26 minute read
2: Gender
Women in drinks. Discuss...
With Carina Soto Velasquez, Cofounder of Quixotic Projects
Like colour, there’s been a lot of talk about women in the drinks industry, or the lack thereof. But things are definitely changing. Ten years ago, Carina Soto Velasquez made the switch from bartender to bar owner, setting up Quixotic Projects in Paris with business partners Josh Fontaine and Adam Tsou. Their first bar Candelaria put Paris on the global cocktail map, with Glass, Le Mary Celeste and Hero cementing the deal. Carina won the Havana Club Bar Entrepreneur of the Year in 2019 for shaking up the Paris bar scene, has been applauded for being a key figure in the drinks industry and currently sits at number 31 in the Bar World 100 Most Influential people list. We asked her for her views on:
Why the subject of women in the drinks industry is still a thing
There’s still so much work to be done and that’s why we need to keep talking about it. There are still women out there who need to know that there are females who have succeeded in the drinks world, not just in bartending or bar ownership but as brand ambassadors, PRs or writing about cocktails – this industry can take you down so many different paths. The thing is we don’t really know about the opportunities because they’re not highlighted as much or rewarded as well. Thankfully, things have begun to change in the past five years and the media has played a very important role in that.
The importance of mentorship
When I started bartending in Paris 14 years ago, it wasn’t a career for women. But having role models like Audrey Saunders, Ivy Mix and Julie Reiner in New York, knowing those people existed, owned bars, created cocktail recipes and were respected for what they were doing, kept me going.
Women in business
I was young – 25-26 – when we were raising money to open our first bar. I quickly learned that in order to get investment I would have to take a back seat. Even though I had all the press, all the contacts and knew how the city worked; even though I knew the guys on the door, the police and distributors, my two male business partners, Adam and Josh, had to take care of the business side of things.
Dealing with banks
As a woman in business the banks ask questions that I find extremely rude, things they would never ask a man. Like, “How are you going to deal with the business when you have a baby?” In my mind I was thinking: “I’m 26, why are we talking about maternity now?” I was also thinking, “This bank loan is probably going to be paid before I have children.” And what happens if you can’t have kids? Do you need to show a certificate to prove that you’re sterile? The whole thing is really horrible. Men also have babies but the question was addressed to me and not to the guys. In the end, I started answering the questions before they put them to me and that made them more uncomfortable.
Gender: Issue 12 Summer 2014
Whether being a woman in the industry holds you back or propels you
That’s a pretty tough question because I was the victim of a lot of harassment when I was waitressing or working as a host. I had horrible experiences, people touch
Carina Soto Velasquez
you, harass you and even follow you – it could be both psychological and physical. I don’t know many women who haven’t been through this. And that goes for every industry, not just drinks. Unfortunately, I was working in very unhealthy environments where there wasn’t support or anyone to talk to about these things. I left a restaurant because of harassment, I was traumatised. But I didn’t leave the industry. I needed the money but more than that, I wanted to learn. So yes, these things can hold you back but they also make you stronger.
If things are really changing for women
Yes, but mainly in a small circle of people who really care. Looking through the World’s 50 Best Bars and Bar World 100 listings it’s amazing to see more venues run by people who care about their teams and the work environment and ethics, but I think there’s still a lot of work to do in the pubs, smaller bars and more casual places. There are female students working in these kind of venues and they still face the issues I mentioned before. In our circles I think things have changed drastically, and I think that’s down to highlighting more women in the industry and there being more mentorship. Knowing that you can go and talk to your boss and them understanding what harassment feels like, that’s priceless. If a member of my team comes to talk to me about anything like that, they know we take them seriously and measures will be taken. The fact they can talk is incredible.
Top: Ivy Mix; above: Julie Reiner
Whether women are doing enough to nurture, propel and encourage each other Everybody does what they have time for but overall, I think there is a lot of solidarity. So far I haven’t been exposed to unhealthy competition or people not caring. All of the women I’ve met in the industry are happy sharing and promoting each other – I think we’re doing a pretty good job.
