a cozy contrast to the I-can-see-for-miles lookout. But there’s a lot more do here. PICNICKING: Handicapped-accessible tables and shelters share the bluff-top view. EFFIGY MOUNDS NATIONAL MONUMENT: See ancient burial sites in the forms of animals 7 miles north. HIKING: A network of trails ranges from leisurely to strenuous. Paths — many with wooden stairs and boardwalks — lead from the overlook, along the bluff, and up and down steep draws past waterfalls and through shady woodlands. WILDLIFE: Last time we visited, a friendly buck deer strolled right up to us. A collection of feeders near the shelter allowed us to walk into the midst of a swarm of hummingbirds — an extraordinary experience. BIKING: The park is on the Iowa Great River Road and the 130-mile Northeast State Park Bike Route. MOUNTAIN BIKING: A trail from the park’s Homestead parking area provides a thrilling route to McGregor. BOATING AND FISHING: McGregor’s launching ramp and boat rental outfits are your portal to a world of river fishing, backwater exploring, and picnicking and swimming on island beaches. MCGREGOR AND MARQUETTE: These colorful river towns are just a couple miles from the park and have walkable main streets alive with eateries, antiques emporiums, and specialty shops. TIP: Reserve your spot or arrive early. The 77 sites fill up fast, especially on weekends during fall foliage season.

The view from Pikes Peak overlook, above top, is especially stunning in late afternoon light. Hiking trails, above bottom, lead into secluded draws with waterfalls and wildlife.

MORE GREAT VIEWS: BELLEVUE STATE PARK 21466 429th Avenue, Bellevue, 563-872-4019, iowadnr.com, bellevueia.com About 80 miles downriver from Pikes Peak, Bellevue offers another superb river panorama — not quite as high, but with a terrific view of the quaint river town of Bellevue and its lock and dam. There are hiking trails, a butterfly garden, and in-town strolling and shopping, too.

HITCHCOCK NATURE CENTER 27792 Ski Hill Loop, Honey Creek, 712-366-4900, pottcoconservation.com From the top of Hitchcock’s 45-foot-tall observation tower, bluffs, woodlands, prairie, and the Missouri River valley spread out at your feet like a landscape painting. Enjoy spectacular sunsets and birdwatching. A great little campground, rentable cabins, lots of hiking trails, and nature center make this a must-stop destination near the intersection of I-680 and I-29.

iowan.com

The view through the natural bridge at Maquoketa Caves State Park, above, offers a window on a lush green landscape with its own refreshingly cool microclimate. More than a dozen caves dot the park.

BEST GEOLOGY

Maquoketa Caves State Park 10970 98th Street, Maquoketa 563-652-5833 campground information: iowadnr.gov reservations: iowastateparks.reserveamerica.com area information: maquoketachamber.com There’s a Hobbit-like character to Maquoketa Caves State Park. In a lush, secluded valley, the collapsed roof of a giant cavern left rocky cliffs, a natural bridge, a 17-ton balanced rock, and a web of caves behind. You expect to see Bilbo Baggins pop up around every mossy boulder. If the word “cave” makes you think “claustrophobic,” you’ll change your mind here: The 1,100-foot-long Dance Hall Cave is a spacious, electrically lit wonderland of rocks, streams, and caverns. The wooded campsite beneath towering pines on the valley rim offers a sun-dappled contrast to the caves’ cool, dim interiors. CAVING: Casual visitors can stick to wooden stairways and paved paths to see the major attractions, but many smaller caves beg for further exploration. HIKING: It’s not all underground: Six miles of trails take you through wooded valleys and an oak savannah. PICNICKING: There are lots of picnic tables and two open shelters in the park.

BIKING: The park is on the 130-mile Northeast State Park Bike Route. INTERPRETIVE CENTER: At the park’s entrance, a hewn-limestone building houses detailed information about cave geology, the park’s history, and the area’s prehistory. MAQUOKETA: A thriving small town with a newly streetscaped downtown, a burgeoning arts organization, and lots of shopping and eating and drinking options is just 8 miles away. TIP: Feeling adventurous? Bring a flashlight (better yet: a strap-on headlamp) and some clothes you don’t mind getting dirty as you explore smaller caves and side passages.

MORE GEOLOGY GEODE STATE PARK 3333 Racine Avenue, Danville, 319-392-4601, iowadnr.gov Located in one of the prime places in the state to find geodes — hollow rocks filled with sparkling mineral crystals, the park has a display of the gemlike finds at the park office. You can’t remove them from the park, but you can hunt for them nearby (keokukiowatourism .org/geode.htm). The park also has trails and lake activities, including excellent fishing.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

BEST RESORT ACCESS

Honey Creek State Park 12194 Honey Creek Place, Moravia 641-724-3739 campground information: iowadnr.gov reservations: iowastateparks.reserveamerica.com

Honey Creek Resort State Park 12633 Resort Drive, Moravia resort information: 641-724-9100 reservations: 877-677-3344 information and reservations: honeycreekresort.com You like sleeping in the great outdoors, rustling up a campfire, or retreating to a rustic campground or cabin, but also enjoy the amenities of a classic resort. Honey Creek State Park, adjoining — and not to be confused with — Honey Creek Resort State Park, offers the best of both worlds. Both parks are on the shores of Lake Rathbun. The resort has an RV park with 20 sites, but for a traditional camping experience, venture to Honey Creek State Park just across the bay. It has 149 wooded campsites, including our favorites: 67 and 68, sites with a sweeping lake view (page 20). Reserve ’em both and bring your friends. Or rent a simple cabin. Enjoy that park’s walking trails, boat ramp, picnic shelters, and lake access, then head to the resort for: BOATING, TUBING, CANOEING, KAYAKING, PADDLEBOARDING, WINDSURFING, WATERSKIING, SAILING, FISHING, AND SWIMMING: A beach, launching ramp, and marina are close by. The resort rents canoes, kayaks, jet skis, speedboats, fishing boats, and pontoon boats. BICYCLING AND WALKING: Miles of trails wind through the resort, which also rents many kinds of bicycles. WATERPARK, FINE DINING, SNACK BAR, COCKTAILS: Available in Honey Creek’s classic, Craftsman-style lodge. GOLF: The Preserve on Rathbun Lake, an 18-hole, championship links-style course, was voted one of the 10 best new public courses by Golf Digest in 2009. TIP: Have a really large group with varied budgets, lodging preferences, and favorite activities? Between the two, the parks can accommodate them all — from elegant lodge rooms to resort cabins to RV parks to tenting sites — making it a great choice for a family reunion or other event. Rent a pontoon boat and tour the lake!

CHECK FIRST Iowa lakes have occasional algae blooms that limit swimming. Check the DNR’s water quality hotline (319-353-2613) or website (iowadnr.gov/Recreation/ BeachMonitoring.aspx) before your beach vacation.

iowan.com

Boating, tubing, and swimming head the list of attractions at Honey Creek Resort State Park beach, above. The lobby of the Craftsman-style lodge, left, leads to luxurious accommodations, fine dining, a snack bar, and an indoor water park. One of the resort’s luxury cabins, below, can accommodate a large family.

Ledges State Park has been an idyllic retreat for generations of Iowans. Children wade in Pea’s Creek, above, as a summer afternoon wanes. Water-carved, sheer sandstone canyon walls, right, provide a sculpted backdrop for hiking, picnicking, and other activities.

MOST PICTURESQUE Ledges State Park

1515 P Avenue, Madrid 515-432-1852 campground information: iowadnr.gov reservations: iowastateparks.reserveamerica.com area: booneiowa.us Pea’s Creek sunny canyon is often alive with visitors strolling through a stunning natural art gallery of abstract sandstone compositions. The park is an easy day trip from Ames or Des Moines. Many visitors don’t even realize it has a 92-site campground. But there’s more to explore here than a day allows. The RV sites, in the filtered sun of an oak savannah on the canyon rim, are perfect retreats at day’s end. Tenters can walk broad paths to pick from 12 tent sites on wooded peninsulas overlooking the river valley — a location that combines a lofty vantage with a feeling of seclusion. WADING: Everyone enjoys walking the canyon’s clear stream. A sandy bottom, rounded sandstone boulders, schools of minnows, and a gentle current make it kidfriendly; occasional pools allow for total immersion. FISHING AND BOATING: The Des Moines River offers kayaking, canoeing, and fishing along the park’s west edge. PICNICKING: Strategically placed tables and grills scattered along the sun-dappled canyon floor make this a central Iowa favorite. There are also reservable shelters.

HIKING: Thirteen miles of trails with cut-limestone or wooden stairs lead from the canyon floor through leafy tunnels of trees and along boardwalks atop canyon walls; overlooks offer vistas of the river valley. The place is particularly popular in fall when the hardwoods blaze. HISTORY: It’s fun to look for bygone visitors’ elaborately carved initials in the soft rock, some dating back to the Victorian era. (New graffiti are strictly prohibited.) NEARBY: Boone’s thriving downtown and the Boone & Scenic Valley Railway are just 4 miles away. TIP: Staying at the park and visiting both the canyon and the Railway make for a great family weekend.

MORE PICTURESQUENESS BACKBONE STATE PARK, 1282 120th Street, Strawberry Point, 563-924-2000, iowadnr.gov, strawberrychamber.com The Devil’s Backbone, a rough spine of dolomite limestone topped with wind-twisted cedars, is the main attraction here. It’s reminiscent of a mountain ridge towering over the valley below. Some of Iowa’s best rock climbing and trout fishing plus a lake and rentable cabins make Iowa’s oldest state park one of its best.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

You’re almost guaranteed to see deer at Springbrook State Park. An inquisitive fawn, above, peeks at visitors. The park’s placid lake, right, ends in a wildlife-rich marsh, making it a popular canoeing destination.

MOST ACCESSIBLE WILDLIFE Springbrook State Park

2437 160th Road, Guthrie Center 641-747-3591 campground information: iowadnr.gov reservations: iowastateparks.reserveamerica.com area information: guthriecountytourism.com A classic Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) park built in the 1930s, Springbrook offers 119 campsites where families can experience close encounters of the natural kind. Deer casually stroll the park’s woodlands and campground; it’s not unusual to sight dozens on a single evening walk. Beaver lodges and lots of beaver-felled trees are on view at the marsh at the head of the park’s lake, and heron and other birds and wildlife frequent the park. HIKING: The nature trail around the lake — part of 13 miles of trails in the park — is a mild jaunt with constant lake and woodland views and virtually guaranteed wildlife sightings. SWIMMING: There’s a sandy beach with a gradual drop-off and an elaborate, CCC-built stone bathhouse with concessions. WATERSPORTS: A ramp and dock make launching canoes, kayaks, and fishing rowboats easy. FISHING: Even novices can reliably pull up sunnies right off the grassy dam; fishing piers dot the shoreline. 28

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BIKING: The 90-mile Central State Park Bike Route connects Springbrook with Ledges State Park and Big Creek State Park. NEARBY: Stroll around Guthrie Center’s newly restored downtown (7 miles away) or visit the Guthrie County Historical Village (panora.org/museum) in Panora (12 miles away).

MORE WILDLIFE WILSON ISLAND STATE PARK 32801 Campground Lane, Missouri Valley, 712-642-2069, iowadnr.com This park abuts the DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge and Visitor Center (fws.gov/refuge/desoto), the site of spectacular waterbird migrations in spring and fall. Wilson Island State Park was badly battered by Missouri River flooding and will take time to recover, but it remains open to camping.

Dan Weeks is editor of The Iowan.

GO CAMPING!

