VIA Magazine Puglia 2020 by VIAMagazine

ISSUE II | 2020 via-magazine.com

travel & lifestyle magazine

In this issue, we tour the land of mystical Puglia to find inspiring people, places, and ideas. Architect Lucia Bianco talks about her latest ventures. Apulian chefs are bridging local traditions with Japanese cuisine, while in Salento skilled artisans are working magic on ceramic and stone works. We highlight the retreats and spas to book now, and awardwinning wineries to visit on the way. Traveling ministers and chefs are touring the world, and finally, we cycle through forests, we hike and surf the coasts, and record our experiences in a region-wide travel guide.

FLYING TO THE MOST COUNTRIES

turkishairlines.com

he only thing certain is change… 2020 promised to be the start of a new decade - in essence, that’s about it. For many of us that new decade meant starting fresh and discovering potential, life-changing directions. For Puglia, major new openings, sizzling hot partnerships and a record in international tourism arrivals were the 2020 agenda. Yet, who knows change better than the seasoned traveler does? It is now a top-of-mind state of mind we’re all learning to master. As we began working on this issue, an unknown ruler, wearing many crowns, scratched off important plans and changed how we run our lives, livelihoods, and connections in a way that we could not have anticipated. Yet in the grander scheme of things, life follows a timing of its own - and it’s always right. Our love of print remains however, we saw an opportunity to tap into the digital flow and go green this year, producing the first, all-digital edition of VIA magazine. The 2020 issue invites you to explore the many shades of Puglia, meet the most fascinating designers, escape hyperconnectivity and detox in the southern Italian way, and taste the full splendor of life with our special travel guide. Everything is

clickable: go wherever you’d like, whenever you want to. The ever-growing digital realm allows us to travel, shop, meet, connect and reimagine the world like never before, all from the comfort of our home. Soon enough we will be able to move around, and although most of us cannot wait to explore again, we will be wiser in the decisions we make: when we go, how we get there, who comes with us and why we go in the first place. Puglia has always been the choice of Italian families, from the noble to the humble, who came here to reclaim a sense of peace, family, and wellbeing. Puglia continues to be the choice of many, including distinguished entrepreneurs, business leaders, designers, architects, chefs, world travelers and families seeking an intoxicating breath of authenticity. Puglia is not the heel of Italy. It is the heart of the Mediterranean, the passage point between the ancient Holy Land to the heart of the Roman Empire. A destination of ambitious conquerors, marked by thousands of olive trees planted by the Greeks, ancient routes paved by the Romans, living traditions of hardworking pioneering families, and a cuisine that is as Italian as it is Mediterranean. Expect the most delightfully unexpected. - Eleonora Betesh

Puglia

Gargano

ITALY CHRISTIAN KOCH

Adriatic Sea

Trani

Christian Koch is an award-winning journalist/editor who has written for the Guardian, Sunday Times, Evening Standard, Telegraph, The Independent, Q, The Face and Metro. He has interviewed everybody from Mariah Carey to Michael Douglas, and Richard Branson to Beyoncé. Newspaper and magazine assignments have included reporting on the Japanese tsunami, gatecrashing the Cannes film festival, spending a weekend at a commune in Piedmont, and circumnavigating 360° around the world in 360 hours.

40 minute flight from Rome ELLEN GRACE JONES

2h 55m flight from London

Bari

2h flight from Geneva 2h 40m drive from Naples

Polignano a Mare

Matera

Fasano Alberobello

Basilicata

JUDY COGAN

Ostuni Taranto

Golfo di Taranto

From Caribbean jungles to the Moroccan desert, London-based lifestyle writer Ellen Grace Jones has travelled the world in search of adventure. A long-time visitor to, and lover of Puglia, she’s documented her travel exploits for the likes of The Huffington Post, Evening Standard and travel series A Hedonist’s Guide to… A reformed party animal, Ellen now juggles being a mother with creating destination guides for Jumeirah and Corinthia Hotels and writing on all aspects of arts, travel and culture.

Grottaglie

Brindisi

Judy Cogan is a dynamic London-based freelance journalist specializing in travel, food, wellbeing writing. She regularly writes for The i paper, Culture Trip, Waitrose Weekend, Club Traveler (Hilton), Grazia, and N by Norwegian. Before going freelance she was deputy editor on Oryx, the in-flight magazine for Qatar Airways published by Ink Global in London and a senior editor on the launch team of ShortList, Dubai and previously worked as a reporter for the China Daily in Shanghai.

Gallipoli Lecce Otranto

MANDI KEIGHRAN Mandi Keighran is a London-based freelance writer specializing in travel, design, and food. Originally from Sydney, Australia, she has travelled the world covering destinations from Svalbard to Seoul. She is the former editor of Oryx, the award-winning inflight magazine for Qatar Airways, and has twice been shortlisted for Writer of the Year at the Travel Media Awards.

Galatina

Ionian Sea

Santa Maria di Leuca

This map is dedicated to the memory of Uncle J, a seasoned yet infrequent traveler who always wanted to know exactly where he was going. You are forever missed.

VITO GRAVINESE Vito is an expert in marketing and design for hotels and restaurants. He lived in London, where he studied design and worked for prestigious and luxurious hotels and restaurants. He now lives in Puglia, where he was born, and he keeps on specializing in digital marketing, communication and PR. He loves travelling, photography, learning new languages and he is fond of Europe.

table of contents

/ index

14. AN INFINITE WELL OF BEING Lifestyle - Eleonora Betesh

30. FREE THE SPIRIT Travel - Judy Cogan

36. MODERN STONE AGE Architecture -Mandi Keighran

46. DINING WITH CHAGALL & OTHER FANTASIES Design -Mandi Keighran

58. REPURPOSING PUGLIA Architecture - Eleonora Betesh

66. HEELâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KITCHEN Cuisine - Christian Koch

palazzodaniele.com

72. THE TRAVELING CHEF Lifestyle - Ellen Grace Jones

74. THE TRAVELING MINISTER Interview - Eleonora Betesh

76. APULIAN WINE COUNTRY Cuisine - Christian Koch

92. PUGLIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FINEST BEACH CLUBS Lifestyle - Ellen Grace Jones

106. PUGLIA TRAVEL GUIDE VIA Travel Team

184. WHERE TO STAY A selection of the finest properties

interiorlecce.it - info@interiorlecce.it

VILLAS & APARTMENTS / INTERIOR DESIGN COMMERCIAL PROJECTS / HOSPITALITY & WELLNESS 12

We, as travelers and consumers, are moving towards eco-friendly experiences with a preference for brands that no longer have sustainability in mind, but top of mind, offering value-based travel that is proactive, intentional and engaging. Here in Puglia a new concept is born every time the season changes. And just like in yoga, the lower the shoulder the better: opt to travel in May, June and September to November. Here is where to go now.

by ELEONORA BETESH

How the heel of Italy is rising to the needs of contemporary, mindful hospitality 14

NAT URALIS B I O RES ORT

Naturali s 73025 M +39 349 www.nat

Where haute bio-architecture and barefoot holidays meet

IG: http

Bio Reso

artano, P

825 136

rovince

of Lecce

uralisbio resort.co m s://bit.ly /2TD5F yC

Located in the town of Martano, Naturalis is an organic farm and bio-green resort that relies on its own natural resources that grow on location to offer guests a slice of heaven. Those imagining a barefoot holiday will find it here among 13 hectares of pure nature, more than 1,600 olive trees and a wellness team that breathes life and wellbeing into everything you touch, inhale and ingest. On a humble 18th century farming estate, this rural entrepreneurship project, led by Domenico Scordari, proves that luxury, hospitality and sustainability can seamlessly mesh. The bio-architecture resort is designed with thoughtful interiors that complement the setting without overtaking its natural innate beauty, offering 12 suites with impeccable attention to detail, ample room, comfort and privacy. In-room amenities include herbal tea sets, beauty sets, and chromotherapy bathrooms with a walk-in shower. There is also a three-floor suite in the silo, once used to store wheat. Fresh fruit, juices and pastries are offered all day long in the shade of your veranda, poolside or at the restaurant, as well as a la carte options at the Naturalis garden kitchen. Amid historic walls and original stone baths is the 4 Elements 4 Life Naturalis SPA, which had its renovation completed in March 2020. The body undergoes a revival from the inside out; the elements of grain, oil, wine and aloe come together to reignite, sooth and empower the soul. Join the cooking classes, try the group Yoga and Reiki lessons - give your body a chance to experience the vibrations of this therapeuthic land. The bio resort was conceived from the thirty year-old N&B laboratory that sources ingredients native to Salento to produce organic cosmetics and sell worldwide. The R&D team is also studying tobacco seeds found in the earth, with plans to cultivate the plant for its skincare line. Everything here is alive and if you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t felt part of the rhythm for some time, this is the place where you can recharge your batteries and get back to Mother Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unstoppable flow. 16

R EL A I S H I S TO S A N P I ET RO Relais Histo

Steeped in history, designed for utter relaxation

Via Santandrea Cir 74123 Taranto (Ta

cummarpiccolo

)

+39 099 472 1188 www.relaishisto.it IG: https://bit.ly/2

B3lHeQ

Immersed in 70-hectares of private land outside Taranto, the five-star relais is like a livein museum, built on the grounds of a 14th century farmhouse - San Pietro in Mutata - and home to a former Roman villa, a lover’s court, and monastery. Designed by Culti, the historic masseria-meets-wellness-resort beautifully retains pride of place with an intentional effort to keep things flawless, fluid and pure. A total of 41 rooms and 7 suites are located in two separate wings. Every corner of the residence offers a sense of serenity and privacy with ample space for various travelers, including families and business travelers. The route to the spa passes the complex dedicated to garden deluxe rooms with an interior courtyard containing only botanical plants and flowers that mesmerize. You can explore your surroundings in flip-flops or slippers, too. It is utterly quiet and in between curious wanderings onsite, the first and last order of the day is the 1750 square-meter Relais SPA. In the hands of an expert, the wellness journey begins with an energizing dry sauna room with grand windows that overlook the Apulian countryside and thermal pools, and continues with variations in hot and cold water, as the body is prepared for one of the most memorable Ayurveda treatments that will awaken at least the classic 7 chakras. To discover all 114 hidden in our body would require a longer stay; we would definitely recommend giving it a chance. The resort is open all year round, and off-season is when you’ll be able to not just hear your breath, but really listen. The relais’ peaceful setting is idyllic for long weekend retreats - mixed with horseback riding and vineyard treks, or weeklong holidays in the region. 18

VIVOSA Apulia

V I VOS A RE SORT

Resor t

Loc. Fontanelle, 730 +39 0833 931 002 www.vivosaresort.c IG: https://bit.ly/2

59 Ugento (Le)

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LYTojN

A family-friendly anti-stress holiday totally immersed in nature

For a taste of life on the sea and the sand at your feet, VIVOSA should be on your itinerary. The organic spa and eco-resort is inspired by its motherland with a water and energy-saving philosophy in practice. Nestled in a pine forest within the Ugento Natural Park, the resort has all the space you need to wander, hide out, and get back in motion. The Maldivian private beach is accessible by a wooden walkway, with a shaded beach bar and a long strip of fine white sand that accommodates guests on comfortable sun loungers. Perfect for families and groups, this destination resort is idyllic for summer holidays and retreats off-season too. The resort has four large, outdoor swimming pools each designed for different purposes including hydro-massage beds and waterfalls, as well as a wide variety lessons with fitness experts that include tailor-made cycling programs, Yoga and Pilates classes, and outdoor meditation sessions. Travelers with children will appreciate the dedicated kid’s pool with water slides, shaded baby pool, garden and playground. Guest rooms are furnished in easy-going, contemporary Mediterranean style and the culinary offering includes a selection of products served at the resort, based on the prime quality of the ingredients, so as to guarantee a zero-kilometer culinary experience. The award-winning Vivosa Spa and wellness center (Best Italian Spa, Food & Travel Awards 2019) is a place to immerse the overworked body, mind and soul and emerge with renewed energy. The 800 square meter wellness center includes a tepid-temperature swimming pool with hydro massage, large Finnish sauna, bio sauna, Turkish hammam, Kneipp Path, herbal tearoom, sensory showers and 3 Tecnogym® fitness rooms. Spa cosmetics are ‘good enough to eat’; LABORATORI HUR® uses only local raw materials (no parabens, preservatives or solvents). The spa’s beauty rituals, named in the ancient dialect Nutrikeo (nourishment) and Nannarizzo (cradle), are inspired by the land, using extracts and healing plants such as cannabis sativa, muscat rose, olive oil, and even local grapes. Try the Tranquility Aromatic Spa Ritual to eliminate stress and tension using aromatherapy, and experiment with the experts’ visitation of Tibetan Sound Massage, a practice that is inspired by Ku Nye, an ancient tradition almost four thousand years old. 20

P O S I A L U X U RY R ET R EAT & S PA A unique combination between wellness and cultural immersion

POSIA Luxu

ry Retreat &

Via Lungom are Matteotti,

San Foca (L +39 0832 88

1 300

www.posia.it IG: https://b it.ly/2M1NA

Spa

157, 73026

On the southern Adriatic Coast, along a stretch of sublime blue sea that challenges the shores of Corfu on the opposite end, Posia Retreat & Spa brings something utterly different to this rustic corner of Salento. Rotating art exhibits, cocktails events, live music on Sunday evenings, and a sleek rooftop pool hangout are all an integral part of the wellbeing break; a kind of wellbeing SoHo-house. After all, between one massage and the next, it would make sense to share the sense of euphoria and freedom with fellow holiday goers under the Apulian sun with a house cocktail, green shake or caffé Leccese. Taking its name from the Greek word for ‘spring’, POSIA is a destination for travelers looking for slow travel experiences and social engagement. The vertical green wall and sleek cocktail bar remind us of cosmopolitan cities and infuse a youthful vibe. With just 23 rooms, guests can find respite from the hustle and bustle of the urban heat and crowds, opting for open spaces and independent cycling routes for professionals and amateurs. Each room features sleek, minimalist interiors, smart tech and onetouch lighting, mini bar and coffee-making facilities, some with seafront terraces. My SPA offers two treatment rooms, two indoor pools and a wellness course that includes Finnish and chromotherapy showers, and a wet and dry sauna. Around the indoor pool are ropes for Aerial Yoga classes, too. All you can hear is the sound of flowing water and your breath, interrupted only by intermittent sips of herbal tea or champagne bubbles. Ayurveda therapists offer a variety of treatment methods for singles or couples. Spa amenities include terrycloth knapsacks, flip-flops and bath-skirts with pockets, eliminating the need for overstuffed bathrobes. On the rooftop, guests can take in the heavenly shades of the sea and a dip in the infinity pool, with all-day bar services. Remember the sound of cascading water? That wonder wall waterfall appears at the Aura restaurant, a notable, guilt-free fine dining experience that pays tribute to Apulian seafood with surprising twists of flavor and spice. All that’s left to do is order breakfast in bed, slide open the terrace door and sip your coffee to the sound of the sea.

