Home from Home? Creating Housing for Your Rabbits
Wednesday, 10 December 14
A few aspects we will discuss
• How did we end up with the ‘hutch’? • Whose ideal housing? • Some ideas for adapting the ‘hutch’ idea entrance, interior, size, height etc
• Sheds and Kennels • Security issues - wood, mesh, bolts etc • Fox proofing • Indoor housing . . . Wednesday, 10 December 14
So how did we get where we are? • The ‘hutch’ is actually a relatively recent way of keeping rabbits.
• In the medieval period in northern Europe rabbits
were kept in specially constructed underground tunnels with mounds built over them - this allowed them to act normally, eat and breed well, and generally replenish the supply of rabbits for the table . . . .
• But there were ‘disadvantages’ for the rabbit keeper . . .
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The difficulty of catching your rabbit
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Gradually rabbits began to be kept above ground - often in outbuildings. This gave the rabbits space to behave ‘normally (and thus breed and gain weight which was the aim for these rabbit keepers), but meant they were easier to catch.
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The Rabbit Hutch (c1898) Helen Allingham Wednesday, 10 December 14
The Rabbit Hutch (1865) Charles Green
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However as the rabbit became a foodstuff for the poor rather than the wealthy - so the accommodation provided shrank from an extensive hand built warren in an open park, to a bare minimum of ‘safe’ shelter.
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Responding to the lack of house and garden space in poorer human housing, or lack of materials to build anything with . . . the ‘hutch’ was born. In a way poor crowded housing for an animal kept by people themselves in poor crowded accommodation.
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Unfortunately this vision has ‘hung on’ for pet owners - who should be providing so much more for long lived loved pet rabbits
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Thankyou to Best4bunny for this excellent poster!!
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But as we all know . . a Hutch is Not Enough . . so where do we go from here? Wednesday, 10 December 14
From an owners’ point of view the rabbits’ home-base needs to:
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allow you to relatively easily see and handle your rabbit and catch when necessary
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be easy to clean regularly and thoroughly
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fit into the space you have available (although there are minimum spaces below which it is simply not possible to house a bunny suitably)
provide Safety from predators (not necessarily perceived in the same way as the rabbit sense of ‘security)
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From the rabbits’ point of view their ‘home base’ needs to provide:
• Similarity to ‘natural’ environment: (allowing rabbity behaviour )
natural
• Space (again allowing natural behaviour) • Security (rabbits’ perception of) • Things to ‘do’ (unlike wild rabbits many domestic
rabbits do not have a natural environment to interact with or a large social grouping and they need environmental enrichment - as well as a companion)
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The rabbit view of the perfect home Wednesday, 10 December 14
How do we bring these two visions closer together?
Or to put it a better way How do we make it closer to the rabbits’ vision of a perfect home without totally sacrificing the necessary parts of the human vision ? Wednesday, 10 December 14
This was the traditional human view of the perfect rabbit home and is still the base of many rabbit housing on salebut although it fulfills the list of human needs for housing it does NOT satisfy the list of rabbit needs
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Lets look in more detail at what the rabbit’s idea of the perfect home entails (aided by our knowledge of rabbit behaviour)
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For security: Where possible, high look out points close to the entrance
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Access: Small, preferably hidden, access points - often under bushes
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Once inside: Long narrow burrows with twists and turns
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Proximity to large exercise and grazing areas
Multiple Entrances/Exits: A choice of exists and entrances from any given space Interior: Larger underground ‘cavities’ opening out from burrows for communal activities, sleeping etc This combination provides (perceived and real) security and ability to perform natural behaviours - as highlighted in the first slide
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The traditional hutch on the other hand provides the opposite of what a rabbit wants: :
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Large open‘entrance’ allowing any other animal (and humans) in
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Same exit and entrance
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No changes of level, no highpoints to view from, no access to other areas to graze or exercise
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the rabbit is basically ‘on view’ at all times
No narrow tunnels and accompanying cavities
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First of all I am going to look at what we can do to improve things from the rabbit point of view based on our basic idea of the ‘hutch’ shape (and why in many cases that is still a valid starting point) before going on to look at other options . .