Occasions where being a woman in the industry has made an impact, positively or negatively
I’ve had both. Positively, because when I started out there weren’t that many female bartenders in Paris, so there was a need for a token person to open more roads for others. But there was a time when I refused to be the token woman and I was very vocal about it. There weren’t that many cocktail competitions in France but I took part in the Trophées du Bar in 2008 and won. It was good being a woman because it gave me a platform to promote myself, my venues and women in the industry in general. But it was also bad, because there was a sense that ‘she only won because she’s a woman’ – those sort of things were the bitter side of it. However, I don’t think opinions like that are as common as they used to be.
Female-only bartending competitions
I think they are brilliant. Speed Rack in particular has definitely shifted things for female bartenders, especially in the US. I’ve been in talks with the team about doing it in France but there’s too much legislation to work round and the drinks brands don’t work in the same way in Paris. In America you have more women working in the casual scenarios and this competition is great because it showcases women working in high-volume bars and pubs, not just the same niche cocktail bars – I love that. I was called to be the judge of the Havana Club competitions in the first year, I was tasked with choosing a winner who would go on to represent France in the global finals. I remember the French final – there were three female and one male judge and I think it was the first time I’d seen that on a judging panel. The candidate who won was a woman and she went on to win the overall Havana Club Grand Prix in Cuba. She told me afterwards that the final in Paris gave her the confidence to go to Cuba and she didn’t feel intimidated at any stage of the competition because she was being seen not just by men but also by women. That gives you confidence, that gives you strength. I tell the guys sometimes, ‘imagine you’re going to a competition and the entire panel is female and the room is 80% women, you’d be intimated.’ That’s what happens to us all the time.
What can be done to encourage more women into the industry
I don’t have the answer to that. I still struggle with staffing. It was a mission of mine that our business got close to a gender balance as it had become very heavily male; now we’re back to 45%, so we’re almost there. But equally it’s not right to say that you’re looking for women as you don’t want to exclude men, otherwise you’re missing out on another pool of talent. The way that we do it is by sending out subliminal messages, showing women in our advertisements, so they know that they’re welcome. This year’s Bar World 100 list shows that the drinks industry is getting closer to a balance – it’s so diverse and it’s not just the usual faces. To me, that’s really important.
quixotic-projects.com
EDRINGTON UK LONDON COCKTAIL WEEKMONTH
1st-31st October
The biggest cocktail festival in the world is back and with it comes another packed schedule from Edrington UK. On the menu for cocktail-loving consumers: how does a month of expertly made £7 cocktails sound? Take your pick from an array of delectable drinks made using Courvoisier Cognac, Roku Gin, The Macallan Scotch Whisky, Laphroaig Scotch Whisky and Maker’s Mark Bourbon in a winning selection of bars across London. For the trade, there’s a carefully curated programme of don’t-miss events covering everything from mental health and wellbeing to bar economics, as well as opportunities to get creative with the world’s most divisive whisky. Edrington UK has your London Cocktail Week Month covered. Nicole Sykes
Maker’s Mark UK Diplomat
Since beginning her bartending journey at Voodoo Rooms and The Voyage of Buck in Edinburgh, before taking on roles at top London bars Satan’s Whiskers and Lyaness, Nicole Sykes has become a much-loved, well-respected face on the UK bar scene. Add that to her bright, bubbly personality, clever ways with flavour combinations and a winning presentation style that garnered awards, it’s easy to see why she was picked out for the Maker’s Mark UK Diplomat role.
“Working brand side wasn’t something I was looking to do,” she admits. But when an opportunity comes along to work with a brand that aligns with your passions, an opportunity that allows you to grow, learn and share, it would be churlish to ignore the call. “I knew Amanda Humphrey, the previous brand ambassador, very well and I loved how Amanda spoke about Maker’s Mark. I also liked what she did with it,” Nicole continues. “Maker’s Mark has such a unique family-rich story, which is something I resonate with. They do things the long way and the hard way – they have a saying that goes, ‘If we could make it any faster, we wouldn’t’. I love those little nuggets of information, I love what the brand was built on and how they communicate their story,” she enthuses, then adds: “It helps that I actually love the liquid as well!”
There are other facets that saw her make the switch from behind the bar to brand. Including the richness of the category overall. “The bourbon industry is absolutely amazing, it’s a real community.”