PA L AZZO DA N IELE

Palazzo Daniele Corso Umberto I, 60, 73034 Gagliano del Capo LE Tel +39 338 870 5555 palazzodaniele.com IG: https://bit.ly/3gpn47O

An artistic retreat with a re-tox philosophy

For some of us, wellness is not necessarily about a 60-minute horizontal nap but an ongoing series of ‘retox’ experiences where you consume all of the beauties of life with all your senses - an artistic detox, if we may. Lush, crawling fertile gardens; art collections; six-meter high frescoed ceilings; interior spaces imagined by iconic designers; and Mother Nature’s morning walk of shame - a smorgasbord of delectable Apulian cuisine to raise your spirits. Built in 1861, Palazzo Daniele is blessed with gorgeous architecture reminiscent of old cities, an intermix of Old Jaffa, Marrakesh and Rome: 150 years’ worth of history are evident in exposed walls, preserved frescoes, cobblestone paths, open courtyards, geometric floor tiles, and arched walkways. In essence, walking through the spaces is therapeutic in its own right. Nine guest suites leverage the palazzo’s history to make way for Francesco Petrucci’s impressive design eye - a descendant of the palazzo’s owners who initially imagined this space as a hosting art house. Under the management of Gabriele Salini (owner of the G-Rough in Rome), the palazzo is now a sublime artistic retreat where each space invites the guest to consider and reconsider color, form, and function, oozing style and elegance with minimal yet thoughtful pieces and comforts. At any time, you can retreat to your sleeping quarters with a book, on sublime bedding, curl up on the sofa in the lounge, or cool your body from the Salento heat with a dip in the pool, and let inspiration be delivered to you - because it will. The artistic retreat offers a steam bath and sauna to be enjoyed before massage treatments, or just because it does your skin and body good. Since mindfulness and wellness require us to extract ourselves from old patterns and boxed ways of thinking, you might want to consider some different experiences with a kind of meditative role-playing: wake up before sunrise as Fisherman for a Day, experiment with an inhouse chef ’s table experience, or gallop away on a horse towards the coast and fly with the wind. 24

lamacoppa.com

Inside the walls of this private 18th century masseria, history and contemporaneity converge. Mementos adorn the walls; a family of world travelers and collectors of unique paintings, photos, and contemporary art installations by artists known and yet-to-be. A place where books will consume you for days, the outdoor pool will lure you into its warm and bubbly waters under the stars, and homemade cooking permeates every room in the estate. 73 acres of lush countryside are home to rolling landscapes with protected woods, ancient olive groves, fruit orchards, an organic vegetable garden and a historic consecrated chapel that has remained unchanged. It is a place for grands celebrations and family retreats. Welcome to Masseria Lamacoppa.

From coastal cycling routes to cross-valley treks and hiking excursions deep in the forests and lush natural parks, Puglia offers hundreds of kilometers of wellbeing trails waiting to be discovered by JUDY COGAN & JOHN KLEIN

The natural beauty of Puglia’s landscape is as underrated as it is breathtaking. Where else will you find wild parks that bleed into beautiful countryside pockmarked by gently curving hills and small, whitewashed towns? While, not faraway, wide-open lakes lively with wildlife sit separated by sand dunes from 500-hundred miles worth of coastline. Known as the “stiletto heel” of Italy, this southern region of the country is already on the map as a popular culinary destination thanks to an abundance of fresh seafood and homegrown produce from olive oil to artichokes and Polignano’s famous purple carrots. Across the region, boutique cycling and hiking agencies are on a mission to share Puglia’s plethora of outdoor activities that includes everything from abandoned mineral sites, picturesque cycling routes, rock climbing, naturalistic trekking, and even early morning surfing excursions. Any of these activities are suitable for families, small groups and solo travelers. 30

“We spent our childhoods cycling through the countryside to the beach with our friends,” notes Emanuela Conversano, cofounder of bespoke travel company Tipica Tours and Puglia Cycling Tours, the region’s first cycling travel service. “Our tours are led by multilingual guides who know and love Puglia inside out,” she says. Clients simply have to define their travel style, preferred rhythm and scenery – consider the rest done. Routes cover a wide range of activity levels, from casual rides to highintensity paths, as well as hiking options for those who prefer to travel on foot with the Conversano and her colleagues’ newly launched Puglia Hiking Tours. Explore the Gargano peninsula, a lesserknown northeastern pocket of Puglia home to the UNESCO-inscribed Umbra Forest where you can experiment with forest bathing

(a free and profound healing practice) and visit the stunning Pulsano Abbey, an ancient Byzantine cathedral and sanctuary. Come spring, rich flora and wild orchids take over the meadows, comprising 64% of the species present in Europe - an incredible sight for cyclists and avid hikers. To the west is the Alta Murgia National Park where you can spend days meandering through open wheat fields, century-old olive groves and orchards bursting with sweet peach blossom. Some of the most extraordinary scenes are those found further north at the State Nature Reserve, adjacent to Margherita di Savoia’s salt mines that date back to 200 BC. Here, an impressive expanse of wetlands surrounded by pastures and crops is home to 50,000 specimens of species including fish and birds such as hawks, egrets, and herons.

Recommended cycling routes are the path to Frederick II’s marvelous Castel del Monte, while in the heartland of Puglia, in the triage generally mapped between Martina Franca, Cisternino and Locorotondo known as the Itria Valley, you can zip through quaint hilltop towns, dotted with historic bridges and Trulli, Puglia’s traditional whitewashed huts with conical roofs. Of course, a well-deserved lunch in the country or pop-up wine tasting are arranged en route before corkscrewing down quiet country roads towards the coastline. Salento is distinctly different however, evident in the color of the earth and architecture. Wander the inner trails passing through sleepy towns until you reach the coast, blessed with nature reserves, sand dunes, and immaculate, blue waters. At the tip of Salentao is Leuca, the southernmost point of a national cycling route that covers 1,300 kilometers, where dramatic cliffs and the tempting waters of the southern Mediterranean flank the narrow roads. While Puglia is blessed with a pleasant climate all year around if you are heading to the coast for your spiritual awakening, the summer is the best time of year to embrace the ocean. “It may come as a surprise, but Italy offers water sports at the same standard as those you can find in California and Hawaii,” says Alma Argese, founder of Romeo DMC. Sometimes as high as double overhead. Surfers can take advantage of the wind currents from the sea and the mountains, which create spectacular waves. The best time to take the plunge is from September until May. This land offers a slow pace and a calming connection to nature, one’s self and the community - far from the digital overload of our contemporary livelihood. “Being far from crowds, traffic and pollution opens up the lungs but also the mind,” says Conversano. “Our body relaxes and our thoughts become more lucid, more positive. It is not easy to find a place where man and nature speak so well and eloquently to each other and exploring it will benefit your physical and spiritual health.”Such benefits also extend to beginners. “It’s all in the challenge of trying over and over,” she says. “You fail and then you succeed and in doing so you are pushing your limits, you learn new things, improve, evolve and feel more fulfilled. You gain a 34

great sense of self gratification.” Yet another surprise element to Italy’s best kept secret. The most surprising thing about Puglia, however, is the light. “It seems like an abstract feature,” explains Conversano. “But it always stands out to visitors. The light shines on every aspect of the Apulian landscape - the blue sea, the silver leaves of the olive trees, the dry-stone walls from the Murge down to the Salento and on the faces of Puglia’s people. It creates a unique and special atmosphere.”

For the full story and more itineraries, visit via-magazine.com

Puglia Cycle Tours pugliacycletours.com

Romeo DMC romeodmc.com

Own every mile: Map my Walk

/ architecture

The rich history of stonework in Apulia is inspiring a new generation of artisans to craft an innovative material future

by MANDI KEIGHRAN

Since ancient times, Apulia has fostered a rich culture of stonecraft. From the Paleolithic flint quarries that dramatically cut through the landscape to finely crafted ornamental stone artefacts and the idiosyncratic conical trulli homes dotted across the southern peninsula, this natural material is intrinsically linked to the region. Today, these age-old traditions are being reinvented by a new generation of creatives. They are drawing on generations of experience to develop inspiring and innovative finishes for contemporary homes that create an alluring link between the past and the present day. Marra Pavimenti is a family-run company that has been crafting handmade tiles for more than 70 years, inspired by those found in the myriad historic homes and farms scattered throughout Apulia. Highlights from the company’s portfolio include the Cementine collection of vibrantly patterned tiles handcrafted from cement and mineral pigments, and Le Graniglie, an evolution of Venetian terrazzo tiles - and they have injected bold new life into traditional finishes. There is even a range of Le Graniglie, Preziosa, which incorporates luxurious materials such as glass granules, mother of pearl and semi-precious stones.

Marra Pavimenti

“The classic Cementine patterns are inspired by ancient decorative tiles inherited from our ancestors,” says Marra. “Today, we give our customers the opportunity to give their imagination free rein by creating tiles with personalized designs and infinite colors. We have also collaborated with designers on collections that recall the shapes and colors of our region.” 37

These lush finishes have proven not only ideal for the renovation and restoration of old residences and historic farms in the region, but also to bring a touch of Apulian craft to contemporary homes. Architects and designers can even work directly with the brand’s Marra Design studio to create bespoke tiles with unique designs and material combinations. Another company reinventing the material traditions of Italy is Paper Factor, which has pioneered the use of a patented solid surface material crafted from paper fibers and sustainable glues. The elegant material is strong, robust, moldable and lightweight, and can be used for everything from architectural and interior cladding to furniture. This cellulose compound material is a kind of evolution of paper-mâché and was invented 40 years ago by Lidiana Miotto, a renowned restorer who created the paper compound to restore precious artworks. Her son, architect Riccardo Cavaciocchi, founded Paper Factor in 2016 to develop the material for new applications. “I began to think about the soul of this project when I was living in New York,” he says. “I was seduced by the material and decided to come back to Lecce. Today, we are constantly doing experiments in material manipulation to develop new products.” Paper Factor has an impressive client list, having worked on such diverse projects as retail fit-outs for Armani, exhibition design in collaboration with Google Design Studio, and even the marble-like dashboard for Tesla’s much publicized Cybertruck. The company also collaborates on more experimental, avant-garde projects, such as a sustainable paper sarcophagus developed with renowned British designer Tom Dixon for the Wallpaper* Handmade exhibition as part of Milan’s Salone del Mobile design week in 2017.

Paper Factor

As these projects might suggest, the possibilities for Paper Factor are seemingly endless. The micro-paper material is easily adapted to any shape of mold, and is also available as lightweight sheets in a variety of finishes, from the marble-like Veins, to Piano, which resembles concrete, and Inlay, which is inspired by the ancient technique of intarsia. While it might recall the stone that Apulia is known for, Cavaciocchi insists it is a happy coincidence. “We are not trying to imitate marble or stone,” he says. “Everything is produced by hand and that gives it a completely natural effect, each with its own identity. And that is the key to the success of these new products and materials - while they might appear similar to or draw inspiration from the craft traditions of the past, they are clearly defining a bold new material future for the region. As Marra says, “The future is yet to be discovered. We have a passion handed down over generations and our desire to reach new goals is our strength. We will continue to develop what the older generations have left us and make these traditions our own.”

paperfactor.com via Roberto Caracciolo, 6 - 73100 / Lecce +39 348 320 4448 info@paperfactor.com Instagram: https://bit.ly/2WFeoSQStudio By appointment only

marrapavimenti.it Strada provinciale 362 km 16,330 Galatina (Lecce) / +39 0836 569484 info@marrapavimenti.it Instagram: https://bit.ly/2TgrvrA Showroom and shop

Charming residence, Ostuni

Private house, Ostuni

Luxury retreat & pool, Ostuni

Roma - Ostuni Interior Design Studio Projects & Interiors www.gianpaologuerra.com info@gianpaologuerra.com

Apulian artisans are reimagining a millennial old tradition of ceramic art to create vibrant homewares that bring a touch of magic to the table.

by MANDI KEIGHRAN

Imagine a dinner party populated with kings and queens, showgirls and clowns, and a table adorned with voluptuous vessels, lush fruits, tropical toucans and flamboyant flamingos - and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just the tableware. These colorful plates, platters and bowls follow in the footsteps of Apuliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long history of ceramic art, with fanciful images and sensuous forms that evoke the dreamy beauty of a painting by Marc Chagall. Grottaglie, a sunbaked town in the province of Taranto, has a tradition of ceramics that stretches back to the Middle Ages. Its artisans are particularly known for producing functional objects for everyday use - vessels for wine and oil, dishes, pots and pitchers. Over the centuries, the ceramic production has evolved and a new generation of artisans is crafting exciting, contemporary ceramics to bring flair to present-day dining tables and walls. 46

Ceramiche Fasano

The Fasano family is an integral part of this tradition and has been producing ceramics in Grottaglie since 1623. “Ours is a centuries-old tradition, with firm roots in the past but an eye to the future,” says Carmen Fasano, the granddaughter of Nicola Fasano who founded his eponymous studio, Ceramiche Nicola Fasano, in 1968. Today, the 15 ceramicists who work at the factory produce up to 800 plates each day, which are sold around the world. “My father, Franco Fasano, has been absorbed in ceramics since childhood and has experienced the evolution of styles and techniques, making them his own,” continues Fasano. Take the brand’s signature collection of plates adorned with expressionistic faces. They were originally inspired by the anxious faces of the global economic crisis. Today, however, Fasano creates faces that are less troubled and often inspired by the many visitors who make the trip to the Fasano factory. “There is great demand for our work abroad and our ceramic pieces are sold in some of the best shops in the world, especially in the contemporary art style which has been exploding in recent years,” says Fasano. “But our pride lies in having contributed to the furnishing of countless hotels, farms and resorts in Italy, especially in Puglia, Basilicata and Tuscany.” The studio’s ceramics can be found at some of the region’s most sought-after holiday resorts and villas such as Palazzo Margherita - Francis Ford Coppola’s luxurious resort in Bernalda - as well as Borgo Egnazia, Il Melograno, and countless others. They can also be spotted furnishing film sets, from the 1960s to today. “Our method of production has remained what it once was,” says Fasano. “Recent collaborations with international designers, however, have helped us keep in touch with new and contemporary shapes and patterns - and these are our most popular designs.” 50

Ceramiche Fasano

photo courtesy of Conrad Shop

This kind of contemporary reinterpretation of Apulian ceramics is a theme that runs through many of the studios in the region. Italian industrial designer Marco Rocco is a fifth generation creative, whose family workshop in Grottaglie produces pottery and whistles. “I grew up with these traditional ceramics and I have a conflicted relationship with them,” he says. “They represent my past, my childhood, and my ancestors.”

