MALLOCH’S KNITWEAR

Sartorial

CHUNKY KNITS

Liam Jefferies on a knitwear brand that makes chunky sweaters and lambswool jumpers built to last the test of time www.mallochs.co.uk

Autumn is that most seasonal of seasons here in Blighty. Folded away are the cheesecloth, seersucker and (for the brave) patchwork Madras garments of those bygone Summer months, and so too are the pieces from the lighter end of the knitwear spectrum – Sea Island cotton and the like. When faced with the changing of the seasons, abrupt though it may be, one looks to the indefatigable woollen layers to keep out the first throes of Winter. If, like in the experience of this humble columnist, the innumerable hours spent indoors and indeed couch supine have rendered the woollens in your possession a tad on the snug side, fear not, as a knitwear brand has taken up the call to provide timeless sartorial staples using the best in heritage manufacturing: Malloch’s.

“The designs consist of timeless wardrobe staples across knitwear and accessories, with an indefinite attention to detail and quality, inspired by a blend of the polished and classical style of mid-Century Hollywood royalty to the humble working peoples of town, country and coastline”

Malloch’s is the brainchild of graphic designer and art director Chris Chasseaud. With a background working in the fashion industry, Chris was able to connect with a plethora of British manufacturers, and has since championed the talent and rich heritage of local makers, utilising factories in Hawick, Scotland, Yorkshire, Leicester and London, accumulating hundreds of years of experience.

The designs consist of timeless wardrobe staples across knitwear and accessories, with an indefinite attention to detail and quality, inspired by a blend of the polished and classical style of midCentury Hollywood royalty to the humble working peoples of town, country and coastline. It is in this particular focus on functionality and traditional styling that lends a trustworthiness to the range, not fashion-led, but reliably lasting pieces that embed themselves into a capsule wardrobe with aplomb.

Being a staple item, knitwear is worth investing in. While a frivolously fringed suede jacket may be en vogue at its time of purchase, a good knit is rarely met with such abject horror 6-12 months down the line. A chunky knit in a crew- or roll-neck will loyally serve for years, if not decades; even one of Malloch’s’ fine lambswool jumpers, given the same care and attention, could stay the course for so long.

It is because of the longevity and quality of their wares that Malloch’s need not rely on loud prints or designs. The fit, texture and substance of some of the finest wools in the world make a Malloch’s sweater stand out to those in the know.

One such wool used by Malloch’s for their scarves is Escorial, a type of wool obtained from the Escorial flock, named for the Escorial palace near Madrid built by King Philip II of Spain in the 16th Century, a unique species of sheep originating from the Mahgreb in North Africa.

Today, descendants of that same flock are found only in the southern grasslands of Australia and New Zealand, where a small group care for the

endangered breed, while sustainably providing a wool that is not only ecologically sound, but also supple and luxurious enough to create a perfect drape and handle. A sustainable ‘slow’ method of production much in the same vein as the cork industry for wine bottles.

Elsewhere in the Malloch’s range are fine lambswool pieces knitted at a tight tension on special frames, for a lightness that belies their warmth and sturdy nature. Produced in small batches in 2-ply wool from pedigree sheep, they provide the ideal perennial layering staple.

The Chap’s favourite piece amongst Malloch’s wealth of products is the Newman Roll Neck, manufactured in Howick on the Scottish Borders from a 6-ply pure lambswool spun by Z. Hinchliffe & Sons of Yorkshire and renowned around the globe since 1766. With a slightly oversized fit, akin to the kind worn by Mallory, Shackleton, et al, the single cuff provides ample rolling when worn casually, with set in shoulders allowing the piece to be as adaptable to tailoring as under, say, a Norfolk jacket or whatever passes for mountainwear on Everest these days.

A colourway not oft seen in knits, the seaweed is a blend of deep greens, and a subdued navy in a marl with more depth than the aquatic reaches for which it is named. It is easy to spot that not only are the cuts directly influenced by utilitarian workwear, but so too are the hues inspired by the natural world. It is said that Scottish water is what gives the country’s knitwear its superlatively soft handle. Whether this is a factor cannot be proved; however, with generations of experience utilised in the Hawick Mills dating back over hundreds of years, one thing is for certain: Malloch’s wares are timeless luxury that can truly be said to last the test of time. n

@sartorialchap