COOKING FOR CHAPS

I think many people are too scared to cook a soufflé. It’s either the fear of the sudden drop or the lack of rise, but as long as you keep the air in when adding the egg whites, you will get the prefect rise every time.

Food

Don’t be scared of making a soufflé, says Nicole Drysdale, also providing further recipes for the perfect social occasion

Feel free to share your creations with Nicole on Instagram @nicolethechap

When thinking about a dinner party, I always think about the guests attending and plan the menu around them. Obviously dinner parties seem so very much in our past at the moment but they are still very much in our future and I’m looking forward to having a table full of people soon.

Sometimes I do a couple of different curries/ rice/onion bhajis or a stand-up style starter and something simple like homemade pizza and delicious salads. Sometimes dessert can even be the most divine chocolates or homemade biscotti served with Vin Santo (one of my favourites). For this particular dinner party, however, I am delving into my grandmother’s recipe books and doing it very properly. Small servings, so no-one overeats and becomes too tired for the baccarat table. Despite using my Scottish grandmother’s recipes, this menu plan has a very French feel to it, which heavily influenced fine dining in country houses in the 1930s. I personally also have a huge love of French cuisine, as I was a chalet girl in the Alps (Chamonix) for two years in my early twenties. My love of French cuisine continues to this day and I still have a tendency to use too much butter.

I pulled the soufflé recipe out of my grandmother’s recipe book because I think many people are too scared to cook one. It’s either the fear of the sudden drop or the lack of rise, but as long as you keep the air in when adding the egg whites, you will get the prefect rise. And resist all desire to open the oven door, ie treat soufflés the same as you would Yorkshire puddings or meringues. And, most importantly, have your guests already seated before you remove them from the oven, as they will drop very quickly. I’ve played with the recipe slightly and used different cheeses, to reflect my time in the Alps and give the soufflés a stronger flavour. The dusting of breadcrumbs inside the ramekins is also very important, as you will get a better rise if the soufflés have something to stick to as they climb their way up. Follow the recipe step by step and I can assure you that your guests will be impressed. Once you’re confident with the cheese soufflé, why not try different flavours? Blue cheese and thyme, goat’s cheese, butternut squash or spinach, or for a sweet treat, chocolate or pear and salted caramel.

The rest of the menu is straightforward. Just be careful not to burn the Beurre Noisette. Plan ahead and make the hollandaise and Cranachan earlier in the day. If any of your guests don’t eat fish, it could be replaced with a breaded chicken fillet. Flatten the chicken fillet with a rolling pin, then dust in flour, egg wash and coat in breadcrumbs. Add some grated parmesan and fresh thyme while making the breadcrumbs for extra flavour. This is a firm favourite in my house.

Prep Time: 15-20 Minutes Cooking Time: 15 Minutes

Ingredients 40g Plain flour 40g Butter, plus extra for greasing 25g White breadcrumbs 300ml Full fat milk 4 Large eggs 100g Gruyere cheese, finely grated 50g Comte cheese, finely grated Salt and pepper

Method 1. Boil the kettle and pre-heat the oven to 200c. 2. Melt 10g of butter and brush the ramekins, then coat with the breadcrumbs. Place these in the fridge. 3. Melt the 40g of butter in a pan and stir in the flour. Once combined, gradually whisk in the milk until lump free.

Bring to the boil then simmer for 5 minutes, stirring regularly until you have a smooth pourable mixture.

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and allow to cool slightly. Season. 4. Fill a large roasting tray half way to the top with the boiling water and place in the pre-heated oven. 5. Separate the eggs and put the whites in a large bowl. Whisk the egg whites until stiff. Add a pinch of salt. 6. Stir the comte and most of the gruyere into the white sauce mixture until smooth and, one by one, add the egg yolks. 7. Stir a couple of spoons of the egg whites into the mixture until combined, then carefully fold in the rest of the egg whites. Be careful not to blow out the air. You want the mixture to be light and fluffy. 8. Remove the ramekins from the fridge and spoon in the mixture, filling them up to the top. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top and place in the roasting tray. Bake for about 12-15 minutes until a lovely golden colour and well risen. Try and resist opening the oven door. Serve immediately with some fresh bread and a green salad (optional).

Hollandaise Sauce

Cooking Time: 20 Minutes, plus cooling time.

Ingredients 2 Large egg yolks 150g butter 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1/2 lemon Pinch salt

Method 1. Set up a Bain Marie by half filling a large saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Place a heatproof mixing bowl on top, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. 2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, then remove from the heat. 3. Reduce the heat of the Bain Marie to minimal and place the egg yolks in the bowl and whisk. Add the vinegar and continue whisking.

Gradually whisk in the melted butter and you should very quickly end up with a lovely smooth sauce. 4. Remove from the heat, season and add a squeeze of lemon juice to loosen. Place in a small serving bowl and allow to cool.

Serves 4

Prep Time: 10 Minutes Cooking Time: 30 Minutes

Ingredients 4 White fish fillets (lemon sole works well) 500g Baby potatoes Couple of handfuls of rocket 3 Large tomatoes Dusting of plain flour 125g Butter Drizzle of olive oil Salt and pepper 1 Lemon

Method 1. Slice the tomatoes and place on a plate. Drizzle with olive oil and a sprinkling of salt. Set to the side. 2. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the potatoes, cutting the larger ones in half. Reduce the heat and cook until tender. 3. Meanwhile, prepare the fish by lightly dusting each fillet in the flour, shaking off any excess. Heat a tbsp of butter in a large frying pan and add the fish fillets. Turn after a couple of minutes, keeping a close eye on them, as they will only take 5-7 minutes until cooked. Once cooked, place the fish fillets on a plate and cover with foil. 4. Place the empty frying pan back on the heat and add the butter. You want to cook the butter until golden brown (being careful not to let it burn). This will only take a couple of minutes. Remove from the heat, season and add a squeeze of lemon juice. 5. Drain the potatoes. Dish up each plate with a fish fillet, some potatoes, a handful of rocket and some sliced tomatoes. Drizzle over the Beurre Noisette (it’s very rich, so use sparingly). Serve the hollandaise sauce on the side.

Cranachan

Serves 4

Prep Time: 10 Minutes Cooking Time: 5 Minutes

Ingredients 1 pint double cream 100g Porridge oats Dash of whisky (or whiskey) Drizzle of honey 1lb raspberries

Method 1. Heat a large frying pan and toast the porridge oats until lightly browned. 2. Whisk the double cream until thick. 3. Slightly crush most of the raspberries, keeping a couple back for decoration. 4. Stir the crushed raspberries, whiskey and most of the oats through the cream. Divide the mixture into your serving bowls. Top with the remaining raspberries and oats and add a drizzle of honey to each.