Marco Rocco

When he returned to Italy from a time living in Brazil, however, he discovered a new love for the traditions of his homeland and the memories of his childhood. “I decided to start with the forms of the traditional ceramics - I wanted to accept, transform and recreate a past that artistically haunted me,” he says. The result was three limited-edition collections of voluptuous ceramic vessels and lamps Barocco, Classique, and Pumos. Each piece has a strikingly contemporary form, the curves of which recall the traditional shapes found in Grottaglie’s ancient studios. “The past in particular is very influential in my design. I am inspired by my childhood, the cultural influences that my land has had in previous centuries, and the customs that perhaps no longer exist,” reflects Rocco. In more recent projects, Rocco recalls these traditional forms in more subtle ways. His Goldies lamps, for example, are an homage to the ceramic material itself. “Ceramic is an ancient and natural material and it gives objects a personality,” he says. “With the advent of plastic, though, the use of ceramic for everyday objects has practically disappeared. These lamps are a tribute to times past.” To further emphasize the perceived value of the ceramic, the lamps are coated in real gold. 52

Pierpaolo Gaballo

Pierpaolo Gaballo is yet another creative crafting enchanting tableware in Apulia. From his small studio on Via Arte della Cartapesta in the historic center of Lecce, he illustrates the whimsical black and white characters that populate his imagination and brings them to life. “I love sharing food and the serving dish is a representation of this ritual,” he says. “My illustrations are a bit of a synthesis between two styles that I like very much - classic black and white graphics and posters from the Sixties. With my Piattoquadro project, I wanted to combine the desire to express myself through drawing with my love of food.” Each hand-illustrated plate is unique, the simple brush lines capturing an evocative scene that offers a glimpse into a character’s personality, from sailors and clowns to royal figures. “I find inspiration in people’s faces and expressions, and I’m fascinated by their stories,” he says. “Often people will buy a piece because the character reminds them of someone they know.” These modern ceramics are not only a colorful way to furnish a dining table or bring a crafted touch to the walls of a contemporary interior - they also offer a powerful and expressive link to the traditions of the Apulian region. And, who wouldn’t want to dine from a piece of art?

fasanoceramichesrl.com info@fasanocnf.it Via Crispi, 6 74023 Grottaglie +39 099 566 1037

marcoroccodesign.com info@marcoroccodesign.com Via La Pesa, 15 74023 Grottaglie +39 329 764 4668

pierpaologaballo.com info@pierpaologaballo.com Via Arte Della Cartapesta, 15 73100 Lecce +39 339 201 3881

PUGLIA LUXURY

EXPERIENCE

Based in the heart of Puglia, AC Concierge offers the services that travelers seek most, from pre-planned to last-minute. Relying on his Apulian heritage, passion for his homeland and eye for detail, Anthonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intimate knowledge of the land opens doors to all things adventure, off-the-radar, fun, and unforgettably delicious, ensuring you experience the finest Puglia has to offer. Clients get the right advice, the best table in the house, reservations for the best sunbed on the beach, access to private experiences - from sunrise to sunset. Whether a long weekend, summer holiday with family, business visit, or an extra special occasion... AC Concierge is the ultimate go-to lifestyle service in Puglia, the real Puglia.

+39 333 967 46 83 acluxuryservices@gmail.com palazzodeidondoli.it

/ architecture

She has reimagined historic spaces into impressive hospitality destinations including Palazzo dei Dondoli, Mantatelure Dimora di Charme, medical clinics, and the latest architectural marvel, Palazzo BN. Apulian architect Lucia Bianco talks to VIA Magazine about her vision for Puglia.

by ELEONORA BETESH

The polished, upscale studio, Interior Lecce, is located in the center of town on an unassuming street. Clients descend by appointment into a space that in itself feels like a museum with pieces and furniture that leave you wanting to touch, sit and explore. Lucia opened the studio in 2007 and this address has since been her go-to for connecting - and sometimes disconnecting. VIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Editor in Chief pinned Lucia down for coffee one morning and learned about the unstoppable forces within the woman in front of her: there is nothing she cannot do. What makes an exceptional architect in your opinion? First and always, passion and use of all senses to pick up the constant signals requesting our attention at every corner - and certainly the practical ability to transform those signals into completed works. Having been born and bred in Lecce, how has the city changed since you started as an architect? At the end of the 90s, Lecce was a delightful provincial city, today it is a major tourist destination, well known and connected to the rest of the world, so I would say that the change has been remarkable.

Interior Lecce

What artists, or famous architects, do you most admire? American architect, Richard Meier, is an absolute genius. He was the first to propose the architecture of light with the most modern and innovative style; Zaha Hadid was brilliant with her works of fluid architecture...and what greatness she introduced: a woman born in Iraq in 1950 capable more than anyone else of being the first true great archistar. 58

There is an ever increasing demand for smart technology, especially in luxury design. How do you factor environmental-friendly elements? Respect for the environment, particularly from now on, must always be a guiding element for every project including that of the architect’s plan. This principle has always been part of the work ethos, proposing restorative architecture and recovery but also innovative sustainable materials and systems such as construction materials and solar power. All these new possibilities and growing awareness will become ever more important and top of our agenda as architects. Where do you find inspiration for your work? I find inspiration in travel and mostly in books, but also from my intuition, rising from encounters or suggestions that come up in my dreams. I am convinced that nothing is by chance, you just have to know how to interpret signs ... we are surrounded by infinite inputs.

for architects. Under Lucia’s all-encompassing leadership, the studio offers turnkey solutions from concept to the last furnishings with an impressive line of partners including Porada, Poliform, Guardarte, FIAM, driade, DEDON, R|O|D|A, Alf DaFre’, and Valentini sofas. What are the most significant projects born in this studio over the last four years? The painstaking recovery project of the Solicara Masserizio complex in Lecce, the renovation and functional recovery project of Villa Starace in Sannicola, and designing the interiors of Clinica Coricciati in Martano. We also undertook the preservation and renovation of the former traffic police headquarters in Lecce into a popular hotel, as well as the historic revival of Palazzo BN in Lecce; I hold these projects and commissions in high regard because I have been privileged to also establish real friendships.

Where do you source the materials you work with? The vast majority of industrial and artisanal productions are made here in Italy, not for national pride, but for the conscious and intentional search for the best product and that often means sourcing materials in my country. However, I also hold a high regard for Spanish design and creativity. Is there a signature style or material that you always incorporate in your work? The “spirit of the place” is extremely important to me, as well as the genuine and precious link between past and future. When I take on a renovation, I always try to recover original elements of the place and repurpose it with new and original functions where the original function cannot be recovered. Phones are ringing and chairs are wheeling across the studio from one designer to another. At any given moment, the team of six professionals are hard at work on renders, researching material or planning a cocktail event 60

What projects are you currently working on? Restoring ‘Cinema Roma’ in the White City of Ostuni; a commercial and office complex in Lecce; a new hotel in Lecce known as “Arrivo”; and a series of private villas by the Pettolecchia Collection as well as a 13th century fortress on the same land in Fasano. The hotel as a destination for visitors and locals is not common in this part of Italy, at least not yet. For Lecce, Palazzo BN is a game changer. The former regional headquarters of Banca di Napoli, Palazzo BN is a new urban hospitality concept that features 13 Parisian style suites, a gourmet kitchen, fish bar, cocktail bar, rooftop botanical garden, and Salento’s first stateof-the-art Technogym – all under one roof. How did you go about the restoration of Palazzo BN, a unique historic monument? The renovation of Palazzo BN was a unique experience both professionally and personally. The theme of “spirit of the place” was particularly significant here and was applied both in the recovery of forgotten elements alongside new additions that create an architectural harmony. In fact Lucia recalls finding stunning gold plated bars with the initials “BN” and gates (now restored and re-purposed), impressive archives, forgotten woodworking techniques, and impenetrable faults that took months to open. What brands did you work with to realize the project? The project is brought to life thanks to our strong partnerships with many brands, including unique works by Laminam, Jacuzzi, Cielo, Prodotti Sikkens, Harpo, Poliform, Porada and Driade, and innovative Technogym equipment. The sinks have been handmade and carved to the last centimeter and the immense slabs of stone in the ensuites are utter works of art. How does Palazzo BN reflect Lecce, in your opinion? For this project, we experimented with a new “format” starting from the need to convert 62

an architectural womb in its function - from an old-world bank into a hospitality destination. We also had to shift each workspace into a social space, highlighting the job of “functional conversion”. This kind of format can be replicated in other historic buildings with similar characteristics and structure in the future, making Palazzo BN a valid point of reference. For a businesswoman, wife, mother, partner and boss, Lucia’s daily schedule is fastpaced and incessantly trying to catch up with her is like trying to control a tornado. Time is already short, so I ask her… What is your morning routine like? Newsha, a dear friend of mine from America always tells me.. “you are crazy!” I eat a quick breakfast, put on my work boots and comfortable clothes for a long morning of visits to construction sites, meetings with workers, suppliers and craftsmen. I must see every detail; I am a maniac! Sometimes my morning ends in the late afternoon, but I know of no other way of doing this work. Your favorite spot to forget the world? Simple, under the covers in my bed, located in an old house in the historic center where smartphones don’t ring!

Interior Lecce Via G. Arditi 13/B - 73100 Lecce www.interiorlecce.it Instagram: https://bit.ly/2LCf855

Book an appointment: info@interiorlecce.it +39 0832 246369

scholasarmenti.it

kiasmo.it

by CHRISTIAN KOCH

A love of raw fish, an obsession with simple-but-fresh food, and the ability to find beauty in imperfection: Christian Koch invites you to forget orrecchiette for a moment - bring out the okonomiyaki.

Despite the obvious geographical distance, the cuisines of Puglia and Japan have more in common than meets the eye. A spate of innovative chefs across the region are relying on traditional Japanese culinary techniques to put a unique spin on Apulian dishes. To the untrained eye, the overalls-clad fishermen sitting pier-side in Bari’s port are scoffing sashimi - and no one is invited. Washing down slivers of raw fish with bottles of Peroni, their still-twitching pescatarian picnic incorporates sea urchins, clams, cuttlefish, and “pulpe” - all without wasabi, pickled ginger or a pair of chopsticks in sight. To Apulian epicurean enthusiasts, however, it’s clear the fishermen are eating ‘crudo alla Barese’, the local centuries-old custom of feasting upon zero-kilometer raw fish. Perhaps it is no coincidence that both Japan and Italy have the two highest lifespans in the world, according to the United Nations (84.5 and 83.4 years respectively); statistics widely attributed to the countries’ fish-and-plant-based diets (see the Unesco-protected Mediterranean diet). 66

Hagakure Noh Samba

At vibrantly hued Latin-Japanese-Italian restaurant Nōh Samba, a five-minute stroll away, things get slightly more nebulous. Here, the degustation journey includes dishes such as La Tela di Jackson Pollock, a retina-scorching riot of raw sea bream tartar and cannolo. Is this dish “crudo?” Sashimi? Nōh Samba is one of a wave of imaginative restaurants in Puglia splicing together an appreciation of the region’s culinary traditions with its bounty of fresh seafood. Puglia has a longer coastline than any other mainland Italian region and timeless Japanese artisanal techniques. “Japanese and Apulian cuisine have several points-of-contact,” says Pierangelo Coda, co-owner of Puro in Polignano a Mare, one of the most celebrated Japanese kitchens. “Both respect raw foods, carefully choose ingredients and focus on seasonality… The result is dishes that ooze freshness.”

