Weir & Sons Style Magazine Summer 2019 by thecontentagency

MAGAZINE

CELEBRATING 150 YEARS OF HISTORY IN THE MAKING

Breguet La Marine Chronograph 5527

THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON

On the 50th anniversary of the first lunar landing, OMEGA is reflecting on the golden moments that defined that iconic day. Worn by the Apollo 11 astronauts and on hand for all six lunar missions, OMEGAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Speedmaster Professional has earned a special place in our pioneering history. #MOONWATCH

Big Bang Ferrari. Titanium case inspired by the car brand's iconic lines. In-house chronograph UNICO movement. Interchangeable strap using patented One-Click system. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.

hublot.com

HAPPY HEARTS COLLECTION

ANDREW KILPATRICK

WELCOME

It is said that people don’t buy what you do, but why you do it. Over our 150-year history, and through the generations upon which our business is built, it has never been just about what Weir & Sons has sold. It has never simply been about fine jewellery and watches, gleaming silver or hand-crafted accessories. It has always been about creating memories, about celebrating special moments with just the right gesture — that perfectly chosen piece lovingly rendered and made to last. This, the first of the celebratory issues for our 150th anniversary, hopefully goes some way to marking those moments, while delving into our past history. On page 45, we look back at the foundations of our first and still flagship store, opened by Thomas Weir. It was the young Scotsman’s tenacity and invention that set our success in motion and, as subsequent generations drove it on, Weir & Sons has continued to flourish. But we are not alone in marking a significant moment this year. On page 51, we look at some of the legendary watch brands celebrating a big birthday — from TAG Heuer’s Monaco to Omega’s Speedmaster, they have each created newly imagined editions that build on a remarkable legacy, forging timepieces that are exceptional for any era, future or past. WEIR.IE

The 150 years since Weir & Sons was founded have also encapsulated some of the most groundbreaking moments in watchmaking. On page 61, we look back at the strides made in keeping time, including our own advancements, as we became the first store to introduce trailblazing brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe to Ireland. It is a very special honour that the latter of these, the extraordinary Swiss watchmaker and fellow family business stalwart Patek Philippe, has partnered with us to create a unique watch to mark our historic anniversary. With just 25 made, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Special Series Ref. 5905P-014 is both a breathtaking piece of horological engineering and a thing of beauty. Read about its careful crafting on page 25. We have been fortunate enough to work with great jewellery brands over the years too, and three of just some of our beloved contemporary designers have created specific pieces to commemorate this significant date. On page 71, Shaun Leane, Paul Costelloe and Chupi talk about the inspiration behind their contributions to our celebrations, and why the store has a unique place in Irish history, as well as their own personal stories. We have created some exceptional jewellery of our own to mark this moment. On

page 76, we tell the story of how a set of rare and highly prized tsavorites and emeralds went from their raw beginnings to becoming three separate statement necklaces, pieces worthy of encapsulating our 150-year history. Over the years, the store too has played host to stars of stage and screen. On page 65, we look at the relationship between some of the world’s most famous names and the timepieces they have adored. But this issue isn’t all just about looking back. On page 29, we come right up to date with a focus on some of the best new timepieces with an eco ethos, while on page 56 this year’s must-have sport watches are brought into view. We hope you enjoy this commemorative issue, a very special one for us in this remarkable year. We would like to thank all our customers and staff for our continued success, for without them it would not be possible. We look forward to seeing you instore, to celebrating the memories made and the many more still to come. The Weir & Sons team

WEIR & SONS 9

Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet

La Grande Classique de Longines

Style Editor Jessie Collins Art Director Clare Meredith Sub-editor Sharon Miney Publisher Richard Power, The Content Agency Ltd

Contents 61

For Weir & Sons Executive Editor Lucinda Andrews Contributing Editor Lisa Freeman Silver Editor David Andrews Jewellery Editor Stacey Scoulding Watch Editor Yvette Walsh Fashion Editor Chris Andrews Assistant Fashion Editor Aoife Doyle Weir & Sons would like to thank all contributors and advertisers for their continued support. While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy of information, Weir & Sons accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies that may arise. No liability can be accepted for illustrations, artwork or advertising material while in transmission or with the publishers or their agents. Weir & Sons Style Magazine is published by Weir & Sons in association with The Content Agency Ltd, The Park, Ballycrean, Co. Wicklow. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part (including photocopying or storing in any medium by electronic means) is prohibited without prior permission of The Content Agency, please contact richard@thecontentagency.ie. The reproduction of colours is as accurate as the printing process will allow. Whilst Weir & Sons Style Magazine accepts third party advertising, it does not endorse or take any responsibility for products or services outside those of Weir & Sons. Please contact the advertiser directly. All terms are subject to availability. Weir & Sons has made every effort to ensure that product information and prices are correct at time of going to press. Some of these, including price, may change after publication. Weir & Sons 96-99 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland +353 (0) 1 677 9678; weir.ie Level 1, Dundrum Town Centre, Dundrum, Dublin 16, Ireland +353 (0) 1 215 7845; weir.ie sales@weirandsons.ie @WeirandSons /WeirsJewellers @weirandsons

Cover image photographed by Trevor Hart Styling and Art Direction by Eleanor Harpur

34 17 NEWS

Get up to date on the latest jewellery and watches.

20 HEADS UP

Transform any look with our essential statement earrings edit.

22 GREEN DREAM

From watches to pendants, shop the shade of the season.

25 PERFECT PAIRING

The story of Patek Philippe and Weir & Sons’ partnership, and a limited-edition timepiece like no other.

29 29 WATCH THIS SPACE

The The eco timepieces making a diﬀ diﬀerence erence right now.

34 PATTERN PLAY

Jewellery and watches crafted over time, made to be adored forever.

45 TIME ON OUR SIDE

The The story of our store, and the many lives lived within it.

51 HAVING A MOMENT

From TAG Heuer’s Monaco to Zenith’s Spring Drive, the brands celebrating a special birthday this year.

56 GAME ON

The latest sports watches pushing horological limits.

61 TIME LINE

A brief history of watchmaking since we first opened in 1869.

65 STAR TURN

Famous names and their most beloved timepieces.

71 71 MAKERˇS MARK

Three Th ree jewellery designers give the inspiration behind their celebratory pieces.

76 A TRUE GEM

A set of specially commissioned anniversary necklaces, crafted over time.

79 PARTY PEOPLE

Guests of our 150-year anniversary party, held at the Mansion House in spring.

NO TIME LIKE THE FIRST. #MYCALVINS SwISS MAdE

NEWS Buon anniversario! Founded 90 years ago this year, Italian jewellery house FOPE is celebrating with a reimagined version of its original Eka bracelet, the ﬁrst piece to showcase its groundbreaking Flex’it technology. Launched in 2007 and still one of the brand’s bestsellers, the Eka was a revolutionising piece of design, its roll-on mesh chain in stretchable pure gold quickly becoming renowned for its comfort, ease and style. Pictured are the FOPE Flex'it Eka Bracelets in 18k yellow gold (€3,200 each), which come in a revamped style consisting of a subtle yet transformative redesign of the signature rondel — part of a suite of jewellery entitled the Eka Anniversario, all available in three gauges.

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NEWS DOUBLE TIME

Tudor’s latest watch is the cutting-edge hybrid Black Bay Chrono S&G (S&G stands for ‘steel and gold’), €5,410, which combines the aquatic heritage of the Black Bay family with the motorracing prowess of its chronograph. The first time Tudor has combined its self-winding manufacture calibre, column wheel and vertical clutch in an S&G version, it has retained the famous ‘snowflake’ hands, this time in gold outline against a matte-black dial in a domed case. New touches such as hollowed counters in a champagne hue and yellow gold pushers are blended with trademark Black Bay styling such as the slim 41mm steel case to create something both fresh and classic.

SHEER BRILLIANCE

For its new Classique Tourbillon ExtraPlat Squelette 5395, Breguet has gone for an extra-thin (3mm) skeleton design to display its historic tourbillon movement. Removing almost 50 per cent of the material, the skeleton design comes within an 18k gold calibre, while the tourbillon has had a complete redesign. The titanium carriage now engages directly with the wheel train, with the silicon escapement given a distinct angled shape to save on space. The carriage itself weighs no more than 0.29 grammes and the watch is equipped with a power reserve of 80 hours; this masterpiece sits in a fluted case topped with a domed glass box to reveal the movement within. The sapphire dial features applied hour markers in blued gold, rounded off with the traditional blued, moon-tipped hands and soldered horns typical of the Breguet house. The rose gold version is €223,900, while the platinum version is €239,200. 16 WEIR & SONS

TUTTI FRUTTI

Swatch’s latest collection, Energy Boost, draws its inspiration from tropical summer fruits with freshly squeezed colours such as peach, yellow and lime green. Playful motifs come in the form of banana, strawberry and kiwi prints. Two-tone versions go from peach to pineapple with single striped options in red and teal, with prices starting from €60.

UNDERWATER TREASURE

Rolex has introduced an Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in a yellow Rolesor version, €15,050, combining Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold – and bringing 18k yellow gold to the Sea-Dweller range for the first time. ‘Sea-Dweller’ is inscribed in yellow against the black dial, while the 43mm Oyster case features a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic, allowing divers to safely monitor their dive and decompression times. This Th is new version also comes with the 3235 calibre and Superlative Chronometer certification, certifi cation, with a guaranteed waterresistant depth of 1,220 Thee middle case metres. Th is crafted from a solid block of corrosionresistant Oystersteel, while the caseback is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement.

WEIR.IE

The Breitling Surfer Squad Sally Fitzgibbons Kelly Slater Stephanie Gilmore

LAND

SUPEROCEAN

A IR

SEA

#SQUADONAMISSION

NEWS BLUE NOTE

Dutch-designed Secrid wallets are known for the innovative manufacturing techniques that shape this bespoke range of protective card holders and cash wallets. Each wallet is crafted using high-quality leather and aluminium, and has a patented magnetic strip protector built in. This latest denim-inspired range of Indigo wallets comes in stitched leather and each one is named after the number of dips needed to create its characteristic shade (e.g. Indigo 3, Indigo 5). Priced €75, all wallets are produced responsibly with minimal waste at the Secrid factory in the Netherlands.

OCEANS OF TIME

Introduced more than 10 years ago as part of its sport collection, Longines has added to its HydroConquest dive watch range, introducing new versions with a bezel enhancement and a coloured ceramic insert. Still in keeping with the traditional style of diving watches, they are water-resistant to 300 metres, with a unidirectional rotating bezel and screw-down crown and caseback, while all models come with crown protection and a double-security folding clasp with an integrated diving extension. The newly added ceramic element is scratch-resistant, while the hands and hour markers in Super LumiNova ® stand out in sharp contrast to the dark look of the blue sunray dial on the L3.781.4.96.6 model, €1,420. The bracelet, meanwhile, combines polished and brushed steel. Available in 41mm and 43mm.