WALNUT ACRES Historic Town * Exploration * Beautiful River Your next outdoor adventure begins here! Visit our many campgrounds, cave adventures or relax in cozy cabins.

90 ACRES OF FAMILY FUN!

For more information: 563-873-2186

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“Our Secret Is Out...North Central Iowa’s Most Unique Recreation Area”

AMENITIES INCLUDE: Camp Host, 54 spacious campsites with 6 pull-throughs, 2 Fishing Ponds, 3 Shelter Houses, 18 hole Disc Golf, Miniature Golf, Foot Golf, Walking Trail, 1.3 mile Intra-Park, Trail Head to 12 mile Bike Trail, Playgrounds, Sand Volleyball, Shower House, Severe Weather Shelter for 150 Persons, Wild Flower Prairies... ALL IN A TRANQUIL SETTING! Call City Hall 319-267-2245 or email callison@netins.com WWW.VISITWILDERPARK.COM

Nestled beside the Maquoketa River in Monticello between Dubuque and Cedar Rapids, Walnut Acres is a family friendly camping destination! Relax in your RV, tent, or one of our camper rentals or cabins!

Try our NEW POOL Open April–October 22128 Hwy 38 N. Monticello, IA 319-465-4665

Free Entertainment!

Glenn Miller Band - Sunda y, June 1

SPORTSMAN PARK CAMPGROUND

walnutacrescampground.com

4, 7:00 pm

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If you enjoy spending time outdoors, you need to check out our 19 fantastic campgrounds! We can accomodate everything from tents to RVs. Cabins are also available to rent at many locations.

FIND A CAMP GROUND!

CAMPING * CABINS LODGE * BIKE TRAIL Dawson, IA 515-465-3577 www.conservation.co.dallas.ia.us DallasCoConserv_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

FIND THINGS TO DO!

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May/June 2015

3/18/15 8:53 AM

THE IOWAN

GO CAMPING!

RV Dreams Begin Here!

Alden River View RV Park

1 Mile North of Dubuque on Hwy 52 (563) 583-5730

www.coulervalleyrv.net CoulerValleyRV_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

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Sleepy Hollow RV Park & Campground A family owned and operated campground in east central Iowa. Fun activities for kids of all ages every weekend during the summer. In-ground swimming pool, fishing lake, convenience store, laundry, RV sites for tents to 40’ RV’s, primitive to full hook-up. Reservations encouraged. Conveniently located off I-80 at exit 230.

*Potable Water and Dump Station on Site

1504 Water Street Alden, Iowa 515-859-3344

319.828.4900 • shcamping@southslope.net • www.sleepyhollowia.com SleepyHollow_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

All sites sitting on the beautiful Iowa River in the Green Belt. Wonderful shelter house, park and swimming pool just blocks away. $12.00 per night 18 sites w/electrical hook up, fire ring & picnic table Tent campers welcome as well!

lorriecityofaldenia@hotmail.com

2/19/15 9:23 AM

Miner’s Creek M i n e r ’ s C r e e kM i n e r ’ s C r e e k d e away H iH d eiaway H i d e away

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Ca mpgrounds, RV Park & Cabins

Miner’sRoad Creek Rd 1304 Miner’s1304 Creek IA 52052 Guttenberg,Guttenberg, IA 52052

Host: Dennis Schlueter family Dennis Schlueter 563-880-2571 563-880-2571 www.minerscreekhideaway.com

minerscreekhideaway@hotmail.com minerscreekhideaway@hotmail.com

www.minerscreekhideaway.com

Paradise Valley

Private Resort Summer Time Fun For The Whole Family! Located 7 miles South of McGregor, Iowa just off the Great River Road Seasonal sites, holiday events, 8 miles ATV trails, swimming & fishing ponds, play ground, convenience store Near Sny Magill trout stream & only ¼ mi. to Mississippi river access For seasonal information call Sandy 563-880-7300 or Shane 563-880-2426 Office 563-873-9632 19745 Keystone Rd. #2 Garnavillo, IA 52049

paradisevalleynews.net

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Dennis Schlueter 563-880-2571 www.minerscreekhideaway.com minerscreekhideaway@hotmail.com MinersCreek_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

www.boonecounty.iowa.gov/conservation

CHIMNEY ROCK CAMPGROUND

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Dennis Schlueter 563-880-2571 www.minerscreekhideaway.com minerscreekhideaway@hotmail.com

Make R Campground YOUR Campground! 26 acres of land and 11 acres of water combine to make a great camping experience! Near the Charles City Whitewater Park! 1910 Clark St. Charles City, IA 641-257-0549 rcamp@fiai.net

www.rcampground.com

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Visit us at Don Williams or Swede Point Parks for all your outdoor adventures including: camping, fishing, golfing, and cabins. Or visit the High Trestle Trail Bridge. Call: 515-353-4237

3/25/15 9:12 AM

“NORTHEAST IOWA’S BEST KEPT SECRET” Canoe, Kayak, Cabin rentals and Livery service

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF SERVICE (1995 - 2015) Check Out traveliowa.com/thisisiowa And see Napoleon kayaking at Chimney Rock!!

3312 Chimney Rock Road, Cresco 563-735-5786 OR 877-787-2267

WWW.CHIMNEYROCKS.COM

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May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

Where the Story of American Agriculture Comes to Life www.LHF.org

Stop and pick the flowers!

Miss Effie's Country Flowers & Garden Stuff A unique “U-Pick” flower farm. One full acre of heirloom flowers and herbs. Come enjoy our Grant Wood landscape and cut the perfect blossoms for your bouquet! 27387 130th Ave Donahue IA 52746 563-282-4338 Hours: Th-F 9-5 pm, Sat-9-3pm, Sun-12-3pm

www.misseffiesflowers.com

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319.234.4567

Hartman Reserve Summer Camps Cedar Falls, IA 319-277-2187 www.BlackHawkCountyParks.com

Special Occasion ~ U Your nfo rge tta bl e

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Fascinating Midwest Winery Experience

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

3/26/15

IOWA’S ORIGINAL BARN QUILT PROJECT

BARN QUILTS OF GRUNDY COUNTY

For more information, please contact: 705 F Ave/ PO Box 85 Grundy Center, IA 50638 319-825-3606 www.grundycountyia.com

Delaware

County Iowan Sept/Oct 2013 Historical CLIENT: Society SECTION: Nine Buildings PROOF #: 1 (Restored Lenox DATE: 07-09-2013College): Civil War

Monument and Resources. Local, School, Farm, Railroad, Pharmacy and Natural History displays. Listed on Iowa Scenic Byway and National Register Historic Places 563.926.2639 www.delcoiowahistory.org

PRAIRIE HOMESTEAD 26TH ANNUAL ANTIQUE POWER ! COUNTRY CRAFT SHOW

2015

August 14, 15 & 16 FEATURING...

ALLIS CHALMERS TRACTORS and EQUIPMENT, ADVANCE-RUMELY TRACTORS ! STOVER GAS ENGINES Plenty of great food all 3 days!

Contact Info: TRACTOR PULL Mike Genrich . . . . 515-361-0806 DEMONSTRATIONS AND CRAFT & ART SHOW Glenella Kelley . . 515-851-2600 GAS ENGINES & MODELS Jerry Holmes . . . . 515-293-0379 SHOW MANAGER Dave Nelson . . . . 515-571-6838

QUILT DRAWING “JEWEL PATCH”

TRACTOR DRAWING

ALLIS CHALMERS TRACTOR by North Central Iowa Antique Tractor Club Herding Sheep, Calves & Ducks

ANTIQUE TRACTOR PULL

August 14 (evening) & August 15 (afternoon)

1179 Taylor Ave., Belmond, Iowa

Gates open at 7:00 a.m. daily Admission: $7.00 for all weekend Children Under 5: FREE

ENTERTAINMENT: FRIDAY, SATURDAY & SUNDAY Bill Dewey & The Dynamics

Restored 1930’s Farmstead and Center Twp. Schoolhouse!

LEANING TREE BORDER COLLIES

Located at the Jenison-Meacham Memorial Arts Center and Farmstead

ADVANCE~RUMELY

Spark Show and Fireworks Fri., Aug. 14 at Dusk!

SITE OF THE 2015 NATIONAL PLOWING CONTEST

August 14 & 15 August 15 & 16

Iowa Contest

U.S.A. PLOWING ORGANIZATION

National Contest

Belmond Area Arts Council on Facebook

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Take a step back into small-town Iowa History! Visit the Historic Burkard Riegel Blacksmith Shop 210 Mill St, Clermont, IA Open Memorial Day–Labor Day for self-guided tours. Guided tours by appointment. Call (563)423-5561

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AGRICULTURAL INNOVATION on DISPLAY – SEE IT TODAY! Bring this ad and receive $2 off adult admission.

SEE: Tractors & Implements DO: Shell & Grind Corn, Milk a Cow LEARN: Iowa’s Agricultural Heritage HeartlandAcresUSA.com Phone: 319.332.0123 Independence, Iowa

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May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

silosandsmokestacks.org

iowan.com

Iowa’s

MURALS Epic artwork is springing up all over the state. Why? by DAN WEEKS

ccording to Spirit Lake artist Jack Rees, opposite, West Okoboji is home to the world’s largest mural painted by a single artist — and he’s just finishing it. Nearby Rock Rapids has 28 murals — and counting. The city plans to add two more each year for the foreseeable future. Decorah’s Carl Homstad is known as “Iowa’s muralist.” He’s painted dozens across the state. A group known as the Walldogs descended on Keokuk in 2006 and left it, four days later, with an elegant mural in the style of classic, early-20th-century hand-painted wall advertising. Perhaps not since the 1930s have murals enjoyed such a heyday here. That’s when Grant Wood, Iowa’s most iconic regionalist artist, headed the Works Progress Administration’s (WPA)

project for Iowa. That effort installed murals in public buildings statewide. Wood found inspiration for his murals in a quote from the 19th-century American statesman Daniel Webster: “When tillage begins, other arts follow.” By that logic, farmers are the first artists — and murals about rural life bring the process of creation and representation full circle. Perhaps no wonder Iowa was and is fertile ground for murals. Perhaps also, the scale of Iowa’s landscape lends itself to big art. Or the intimate sense of community here is one people want to capture and commemorate. Or the prairie heritage and the achievements that followed are ones we’re fond of remembering. Or all of the above. In any case, we’re a state rich in epic artwork. Here are a few of our favorites — some old, some on which the paint is barely dry.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

Interior, Okoboji Classic Cars, Jack Rees 810 Jeppeson Road, West Okoboji

VIRTUAL REALITY We’re going to call it a mural, but what artist Jack Rees has done inside the more than 60,000-square-foot building near the corner of Routes 71 and 86 in West Okoboji is to murals what Disneyland is to movies: It takes a two-dimensional experience and creates an all-encompassing world. “Oh, my God!” Those are the first three words almost everyone says when they walk through the door and view Rees’ rendering of Spencer’s Grand Avenue, circa 1960-something. The entire street is re-created with three-dimensional building facades facing a street filled with real restored vintage cars. Rees is a master of perspective: The cars are full-size and the buildings half-size, but somehow it all works. Everything looks so real you’re tempted to try to open a storefront door and sit down at a counter with the painted patrons for a Coke. Streets intersect and trail off to the horizon in three directions Breathtaking doesn’t begin to describe it.

