Fast fashion and performa- tive activism

Opinion

Illustration Lucia Thorne

Performative activism can’t change fast fashion

Stephanie Wallace

Beacon Correspondent

People love to feel like they are doing some noble thing for the greater good while in reality, they are accomplishing the bare minimum. This usually takes place through “performative activism,” the idea that pretending to do something is better than doing nothing. Sustainable fashion has become a recent example of this trend. Thrifting has gone from an easy way to save money to a status symbol for activism. While more people are learning about how harmful clothing production can be, there have been large miscommunications about how to solve the problem. Last October, a group of protestors disrupted a Louis Vuitton runway show by walking along the runway with the models, most notably a woman who jumped on the runway holding a sign that said “OVERCONSUMPTION = EXTINCTION.” It’s fair to say that high-end fashion brands contribute to a long-standing issue in classist consumption. They dictate fashion trends in all spheres yet aren’t affordable to most. However, fighting high-end fashion companies such as Chanel and Versace is not the way to go about slowing down the environmental impacts that fashion has. People have higher expectations for luxury brands than they do for fast fashion. Due to public image and the higher standards their companies are held to, luxury brands tend to be more conscientious about their impact on the environment, as well as society. However, fast fashion brands such as Zara and Forever 21, who use mass production to create products, are the companies that should be receiving criticism for their environmental impact. E-commerce brands such as Shein and Fashion Nova are in the same boat and should also be addressed when it comes to holding brands accountable for their production processes. Fast fashion gained popularity due to the inexpensive prices of their products and the large array of options they offer. These companies also promote themselves heavily on social media platforms, making them even more noticable and enticing. Their social media presence––being the most talked-about brands on TikTok and YouTube––leads consumers to these fast-fashion retailers, making them the most visited fashion and apparel sites in the world, according to the web analytics platform Similarweb. When calling for sustainable fashion, we must take into consideration that it is the clothes we are most likely to consume that contribute a considerable amount to the problem. Reuters reported that Shein has yet to disclose information about the working conditions of its factory employees to the British government, which the retailer is required to do under U.K. law. Shein had also previously falsely stated that its factories were certified by international labor standard bodies, according to Reuters. However, because they have become such an influential company, it’s easy for that to get swept under the rug. Protesting fast fashion means discussing the layers of class and interconnectedness. After all, those living on normal paychecks benefit from a clothing outlet where there are many different options every few weeks. This gives people the financial power to replace clothes as soon as they are bought. Instead of waiting until a shirt is too small or old, stores like H&M make it easier to simply buy a new clothing item instead of replacing an old one. If we are to create tangible change, we need to do it in a way that benefits those that consume fast and cheap clothing. That mostly starts with brands targeted towards women, like Shein, seeing as more than 70 percent of the world’s poorest people are women. The good news is that there is a growing general knowledge of the fact that the fashion industry has to change for the betterment of the environment and human rights. However, there is more to it than buying a second-hand item. With the increase in thrifting, two problems have risen. The first one being that thrift shops such as Goodwill have increased their prices making it harder for low-income people to afford clothing from stores they could rely on for cheap style options, which can lead to an increase of shopping at Shein or Fashion Nova as an alternative. Secondly, more people are donating their clothes, and oftentimes these clothes don’t get sold and are thrown away. The real solution, and one that is much more inconvenient, is working with politicians in order to create laws that hold fashion companies accountable, however, this is necessary. Placing an emphasis on companies’ impacts on climate change as well as humanitarian rights are ways to make strong impacts on the fashion industry.