EASTERN PROMISE

Inspired by the original Diamond Trellis Egg, Fabergé’s Treillage collection features the Trellis pattern so synonymous with one of the most famous jewellery names in history and which, when first designed, appeared on everything from cigarette cases to parasols and picture frames. The collection is studded with rare jewels including rubies, amethysts, pink and blue sapphires, tsavorites, emeralds and diamonds, set into a seamless quilted gold backdrop. This multi-coloured rose gold pendant, €6,000, also comes in a charm version with matching drop earrings.

BLUSH UP

NATURAL WONDER

Mikimoto has introduced a new collection, Praise to Nature, which focuses on creating hero pieces from some of the world’s most carefully selected natural pearls. This pair of butterfly earrings, €52,475, are one-of-akind, coming with a matched pair of natural freshwater pearls – things of extreme rarity – and displays all the illustrious iridescence so intrinsic to them. Each butterfly is crafted from 18k white gold and is set with diamonds, sapphires, amethysts, alexandrite and tanzanite. 18 WEIR & SONS

Taking its cue from the shade of the season, the Antarès watch by Michel Herbelin French Watchmaking Studio comes with an interchangeable strap in three different pink hues of fuchsia, tropical and powder pink. Available in-store is the rectangular version, €650, and lyre shape, pictured middle, €710, with the steel case complemented by the delicate design of the silvered dial. Michel Herbelin is an independent, family-owned watchmaking company which, for three generations, has been committed to excellence and quality French craftsmanship. Interchangeable strap watch is sold in a box with an additional strap. Also available is a single-loop interchangeable strap and a double-loop interchangeable leather strap. WEIR.IE

Amethyst and yellow sapphire earrings, €625, Weir Collection

Roman Barocco 18k rose gold and diamond earrings, €4,825, Roberto Coin 18k white gold and diamond drop earrings, €3,562, Weir Collection

Ellipse earrings, €5,975, Mikimoto

18k white gold, sapphire and diamond earrings, €6,070, Weir Collection

Pearl and diamond earrings, €8,385, Yoko London

18k rose gold and diamond earrings, €2,625, Weir Collection

EAR CANDY

18k gold drop earrings, €3,035, Roberto Coin

Shop our best statement earrings, from shoulder-sweeping diamonds to multi-coloured gems.

Platinum, diamond and sapphire earrings, €29,575, Weir Collection

18k white gold diamond hoop earrings, €4,740, Weir Collection

18k gold earrings, €765, Weir Collection

18k white gold pear-shaped diamond earrings, €10,980, Weir Collection

18k rose gold, pink tourmaline, garnet and sapphire earrings, earrings €5,480, Weir Collection

18k rose gold and diamond earrings, €1,510, Weir Collection

18k gold multi-colour enamel drop earrings, €6,135, Fabergé 18k white gold and diamond earrings, €2,360, Weir Collection

22 WEIR & SONS

WEIR.IE

Trinity knot, €50, Solvar

Malachite and gold-plated triangle charm, €98, Thomas Sabo

18k white gold, diamond and emerald pendant, €7,215, Waskoll

18k white gold, diamond and emerald twist ring, €4,770, Waskoll

Premier B01 Chronograph Bentley British Racing Green watch, €8,150, Breitling

G-Timeless watch, €1,095, Gucci

GREEN LIGHT

18k white gold, diamond and emerald earrings, €7,810, Weir Collection

Dip into one of the shades of the season. From watches to rings, it’s all about this fresh, verdant hue.

Diamond and emerald chandelier earrings, €10,060, Weir Collection

18k yellow gold and green amethyst ring, €1,015, Alex Monroe

18k white gold, diamond and tsavorite drop earrings, €38,485, Weir Collection

Miniwallet, €60, Secrid

The Bowery watch, €89.95, Rosefield

18k white gold, diamond and emerald brooch, €11,450, Weir Collection Melissa ring, €310, Carat* London

22 WEIR & SONS

18k white gold, emerald and diamond ring, €4,180, Waskoll

G-Timeless Bee watch, €890, Gucci WEIR.IE

MARKEDin TIME Weir & Sons has joined forces with Patek Philippe – one of the world’s most revered watchmakers – to create a unique timepiece that distils these two heritage businesses into one beautiful mix of precision and cutting-edge design, writes Jessie Collins.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Special Series Ref. 5905P-014, €90,500

ow do you mark a history so synonymous with timekeeping and the art of watchmaking? Perhaps there is no greater way than by designing a unique timepiece that combines all those legacies into a one-off creation, symbolising both the past and the future of a landmark business. And this is exactly what Weir & Sons has done by way of a rare partnership with one of Switzerland’s foremost watchmakers, to create the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Special Series Ref. 5905P-014 – a limited edition of just 25 watches that encapsulates the heritage of Weir & Sons and its position as the leading watch retailer in Ireland for much of its 150year existence. It ties into a long relationship with the Swiss house, which has been supplying cutting-edge timepieces to the store for over half a century. “Our relationship with Weir & Sons was established more than 50 years ago,” says Patek Philippe’s president, Thierry Stern. “As a family company, we have been working together based on long-term values we share, and the launch of this Special Series is a great way of celebrating this fruitful partnership.” When approaching the idea of a commemorative watch,

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there was one thing Weir & Sons’ operations director, Chris Andrews, knew was going to be integral to its design: the colour. Created in a jewel-like emerald green, the watch’s hue not only draws on Weir & Sons’ proud Irish heritage but reaches right back into its archives: the early packaging came in a vibrant green shade, while an old safe from the 1920s also came in a striking verdant colour. “Green has been a theme running through the business almost since we began,” says Chris. “So it made sense to make this the main element of the watch.” Working with Patek Philippe was an easy choice too. “We’ve had a close partnership with Patek Philippe since we really started selling watches so it made total sense to work with them.” With the colour decided, the next phase was to work with the Swiss maker on the model and design. “They are simply one of the best watchmakers in the world,” says Chris, “and the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905P-014 is a remarkable timepiece.” The chronograph has always been central to Patek Philippe’s collection, with its precision timekeeping, while the Annual Calendar, which needs only to be corrected once a year, is also a triumph in watchmaking. The two elements combined make for one of the most sought-after watches in modern-day collections. The Ref. 5905P in platinum, which this limited-edition set is issued in, is the newest version yet by the brand. In terms of the integral elements of the watch, the 42-millimetre platinum case is a masterpiece in itself. Starting off as a platinum bar cold-formed in high-tonnage press ends, it is crafted in Patek Philippe’s own atelier – a process that involves several weeks of handcrafting, particularly in the deburring, grinding and mirror-polishing. The casing goes under repeated rigorous inspections, meaning that the whole process can take nearly two weeks. It is then accented by a round bezel and caseband, which combines seamlessly with the gently curved lugs. The outer contours of the start/stop pusher, the crown and the reset pusher are then arranged along an arc parallel to the caseband. The round display on the back exposes the large 21k gold winding rotor, which keeps it running continuously if it is regularly worn. The bridges are decorated with supreme craftsmanship and come 26 WEIR & SONS

The engraved caseback showing the inscription marking Weir & Sons' 150th anniversary

WEIR.IE

with circular graining to emphasise the round pattern on the rotor. The contrast of the gold against the silvery rhodium surfaces, the shiny chamfers and the red bearing jewels give the calibre CH 28-520 QA 24H movement an opulence that bears all the hallmarks of the Swiss watchmaker, as well as those of Weir & Sons. The movement itself is the aforementioned iconic self-winding calibre CH 28-520 QA 42H, with a power reserve of a minimum of 45 hours, while the central rotor comes with unidirectional winding. The mechanism is a Gyromax® and Spiromax® balance spring with the Patek Philippe Seal. In functionality, it combines the technology of a flyback chronograph with that of the Annual Calendar, both highly prized in their own right. The Annual Calendar is based on a patent issued to Patek Philippe in 1996, with displays controlled mainly by wheels and pinions rather than the more traditional rockers and levers. Automatically recognising 30- and 31-day months, if the watch runs uninterrupted, there needs to be only one manual correction per year between February and March. It displays the day of the week, the date and the month, and it controls the day/night indicator. The chronograph mechanism of the new Ref. 5905P remains true to the traditional column wheel for handling the start, stop and reset commands. Where it differs, though, is that it controls the clamp of a vertical disc clutch rather than the lever of a horizontal wheel clutch, resulting in superior reliability. The chronograph hand can also double as a running seconds hand, yet doesn’t detract from the accuracy of the movement. The outermost scale for the chronograph hand is adjoined by a crisply graduated minute scale. It is followed by a broad ring that accommodates the white gold hour markers and – between 10 and two o’clock – the three aperture displays of the Annual Calendar. The date aperture at 12 o’clock clock is a little larger and embedded in a polished white gold frame. At six o’clock, clock, there is a 60-minute chronograph counter and a small window for the day/night indicator just below the arbour of the hand, giving it the cool elegance that is synomyous with a Patek Philippe piece. The hour and minute hands that hover above the dial are created in a Dauphine silhouette and a Superluminova coating on the most centre

ridge. Together with the luminous five-minute markers, it gives perfect clarity in the dark. The design elements that commemorate the 150-year anniversary of Weir & Sons make this watch even more unique. Added to these superbly crafted and cutting-edge designs, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Special Series Ref. 5905P014 features a green sunburst dial, with gold applied hour markers adorning the face. It is then further enriched with Patek Philippe’s statement alligator strap rendered in verdant green. On the rim of the sapphire-crystal back, there is ‘Weir & Sons’ and ‘150th Anniversary’ distinctly engraved to mark the historic occasion. Such a significant and singular timepiece deserves a rare and bespoke setting. Handmade by one of the few specialist craftsmen working right now, the Patek Philippe Chronograph Annual Calendar Special Series for Weir & Sons comes in an Irish oak box with ancient bog-oak inlay (estimated to be 3,000 years old) with gold-leaf inlay and silver plaque. Made by Weir & Sons in sterling silver, it is hand-engraved with the number of each watch, the Weir & Sons 150th logo, the Weir & Sons TW maker’s mark standing for founder Thomas Weir, and the Dublin Assay marks. The watch also comes complete with a pair of Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross cufflinks in white gold to match. A decadent home for a truly special piece. “This really is a combination of centuries of almost unrivalled watch craftsmanship from Patek Philippe and generations of passionate knowledge that Weir & Sons offer,” says Chris Andrews. “It is a piece we hope people love right now, but then can also treasure forever. It symbolises all of our great heritage as Ireland’s premier watch retailer, but it’s more than that. It captures a part of our essence – a quality and a longevity that is totally unique to us.”

