personal & political
androgynous fashion in history by julia seelig illustrations by samantha west design by jami rubin
Breaking the rules is at the core of the fashion industry. Serving as a dominant tool of personal expression, people look to art, and by extension, to fashion, as a way to both defy and conform to societal norms. Society relies on the comfort of strict labels that define what is and is not acceptable. Fashion, however, has the power to challenge that. Major movements in history—relating to politics and fashion—prove the art’s influence on both the personal and the political. Associate Professor of History at Boston University Arianne Chernock teaches a Fashion in History course about the facilitating role fashion has played in American history. Chernock said, “I think fashion has always played a complex role at a number of levels both in terms of individual identity, sexual and gender identity, class identity, ethnic identity, and power dynamics between different cultures and within them.” Major social movements and groundbreaking policy changes are accompanied by a wide range of public responses. With every proponent is an antagonist––after all, advocacy and freedom of expression are essential to democracy. So, it is no surprise that one of the most valuable methods for creating major statements is using a
54 | the buzz
paradigm of expression. Fashion’s influential role in politics cannot go unnoticed as it has been at the forefront of major historical movements. “In my course we look at the role of fashion in the American revolution; fashion in the expansion of the British empire; fashion in terms of how different colonial populations negotiate their identity,” said Chernock. “And, fashion and the making of subcultures in the 1960’s and 70s—particularly relating to queer identity.” Fashion continues to unite groups marginalized by society, and serves as a dominant force in catalyzing social and political change. However, as Chernock said, “There’s a question about whether fashion is a comment on changes that are already taking place, or whether it helps make those changes.” Arguably, both can be true just as fashion can be used to both reinforce and subvert political ideals and gender roles. Regardless, in an increasingly tense political climate, fashion is a liberating force for those who wish to have their voices heard. Fashion’s personal and political purpose is evident in the history of the LGBTQ+ communities in ’60s and ’70s, particularly drag culture. This was, in part, a response to the oppressive gendering of fashion, which still continues in many places today.
Designers and industry leaders look to a host of places for inspiration including subcultures. The marginalized LGBTQ+ groups of the ’60s and ’70s may have cultivated change with experimentational styles that defied gender norms, but the momentum of the gay rights movement also contributed to changes in the fashion industry. Today, the idea of gender continues to be at the forefront of public conversation. Specifically, movements in the transgender community have challenged society to reevaluate the rigid definition of the gender binary. Fashion’s response to this movement has been clear and powerful—androgyny dominated runway shows this past year. Vogue dedicated the August 2017 issue to exploring this changing perspective and the significance of androgyny. In the article, “Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik Are Part of a New Generation Who Don’t See Fashion as Gendered,” Vogue contributor Maya Singer suggests that the recent revival of androgyny relates directly to the way millennials see gender in more arbitrary terms. “For these millennials, at least, descriptives like boy or girl rank pretty low on the list of important qualities—and the way they dress reflects that,” said Singer. While some may credit designers like Louis