stephanie_wallace@emerson.edu

It’s okay to put your orgasm first

Mariyam Quaisar

Beacon Staff

The other night, I came to the realization that every time I’ve ever told a guy that I orgasmed, it’s been a lie. While these lies were never meant to be hurtful or disrespectful, the truth came as an intense shock. Since becoming sexually active, my perception of what an orgasm is has been warped, leading me to believe that the pleasurable sensations I was feeling were of an orgasm, not just something that felt good, hence my dishonesty. Other times, I was just too scared to say, “no I didn’t finish, you weren’t doing it right.” Guess what friends, women are meant to orgasm, too… Sorry, I thought I had to reiterate it for the people in the back who seem to forget that. Too often I’ve heard stories about women who are denied their climax because a partner does not prioritize it or tries to, but fails miserably. There are several reports proving the imbalance between the experiences of men and women during sexual activity. Ladies, two things: don’t be afraid to tell a guy when they’re doing something wrong, and know that it’s okay to put your orgasm first. The idea of what sex should be must be reinvented as the exchange of intimacy, trust, and pleasure to counteract the dominant male culture that fails to respect mutual benefits from sexual activity. The female orgasm is just as important as the male’s—it should not be ignored, by neither men nor women. To accomplish this, partners should start by exploring a variety of erogenous zones—common ones are the neck, inner thigh, ears, and breasts. From there, gently build up the sensations. Figure out what feels good to your partner, and ladies, make sure to verbalize what you enjoy. It is very rare for women to orgasm from penetration (the insertion of a penis or other objects into a vagina), but sex is more than that anyway—it is a ceremony. Start with exploring the female body to understand all its sensitive spots and then, hit the jackpot: the clitoris. Of course, some women can experience an orgasm with vaginal penetration, but, according to the Mayo Clinic, most women climax from clitoral stimulation. After exploring the female body, partners should start their sexcapade with oral sex or fingering, or better yet, women take initiative and bring your own or your partner’s hand downtown. Either way, make sure that you orgasm before, during, or after intercourse… or all three times. Sex isn’t meant to be a one man talent show. It is important for women to expect their pleasure to be taken seriously and to not be ashamed of demanding it. I understand it may be difficult to effectively communicate with your partner and express your dislike with what they’re doing, but it’s necessary to do so. What’s the point in laying there and waiting for them to actually find your clit? Sometimes they just need some guidance, literally, to where the sweet spot is. If you’re already butt naked and sweaty, then what’s the shame in saying, “Hey kiddo, a little to the left.” Most importantly, if your partner reacts in a negative or disrespectful way when you comment on their “work ethic,” then they shouldn’t be anywhere near your vagina. It’s as simple as that. Sex is about both (or all) parties’ enjoyment, not just the male. We all know a guy can finish, but that doesn’t mean fun time is over because their penis goes back to hibernation. And to those who have the honor of pleasuring a vagina: get your head in the game. I’m not saying that all men ignore the female orgasm, but from the stories I’ve heard––and unfortunately from personal experience––way too many don’t. But guess what, watching your girl finish will make you feel tingly as well. According to Women’s Health Magazine, men feel a different type of high after making a girl come. They feel accomplished, but also tend to feel closer to their partner. After all parties orgasm, the bonding hormone—oxytocin—floods through their brains to make them feel more connected. Also, watching a girl come is hot. Watching her lose control will get you going, so why not do it? The female orgasm is sexy, and it can happen over and over again. The person you are with should want that pleasure for you, ladies. So claim it and show ‘em what you got. Illustration Lucia Thorne

mariyam_quaisar@emerson.edu

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Advisor David Dahl

The toxicity of ‘girlbossing’

Sabine Waldeck

Beacon Staff

Let’s discuss the nauseating term put forth by millennials: “Girlbossing.” People started praising the allmighty girlboss in the early 2000s, ala The Devil Wears Prada. However, at that time we had yet to name this strong successful woman, she just existed as a feminist icon that my preceding generation admired. Millennial women saw and wanted to be her. Once Sophia Amoruso, founder of NastyGal, gave her a title in her book #Girlboss it was, as many current girlbosses say, “over for you bitches.” The best definition of a girlboss I can find on the internet is from Keith A. Spencer, a journalist for the Salon, critiquing the film I Care A Lot, as a woman “whose success is defined in opposition to the masculine business world in which she swims upstream.” Girlbossing began as an empowering movement for women by women that focused on leveling up in the workforce and taking positions of power that have historically been held by men. In Amoruso’s book, she tells her story on how she created her clothing business by working her way to the top and embodying girlboss energy. Today, the more popular definition of a girlboss is to work your ass off to get a job other women will be jealous of. You must take over typically male-dominated jobs by working twice as hard as the man who had the job before you. You must have all your shit together. The girlboss is a character of what a successful woman is meant to look and act like, and therefore, if you do not fit this stereotype, you are not successful. The caricature is a woman wearing stiletto pumps while drinking black coffee walking down the mean streets of New York City to their executive position in a skyscraper. While the term initially held an empowering meaning, girlbossing intersects with sexist stereotypes when these so-called “girlbosses” value themselves, and other women, based on their job title. A constant drive for a better position causes one’s self-worth to be tied to it. When women link their self-worth to their job, it creates a value system among us. If you do not have as good of a job as these girlbosses, then you are not working hard enough. You are not a “strong woman,” and are therefore not as respected. This mimics the hierarchy that has already been put into place for generations by the patriarchy and is replaced with fake feminist rhetoric. This way of acting takes something that was once empowering and turns it into just another thing that pits women against one another. Then, if you are living the girlboss lifestyle and are finally deemed successful, often what you are left with is insane amounts of work and a system in which you quantify your worth based on your work achievements. You are not respected as a woman unless you meet the girlboss requirements. This generates a toxic perception of your value as a person and benefits a capitalistic society that has been set in place by the patriarchal system that actual feminists work hard to take down. “Gaslight, gatekeep, girlboss” has also been a common phrase over the past few months. It is meant as an ironic statement of the three toxic G words. Gaslight is to confuse someone of their realities, gatekeep is to keep things to oneself to benefit from them, and to girlboss? Well, that’s what this whole article is about. As funny as this phrase is, it represents a kind of binary, mostly a white performative kind of feminism that convinces women that if they simply work in the systems created by white men they are worthy. The concept of working hard and taking over the jobs of men seems like the picture of a perfect feminist. However, therein lies the issue. There is no perfect feminist. Feminism is not about chalking up your achievement to quantifiable actions. When we manufacture this girlboss woman it only creates more pressure to live up to yet another standard, but this time, we as women are creating it for ourselves. We need to dismantle all ideas of what women are “meant” to be. In a corporate system that is working against us, we created strong praise for the women who made it. By doing so, we leave behind the women who either do not make it or do not want that path, and in turn, are telling them they are not good enough. Let’s put an end to imitating the toxic behaviors of men and calling it feminism. Illustration Sarah Curiel