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If you turn around upon entry, the doors through which you just walked have disappeared, replaced by cars headed out of town, above. It’s enough to make you think you’ve entered a time machine. Turn the corner at the end of the street and you’re on the Okoboji lakefront at Arnolds Park. Round another corner and you find yourself at a drive-in watching American Graffiti in a field of midcentury cars — some real, parked in front of the screen; some painted on the walls. The whole project started out as perhaps the world’s largest man cave for local steel businessman Toby Shine. He also owns Okoboji Classic Cars, a restoration shop that shares the building with the muraled display. After he hired Rees to design and paint the interior, he had to open it up to the public by popular demand (there’s a $10/person fee, redeemable as a credit at the gift shop). Now is a great time to see it. After more than two years of painting — all by hand, with a brush — the 28,000-square-foot mural is nearly finished, but the rest of the world hasn’t discovered it yet.

PHOTO BY CHRISTOPHER GANNON—IOWA STATE UNIVERSITY

When Tillage Begins, Other Arts Will Follow: Engineering Panels, 1934 Designed by Grant Wood (American, 1885–1942) Iowa State University Library Lobby (Corner Osborn Drive and Morrill Road), Ames

STREAMLINED PARADISE Most of Grant Wood’s work, according to the Iowa State University Museums, depicts “a streamlined rural paradise.” But the one above, in the lobby of the Iowa State University Library, depicts the engineering disciplines taught at the university at the time. These flank a giant dynamo symbolic of mechanical engineering and machine-age energy. Wood used the same clean, idealized style here as he did in his murals of rural subjects — along with a meticulous attention to detail. He had the university faculty ensure the chemical experiment on the bottom left panel was rendered accurately. And the blueprint on the bottom right was copied from an actual bridge plan.

Wood first rendered his mural subjects in preliminary sketches, then in color drawings. WPA-employed artists under his direction then took the process from there. (Wood selected them from those who had exhibited at the Iowa State Fair.) They enlarged the drawings onto brown wrapping paper, then traced the drawings’ lines with a spiked wheel, forming a stencil. The lines were transferred to stretched canvas panels by dusting the paper with a fine powder that fell through the holes made by the wheel and marked the canvas below. The canvases were painted with oils, then mounted. This mural has been cleaned twice over the years, is in excellent condition, and is well worth a visit.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

PHOTO BY ZAK NEUMANN

UNIQUE VIEWPOINT Iowa City is perhaps Iowa’s most literary destination. You’d expect a place steeped in symbolism and metaphor to serve up something a bit abstract, and you’d be right. Artist Brock Muench grew up in State Center, graduated from the University of Iowa with an art degree, and is an avid gardener. His mural of a gardener picking tomatoes in a classic Iowa landscape, above, gets a radical twist with a top-down, 360-degree perspective that emphasizes “the interconnectedness of everything,” he says. Influenced by artist M. C. Escher’s play with perspectives — and also by Grant Wood’s simplified, stylized landscapes — Muench came up with an appropriate backdrop for a location that hosts a twice-weekly farmers’ market. After scraping off graffiti (he had some help from firefighters who blasted the wall clean with a firehose), he projected the image on the wall, then executed it with acrylic spray paint. “There was a lot of masking involved,” says Muench, who used paint markers to sharpen the details. Anne Ullerich’s mural, right, draws its influences from literature, creating a surreal-yet-familiar landscape that refers to a collage of classics. After consulting with the city’s literary community, she

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incorporated references to Aesop’s Fables, Alice in Wonderland, Treasure Island, the stories of Dr. Seuss, the Harry Potter books, The Wizard of Oz, and Don Quixote. Can you find them in the panel we photographed? Other panels of the mural feature even more literary allusions. Both murals are a part of an Iowa City public art project designed to help celebrate and enhance the character of individual neighborhoods. In the past the city had focused on sculpture but turned to murals as a way to stretch a shrinking budget. Muench is grateful for that. “There are so many blank walls,” he says. “Murals are the way to go.”

Whole Brock Muench, left, College Street Bridge at the Chauncey Swan Parking Ramp, Iowa City

Untitled Anne Ullerich, opposite bottom, Corner of Dubuque Street and Iowa Avenue, Iowa City

Power City U.S.A, above, The Walldogs Estes Park, 5th and Main, Keokuk

WALLDOGS RETURN You can see them in many Iowa cities and towns — the ghosts of artfully hand-painted advertisements still clinging to the walls of old buildings. Many of the paintings are more than a century old, but their bold style and nostalgic subjects often make them treasured landmarks. The artists who painted them were called “walldogs” because these often-itinerant painters worked like dogs in the hot sun. In 1993 artist and graphic designer Nancy Bennett, then of Allerton, admired these signs and decided to revive the art and craft of vintage-style, hand-painted wall art. She organized a meet of like-minded artists from all over the world. They converge on towns interested in their art, get

input from residents, and leave murals behind. The group has since painted more than 300 murals, mostly in the Midwest. Power City U.S.A., above, was painted during five days in June, 2013, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the construction of the Keokuk hydropower dam, then the largest in the world. The 10×36-foot image was rendered on specially prepared aluminum panels by visiting artists from four states. The panels were then assembled and affixed to the wall of a building bordering Estes Park on Main Street in downtown Keokuk. The mural was funded by an anonymous donor who wanted to celebrate the city’s greatest engineering achievement.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

City of Murals, top, Curt Nelson Downtown Rock Rapids Homecoming, above bottom, Mathew Sharum Downtown Rock Rapids

MURAL CITY “We have walls that are waiting to tell a story — if we are willing to do the work.” With that challenge, business owner Sandy Wynia founded Rock Rapids Mural Society in 2002. Since then artists from as far away as Michigan have competed to paint a total of 28 murals there, funded by society memberships and donations. Wynia was inspired to paint the town after visiting Toppenish, Washington. That place — about the same size as Rock Rapids, population 4,000 — put itself on the map with murals that depict area history. As Wynia watched her town shrink as people and businesses moved away, she

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realized that Rock Rapids’ shuttered second-story windows and newly blank walls downtown offered the chance to re-create the town’s salad days in images and explanatory placards. The murals in turn draw new attention and life. City of Murals, top, is a cross between a mural and a billboard that welcomes travelers to town. Artist Curt Nelson painted himself painting the mural. The rendering is so realistic you’re tempted to avoid walking under it for fear of getting paint-splattered. Mathew Sharum’s Homecoming, above bottom, depicts the Rock Rapids depot as it might have looked when servicemen returned from World War I.

PHOTO COURTESY TODD SPAUR

Welcome to Bussey, Todd Spaur Downtown Bussey

BIG THANKS The impetus for most murals starts with a group of people who want to beautify their town and hire an artist. This one started with an artist who wanted to thank a bunch of beautiful people. Single father Todd Spaur was already a sign designer and painter in 1994 when a near-fatal accident left him trapped in an overturned car, hidden by underbrush, for 16 hours with a broken neck and back and a crushed face. He could only move one toe. No one expected him to walk again. But the people of Bussey helped him defy all odds by helping him raise his three children and donating money to get him back on his feet. It took 16 years, but he can now walk. He used some of the donated money to take art classes, and he wanted to pay the town back for everything it had

done for him. He decided to paint a mural showing the town celebrating the Fourth of July, above. Spaur has five metal plates in his back, crushed vertebrae, and moves painfully with a cane. It took him 14 weeks to paint the body of the mural and 10 months to finish every detail. He unapologetically painted the town and its people â&#x20AC;&#x153;as they would like to beâ&#x20AC;? in saturated colors under a sapphire sky. A Bussey veteran who never made it home from World War II leads the parade. Spaur hoped travelers might stop to see the mural and buy gas or shop in local businesses, bringing some additional income to the tiny town. They have. So has the Today show, which put Bussey in the national spotlight when it featured the mural on July 3, 2012. But the people of Bussey say the real value of a loving portrait by a native son is incalculable.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

PEOPLE’S ART Eclipse, right, shares an idealized, streamlined style and commonplace subjects with Grant Wood’s work. But artist David Loewenstein adds a contemporary, abstract, allegorical approach and rich, saturated colors. The result is both arresting and open to interpretation. The mural covers the exterior wall of an old warehouse near the railroad crossing around which Grinnell grew. It was a project of the Grinnell Area Arts Council in 2000 and a reunion of sorts for Loewenstein, who had graduated from Grinnell College 12 years earlier. His goal was to create an image that represented the town. Loewenstein worked with high school, alternative high school, and college students and collected stories from townspeople. Then, he says, “we drew, we talked, and it was my job to translate those notions about what Grinnell was into a design that everybody felt good about.” He calls his work community-based art and says the inclusive process is as important as the resulting mural. In Eclipse, townspeople on the left each “bring something to the table” that is the community; on the right are images of the rural landscape surrounding Grinnell. In the center, tracks cross and trains seem to move through one another — “a way of saying these things can be in the same place at the same time without clashing,” Loewenstein says. An allegorical figure floats above, facilitating community. Below, a frieze represents several of the town’s architectural motifs. The mural has been very well received, even though interpretations about what it represents differ. That’s as it should be, says the artist.

Welcome to Newton, above, Carl Homstad Downtown Newton Newton Print Shop, right, Carl Homstad Downtown Newton

iowan.com

Eclipse, left, David Loewenstein Grinnell Railroad Express Building, Corner of Park and Third, Grinnell

NEWTON RENEWED In 2003, Newton called on Decorah muralist Carl Homstad to enliven several downtown buildings. In the following years, he painted six murals there. Rita Baker, a member of the Renew Newton committee that hired Homstad, says the murals have done just what the committee hoped: “New people want to live here,” she says. “They see that we care about our community.” Homstad took his cue from the town’s history. In Newton Print Shop, left, he visually knocked down the wall of the town’s former newspaper office, allowing viewers to peer into the past as compositors readied the presses for the next edition. In Welcome to Newton, opposite, he turned flat brick walls into the facades of small businesses. As a realist, Homstad is an anachronism in the art world — “born 100 years too late,” he says wryly. But that has served him well as a muralist: A century-old view is often exactly what Iowa’s towns are looking for. He often works from historic photos but feels free to take artistic license. “Although my pictures are based on certain times and places,” he says, “they exist only in my mind.” And on bricks and mortar as well. Dan Weeks is editor of The Iowan.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

College Hill Arts Festival

EXPERIENCE

37th Annual

Cedar Falls, Iowa | West 23rd and College

SHOP!

June 19-20, 2015

Small town atmosphere with big city selection and savings!

Friday Noon - 8 pm and Saturday 10 am - 5 pm

OUTDOOR EXCITEMENT!

• 33 mile paved trail • Swan Lake State Park • Fishing and camping • Aquatic center with speed slides

EXPERIENCE!

Delicious cuisine and local wine tasting! Check our website for

www.collegehillartsfestival.com

Events & Businesses! Carroll Chamber of Commerce 712-792-4383 www.carrolliowa.com

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75 Juried Artists | Music | Kid’s Activities Free Admission | Free Parking

3/17/14 11:24 AM

YOU’RE INVITED to the second annual International Festival at Heritage Park! It’s a celebration of global heritage, food, music, dance, art and games for all ages. Our family-friendly festival will include a parade, educational demonstrations and lots of hands-on fun! Many of Heritage Park’s historical buildings will be open for tours.

FREE ADMISSION! Forest City, Iowa June 27–28, 2015

heritageparkofnorthiowa.com/events/international-festival

iowan.com

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3/16/15 10:38 AM

Visit Tassel Ridge Winery ®

and Vineyards

Enjoy a day in the Wine Country in Iowa!

AND

Tour the Winery and discover Iowa wine making

.COM

Taste a wide range of award-winning wines

SAVOR UNEXPECTED FLAVORS

Shop for wine-related items, local cheese, and more….

