7 minute read
A sip of New Orleans
The Roosevelt Hotel is home to New Orleans' most famous cocktail – the Sazerac
This Louisiana city is the spiritual home of the cocktail, where countless classics were born. Phil Huckle shares their stories
The population of New Orleans is 376,971, according to the 2022 US census. The contrast with New York (8.9 million) and London (9.3 million) is stark. I mention the difference in population size as all three cities have an influential drinks and cocktail culture, but it’s New Orleans that punches above its weight: The annual ‘Oscars of the drinks industry’ – Tales of the Cocktail – is held here, and it is home to the Museum of the American Cocktail.
Steeped in history, it was founded by France as La Nouvelle-Orléans in 1718; ceded to the Spanish in 1769; briefly returned to France, and then bought by the United States from the French First Republic in 1803 in the Louisiana Purchase. It has survived more than its share of disasters, including war, famine, disease, crime and Hurricane Katrina. Yet its people always overcome their challenges, which is what makes New Orleans so special. I worked there as a bartender for four years and can honestly say it is my favourite place in the world. Here are the bars and drinks that I return to time and again.
The Sazerac
In the 1830s, from his pharmacy in the French Quarter, Antoine Peychaud dispensed herbal bitters as a remedy for a host of ailments. One concoction involved mixing bitters, water, sugar, and French Brandy, which he served in a small egg-cup-shaped glass called a coquetier. Before long, numerous coffee houses around the city began serving this remedy and the Sazerac was born. Absinthe was added at a later date and
SAY BOO TO A GHOST
New Orleans is as famous for its food; music; architecture; history; festivals; graveyards; voodoo; vampires and ghosts as it is for its cocktails. Its supernatural activity can partly be explained by the fact that most of the city is below sea level: It's an island, with Lake Pontchartrain to the north, the Mississippi River to the east and south, and swamplands to the west. A series of levees and pumping systems prevents the city from flooding, but bodies have to be buried above ground in mausoleums, because if they were buried in the ground they would eventually float to the surface. Some of the famous graveyards resemble small villages (St. Louis Cemetery No.1 is the most famous, home to voodoo priestess Marie Laveau’s tomb among many others), and with more than four million people buried in the tombs, the dead outnumber the living by 10-1. Unsurprisingly, the city is very haunted.
The Vieux Carré, another classic New Orleans cocktail. Below: The famous St. Louis Cemetery No. 1
its evolution was nearly complete. When the American Civil War led to problems sourcing French brandy and the phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s led to it running out, it was replaced with American rye whiskey.
The Sazerac Bar in The Roosevelt Hotel is the perfect place to sip the city’s most famous cocktail today, while history buffs will enjoy The Sazerac Coffee House and Sazerac House too. Sazerac Bar, The Roosevelt Hotel, 130 Roosevelt Way therooseveltneworleans.com
The Ramos Gin Fizz
The Roosevelt Hotel can lay claim to two of the great classics: After polishing off your Sazerac, switch to the Ramos Gin Fizz. Legendary bartender Henry Charles Ramos’s famous bar, the Stag Saloon, has long been demolished but he sold his secret recipe to the Roosevelt and they have been doing a good job of making it
ever since. Also known as the New Orleans Fizz, the Ramos Ginn Fizz was created in 1888 as a blend of gin; lime or lemon juice; egg white; sugar; cream; orange flower water, and soda water. During one Mardi Gras, Henry Ramos had to employ 30 ‘shaker boys’ in his bar to keep up with demand for his Gin Fizz. Sazerac Bar, The Roosevelt Hotel, as before
The Vieux Carré
This is my favourite New Orleans cocktail, created at the Carousel Bar & Lounge in the Monteleone Hotel. It translates to ‘Old Quarter’ and is a mix of rye whiskey, cognac and vermouth. The bar is absolutely stunning and a must-see, and I would also recommend staying at the hotel – which I should mention is also famous for being haunted! See box above. Carousel Bar & Lounge at Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal Street hotelmonteleone.com
The Grasshopper
This sweet, mint-flavoured after-dinner drink was invented in 1918 at Tujague’s Restaurant by its owner, Philip Guichet. Containing crème de menthe, crème de cacao, and cream, the cocktail was incredibly popular in the Deep South during the 1950s and 60s, but has since faded in popularity. The bar at Tujague’s certainly deserves a visit – not only for the Grasshopper but for the authentic
Brennan's Restaurant, founded in 1946, is the home of the Brandy Milk Punch – which is even served for breakfast
Cajun food menu, which includes a traditional five-course table d’hÔte. Tujague’s Restaurant, 823 Decatur Street tujaguesrestaurant.com
The Hurricane
Pat O’Brien’s bar is the ultimate tourist trap, but I recommend it as it’s great fun! It’s the home of the original Hurricane, but produces the most disappointing house cocktail of all the famous bars. The bartendes even use a powdered “Hurricane mix” to make it and the result is far too sweet and unbalanced.