sabine_waldeck@emerson.edu

‘Twee style’ is making a comeback; we can’t let fatphobia return with it

Vivi Smilgius

Beacon Staff

In today’s environment of social media and fast fashion, trends come and go faster than ever. But fashion isn’t the only thing that can be trendy— body types, societal attitudes, and morals all fall into line on an ever-growing list of what’s in style and what isn’t.

Recent reboots in the fashion world include 2000s footwear— think Uggs and Moon Boots— as well as low-waisted ‘90s-style jeans, the big hair of the ‘80s, and the classic ‘70s bell-bottoms.

“Vogue went as far as calling twee the put-together sister of the infamous grungy Tumblr girl of 2014— a phrase that left some readers gagging.”

These recycled trends also decide which body types are “in”— the ‘90s and 2000s favor the ultra-skinny, while the ‘70s and ‘80s cater to a curvier physique.

“Twee style,” a camp-prep hybrid popularized around 2010, is one of the many trends making a comeback. This distinct style includes shorts with tights, fit-and-flare dresses, ballet flats, cardigans and collared shirts under everything. (Think Zooey Deschanel— or any of the characters she’s played, like Jess from New Girl.) Vogue went as far as calling twee the put-together sister of the infamous grungy Tumblr girl of 2014— a phrase that left some readers gagging.

Twee became especially popular during an era of social media that equated thinness with beauty. Before it was sold to Verizon in 2017, Tumblr was a hub for a range of trends, including fashion to humor. Much of the app’s popular outfits sought-after styles were centered around a degree of beauty built on unhealthy and unattainable standards. Tumblr alone played a large role in the popularization and fetishization of extreme skinniness, often to the point of disordered eating.

Since the app’s “downfall,” former users have shared how being chronically online when being thin was so favorable affected them, with many admitting to having eating disorders or feeling extreme negativity about their weight.

Now, a new wave of social media is popularizing the same styles that negatively affected users years ago. Some of those experiencing the second wave of twee were around for the first wave— and this time, we can’t let a fashion trend impact our self-image and determine our self-worth.

It’s no secret that different clothing styles flatter different bodies. For centuries, people have used clothes to accentuate— or hide— parts of themselves. There’s no shame in wearing what looks best on you, or what makes you feel most confident. But the clothes that make you feel and look your best aren’t always the ones that become popular.

Society tends to decide what’s fashionable and what isn’t based on the model rather than the outfit. Take celebrities like Kendall Jenner or Anya Taylor-Joy, for example. Outfits that pop culture outlets and fan accounts call “effortlessly chic” or “model off-duty” might be redefined as sloppy or lazy if worn by a larger person.

Plenty of people have pointed this out, too. Several series on TikTok and YouTube beg the question, “is it a fit or is she just skinny?” In these videos, people who wear larger sizes replicate outfits deemed fashionable when worn by the ultra-skinny. Sometimes, the outfits pass the test, but more often than not, they fail.