Visit www.tasselridge.com for a schedule of events 1681 220th St • Leighton, IA 50143 641.672.WINE (9463) Open 7 days a week year round M–F, 9–6; Sat, 10–6; Sun, Noon–6 Tassel Ridge Winery … Simply Extraordinary® Firetrucker Brewery Ad.pdf

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3/24/15

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Complimentary Wine Tasting & Tours Wednesday Wood-Fired Pizza Specials Friday Live Music Sunday Celebration Brunch Swisher, IA (319)857-4300 | crwine.com

Delicious wine, knowledgeable and friendly staff, splendid views and fun times await you at Fireside Winery. Close to Amana Colonies, Interstate 80 and Tanger Outlet Center, Williamsburg. 1755 P Ave Marengo, IA 52301 319-662-4222 firesidewinery.com

American Wild Ales and BBQ OPEN Fri–Sun 3–8pm and by appt. 116 Broadway St. Carson, IA 515-450-2981

IOWAWINEANDBEER.COM

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Located in the Southern hills of Guttenberg on the Great River Road. Taste the award-winning wines, enjoy a delicious pizza, browse our boutiques and listen to live music in the courtyard.

39053 Great River Road Guttenberg, IA 563-252-2665 www.promiselandwinery.com

PromiseLandWinery_MJIowan_2015.indd 1 3/17/15 12:58 PM 3/23/15 11:27 AM SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

3:17

Empty Nest Winery

PROUD TO BE IOWAN.

Enjoy our fine beers at the taproom in Knoxville or look for them at you favorite store or restaurant. 641-842-2739

Join us this summer for Music at the Winery. See our web site for a complete schedule of events.

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Proud to be the oldest operating winery in the state of Iowa. Ackerman Winery is nationally recognized for their outstanding fruit wines. Stop by for a sample. Located in the heart of the Amana Colonies. 4406 220th Trail Amana, IA 52203 319-622-3379 ackermanwinery.com

Wide River

Winery

www.emptynestwinery.com

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OPEN: Friday 5:30-8:30 pm Saturday 1:00-6:00 pm 259 Broadway Springville, IA (319) 854-6789

www.dejavine.com 3/6/15 2:44 PM

Soldier Creek Winery

Good Times,

Great Wines

Award-winning Wines from Iowa’s Prairie

Tastings | Vineyards | Tours | Events

Visit tasting rooms in both Clinton and Le Claire. Try our award-winning wines that we make from the goodness of the earth. We hope to see you soon!

1584 Paragon Ave. Fort Dodge, IA 515-216-0987 www.soldiercreekwinery.com

Clinton: 563-519-9463 Le Claire: 563-289-2509

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3/12/15 12:03 PM

We produces grape wines from locally grown cold hardy varieties in Iowa. Offering both sweet & dry selections, our wines pair nicely with meats, cheeses, desserts, & friends.

Brush Creek Winery

46 IOWAWINEANDBEER.COM iowan.com

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AWARD WINNING WINES

open: Wed–Fri 10am–6pm Saturday 1pm–4pm closed: Sunday, Monday & Tuesday www.brushcreekwinery.com

Burlington, IA 319-753-5234 www.lindonwines.com

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We are committed to producing quality Iowa wines made from grapes and fruit grown exclusively in Linn and Jones Counties.

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We use locally grown berries & ferment whole fruit for the best tasting “TRUE TO THE FRUIT” unfiltered wines! Come and taste the difference! Sat: 10–5 pm / Sun: 1–5 pm

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1352 Apple Rd Waukon, IA (563) 568-2758

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Wed & Thurs: 3–9pm Fri: 3–10pm, Sat: 1–10pm CLOSED Sun–Tues 17 North Vine Street Glenwood, Iowa 51534 (712) 525-WINE (9463)

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CANTINA, WINERY AND GUEST SUITES Seasonal menu, Iowa made Wine & Craft Beer 119 North Washington St. Edgewood, Iowa 563-928-6908

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PLUM CREEK WINERY OPEN: Wed-Sun: 11-6 Come try one of our 9 delicious Iowa-grown wines! 2306 160th Ave. Algona, IA 50511 515-295-7954

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Vineyard & Winery, LLC Visit www.ardoncreek.com to learn about our wines, upcoming events and tasting room hours. 15 miles SW of Muscatine on X43 2391 Independence Ave. Letts, Iowa (563) 506-8044

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EXCITING THINGS ARE HAPPENING HERE! Explore beautiful Pilot Knob State Park. Tee off for a round of golf. Kayak the Winnebago River. See how motor homes are made at Winnebago Industries. Check out great summer events like Puckerbrush Days, International Fest, and Winnebago Outdoors Adventure Race.

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This book looks at the 13 year span of time known popularly as “Prohibition” through the lens of Eastern Iowa townspeople and others. From the farmers who grew the corn used in making illegal liquor, to the bootleggers who trafficked it and the gangsters who sold it, Eastern Iowa saw its fair share! Read excerpts of interviews with regular people who were swept up in the craziness, and about gun battles on two lane highways. Even if you know something about Prohibition, you will be surprised to read how this period in our national history transpired in, and impacted, Iowa.

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May/June 2015

3/6/15 1:25 PM

THE IOWAN

iowan.com

Craƒt Beer is Here! What to look for in a great craft brew — and where to find one at breweries, tap houses, and beer festivals around the state.

by J. WILSON

here’s never been a better time to be a beer lover in Iowa. And it’s not just that you can find great local brew in the Hawkeye State now. These days you have a choice among dozens of world-class Iowa beers. The number of breweries in Iowa has more than doubled since 2010. Today nearly 60 Iowa breweries produce some 90 styles of beer. Leading the charge: Iowa’s senior brewery, Amana’s Millstream Brewing Company (millstreambrewing.com), which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Millstream’s flagship beer, Schild Brau Amber Lager, has quietly won 17 gold, silver, and bronze medals in some of the most prestigious national and international competitions. Several other Millstream brews have also garnered accolades. Iowa’s younger breweries are coming on strong, too. In recent competitions, Knoxville’s Peace Tree Brewing Company (peacetreebrewing.com) won a gold medal in the World Beer Cup with its Blonde Fatale. West Okoboji’s West O Beer (westobeer.com) CocO Chocolate Stout and a beer from Lion Bridge Brewing Company (lionbridgebrewing.com) of Cedar

Rapids, Workman’s Compensation Dark Mild Ale, each took gold medals at the Great American Beer Festival. But variety and bigger flavors are not exactly new.

Nearly 60 Iowa breweries produce some 90 styles of beer. Before the light, mass-produced beverage that dominated the market for decades following the repeal of Prohibition, beer was packed with flavor and tradition. European immigrants brought their brewing skills to the United States to start small local breweries, each reflecting the respective traditions of its British, Irish, and German origins. A revival of these so-called “microbreweries” began in the late 1970s. Today the India pale ales (IPA), stouts, and bocks of yesteryear are once again easy to find in Iowa. If you haven’t experienced these beers, you owe it to yourself to try some. Craft beers bring a world of taste to a previously generic beverage.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

Lion Bridge Brewing Company owner/brewmaster Quinton McClain, left, offers a glass of his Workman’s Compensation Dark Mild Ale. It won a gold medal at the prestigious Great American Beer Festival. Beer festivals, above, are convivial events, so bring someone and share a glass. That way, you’ll get to compare impressions — and taste twice as many beers.

WHERE TO START

Here are a few questions to narrow your choices: Do you like coffee? Dark beers such as stouts and porters might be right up your alley. With notes of coffee and chocolate, this cluster of beer styles is perfect for the latte lover. West O’s CocO Stout, Millstream’s Back Road Oatmeal Stout, and a New American Brewing Company (newamericanbeer.com) 1789 Porter from Ankeny are three Iowa examples. Prefer tart flavors? You may enjoy Berliner Weisse, a light, refreshing German wheat beer. Clive’s 515 Brewing Company (515brewing.com), Solon’s Big Grove Brewery (biggrovebrewery.com), and Des Moines’ Exile Brewing Company (exilebrewing.com) among others have all produced excellent renditions. Carson’s CIB Brewery (cibbrewery.com) harvests a local wild yeast for a distinct lineup of sour beers. Are you a fan of barbecue? West O’s Smoked Red, Coralville’s Backpocket Brewing Company (backpocketbrewing.com) Wooden Nickel Peated Lager, and Ankeny’s Firetrucker Brewery (firetrucker.com) Grizzly Stout all deftly feature smoky hints reminiscent of a summertime campfire. Love grapefruit? Sample some IPAs. Heavily dosed with citrusy hops for added bitterness and aroma, IPA is currently the top-selling craft beer style nationwide.

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Decorah’s Toppling Goliath Brewing Company (tgbrews.com), 515, Big Grove, and Des Moines’ Confluence Brewing Company (confluencebrewing.com) all produce fine Iowa IPAs. Do you enjoy spirits? Brewers have started aging their products in whiskey, wine, and other barrels, producing beers with increased complexity. Keg Creek Brewing Company (kegcreekbrewing.com) of Glenwood’s Second Thought Saison, Boone Valley Brewing Company’s (boonevalleybrewing.com) Barrel Aged Imperial Roxie from Boone, and Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery’s (rockbottom.com) Impious Porter from West Des Moines are wonderful examples of what a barrel can contribute to three beer styles.

Craft beers bring a world of taste to a previously generic beverage. Like something clean and refreshing? Many equate lagers with mass-produced light beers, but lagers can be easy-drinking and flavor-packed. Iowa is a lager stronghold: Millstream’s Schild Brau, Exile’s Ruthie Golden Lager, Confluence’s Oktoberfest, and Backpocket’s Slingshot Dunkel are all well worth tasting.

FESTIVAL TIPS To get the most out of a beer festival:

LINE UP A DESIGNATED DRIVER or have cash for a cab. Safety first!

EAT HEARTY. Start with a big breakfast so you have something in your stomach when the beer starts to flow. And hydrate — you can’t drink too much water.

LAY OFF HOT PIZZA AND COFFEE. You can’t taste the brews with a burned tongue.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS. Check the weather and bring a rain jacket or sunscreen if necessary. Choose comfortable shoes. Don’t forget your ID. (Without it, you morph into the designated driver.)

CONSULT THE PROGRAM. There’s not enough time to drink all the beers on offer, so check the map of booths to hit the beers you most want to taste first and to identify locations for food and bathroom breaks.

SHARE. Go with someone you don’t mind sharing a glass with. Order different beers, then share to cut your Adventurous imbibers explore the art, science, and history of beer — not to mention its many tastes — at the Iowa Craft Brew Festival in Des Moines. The event will take place on June 20 this year.

line-standing time in half.

DUMP WHAT YOU DON’T LIKE. Why waste your sobriety on a beer that doesn’t trip your trigger?

RINSE YOUR GLASS BETWEEN DRINKS so your next beer doesn’t taste like your last. Rinse your

Are you a foodie? You’ll fit right into the craft beer crowd. Brewers today are constantly pushing the envelope with beer flavors and aromas. In addition to the four basic ingredients (water, barley, hops, and yeast), brewers craft beers using chocolate, spices, pumpkin, rhubarb, blueberries, and much more. The possible beer profiles are limited only by the brewer’s imagination and may just inspire you to take up homebrewing. (Iowa has more than two dozen homebrew clubs to nurture your talent.)