“The combination of the chronograph and the Annual Calendar make for one of the most sought-after watches in modern-day collections” WEIR.IE

WEIR & SONS 27

OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPER

TISSOT T-RACE CYCLING TOUR DE FRANCE SPECIAL EDITION. TOUR DE FRANCE LOGO ENGRAVED ON THE CASEBACK.

TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

TIMESavers

If you want to see examples of ethical design, innovative thinking and cutting-edge technology, look no further than the current wave of eco-conscious timepieces, says Nathalie Marquez Courtney, created to be kinder to the planet.

rom the murky, delirious blue depths of the Atlantic to the unfathomable chill of the Antarctic; from the thrum of tropical wildlife in the Amazon to the austere, deathly quiet dunes of the Mojave Desertâ&#x20AC;Ś Watches have accompanied plucky explorers on thrilling, terrifying, exhilarating adventures to some of the most remote, most beautiful, most extreme places in the world. And each of these places is now at risk, in one way or another, thanks to the ravaging, ruinous effects of climate change. So it stands to reason that some of the finest horology houses in the world are focusing on tackling the environmental crisis head on. From straps that re-use ocean plastics to watches powered by light, and partnerships with leading conservation groups, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re beginning to see a big shift towards sustainability in the world of luxury watchmaking.

Mike Horn, explorer, environmentalist and Panerai ambassador

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DEFY EL PR I M ERO 21

Z E N I T H - W AT C H E S . C O M

T I M E T O R E A C H YO U R S TA R

T H E W O R L D â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S TA L L E S T B U I L D I N G . F O R N O W .

T H E F U T U R E O F S W I S S WATC H M A K I N G S I N C E 18 6 5

THE GREAT BEYOND

“I managed to use exploration as a platform to create a following, to communicate sustainability and conservation,” says Mike Horn, explorer, environmentalist and Panerai ambassador. One of the world’s greatest living adventurers, Horn has famously seen more of the natural world than almost anyone currently alive; he has circumnavigated the globe unassisted, scaled 8,000-metre peaks and even walked to the North Pole during the dark season (more people have been to the moon). Horn, a Panerai ambassador for more than 10 years, collaborated with the Italian watchmaker to create a two-watch Submersible collection. As with his globetrotting conservation efforts, these pieces aim to communicate the importance of sustainability. “I’ve seen the issues our environment faces, having travelled the world,” he says. “We are so deeply entrenched in consuming, it’s disgusting. And in a small way, this watch shows we can re-use. Creating products with a link to experience and sustainability is the future.” Like its rugged namesake, the Mike Horn Edition 47mm is a tough, strong and reliable timepiece. A professional diving watch, it is water-resistant to a depth of 300 metres. Key elements – from the case to the cool titanium relief bezels and back, engraved with Horn’s signature – are made of EcoTitanium (recycled titanium), while the strap is made from recycled plastic.

FROM TOP: Eco-Drive Ceci, €375, Citizen; limited-edition Maestro The Beatles Sgt. Pepper’s collection with vegan strap, €1,450, Raymond Weil; Mike Horn Edition 47mm, €19,900, Panerai

Horn also appears to be speaking literally when he talks about the importance of linking products to experiences: a very limited 19-piece edition has also been launched, which includes access to an Arctic expedition led by Horn himself. The eco credentials are not just on the outside, either. These watches are operated by the P.9010 automatic calibre, which was developed and created at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland: a zero-emissions building outfitted with state-of-the-art, energy-saving equipment specialising in recovering and re-using waste materials.

LET THERE BE LIGHT

Sustainably produced watches aren’t yet as widely available as sustainable gemstones, but they are slowly becoming more diverse and accessible, appealing to a wider range of wearers. Across the board, we’re seeing how creativity and design thinking can lead to fresh solutions that are kinder to the environment, and support a circular and regenerative economy. These shifts are less about paying lip service to eco trends and more about creating deep, meaningful change and thinking holistically about product development: improving manufacturing processes, purchasing Fairmined metals, removing hard-to-trace materials from the supply chain and replacing them with ethical, sustainable alternatives. Bottom line: these watches might be the exception now, but soon they could be the rule. A great example of this is watch batteries. Because they are made up of mercury, lead and nickel, reducing the use of batteries is an important step in making watches more sustainable. And even

“Creating products with a link to experience and sustainability is the future” WEIR.IE

though solar-powered watches are nothing new (Citizen introduced them in 1976), it is only in recent years that technology advancements have allowed for slimmer, sleeker models. The elegant new Citizen Ceci and Capella ladies’ collections both feature Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology, which harnesses the power of any light source (yes, even cloudy Irish days) and converts it into enough energy to power the watches. Seiko’s Astron GPS Solar collection is also powered by light alone, connecting to the satellite network twice a day to ensure precise timekeeping. These high-tech changes to production processes make a huge difference, but highprofile collaborations can also lead to more ethical choices. Raymond Weil recently introduced the brand’s first ‘vegan leather’ strap, which was personally requested by Sir Paul McCartney. It forms part of the limited-edition Maestro The Beatles Sgt. Pepper’s collection and is restricted to just 3,000 models.

TIME AND TIDE

Collaboration is at the heart of innovative watchmaking, and this is particularly true in dive watches. Over the years, partnerships with professional divers have spawned a slew of cutting-edge technologies and designs. Now watches that help divers thrive underwater may end up coming to the aid of our oceans as well. And boy, do they need the help. There is no shortage of stark statistics: the UN Environment Programme calculates that more than eight million tonnes of plastic leak into our oceans every year – the equivalent of one rubbish truck every minute. By 2050, it is estimated, there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish. And so, watchmakers are bringing their creative thinking to conservation efforts, partnering with prominent marine scientists, conservationists and organisations doing important work for ocean protection. These philanthropic partnerships go beyond headline-friendly ‘greenwashing’: they are laser-focused on making a tangible change, raising awareness and providing much-needed financial support and publicity for often underfunded non-profits. Swiss watchmaker Oris, for example, is tackling the problem in three different ways, with a trio of limited-edition pieces that each puts a fresh twist on the legendary highperformance Aquis diver’s watch. WEIR & SONS 31

Oris’ Great Barrier Reef III is made in partnership with the Reef Restoration Foundation, which funds a coral-planting project off Fitzroy Island near Cairns – the gateway to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. The watch, which is water-resistant to 300 metres, features a gradient blue dial and an aqua blue ceramic insert in its unidirectional rotating diver’s bezel, recalling “the colours of the reef waters”. The The Oris Clean Ocean saw the brand team up with Pacific Garbage Screening, a visionary organisation that’s developing a plastic-fi plastic-filtering ltering prototype: a floating platform that collects plastic waste from the oceans. As a nod to this, a striking medallion made of recycled PET plastic is set into the watch’s caseback. And finally, there’s the Blue Whale limited edition, which is water-resistant to 500 metres, with a Swiss-made chronograph movement that powers the first ever Aquis ABOVE: Superocean 3, 6 and 9 chronograph dial Héritage Ocean Conservancy, layout. Fittingly, the caseback €5,800, Breitling carries an embossed blue ABOVE RIGHT: whale. The watch will only Great Barrier Reef Limited be available as part of the Edition III, €2,300, Oris Oris Ocean Trilogy set, which

GOOD AS GOLD

It’s not just watches that are working towards a better future. Chopard made headlines last year when it first became the fi rst luxury jeweller to commit to using 100 per cent ethical gold in both its jewellery and watches. This means all the gold Chopard uses is now responsibly sourced, either from small-scale, artisanal mines participating in Fairmined and Fairtrade schemes by the Swiss Better Gold Association or from mines certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council’s Chain-of-Custody Standard. Sustainability has been a core value of the family-run business for decades. Over 30 years ago, Chopard overhauled its

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comes in a striking presentation box made of recycled plastic. Limited to 200 sets worldwide, the 150th set will be exclusively available at Weir & Sons, in honour of the store’s 150th anniversary. Meanwhile, Breitling has

production processes, creating a rare in-house gold foundry. Those changes mean the company is now in a unique position to be able to control every part of a product’s journey, including the raw materials themselves. The luxury Swiss jeweller has played a crucial role in bringing more artisanal, ethical gold into the market. Six years ago, it began providing ﬁnancial and technical resources to organisations such as the Alliance for Responsible Mining, helping small-scale mining communities achieve Fairmined certiﬁcation, which allows them to sell their gold for fair prices – while ensuring that all mining meets strict environmental and social conditions.

introduced the Superocean Héritage Ocean Conservancy watch, which features a deep, inky blue ceramic infill that contrasts nicely against elegant two-tone straps. These are made from Econyl yarn, a material repurposed from nylon waste (one source of which is fishing nets from oceans) that is both durable and highly recyclable. It is housed in packaging entirely made from recycled materials, and a portion of sales will be donated to environmental advocacy group Ocean Conservancy. Breitling celebrated the launch with a beach clean-up in Bali, Indonesia, attended by US surfer and prominent environmental activist Kelly Slater, plus fellow world champion Stephanie Gilmore. “Beaches are, in effect, our offices,” joked Slater at the launch, where over 100kg of waste was collected. “What we have seen here, and on beaches and in oceans around the world, is shocking. But everyone can contribute to a cleaner environment – for ourselves and for future generations.” These campaigns, partnerships and technologies mark a huge cultural shift and a move towards an era when sustainable timepieces are the norm. “What we can change is the way we consume, the way we live, the choices of what we buy,” says Horn. “That’s our responsibility towards the planet.” WEIR.IE

For us, innovation must always serve function. For example, raising our bezel by 2mm has improved the grip. Just a little. When you care about watches, just a little matters a lot.