That community spirit will be very much in evidence during London Cocktail Week. Like last year, Maker’s Mark are inviting bartenders to Tending to the Tenders, a series of free events with bartenders’ wellbeing top of mind. “The name says it all really; it’s our way of giving something back to the people who look after us,” says Nicole proudly. “It’s our way of saying thank you so much for all that you do. We know it’s been a tough year for the industry, so we’re inviting them to come along to Lyaness for some well-deserved R&R.”
TENDING TO THE TENDERS
4th, 11th, 18th and 25th October, 12pm4pm at Lyaness
“I went along to these sessions last year when I was a bartender so I know how impactful they are,” Nicole tells us. “So we’ve taken the elements that were most useful and popular, such as the massages and mental health sessions, and built this year’s programme out from that.”
There’s a different venue too. “We’ve partnered with Lyaness. Not only is it in a great building [Sea Containers London], which is also the official hotel of London Cocktail Week, but the team are working on a better work/life balance for their staff, which is something we’re really aligned with.”
She goes on: “It’s the perfect setting for curating the safe community we’re after; it’s a calm, relaxed space for bartenders to hang out and catch up with their peers. Each session is completely free of charge and takes in some really nice, fun things like the massages, food, drinks and films, but we’ve also added serious elements to address some of the problems in the industry, such as mental health awareness and coping strategies. “We could have gone for a wide range of experts but instead we’ve sought out people with a hospitality background because they can empathise with issues faced by the industry. So we have Camille Vidal [a former bartender and brand ambassador, now working on La Maison Wellness, a mindful drinking platform] offering yoga workshops and meditation, and Merly Kammerling [previously a chef at restaurants including Temper, Caravan and The Modern Pantry, now running Me, Myself in Mind, a therapy and mental health awareness business created specifically for hospitality workers], giving advice on mental wellbeing.”
David Miles
Whisky Ambassador, Edrington UK
What does a former classical dancer bring to the world of whisky? A great deal as it happens. As you’ll find out if you attend any of the whisky trainings hosted by David Miles. Having spent 14 years as a professional dancer, supplemented with many years of bar work – starting as a barback and progressing to manager – David’s two former worlds come together seamlessly in his new role of Whisky Ambassador across the Edrington UK portfolio. The title may be new but David has been with the company for the past 15 years, sharing his knowledge and passion for spirits, whisky in particular, with bartenders in London. “The main difference now is that my role is going to be focused solely on whisky trainings and I’ll be spreading my wings working across top accounts around the UK,” he says cheerfully.
“Doing what I do has just enough of a performance element that I genuinely enjoy it,” he continues. “Of course I want people to notice me and listen to what I have to say, but the worst thing in the world would be if it’s about me. Here, it’s about the whisky being the star.”
To prove how celestial he believes the spirit is, he begins many of his trainings by simply holding out a handful of barley. “I say that it’s tough, really boring and has no flavour, then I build the story to how, through distillation, ageing etc, such an unlikely starting point forms the basis for such an extraordinary and fascinating category.”
It’s that same broad spectrum that can create both confusion and appreciation when it comes to whisky. Which is where David’s expertise comes in. “That’s one of the joys of having a portfolio role; I genuinely enjoy working across a range and not just focusing on one brand. I really do believe that there is no such thing as ‘I don’t like whisky’. For me, it’s a case of not having found the right one yet and I love helping people to discover it. That’s why it’s really important that we provide as much education and advocacy to bartenders as we can, we need them to not only have the knowledge but also have the enthusiasm and confidence to communicate it properly.”
HEAT, PEAT, SOUR AND SWEET
5th, 12th, 19th and 26th October, 12pm-2pm at The Gibson
David knows that even the most adventurous bartenders can be a little overwhelmed by the big, bold, unapologetically medicinal characteristics of Laphroaig. “It’s very divisive – it’s the Marmite of the whisky world,” he admits. “Some people absolutely love it and others loathe it, which is fine, but it’s my job to get them to re-evaluate their reaction and take the fear away.”