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Lets take that first element of the rabbits perfect housing: A small entrance/exit For the rabbit that spells ‘security’ allowing the rabbit in but keeping most large predators out. It also allows rabbits to keep out other rabbits who do not belong to their warren.
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Its a fact of rabbit behaviour that they like to ‘look out’ of small spaces
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even when the rest of the body is actually on view!
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But for the human - even when the entrance is into a ‘hutch’ style accommodation rather than a burrow the small entrance presents real problems . .
Reaching in to pick up the rabbit is tricky Accessing the rest of the living quarters is very difficult Cleaning is impossible
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A relatively simple solution to this is to cut a small ‘poop hole’ (inspired by the traditional hen house) in the door of your hutch. This allows the illusion of restricted access - and those perfect views - whilst allowing full access for cleaning. Note the climbing rabbit . . which we will come back to Wednesday, 10 December 14
‘Surprise’!!
Openable for cleaning Note also the ‘night shutters’ on this and the earlier image
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closure methods for a ‘poop hole - The entrance can also be created with a cat flap or part of the runaround system Wednesday, 10 December 14
Cat flaps can be installed for inside or outside housing - or to connect the two. Use microchip number activated ones to ensure that a cat does not come through!
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A cat flap in the wall leads to a wooden tunnel which leads to an outside run for a house rabbit
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nice use of ‘rabbit flap’ Wednesday, 10 December 14
Having gained access to their living area or play area through a small entrance hole, it may come as a disappointment to the rabbit to find itself in a large open-plan room! Don’t forget in the wild beyond the entrance would be a series of narrow tunnels leading to larger communal areas. Even the grazing area would have hiding places. Like many humans, rabbits dont ‘do’ open plan
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Having spent hundreds of pounds buying the biggest space possible for your rabbits it may seem counter intuitive to then fill it with lots of tiny spaces - but rabbit like to spend their rest time in restricted space . . . its a security instinct
Willow squeezed into a low space
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Willow squeezed into a tall space!
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a nice range of hiding places
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These tunnels ae great - although may need frequent re-newing! Wednesday, 10 December 14
A range of smaller shelters can also work very well including old cast off hutches and ‘runs’ Wednesday, 10 December 14
This provision of a restricted space is something that if installed in ‘burrow style’ would make accessing your rabbit and cleaning almost impossible . . but with a little DIY, or a few purchases, artificial tunnels or short lengths of ‘burrow’ can easily be placed into a ‘hutch’ or larger living area to provide the desired effect. It can make cleaning a longer task but from the rabbits point of view cleaning is not something they worry about. Believe it or not this is a shed!
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Multiple exits and entrances: With a little planning and the help of modern plastics technology . . one can combine the need for narrow tunnels with the desire for having a choice of exists and entrances . . all still working within the ‘framework’ of the hutch idea this tunnel on the left links the two ‘back to back’ hutches and a third small coop, which also have other entrances. Note the low rise hutch legs - this means the rabbits can also use the shelter underneath - but is not so high that you could drop them when picking them up - a danger of the traditional hutch on tall legs. NB Placing legs on bricks or wood will help preserve the legs
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This using the now ‘classic’ wire box that forms part of a runaround system - but could equally be multiple entrance/exits to a hutch although BEWARE of weakening the hutch structure. (NB I have also adapted old dog-crates and even carry crates to do this - a good use of the many unwanted crates that accumulate! ).
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NB This very extensive system of exits/entrances with its long tunnels may bring with it issues of catching the rabbits (who have a remarkable facility for clinging to the inside of a runaround tunnel even when it is tilted vertical!) and also brings issues of cleaning the tunnels of moulted hair or parasites Wednesday, 10 December 14
much better than the cheaper single tunnels these allow multiple options for the rabbit and echo the burrow system see http://www.hopinn-info.co.uk
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Finally - in our consideration of how to ‘rabbitify’ the traditional hutch concept - we come to size and height We are all hopefully aware of the absolute minimum size given as guidelines by the RWA for a hutch 6ft x 2ft x 2ft (attached to a run minimum 8ftx4ft) and most of us would now aim for as large as possible - allowing the rabbit/s to at least take several hops, periscope up, stretch out, etc Although I would also argue that as important, once you get to that minimum, is the enriching of that ‘hutch’ to be closer to the rabbits’ natural environment and less of an ‘open plan’ hall.