Aquis Date Relief

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 18k gold rope bracelet, €4,000, Weir Collection; 18k gold Bamboo bracelet, €2,850, Gucci; 9k gold twist bangle, €1,270, Weir Collection; 9k gold bangle, €890, Weir Collection; 18k gold bangle, €5,830, Roberto Coin OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT: Profili necklace, €9,375, FOPE; 9k gold oval bracelet, €2,950, Weir Collection; 18k gold link bracelet, €4,115, Roberto Coin; Zephyr necklace, €3,350, Georg Jensen; 18k gold curb link necklace, €7,995, Weir Collection

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WEIR.IE

If these

walls could Talk

Our foundations are built on discovering the finest treasures from the best makers. Meet just some of our latest jewellery and watches to love. Photography TREVOR HART Styling and Art Direction ELEANOR HARPUR

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Treillage pendant, €6,000, Fabergé; 18k white gold diamond and sapphire pendant, €35,180, Waskoll; 18k white gold diamond and aquamarine ring, €8,720, Weir Collection; sapphire and diamond platinum ring, €33,790, Weir Collection; 18k white gold diamond and aquamarine ring, €7,550, Weir Collection; platinum diamond band, €10,900, Weir Collection; platinum diamond ring, €57,600, Waskoll; platinum diamond ring, €67,500, Weir Collection 36 WEIR & SONS

WEIR.IE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Emerald and diamond brooch, €11,450, Weir Collection; 18k white gold emerald ring, €28,176, Weir Collection; 18k white gold diamond and emerald ring, €34,370, Weir Collection; platinum, diamond and tourmaline pendant, €69,500, Weir Collection; diamond and multi-stone necklace, €9,095, Weir Collection WEIR.IE

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Platinum diamond and black pearl brooch, €13,670, Mikimoto; freshwater pearl and smoky quartz necklace, €533, Weir Collection; 18k white gold black South Sea pearl necklace, €8,645, Mikimoto; 18k white gold pearl and diamond ring, €4,915, Mikimoto; 18k white gold diamond and South Sea pearl bangle, €6,080, Mikimoto

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: 18k white gold diamond and pearl pendant, €8,425, Weir Collection; 18k white gold ivory and rose South Sea, freshwater and Akoya cultured pearl necklace, €20,725, Yoko London; 9k gold cameo brooch, €585, Weir Collection; cameo brooch, €820, Weir Collection WEIR.IE

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Rainbow Bee Demi Parma Violet & Gold watch, €169, Olivia Burton; Lively watch, €216, Calvin Klein; Skinnoir watch, €105, Swatch; Classic Petite Melrose watch, €159, Daniel Wellington

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WEIR.IE

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Florals Blush & Rose Gold watch, €119, Olivia Burton; Classic brushed silver 11139404 watch, €99, Bering; Jillian watch, €239, Hugo Boss; Grand Atlantic watch, €239, Paul Hewitt

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Reverso Tribute Duoface, €11,700, Jaeger-LeCoultre; Golden Ellipse, €28,700, Patek Philippe; Santos de Cartier, €9,150, Cartier; Big Bang, €10,300, Hublot; Datejust 41, €6,900, Rolex; Reine de Naples, €35,900, Breguet

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Defy El Primero 21, €10,995, Zenith; PRC 200, €445, Tissot; PAM00616, €16,600, Panerai; HyperChrome, €2,995, Rado

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150 years of history in the making.

Passed on by generations from our family to yours. Since founding the business 150 years ago, Thomas Weir began his legacy to create the finest jewellery. Today, Weir & Sons is still dedicated to helping craft precious family memories to be treasured from one generation to the next. www.weir.ie

BUILT by TIME

The legacy of Weir & Sons not only goes back 150 years, but spans five generations. Jessie Collins charts a remarkable story of family, endurance and dynamism.

A STORE IS BORN

When Thomas Weir opened his first store on 3 Wicklow Street – the original outlet that was to expand and grow into the flagship store you see today – neighbouring Grafton Street had itself already undergone quite a transformation, evolving from a humble cattle track in the 1600s to a commanding, gentrified thoroughfare; one that was to become one of the first streets to be connected to electric light and therefore occupy a prize position in the city. Georgian houses lined either side, and the jeweller and goldsmith Thomas Weir, who established his business in 1869, had found himself in a position to expand his enterprise (it was then called The Goldsmith’s Hall), on the premises, while installing his growing family in the rooms upstairs. This new chapter would prove to be the most significant. Thomas Weir was a dynamic craftsman but also a prolific inventor, conjuring everything from a mudguard for boots to designs for an unsinkable battleship. His scope and ambition ranged far and wide. It resulted in The Goldsmith’s WEIR.IE

Thomas Weir, pictured at about the time of his move to Ireland in the 1860s

Hall becoming one of the best-loved jewellery destinations in the city by the time of his death in 1900. By then, his wife, Elizabeth, their four sons and one daughter had all relocated to a house in North Circular Road, but Thomas Weir’s sons showed just as much passion for the business. Just two years after their father’s death, they bought 5 Grafton Street, a separate space at the time, from which they could increase their trade. By 1906, with the growing silver department now at the core of the store, 2 Wicklow Street was added to the collection, with workrooms upstairs for repairing clocks, watches and jewellery, and a small workshop for making medals, chains and more modest pieces of silverware. But the brothers didn’t rest there. In 1910, they bought 96 Grafton Street, meaning that now Weir & Sons extended from 96 Grafton Street all the way around the corner to 1, 2 and 3 Wicklow Street. They soon added a store in Belfast and by 1920, there were Weir & Sons in London, Manchester, Cardiﬀ, Swansea, Nottingham, Worcester and Teignmouth. WEIR & SONS 45

FAMILIES WITHIN THE FAMILY

All through their rapidly evolving history, Weir & Sons has employed a range of salespeople and craftspeople, providing long-term, secure employment in the country at a time when there was little to be found. Many of those who worked for the company came from the same families. Sons often followed fathers, such as Billy McGarry, who worked alongside his father, Paddy, in the polishing department. Married couples and siblings also frequently worked alongside one another, with two sets of brothers called Paul and David working at the firm at the same time. Those who came to work for Weirs often found a home-from-home. The store’s archives are peppered with records of men and women who served for 40 or 50 years. Many joined straight from school and remained at Weirs for the rest of their working lives. Jim Weir, the eldest of Thomas’s sons, was well-established as the leading partner in the business by this time. A gregarious personality, he was both a dynamic businessman and a doting father, raising eight girls and two boys alongside his growing family enterprise. Head of the business for 50 years, he was known for his philanthropy and kindness. But if Jim had been the gregarious one, his brother, Thomas’s third son, was the canny one. Jack Weir oversaw much of the expansion of the business, meaning that by the late 1920s, Weir & Sons was one of the largest privately owned chains of jewellery stores in Britain or Ireland. Meanwhile, Willie Weir, the fourth son, had been carving out his own niche at the Grafton Street store in the silver department. He settled with his wife, Louie Gasking, in Killiney and had a daughter, Margaret, known as Maigread, in 1912. Politics in the country at the time was in turmoil, and it was Willie who was first to venture into the city to see what damage, if any, had been incurred by the store during the Easter Rising, which razed many businesses to the ground. Luckily, Grafton Street escaped relatively unscathed. Willie was known as a private, shy man, despite his renowned selling skills. He was also, like his brother Jim, a man of tremendous generosity. When their Killiney neighbour Arthur Andrews, a widowed banker originally from Tyrone, lost his home in a fire, Jim agreed to take Andrews’ four daughters in to live with him, while Arthur moved in with Willie and Louie. Out of this misfortune though came something much more positive, and in 1943 Arthur Andrews married Willie and Louie’s only daughter, Maigread Weir. They in turn had a son, David Andrews, who was to grow up to become the current Managing Director and Chairman of the family business.

Jack, Jim and Willie Weir, who each played a vital role in developing the family firm during the first 60 years of the 20th century

“By 1986, with a staff of 83, Weir & Sons was one of the largest single jewellery outlets in Europe” WEIR.IE

A NEW ERA BEGINS

On 15 May, 1967, David Andrews, great-grandson of the founder, Thomas Weir, and son of Arthur and Maigread Andrews, started work as a sales assistant in the jewellery department at Weir & Sons. The department was then headed by the brilliant Percy Pearson, who became something of a mentor to David. Over the next few years, David advanced quickly up the ranks, becoming Company Secretary in 1971. Having secured Weirs’ position as an exclusive stockist of Rolex, he was promoted to Sales Director in 1975. These were formative years in the Irish retail landscape, as membership of the EEC and an increase in tourism meant that Ireland began to rapidly evolve, both socially and economically. In 1976, he persuaded Cartier to come on board at Weir & Sons, after which TAG Heuer, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Baume et Mercier, Breitling, Gucci, Raymond Weil and Seiko followed suit. Known to the Weirs staﬀ as “D.A.”, David was appointed joint Managing Director of Weirs in 1978. In 1986, he was appointed Chairman and, with a combined staﬀ of 83, was now head of one of the largest single jewellery outlets in Europe. But you’d be wrong if you thought it was all work and no play. When David Andrews was not cutting deals with major watch brands, he was often to be found pursuing a lifelong passion for yachts, cars and motorbikes. He represented Ireland in both the Admiral’s Cup and the Sardinia Cup, and he sailed around Ireland with Duran Duran’s Simon Le Bon in the maxi yacht Drum. As an MG racer, he came second in class while driving an MG Midget in the 1970 Mugello Grand Prix over a 43-mile circuit at Scarperia e San Piero in Tuscany, Italy, and was also a Director of the Irish Motor Racing Club. In 1981, David married Catherine Hurley. Their three children, Chris, Lucinda and Natasha, now represent the fifth generation of this venerable family business.

GENERATION NEXT

Early memories of the Grafton Street store are woven into the childhoods of the three Andrews siblings. Chris Andrews WEIR & SONS 47

TREVOR HART

particularly recalls coming in to see his dad on Saturdays with his mum. “I remember coming through the jewellery department and thinking, ‘I really like this.’” As soon as he was able, he started working on the shop floor, earning pocket money during school holidays. By the time he left school, Chris’s mind was already set on the family business. After studying Business, Economics and Social Studies in Trinity, he spent a year doing a graduate gemology degree in California before the family business beckoned. “There was a lot going on in the business at the time so I came back to help out.” For her part, Lucinda Andrews remembers running between the cabinets on trips in to see her dad, before being seconded onto the shop floor during school and college holidays. She was also a student of Business, Economics and Social Studies, but it was London, rather than Grafton Street, that initially beckoned after her degree. While working in Harrods, her burgeoning marketing prowess was spotted, so when a Trade Marketing role came up in the emerging Harrods media department, she grabbed it with both hands. Looking after the Trade Marketing for Jewellery and Watches, which included the award-winning Harrods Magazine, provided the foundation for what was to become her pivotal role in Weir & Sons today. After several years in London, Dublin was luring her back and, in 2015, Lucinda became Marketing Manager of Weir & Sons. By this time, Chris had become Operations Director, overseeing refurbishments and upgrades to the store as well as responding to a fast-moving retail landscape, where a new digital age was 48 WEIR & SONS