The brand has already begun to do this really well with its attention on flavour and food pairing, and who could forget its Opinions Welcome campaign, which shows Islay locals tasting Laphroaig and either loving it or turning their noses up at the intensely rugged and wild peaty flavours. “What that shows is that it’s okay not to like it. It legitimises people to have a conversation about it, which we can then build on. That’s why we’re partnering up with Marian Beke for London Cocktail Week. He’s so knowledgeable and clever with the combinations he puts together and bartenders really respect his creativity. He’ll be teasing out the intensely smoky, some might say iodine or even tar-like characteristics of Laphroaig, while highlighting some of the other nuances found in it by putting together a selection of Laphroaig drams and cocktails. They’ll be paired with tropical fruit for an intense and interesting tasting experience,” David enthuses.
As for the venue, that’s another major draw. “It’s the intimate setting of Marian’s bar, The Gibson – and because he’s created it, the ambience is just right. It’s one of London’s most treasured gems.”
SALON COURVOISIER
The Toast of Paris comes to London in Salon Courvoisier
Running throughout the month of October, the stunning Courvoisier-based cocktails and perfectly paired dishes on offer at Oriole and Nightjar promise to be a highlight on the London Cocktail Week calendar. Entry is free but we suggest making a night of it by booking a table for a guided tour of the Courvoisier cognacs before learning how to create your own bespoke cocktail.
Evenings filled with glamorous cocktails and fabulous live music in a setting worth getting dressed up for.
Book at oriolebar.com and barnightjar.com
MAKER’S MARK X TAYēR + ELEMENTARY WORKSHOPS
6th, 13th, 20th and 27th October, 1-3pm
Join the award-winning, worldrenowned team at Tayēr + Elementary for a series of unmissable workshops.
Each week, an insightful and invaluable theme comes under the spotlight, from the ins and outs of using a rotary evaporator (6th October), and how to upcycle those broken glasses (13th October), to tips on being finance savvy in the bar (20th October) and a fun but practical guide to fermentation (27th October).
For all trade events listed, sessions are free but spaces are limited. For more information visit londoncocktailweek.com
RAISE YOUR GLASSES
The brands behind the bars
COURVOISIER – THE TOAST OF PARIS
Born in Paris, raised in Jarnac and celebrated globally, Courvoisier is every bit as elegant as its heritage suggests. Dating back to 1809 and renowned for toasting the opening of Eiffel Tower in 1889, it’s the most awarded cognac house in the world.
LAPHROAIG – THE MAGIC OF ISLAY
Laphroaig is without doubt the boss of peated single malt Scotch whiskies. Big in flavour and complex in taste, every sip is bursting with smoke, seaweed and a touch of intrigue, perfectly capturing the rugged, natural spirit of Islay itself.
MAKER’S MARK – THE MELLOW TASTE OF KENTUCKY
Bourbon whisky spelled without the customary ‘e’? That’s not the only difference in Maker’s Mark – there’s also a smooth sweetness not usually associated with the category. That comes from replacing the usual bite of rye with red winter wheat, added to yellow corn and malted barley, and that’s why it’s the original premium bourbon.
HOUSE OF SUNTORY – THE NATURE AND SPIRIT OF JAPAN
There’s more to the House of Suntory than its world-famous, awardwinning Japanese whiskies. That trademark precision, delicacy and artistry can be found in its vodka (Haku) and gin (Roku) as well. Crafted to bring the drinker a little closer to Japan, each of the spirits is a masterpiece in its own right.
THE MACALLAN – SIMPLY, SENSATIONALLY SPEYSIDE
Rich, round, fruity and generous of spirit, it’s the signature sherry seasoning of its 200,000 or so casks that gives The Macallan single malt whiskies their famous finish. Complex yet approachable, the whiskies under The Macallan umbrella are sought out by newbies and collectors alike.