Size actually isn’t everything - its just one element Wednesday, 10 December 14
One of the easiest ways to get a larger ‘hutch’ (or what I would prefer to refer to as ‘home base’ ) is to buy a Wendy House or a Shed - of course with a run attached. Cost wise these are often cheaper than a large hutch - and easier to get. Although do be AWARE of poor quality in cheap shed manufacture. Many sheds simply will not last and also have poor flooring and weak windows. ALWAYS strengthen or mesh the windows and always buy the type of boarding shown here (shiplap) NOT overlap.
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In many ways a shed is just a hutch grown large - and gives a larger floor space (and height) which is ideal But don’t forget your rabbits will still want to have tunnels, confined spaces and narrow entrances - and of course a way of using all that height!!. . . shelving or staging is ideal : Do be aware that unlike a traditional hutch rabbits can often not see out of a shed and just look at four wooden walls once the door is closed.You can solve this by putting a shelf next to a ‘look out’ Wednesday, 10 December 14
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When planning housing always look at it from the rabbits’ point of view - what can they see (if anything)?
I usually look at mine from the front of the chalet (the door) and looking down; and it was only when I got down by the side of one I realised that they could all see each other in all the other chalets so can ‘interact’ between the groups. This is particularly important as rabbits are ‘long-sighted’ Wednesday, 10 December 14
Putting a shelf in allows rabbits to climb (which they love)
AND to see out! Wednesday, 10 December 14
Shelves make use of height and also get rabbits up to where there might be a look out
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Even a ‘low’ run can have shelving added to help the rabbits enjoy this natural activity - which incidentally also gets them off the cold/hot ground and adds more exercise. Wednesday, 10 December 14
Hanging out above ground level Wednesday, 10 December 14
Stretching up . . .
and looking down . . .
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If you don’t want to add built in shelves, a chair will often do . . again make sure the run is tall enough to insert a range of platforms or chairs
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‘What do you mean ‘rabbits are ground dwelling’??’
Platforms made of ready made decking squares! Wednesday, 10 December 14
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Double level hutches? Although they can give added height - I am not a great fan of double level hutches - generally the ramp is too steep, and it takes up so much room both on the ground floor and out of the floor level of the upper floor that it just creates two small and awkward levels. In fact an over enthusiastic rabbit can do themselves a lot of harm on the ascent or descent by running into the sides of the hutch.
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I have actually now given up on ramps except where I have elderly rabbits - and instead let them jump up and down - here accessing all three levels of the rabbit ‘chalet’ for good use of space.
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Although rabbits may only be a foot tall (plus ears!) they not only need to be able to stand up on their hind legs or haunches (periscope) they also like to to ‘climb’ Not for climbings sake - but to get a better view! Don’t forget our original picture.
Some wildies will even climb trees for security! while nearly any bun will head upwards for a better view of predators . . or just to be nosy! Wednesday, 10 December 14
Further evidence of the extraordinary ascent of ‘climbing’ buns! (excuse the state of the front wood bit on the shelter - we replaced it the next day! )
Close up of rabbit claw marks on the roof shown to the left
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‘The only way is up’
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Which brings us to height of the ‘home-base’ . . . Bunnies are quite low (although they like to be high) on the other hand humans are quite high and often do not appreciate being made to bend low . . . (especially as they get older). Sweeping out poo and hay every week inside a run or Wendy House only 4 ft high has given many a rabbit owner a premature bad back. As someone who spends a whole day once a week cleaning out I would always recommend a ‘walk in’ run and home base 6ft tall. Wednesday, 10 December 14
Great window closure and meshed window but that run looks too low for easy walk in cleaning Wednesday, 10 December 14
This looks just about tall enough not to have to duck or bend when cleaning! Note the draughtproofing at base and the ‘stable door’ set up. A ‘stepover’ is also an excellent idea to prevent bunnies running through your legs when you open the door to go in.