Left to right: Chris, Lucinda, Catherine, David and Natasha Andrews

pushing the focus onto marketing and e-commerce. “We realised there was a need for a full-time marketing department in the company,” recalls Chris. “We also had to take the website more seriously.” So they split out the logistics and running of the website, and the overall marketing, with Chris taking the reins of the online and e-commerce aspects. Lucinda took over much of the business’s main marketing, also spearheading its social media channels — as well as overseeing this now biannual and award-winning publication. If the youngest sibling, Natasha, thought she was going to escape the business, then fate certainly had its own plan. With a business degree and digital marketing qualification under her belt, both Chris and Lucinda could spot the potential in adding her skills to the mix. Already a veteran of the shop floor, by the time Natasha officially joined the family business, she knew much of the stock off by heart, making her role across digital and Weir & Sons’ e-commerce site a natural fit. When not writing content for weir.ie or updating the blog, she can often be found with her head stuck in one of the goldsmiths’ books, poring over a rare gem or technique. So with the fifth generation now well-established, it seems this remarkable family story and historic business is showing no signs of slowing down. “We’ve always adapted to different times,” says Chris. “I’d like to see us continue to innovate; I never want to see the quality drop. I’d like to see more stores in the future. I want it to be of a scale that is manageable: that they are always places the customers are happy to come into, and that our staff are happy to work in.” WEIR.IE

THE OFFSPRING COLLECTION BY JACQUELINE RABUN

The Offspring collection is created by American designer Jacqueline Rabun, and it is inspired by the unbreakable bond and the unconditional love that exists between a mother and child. The exquisite gold and silver pieces serve as emotional reminders to cherish the ones close to your heart. W W W.W E I R . I E

GO DEEPER PROMASTER AQUALAND

GO HIGHER

PROMASTER ALTICHRON

GO FURTHER PROMASTER SKYHAWK A . T

CITIZEN celebrates 30 years of Promaster, our collection of professional-grade sports watches with an appeal for the everyday adventurer. Looking to the past, we reflect on our rich history of timekeeping innovation. Promaster has always been inspired by great adventures, with the highest levels of functionality and endurance for each category in Land, Marine and Sky. As time moves forward, CITIZEN continues its tradition of bold innovation in technology and style.

SECOND to NONE

Weir & Sons isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only one celebrating this year, writes Nathalie Marquez Courtney. From movements that helped astronauts keep time on the moon to divisive design icons worn by superstars, meet some venerated brands celebrating big birthdays in 2019.

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Steve McQueen and Swiss F1 driver Jo Siffert during the making of Le Mans, 1971

n a warren of quiet, sun-soaked rooms, a storey or two above the lively hustle and bustle of Dublin’s Grafton Street, lie the Weir & Sons jewellery and watch repair workshops. This is where time is fixed. How ironic, then, that time seems to stand still here. Beautifully crafted watches are lined up on wooden counters, twinkling in the light. Artisan craftsmen are bent studiously over workbenches. Their tools are traditional ones, many of them several decades old. A love of watches and watchmaking has been at the heart of Weir & Sons since the very beginning. Thomas Weir, who founded the company in 1869, had inherited a wealth of skills and knowledge from his watchmaker brother James Weir. Now, 150 years later, the jeweller will be stocking an exciting host of commemorative and celebratory pieces from notable brands in the watch world that are also marking anniversaries this year. Many of these limited-edition collections champion and embody the quality and craftsmanship for which Weir & Sons has become known.

TIME AFTER TIME

A perfect example of this tireless devotion to craft is Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko. Twenty years ago, Grand Seiko launched one of its most innovative pieces to date: the Grand Seiko Spring Drive. A feat of innovative design and mechanical engineering that allowed for a smooth, elegant sweep of the seconds hand around the dial, it has been described as a quintessentially Japanese timepiece. “Japan’s history is very old, so time moves slowly for us,” explains Yoshifusa Nakazawa, a master craftsman at the Micro Artist Studio, where the Spring Drives are made. Fusing the quality of modern quartz precision with kinetic power generation and the torque of a mechanical piece, it is one of the most significant developments in luxury watchmaking. Nakazawa ABOVE: The describes the iconic smooth sweep as “like being able to feel the 20th Anniversary natural slow flow of time”. Spring Drive, This year, the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive is marked with €5,000, Grand a new four-watch series of slim, manual-winding dress pieces. Part Seiko. BELOW: The Monaco of the Grand Seiko Elegance collection, all four beautifully crafted 1969–1979 watches feature hand-wound Spring Drive movements. Limited Edition, Like all Grand Seiko watches, each timepiece is assembled €5,250, TAG by a single watchmaker. Two of the new watches are cased in Heuer platinum and feature a new movement, the Caliber 9R02, which delivers an impressive power reserve of 84 hours. One of the pieces is itself a celebration of the ingenuity and

“Omega made headlines when it announced the comeback of the famous Calibre 321” 52 WEIR & SONS

craftsmanship of the Micro Artist Studio – the dial features the celebrated ‘Snowflake’ pattern which is “inspired by the beauty of the snow in the Shinshu region”, where the studio is located. Limited to an edition of just 30, these pieces can come with an 18k gold plaque engraved with either the words ‘Micro Artist’ or the owner’s own name.

KING OF COOL

Of course, not all new pieces are instant hits. In the spring of 1969, a design icon was launched – though many didn’t realise it at the time. By their very nature, iconic designs are often disruptive to the status quo, showcasing something new and innovative that can leave opinions divided when they first hit the market. It can take time for a new design to come into its own and be appreciated for the forward-thinking piece that it is. This is certainly true of the TAG Heuer Monaco. At joint press conferences in New York and Geneva, the radical Heuer Monaco (TAG was not part of the company name at the time) was announced. It featured pioneering new technology – the first water-resistant square case and the first automatic chronograph – and the team had decided to highlight these innovations with an equally groundbreaking, eye-catching design: a metallic blue dial, red and light blue hands, left-hand-side crown placement and, of course, that distinctive square case, a design not usually seen outside of dress watches. Reviews were mixed: famously, not even Jack Heuer, then CEO of Heuer, was a fan. But the Monaco’s brave, original allure won out. Fifty years later, its status as a classic design of its time and coveted collector’s item is firmly cemented, and it is without doubt one of TAG Heuer’s most iconic and recognisable watches. WEIR.IE

Industrial design and fashion come together in our pocket-sized essentials secrid

secrid

To celebrate, five limited-edition pieces will be launched this year. The first, the Monaco 1969–1979 Limited Edition, was aptly launched at the 2019 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix. Featuring a calfskin leather strap, stainless steel case and a retro ’70s-inspired palette of greens, browns and yellows, it is limited to just 169 pieces. The four companion pieces are due to be announced with events across Europe, the US and Asia throughout the year. Alongside the new editions will be a book, Paradoxical Superstar, which delves into the history of the Monaco, sharing never-before-seen archival pictures, sketches and the story behind how it came to be worn on the wrist of its most famous wearer, Steve McQueen.

TO THE MOON AND BACK

Sometimes it’s not just the watch, but where it was worn, that helps earn its place in history. Earlier this year, Omega made headlines in the horological world when it announced the comeback of the famous Calibre 321, the legendary Speedmaster movement that was used in the Speedmaster Professionals sourced by NASA for the Apollo missions to the moon. Often called “a movement lover’s movement”, the legendary column-wheel chronograph is spoken of wistfully and longingly by watch fans, and is highly sought after by collectors around the world. Working under the code name ‘Alaska 11’ (a nod to the original code names used when developing designs for NASA in the ’60s and ’70s), a team of researchers, historians, craftsmen and watchmakers toiled in total secrecy for two years to bring the iconic movement back to life, more than 50 years after the last Calibre 321 was produced. Cutting-edge digital scanning technology was used to see inside the Speedmaster ST 105.003, which features the second-generation 321 movement, and was the actual timepiece worn by astronaut Eugene “Gene” Cernan on the moon during the Apollo 17 mission in 1972. The pieces are being produced within a dedicated Calibre 321 workshop in Omega’s HQ in Bienne, Switzerland, with movement, watch head and bracelet assembly all being performed by the same watchmaker.

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FROM THE FIRST

ABOVE RIGHT: El Primero 50th Anniversary box edition, €45,00, featuring the Chronograph 38mm tribute watch, above, Zenith. BELOW: Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8, €9,400, Omega

Also in 1969, Swiss watchmaker Zenith made history with its own first: the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph – still one of the most precise series-made chronographs to this day. It has evolved constantly over the years, with additional complications, materials and technological advances; there are now more than two dozen diﬀerent versions. And this year, for the first time, Zenith is set to issue a tribute to the original. It is part of a 50-piece limited-edition trilogy, and the design and engineering team went to incredible lengths to remain true to the first El Primero – laser scanning an original model so they could recreate as high-fidelity a reissue as possible. It’s all there – from the 38mm steel case with leather strap, curved glass with magnifying eﬀect and tricolour counters to the font and even the exact shapes of the hands and hour markers. There are a few minor tweaks: the previously solid back is now a sapphire viewing window, the crown logo has been updated, and under the hood beats the current version of the El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement – vibrating at a rate of 36,000VpH, delivering 1/10th-of-a second precision as well as a 50-hour power reserve. The boxed set of three El Primero anniversary watches has been described as a “museum in miniature”, tracking the technical and aesthetic evolution of the piece over the last half-a-century. Nestled inside the sleek grey leather presentation box (itself a stunning collector’s piece, housing a miniature watchmaker’s workbench complete with a watch mechanism on a rest, adjustable lighting system, magnifying glass and screwdriver) is an actual manufacturing die of the chronograph’s bridge, which serves as an invitation to visit the Zenith manufacture and see the El Primero movements and watches being made. Tantalisingly, the box also contains an empty slot for an additional watch, designed to accommodate a 1/1,000th-of-asecond El Primero chronograph, to be released at some point in the future. We don’t know when that might be – but you can be almost certain that you will find it in Weir & Sons when it is… WEIR.IE

PHOTO RETOUCHÉE

#lovemyantares

Antarès with interchangeable straps

Ready, Set,

ACTION

There is a new wave of sports watches that draws on the best watchmaking traditions while incorporating the latest in cutting-edge technology for superb performance, writes Jillian Bolger.

hey’ve orbited Earth and been weightless in outer space. They’ve plumbed the depths of the deep blue sea and helped break records. They’ve summited mountains, navigated oceans, guided planes, accompanied tours of duty and co-ordinated expeditions. And today the sports watch is as much a style statement as it is an invaluable life tool. Robust, refined, and always at the vanguard of the latest technology, sports watches are built for accuracy, while bringing together the finest in precision movements to measure a combination of speed, height, and depth. With their origins in aviation, pre-dating – and, in many ways, informing – cockpit instruments, pilot watches and dive watches have evolved to play a key role in the military, scientific, exploratory and athletic fields. In many ways, the story of these iconic watches shadows the adventures and endeavours of humankind, on and off planet Earth. Essential equipment for all great voyages, no explorer, athlete, daredevil or adventurer worth their salt would leave home without one. And from Breitling to Montblanc, Omega to Citizen, 2019 has seen new editions that hark back to the classics while delivering thoroughly modern appeal. The question is, which one is right for your next mission?