WHERE TO FIND YOUR SIGNATURE SERVES To enjoy £7 Signature Serves in all participating bars for the entire month, sign up for your £15 festival wristband at londoncocktailweek.com
Courvoisier House of Suntory Laphroaig Maker’s Mark The Macallan Highland Park Brugal 1888 Knob Creek Jim Beam
CENTRAL
1. Bandra Bhai, 79-81 Mortimer Street, W1W 7SJ. bandrabhai.co.uk
2. Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar, London Marriott County Hall, Westminster Bridge Road, SE1 7PB. gillrays.com 3. Fitz’s, Kimpton Fitzroy, Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. fitzs.co.uk
4. The Hoxton, Holborn, 199-206 High Holborn, WC1V 7BD. thehoxton.com
5. London Cocktail Club, 61 Goodge Street, W1T 1TL. londoncocktailclub.co.uk/goodge-street 6. London Cocktail Club, 224a Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8EB. londoncocktailclub.co.uk/ shaftesbury-avenue 7. Mrs Riot, 10 Henrietta Street, WC2E 8PS. mrsriotlondon.com
8. Pantechnicon, 19 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8LB. pantechnicon.com 9. Paradise, 61 Rupert Street, W1D 7PW. paradisesoho.com 10. The Prince Akatoki, 50 Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD. theprinceatokilondon.com
11. Purl, 50-54 Blandford Street, W1U 7HX.
CITY/EAST CENTRAL
13. Apothecary, 36 Charlotte Road, EC2A 3PG. apothecaryeast.co.uk 14. Demon, Wise & Partners, 27a Throgmorton Street, EC2N 2AN. demonandwise.co.uk
15. London Cocktail Club, Liverpool Street, 206210 Bishopsgate, EC2M 4NR. londoncocktailclub. co.uk/liverpool-street 16. London Cocktail Club, Mansion House, 78 Queen Victoria Street, EC4N 4SJ. londoncocktailclub.co.uk/mansion-house
17. London Cocktail Club, Monument, 2b Eastcheap, EC3M 1AB. londoncocktailclub. co.uk/monument
18. London Cocktail Club, Old Street, 63 Worship Street, EC2A 2DU. londoncocktailclub.co.uk/old-street
19. Nightjar, 129 City Road, EC1V 1JB. barnightjar.com 20. Oriole, East Poultry Avenue, Smithfield Market, EC1A 9LH. oriolebar.com
21. Tayer + Elementary, 152 Old Street, EC1V 9BW. tayer-elementary.com 22. The Gibson, 44 Old Street, EC1V 9AQ. thegibsonbar.london 23. The Zetter Townhouse, 49-50 St. John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. thezetter.com
EAST
24. Duchess of Dalston, 339 Kingsland Road, E8 9LE. duchessofdalston.com 25. London Cocktail Club, Bethnal Green, Arch 253, Paradise Row, E2 9LE. londoncocktailclub. co.uk/mansion-house
26. London Cocktail Club, Shoreditch, 29 Sclater Street, E1 6HR. londoncocktailclub. co.uk/shoreditch 27. Looking Glass Cocktail Club, 49 Hackney Road, E2 7NX. lookingglasslondon.co.uk 28. MAP Maison, 321 Kingsland Road, E8 4DL. mapmaison.com
29. Three Sheets, 510b Kingsland Road, E8 4AB. threesheets-bar.com
30. Untitled, 538 Kingsland Road, E8 4AH. untitled-drinks.com
NORTH
31. Supermax, 14 Handyside Street, N1C 4DN. happyface.pizza
SOUTH
32. Lyaness, 20 Upper Ground, Southbank, SE1 9PD. lyaness.com 33. Spiritland Diner, Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Road, Southbank, SE1 8XX. spiritland.com
34. The Shrub & Shutter, 336 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8QH. theshrubandshutter.com
35. London Cocktail Club, 182-184 Clapham High Street, SW4 7UG. londoncocktailclub.co.uk/ clapham
WEST
36. Sunday in Brooklyn, 98 Westbourne Grove, W2 5RU. sundayinbk.co.uk
£7 Signature Serves from Naked Malt are also available at London Cocktail Club, 4 Great Portland Street, W1W 8QJ. londoncocktailclub. co.uk/oxford-circus
The colour conundrum
Deano Moncrieffe on how and why he set up one of the most important resources for diversity and inclusion in the drinks industry, Equal Measures
When I first started out as a brand ambassador I felt a huge sense of responsibility, because I knew there weren’t many other people of colour who were in a role like this. I felt a sense of having to make sure that not only was I being the best I could be for myself but also for other people of colour and underrepresented groups. In fact when I joined Diageo, I was the only one. There was no one else who looked like me. That is a lonely place to be. And it’s a challenging place to be, because you know that there will always be some unconscious bias directed your way.