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A good height and presumably a shelf on the other side but the ‘run’ is far too small
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Quality and Security Issues: (The Human View) Wood: ensure that any housing is of good quality wood - not thin cheap plywood or composite which will rot quickly and be easily chewed through. Check ALL sides and back and front and top and bottom - ALL should be good quality wood or exterior ply 12mm minimum thick- not just the front! Roof felt can hide a multitude of sins! Always check under it. I prefer a solid wood roof to a roof felt roof Sheds should be shiplap not overlap - overlap is weak and has a tendency to fall apart! Timberwork on runs should be of large enough timbers that they will survive years of rabbit gnawing! Mesh: buy the best quality thickest mesh you can afford - minimum 19 but preferably 16 gauge or less (the smaller the gauge the thicker the wire).NEVER use ‘chicken wire’ - it is for keeping hens In not predators our - and chickens dont have teeth! Staple on the INSIDE so that a fox cannot tear it off from the outside
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This composite board is being used as a lining - but you will find it used on its own in some cheap hutches and shed floors. Thin ply or chipboard are also to be avoided!
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Chunky wood - the basic strength of any run or hutchnote the ‘step over’
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A cheaper aviary/run system using thinner wood will not last as long
This aviary panel will last much much longer and be stronger even after it has been nibbled. It is an investment!
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Mesh: Comes in a measurement that measures the ‘hole’ and a gauge that tells you the diameter of the wire itself. A typical measurement will say 20mm by 10mm x16 gauge.
Make sure the holes are small enough to keep out rats - you will never keep out small shrews and woodmice! Wednesday, 10 December 14
Never bother with chicken wire for anything - except maybe under-wiring turf runs. Although even then a determined rabbit will dig through it Wednesday, 10 December 14
Bolts - make them large and easy to use on a cold morning and ‘obvious’ if left part open. Always click into place ‘down’ so easy to swiftly check by eye. Padlocks - keep human predators at bay as well as animal ones (NB this is 19 gauge mesh - the minimum I would use. I now mainly use 16 gauge and staple it inside - this is one of our old aviary runs)
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Flooring:
Concrete slabs or specially laid base: Good on security - keeps rabbits nails down, but can be cold and wet and slabs can get rats under Grass - poor on security unless meshed thoroughly - can be difficult to clean - will need re-turfing. Other tough flooring (we have cattle grade recycled 18mm thick rot proof plastic) can be slippery when wet, not rough enough to keep nails down but again ultra secure as very very heavy and totally gnawproof!. Wooden floor - tends to stain and get soaked in wee. Some people add lino -although I have never managed to stop wee getting under the lino! If covering the wood then check regularly for rot which will make it insecure. Many shed bases are very low quality and a fox will dig under and then up through the floor
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This looks good - the wood is shiplap and it has great bolts and the roof is lined with wood inside, - but the mesh size is way too big for a rabbit and needs replacing for use as a rabbit home rather than a kennel - though many makers will do that for you! It also needs a hard base or total undermeshing.
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This looks great and is good for buns - but cleaning is an issue (especially if you need to do a deep clean after EC etc), and it will need re-turfing on a regular basis as well as underwiring. Worry about those large panels of mesh as well. Wednesday, 10 December 14
re-turfing is often the only way to really ‘clean’ an outdoor run. here the turfs were placed on the patio and allowed to grow for a few months before replacing
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Lino on top of a good floor Wednesday, 10 December 14
Security Issues the Rabbits point of View Padlocks and bolts and secure flooring do not enter into a bunnies view of ‘security’. What they prefer is a nice dark tunnel with limited access except for rabbit sized mammals! These can be either artificial or natural
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Disguising the entrance is a rabbit’s idea of security Wednesday, 10 December 14
Which is back to where we started . . . or maybe where rabbits started! In a small hole (in a large meadow) leading to a winding burrow . . . totally inaccessible to a human who wants to take you to the vet or check your ears or bottom - or even just see you more than once every two weeks! The perfect home for the introvert rabbit!