IOWA’S WORLD-CLASS BEERS

Here's where to find them: In a local tap house. Iowa boasts a number of stellar tap houses. With over a hundred different beers on tap and hundreds more available in bottles, Des Moines’ El Bait Shop (elbaitshop.com) was named to DRAFT Magazine’s list of America’s 100 best beer bars for the eighth year in a row earlier this year. A beer lover’s paradise with a tacklebox-run-amok decor, El Bait Shop is a must-visit for any serious beer drinker. Offering wide selections of top-notch beers from Iowa and beyond, other notable beer bars around the state include Coralville’s 30hop (30hop.com), Oskaloosa’s Cellar Peanut Pub (thecellarpeanutpub.com), Cedar Rapids’ Bricks Bar & Grill (brickscedarrapids.com), and North Liberty’s Red’s Alehouse (redsalehouse.com).

palate for the same reason — and to keep hydrated. Bring a water bottle you can refill at rinse stations or water fountains.

TRY NEW STUFF. You can always order something you already know you like later — now’s the time to explore.

TAKE NOTES in your program to guide your next trip to the beer aisle. My wife and I use stars or smiley faces — they get the point across just fine.

ASK QUESTIONS. Especially if the pourers are wearing badges that tell you they’re from the brewery, this is a great way to learn more. Also, a “You have anything special back there?” might unearth a secret nugget you wouldn’t experience otherwise.

PACE YOURSELF. Fifty one-ounce samples works out to a little more than four beers, but if you tuck into the barley wines, quads, and impy stouts, the alcohol content will sneak up on you. Be careful.

TAKE A BREAK. Rest. Eat. Drink water. Enjoy the band. You’ll be rejuvenated on the spot, and tomorrow will be even smoother.

CONSIDER THE EXTRAS. Some festivals have special seminars, tastings, or cask tents that you can access for a few extra dollars. Do it. You won’t be disappointed.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

Beer festivals are a great place to raise a glass, left, to toast the history of one of the world’s oldest beverages. If you’ve not sampled the tremendous variety of Iowa’s craft beers, you owe it to yourself to do so. The Iowa Brewers Guild’s annual Iowa Craft Brew Festival in Des Moines, above, draws thousands of beer drinkers and was named Outstanding Event at the 2014 Iowa Tourism Conference.

At a beer festival. There, you can pay a fee (usually about $35) to sample small quantities of many different beers in a three- to four-hour session and often meet the brewers. “People love to explore new options,” says Peace Tree owner Megan McKay, “and festivals allow them to sample and find beers they enjoy before buying an entire six-pack.” Des Moines hosts The Iowa Brewers Guild’s annual Iowa Craft Brew Festival (iowabeer.org/iowa-craft-brew-festival) June 20, Cityview Brewfest (brewfest.dmcityview.com) in July, and Little Giant Beer Summit (featuring Iowa beers exclusively) in September. Eastern Iowa offers the Festival of Iowa Beers (millstreambrewing.com) September 6 in Amana, Iowa City’s Northside Oktoberfest (downtowniowacity.com/pages/ events/northside-oktoberfest.php) October 3, Coralville’s BrrrFest (coralville.org/index.aspx?nid=604) in January, and Dubuque On Ice Brewfest (dubuquebrewfest.com) February 21. Northern Iowa has the Algona Beer Fest June 13 (algonabeerfest.com). And Western Iowans are in easy reach of the Omaha Beer Fest (omahabeerfest.com) June 5 and 6. Many more beer festivals take place all around the state. During a libation vacation. Beer tourism is “a thing,” and beer lovers plan vacations around beer destinations. In

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2014 I wrote Iowa Pints to help my beer-loving comrades in their quest to sample all the tasty brews our state has to offer. “I am amazed at the number of visitors who seek out our brewery as a part of their travel, either for a day trip or as part of an extended brewery visit trip,” says McKay. “More and more people are using breweries as a destination, then learning about the local area from there.” I like to mix visits to breweries with stops at tap houses. At breweries, you can soak up the culture of the beer and the personality of the brewers; taps provide a diverse menu of offerings from several different breweries. As at beer festivals (see “Festival Tips,” page 51), a designated driver and consuming plenty of food and water along the way are essential to such tours. Food is available at some, but not all, breweries, so check ahead. Another growing segment of beer tourists: cyclists. They can enjoy multiple breweries within only a few miles from one another in Des Moines, courtesy of the area’s trail system. And RAGBRAI has an ever-improving beer scene along that ride’s route. The Iowa Craft Beer Tent (iowacraftbeertent.com) at the Iowa State Fair also allows you to "wet your palate" with a showcase of Iowa suds.

Writer J. Wilson has traveled and tasted widely, and encourages others to do the same. “If you've never had a craft beer,” he says, “You don’t know what you’re missing.”

Taking place this year June 14–20, Des Moines Beer Week (facebook.com/ DesMoinesBeerWeek) is a series of beer-related events at a number of bars, restaurants, and breweries. The events range from book signings and beer tastings to beer pairing dinners and the week’s finale, the Iowa Craft Brew Festival on the Court Avenue Bridge. Individually crafted beers have been at the center of sociable gatherings for centuries. Now it’s easier than ever in Iowa to find one that you like and share it with a friend. J. Wilson is an award-winning homebrewer, certified beer judge, Wynkoop Brewing Company’s 2012 Beer Drinker of the Year, and Minister of Iowa Beer at Iowa Brewers Guild. He blogs about beer at brewvana.net and lives in rural Adams County.

MORE BEER! Writer J. Wilson is also the author of Diary of a Part-Time Monk, a book documenting the history of doppelbock-style beer — including an account of how he fasted on nothing but beer and water for Lent one year — and Iowa Pints, A Guide to Iowa Breweries. If you’re inspired to take a “libation vacation,” you’ll want to bring the latter with you. It documents the stories, offerings, and people behind 55 Iowa breweries. It also features an equal number of bars, restaurants, and tap houses known for their great beer selections, plus 25 homebrew clubs where you can find beermaking advice and camaraderie. Both books are available from Amazon.com.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

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3/10/15 12:13 PM

Welcome to Onawa, Iowa 2015 Calendar of Events Big Blue Run Crazy Days and Garage Sale Loess Hills Prairie Seminar Art in the Park Graffiti Night Monona County Fair Swap Meet 23rd Annual Onabike Poinsettia Ball

June 6 June 12 & 13 May 29–31 June 13 June 20 July 14–19 August 16 August 22 December

Onawa is the gateway to Loess Hills and just 30 miles south of Sioux City. Come visit us and cruise down the widest main street in the USA!

Home of the Eskimo Pie!

For more information call 712.423.1801 or email chamber@onawa.com

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May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

iowacelebrates

Iowa’s Seagoing Cowboys In 1946 altruism and adventure lured two Iowa farm boys to sea. They helped launch a relief organization that’s just completed its 70th year. by STEVE DINNEN

“The little kids, they’d beg for anything we’d give them,” remembers Howard Lord after landing in Greece following World War II. “Starvation was everywhere.” Lord was there to help. The 22-year-old from a farm near Grinnell was one of 7,000 “seagoing cowboys” whose job it was to deliver horses and other livestock to some of the world’s places hardest hit by the ravages of World War II.

A new model for hunger relief He’d heard that a then-new humanitarian organization, Heifer International, was looking for men to handle, care for, and feed the animals as they made long sea voyages — mostly on hastily converted World War II Liberty- and Victory-class freighters. Heifer supplied the livestock and the cowboys; the United Nations supplied the ships. Heifer International (see “For More Information,” page 58) was different from other relief organizations. Rather than hand out food, it distributed animals that could be used as breed stock to rebuild a region’s agricultural capacity. It was a radical PHOTO COURTESY DWIGHT FARRINGER AND RICHARD REISTE

idea that’s since proven highly effective. Like many of his fellows, Lord was lured by the chance to travel, to help his fellow man — and to earn $150 for the four- to six-week trip. He asked his fiancée, Wilma, for permission to travel to Greece. “She said if I got home in time for the wedding, I could go,” he says. Lord and Charles Howell, a pal and fellow Grinnell farmer, hitchhiked to Newport News, Virginia, to join 28 other cowboys and a load of cattle and sheep bound for Greece. Other cowboys wrangled horses, goats, even baby chicks. Many of the men were from traditionally pacifist faith communities such as the Brethren, Friends (Quakers), and Mennonites who joined to serve mankind and to fulfill conscientious objector service obligations. Some, like Lord, were farm boys. Others were college students studying medicine, journalism — even symphony composing.

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These cattle are waiting to be loaded onto a freighter bound for war-torn lands. In spite of crowded conditions and rough seas, few were lost en route.

A cowboy wrangles a heifer below decks. The stench in unventilated ships’ holds could be almost unbearable.

seas incapacitated cowhands with violent seasickness. The crowded animals bit and kicked; horses went down in their stalls and had to be coaxed up. Mares gave birth at sea. Yet the animals had to be fed 1,400 pounds of oats and four tons of hay daily, all hoisted by manpower from the ship’s hold. Manure was pitched over the side the

same way, and the stalls were washed with saltwater every two days. The duty was often rough and the hardened seamen could be even rougher. (“The crew members are drunk as bats today,” wrote one cowboy in his journal.) It made life on a central Iowa farm look like 160 acres of tranquil paradise. On Lord’s ship, the sheep needed shearing, and the foreman asked Lord to handle it. Despite his protest that he had merely watched a sheep being shorn, “they handed me a pair of hand shears” and into an animal’s pen he plunged. On many outbound ships there was little time for reflection. “Working like dopes,” scrawled Kenneth Heatwole, another cowboy, in his 1946 transatlantic journal.

“May God help them” All that changed when they neared port. Many ships had to pick their way through live minefields and the wreckages of half-sunken ships to reach ports that had been devastated by war. There many saw firsthand entire cities leveled, Jewish ghettos obliterated, concentration camps only recently liberated — and survivors in countries on both sides of the conflict living in rags, begging for food, shell-shocked, wounded, disoriented, and still starving and dying. It changed many of the cowboys for life. “Never have I learned as much in one day nor have my sympathies been so aroused toward my fellow human beings,” wrote Heatwole. Another Iowan, 17-year-old Richard Reiste, was tending crops, pigs, and cows on his family’s 160-acre Dallas County farm when he heard through the Church of the Brethren — he was a member of its church south of Perry — about a shipment of horses to Romania. Farmers there had killed their workhorses during the war to feed themselves and now needed replacements if they were ever to plow their fields again. “I’d never been out of Iowa,” Reiste says. “I thought that’d be a great chance.” In the summer of 1946, Reiste went to New Orleans and boarded the SS Lindenwood Victory. Thirty cowboys on board tended livestock as they steamed to Trieste, Italy, where they would be off-loaded for Romania.

“These poor Polish people. May God help them.” Later he added, “Oh, if I could only have given them all they wanted or have clothed them or even washed their dirty faces. I wish every Christian in America could see — may God forgive our negligence!” It was the same on the other side of the world. Traveling in a ship that carried milk goats to Yokohama, Japan, cowboy Robert Leach passed through cities where the entire population had vanished — “suffocated, cremated, boiled, or drowned” by American firebombing. Many cowboys gave whatever food they had to those they could. Some even smuggled war orphans back on their ships with them. There were no duties for the cowboys on return voyages, and many used the time to reflect on what they’d seen. They

“Working like dopes”

discussed religious, political, and social justice topics with

The voyages were eye-opening experiences. One of Heifer’s

one another. Some rode back on ships with American soldiers

ships carried 335 mares confined on lower decks and was

fresh from battle.