Puro

At Puro, this mingling of two cuisines is exemplified by such fusion taste-bombs as its vegan roll (with tomato, basil and “scamorza” replacing fish, and yellow-purple Polignano carrots substituting for nori seaweed), wagyu nigiri with olive oil, and a twist on a traditional summer staple in the Apulian kitchen, “Puro patate e cozze” made with rice, potatoes and mussels. Puro can thank the finely tuned technical nous of chefs Diego Shimojo and Makoto Nakazato. The Argentinian- Japanese cooks use family tofu recipes and sharpen their own knives. Coda notes, “They think knives are an extension of their body”, and endlessly research Apulian recipes to put an oriental spin on them. If Puro is fusion fare, Noci restaurant Yuki offers a more traditional take:“washoku” (Japanese 68

cuisine). Founder and CEO Maurizio Tinelli describes his restaurant as “purist”, noting the “washoku” extends to “no contamination with western ingredients, other than some extra virgin olive oil”. Last year Yuki received JETRO (Japan External Trade Organisation) certification for the authenticity of its umami-laden Japanese cuisine; the restaurant sources wagyu beef from a Kyoto prefecture farm, and has 30 different varieties of sake. The restaurant also embodies elements of “wabi-sabi”, the art of finding beauty in imperfection, or as Tinelli puts it, “a dish that evokes a feeling of serenity and desire simultaneously”. Tellini acknowledges that Japanese food shares striking similarities with Apulian cuisine. “Both kitchens are rooted in traditional techniques that have been refined through generations, such as marinating or salting fish, rather than smoking it,” says the young entrepreneur. A mutual love of raw fish is not the only sign that Apulian cuisine skews more towards Tokyo than Tuscany; both cultures share a passion for sea urchin too. The “ocean’s foie gras” is served in Japanese gunkan-maki sushi rolls, while “pasta con ricci di mare” (sea urchin pasta) is an Apulian delicacy too (also making a cameo in many Nōh Samba dishes). Unifying both cuisines is food prepared with minimal seasoning in order to preserve the natural flavor of its ingredients. This keep-things-simple credo is the backbone of Puglia’s “cucina povera”, but is just as palpable in the ramen noodle-parlours of Tokyo, as Leccecrafted pasta made with durum wheat and water. Puro’s Coda agrees, “The palates of Japanese and Italians have much in common, both like simple dishes with great aesthetic presentation.” At Puro, such farm-to-fork (or rather, sea-to-spoon) freshness has almost become an edict. “Fortunately, Puglia is washed by two seas and when Adriatic fishermen have nothing for us, we turn to the fishermen of the Ionian. And when the sea doesn’t allow us to find fresh fish, we don’t serve fish,” Coda proudly affirm (only Puro’s salmon is imported). Listening to these fishermen is crucial. Raw fish might be winning over new fans in Puglia’s innovative Nippon-inspired restaurants, but it is a secret these in-the-know “pescatori” have kept to themselves for centuries…but chefs still rely on the wisdom of pescatori in-theknow who speak the language of the seas and know when the time is right to lift the nets.

Yuki

Puro

Yuki

Noh Samba

Via S. Vito, 15/17 70044 Polignano a Mare +39 080 403 8044 puro-sushi.com purosushi2015@gmail.com IG: https://bit.ly/3cRawnx

Via G. Recchia Maggiore, 24 70015 Noci +39 080 494 9680 yukiristorante.it info@yukiristorante.it IG: https://bit.ly/2ymsU8T

Via Salvatore Cognetti, 29 70121 Bari +39 080 883 4478 hagakurenohsamba.it info@hagakurenohsamba.it IG: https://bit.ly/2ymgZrv

by ELLEN GRACE JONES

Haute nutritionist and Apulian chef Dalila Roglieri shares her DaRò philosophy and irresistible Apulian foodie insider tips.

Superstar nutritionist Dr. Dalila Roglieri captivates her clients’ senses by whisking them on extraordinary culinary journeys that harmonize healthy ingredients with incredible tasting food. Working with Silversea Cruises ignited a desire to share her passion and knowledge with gastronomically curious luxury travelers, and led to the creation of her extraordinary DaRò wellness cuisine project. When Dalila isn’t traveling the world at the request of VIPs to create tantalizing culinary itineraries, she’s showcasing the best of Apulian cuisine at DaRò events, workshops and theme nights.

to create unforgettable culinary experiences, and so the DaRò wellness cuisine project was born.” How do you create a personalized menu? The menus are created and decided with the client, including evening themes. I love helping clients to have a truly unique food experience. I remember an evening in a prestigious tennis club with a menu dedicated entirely to the world of tennis. Then, in Brazil, we created a special barbecue with a selection of the finest meats from all over the world. Indigenous nutrition… we’re intrigued. “My wellness workshops across the world teach the fundamentals of indigenous nutrition. I like to tie clients to where we are and to the local food culture, giving them a sense of place. In Japan I organized a workshop on the diet and food habits of Okinawa, an island that has become famous for keeping the secrets of the longevity of its people. The table was full of ingredients bought at the market, which we got to know better during the lesson, then tasted at dinner.” Back here in Puglia, what kind of experiences can you offer clients? Walk us through a daily menu. “My ideal culinary day out in Puglia with clients is about getting to know the region’s soul. Puglia offers us an incredible array of possibilities. The day begins with a walk through olive trees or through the enchanting alleys of a small village. We’ll refresh over a lunch of sea urchins, fresh octopus and an aperitif by the sea. Then, a lesson on local culinary traditions is available for cooking enthusiasts. The evening ends in an exclusive restaurant or in a typical Masseria. Dinner is tailor-made for the customer with attention to their specific preferences, combined with the authenticity of local flavors.” For the full feature, visit www.via-magazine.com On request, Dr. Dalila Roglieri can sail on board clients’ private yachting holidays in Puglia, southern Italy or the southern Mediterranean, and plan personalized menus in Puglia or around the world. For info: +39 3885664284 / www.dalilaroglieri.com / info@dalilaroglieri.com / Instagram: https://bit.ly/3cTMqZv

How was the DaRò project born? “DaRò is a culmination of my nutrition knowledge and a passion for food and wine. Whilst working with Silversea cruises I realized how effective it was to share my knowledge in nutrition in a more practical way. I would chat with guests about superfoods in local markets and I organized cooking shows and workshops for them on the cuisine of the countries we visited. Back in Italy, I was inspired to collaborate with companies, restaurants, hotels and resorts 72

VIA’s Editor-in-Chief meets with a woman of many domains, now a Traveling Minister of the Universal Life Church, too. In the name of love, by Mea Argentieri.

Some people like to officiate things in the most formal of ways: paperwork, signatures… While others prefer another route - more open-minded yet nonetheless binding. What was once a bohemian lifestyle choice is now more en mode than ever, where professionals with lifelong careers follow a spiritual calling and train at the Universal Life Church (ULC), officiating ceremonies around the world in all-inclusive philosophy. You’re a true career woman who’s travelled near and far; what inspired you to become a minister? In the summer of 2017 my best friend’s daughter, Madeline Fraser and her husband, Clinton Bopp asked if they could have their wedding at my home in Italy. I was thrilled to oblige. Then Madeline threw me a curve ball and asked if I would perform the ceremony. I said yes, but I remember thinking “oh s***, where do I begin? Till that point I had never thought of becoming an ordained minister. So in June 2018 I performed my first ceremony and hosted guests from around the 74

by ELEONORA BETESH

world. The ceremony took place under an ancient carob tree atop my vineyard. This wedding was my first and because it was at my home I did the much of the planning. However I was fortunate to collaborate with an extremely talented event planner, Carla Ritorvato. We did it all! Rehearsal dinner, ceremony and reception. Obviously this was a unique situation. I am not a wedding planner so this service is not included unless the wedding takes place at my estate in Puglia. Do you meet with the couple in person, virtually or both? Through a series of face-to-face or video meetings I will ask several questions. For example, I will ask if the couple wants a traditional or a contemporary wedding ceremony. Do they plan to write their own vows or would they like me to write their vows or both? Do they want to include any of their own religious practices? The pre-planning phase is all important. I want to know the couple and so I meet with them several times in order to understand exactly what they envision. My goal is to make their wedding one of the most memorable experiences of their lives. What are the ceremonies like? Each ceremony is very different and uniquely customized. To date I have performed weddings and vow renewal ceremonies in Italy, France and the United States. I strive to make the ceremony not only personal and intimate but also allinclusive. Everything is legal in accordance with specific state and country laws. Is there anything you would like tell our readers about yourself and your experiences thus far? I have always been a connector. I love meeting new people. Being a minister is an honor and a responsibility that I take very seriously. I have been enriched by each and every experience and now it has become a passion. To witness love at its best is beautiful. And without exception I have remained in contact with all of the couples. This is probably in the top five of highly anticipated and awe-inspiring days of our lifetime. Among her many talents, Mea has the capacity to put you at ease and invoke spirituality into one of the most important agreements you’ll ever be bound to, offering new insight on knowing your chosen mate before they become your chosen one. All this sans the burden of hierarchy - it is a love revolution.

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Taste the best of Apulian vino on a wine route that takes in feminist icons, Fellini-themed parties and Primitivo fit for a president… In a country where wine is classified as an ‘essential service’, this comes as no surprise.

by CHRISTIAN KOCH

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CHIAROMONTE Stocking the White House cellars with Primitivo

The current US president might be teetotal, but one of his predecessors was not. At an event in Los Angeles, owner Nicola Chiaromonte was astonished when a White House emissary ordered 720 boxes of his vineyard’s Primitivo. Evidently, the president was a man with good taste, as anybody who sniffs-and-swills this top-tier red at Chiaromonte’s third-generation winery will agree. Drink this: Gioia del Colle Primitivo Muro Sant’Angelo Contrada Barbatto 2016. Velvety mouthfuls of plum and bitter chocolate make this a tipple worthy of any world-leader.

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CANTINE DUE PALME Working together for wine perfection

This agricultural cooperative spans 1,000 growers across Puglia, churning out twelve million bottles each year. Equally as impressive are its winemaking techniques: Alberello bush-vine training stemming from the Roman Empire and paired with Japanese robotic technology. Visitors can find out more on a sommelier-led tour and tasting at its cellar. Cantine Due Palme has such reverence for the Negroamaro grape; they call it â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;His Majestyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Drink this: Selvarossa Salice Salentino Rosso. Try this award-garlanded marvel to find out why.

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LI VELI For ancient grape varieties youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re unlikely to taste elsewhere

The rare wines offered at this sprawling masseria include unsung heroes such as the herby white Verdeca (made from a grape variety usually used to make vermouth) and reds made from seldom-used susumaniello (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Little Donkeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;), a grape used in Roman times. Drink this: Askos Verdeca 2018. Made from an ancient Apulian grape variety, this sprightly white has notes of tropical fruit and pear, with a spicy aftertaste.

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AGRICOLA FELLINE The pioneering winery with Fellini parties and musical feasts “I’m proud to say we are unique,” says Felline owner Gregory Perrucci. “We do something nobody else does.” Indeed, book a tour of his Salento winery and you could find the charismatic vintner playing the piano for your group while you devour a multi-course meal (Perrucci: “If I’m here, we sing, we dance, we drink”). Or you could stumble into its Halloween “Felline meets Fellini” party, where guests dress as characters from the director’s movies, accompanied by a 60-piece orchestra. Other monthly shindigs include a Champagne-fuelled Bastille Day bash and burlesque nights. Check out one-of-a-kind wines too, such as Dunico made from vines planted in local sand dunes. Drink this: Primitivo di Manduria Zinfandel Sinfarosa Terra Nera. The Californian Zinfandel is a close cousin of Primitivo; something to ponder when savoring this lip-smacking wine.

VARVAGLIONE 1921 The experiential-heavy vineyards

Taranto winery offering exclusive experiences such as DiVine Picnic (winery tour followed by picnic in centuries-old olive grove); A Taste of Puglia (wine and olive oil pairing); At Home with Varvaglione (winery and masseria tour finishing with a lunch featuring the family’s recipes), Papale Oro Vertical Tasting (sample its flagship wine; price on request). Varvaglione 1921 is clearly one to watch: the business was featured in The Financial Times’ FT 1000 list of Europe’s fastest-growing companies. Drink this: Idea Rosa di Primitivo

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AGRICOLE VALLONE

It’s a family affair. There are three estates to choose from for this venerable family-run winery that has been making wine since the 1940s. The expertly-crafted vini from the Vallone siblings are consistently voted among the best in Italy. Drink Graticciaia. Made by withering grapes on straw mats in the Puglian sun (it enhances the flavor), this suave Negroamaro is rightfully regarded as one of Italy’s most phenomenal reds. Getting there: Via 25 Luglio, 7 - Lecce / +39 0832 308 041 / Visit: agricolevallone.it

SCHOLA SARMENTI Salento winery that pays equal attention to its food as it does the grape; try pairing Schola Sarmenti’s wines with seasonal local fare at its authentic Apulian wine-bar. Drink the Corimei, a rare ‘meditation wine’. Getting there: Via Gen. Cantore, 37 - Nardò / +39 0833 567 247 / scholasarmenti.it

MADRI LEONE Like an oenological version of Francesca Cavallo and Elena Favilli’s Good Night Stories for Rebel Girls’, Madri Leone names its wines after female role models such as 18th-century entrepreneur Donna Francesca Sanna Sulis. The winery makes a more-than-welcome diversion if visiting nearby Castel del Monte. Drink the Valla1936. Getting there: Contrada Sant’Antonio, Stazione Candida - Trinitapoli / +39 349 524 6401 / Visit: facebook.com/MadriLeoneVinidiPuglia

CANTINE POLVANERA Family-run winery specializing in first-rate reds aged in stainless steel tanks. Offers six tasting sessions a week in its sumptuous 1820 manor house. Drink the Polvanera 17, aged in stainless steel tanks with notes of wild berry and tea leaves. Getting there: Gioia del Colle (Ba) / +39 080 758 900 / info@cantinepolvanera.it / Visit: cantinepolvanera.it 88

Available at the finest hotels in Puglia. 100% natural and locally-derived ingredients sourced from ancient olive trees and native grapes of Alto Salento and Itria Valley. Not tested on animals. Dermatologically tested. Hypoallergenic. Made in Puglia. essentiapuglia.com

Pettolecchia Il Lido

by ELLEN GRACE JONES From secluded craggy coves with pebble-dashed beaches to undulating stretches of golden sandy dunes, Pugliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diverse coastal beauty is endlessly alluring. When it comes to pitching up for the day at a stylish seaside spot, the region is blessed with all manner of enchanting beach clubs.