Today’s society has begun scraping the tip of the iceberg of body positivity and fatphobia, with campaigns like body neutrality trending on social media and popping up in stores and online. But there’s a whole lot of progress left to be made, and rebooting trends that fit ultra-thin bodies best is not healthy or helpful.

A 2018 study by Racked found that 68 percent of American women wear a size 14 or above and weigh almost 170 pounds on average. This means that well over half of women in the U.S. don’t meet the beauty standards popularized in the ‘90s, 2000s, and 2010s. The study also sheds light on how a new cycle of trends, and twee in particular, could be harmful to the body positivity movement.

This generation of social media users is the youngest and most impressionable, but we also have more experience than any preced-

Courtesy Vivi Smilgius ing generation. While skinniness is still valued in society (it’s been rebranded as fitness, self-care, and diet culture), there’s another side of social media dedicated to educating users on the importance of prioritizing mental health.

It is this generation’s responsibility to change the narrative writ-

“It is this generation’s responsibility to change the narrative written by those before it— the narrative that tells us we are meant to fit clothes and not the other way around.”

ten by those before it— the narrative that tells us we are meant to fit clothes and not the other way around. It starts not just with a rejection of trends, but with an acceptance of body types and an appreciation for confidence and fashion on an objective scale.

Living Arts

Courtesy Bright Lights Instagram

Bright Lights announces spring 2022 lineup

Karissa Schaefer Beacon Staff

Bright Lights Film Series recently announced their spring-2022 lineup, returning to in-person screenings on Jan. 27 for Fanny: Right to Rock.

This season features 12 films, each premiering every Thursday at 7 p.m. until April 21. Bright Lights’ screenings are free to all Emerson members and the general public. In an effort to foster community through film, the Department of Visual and Media Arts is holding discussions with directors and Emerson faculty after viewings.

Fanny: Right to Rock (Jan. 27) — Directed by Bobbi Jo Krals, this documentary focuses on the first all-women band to release an LP with a major record label. Founded by two Filipina-American sisters joined by other teen girls, the rock group Fanny fought barriers of gender, sexuality, and race. Seemingly erased from rock music history, the band reunites 50 years later under a new record deal. Co-founder and guitarist June Millington will take part in a post-screening discussion. Lamb (Feb. 3) — A new age horror film directed by Valdimar Johansson, takes place in Iceland where a couple finds an unusual newborn in their sheep barn. When they take her in, strange things start to occur that call her back to the wilderness. The A24 film is a dark, atmospheric folktale. Emerson professor Sarah Zaidan will lead the following discussion.

The Wolf of Snow Hollow (Feb. 10) — Directed by Jim Cummings ‘09, this dramatic comedy explores the fears of a small town when dead bodies begin to appear after every full moon. While Officer Marshall deals with the stress of insomnia and caring for his family, he tries not to give in to the rumors about werewolves. A discussion with director, writer, and actor Cummings and producer Ben Wiessner ‘08 is to follow.

Bulletproof (Feb. 17) — This documentary dives into the strategies used to prevent school violence in America and its intricacies. Paralleled are the happenings of a school’s everyday life with precautionary measures taken to ensure safety. The film reflects on these events and the U.S. culture of violence. Director Todd Chandler will be taking part in the post-screening discussion.

Spencer (Feb. 24) — Starring Kristen Stewart as Princess Diana, the film directed by Pablo Larrain explores the tragic and cold relationship Diana had with Prince Charles and the royal family in the wake of Charles’ affair as well as Diana’s mental health struggles. As Christmas time comes amidst the whirlwind of rumors surrounding the affair, Diana pushes to make the festivities different this year.

Faithful (March 3) — Over the span of 20 years, director Annie Berman profiles some of the biggest fans of pop culture icons like Princess Diana, Elvis Presley, and Pope John Paul II. The film shows some of their collected and cherished pieces of memorabilia, which defines their most devoted fans. Berman’s identity becomes intermixed with the film as time goes on and a discussion with her is to follow.

Tahara (March 17) — When a former Hebrew school classmate commits suicide, two best friends, Carrie and Hannah, are given a chance to work through their grief through their faith. However, after Carrie’s world is turned inside out, the girls get distracted by teenage social status, desire, and fluctuating faith. A discussion following the screening of the drama, directed by Olivia Peace, will be led by Emerson faculty.