25 days at sea. The animals’ stalls reeked of manure; 20-foot

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

iowacelebrates

These seagoing cowboys pose on the fantail of the freighter SS Mount Whitney. After delivering horses to Poland, the vessel was frozen in place in the Baltic Sea, prolonging the trip by seven weeks.

“We were not sure what their attitude would be toward us men who didn’t go to war,” wrote one cowboy and

FOR MORE INFORMATION

conscientious objector, Herbert C. Wenger. “However, we soon

HEIFER INTERNATIONAL, heifer.org, works in dozens

learned that they respected our position. . . . They were so tired

of countries to eradicate hunger and poverty. It supplies

of the war and experienced so much death and destruction

animals — from chickens and rabbits to llamas and

that our position seemed to make sense to them.”

water buffaloes — to families and educates them about

Reiste made it back to Iowa in time to begin his senior

sustaining and nurturing their livestock and spreading

year in high school. He was not land-bound for long; he and

that wisdom in their communities. It no longer ships

seven other area men were recruited at year-end for a voyage

animals overseas. Spokeswoman Allison Stephens says

to China.

it prefers to buy livestock locally, thereby putting its

Never the same Some 146 Iowans joined Reiste and Lord as seagoing cowboys in 1946 and 1947 alone. Neither man sailed again. But their impressions have lasted a lifetime. “Anybody that travels just has a different outlook on life,” says Reiste. “I don’t think any of us were ever the same,” says Lord. Four of his cowboy shipmates became ministers — five when you count Lord. He served for 38 years as a United Methodist Church minister.

money to use in a host country and on animals that are best suited for the local climate.

SEAGOING COWBOYS, seagoingcowboys.com, is a website with stories and photographs, video programming, and other resources about Heifer International’s seagoing cowboys (including those of Kenneth Heatwole, Robert Leach, and Herbert C. Wenger) compiled by historian Peggy Reiff Miller. She is also working on a book about the history of Heifer’s seagoing humanitarian pioneers.

Decades later both men — now retired — remain strong supporters of Heifer International, which turned 70 years old in 2014. They are regulars at Heifer International’s information booth at the Iowa State Fair. There they can recount one of the great, unsung humanitarian efforts that was born of war and continues to help those in need.

iowan.com

Steve Dinnen is a Des Moines-based freelance writer.

C TORI SIT IS

re happen he s g in h t n fu

CULTURAL CENTER

www.brucemore.org Cedar Rapids, IA

Learn how Hoover set aside his lucrative mining career to save millions from starvation at the onset of World War I at the largest temporary exhibit to come to the Hoover Presidential Library-Museum.

Learn how Hoover imported supplies at the scale replica relief ship.

HERBERT HOOVER AND WORLD WAR l

The sensor-activated WWI trench brings history to life.

HERBERT HOOVER

PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY-MUSEUM I-80 exit 254 | West Branch, IA 52358 Open Daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. | Exhibit runs April - October For more information on all five exhibits visit HooverCookie.com

SpecialMuseum Advertising Section Iowa Association

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The Dollies

Kinney Pioneer Museum

This unique display is now open near the 1905 Study Hall. Anatomically correct, these 81 hand-carved “Dollies,” also known as the “Firewood Floozies,” are 5/8ths human size and complete with handmade clothing, jewelry, and furniture. The artist, Robert Smith, farmed near Battle Creek and created the collection over 20 years. Visit one of the Midwest’s largest county heritage museums to see these treasures and more!

Join us for: Pork BBQ—May 3, Vintage Car Day—June 7, Olde Fashion Ice Cream Social—July 12, Kids Day—August 16 Cider and Donut Day—September 27 Open Tues-Sun, 1–5 PM, May–September 7 miles West of Mason City on Iowa 122 1 mile east of I-35, Exit 194 641-423-1258

Plymouth County Historical Museum

335 First Avenue SW, LeMars, Iowa pchmuseum@gmail.com Visit the

Battle of Old Bradford Civil War Reenactment

”

Danish-American Landscape Architect

George M. Curtis Mansion

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3/11/15 10:13 AM

420 5th Ave S, Clinton, Iowa

May 16–17, 2015 9 AM–5 PM Home of the Clinton Lumber Industrialist Schedule a tour, event or meeting.

563.242.8556 Go to www.georgemcurtismansion.org for upcoming events & more information

Old Bradford Pioneer Village

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Museum & Gift Shop Open May 1–Oct 1, 2015 Hours: M–Sat 9–5 Sun 1–5

Garnavillo Museum Visit this Hidden Iowa Gem

Now Handicapped Accessible 2729 Cheyenne Ave. Nashua, IA 50658 641-435-2567

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OPEN: Memorial Day–Labor Day Saturdays and Sundays from 1–4pm

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Shelby County Historical Museum

Log Cabin Day Sunday June 7, 2015 10am–4pm

Enjoy historic music and lots of great food! Come see the Deen Loom and Nelson gas engine, both manufactured in Harlan. Come for the festival, stay and explore our Civil War reenactment camp, 1850s log cabins, horse-drawn farm equipment, military exhibits, presidential signatures, 19th century steam pumper fire engine, pioneer artifacts, Native American artifacts, and genealogy and research center.

1805 Morse Avenue Harlan, Iowa 51537 (712) 755-2437

Open M–F 8am–4pm free admission www.shelbycoiamuseum.org

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See the largest collection of National Bank Note issues on permanent exhibit in the U.S. Come see America’s commemorative paper money depicting: * Landing of Columbus * Embarkation of the Pilgrims * Signing of the Declaration of Independence * Other great events in our history

This ad paid for in part by the Iowa Tourism Office.

Historic demonstrations including soap and broom making, rope making, corn shellers, oats fanning mills and more.

National Balloon Museum

3/9/15 1:12 PM

COME SEE... WHERE IOWA BEGAN We offer arts and cultural amenities that inspire, enhance community pride, and strengthen arts appreciation and participation.

Hours: Tues-Sat 10-5 pm 825 Ave G, Fort Madison, IA 52627 319-372-3996

www.fmaaa.com

Upcoming Events

FREE ADMISSION

Community Movie Presentations

Open mid-May until mid-September

Central Park Fort Madison Starting Friday, May 29th @ Dusk

Tues. - Sun., 11 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.

Fort Madison City Band Concerts

• History of Ballooning in the U.S. from 1783 to present • Interactive displays • Participative quizzes • Family-oriented • • • •

Gift Shop Kid’s Corner Video Presentations Research Library

Central Park Fort Madison Sunday Evenings @ 7pm

Main Street Sip & Stroll June 5th 5pm–7pm

1-800-210-TOUR visitfortmadison.com

1601 Jefferson Way Indianola, IA 50125 515.961.3714 museum@NationalBalloonMuseum.com

www.NationalBalloonMuseum.com Special Advertising Section

FortMadison_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

3/17/15 11:26 AM

61 THE IOWANwww.IowaMuseums.org July/August 2011

Belle Plaine Area Museum & Henry B. Tippie Annex

Iowa’s Best Kept Secret

Come experience Belle Plaine’s history along the Lincoln Highway. Visit the Belle Plaine area museum and Henry B. Tippie Annex. 901 12th Street, Belle Plaine, IA 52208 319.434.6093 info@bpiowahistory.com www.bpiowahistory.com

715 D Ave, Kalona, IA 52247 319-656-2519 www.kalonaiowa.org

Now featuring Ford and New Holland

We are an innovative visual art museum dedicated to imagination and learning opportunities. 920 3rd Ave S Fort Dodge, Iowa 50501

www.blanden.org 515-573-2316

Blanden_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

2/26/15 10:18 AM Visit Heritage Square Park in Odebolt �

ODEBOLT CREEK DAYS

June 20, 2015 Listen to the story of J. Sterling Morton told by Darrel Draper and enjoy other activities throughout the day.

BIRTHPLACE & MUSEUM See it for10am–4:30pm yourself! See it for yourself! daily 216 S. 2nd Street, 216 S. 2nd Street,Winterset Winterset TOLL FREE: 877-462-1044 TOLL-FREE (877) 462-1044

www.johnwaynebirthplace.museum www.johnwaynebirthplace.museum

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2/20/15 9:29 AM

Open everyday 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Dyersville, IA • 1-877-475-2727 www.nationalfarmtoymuseum.com

in Coolest isCedar MuseumFalls! The

Find us at: www.iowaruralschoolsmuseum.net www.odebolt.net 712-668-2231

OdeboltMuseums_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

3/9/15 12:52 PM

121 Center St. May to mid-October

319-266-5149

cfhistory.org

Open 7 Days a Week Year-Round 641-842-6176

Plan your trip:

CedarFallsTourism.org

Calkins’ Square Amana Heritage Museum Exhibits in three 19th century communal buildings tell the story of the Amana Colonies National Historic Landmark. Introductory video. Museum Store.

319-622-3567 www.amanaheritage.org

Iowa Association 62 Museum Iowan.com

Step back in time with a trip to the home and authentic country doctor’s office of Dr. Martin Calkins, Wyoming’s first Mayor. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 104 E. Main St. • Wyoming, Iowa www.wyomingia.org/landmarks/calkins-square or contact the City of Wyoming 563-488-3970

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5/5/14 9:31 AM

Buffalo Bill Museum and River Pilot's Pier Exhibits on Buffalo Bill Cody, river history, regional history and the Lone Star, the last wooden hulled steamboat in the U.S. 199 N. Front St., LeClaire, IA open year round Mon–Sat 9am–5pm Sun Noon–5pm

buffalobillmuseumleclaire.com 563-289-5580

3/6/15 3:09 PM BuffaloBillMuseum_MAIowan_2015.indd 1 Advertising 1/29/15 11:13 AM SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION Special Section

Logo Usage

Full-Color Logos

Prairie Trails Museum The primary logo, with the tagline ”IOWA West Bend of Wayne County GOVERNOR’S RESIDENCE – NATIONAL

Historical Site

HISTORIC LANDMARK” stacked, should be used whenever possible for four-color printing and web application.

Come take a historical look back at the people, places and progress of the West Bend area. When the full-color logo is used on a Hours: 1:30–3:30pm dark background, no gray is Sat–Sun used. Memorial Day–Labor Day Instead, fonts and accents are white. or by appointment anytime

Highway 2 East, P.O. Box 104 Corydon, Iowa 50060 641-872-2211 | ptmuseum@grm.net

107 3rd St SE 515-200-9234

www.prairietrailsmuseum.org

TRAINS on the

FARM

Optional Logos When it is not possible to use the ERMAN WestBendHist_MJIowan_2014.indd 1 primary Terrace Hill logo, these five other versions of the logo are ERITAGE acceptable.

G H

TerraceHill_MJIowan_2015.indd AMERICAN 3/26/14 1:40 PM CENTER

We host family reunions!

Model & Toy Trains, Railroad Artifacts Museum, Children’s Toys, Ag Toys, Dioramas of the Civil War, Circus, Wild West & Disney

Join us for a time of fun, nostalgia, history “On The Farm” Tours lasting 2, 5 or 8 hrs are available — call for more information. 30215 170th Street Clarksville, IA 50619 319.278.4847 www.trainsonthefarm.com

2300 Grand Avenue Des Moines, Iowa 50312 515-281-7205 terracehilliowa.org

Group Tours Welcome! 712 W. 2nd Davenport, IA gahc.org • 563.322.8844

3/12/15 3:24 PM

Playing is learning! Family attraction for hands-on, active learning fun, inspires every child to imagine, create, discover, and explore though the power of play.

