Around the Table

By Charlotte Rouchouze

It has been quite a few years since my last trip to Israel, and I know that the food culture there has exploded into a rich tapestry of European and Middle Eastern influences. In fact, the Israeli food content creators on Instagram are some of the best accounts I follow. But there is one very simple dish I saw recently on one of these accounts that I definitely do remember eating even all those years ago, and that is schnitzel. It reminded me of how much I love those thin, fried chicken breasts, and I promptly invited my friends for an Israeli-style schnitzel Shabbat dinner. Along with Israeli salad, lemony cabbage slaw, spicy bright green schug, and tahini dressing, it’s a dinner I will be making again. I did ask myself why schnitzel is so popular in Israel, and the answer I found is fairly simple. European Jews had long known of the veal or pork-based versions popular in Eastern and Central Europe, and when many of them immigrated to Israel (or British Mandate Palestine in earlier years), they brought a kosher version with them. Their chicken schnitzel was adapted into a cheap, simple dish that can be made without an oven, an amenity that many did not have in the earlier part of the twentieth century. Schnitzel also has the advantage of being kid-friendly and perfectly adaptable to different flavors and sides.

The traditional way of preparing schnitzel is to dredge first in flour, then in beaten egg, and finally in seasoned breadcrumbs, and then fry in oil. This technique is a winner, but I have long been interested in creating the perfect oven-fried chicken recipe. I have tried many and have always found the results to be lackluster, always looking better than they tasted. I decided that the key was to find a way to insert a bit of oiliness into the coating, thus allowing the crumbs to bubble and crisp up in the oil, similar to how they would in a frying pan. To do this, I use a combination of mayonnaise and buttery crumbs instead of breadcrumbs. I have devised a recipe that I think is a home run and it can be adapted to incorporate any spices you like. If you keep kosher and you can't find parve Ritz-style crackers, the crackers can be subbed with a parve alternative such as plain breadcrumbs. You can even use fish instead of chicken. The one piece of equipment you will need is a cooling rack that fits onto your baking sheet, which will allow air to circulate under the chicken.

Charlotte Rouchouze, PhD is a local French teacher, food blogger, and beaded jewelry designer. Her blog about food traditions from around the world can be found at www.thechildrenstable.com. Contact her at charlotte.rouchouze@yahoo. com.

Oven-Fried Schnitzel

Serves 4-5

Equipment: Steel grid cooling rack that fits into your baking sheet

Note: sesame seeds can be purchased in bulk at any Indian market or at Super G

- 2 lb chicken breast, pounded thin (about 1/8 inch)

- 3/4 cup full-fat mayonnaise

- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

- ½ tsp each salt, pepper, garlic powder or other desired seasonings

- 2 sleeves crushed buttery crackers such as Ritz

- ½ cup sesame seeds (optional)

- Nonstick spray

In a mixing bowl, add the mayo, olive oil, seasonings and 3 tbsp water to thin out the mixture. Add the chicken, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or up to 6 hours. When ready to prepare the schnitzel, preheat the oven to 425. Line a large cookie sheet with tin foil and then place the rack on the sheet. Spray the rack generously with nonstick spray. Next, pound the crackers in a large plastic bag with a rolling pin until evenly crushed. Add the sesame seeds (and any other seasonings or spices of your choice). Sprinkle a generous amount of the mixture on a plate and then dredge the chicken, one piece at a time, in the crumbs. Sprinkle more on top and press in. Each piece should be well coated. Place on the rack and bake for about 20-40 minutes until well browned, depending on the thickness of your chicken. Optional: flip once during baking for extra browning on both sides. Note that when flipping or removing the breasts, handle gently in order to avoid pulling off the coating. Serve warm with the condiments of your choice.