Fabrics that Go with the Flow

How we build better waders.

Words by Will Cockrell

At Patagonia, we’re fortunate to work with the world’s most advanced textiles, but we’re also determined to limit their impact on the environment. Sometimes that’s incredibly difficult; some of the top technical fabrics are derived from petroleum, and it’s taken considerable time and effort to replace them with recycled ones that perform just as well. Other times, though, targeting a toxic or energy-intensive material leads to a breakthrough—and that’s just what happened when we questioned the need for a Teflon ™ layer in our fly fishing waders. Looking for a Teflon alternative led us to a 4-layer construction that meets our industry-leading H 2 No ® Performance Standard for waterproofness and durability while improving mobility and comfort.

“The objective is always to build the best damn fabric we can dream up,” says Patagonia Senior Material Developer Pasha Whitmire. “And our waders actually make me feel more like an artist than a material designer—it’s my favorite product to work on because I know they’ll be challenged constantly and because we’ve been able to realize significant improvements. For instance, after we gave our ambassadors and field testers our prototype packable waders, they were blown away. They said they were the lightest they’ve ever worn.”

As anglers, we understand the unique demands of fly fishing and that a historic trade-off for waders has been strength versus mobility. The sturdier they were, the less agile you were. One of the first things you’ll notice about Patagonia’s waders is that they’re not chunky. That’s by design. Stiffer fabrics can crease, rub and wear in a way that creates vulnerable abrasion points, not to mention chafing. “Unnecessarily beefy wader fabrics can actually come under stress because of their rigidity,” explains Whitmire.

Eliminating Teflon didn’t just reduce rigidity. Happily, it also increased durability and comfort. Our waders are engineered using a densely woven polyester microfiber, along with two membrane layers and a DWR (durable water repellent) finish. With this 4-layer construction, we’ve been able to drive innovation in each model—whether for the gracefully minimalist Middle Forks, which use a fabric that’s lighter than anything we’ve ever used in waders before, or in our sturdy Rio Gallegos, which have a stronger face fabric to withstand even the most brutal bushwhacks.

Some of our multisport customers will note that we’ve applied the H 2 No standard to 2-, 2.5- and 3-layer fabrics in our technical jackets, especially for rain, ski and snowboard shells. To earn the H 2 No Performance Standard, a fabric must pass rigorous testing, including a 24-hour “Killer Wash.” This is Patagonia’s wet flex and abrasion test that simulates years of use in water-logged conditions. Next, we subject it to snag, puncture and water-bead tests before forcing water through the fabric to assess waterproofness. We test for breathability by measuring its Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate (MVTR). The majority of fabrics do not pass all the tests. Our 4-layer wader fabric did.

We appreciate the fine line waders must walk, creating the ultimate barrier between you and the water, while allowing the freedom that leads to improvisation and exhilaration—times when you’re focused on anything but what you’re wearing. “We sought to build a fabric that flowed with you in the water,” explains Whitmire. “That’s something you appreciate immersed in the river and immersed in these beautiful places—I think we found that sweet spot.”