1451 Coral Ridge Avenue Coralville, IA 52241 319.625.6255 www.theicm.org

One-Color Logos Heartland Museum

Carrie Lane When printing in one color, a solid black Chapman Catt Home to 100’s of rare & antique tractors, 100’s of rare and antique Home to 100’s of rare & antique tractors, buggies, and wagons as well as Big Bud, logo with 30% black accents is used forGirlhood Home tractors & wagons buggies, and wagons well as Big Bud, the as world’s largest farm tractor. and Interpretive 1000’s of yesteryear’s backgrounds. For dark backgrounds, the world’s largesttreasures farmlight tractor. Center Wednesdays & Saturdays a solid white logo is used. to 100’s of rare & antique tractors, MemorialHome Weekend through buggies, and wagons as well as Big Bud, world’s largest farm1–4 tractor.pm Labor Daythe Weekend Key coordinator of the woman suffrage movement, Catt played a leading role in the successful campaign to win voting rights for women. Open Memorial Day–Labor Day, 10–4; Sunday 12–4; and by appointment.

1000’s of items vintage & unique items displayed 1000’s1000’s of vintage & unique displayed of vintage & unique items displayed in antique settings. Clarion, IA Highway 3W in antique settings. in antique settings.

The Present Preserving Past for the Future The Present Preserving the Past forfor the Future The Present Preserving the Past thethe Future 515-602-6000

Wednesdays & Saturdays Memorial Weekend Memorial through LaborWeekend Day Weekendthrough 1-4 p.m. Wednesdays & Saturdays Day Weekend 1-4 p.m. Wednesdays & Saturdays Memorial Weekend through Labor Day Weekend Labor 1-4 p.m. Tours by appointment. Tours by appointment. Tours by appointment.

www.heartlandmuseum.org

HUMBOLDT COUNTY3/12/15 HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION

HeartlandMuseum_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

2379 Timber Avenue Charles City, IA 50616 641.228.3336 www.catt.org

3:42 PM CarrieChapmanCatt_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

www.humboldtiowahistory.org

HumboldtCo_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

Special Advertising Section

3/12/15 11:01 AM

This 9-acre site, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, celebrates the role of the draft horse during the Golden Age of Iowa Agriculture. OPEN MAY TO NOVEMBER. Tue & Thur 1–4 pm and Sat 10–4 pm Located at the intersection of Hwy 1 & US 34 www.JeffersonCountyIowa.com/barns 641-919-8262

3/17/15 11:10 AM MaasdamBarns_MJIowan_2014.indd 1

• COWbOys, RanCh life, histORy Of RODeO • ameRiCan iNDian CultuRe anD aRtifaCts • GOlD mininG, fORestRy anD bentOnite • authentiC antique WaGOns anD faRm implements

• fuRnisheD lOG Cabin anD RuRal sChOOlhOuse • live lOnGhORn Cattle • bOOk stORe & Gift shOp • live COWbOy musiC anD pOetRy • LIVE HISTORICAL PROGRAMS

see OuR viRtual tOuR at WWW.WesteRnheRitaGeCenteR.COm

Preserving the past for future generations.

OPEN June 1–September 30 Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sat 10 am–4 pm Sun 1:30 pm–4:30 pm 905 1st Ave N, Dakota City, IA 50529 515-332-5280

Open Daily 9-5 • i-90 exit 14 (605) 642-West (9378)

2/4/14 3:53 PM

Vesterheim

The National Norwegian-American Museum & Heritage Center Check out the fantastic “fjords of Norway” mural in Vesterheim’s lobby

Open all year in scenic Decorah, Iowa. 563-382-9681 • vesterheim.org 63 THE IOWANwww.IowaMuseums.org July/August 2011

portfolio

Iowa in Black &White In a celebration of its 75 years of photography exhibition, the Iowa State Fair 2014 photography salon competition featured black-and-white photographs exclusively. More than 1,000 photographers submitted nearly 4,000 images to the 2014 competition, which was highly selective — only 22 percent of the photographs submitted were selected for display. They included some of the most stunning compositions we’ve seen in a very long time. As we do each year, The Iowan is proud to share our pick of the exhibited photographs here. They represent our choice of the finest images taken in Iowa by Iowa photographers. We believe each one of them would make the late Ansel Adams, one of the world’s foremost black and white photographers, proud. Interested in entering some of your images in the 2015 photography salon? See the instructions below. As in past years, The Iowan is sponsoring the Iowa Places award.

TO ENTER YOUR PHOTOS In 2015, the Iowa State Fair photography salon will once again feature both color and black-and-white photography. For information about how to enter one or more of your images in the salon: iowastatefair.org

iowan.com

The Art of Creation Jeff Johnson, Grimes

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

iowan.com

The Dam-to-Dam Thirst Jolene Stephenson, Des Moines

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

iowan.com

Working Man Nathanial Brown, Boone

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

VISITDECORAH.COM

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Planting Tools

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Open Monday - Friday 8-6, Saturday 8-5, Sunday 10-5

Watering Cans Fertilizers Curatives

Serving Iowans with professionally monitored emergency response systems since 1995!

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Plant Stakes

Garden Art 3/27/15 1:47 PM

garden center • greenhouses golf course • flower shoppe

1301 South Gilbert Street, Iowa City • 1-800-337-3118 www.pleasantvalleyic.com

Nobody works harder (or smarter)

to manage your risk.

“Our people make the difference” Excellent Service! Competitive Costs! INSURANCE AGENTS & BROKERS 300 Walnut Street Suite 200 Des Moines, Iowa 50309-2262 800-767-1724

www.reynolds-reynolds.com May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

THINKSTOCK Â®

fromthearchives

Summertime! Real accounts of Iowa life in the 1800s taken from newspapers of the time

iowan.com

SPEED RECORD The steamboat Grey Eagle established a new upstream record in a run from East Dubuque to St. Paul. The new mark was made while racing the steamboat Itasca,

CIRCUS ATTRACTIONS

which left from Prairie du Chien, to

This is the time of year when various summer and other maladies are prevalent.

deliver England’s salutation to America

In summer Iowans young and old enjoy

on the completion of the laying of the

very superior in all cases of sprains,

the circus. The residents of Keokuk and

Atlantic cable. The time of Grey Eagle

bruises, on man or beast.

the surrounding area will see the Great

on its 265 mile route was 24 hours and

THE DIARRHEA. Put into a bottle three

French and American Circus soon.

40 minutes or ten and three-fourths

ounces of pimento (allspice) upon

miles per hour. On its 205 mile run,

which pour one pint of the best French

the dullest times; such is the curiosity

Itasca made an average time of eight

brandy. Sweeten well with sugar. Dose:

of mankind. Men and women who can

and one-third miles per hour.

a wineglass full every hour, for three

The circus always draws, even in

hours, for an adult. For children, dilute,

scarcely live at home will scrape up a quarter’s worth of some sort of plunder, and sell it to make a raise for the circus.

EXCURSIONS

GREATEST SIGHT The greatest sight ever seen on the Mississippi has been reported by the (Keokuk) Gate City. It is the largest raft

Steamboat excursions have given

ever floated on the upper Mississippi

welcome diversion to many Iowans

which passed on its way to St. Louis.

during the summer months. In Sioux

The raft was manned by 24 Red Shirts,

City a number of our citizens chartered

every man at his oar and every oar

the Lewis Burnes and on Tuesday went

doing its work. The raft was 660 feet

on an excursion up the Big Sioux,

long, 200 feet wide, one million feet of

intending to remain two days. The party

lumber together with 250,000 lath and

consisted of about 35 persons, one-half

250,000 shingles. There were two good-

of whom were ladies.

sized houses erected on board and

Some Iowans extend their social

the whole crew consisted of a captain,

activities to include more lengthy

24 oarsmen, two cooks, one clerk and

steamboat voyages.

a bottle washer, a black bear and a bulldog.

REMEDIES This is the time of year when various

and give a tablespoonful each hour. This remedy has been known to cure in violent cases of diarrhea. CURE FOR SPRAINS. In the Paris hospitals a treatment is practiced that is found most successful for a frequent accident, and which can be applied by the most inexperienced. If the ankle is sprained, for instance, let the operator hold the foot in his hands, with the thumbs meeting on the swollen part. These having been previously greased are pressed successively with increasing force on the injured and painful spot about a quarter of an hour. This application being repeated several times will, in the course of a day, enable the patient to walk, when other means would have failed to relieve him.

summer and other maladies are prevalent. For any readers who might benefit, some of the following are offered. TO CURE A BOIL. The skin of a boiled egg is the most efficacious remedy that can be applied to a boil. Peel it carefully, The Daily Journal of Muscatine tells

wet and apply it. It will relieve the

of an excursion to St. Paul: “Members

soreness in a few hours.

of Unger’s Brass Band will leave on the

AN EXCELLENT LINIMENT. Take the

Northern line packet Metropolitan, at

whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth,

5 o’clock this evening on an excursion

a wineglass of vinegar, a wineglass of

to St. Paul — to be absent a week. They

spirits of turpentine, and a wineglass

will no doubt have a pleasant time.

of alcohol, beating all the time. This

The present extremely warm weather

liniment must be put together in the

makes a trip to a more northern latitude

order mentioned above, or it will not be

desirable.”

thoroughly incorporated. We find this

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

Jackson Co. Iowa

International Woodcarvers Congress June 17–21, 2015

Simply Beautiful!

Incredible works of art you have to see to believe!

16th Annual Timber City Adventure Race June 20, 2015

Canoe, bike and run a 5K by yourself or as a part of a team through the beauty of Jackson County.

Handmade, Wood Fire Pizza

Maquoketa Motor Madness June 27–28, 2015

Live music, car show vendors, display art, burnout pits, camping and dirt track activities. 563-357-3775 www.maquoketamotormadness.com

“Stop in for a peace!”

BOMBFIRE PIZZERIA

Sabula, IA 563-249-8688 www.bombfiresabula.com BombfirePizza_MJIowan_2014.indd 1

Maquoketa Area Chamber of Commerce 124 S. Main Street, STE. 2 • Maquoketa, IA 52060 800-989-4602 • maquoketachamber.com

Maquoketa_MJIowan_2015.indd 1 3/18/14 11:22 AM

Why go out for ordinary when you can have

3/20/15 11:57 AM

You’re always welcome.

NEW in 2013 Indoor pool, free wi-fi fitness center, free breakfast 4115 N Riverview Dr. Bellevue, IA 563-872-5000 www.baymontinnsuitesbellevue.com

Extraordinary?

"Where the only thing better than the food, is the view."

118 North Riverview Bellevue, Iowa 563-872-3164 www.WaterStreetBellevue.com

WaterStMarket_MJIowan_2014.indd 1

iowan.com

FUNDING PROVIDED BY:

4111 N Riverview Dr. Bellevue, IA 563-872-5800 www.offshorebellevueia.com

3/12/14 12:03 PM

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3/10/15 9:58 AM

2.29"x4.75"-2_Layout 1 1/14/14 3:15 PM Page 1

THE JACKSON COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY

• Located on the Great River Road and Grant Wood Scenic Byway • Historic Downtown

Annual Events June – Jackson County Pro Rodeo July – Heritage Days Celebration August – “Fishtival” Arts Festival

Two Fine Museums Jackson County History Museum Engaging exhibits that tell the story of Jackson County. Period rooms, 2-headed calf, 1914 Case steam engine, authentic log cabin and so much more!

GRAND RE-OPENING OF THE PENNINGROTH MACHINE SHED Sunday May 3, 11am–4pm 1212 East Quarry Street / Fairgrounds Maquoketa, Iowa 52060 563-652-5020 museum@jciahs.com

Clinton Engines Museum An Iowa Great Place, the restored administration building is now a fun interactive museum; Race a Go-Kart, build an engine, view some of the 18,000,000 engines built here. Also visit the Jackson County Research and Genealogical Library.