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Seamaster Planet Ocean, €6,300, Omega

OMEGA SEAMASTER Omega’s Seamaster collection offers an impressive range of diver watches, crafted expertly in beautiful materials. Its Seamaster Planet Ocean is a favourite, with a dynamic new look that updates this sporty, ready-for-action design from 2005. Reprising that signature pop of colour, this striking model boasts a smart orange ceramic bezel ring. The more classic Seamaster Planet Ocean watch comes with a white ceramic dial, date window and brushed stainless steel bracelet, while the Planet Ocean chronograph stands out with its ceramised titanium dial and edgy grey, white and orange five-stripes NATO strap in polyamide. Water-resistant to 600 metres, the Planet Ocean has a power reserve of 60 hours and a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal face with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, offering excellent underwater legibility. WEIR.IE

“Built for accuracy, sports watches bring together the finest in precision movements” MONTBLANC 1858

1858 Géosphère, €6,100, Montblanc

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Reinterpreting the Minerva pocket watches and chronographs of the 1920s and 1930s – which were designed for military and mountaineers – Montblanc’s revamped 1858 collection offers modern precision movements with striking vintage aesthetics. The distinctive khaki styling and innovative complications come with a mix of carefully selected materials and a choice of different case sizes. Celebrating the spirit of mountain expeditions, the collection also commemorates the 160th anniversary of Minerva. (The 1858 name pays tribute to the founding date of the Minerva manufacture; Montblanc wasn’t founded until 1906.) A standout piece from the bold range is the 1858 Géosphère, dedicated to the Seven Summits Challenge, the holy grail of climbers; so far, fewer than 500 climbers have managed to reach the highest peak on each continent. And to make sure this updated timepiece can take the pressure in such environments, all Montblanc 1858s undergo more than 500 hours of simulated wear, with specific testing and controls under extreme conditions. The Géosphère is also water-resistant to 100 metres.

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THE SPORTS WATCH TIMELINE

CITIZEN PROMASTER SERIES Citizen celebrates the 30th anniversary of Promaster, its flagship sports watch series. Sports professionals and adventurers alike can choose from three subcollections – Promaster Sky, Land and Marine – each with its own unique design, and unparalleled precision and safety features. It’s got environmental swagger too, with Citizen using Promaster’s anniversary to celebrate some of sustainability’s unsung heroes. With a look inspired by flight instruments, Navihawk A-T from the Promaster Sky collection is an authentic pilot’s watch with a rugged case, bold face design and comprehensive specifications with aviation scale. Lightpowered and with radio-controlled atomic timekeeping, it stays on-time, all the time. Travellers and mountaineers will fall for Altichron, from the Promaster Land collection – a rugged and robust watch that’s powered by light. Its electronic compass sits alongside an analogue altimeter that measures from -300m below sea level up to 10,000m above ground. Once activated, Altichron will display time and altitude simultaneously without user intervention – keeping the climber’s hands free for more important matters. For marine enthusiasts, Promaster Aqualand is an authentic light-powered 200m diver’s watch with rapid-ascent alarm and exclusively designed analogue depth meter which displays depth to 70m. Added to its high performance in challenging conditions, its stylish size and colour tones ensure its sleek fashion credentials.

Promaster Navihawk A-T, €625, Citizen

BREITLING NAVITIMER 1 B01 CHRONOGRAPH 43 PAN AM EDITION

Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 43 Pan Am Edition, €8,200, Breitling

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Swiss watchmaker Breitling recently launched a capsule collection of timepieces. The Navitimer 1 Airline Editions celebrate the golden era of aviation while the Pan Am edition evokes all the romanticism and excitement of air travel with which the legendary American airline is associated. Coming in a stainless steel case with a blue dial, silver subdials, and a stainless steel mesh bracelet, it joins Swissair and TWA in Breitling’s capsule collection of airline editions. The in-house mechanical chronograph movement delivers both remarkable precision and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The watch commemorates Pan Am as one of the trailblazing airlines that played an important role in the emergence of commercial flight in the 20th century.

1889 Léon Breitling is granted a patent for his simplified chronograph pocket watch, which quickly becomes favoured by many military, scientific and athletic organisations 1896 Breitling introduces two chronograph pocket watches accurate to within two-fifths of a second, with a unique reset button 1904 Pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont asks watchmaker Louis Cartier to develop an alternative to the pocket watch so Cartier develops a watch with a leather band and buckle that can be worn on the wrist 1909 Louis Blériot becomes the first man to fly across the English Channel; he wears a Zenith wristwatch, with a black face and large white numbers that are easy to see at a glance – it has an oversized crown, for easy adjustment while wearing gloves 1915 Breitling produces its first chronograph wristwatch; featuring a separate button beside the crown to independently operate the stopwatch functions, it proves invaluable to aviators in calculating distance and landing times – pilots can measure several consecutive timing operations in a row without having to reset the hands 1926 Hans Wilsdorf develops the Rolex Oyster, the world’s first water-resistant, and dustproof, wristwatch (it is publicly tested by endurance swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, who swims across the freezing English Channel in 10 hours, wearing it on a chain around her neck) 1932 Omega becomes the first company to commercially produce a diving watch – the Omega Marine is tested on the wrist of famous explorer Charles William Beebe, surviving a water depth of 14 metres 1953 Rolex launches the Submariner, the first diver’s wristwatch water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres; its engraved 60-minute graduation allows a diver to monitor diving time and decompression stops accurately and safely 1962 The first James Bond movie, Dr. No, shows 007 wearing a Rolex Submariner 1969 Buzz Aldrin’s Omega Speedmaster becomes the first watch on the moon, on the Apollo 11 mission (Neil Armstrong leaves his watch inside the lunar module, as the electronic timer had malfunctioned onboard) WEIR.IE

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A BRIEF HISTORY 150 YEARS IN TIME

Weir & Sons’ 150-year history intertwines with a century-and-a-half of some of the most profound developments in watchkeeping. Leslie Williams charts the evolution of the watch since the first Weir & Sons store opened – from the big moments on the world stage to the important milestones for this landmark store.

Weirs’ employees photographed in the Service Department above the Grafton Street store during the 1950s. Photograph: Harry Hewson

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hen the first mechanical clocks appeared in Europe around the 14th century, it was largely monks who first perfected the intricacies of keeping time. It was an era that saw the first emperor of the Ming dynasty, and the Hundred Years’ War break out between England and France. It wasn’t until the 15th century, though, that the first watches appeared and, as the first printing press arrived, a mainspring with minimised parts for timekeeping was devised, paving the way for the domestic clock to be produced at scale. By 1601, the Foundation of the Genevan Corporation of Watchmakers was created, as construction on both the Palace of Versailles and the Taj Mahal began. Watchmaking had already begun to spread across Europe – an early industry from which Weir & Sons founder Thomas Th omas Weir was himself to emerge, as his family had begun making timepieces from at least Though Thomas 1690. Th ough Th omas Weir’s own speciality was jewellery, watches were an integral part of Weir & Sons from the

1869 Thomas Weir establishes his business in Dublin, having moved from Glasgow, when the London Underground was just two years old

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moment he opened the Wicklow Street store in 1883. In those early years, the watches he sold were made in-house and had ‘Weir’ on the dial, and they continued to be manufactured throughout those early decades. With a new century born and an industrial revolution fully under way, the early 20th century saw watchmaking embark on some of its most radical evolutions yet. In 1904, as James Joyce had his first date with Nora Barnacle, in Paris, Louis-François Cartier was creating what is largely held as the first ever purpose-built wristwatch. The Santos de Cartier was invented for the pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont while he attempted to make aviation history. It was a watch that, 15 years later, led to Cartier’s Tank, inspired by the tanks of World War I. Rolex was founded in London the following year, in 1905, and by 1926 the company had created the waterproof Oyster wristwatch. It was a time of great invention, the same year John Logie Baird demonstrated his ‘televisor’ system for viewing broadcast images. Meanwhile, Dublin was emerging from the birth throes of a newly created state, with Grafton Street cementing itself as its beating commercial heart. Here, at the Grafton Street store, Weir Weir’s was now Weir & Sons, and the business created the first first Aga Khan Trophy for the Nations Cup show in the RDS.

1883 Thomas Weir opens on Wicklow Street, in the store’s current location; he is soon joined by his children

Weir & Sons was still concentrating on its own watch brand during the 1920s, when Michael Collins is said to have bought one for Kitty Kiernan as an informal engagement present. Elsewhere, Swiss watch innovation was continuing to push boundaries and, in 1929, Jaeger-LeCoultre revealed the world’s smallest movement in the Calibre 101 – comprising 74 parts and weighing less than one gramme – while simultaneously introducing the Atmos clock, which runs solely on changes in air pressure. During the 1930s, Weir & Sons sold Rotary watches as part of a scheme with Player Wills cigarettes. Later that decade, a historic partnership began as it became the first store in the country to stock the legendary Swiss watchmaker Rolex – a brand whose reputation would only continue to grow throughout the 20th century, catapulted by the creation of its masterpiece, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual selfwinding watch, in 1931. In 1933, Adolf Hitler became Chancellor of the German Reich. Meanwhile, as President Roosevelt repealed Prohibition in the US, the watch world was heralding a new innovation as the Incabloc shock absorption system received its patent, as did Breitling for a two-button chronograph. During the years of World War II, watches became hugely important as navigation aids for pilots and as tools for combatants. In the post-

1926 Rolex creates the waterproof Oyster watch; Weir & Sons becomes the first store in Ireland to stock Rolex just a few years later

1943 Maigread Weir, granddaughter of Thomas Weir, marries Arthur Andrews – their son David Andrews is head of present-day business at Weirs

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“As Joyce had his first date with Nora Barnacle, Cartier was creating the first wristwatch”

war years following the invention of scuba diving, a waterproof watch also became essential for survival. In 1953, Rolex launched the Submariner, the first watch to be water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres. Just a few years later, in 1956, JaegerLeCoultre released the first self-winding alarm watch – the Memovox – which lives on in the modern JLC Polaris collection. Meanwhile, Elvis become a global star, scoring his first international No. 1 hit with ‘Heartbreak Hotel’. In the 1960s, the Space Race began in earnest. In August 28, 1963, Martin Luther King Jr took to the steps of the Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC and gave his historic ‘I Have a Dream’ speech, wearing his Rolex Datejust. As 1966 arrived, London was christened ‘The Swinging City’ by Time magazine. Weir & Sons had begun its enduring relationship with Patek Philippe, while the first self-winding chronographs were released by TAG Heuer and Breitling, and in Zenith’s El Primero. In 1970, Omega’s Beta 1 – the first massproduced quartz movement – was released, and Apollo 13, the seventh manned mission to the moon, was aborted due to an oxygen tank explosion. Famously, the astronauts were forced to time their re-entry to Earth’s atmosphere using the chronographs on their trusty Omega Speedmasters.