The Hurricane cocktail originated in the 1940s and consists of three different styles of rum plus a mixture of juices, served over ice in a urricane glass. It has fluctuated in popularity ever since, but its alma mater is definitely worth a visit for its three bars, courtyard, and staff, who always provide excellent friendly service. Pat O’Brien’s, 718 St Peter Street patobriens.com
The Brandy Milk Punch
If I had a heavy night, the next day I would go to Brennan’s Restaurant for breakfast and a Brandy Milk Punch – my favourite tonic to set up the day. It was invented in the 1940s and is a mix of brandy, milk, cream, vanilla syrup, and a nutmeg garnish. It is truly delicious. The restaurant itself is absolutely stunning inside and the food is top-notch. Brennan’s Restaurant, 417 Royal Street brennansneworleans.com
Absinthe Frappé
Jean Lafitte’s Old Absinthe House is a famous tavern that dates back to 1807 and feels like a dive bar until you look at the walls and piece together its historical significance. Similarly, the Absinthe Frappé has definitely fallen into the ‘forgotten classic’ category, with its 1874 recipe calling for absinthe; anisette;
Left: The Brandy Milk Punch, invented at Brennan's. Inset: Pat O'Brien's – home of The Hurricane. Below: Inside Arnaud's. Bottom left: An Absinthe Frappé
ARNAUD’S IS A WONDERFUL PLACE TO BE TRANSPORTED TO ANOTHER AGE BY HISTORIC DECOR
sugar; water and soda water. While the rest of the drinks menu does not push any boundaries, Jean Lafitte’s is a good, fun Bourbon Street party bar. Jean Lafitte’s Old Absinthe House, 240 Bourbon Street ruebourbon.com
The French 75
The French 75 is certainly not a classic New Orleans cocktail, but it feels like it should be. Arnaud’s Bar – part of, but separate from, the famous Arnaud’s Restaurant – has never claimed to have invented the cocktail, but it has certainly played a huge role in popularising it.
Arnaud’s is a wonderful place to sit, drink and be transported to another age by the historic decor. It’s a great place to enjoy a cigar, too. The fine-dining French restaurant next door is one of the most famous in the city and dates back to 1918. It is also one of the most haunted places in the French Quarter! Arnaud’s, 813 Bienville Street arnaudsrestaurant.com
THE FINE ART OF DRINKING
The Tom Collins has its portrait painted – in all its sweet and sour, palate-pleasing glory
There’s so much to love about Cocktails, A Still Life – 60 Spirited Paintings & Recipes. There are the drinks, of course, and then the history behind each recipe – not too dry, not too nerdy – just enough to know what’s what. There’s also plenty of insight into drinks categories, occasions and ingredients. But the real draw is Todd M. Casey’s 60 mesmerising oil paintings.
Tom Collins
50ml London Dry or Old Tom gin 12.5ml freshly squeezed lemon juice 12.5ml simple syrup Club soda Lemon wedge, to garnish
Method: Pour the gin, lemon juice and simple syrup into a shaker with ice. Shake well and strain into an ice-fi lled Collins glass. Top with Club soda and garnish with a lemon wedge.
Cocktails, A Still Life: 60 Spirited Paintings & Recipes, by Christine Sismondo & James Waller; art by Todd M. Casey (Running Press, £16.99)