Inhabitants: An Indigenous Perspective (March 24) — The film follows five Native American tribes across forests, grasslands, deserts, and coasts while they restore land management traditions, which have been disrupted by centuries of colonization. These traditions are essential in today’s climate crisis. Directed by Costa Boutsikaris and Anna Palmer, the documentary sees Native communities restore ancient relationships. Post-screening discussion if applicable

C’mon C’mon (March 31) — An emotionally stunted radio journalist travels across the country to interview kids about their world perspective and concerns about the future. He is suddenly put in charge of his nephew who travels with him, shedding a new light on emotional stakes for the journalist. Directed by Mike Mills, the drama stars Joaquin Phoenix. A discussion with Emerson faculty will follow.

Golden Arm (April 7) — A baker, Melanie, starts in the comedy as she gets sucked into taking her friend Danny’s spot in an arm-wrestling competition. To win the big prize, she must compete against the reigning champion. Director Maureen Bharoocha will take part in the following discussion.

Rebel Dykes (April 14) — Directed by Harri Shanahan, the documentary focuses on a 1980s London group of women who share interests of sex, politics, and the arts. The story follows their influence around the world as activists, artists, and performers. A post-screening discussion will be facilitated by film scholar Rox Samer and historian Rachel Corbman.

Flee (April 21) — In an animated documentary, director Jonas Poher Rasmussen tells the true story of his high school friend Amin and his journey as a refugee from Afghanistan. Amin deals with a 20-year-old secret that raises tensions in his life that he created with his soon-to-be husband. Emerson professor Yasser Munif will lead the discussion.

Tickets to attend each film screening go on sale the day of the event. Follow their Instagram, @ brightlightsemerson for updates.

karissa_schaefer@emerson.edu

‘World’s Hottest Tour’ causing climate change

Shannon Garrido Beacon Staff

To all my Spanish-speaking readers who enjoy reggaeton, Bad Bunny’s Instagram announcement should have had you at the edge of your seat. Benito announced on Jan. 24 that he was going on a stadium tour starting August of this year and putting out a new album.

El Último Tour del Mundo or the World’s Hottest Tour is set to be his biggest one yet, and with five albums under his belt and one on the way, there is no telling how hot these shows will be. He sold out his arena tour with over 480,000 tickets sold, however, his popularity has since skyrocketed around the world. This announcement trended on Twitter almost immediately with distressed fans threatening to sell their homes and unborn babies, so they can attend these shows.

Prominent Latin artists rarely gain enough traction to fill stadiums all around the United States singing Spanish, so for those who don’t speak the language but enjoy the music, this is your lucky year. You don’t want to miss out on the opportunity to shake your ass to “Yo Perreo Sola” and scream at the top of your lungs to “Amorfoda.” For newer fans, not only will you get to hear club favorites like “La Canción” and “Dakiti” booming through a crowd as God intended, but you get to appreciate his upcoming music in person for the first time. DJ Alesso and Diplo will also join the Puerto Rican musician on tour for select dates, which will no doubt resonate with other fans.

As someone who has seen him twice in concert, I can say that he puts on amazing shows. There is a lot of attention to detail in audio and visual production that feels interactive to the audience. His voice has the same distinct hum that makes his music so unique and gives me the urge to scream violently. I can only imagine how insane his concert would be at Fenway Park, which is arguably a much bigger stage than the ones I saw him perform when he was more known amongst Latin American countries.

Now a Grammy award-winning artist and God knows how many other awards, there is no doubt Artwork for Bad Bunny’s latest tour. / Courtesy worldshottesttour.com

that Bad Bunny has established himself as an artist amongst the American music industry. Luckily, he has yet to abandon his roots as he continues to make music that resonates the most with his boricua fans. For anyone who lives in Latin America or amongst Latinx people, you know Bad Bunny’s music is meant to be enjoyed in a crowd of sweaty bodies with the loudest speaker possible.

Whether that means at the club, mind, voice, and dignity, mind a party, or just a few friends, Bad your business. Bunny is meant to be enjoyed in a Tickets for Bad Bunny’s community of fun, loud, and sexy World’s Hottest Tour will go on people. So, Boston residents who sale on Jan. 28 at 12 p.m. local used to sing “Sweet Caroline” time via the tour’s website and at any given concert, this is not through VividSeats. A pre-sale that kind of event. Nevertheless, will begin on Jan. 26 at 12 p.m. there is little argument that this local time. tour will be anything short of incredible—anyone at Fenway Park on Aug. 18 that sees me lose my shannon_garrido@emerson.edu