Check the Calendar of Events on our website!

563-872-5830 • bellevueia.com

605 East Maple Street Maquoketa, Iowa 52060 563-652-1803 www.clintonengines.com Admission is $3 for one / $5 for both - ample parking, handicapped accessible. Hours of operation: 10 - 4 Tues through Fri 12 - 4 Sat & Sun Closed Mon. and major holidays

JacksonCoHist_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

3/16/15 11:32 AM

Ohnward Fine Arts Center

“Bringing the arts to everyone!”

Shining Star

Saturday May 16, 2015 at 7:00PM The Earth Wind & Fire tribute that brings that magical era of the 70’s and 80’s alive. TICKETS–Advance: Adults $22, Students $13 At door: Adults $25, Students $15

John Conlee Sunday June 14 at 2:00PM

NEW AND USED BOOKS Games, toys and puzzles for all ages Gifts and cards and so much more!! SPECIAL ORDERS WELCOME!

OPEN DAILY

John Conlee has been a member of the Grand Ole Opry since 1981. TICKETS–All tickets $25 in advance and $30 at the door

1215 E Platt St. Maquoketa, IA 52060 (563) 652-9815 Box Office M–F 9 AM–1 PM or purchase tickets online at: ohnwardfineartscenter.com

Ohnward_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

Mon–Sat 10am–5pm Sun 11am–4pm

110 S Riverview St. Bellevue, IA 563-872-4802 www.bellevuebookworm.com

Bookworm_MJIowan_2015.indd 1 3/25/15 11:22 AM

JULY 29TH – AUG 2ND, 2015

BIGGER & BETTER for 2015 Montgomery Gentry

Saturday, August 1st Tickets still available. To order by phone call: (563) 652-4282 More information online at:

www.jacksoncountyiowafair.com

Jackson 3/12/15 11:52 AM County Fair 2015.indd 1

May/June 2015

2/23/15 1:19 PM

THE IOWAN

Jackson Co. Iowa – Simply Beautiful!

61 Drive In

The Decker Hotel 1875 FULL SERVICE AUCTION COMPANY Whole Estate Settling • Liquidations Coins & Currency • Guns Antiques & Collectibles • Real Estate Online Bidding & Live Internet Auction Capable PROFESSIONAL AND EFFICIENT 123 McKinsey Drive Maquoketa, Iowa 52060 (563) 357-9901 www.schuellerauctionco.com

Come visit this Historic Hotel built in 1875. We offer beautifully decorated rooms, great dining and a popular lounge. Lunch: Wed-Thurs 11:00-3:00pm. Dinner: 4:30-8:30pm Fri & Sat Dinner: 4:30pm-9:00pm. Breakfast buffet every Sunday from 9:00-1:00. Lounge open Wednesday thru Saturday 4:30-close. Happy hour daily.

563-652-1875 www.deckerhotel1875.com

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Old City Hall Gallery

What's Showing? Call 563-652-3535 Since 1950 – one of only four drive ins in Iowa! Located 5 miles south of Maquoketa Dennis Voy – Owner

3/9/15 2:35 PM

121 S. Olive St Maquoketa, Iowa 563-652-3405

MEET–SEE–CREATE

Come browse2/17/14 our purses, jewelry, greeting cards, handcrafted cabinets and Betty Jane Chocolates. We also carry wine, dips, salsa and so much more!!

100 S Main St. Maquoketa 563-652-4933

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Stone Street Cottage

MaqArtExp_MJIowan_2015.indd 1 2:39 PM

2/25/15 3:50 PM

Nestled between towering, wooded bluffs and the enchanting beauty of the mighty Mississippi River. This beautifully restored cottage is a captivating get-away just waiting for you! 901 Stone Street Bellevue, Iowa 52031 (563) 872-3610 stonestreetcottage.com

3/16/15 11:12 AM StoneStreet_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

3/12/15 3:55 PM

Rediscover an era of elegance Whispering Meadows Resort LLC River Ridge ATV Trails LLC 34580 100th St., Spragueville, IA Steve & Kathy Tebbe (Owners) 563-357-3784 whisperingmeadows@yahoo.com www.whisperingmeadowsresort.com

WhisperingMeadows_MJIowan_2015.indd 1

iowan.com

Educational Exhibits • Nature Trails Outdoor Play Area • Free Admission Open Weekdays 9-4 • Weekends Noon-5 U.S. Highway 61, 1 mile N. of Maquoketa. Nature Center/Visitor Center 563-652-3783 Visit jacksonccb.com to learn more.

Artist: Rose Frantzen www.oldcityhallgallery.com

Old City Hall Art GalleryREV1.indd 1

Hurstville Interpretive Center

Jacuzzis • Suites • Candlelight Dessert FREE wi-fi Check out our FIVE STAR reviews Visit squiersmanor.com for special packages

(563) 652-6961

418 West Pleasant St. • Maquoketa, IA 52060

SquierManor_MJIowan_2014.indd 1 2/23/15 3:36 PM

Kalmes Restaurant & Catering Stop in for a good old-fashioned home cooked meal!

 Specializing in Ribeye Steaks Sunday Brunch 8–11:30am 100 North Main Street St. Donatus, IA 52071 563.773.2480 563.872.3378 www.kalmesrestaurant.com

Kalmes_MJIowan_2014.indd 1 2/27/14 1:58 PM

2/11/14 4:48 PM

Fascinating history... Unique stories... Stunning photography... Find them all in THE IOWAN BOOKS...

Northeast Iowa's premier destination garden center. Celebrating twenty years in 2015! Showcasing over an acre of display gardens, featuring water gardens, Garden Cottage, Gift House, and a diverse selection of hosta, daylilies, dwarf conifers, perennials, succulents, bedding plants, shrubs, garden gifts, water plants, trees, and more.

Open everyday April 24–October 108 E Wilbur St, Hawkeye, IA 52147 (30 minutes South of Decorah)

www.kkgardens.com 563-427-5373

HOURS M–F 10–7 Sat 8–6 Sun 10–5

KKGardens_MAIowan_2015.indd 1

1/23/15 12:07 PM

In the Country

THIS IS HOSTA C OU N T RY!

Garden & Gifts

A one-of-a-kind destination for gardeners looking for unique plants, fun garden gifts, and inspiration! Innovative Hostas & Water Plants Shade Perennials & Succulents Fairy Garden Plants & Accessories Dwarf Conifers

WE SHIP! ORDER ONLINE! www.inthecountrygardenandgifts.com

Opening for the season April 1

2587 Quasqueton Diag. Blvd, Independence, IA 319-934-3620 • Tues–Sun 9–6

Trouble Sleeping?

IntheCountry_MAIowan_2015.indd 1

Trouble Sleeping? Trouble Sleeping?

Come see our large selection of Come see ourfeather & down Come see our large selection feather & pillows,comforters large selection of Come seeofour down pillows, comforters and feather beds. feather & down and large featherselection beds. of

Picture credits Von Presley Studios

books

Picture credits Von Presley Studios

www.iowan.com or 515-246-0402

1/20/15 11:48 AM

pillows,comforters and feather beds.

feather & down pillows,comforters Czech Feather and Czech Feather Downfeather Co. L.L.C. beds. Pillows made to order, any size or weight. Pillows made to order, any size or weight. Pillow cleaning available. L.L.C. Pillows made to order, any size or weight. & Down Co. 100+ year old family owned and operated Pillow cleaning available.

Pillow cleaning available.

100+ year old family owned and operated

103 1st St NW, Mt Vernon, (319) 895-6551, www.czechfeatherdownco.com

103 1st Mt Vernon, 895-6551, www.czechfeatherdownco.com 103 1st St NW,St Mt NW, Vernon, (319) 895-6551, (319) www.czechfeatherdownco.com

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2014 Catalog of Books1-3 V.indd 1

3/27/15 2:20 PM

Pillows made to order, any size or weight. Pillow cleaning available.

Czech Feather L.L.C. & Down Co. May/June 2015 THE IOWAN

3/27/15 4:28 PM

100+ year old family owned and operated

flashback

60 Years Ago in The Iowan

A classic Farmall M plowed the May 1955 cover, while inside subjects ranged from archaeology to VEISHEA — and even included a cartoon.

This cartoon was captioned “Wow! My old man just told me the facts about hybrid corn!”

Not every reader was pleased with our choice of machine. “The idea of putting anything but a John Deere or Oliver tractor on the cover,” fumed one Waterloo reader.

This map accompanied an article on Iowa archaeology that traced Iowa habitation back to 8000 B.C. A Coon Rapids minister objected, saying the date was “nearly 4,000 years before the creation of Adam.”

iowan.com

A photoessay followed the history of Iowa State’s VEISHEA festival from early canoe races on Lake LaVerne to an open house in an atomic research lab.

“Since 1945, 875 new industries have located in Iowa,” boasted a Iowa Development Commission ad. Although it called the state “the land of gold that grows” in cornfields, the commission actively sought industry, citing quality of life advantages. “Iowa . . . where it’s only minutes from work to play.” Long-distance personal calls — often facilitated by an operator — were an expensive luxury in 1955. “For faster service — call by number,” urged the ad.

May/June 2015

THE IOWAN

escapades

Grandpa and the Ballplayer How Roger Maris perfected his swing story and illustration by DAVE TOHT

After 40 years on their 240-acre farm, seeing it through the Depression, a house fire, and the vagaries of weather, my grandparents retired to a neat little 15-acre farm perched on a Mississippi River bluff near Keokuk. It was a nice place for them to take life a bit easier. Not that they stopped working. They raised hogs, steers, and about a hundred hens. Grandma canned the produce from a vast garden. Grandpa rotated beans, corn, and alfalfa, broadcasting seed for the latter with a tube-and-sack rig he swung as he strode across the field. He was doing just that one summer morning when a young man hailed him from the road. He explained that he

Despite his indifference to baseball, Grandpa remembered

was a minor league baseball player with the Keokuk Kernels.

the player’s name: Roger Maris. Maris played for the Keokuk

His manager wanted him to work on his swing. He wondered

Kernels from 1954 to 1957 before moving up to the Yankees.

if Grandpa had a few trees he could chop down.

In 1961 he hit 61 home runs, breaking Babe Ruth’s 1927 single-

Now, understand that my grandfather didn’t follow sports and probably barely knew that Keokuk had a Minor League team.

season record of 60 homers. Oddly enough, Maris was famous for using an extra-

Baseball held no interest for him. His all-consuming passion

large 35-inch, 33-ounce bat — just the size and weight of a

was the Bible. Several evenings a week he would turn on his

felling axe.

desk lamp, pull out his Young’s Analytical Concordance to the Bible, and pour over the King James Version, making notes in his expansive copperplate hand. He prided himself on uncovering secrets others had missed, proof that an eighth-grade education

Dave Toht is a writer, illustrator, book publisher, and blogger (davetoht.tumblr.com).

is enough when you have a probing mind and a farmer’s common sense. Still, Grandpa was happy to help the young man. He handed him an axe and directed him into a pasture gully, where three scraggly beech trees were doing no good at all. The ballplayer spent a couple hours chopping, thanked Grandpa, and walked back to Keokuk.

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Do you have a story about your escapades in Iowa? Email it to editor@iowan.com and we’ll consider it for publication.

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M O C . Y A W E C A R E L L I V X KNO November/December 2013 | THE IOWAN

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