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The ideal rabbit home is underground !! Wednesday, 10 December 14
However nice your housing never ever forget the ‘run’ aspect! Even though we have discussed ‘aviary’ runs personally I would still try and let the buns out into an even larger area where possible - unless you can manage an aviary of at least 15ft long. This area is 36ft by 36ft - and the rabbits are let out in turns in their groups - this gives good exercise and enrichment and social communications - but means that cleaning of the shared area is impossible (other than raking up poo) Wednesday, 10 December 14
It’s good to get out occasionally . . . Wednesday, 10 December 14
Try fencing the garden - not the rabbit. Although obviously with something a little chunkier than this fence! Unless your rabbit is very determined (which may indicate they do not have enough space) then a 2.5ft fence should be fine - you can make one out of old (or new) run panels. The metal panels that are used to make small runs are very good for this - being decorative as well as functional. Wednesday, 10 December 14
Here I have used mesh ‘run’ panels from the cheap type of inadequate octagonal runs to fence IN the flower garden.
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Having looked at how to adapt a traditional hutch style to be a more rabbity homebase, and touched on aspects such as cleanability, access, height, security, mesh etc and the role of sheds and dog kennel style - I would like to just add a few thoughts on fox and predator proofing. Serious security issues aimed not just at keeping the rabbit in - but keeping the fox
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A few facts about fox proofing • A fence is only as high as its height from • A fox can tear apart mesh less than 19 the nearest climbable object! A fox can easily climb over anything under 7ft especially if you are stupid enough to leave a bin/shed/chair/large shrub next to the fence or provide a trellis fence which has the equivalent of ‘handholds’.You need at least a metre between the fence and nearest object on the ‘outside’ (and preferably on the ‘inside’).
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A fox can dig under any fence that has not had either concrete slabs set on edge and buried to a depth of at least a foot or strong mesh spread out for a metre on both sides and then turfed. A fox will nearly always start by searching around the base of the fence - and then turn to the possibility of climbing
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gauge or mesh tacked on the outside rather than inside.
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Mesh is only as strong as the wood it is nailed to! Rotting wood does not hold nails
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Roofs and sides should be screwed to the walls of the home-base not nailed.
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Bolts are useless if not actually closed! CHECK twice EVERY night
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Rabbits that can hide are less likely to attract the fury and determination of the fox - give them hidey holes
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For really serious fox proofing you cannot beat a WORKING electric ‘fence’. Test your fence EVERY night. If you own a ‘Foxwatch’ sonic detector - similarly TEST the battery
Turning a 6ft fence into a 3ft fence . . . in this case on the inside but be wary of what you place against the ‘outside’ of any fence or run or even what your neighbours put against your fence Wednesday, 10 December 14
a fox will be through this is moments - it needs bolts
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Large or awkward areas that are too big for an aviary style roof can be fenced with ‘pheasant netting’ This acts as an excellent deterrent both to mammal predators and birds - it is cheap, stretchy and easy to use
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Free standing fence - electric tapes wired to the mains through an ‘energiser’ pulse, and tested every night. The ultimate in fox proofing! This will deter all ground based predators. Wednesday, 10 December 14
A lucky escape -all the best features except the electric fence! Without double meshing, solid wood, roofing, bolts and padlock - these buns would not be here now
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My design for a secure rabbit home. Pressure treated timber, tongue and groove construction, wooden roof with interior wooden lining of exterior quality ply, 16 gauge mesh, step over door entrance, full height in centre, secure ‘cabin’ inbuilt with three doors, a poop hole and night shutters. 18mm thick rot proof recycled ‘plastic’ floor on raised runners. Shelving and levels can be added or ramp access to top of cabin or seats - just needs a ‘Runaround’ tunnel connector to a secure run area, as the ‘chalet’ only measures 9ft by 6ft by 6ft - although it has a lot of possible levels adding to the square footage. We call it the ‘Twigs Rabbit Lodge’! It can be bought at GranddadRob Designs (www.granddadrobdesigns.co.uk). It is expensive but will last a lifetime and save a rabbit’s life. Wednesday, 10 December 14
for more rabbit housing images you can look on-line: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/ indoor-rabbit-house http://www.pinterest.com/explore/ outdoor-rabbit/ NOTE Not all on here are suitable but there are lots of ideas
Also see the Rabbits United section on housing http:// forums.rabbitrehome.org.uk /forum.php
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Indoor bunny housing? Its called the house . . .