For the ultimate in Apulian luxury, Pettolecchia Il Lido delivers haute glamour upon the azure Adriatic shoreline. From its four-poster sunbeds, vis-Ă -vis for two and personal masseuses to gourmet pizzas and exquisite cocktails, this private, ultra-glitzy beach club is A-List ready. S.P. 90 Savelletri - Torre Canne (Br) SNC +39 080 889 4423 / pettolecchiaillido.it

Le Palme Beach Club Occupying a blissful stretch of honeyed sand, Le Palme Beach Club invites lazy afternoons with the family by the cerulean Adriatic seaside. Pitch up for the day in a comfortable cabana and take advantage of Le Palme’s full-service pizzeria. Do not leave without treating yourself to a chic kaftan from Tulsi Shop next door. Contrada Pantanelli - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) / +39 347 643 5693 / Visit: www.lepalmebeachclub.it

Marzà

reserve with Cocobuk

Loved by solitude-seeking Italian celebrities, Marzà does low-key lounging quite like nowhere else in Puglia. You will find this rustic spot on a tiny, secluded Monopoli beach, surrounded by fragrant lavender and chamomile. Sink into a hammock for the afternoon before dining on fresh local salads as the sun dips down.

Lido Bambù Lido Bambù’s thatched umbrellas and bamboo cabanas lend this Capitolo beach bar a distinctly Polynesian vibe. At the tropical paradise, you can slink back into a mattress-topped sunbed and buzz your call button for drinks while your phone charges. One for watersports lovers, Lido Bambù has its own Surf Center. Località Capitolo - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) +39 080 212 1343 / More on: www.lidobambu.it

C.da Santo Stefano - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) / +39 348 9835031 / For more info: www.marzamonopoli.it

Lido Tamerici Lido Tamerici’s gleaming white stone terraces, fragrant tamarisk trees and shady bamboo cabanas inspire romance. A perfect couples’ hideaway, this Puglian beach club makes a romantic retreat on the crystalline shores. Beds, beach towels, hot showers are all on hand for your afternoon dip. Stay until sunset and dine together on Lido Tamerici’s private terrace. Contrada Losciale, 74 - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) / +39 366 468 8179 / For more: www.lidotamerici.com

Kalè Beach Club Inspired by Santorini’s unmistakable blue domes and whitewashed walls, Kalè Beach Club brings a little slice of the Cyclades to Puglia. A large beach club whose row upon row of thatched umbrellas punctuate the white sands of Castellaneta Marina, Kalè is a lively spot where live music and DJs will soundtrack your day in the sunshine. Lungomare Eroi del Mare, 23 - 74011 Castellaneta Marina / +39 099 843 9098 / FB https://bit.ly/2LJhcbt

Mora Mora Beach For barefoot Balearic vibes, Mora Mora Beach channels Ibiza’s carefree insouciance. It worth spending a whole day at this San Foca beach club where you can savor the freshest of just-caught seafood at lunch. Recline on a lounger with a cocktail in hand and dine on sea urchin pasta after dark. SP366 - 73026 San Foca (Le) / +39 393 829 4228 / For more info visit: www.moramorabeach.it

Canneto Beach On the coast of Salento, surrounded by a panorama of striking beauty is the Canneto bathhouse covering 35 thousand square meters of well-being. Travelers who are looking for a mix between nature and sports will appreciate the diving and swimming courses as well as four tennis courts (two clay, two mateco) open all year around, basketball, soccer, beach-volleyball courts, plus table tennis and padel tennis. The rest is down to the sea. Via Argentina, 200 - 74020 Leporano (Le) / +39 099 5332037 / cannetobeach.it / https://bit.ly/2AJnohb

Cala San Giovanni When all you want is the sea and lots of relaxation, this all-white beach club promises to deliver. A ‘Blue Flag’ destination with fine golden sand; the waters here are liquid crystal and the small enclave is surrounded by a lush pine forest with unique caves. The family-friendly beach has comfortable beds, a beach bar, changing facilities and a scenic layout that lets you take in the beauty until sunset. Life is better here. C.Da San Giovanni, 214 - Polignano A Mare +39 080 424 1250 / www.calasangiovanni.it info@calasangiovanni.it / https://bit.ly/3g7gX7T

Guna Beach

reserve with Cocobuk

On this beautiful stretch of fine sand surrounded by splendid dunes, guests can enjoy sprawling green lawns, shaded gazebos, fresh cuisine and cocktails, and a unique wellness pavilion reserved for therapeutic massages, Yoga, TRX, Fit Box and Pilates classes in the open air. With the Torre Guaceto natural reserve just nearby you can hop on a bicycle and explore a bit. Pet-friendly facility. C.da Apani, Torre Guaceto (Le) / +39 347 627 2032 or +39 393 904 2975 / info@gunabeach.com For more info visit: www.gunabeach.com or visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/2Xg7vXp

Molo Castro The beach party never stops at Molo Castro, a hip sea front beach club teetering on a rocky outcrop overlooking the turquoise Ionian Sea. It’s here Puglia’s youthful cool crowd congregate over sundowner aperitivos whilst dancing to lively DJ sets. 73030 Castro (Lecce)

/ +39 347 578 0859 / For more info visit the website: www.molocastro.it

Samarinda Beach Club Open from breakfast ‘til naughtily late, Samarinda Beach Club makes a chic port of call whatever time of day. Chill out under an umbrella on the decking, indulge in a stone-baked pizza at the restaurant for lunch and catch sunset in a private gazebo on the picturesque seafront as live acts take to the stage. Lungomare C. Colombo, 56 73040 Santa Maria di Leuca (Le) /+39 392 195 0465 / samarindafinebeach.it

Marinelli Lido Set on a cluster of rocks amid fragrant Mediterranean scrub, Marinelli Lido occupies a secluded corner of Salento. Child-friendly sandpits and playfully striped cabins make it an exceptional hangout for family travel. Enjoy a dinner of fresh clams together under the stars. Via Magna Grecia - 73053 San Gregorio, Patù / +39 366 505 1358 / For more: www.marinellivacanze.it

Bagno Marino Archi Nestled alongside Santa Cesarea Terme’s rugged fortified walls, the cliffside Bagno Marino Archi offers resplendent views across the Ionian Sea. Loungers, parasols and cabins line the craggy outcrop as waves break below. Nip down a ladder for a refreshing ocean dip before lunching at the restaurant’s famous seafood mixed grill. Via Fontanelle, SN - 73020 Santa Cesarea Terme (Le) / +39 0836 944214 / www.bagnomarinoarchi.it

Punta della Suina Spilling out into the turquoise shallows, Gallipoli’s buzzing Punta della Suina is a magnet for the party crowd and the odd Hollywood star. With a tropical Caribbean vibe, this Apulian beach club is all about easy-breezy seaside fun in the day and thumping good tunes by night. Litoranea Gallipoli - S.M. di Leuca - 73014 Gallipoli (Le) / +39 348 742 7000 / https://bit.ly/2XjnBzk

Elite Tropical Prive Good living, Pugilan-style can be found on the talcum powder sands of the serene and sedate Elite Tropical Prive. Pitch up under a white umbrella with only the sounds of the gently lapping shores in your ears. Dine upon traditional Salento friselle in the cool confines of the restaurant’s shady terrace. SP91 - 73050 Torre Pali (Le) / +39 347 025 3264 / For more info visit: www.tropicalelite.it

Lido La Castellana On the outskirts of Otranto, the Ennio Capasa-owned Lido La Castellana is all about understated glamour. Smart umbrellas and loungers stand in neat rows on the softest sand that meets shallow turquoise waters. Refresh after a swim in Lido La Castellana’s natural cave shower before enjoying a healthy Mediterranean lunch at the pergola restaurant. Via Antonio Sforza - 73028 Otranto (Le) / +39 335 811 2520 / For more visit: www.lidolacastellana.com

Cotriero Beach & Risto Pub Blissed out bohemian vibes are the order of the day at Cotriero. Immersed in fragrant scrub and lush greenery, this laidback beach club sprawls from its seafront position over golden sands to the lapping Ionian. Chill with a fresh juice while the sun shines and sip cocktails and get ready to dance as the tempo picks up after dark. 73014 - Pizzo - Province of Lecce / +39 340 666 2833 / For more info visit: www.cotriero.it

Solatio di Torre Suda What Solatio lacks in sand it makes up for in endless sea vistas from its stunning decked terrace. Perched on a rugged cliff, Solatio is a trendy beach club delivering good times around the clock - from a sunny al fresco breakfast and lazy afternoon on a lounger right through ‘til after dark when it turns into a nightclub. Litoranea Gallipoli-Leuca, 1 - 73055 Torre Suda, Racale / +39 0833 582402 / For more: www.solatio.it

Skafè al Casotto A small bar oozing with rustic charm, Skafè al Casotto rests on the crest of a cliff in Porto Badisco. Come for the sunset views and stay for the great live music, masterful cocktails and artisanal pizza by the meter. 73028 Porto Badisco, Province of Lecce / +39 347 807 9251 / For more visit: www.facebook.com/skafelive

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Lido Kalù Spanning a lengthy stretch of the striking Rauccio Natural Park, Lido Kalù offers miles of sugary sands and calm waters to enjoy. A superlative seaside spot for families, reserve an umbrella and lounger for a fun day. Dine on classic Apulian dishes together in the restaurant. Via Itaca Lido, SNC - 73100 Torre Rinalda (Le) +39 389 684 8765 / For more visit: www.lidokalu.it

Kalé Cora

reserve with Cocobuk

Nestled in a tranquil sheltered cove, Kalé Cora is an oasis of calm. Parasols, sunbeds, canopies and gazebos await, read for you to slink into with a chilled smoothie in hand. Kalé Cora’s colorful menu is based around health-giving nutrition so expect superfood salads and acai bowls. SP366, 5 - 73026 Melendugno (Le) / +39 342 755 0626 / For more info visit: www.lidokalecora.com

Lido Friab / Pianeta Maratea The Grand Hotel Pianeta Maratea is a sanctuary of wellness conceived with allround wellbeing in Puglia in mind. Its private sandy beach Lido Friab (also open to the public) is a gorgeously scenic spot to unwind at. The bar serves delightful cold dishes and snacks, while umbrellas and cushioned sun loungers are available to hire.

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Contrada S. Caterina, 50 - 85046 Maratea (PZ) +39 0973 871966 / www.grandhotelmaratea.it

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Some things donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need an introduction. Like good food, a sophisticated ensemble, an invitation to a party and the finest wine. You just go with the flow. This special travel guide has been created to show you Puglia through the eyes of a local.

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T h e S c o l a n ova S y n a g o g u e

T h e C a s t l e o f Tr a n i

One of the four synagogues originally found in the ancient Jewish quarter, the Scolanova Synagogue is a beautiful example of Apulian Romanesque architecture. Built in the mid13th century, the synagogue was seized during a wave of forced conversions in 1380, adopting the name Santa Maria in Scolanova. 600 years later the church was reinstated as a synagogue and has been an active house of worship since 2005. Modest but of great visual impact, the limestone temple features three windows on its eastern wall (one on each side of the Torah Ark), and is dominated by a tympanum with the Star of David perched atop.

Built in 1233 during the reign of Frederick II of Swabia as a hub for his network of fortresses, this castle was built in order to protect the city from attackers coming from the sea and still dominates the Bay of Trani today. It was one of Manfredi’s, the son and heir of the great emperor, favorite residences and was the chosen location for his royal wedding with the Princess Elena of Epiro. Those nuptials are still celebrated today with historical reenactments, complete with distinct medieval costumes. Those nuptials are still celebrated, with historical reenactments for adults and children.

Via Scola Nova - 76125 Trani / +39 0883 481799 / +39 393 375 7734 (contact Iat Trani) turenum@prolocotrani.it / For more information on special tours, contact the JewishCommunity of Naples by email at: napoliebraica@gmail.com

Piazza Manfredi Re, 16 - 76125 Trani +39 0883 506 603 / +39 080 528 5249 Info: pm-pug.castelloditrani@beniculturali.it rosa.mezzina@beniculturali.it / Instagram page https://www.instagram.com/castellosvevoditrani/

T h e C a t h e d r a l o f Tr a n i

Castel Del Monte

Dedicated to Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, the Cathedral of Trani is another example of ﬁne Romanesque architecture with Norman simplicity on the interior. Original construction began in 1097 and was completed in the 13th century using the typical “pietra di Trani”, an extremely light calcareous tufa, which gives the building a soft pink color. Due to its position by the sea, isolated from the other monuments in the historical center, the Cathedral radiates a deﬁnitive presence, enhanced by the elegant 13th century bell tower that dominates the infrastructure.

Castel Del Monte is a 13th century citadel and castle situated atop a majestic hill in the region of Andria. Imagined by Emperor Frederick II who inherited the lands of his mother, Constance of Sicily. Whether it served as a fortress of defense or a multicultural place of gathering, it is impossible to know for sure. The visionary king left no testament to the reason for its construction. The castle features fine symmetric planning, geometric brilliance, and harmonious architecture that are simply surreal. It is recommended to visit the site with a guide. Hotspot for photographers.

Piazza Duomo - 76125 Trani (BAT) +39 0883 500 293 / Save time and book in advance / Info: rettore@cattedraletrani.it More info on: http://www.cattedraletrani.it/IT/

Andria 6123 (BAT) / +39 0883 569 997 +39 388 302 6000 (to book a private visits) https://www.casteldelmonte.beniculturali.it/ For more info: casteldelmonte@novaapulia.it

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Ristorante Corteinfiore Tucked in the courtyard of a 16th-century palace and just meters from the Port of Trani, this restaurant focuses on Mediterranean cuisine with contemporary twists. Michele Matera, patron of the local and his team of passionate and talented, young chefs have created a menu that highlights the abundance of the sea, with premium starters that include exquisite tartar and the freshest catch of the day. La Signora Maria (Micheleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mother) prepares exceptional homemade desserts in-house, all served alongside a selection of well-respected, local harvests. Via Ognissanti, 18 - 76125 Trani (BAT) +39 0883 508402 / Visit: www.corteinfiore.it info@corteinfiore.it / IG https://bit.ly/3c5qj1D

Quintessenza

Gi u l i a R i s to r a n te e B o tteg a

Four brothers unite to demonstrate their passion for the Apulian gastronomic heritage, surprising their guests with an abundance of southern Italian hospitality. Their culinary philosophy follows a combination of the highest-quality local products, innovative technique and interesting wine pairings. Indulge on local oysters, Atlantic codfish and fresh seafood in a minimalist yet welcoming setting.