When I was growing up my mum and dad always used to say to me that you need to work twice as hard as a white person to get ahead in this country because there are so many barriers for you. I’m sure there are a lot of people of colour who can relate. That work ethic has always stayed with me. But it has a negative side to it as well, because when you’re starting out in your career you put too much pressure on yourself to deliver and be the absolute best at all times. There used to be a sense of feeling that someone in a senior position was just waiting for me to mess up so they could say, “I told you so, we never should’ve employed that black guy.” The more experience you gain in your career, you realise that that’s bullshit: the only thing that matters is that you try to be the best version of yourself that you can be, every day, and bring your learning from the previous day into the present day. That’s how you grow. Before I started working for Diageo, I remember going for interviews at most of the major drinks companies in the UK. People would literally stop working and look at me as I entered the building because they just weren’t used to seeing people of colour there. I actually found it quite funny rather than intimidating. This has changed dramatically over the past 10 years and I’m pleased to say that there is much more representation of all marginalised groups, not just people of colour, within the bigger drinks companies and large corporations. That’s not to say there isn’t a long way to go, because there is.
I do believe that people of colour are still being held back in this industry. I say this because there are still people who are responsible for hiring practices who are completely unaware of the importance of diversity and inclusion, and the benefits it brings to a working environment.
Through Equal Measures – the platform I founded in 2020 to educate the industry on diversity and inclusivity – I’m approached on an almost daily basis by people asking me about how to improve diversity. My response is that you always need to ask yourself “why do I think it’s important for my team to be more diverse than it currently is?” If someone can answer that question in the right way then it fills me with confidence that I can really help them and together we can create positive change.
Throughout my career I’ve experienced so much casual racism, I’ve experienced extreme levels of racism, and I think it would be remiss of me not to mention that this has been from both within and outside of my workplace.
During the past 10 years, I’ve been called a nigger to my face and behind my back by people at work, by customers at an event and even once by another bartender during a drinks festival. I’ve been called a black bastard more times than I care to remember. I’ve been called an African spear chucker, I’ve been called a brown fucker, I’ve been singled out at multiple large-scale events when someone has made an offensive casual racist remark that everyone except me has found funny. I’ve been chased down the street by racists in other European cities whilst I was judging cocktail competitions.
All of these scenarios make you feel incredibly vulnerable and isolated, and then you realise that there isn’t a support system in place within your working environment for someone to help you. Even more disturbingly, it’s clear there isn’t a visible support organisation outside of the workplace either – no one to support you if you feel like you can’t seek help from someone in your team.
Now, to the positive side of things. Since the launch of Equal Measures, I would have to say 90% of the senior management that I’ve worked with or have crossed paths with during the past 10 years have all reached out to me to be involved in the education and mentorship project, which is absolutely incredible. Equally, many bar operators, managers, bartenders, brand ambassadors and industry icons that I’ve respected also want to be involved, praising the work and recognising the importance of continuing to raise awareness around equality.
EQUAL MEASURES
When I founded Equal Measures it was to raise awareness around the importance of equality, diversity and inclusion. The motivation was to make sure that nobody else in our industry would feel like I did, that nobody else would go unsupported.
I’m delighted to announce that Equal Measures has joined forces with The Drinks Trust and will now be known as Equal Measures in association with The Drinks Trust. We share a vision of positive change and of building a stronger united drinks industry through equality on all levels; by joining forces our message will be greatly amplified going forward. We’ve relaunched with a new website, which is super exciting for me, as it’ll be a hub of resources, information, events, key seminar dates for the calendar, support helplines and much more.
I will go on record right now and say that my ambition is to make Equal Measures one of the most important resources for diversity, inclusion and equality within the drinks industry. My main goal is to achieve that in the UK, but there is no reason to believe that it has to end there. I am constantly approached by people and organisations from all over the world and have been involved in seminars and panel discussions in North America, Africa and Europe. The issue of inequality exists everywhere, but one step at a time, one person at a time, we can bring positive change. Or as we say at Equal Measures, change positive.
Find out more at equalmeasuresuk.org
