Girl (in) Power

Women run Boston’s food industry. This is not to say that there are no men in food, or that the restaurants led by women outnumber those operated by men. Rather, many of Boston’s top restaurants are owned or run by women. Moreover, these women are household names because of the projects they have undertaken— not something the food industry often sees.

The sheer number of women who have found success in Boston’s food industry speaks to the city’s ability to recognize talent within a typically male industry. In Boston, women are not excluded from culinary conversations—they are sought out for them. Nor are they invited to discuss how their successes go against the grain, as if success was meant only for a select group of straight, white males.

Boston does not seem to agree with this traditional image of the culinary workforce, and the local media does better than most to call merit-based attention to female chefs. Women are not constrained to pastry on Boston “best” lists. They are also not segregated into “female-only” rankings, which inherently imply male as superior.

In the last five years, Boston Magazine has named a woman “Best Up-and-Coming Chef” three times (Kristen Kish in 2013, Cassie Piuma in 2014 and Karen Akunowicz in 2016). In addition, Best Chef, General Excellence went to Tiger Mama and Sweet Cheeks’ Tiffany Faison in 2016. The magazine has also awarded women with the accolade of “Best Sommelier” for the last three years in a row.

The city has a robust history of supporting the careers of female chefs. In 1963, WGBH studios produced one of the first TV cooking shows, “The French Chef,” featuring a boisterous and fun chef named Julia Child. Child was an advocate for Boston’s food scene long before it truly existed and set the groundwork that would elevate Boston restaurants to today’s caliber.

Since Child, what can only be described as mini, female-operated empires have permeated the industry. In 2008, Ana Sortun followed up the success of her first venture, Oleana, by opening Sofra Bakery with business partner and head pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick. Then, in 2013, along with Chef de Cuisine Cassie Piuma, Sortun rounded out Oleana Restaurant Group with Sarma. In all three businesses, women hold the executive positions.

Despite starting her career at Biba, the most acclaimed of Chef Lydia Shire’s six Boston restaurants, Joanne Chang had no intention of becoming Boston’s reigning queen of baking.

Less than 20 years later, Chang’s Flour bakeries have expanded to seven locations, and her restaurant Myers + Chang is a treasured South End institution.

Perhaps the city’s most well-known woman in food is Barbara Lynch, a veritable Boston hero. The Barbara Lynch Gruppo operates seven different establishments, all considered part of the upper echelon of Boston dining. Lynch was the second woman ever to be awarded the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurateur, inviting foodies to pay more attention to the Northeast.

On a national scale, women still occupy a lower percentage of executive culinary positions. But here in Boston, their successes have been normalized. Many chefs, like Myers + Chang’s head Karen Akunowicz, enter the industry fully conscious of the success available to them.

“When it’s normal,” said Akunowicz, “it’s not out of the ordinary that you [think you] would be able to do it. I think that’s more powerful than anything else.”

For Akunowicz, having successful women in the industry is an affirmation that success is available to men and women alike. Katrina Jazayeri, co-owner of Juliet in Somerville, said she did not have to look far to find role models. The big names in Boston helped Jazayeri visualize what her career could look like.

But it is not only that Boston’s female chefs are better representing the culinary workforce; they are also revolutionizing the way the industry is progressing. Boston has fostered a community in which women are thriving, and at its core is mentorship. There is a female-led network of support that rejects competition in favor of wider community growth.

Irene Li, co-owner and head chef of sibling-owned Mei Mei, puts women as the guardians of this system.

“Women are more likely to be effective hirers and mentors for other women,” said Li. “I think [female success] has the potential to interrupt the stereotypically macho culture of kitchens, which can be really destructive.”

Akunowicz said this community of women has made her stronger.

From Julia Child to Lydia Shire, Jody Adams to Kristen Kish, this support system has trained students who eventually opened restaurants where they could teach and be in charge. Many of Boston’s top chefs, both male and female, have trained with or under female leadership.

In the restaurant world, where everyone is connected, the success of one is the success of the other. By promoting female achievements, Boston’s culinary world is ultimately advancing the whole industry.

And the industry is reciprocating.

Though it was through women that Jazayeri came to understand the inner workings of Boston’s culinary scene, she credits women and men with providing guidance when developing Juliet.

While it may not be a gender-specific imperative for Jazayeri, she does believe having thoughtful business owners focused on mentoring, inspiring and nurturing makes the industry stronger and more inclusive.

“I learned from J.J. and my sister the personal relationships that feed the community,” said Jazayeri. “I’m happy to mentor and create those opportunities for others.”

Chef Irene Li is of the same mind.

“In my kitchen, I make sure gender stereotypes aren’t an issue,” Li said. “I want everyone, especially minorities and POCs, to feel like they have a place.”

Li has instilled this sense of community into all projects with which Mei Mei is involved.

“I’m constantly thinking of ways we can get more women and women of color involved,” said Li.

One way women are making the industry more inclusive is by erasing practices that affect minorities. “Open Book Management” is a business model that helps restaurant owners include employees in administrative decisions, resulting in a workforce invested in mutual success. Jazayeri is one of the lead signatories on the ballot measure. Li plans to roll out the program for Mei Mei soon.

In Boston, the idea is not to make separate spaces for women to succeed. Instead, restaurants promote work cultures that all employees benefit from. Boston’s successful female chefs and restaurateurs represent an industry that is willing to recognize, nurture and protect all stakeholders.

It is easy to look at Boston and assume the work is over. Women are faring well among an ever-evolving restaurant scene. Yet there is always more to be done. The willingness to have tough conversations regarding gender stereotypes and other inequalities is an attitude Boston can model for other cities. Boston has shown that behind great restaurants there can be a woman influencing the culinary industry, one pan flip at a time.

By Alexlyn Dundas | Photography by Lauren Fogelström | Design by Jami Rubin