Chef Vito Sassanelli follows his grandmotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emotional sentiment towards culinary art; once again, Pugliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s young generation shows us there is nothing ordinary about regional cuisine. The restaurant is cosy with just enough space for 10 tables, set under a restored stone roof, and steps from the Scola Nova Synagogue. Straightforward names contrast with surprising serving suggestions that create a delightful dining experience.

Via Nigro, 37 / 76125 Trani (BAT) +39 0883 880 948 / +39 3473804174 www.quintessenzaristorante.it / more info info@ quintessenzaristorante.it / Instagram https:// www.instagram.com/quintessenzaristorante/

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Piazza Cesare Battisti, 9 / 76125 Trani (BAT) +39 0883 198 5213 / +39 347 819 3930 www.giuliaristorante.com / For more info and reservation email to: info@giuliaristorante.it

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‘Nugnes 1920 Style definitely runs in this family; ‘Nugnes is an ultra refined boutique with a rich family heritage that dates back to the early 20th century when grandfather Giuseppe Nugnes used to tailor suits for wealthy bankers, nobles and bourgeois of the 1950s. The boutique is housed in a gorgeous, listed-building in the center of town - Palazzo Pugliese – perfect for showcasing fashion art forms, and features sleek and sophisticated interiors with a refined lounge to contemplate collections over coffee and conversation. Men’s boutique - Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 195 - 76125 Trani (BAT) / +39 0883 588863 Women’s boutique - Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 183 - 76125 Trani (BAT) / +39 0883 582620 www.nugnes1920.it / info at order@nugnes1920.it / Visit the Instagram page https://bit.ly/2W6zp8O

E d wa r d D o n n a Chic and contemporary alongside tried and true history; this haute women’s boutique carries leading brands off the runway as well as celebrated Italian labels. This boutique houses the coolest shoes and accessories, too. The men’s boutique is just down the road. Staff are friendly and helpful, with interesting pieces that might break the bank, but will definitely steal the show. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 215 / (Men’s Boutique: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 222) - 76125 Trani (BAT) +39 0883 588912 / edwardonna.it / For info email to: info@edwardonna.it / https://bit.ly/2L2M5r1

Shiski Concept Space This cultural container for the design world aims to promote and cultivate design ideas related to local crafts and the entire region. The cool space is located in Trani’s historic center, it features designers, young artisans and provides consulting services for residential and commercial projects, as well as the development of original design ideas. Workshops include pottery and woodworking. Via Beltrani, 32 / 76125 Trani (BAT) / +39 340 365 3393 / Visit the website: www.shiskiconceptspace. it For more email to: shiskiconceptspace@gmail.com / Visit the Instagram page https://bit.ly/2YBSPnH

Quadra A holiday in Puglia commands extra space for one-off gems and pieces, particularly if you step foot in this boutique. Meticulously curated by Sabrina Laurora and Gianpaolo Galasso, Quadra houses a rich collection of prestigious names and innovative Italian designers, with clothing, footwear, accessories, fragrance, and jewelry. Many may not know, but Puglia has always been the epicenter of textile and clothing production; Quadra relies on that tradition but goes beyond to offer something different; an overall style ethos that is definitively Italian and creatively chic. Men & Women: Via Avv. Vittorio Malcangi, 21/23 - 76125 Trani / +39 0883 482323 / For more info email to quadra.trani@gmail.com / or email to quadra.trani.uomo@gmail.com / Special Collections: Via Mario Pagano, 247/25 - 76125 Trani - +39 0883 507597 / quadra.costume@gmail.com / quadrashop.it/en/ More info: customerservice@quadragroup.it / Also visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3bzmvVu

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Pa l a zzo F i zza r o tti Mu s eu m Designed by architects Bernich and Corradini in 1800, this one-of-a-kind architectural monument was built in the Venetian Gothic style, and commissioned the ﬁnest artisans in Italy with teams of sculp- tors, painters, mosaics, glass blowers and blacksmiths each leaving their signature on this privately owned property. Inside is a lush inner courtyard with the Fountain of Neptune as the centerpiece. Private events and exhibitions can be arranged at the palace. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 193 - 70122 Bari / +39 080 521 2988 / palazzofizzarotti.it/en/ veracpoli@gmail.com

Pa l a z z o d e l l ’ A c q u e d o t t o

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Te a t r o Pe t r u z z e l l i

Doppelgaenger Art Gallery

This theater holds a strong pride of place with the local Barese that inhabit the city. In fact, residents from neighboring cities come here for an evening of culture, dance, and music. The construction of this cultural landmark began in 1898 and took four years to build, and from the start distinguished itself for its rich program and extraordinary capacity to host more than 2,000 spectators. The works of Verdi and Puccini ﬁrst saw light here, plus those of Piccinni and Bellini, and unforgettable voices have ﬁlled the theater with the enchantment of song.

Conceived by Antonella Spano and Michele Spinelli, this contemporary art gallery opened its doors in 2012 and offers two themes of artistic enquiry: figurative art and experimental video art, including art installations and rotating performances, The gallery is located in Palazzo Verrone, a medieval tower house that was converted into a noble Renaissance palace that now serves as a living residence for contemporary arts, where work and life constantly intersect to drive further creation and inspire cultural discourse.

Corso Cavour 12 - 70121 Bari / +39 080 9752850 Calendar & tickets: fondazionepetruzzelli.it/en/

Via Verrone 8 - 70121 Bari / +39 392 820 3006 More on: doppelgaenger.it / info@doppelgaenger.it

Il Palazzo dell’ “Acqua” is a cultural landmark in Puglia, rich in geometric patterns, upholstery, frescoes and furniture that embody the shape of water, as the vision of its commissioner was to bring water to Puglia and render the formerly barren land fertile and prosperous. The exterior reﬂects historic, local architectural traditions, and displays exceptional stone cutting skills seen principally in Trani, while inside are elaborate stylistic patterns that discerning eyes will devour with great appreciation. Via Salvatore Cognetti, 36 - 70121 Bari / +39 080 5723083 / For more info visit the website: www.aqp.it

Grotte di Castellana Located on the north side of the Itria Valley, researches claim that this natural heritage site, formed more than 90 million years ago. Located more than sixty meters under the earth’s surface are three kilometers of dimly lit trails, bordered by natural stalactites, stalagmites, fossils and immense slabs of icicles dripping painstakingly slow in the deep silence. Private tours can be booked in advance, as well as private events. Editor’s tip: book the Speleo Night tour after-hours followed by a candle-lit aperitivo in a womb of the earth. Piazzale Anelli - 70013 Castellana Grotte / +39 080 4998221 / grottedicastellana.it / segreteria@grottedicastellana.it

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Noh Samba Hagakure A classic address with international air. Noh Samba Hagakure offers an eclectic mix of Asian Fusion with Apulian and French influences, served in a lively, Brazil-inspired interior. The young chef Daniel Cavuoto is quickly attracting region-wide attention with his creations, appreciated by experienced purveyors. The delectable menu includes a sake menu, Pad Thai specials, Peruvian twists and more.

Ristorante Biancofiore A glimpse of Puglia, right in the heart of the historical town of Bari, so-called “Bari vecchia”. Ristorante Biancofiore is your perfect destination for an intimate, traditional Apulian meal, revised with a modern twist by a young chef named Giacinto Fanelli: think carpaccio and tartare, all served alongside primary ingredients from the beautiful countryside. Their picture-perfect desserts are not to be missed.

Via Salvatore Cognetti, 29 - 70121 Bari +39 080 883 4478 / www.hagakurenohsamba.it For more email to: info@hagakurenohsamba.it

Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 13 - 70122 Bari +39 080 523 5446 / ristorantebiancofiore.it For more email to: biancofiore.diego@libero.it

Oyster Bar Oyster Bar is the first of its kind of eatery in Bari, with laid-back cosmopolitan interiors that offer spaces to mingle with neighbors or dine one-on-one, and high-aesthetic dishes curated by Chef Lorenzo Lacriola. Oysters are sourced fresh and delivered twice a week. The pairing menu is perfect for oyster-aficionados, but also for those wanting a gin served by mixologists who understand. Friday nights feature live music while Sunday welcomes happy hour specials. Via Nicolò Putignani, 71 - 70121 Bari +39 331 569 6968 / Visit: www.oysterbari.it For more email to: oysterbar.bari@gmail.com

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R i va C l u b Riva Bari is a tasteful, one-stop address for dining, drinks and club. Interiors feature plush furniture, soft lighting and quirky wallpaper for a warm and cozy ambiance, with adequate distance between each table to grant space and privacy. Expect refined cuisine with uncompromising ingredients from their traditional Cavatelli to Red Angus, matched by a contemporary wine menu and quality mixology. Via Fiume, 7 - 70122 Bari / +39 391 485 4295 / www.rivabari.it / For more info: riva.socialnet@gmail.com

Mezcla Mezcla is an international kitchen that highlights Bari’s rising capital status and culinary passion. The menu combines ‘the best of ’ world cuisine, complemented by awesome cocktails. The tartare dishes are exceptionally delicious. Locals dub Mezcla as the best address in town for mixology mastery. While away the evening and gather with local Barese while great tunes and hip energy fill the air. Via Giuseppe Bozzi, 53 - 70121 Bari / +39 080 698 2113 / www.mezcla.it / For more info: info@mezclabari.it

Ai Due Ghiottoni Ai Due Ghiottoni is one of the oldest restaurants in Bari and considered one of the best in the Apulian capital. Its menu is truly traditional: orecchiette with green turnips, authentic carbonara and obviously fresh seafood caught fresh every day. Pizza lovers are in for a treat, too. Via Putignani 11/B - 70121 Bari / + 39 080 523 2240 / Visit: www.aidueghiottoni.it / info@ai2ghiottoni.it

R u Pe r u a n o A contemporary Fusian restaurant and bar with vibrant interiors and an energetic soul. Rú Peruano is the only Peruvian restaurant in the heart of Bari; the menu showcases staples from Asia and Europe. Try the Pisco Sour before or after dinner: Pisco liqueur, lime juice, egg white and Angostura bitters - you will not be disappointed. Via Andrea da Bari, 14 - 70122 Bari +39 080 645 2287 / Visit: www.ruperuano.it For more info email to: fagamisrl@gmail.com

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Ve r o n e r o C a f f è 60 years and going strong, Vero Nero Caffe’ has that perfect coffee that you’ve been looking for. With its elegant interior design and panini and shakes, this city-center spot is perfect for late breakfast, might we say it, catching up on work. Choose your favorite brew and

and interior space creative menu of all-day coffee and pack it home, too.

Via Niccolò Piccinni, 81 - 70122 Bari / +39 080 523 9588 / Visit: www.veronero.it / info@veronero.it

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Bottega d’Argilla The mission of this artistic association is to promote manual art in its expressive and creative forms. The studio features everything from colorful necklaces to vases by students and artists. If you love working with clay, check the website for the schedule of workshops - and practice some dialect. Via S. Francesco d’Assisi 38 - 70122 Bari +39 348 004 3274 / https://bit.ly/3dqUbpz / bottegadargilla@gmail.com

Legno di Puglia

Mimma Ninni

A trio of Apulian designers decided that instead of letting wood from olive trees burn they could do something better - and they have. The eco-sustainable laboratory ‘Wood of Puglia’ (Legno di Puglia) promotes the preservation and promotion of Apulian wood culture, leveraging the strength and beauty of the region’s ancient olive trees to create beautiful, one-off pieces from kitchenware to furniture. Woodworking courses are available upon request and by appointment.

A unique space of fashion research for luxury brands and with more than nineteen window displays. What started as a modest business gradually grew and today the boutique has three shops in town. Perfect for discerning fashion-lovers who appreciate a good buy, unique pieces and Italian service.

Via Castore Giacomo, 6/2 - 70020 Bitetto / +39 349 378 0311 / legnodipuglia.com / info@legnodipuglia.com

Via Nicolò Putignani, 32 / Via Melo 91/D Via Nicolò Putignani, 45/A - 70121 Bari +39 080 524 1922 / www.mimmaninnishop.com

Boutique Luciana Located in Bari’s most fashion district, this respected boutique hosts an impressive collection of pret-a-porter, shoes and accessories. Boutique Luciana has been styling the dames of Bari since the 1960s, with a great selection of celebrated luxury brands and emerging talents. Via Dante Alighieri, 31 - 70121 Bari / +39 080 521 1886 / www.lucianabari.com / info@lucianabari.com

Corderia 1995 Located a stone’s throw from Teatro Petruzzelli, Corderia 1995 is more an art gallery than a furniture store. Stunning objects will transfix you: porcelain and silver collections, haute fabrics for interiors of the home or office, contemporary works of art and unique furnishing accessories. Sandro, the owner, welcomes each client with an in-depth chat about the project, personal taste and objectives. Via XXIV Maggio, 39 - 70125 Bari +39 080 524 1050 / www.corderia1995.it For more info email to: info@corderia1995.it

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C.a.m. Boutique A British-style boutique located at the intersection of the old town and city centre of Bari. It has been welcoming clients since the 1950s with some of the best labels in the fashion industry, from the runway to lesser-known British and Italian ateliers. A good address to keep on hand for lastminute parties or special occasions in Puglia. Via Nicolò Piccinni, 68 - 70122 Bari / +39 080 521 8984 www.cambari.altervista.org / cam.bari@libero.it

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M i c a e l a Tr i z i o C a i a t i

Lusso Mediterraneo

The Caiati family has been servicing clients since 1925, now led by great granddaughter, Micaela Caiati, the daughter of an entrepreneur who pioneered the Autrix watch brand. Today Micaela is the sole creative mastermind behind the collections and custom orders, delivering craftsmanship, quality, design and flawless service.