1970 The Omega Speedmaster plays a crucial role in assisting the Apollo 13 mission crew to return safely to Earth

1969 Weir & Sons celebrates 100 years in business and Apollo 11 lands on the moon with the astronauts all wearing Omega Speedmaster watches

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By 1973, Weir & Sons cemented its reputation with a bold move initiated by fourth-generation chairman and managing director David Andrews, who secured exclusive rights to sell Rolex watches in Dublin. Andrews followed this coup a couple of years later by signing an exclusive deal with Cartier, and Weirs remains the only outlet in the Republic of Ireland to stock the brand today. By 1978, quartz watches had overtaken mechanical watches in sales and Concorde had flown its first supersonic flight. Ronald Reagan was elected US president in 1980 and, in 1982, Swatch watches were launched in the States, a moment that would prove pivotal in the revival of the Swiss watch industry. The iconic Weir & Sons red box first appeared in 1994. It was also the time when the words ‘internet’ and ‘world wide web’ began to enter the general lexicon. And by the early 2000s, it was proving a revolutionary force, with companies like Amazon and eBay weathering the initial dotcom collapse. Meanwhile, the first light non-magnetic silicon wristwatch escapements

1973 Weir & Sons gains exclusive rights to sell Rolex watches in Dublin at the initiation of David Andrews

were being developed by Breguet and others. In 2005, Grand Seiko launched the Spring Drive Kinetic, the first self-winding mechanical watch with an electromagnetic escapement. Also that year, Weir & Sons opened its second store, as a flagship tenant in the newly built Dundrum Town Centre. In 2013, Swatch introduced the Sistem51, the world’s first mechanical movement made entirely by machine, containing 51 components held together by a single screw. In 2014, the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication pocket watch (1933) sold for $24 million, making it the most expensive watch ever sold, and by 2015, as watch brands began to further open up to the possibilities of a wider global audience, Weir & Sons launched a fully transactional online store, weir.ie. By 2018, as the legacy of mechanical timekeeping moved into its eighth century, many of the big watch houses were celebrating landmark moments – with updates to iconic pieces such as Omega’s Seamaster and Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse, notching up 50 years since its first edition. And so, to 2019 – as Ireland marks its War of Independence centenary – Weir & Sons celebrates 150 years of success as a remarkable fifth generation takes the helm to see it into a bright future.

2014 The Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication pocket watch (1933) sells for $24 million, the most expensive watch ever sold

1976 Weirs signs an exclusivity deal with Cartier and remains the only outlet in the Republic of Ireland to stock the brand 1978–1983 Quartz watches begin to outsell mechanical watches but the Swiss industry starts to turn around with the launch of Swatch prototypes in 1982

2005 Weir & Sons opens in Dundrum Centre

2017 Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona goes for $17.75 million at Phillips auction house in New York, the highest price ever paid for a wristwatch to date

2019 Weir & Sons celebrates 150 years and launches a commemorative watch with Patek Philippe

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ULTRA SLEEK ULTRA MODERN

PAUL NEWMAN Actor and race-car driver Paul Newman was frequently photographed wearing a 1968 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona — a gift from his wife, actress Joanne Woodward. Since dubbed ‘the Paul Newman’, the watch is noteworthy for its link to the world of motor racing, allowing drivers to measure elapsed time and read average speeds. Newman’s own watch sold for $17,800,000 in 2017 — a record at auction. The owner, James Cox, a former boyfriend of Newman’s daughter Nell, is said to have donated a significant portion of the hammer price to the Nell Newman Foundation to support the continuation of her father’s philanthropic work.

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WATCH STARS

From Elvis’ Omega Constellation to Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona, Annmarie O’Connor clocks up some of the world’s most famous watch wearers and the timepieces that defined them.

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RUB RA UIBYAT A I YAT D I AD MIO AN MD OND

ant to know what makes a celebrity tick? Simple. Take a look at their watch. More than just a way to tell the time, each timepiece tells a story of the times: a glimpse into the lives and legacies of the biggest names that have shaped contemporary culture. From politicians to actors, rock stars to rappers, we celebrate the horological hotshots and fashion firsts that made the big time.

ELVIS PRESLEY Time is money in the world of show business, particularly if you are Elvis Presley. Perhaps that’s why the King of Rock ’n’ Roll had such an extensive watch collection. Recently sold at auction for a cool $1,812,500, an 18k white gold, diamond-bezel Omega Constellation was gifted to The King in 1961 by record company RCA, as he was the first artist in history to sell 75 million records. Known to share his wealth with family, friends and fans, the Tennessee-based star gifted members of his ‘Memphis Mafia’ entourage with Bulova watches (the Accutron and Accuquartz, in particular) from his personal collection — a stage favourite worn during his 1970s Vegas residency.

QUEEN ELIZABETH II Her Majesty the Queen received a Calibre 101 diamond-set timepiece from Jaeger-LeCoultre to mark her 2012 Diamond Jubilee — the 60-year anniversary of her reign. Set with a sapphire dial and 576 baguette diamonds in white gold, the watch comprises 98 minuscule parts. Its weight? Just under one gramme, making it the smallest mechanical movement in the world. Having worn the original 101 timepiece to her 1953 coronation, Elizabeth II was quite the vanguard, choosing a brand that championed female emancipation in an era when it was deemed unseemly for women to be seen checking the time. RICHARD NIXON Master of timing, Swiss brand Omega has pioneered many firsts, not least of which is the Speedmaster. Known also as the ‘Moonwatch’, Omega created a limited-edition gold version in 1969 to commemorate the Apollo 11 moon landing, with a total production of only 1,014 pieces. United States president Richard Nixon received the first watch, WEIR.IE

engraved with his name and the text “To mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time”, but reportedly refused the gift as its value was too high official for an elected offi cial to accept. OPRAH WINFREY Media mogul and force of nature Oprah Winfrey is a busy woman. It stands to reason, therefore, that all elements of her life work in harmony, including her watches. A fan of the Rado True Thinline watch, Winfrey included the ultra-slim ceramic five style (only fi ve millimetres thick) in

her 2013 O, The Oprah Magazine ‘Favourite Things’ list for Christmas. The iconic watch is hypoallergenic, lightweight and versatile. MARTIN LUTHER KING JR The Rolex Datejust is fittingly synonymous with the civil rights activist and Nobel Peace Prize winner Reverend Dr Martin Luther King Jr. During World War II, the Swiss watchmakers openly supported Allied forces battling Hitler’s fascist armies: a fearless act given their country’s political neutrality. Similarly, it is believed that King wore his gold Rolex (ref. 1601), with its fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet, during his August WEIR & SONS 67

rumoured multi-million-dollar collection contains a white gold ref. 5970G and a ref. 5164A Aquanaut Travel Time.

1963 ‘I Have a Dream’ speech in front of the Lincoln Memorial. Equal parts enduring and distinguished, the Datejust, like King, retains a quiet integrity that spans eras. SYLVESTER STALLONE It is said that the Panerai Luminor watch has star power. Or, at least, that’s what action movie legend Sylvester Stallone is believed to have said. The actor became acquainted with the Italian official brand and offi cial supplier to the Italian Navy when preparing for the 1996 movie Daylight in Rome. Not only did he wear it in the film (and 2010’s The Expendables), he also partnered with the brand on a limited-edition ‘Slytech’ capsule of Mare Nostrum and Submersible models engraved with his signature — gifts he gave to movie crew and friends. JOHN MAYER It’s no secret that John Mayer is a watch nerd — and proudly so. He contributes to the cult watch site Hodinkee and has been on the jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. His timepiece of choice? Patek Philippe. After a decade of collecting, he was established enough to ask the Geneva-based watchmaker to create pieces for him by request. His

ELLEN DEGENERES prolificc Patek Philippe Mayer’s prolifi collection is rivalled by that of talk show host Ellen DeGeneres. She is often seen sporting the Swiss brand on her wrist, including a stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with silver opaline dial (pictured); a Nautilus Annual Calendar Chronograph in stainless steel; a rose gold Grand Complications ref. 5204/1R-001 complete with Goutte bracelet; and an Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A featuring a ‘Tropical’ strap — Mr Mayer, sir, you have company. JACQUELINE KENNEDY ONASSIS & JFK The Cartier Tank holds a unique place in the Kennedy family dynasty. John F. Kennedy was wearing his 18k gold alligator-strap Tank on the day he was assassinated. Jackie Kennedy was also gifted an 18k gold model with lizard strap and cabochon sapphire crown. Her Tank, a present from her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw Radziwill, met a different fate. The timepiece sold for $379,500 at a 2017 Christie’s auction. The reported buyer? The unofficial First Lady of reality TV — Kim Kardashian.

JAY-Z An avid watch collector, rap iconoclast Jay-Z’s tastes range from the urbane to the urban, showing an equally strong affinity for Swiss luxury brands Jaeger-LeCoultre and Hublot. His JLC Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 sits well with a tux, whether at the Grammys or performing at Carnegie Hall. An homage to the original Reverso, designed in its namesake year to prevent rogue polo balls from damaging the watches of British Army officers, the clever case flips back to front to hide, and thus protect, the crystal dial. The 2.0 version maintains many of the original

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THE LIFE AND TIMES OF CELEBRITY WATCHES The Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona was borrowed from a Singaporean collector and featured in the 2018 film Crazy Rich Asians In season two of Mad Men, Don Draper started wearing a gold JaegerLeCoultre Reverso after becoming a partner at Sterling Cooper The Rolex Datejust has been worn by political leaders such as US president Dwight D. Eisenhower, British prime minister Winston Churchill, and Hillary Rodham Clinton Fans of the Cartier Tank watch include novelist Truman Capote, dancer Fred Astaire, artist Andy Warhol, designer Tom Ford and rock legend Mick Jagger Patek Philippe has been the watch of choice for royalty such as Britain’s Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, Christian IX and Princess Louise of Denmark, and Victor Emmanuel III of Italy Apollo 15 astronaut Dave Scott famously wore a Bulova chronograph on the moon in 1971, which sold at auction for $1,625,000 The Hublot 44mm $5 million flagship Big Bang watch boasts 1,282 diamonds totalling 140 carats

characteristics, with sleek updates to reflect its playfully polished image. It must be hard to buy presents for this man, even if you’re his wife, Beyoncé. It’s understandable then that the pop diva allegedly chose a diamond edition of the 44mm Hublot flagship Big Bang, given Jay-Z’s successful 2013 Shawn Carter by Hublot collaboration. At $5,000,000, it is one of the most expensive watches ever produced — requiring 12 diamond cutters, five jewellery setters, a master cutter with 40 years’ experience, and 14 months to complete.