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Personally I prefer to let buns free range if they are house rabbits - but if they need to be confined then a whole room is best. However again make sure that they do not just look at four walls - have a child gate across the door opening so they can see out, and have hidey holes and shelves as here - all the same as you would with outside housing. Plastic tunnels can be good - but not if they are ‘gnawing’ bunnies Wiring can either have protection put on it or arranged behind a false skirting board )(my preferred option), or taken up higher along the wall as with many European houses
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A child gate (in the background) allows you to see what is going on. Generally a 3ft normal gate will suffice - for anything higher you need what is called a ‘dog cate’ - they come up to 4ft. For slimmer bunnies you may need to put a mesh panel across the gate to stop them just getting through Wednesday, 10 December 14
The Pooh Bear problem - after this we meshed the child gate
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The tiles shown in the last image are too cold and slippery for most rabbits and on any grouted tile the wee accidents will run all over the place - so I recommend non-slip vinyl and a good old scrubbing brush
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‘Turtle mats’ (the cotton mats with rubberised backing) are totally washable and perfect for either lining dog crates as a home base or putting down where a rabbit might want to sit or (for ill bunnies) have an accident
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This fleecy bed has been given a waterproof backing using an old waterproof duvet cover - one duvet cover makes two lots of backing
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Being able to look out of windows is still important even for an indoor bun - as is outdoors exercise Wednesday, 10 December 14
But so is being able to hide . Behind the sofa is always a favourite spot. If you are worried about nibbling behind there of the sofa fabric or skirting board install a wooden tunnel between the wall and sofa back to prevent this.
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Use one of the ready made wooden ‘radiator covers’ to prevent access to things like oil fired radiators or plugs with essential wiring that cannot be moved or protected in other ways Wednesday, 10 December 14
Male bunnies in particular can have a ‘weak spot’ when it comes to soft furnishings - and in particular duvets. I use the waterproof mattress protectors you can get for both children and adults now. John Lewis does a good selection - they are NOT rubbery to the touch!!! You can also get pillow and duvet protectors the same. You can use the pillowcases under sofa or armchair covers - no one will ever know!
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OOPS!!
Make sure indoor litter trays are large enough
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If you MUST have a home base then make sure that both you and the rabbit feel happy with it . . add shelves,plenty of hay, etc If you have something ugly or inconvenient you will start to feel bad about having rabbits and increasingly restrict them or not clean them often enough. PS This bunny was only ever shut in this crate for very short periods. Wednesday, 10 December 14
Hidey holes can help in a home base crate - note the low entry cut into the side of the box . Also the thick plastic acting as a ‘roof’ in case a rabbit leaps onto the top (one of the problems I have with crates) Wednesday, 10 December 14
A conservatory can be good for a homebase and for shutting them in at night if you HAVE to - but remember it WILL get hot in summer (and even a warm day in spring or autumn) . ALWAYS ALWAYS leave a way out to the main part of the house in the daytime. Wednesday, 10 December 14
Having your own chair is good too
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providing a television is optional . .
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never ever ever stint on hay for an indoor bunny - yes its messy but that comes with having rabbits!
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THE END
With thanks to Parsley Piert Parcels for help in research and image location . . . Wednesday, 10 December 14