Maria Elena Savini’s handmade jewellery brand, Lusso Meditteraneo, stands out for its bold, modern and audacious twist. Playful yet always feminine. Her collection incorporates everything Apulian and Mediterranean: goldstudded sea urchins, ruby red octopuses, wildlife, olive branches, forgotten royals, sumptuous fruit, and enchanting crescent moons. The artist’s kiln and workshop are located in Mola di Bari and worth a visit. By appointment.

Via Sparano, 93 - 70121 Bari / +39 080 521 6746 www.triziocaiati.com / info@triziocaiati.com

Via Cadetto, 16 - Mola di Bari (Ba) +39 392 051 3366 / lussomediterraneojewels.com For more: info@lussomediterraneojewels.com

Mossa Gioielleri Bari

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Claude Boutique

In the heart of Bari’s main shopping district, Mario Mossa welcomes clients into a carefully curated and handsome space. Inherited from his family who founded the business back in the 1850s, Mario has retained the boutique’s reputation as a reference point for elegant, luxury wear in the city. Highly elaborate pieces and bespoke settings are available.

After: For those ‘je ne sais quoi’ smart wardrobe pieces, Claude has to be included on the must-visits in Bari. The meticulously handpicked women’s collection features the season’s most important themes and cuts, complete with friendly service and advice from the staff. The store’s minimalist aesthetic certainly guides the browsing experience. The French-meets-Italian style never fails.

Via Sparano da Bari, 44 - 70121 Bari BA +39 080 521 8835 / www.mariomossa.it For more info email to: direzione@mariomossa.it

Via Antonio Beatillo, 45 - 70121 Bari / +39 080 524 4686 / Facebook: https://bit.ly/3cgmM0I For more email to: claude.bari.adelfia@gmail.com

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R i s t o r a n t e d a Tu c c i n o

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Puro

One of the most famous seafood restaurants in Puglia celebrated for its impeccably fresh seafood served front-row on the Adriatic coast. The family-run restaurant opened its doors more than 50 years ago relying on tradition, hospitality and a relentless passion for fish and seafood recipes. The menu includes an impressive variety of smoked salmon, and alongside first and second courses are tasting menus that include oysters, carpaccio, potato gnocchi with mussels and clams, fresh filet, and homemade desserts.

Sushi aﬁcionados who have sampled Japanese cuisine in international capitals are in for a surprise. The owner’s understanding of how sushi ought to be, and how else the raw food experience can be, is evident in the chefs’ mastery over compositions and quality - always relying on the abundance of Puglia’s raw materials. The ‘Sushi Special’ is a must-try dish composed of ﬁve in-house masterpieces, and the Wagyu sashimi melts in your mouth. Private dinners available on request. Booking required.

Via S. Caterina, 69/F - 70044 Polignano a Mare +39 080 4241560 / Discover on: www.tuccino.it For more info and reservation: info@tuccino.it

Via S. Vito 15-17 - 70044 Polignano a Mare (Ba) +39 080 403 8044 / More info on: puro-sushi.com

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M O N O PO LI M y Wi n e This charming little spot is a winner for those who appreciate home-conceived gourmet cooking with a slow-food concept. Alongside traditional recipes are modern nuances. Interiors are laid-back with comfortable seating, ambient lighting and pleasant background music; outside are a few tables to accommodate balmy summer nights. Good food meets good wine; all paired with the ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creative eye and professional service. Absolute unmissable is the homemade gelato. Via Cavaliere, 7 - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) +39 080 205 9095 / +39 320 367 5395 For more info visit website: www.mywineitaly.it

CaffĂ¨ del Corso

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A cozy, family run cafĂŠ open even on Mondays. All-day brunch is available 7 days a week featuring international favorites such as Eggs Benedict, omelets, club sandwiches and salmon on toast. The lunch menu changes daily depending on the season and availability, and is sharing-friendly, with breaded mussels, tossed salads, baked pastas and grilled vegetables. Nice spot for people watching, too, with indoor and outdoor seating.

I l B r i g a n t e Tr a t t o r i a

La Bussola Pizzeria

Abundant, seafood antipasti, Apulian style, that hits the spot. Il Brigante Trattoria pays homage to traditional Apulian cuisine in its charming little trattoria in the historical town of Monopoli. Whether you fancy a fresh fish or want to journey through shared plates and a main course (may we suggest the tagliatelle), you will appreciate the presentation and experience.

A much-loved pizza place in Monopoli, the owners at La Bussola select the finest ingredients and combine them with their love of pizza. Highlights included the original Margherita and the tried-and-tested favorite of octopus carpaccio and fior di latte mozzarella. A perfect go-to for vegetarians, thanks to a smorgasbord of generous toppings.

Corso Umberto I, 58 - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) +39 080 321 9778 / caffedelcorsomonopoli.it

Via Cavaliere 17 - 70043, Monopoli (Ba) +39 333 542 2888 / FB https://bit.ly/2YGq6yc

Via Remigio Ferretti, 10B - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) +39 329 773 9944 / FB https://bit.ly/2Wbn2IB

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Pizzeria Pulcinella

Dal Ghiottone

Pizzeria Pulcinella was born from the ambitious project of the Ricchezza family, Neapolitan for generations, to bring real Neapolitan pizza to Puglia. Meet Luigi, an expert pizza master who is obsessed about his art. He started a professional school for pizzaioli (pizza makers) that immediately gained international success. This place is perfect to take in the bustling Apulian atmosphere, where two traditions meet together to fill your souls with passion.

Dal Ghiottone is part of the Monopoli Movida. Chef Paolo Gilberti’s mission was to create a place dedicated to food and wine culture. The location is a real humdinger; elegantly furnished rooms offering cuisine inspired by the Apulian gastronomic tradition and enriched with creative solutions dedicated to the care and refinement of the raw materials that enhance the products of the Adriatic Sea. Expect friendly staff and cordial service.

Via Fra’ Girolamo Ippolito, 25-25/A - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) / +39 080 246 2225 / Visit the Facebook page: https://bit.ly/2L7KPCY

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 5 - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) +39 080 321 7373 / www.ristorantedalghiottone.it Visit the Facebook page: https://bit.ly/2SGVaK2

Metæ

L a L o c a n d a d e i Pe s c a t o r i

Discover refined Mediterranean cuisine infused with unique flavors, and inspired by local and international ingredients. The menu is simple but the food is wonderfully fresh with a nod to gourmet cooking. Sit back, enjoy great service, reliable recommendations, and watch through the open kitchen where the chef absorbs the aromas, binds the flavors and creates his small culinary works of art.

Aesthetics aside, begin the feast with a glass of sparkling wine. La Locanda dei Pescatori is a hot spot for chic locals and travelers; the exposed brick walls, the pure-white-meetsseaside interiors and the relaxed ambience will let you sink into sumptuous tortellini, fresh seafood and fish platters – and a selection of meat dishes should you prefer. Do not miss their dainty fried calamari.

Via dell’erba 63 - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) +39 080 246 2225 / FB https://bit.ly/3drmFQ1

Via Porto, 17 - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) +39 080 914 2359 / FB https://bit.ly/2WaPGJZ

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Alchemico Bar & Cose Right from its opening Alchemico Bar e Cose became a hotspot in Monopoli’s nightlife scene. It has that big-town vintage flair and lively atmosphere that just attracts. Drinks are the main event here, from world whiskies, rums to classic spirits, wines and beers. This is a “must be the place” for mixology cocktails. Things happen here, particularly around the bar with a three-storey treasure trove of fine drinks. Mingle with locals and enjoy tapas all night long. C.so Pintor Mameli, 1 - 70043 Monopoli / +39 388 933 1723 / FB https://bit.ly/3doxsug IG https://bit.ly/3b9FeXl

Dante 5 The Dante 5 boutique has a strategic position that ladies cannot miss, right at the entrance to the historic center of Monopoli, in one of the town’s most stunning buildings. Dante 5 is synonymous with luxury in Puglia and proof that it certainly exists down south in a big way. Browse fine brands and accessories for women and men. Good news is that one piece ‘that got away’ can always be ordered online. The second boutique is located in the center of Bari. L.go Plebiscito 13/14 - 70043 Monopoli / +39 080 5210327 080 5225595 / dante5.com / https://bit.ly/2L5p86D

Appartamento 54 Sometimes high-street stores do not quite scratch that shopping itch and when that happens, it means it is time to hit Monopoli’s coolest store, Appartamento 54. This concept store carries no brands; instead, it plays host to neutral stylistic statements from all over Europe allowing you to decide what goes. The boutique nearby is perfect for your little ones, too. Via Capitan Pirrelli 54/58 - 70043 Monopoli / +39 080 746583 / FB https://bit.ly/2A8CBIF Men: https:// bit.ly/2WApyXE Women: https://bit.ly/2SEMfsU / For more info email to: appartamento54@libero.it

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White Boutique White Boutique is all about street soul style, offering brands such as Diadora Heritage, Diadora Sport, Franklin & Marhsall, to Levi’s Made & Crafted, Levi’s Vintage, Champion, Roberto Collina and more. The mix is intriguing and proves that street chic means anything goes. A constantly evolving boutique, always hunting for the next pattern and cut. The White Shop has also a range of clothes for women. Bring your other half here and spend some time choosing your best outfit. Via Umberto I, 46 - 70043 Monopoli / +39 080 74789 / afcwhite.com / amministrazioneafcwhite@gmail.com For more info visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3cbbNpb / Facebook page: https://bit.ly/3fqelBE

E n o t e c a I l Tr a l c i o

Malibu Concept Store A space dedicated to cutting-edge fashion and avant-garde creativity, Malibu Concept Store is the go-to address for luxury brands and haute couture for men and women with a wide range of brands including Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Herno, Valentino, and Les Hommes. Service is flawless, dedicated and one-on-one. Two additional locations in Ostuni and Savelletri. Via T. Col. Pasquale Camicia 39/A - 70043 Monopoli +39 080 802070 / malibuconceptstore.it / info@ malibuconceptstore.it / IG https://bit.ly/2WctYW1

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L’Enoteca il Tralcio is the reference point for wine-lovers of quality and for those who are curious to know more about the fascinating national and international wine world. A wine lover’s landmark in Monopoli since 1986, Pierluigi Pipolo still manages his wine shop, and has always retained his forward-thinking vision and creativity to interpret modernity in a place that values above all the history and real traditions of wine. Here he combines both elements, leaving us contemporaries to reminisce about the past in utter delight. Via Daniele Manin, 33 - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) / +39 080 9301366 / enotecailtralcio.it / FB https://bit.ly/3cmCF5q

Vi n è E n o t e c a Look beyond for a different kind of vino experience and delve deeper into Puglia’s wealth of wine cellars and independent producers. Vine’ Enoteca is just the place to do that, particularly if you have your sights set on something specific - the perfect substitute for a souvenir if we might add. May we suggest: bring home a bottle of unexpected Apulian rose. Via Tenente Vitti, 112/A - 70043 Monopoli (Ba) / +39 329 241 3076 vine-winebar.business.site For more infor visit Facebook page: https://bit.ly/3baT4bY / More info at: vinenonsoloenoteca@gmail.com

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San Domenico Golf

FA S A N O

Home to prestigious tournaments such as the National Open and the Italian PGA Championship, the 18-hole golf course with a par of 72 maximizes the gameplay experience with the slopes of the Itria Valley on one side and the Adriatic Sea on the other. Its exposure to unpredictable winds from the sea and intricate design make the course particularly challenging. After an enthusing game, head to the Clubhouse for a cup of coffee or an excellent lunch. Savelletri di Fasano - 72010 Fasano (Br) +39 0804829200 / Visit: sandomenicogolf.com For info email at: info@sandomenicogolf.com

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To r r e M a i z z a G o l f

L’Officina dell’Essere

Set in the hotel grounds of the Rocco Forte Hotel, the Torre Maizza golf course is surrounded by sublime views of ancient olive trees and rolling landscapes that meet the Adriatic Sea. The 1,150-metre, par 27 course boasts flawlessly manicured split-level greens where golf players can take advantage of fantastic views as well as excellent practice facilities including a driving range, putting green, pitching green and practice bunker. The generous driving range gives players the chance to practice their swing with 270-metre targets, while golfers seeking to develop their technique can do so with a private lesson - available for both adults and children. Golf sets, trolleys and cart rentals are available.

This holistic workshop and wellness center in Fasano is owned and managed by Filippo and Luana, a couple who moved from Bologna to Fasano eight years ago to solidify their shared love for a life guided by energy, balance, inner peace and wellbeing. Alongside personal growth counseling, therapeutic massage and Pilates classes (private and groups), the couple has developed ‘Emotional Pilates’, a new method that combines techniques from, yoga, postural gymnastics and holistic rituals - the elixir of long life. Trial lessons available. While the holistic studio is certainly the ideal space, it is also possible to book a treatment at the client’s location.

Contrada Coccaro - 72015 Savelletri di Fasano (Br) +39 080 482 7838 / for more info email at: concierge.torremaizza@roccofortehotels.com

Via Gronchi, 16 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 393 335 6724 / For more info visit the Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/officinadellessere

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A l Pa l a z z o Al Palazzo is all about mixing origins with something new, adding value and respect to the earth by using raw materials with passion and offering love and respect to this beautiful land. Two seating options include in the former barn house now converted into a cozy dining lounge, or outdoors amid the rows of citrus trees in a line-up of tables that is always ready for a festive dining experience with friends. The chef prepares an exquisite lemon linguine with fresh shrimp and Stracciatella cheese as well as excellent pan-fried salmon. Additional favorites include mixed fried fish and there is an impressive selection of health-conscious dishes that all change every season. Bookings recommended. Via Roma, 87 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 333 583 6117 / al-palazzo.com / For more email to: info@al-palazzo.com

R i s t o r a n t e d a S i l vè

Pe n t o l e e P r ove t t e

A veritable gem in the heart of town, Silve’s a must-stop for local Fasanese traditions. Join Silvestro the delightful host and his 69-year-old feisty mother, the queen of the kitchen. There is no menu here; just have a seat outside in the piazzetta and let the duo take you on a culinary journey of celebrated, local dishes. It all starts with a generous selection of starters that continue with homemade quiches, pasta, butter soft meat options, cooked vegetables and a lineup of wonderful desserts - all accompanied by local wine recommended by Silvestro and culminating in a sample of Silvestro’s own exquisite homemade liquor.

