GREY FOX COLUMN

Style Column

David Evans gallops through detachable collars, British watches, shantung ties, travel luggage and Bond headwear www.greyfoxblog.com

What a relief at last to be able to attend events where we can dress up properly and shed the lockdown grunge that has eclipsed style over the last two years or more! My son and daughterin-law, married in late 2020 with a total of 14 people during the restrictions of lockdown, had the chance to celebrate properly earlier this year. The day was superb: blue skies, a magical venue, an honour guard from The Welsh Guards and a large room full of stylishly dressed guests.

I dusted off my morning dress, unworn since my daughter’s wedding and a visit to the Derby some years ago. I wore a shirt from Budd Shirtmakers with a stiff collar to add to the formality of the occasion (I hadn’t worn a detachable collar since schooldays over 50 years ago). I probably felt almost as uncomfortable as the Guardsmen in their thick red woollen tunics and highly polished heavy boots, but it felt wonderful.

The pleasure of making an effort is nothing to do with vanity. Looking good equates with feeling

Shantung ties, the striped alternative to club ties New watches from Fears and Bremont

“I wanted a Shantung silk tie to wear at the marriage celebration. Shantung is a gorgeously slubby silk that adds interest to a tie. I tend to avoid striped ties, as they look too school or regimental for my taste, but when made out of this highly textured silk they are unlikely to be mistaken for such”

good, respect for others and indeed for ourselves. The psychological benefits of dressing well have scientific support, although those of us who enjoy dressing up don’t need science to tell us what we experience when we don our glad rags. Sometimes we forget that it’s small things like this that bring us pleasure – so needed in a world gone increasingly mad, with politicians and world leaders at the forefront of making life miserable for everyone.

TIMELY TIMEPIECES

This year saw the coincidence, almost in the same week, of collaborations between four British watchmaking brands. England was, many years ago, the centre of the watchmaking industry in Europe. British watchmakers have been responsible for much of the technology that now powers our watches – think of Harrison, who designed the first successful marine chronometer, for example. The industry is slowly being restored by brands such as those mentioned below.

The watch from Fears Watches and Garrick is 42mm in diameter, made at Garrick’s workshop in the UK and only available through Fears. It uses the Garrick UT-G04 movement with power reserve indicator: It’s hand wound and regulated to within 5 seconds a day. The hands are the usual Fears skeleton design and the watch marries the key elements of both watch brands very well. I’ve seen and worn timepieces from both Fears and Garrick and they are made to the highest specifications and quality.

The watch from Bremont and Bamford is a different animal; very contemporary in appearance with its black DLC-treated case. The S500 sports

bright blue indices that jump out against the dark layered dial, making this a practical yet stylish timepiece. The watch is chronometer rated, with enhanced shock proofing and water resistant to 500m. On the wrist it’s comfortable with not too much bulk. This is a timepiece that likes to be noticed.

Incidentally, Bremont have produced a handsome chronometer that I would love to have on my wrist if budget allowed. The Bremont WR22 is designed in collaboration with Williams Racing, made in their workshops in Henley and with a distinctly handsome, racy appearance. It comes on a bracelet, but I think looks best on the black Alcantara strap. It also comes with a Williams Racing car wheel nut!

SHANTUNG STRIPES

I wanted a Shantung silk tie to wear at the marriage celebration mentioned above. Shantung is a gorgeously slubby silk that adds interest to a tie. I tend to avoid striped ties, as they look too school or regimental for my taste, but when made out of this highly textured silk they are unlikely to be mistaken for such. I found mine at Rampley & Co, who also supply gorgeous pocket squares and have recently branched out into clothing. If you’re travelling this summer, there are a couple of pieces of British-made luggage that I’d like to recommend. Globetrotter makes wonderfully stylish cases with a strong hint of nostalgia. Their Dr No collection has a gorgeous dark blue wheeled carry-on case that will make you the envy of the other passengers. From Bennett Winch comes a suit carrier holdall that combines a soft bag and suit carrier – the ultimate travel companion for the sartorial traveller. Finally, the Hatbag (left) provides a solution to the age-old problem of how to transport headwear across continents without one’s fedora or trilby reaching the destination a mis-shapen mess.

BOND HATS

Finally, continuing the James Bond theme, Lock Hatters’ new collection celebrates 60 years since the first Bond film, Dr No. Throughout this year they are releasing hats based on those worn in the films. Among the first is the Auric cap (pictured below), handmade from russet Escorial wool to match the rust-coloured tweed golfing suit, with baggy plus fours and oversize soft yellow cardigan, worn by arch-villain Auric Goldfinger.

As Matt Spaiser observes on bondsuits.com, Goldfinger’s suit closely follows Fleming’s description in the 1958 book: “Everything matched in a blaze of rust-coloured tweed, from the buttoned ‘golfer’s cap’ centred on the huge, flaming red hair, to the brilliantly polished, almost orange shoes. The plus-four suit was too well cut and the plus-fours themselves had been pressed down the sides…” Clearly Goldfinger’s style was by no means comme il faut, but then one would expect such lapses of taste from a villain.

Links:

lockhatters.com

bremont.com bamfordwatchdepartment.com fearswatches.com garrick.co.uk rampleyandco.com buddshirts.co.uk hatbag.com

MASTERS OF STYLE

Over the next few columns I want to introduce you to some Masters of Style, whose taste and sartorial skills offer inspiration to those of us less confident. These first appeared in a slightly different format on greyfoxblog.com. I’ll start with Shaun Gordon, one of the most naturally stylish men I know.

© Rikesh Chauhan Rkzuk

GREY FOX: Please introduce yourself. Where are you based and what do you do? SHAUN GORDON: My name is Shaun Gordon, I am a London based multi-product menswear designer. Until recently I handcrafted neckties and fine accessories but am now moving on to other things.

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life, past and present. SG: My Grandfather will always be the foundation of my style. It’s the philosophy of dressing well always, as you never know who you could meet, and now I have grown to believe it to be fundamentally about self respect. I am inspired by many things and to name a few: Sidney Poitier, for the way he wore his clothes that reflected his personality, and it shone through in the films. Early Miles Davis, although I appreciate the way his style transitioned through time and was in sync with his music. David Hockney; I love the way he uses colour within the subject’s style. Another artist who’s a personal favourite is Jack Vettriano; it’s beautiful to see the way he paints the drape of clothing. Cary Grant, the beautiful form of tailoring worn with that classical gentleman’s panache… there’s simply too many more to name.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how? SG: I am unsure if developing is the right word, perhaps evolving, in the sense that, as our perspective and needs change, we experience and appreciate clothes in a different way. And I think it is a beautiful explorational journey. My style has developed from being strictly vintage, which tends to be sharp tailored pieces, to becoming more modern, with a refined and softer silhouette.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style? SG: A sincere curiosity (if you can call that a skill) and actually wearing the clothes I had in mind. Not just looking. Once you’ve learnt what there is to know, you have to take the plunge and try things out, otherwise how will you know if it suits you? Not just in how it appears but also how it makes you feel, because that will inevitably affect your appearance anyway. Also, as a menswear designer I have developed a sharp eye for detail, and I believe this is a skill that has helped me in my search for style.

Luxury capmakers and handweavers

Summer-weight linen caps now in stock