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D I S COV E R T H E C L A S S I C B R AC E L E T C O L L E C T I O N A N D C L A S S I C R I N G CO L L E C T I O N

WAT C H E S & AC C E S S OR I E S

AVA I L A B L E E X C L U S I V E LY T O W E I R & S O N S . 96 ï&#x161;º 9 9 G R A F T O N S T R E E T A N D D U N D R U M T O W N C E N T R E .

DESIGNS for LIFE Some of jewellery’s leading lights have created special pieces to honour this remarkable moment in the history of the store. Here they explain the inspiration behind them.

NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY

CHUPI SWEETMAN-PELL

Irish jewellery designer Chupi’s own ethos is one very much in harmony with Weir & Sons. Making jewellery that marks moments, tells stories and will be heirlooms of the future has always been central to this growing Irish brand. Now a thriving business and still handmade here, Chupi chose an elegant gold disc for her celebratory piece, setting it with precious emeralds to evoke the green theme inspired by the store archives and a connection to the Irish landscape. For her part, the jewellery designer grew up peering into the windows of the Weir & Sons Grafton Street store, so finding herself now a prized designer within it has been a dream realised. “Every Christmas I would walk down Grafton Street with my Mum and I always loved to peek into the beautiful Weirs windows. Weirs are an Irish icon, a bastion of all that is wonderful about Ireland. It’s been an honour to create a bespoke necklace set with tiny emeralds to celebrate their 150th anniversary.”

Chupi for Weir & Sons solid gold disc set with three emeralds, €739

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SHAUN LEANE

IAN WINSTANLEY

For his part, Shaun Leane based his celebratory creation on a seminal piece in his collection, his Hook earrings. “As this is such a special anniversary for Weir & Sons,” says Leane, “I wanted to create a piece that echoes our history and signature, and demonstrates the longevity and presence of such a wonderful store. Their silhouette harks back to one of the first pieces I made for Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer ‘96 show ‘The Hunger’. This is where I first established my handwriting in my work and it is still recognisable today in all of my designs.” Leane chose to set the earrings with tsavorite, referencing the verdant green anniversary theme, and crafting a piece of timeless design. “This particular shape and style to me is very fluid and conveys a sense of grace,” says Leane, “but at the same time creates a powerful silhouette. It embodies the woman I design for, who is elegant, confident with an edge of exploration and daring.”

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Shaun Leane for Weir & Sons 150 silver hook tsavorite earrings, €440

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Where your gifts of today become the heirlooms of tomorrow

www.weir.ie

Paul Costelloe for Weir & Sons sterling silver Star necklace with cubic zirconia, €140

PAUL COSTELLOE

DEBBIE BRAGG

To celebrate the 150th birthday of Weir & Sons, designer Paul Costelloe created a limited-edition necklace to mark this momentous occasion. The sterling silver and cubic zirconia Star necklace represents beauty, longevity and dreams. It is flanked by two emerald green stones, evoking the store’s own unique heritage. “As a child growing up in Dublin, Weir & Sons was always an iconic establishment for its amazing location, wonderful creativity and its magical experience for many generations. It’s an honour to create a piece to celebrate their 150th birthday and I feel immensely proud to be part of this great institution.”

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CROWNING

JEWELS

18k white gold and tsavorite necklace, â&#x201A;Ź89,635, Weir Collection

To celebrate its 150-year history, Weir & Sons has created a commemorative collection of jewellery that combines some of the rarest gems with the finest craftsmanship, in a colour that has its place at the heart of the family businessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s story, writes Jessie Collins. 76 WEIR & SONS

hen the Weir & Sons team were considering how to mark their impending 150th anniversary, they were sure of one thing. The occasion would be immortalised in a collection of fine jewellery that would both distil and celebrate all the generations of knowledge and expertise that have become synonymous with the business, as well as embody the kind of timeless glamour that is so much a part of its history. But how does a store so associated with marking momentous occasions for others go about commemorating its own? The first piece of jewellery to be commissioned for the collection captures all of these elements and more, with one of the rarest and most precious gemstones at its heart. A stone whose vibrant green colour evokes the original Weir & Sons Grafton Street store awnings and its original packaging. Tsavorite is beloved among jewellers and gemologists for its clarity, brilliance and strength. A thousand times rarer than emeralds, it is one of the scarcest in the gem world. And it was the tireless collection of 49 of these stones over 15 years by famed German jewellers Hans D. Krieger that gave Weir & Sons the centrepiece for its commemorative jewellery collection. WEIR.IE

Tsavorites were originally discovered in Tanzania in 1967 by British geologist Campbell R. Bridges. They were named after the Tsavo National Park in Kenya, and these new stones were found to be much more hardwearing than other green gems. The challenge for Hans D. Krieger was to create a ‘wow piece’ for Weir & Sons that would display these rare beauties to the greatest eﬀect. The world-famous diamond and gemstone experts set about crafting the stones into a decadent drop necklace, pairing the pristine green tsavorites with 18-carat, round-cut diamonds set into perfect white gold. The forty-nine 29.24-carat tsavorites are so pure, they require no enhancements or altering in any shape or form, just a polishing to bring out their deep green iridescence and glow. Yet the deceptively simple, elegant design belies the craftsmanship within, with the settings executed with such delicacy as to be almost invisible to the eye, leaving just the gems to shine. The next piece to form part of the collection is not this time in tsavorite green, but a pure emerald stone in a pear-drop shape. Originally set as a ring, given the natural delicacy of emeralds, Weir & Sons along with Hans D. Krieger decided that adapting it to a more wearable pendant design would best display its beauty and give it versatility in form. The emerald itself is of the highly prized Colombian variety – the source for some of the world’s most famous emeralds (including the renowned Guinness Emerald Crystal discovered in the Coscuez Emerald Mine, which, at 1,759 carats, is one of the largest gem-quality emerald crystals in the world). Emeralds were one of the earliest, most prized gems, and have long been said to bring contentment and foresight to anyone who wears them. This stone, again sourced and

LEFT: 18k white gold, emerald and diamond cluster necklace, €38,930, Weir Collection RIGHT: 21.01ct green tourmaline necklace with diamond and platinum pendant, €69,500, Weir Collection

crafted by Hans D. Krieger, comes in at 10.93 carats and so has supreme purity. “Colour is the most important thing when it comes to emeralds,” says Weir & Sons Operations Director Chris Andrews. “You don’t want it too watery and you don’t want it too dark either.” After colour, the stone’s clarity is the next most valued quality. “You don’t want something that has any inclusions, or compromises to its structure – anything that may essentially weaken it. Emeralds aren’t an everyday stone: they are fragile. You have to look at them carefully and make sure that they are really pure and have great integrity.” Once Hans D. Krieger had cut and polished the stone, the challenge with such a rare, precious centrepiece was to find a setting that did it justice. Set in 18k white gold, the stone was then surrounded with twenty-six 2.85-carat, round-cut brilliant diamonds, all held on a platinum chain decorated with bezel-set, round-cut diamonds and bezel-set, marquise-cut diamonds, to create a piece of high jewellery of exceptional beauty and craftsmanship.

“The forty-nine 29.24-carat tsavorites are so pure they require no enhancements or altering in any shape or form” WEIR.IE

The final piece to complete the collection is no less impressive. Taking just one exquisite large tourmaline, Weir & Sons chose to hero this remarkable stone in a deceptively simple pendant that also incorporates the brand’s iconic ‘W’ – to give it a direct connection to the store’s history and legacy. The pear-drop tourmaline itself contains all the brilliance and natural radiance that is so intrinsic to the gem and, with 21.01 carats, it has remarkable purity. Here, as opposed to opting for the more traditional setting of white gold, Weir & Sons decided to use the weightier platinum – a more unusual choice but one more fitting for a stone of this quality, with its famed strength and iridescence. And it is the setting that truly marks this piece out as unique. Collaborating again with Hans D. Krieger on the design of the pendant, the company wanted to honour the famous ‘W’ from Weir & Sons, something that has worked as both a hallmark and emblem for the store throughout its 150-year history. The result is a bespoke platinum setting featuring raised ‘W’s in platinum supporting the precious tourmaline, around which there is a halo of 45 arrowhead, 0.72-carat, claw-cut diamonds, while on the halo and veil there are brilliant-cut round diamonds set in a scallop shoulder – to maximise light into the stones and create the illusion of an invisible setting. On the chain, the diamonds are bezel-set to give them strength while maintaining their integral beauty. “The majority of people would use white gold, but platinum just makes it much more of a wow piece. It’s slightly heavier but of a higher quality,” explains Andrews. The halo of diamonds, being of a round brilliant cut, was placed on the bail, next to the chain. Again avoiding the obvious, more simple chain, the added diamonds here give this pendant an extra decadence that complements the special qualities of the other pieces in the collection. “What we really wanted was a set of wow pieces,” says Andrews. “And with these three pendants, we truly have that. They are remarkable, timeless pieces of jewellery.” WEIR & SONS 77

Anne and Tom Roche

Louisa Murphy and David Johnston

Thierry Stern and David Andrews

CELEBRATING 150 YEARS On April 11th, 250 guests assembled at Dublin’s Mansion House to celebrate 150 years of Weir & Sons, and to bear witness to the official unveiling of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Special Series, created to mark this historic occasion. In attendance were Thierry Stern, CEO of Patek Philippe, along with fourth and ﬁfth generations of the Weir & Sons family, with a unique opportunity to view some of the ﬁnest new timepieces, direct from the Baselworld watch fair.

Nicola Moore, Zoe Kelly and Rachel O'Leary

KIERAN HARNETT

Natasha, Chris and Lucinda Andrews

Hazel Roche

Roxana Cernat and Peter Murphy

Michelle Goes and Joan Keighan

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Philip and Candice Gannon WEIR & SONS 79

Victoria O'Mahony Peter Gleeson and Maria Gilmartin Mark Cooney and Lauren O'Flaherty

Avril Ward and Rachel Jenkinson Emily Mehigan

Grรกinne Berkery and Michelle Hurley KIERAN HARNETT

Ali McKeever and Lisa Freeman

Hannah Wilkinson and John O'Meara

Michelle Diamond Kelly

Catherine and David Andrews

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Anita Courtney and Ciara Brogan

Sean Cullinan and Michelle Roche

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