FOR THE
LONG HAUL A GUIDE TO DRESSING SUSTAINABLY BY JAZMYNE JACKSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOUR ABDUL HADI HARB NASSER DESIGN BY IVAN ALEKASANDROV
I
t’s typical for the average American fashionista to have a closet full of rarely worn clothing––sometimes never worn. We pick our favorite items, wear them over and over again and shove our other options into dark closet corners. Americans are purchasing more clothes than ever before––and at alarming rates. Whether it’s because we desire to “Keep up with the Joneses” or simply because we like stuff, it is important to recognize the environmental consequences of this habit. The Council for Textile Recycling reports that Americans recycle or donate only 15 percent of their used clothes. That means the remaining 85 percent end up in landfills. In fact, 10.5 million tons of clothes end up in landfills annually. Once a landfill is at maximum capacity, a new one is created, causing a continuous buildup of trash, air pollution and ground-water pollution. Although clothing is not the only thing we are adding to landfills, it is a portion of the waste we have control over. If it isn’t the environmental impacts of overconsumption that draw your concern, let it be the working conditions of factory workers for fast-fashion brands. Brands such as Forever
58 | fashion
21 and GAP hire low-wage workers in poorer countries to create their lines. The documentary The True Cost highlights the problem of an industry where new styles and trends are produced weekly rather than seasonally. Many of the employees making the clothes work arduous hours in poor conditions and make less than $5 a day. These are the working conditions of textile factory employees in Bangladesh, a leading clothing exporter to the United States. In 2012, there was a fire in a sweatshop in Bangladesh, killing over 100 people. In 2013, a different sweatshop in Bangladesh collapsed––though workers had complained about cracks in the walls. Workers in such conditions produce clothing found in many American retail stores. And because these clothes are so cheap to make, they are cheap to sell. For instance, Forever 21 can sell clothes at an $11 price point because the clothing itself is produced for significantly less money. This fast-fashion tactic amplifies the issue of overconsumption because of these affordable price points. After all, good shoppers always look for the best deals. It’s easy to buy an excess of clothes that are well-priced––people do it often. Then, when those clothes rip or go out of style in
a month or two, the consumers are left to decide what to do with them. “Overconsumption of clothing is a huge drain on the environment, as there is a heavy process and a lot of poor laborers that rely on pennies a day to make our clothes,” said Sanjin Ibrahimovic, activist and member of The People’s Lobby. “If we can cut down how much we are contributing that exploitative process, it is beneficial.” However, the well-known companies to which we donate our clothes are not always ethical. The Salvation Army has a history of discriminatory behavior towards the LGBTQ+ community. The organization uses its religious founding as a basis for its prejudice. Goodwill is not biased, but the organization sells the clothing they receive. That means they are making 100 percent profit off of the selfless donations of their clients. This could also mean participants are funding the CEO’s $850,000 per year salary. “The most ethical way to get rid of clothes, in my opinion, is to not have to,” said Ibrahimovic. However, Ibrahimovic understands that it is nearly impossible to not get rid of any clothes, so he suggested alternatives. Together, we came up with a researched list of effective clothing disposal.