Fuori Menù

La Locanda di Martumè

Fuori Menù is a new kitchen in town with charming interiors and creative dishes created by Chef Giuseppe who uses fresh produce from the land and sea to create a seasonal menu revisiting traditional cooking with unconventional ingredients from Puglia, accompanied by an impressive range of wine. Our favorites including homemade pasta and meat. Dessert? Try the pistachio pie.

This quaint, family-run restaurant in the historical center of Fasano gives this small town a grand dose of character come summer; outdoor tables line the narrow road and alleys with tea lights, overflowing plants and an effortlessly charming atmosphere. It is the epitome of alfresco dining in southern Italy. Its traditional cuisine is inspired by the rhythm of the seasons, with the freshest local produce, game, and dairy products. Booking recommended.

Siena-born chef Luca Trabalzini started his culinary career at the age of 15 with a passion for cooking that took him all the way to Australia, where he acquired innovative cooking techniques and brought them back home, here to Fasano. The experience that awaits at this Gastro-Bistro is full of great surprises - definitely for those who enjoy the unexpected. Chef Trabalzini defines his cuisine as ‘pop’ and there is definitely a culinary dance going on here, between hot and cold, salty and sweet, crunchy and creamy. Trabalzini was a finalist in last year’s Chef Awards 2019 in Assisi - the first-ever to come from Fasano. The menu changes according to seasonal ingredients and is wonderfully paired with lesser-known labels; you may be lucky enough to have the beef cheek with rice crispies and beetroot available as well as the tartare on an ice cream stick, the light-as-air Parmigiana, and the popcorn and caramel panna cotta.

Via Santa Teresa, 36 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 080 332 4666 / Facebook page: https://bit.ly/3cbWH2N

Via Musco, 37 - 72015 Fasano / +39 348 655 4811 https://bit.ly/2SIvj4I / pentoleeprovette@gmail.com

Via Tinella, 18 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / By reservation only / For more info and reservation: +39 331 722 6444

Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 139 - 72015 Fasano (Br) +39 080 567 9850 / Facebook https://bit.ly/2zevv4S For more info: ristorante@fuorimenufasano.it

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Caffè Bella Napoli Overlooking Piazza Ciaia, this elegant espresso and wine bar is the place to ‘see and be seen’, particularly at aperitif time when locals gather for cocktails matched with an array of seasonal gastronomic treats including Beluga caviar, Cantabria anchovies and fresh oysters. The owner Donato has his own line of wine called MOSS, growing in vineyards in the countryside of Taranto, well worth a glass or two. It is also a top address for coffee, breakfast and the paper - and while there is no Wi-Fi, you can still sit back and watch the world pass you by. Piazza Ciaia, 7 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 080 442 2464 / Visit Facebook page: https://bit.ly/2Wbf6Hn

Cafeteria Cafeteria is one of the most respected cafes in town. Traditional delicacies and homemade croissants are made fresh daily while local Fasanese line up at the bar each morning for coffee. The air is filled with the fragrance of perfectly roasted espresso and a selection of freshly baked pastries, including patisserie, whole wheat, and vegan and carbon croissants. Coffee-goers with the luxury of time can find a seat at the back and catch up with the world. Good location for remote work. Via San Francesco di Paola, 14 / 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 333 195 2763 / FB https://bit.ly/35GIHeE

Caffè Rodio Italians are obsessed with coffee and across the town of Fasano you will be able to sip the perfect cup at Caffe’ Rodio while tasting their delicious cakes and desserts: Tiramisu’, Babba’, summer granitas, and more. Caffe’ Rodio serves perfectly executed hot and cold drinks, so whether you are after a cup to take away, somewhere to linger with your laptop or to enjoy a pre-dinner aperitivo - this café is your little heaven. Via Pezzolla, 9 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 080 442 2972 / For more info visit the website: www.cafferodio.it

Pa s t i c c e r i a Ve l l e t r i Considered one of the best pastry shops in Southern Italy, Pasticceria Velletri has excellent cakes, a great array of pies, croissants, baba rum cakes and even gelato. Come morning locals line up for fresh bread and sweet pastries while ‘ladies who lunch’ linger for freshly brewed coffee enjoyed in the dining area, surrounded by welcoming and courteous staff. Via F.lli Rosselli, 90 - 72015 Fasano / +39 080 441 3020 / pasticceriavelletri.com / velletri@pasticceriavelletri.com

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A n g e l i n i E n g l i s h Ta i l o r ’ s

Cupertino

Located in a wing of the historic Palazzo Pezzolla, Angelini English Tailor’s boutique in Fasano blends the sobriety of Englishstyle clothing with the best of Italian tailoring traditions, offering a selection of high-end casual and tailored menswear, shoes, swimwear and accessories with a professional, refined and attentive eye to detail and style. Brands include Borriello, Gallo, Barba Napoli, Entre Amis, and Church’s.

What started as a modest shoe shop opened by Leonardo Cupertino’s father has turned into a renowned boutique for men and women’s wear led by Cupertino Jr. The two boutiques are located just meters away from one another with rotating collections of upscale clothing, outerwear, shoes and accessories, leaving you eager to try them on for size. Staff offer maximum availability and full trust in their relationships with customers, including special orders.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 30-32 72015 Fasano (Br) +39 080 441 4607 / FB https://bit.ly/2SEhVyv

Via Forcella, 75 - 72015 Fasano / +39 0804391313 FB: https://bit.ly/2WcezFd / www.cupertino.it

Cedro Gioielleria

Carla Cairoli

A historic, family-owned boutique with leather goods, silverware, writing instruments, glassware, jewelry for women and men and watches. Established in the 1960s by Leonardo Cedro, CEDRO Gioielleria catered to the noble families and wealthy individuals who sought particular pieces then, and who continue to request advice and special orders. The boutique is run by his descendant Marco who cures innovative collections and unique pieces, including collaborations with Piaget and Cartier among prestigious brands. The boutique offers watch and jewelry repair services, too.

Carla Cairoli graduated from the Istituto d’Arte di Monopoli in 1989 and finally launched her own brand of womenswear in 2013, featuring handcrafted and hand-painted collections, printed accessories and scarves. In her elegant boutique Carla proposes a collection of ready-to-wear and bespoke garments made in flattering cuts, inspired by the chic of Paris. In order to maintain the exclusivity of her creations, she often designs one-off pieces and prints limited editions in full Made in Italy style.

Corso Garibaldi, 19 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 080 441 361 / More on: www.cedrogioielleria.it

Corso Garibaldi, 59 - 72015 Fasano (Br) +39 320 0795669 / +39 080 2461009 For more visit the website: www.carlacairoli.it

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This shop is a little museum set in a gorgeous palazzo in the center of town, with original frescoed ceilings. The handpicked collections are dreamy and express the fine taste of the owner, Anna Maria, who is always impeccably dressed. Staff are friendly and discrete allowing you to explore at ease. Among the brands are D-Exterior, Dondup, Jucca, Manila Grace, L’autre chose, Weili Zheng, Les Coyotes de Paris, 8PM, Se-ta, and Rada’. Perfect for your Apulian last minute summer must-haves.

Marzolla Calzature

Fa r m a c i a B a r n a b a

We love the long window passage with its lovely showcase of shoes and handbags, located on Corso Garibaldi. Marzolla Calzature prides itself on supplying a great collection of quality Italian shoes for women, with famous names produced by haute designers in Italy and across Europe. Impeccable quality, tasteful collections and great buys including lovely handbags.

Not just a pharmacy but also a beauty and wellbeing boutique in the center of town, that is among the locals’ favorite. Supplements, herbals teas, skin care, beauty products, perfumes, and bath products for men, women, children and infants. Labels include Vichy, Roger Gallet, La Roche Posay, Lierac, NUXE, Dercos, Jowae, and more.

Corso Garibaldi, 38-40 - 72015 Fasano / +39 080 968 2976 / Facebook page: https://bit.ly/2SKOc74

Corso Garibaldi, 48 - 72015 Fasano (Br) / +39 080 442 637 / Facebook page: https://bit.ly/2xIvjKL

Via Tinella, 52/A - 72015 Fasano (Br) +39 080 441 3317 / +39 393 992 6634 / For more info visit: farmaciabarnaba.it / info@farmaciabarnaba.it

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SAV E LLE T R I O s t e r i a d e l Po r t o Located at the port of Savelletri, this familyrun eatery is famous for its consistent quality, hospitality and traditional recipes. Recently refurbished with an extended dining space, the unassuming and laid-back restaurant offers an air-conditioned indoor space and outdoor deck-front seating facing the marina. It is usually fully booked but walk-ins are accommodated as best as possible. We suggest sampling everything from the fresh bread and long line of appetizers to sharing first and second dishes for the best experience. For a quick bite, the Spaghetti Alle Vongole hits the spot every time. Savor it all with a bottle of crisp white or rosé. Booking recommended. Via del Porto, 19 - 72015 Savelletri (Br) +39 338 280 5468 osteriasavelletri.it / For more info email to: info@osteriasavelletri.it

Luna Rossa In this quaint little town, Luna Rossa retains a good name for itself with friendly service, a refined setup and pleasant dining experience, while facing the marina with glimpses of the blue Apulian sea. The afternoon shade offers respite from the summer sun with indoor seating and air conditioning. The daily catch comprises fresh fish, mussels, shrimp and seafood. Luna Rossa is open for lunch and dinner. Bookings recommended. Via Fiume, 32 - 72015 Savelletri (Br) +39 339 628 0950 / More on: lunarossasavelletri.it

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TORRE CANNE Ciporti A sublime view of the sparkling Torre Canne coastline and the sea out front, while you are sipping your favorite cocktails in the golden light of the sunset and under the stars. Ciporti is also a nice spot for an easy lunch with tapas, fried fish and seafood and plenty of wine and cocktails. The place is also open for dinner and aperitifs, following the same easy-going menu. Enjoy one of their famous specials, grilled octopus sandwich - a delicious light bite on a hot summer day. Via Eroi del Mare, 109 - 72016 Torre Canne (Br) / +39 339 449 0940 / Visit: ciporti.business.site

Amare Amare is a harbor side restaurant owned by a young entepreneur from Fasano who also runs one of the area’s most successful live-music bars (Bloody Mary). This beautiful spot in Torre Canne indicates both its location ‘at sea’ and a love for the bounty of the Adriatic Sea. Expect professional and cordial service at this seafood hotspot and an ambiance that is suitable for relaxed romantic dinners or a night out with friends. Seafood is, of course, the order of the day. Go for classic grilled fish as the main course and a variety of shared starters, paired with a bottle of regional white wine before ending with cocktails. Nice atmosphere and attentive service, even during the warm summer nights. Booking recommended. Via Eroi del Mare, 115 - 72015 Torre Canne (Br) / +39 393 904 1002 / FB https://bit.ly/2SF2KFh

PEZZE DI GRECO Pa n t a l e o A g r i c o l t u r a - A g r o b i s t r o t One of the things we love most about this organic farm kitchen is its setting, smack in the middle of the countryside, surrounded by agricultural fields. Outside is a wooden deck with lounge chairs and outdoor string lights in the evening, making it a lovely spot for groups who like to dine in the open. At Pantaleo Agricoltura, you can find a wide assortment of fresh organic produce sourced by local farmers and led by a young team - if you are renting a summer home this is a great place to pick up nature’s best. What’s more, the kitchen is vegetarian and vegan-friendly so you can immerse yourself in the fresh air, surrounded by olive trees and the best of Puglia in your plate. SS16 72015 Speziale (Br) / +39 339 250 9307 / www.pantaleoagricoltura.it / FB https://bit.ly/2L7BI50

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OSTUNI

A l S o l i t o Po s t o

Dish Restaurant

Malibu Store

A few steps from the historic center, Al Solito Posto is a real institution for the residents of La Città Bianca (The White Town) and always a fabulous discovery for visitors. The menu is perfect for those looking for regional cuisine that is traditional and innovative, and balanced with a selection of pizza, seafood and fish specialties. A genuine cuisine made of local raw materials and deep passion for the culinary art.

There is an interesting play between the informal atmosphere and well-curated recipes at this experimental style eatery. Alongside an appreciation for plants is a love of life with a good feeling vibe. For something out of the ordinary and beyond the traditional Apulian kitchen, DISH offers an inspiring seasonal menu where guests can experience new culinary techniques applied to seafood, meat, vegetables and vegetarian dishes. Staff is professional, courteous, and helpful in pairing wines. Book in advance and request a table with a panoramic view.

You can feel the pulse of the catwalk just walking into this boutique and you know something good is about to happen. Malibu Concept Store is a space dedicated to cutting-edge fashion and avant-garde creativity, outfitted with sleek furniture, full-mirror walls and service as if you were in your best friend’s walk-in wardrobe. The address for luxury and haute couture for men and women including the likes of Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Herno, Valentino, and Les Hommes.

Via Cesare Braico, 37 - 72017 Ostuni / Info +39 0831 305850 / More on: ostunialsolitoposto.it

Po r t a N ova Set right at the entrance to the old city following an uphill cobblestone path, Porta Nova is one of those must-try restaurants thanks to its warm ambiance, valley views that extend to the sea and reliably good cooking with excellent service. The menu pays homage to Puglia’s abundant raw materials with nuances of international cuisine. Soak up some rays as you sip fresh wine or simply admire the expanse of great countryside surrounding: the natural romantic air here makes it perfect for couples and small groups. The house cellar features prestigious regional and national labels.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 37 - 72017 Ostuni +39 347 249 9860 / More on: dishrestaurant.it Visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3cg0BaL

Via Monsignor G.Palma, 67 - 72017 Ostuni / +39 0831 093508 / For more visit: malibuconceptstore.it

Amore Boutique Set on one of Ostuni’s main shopping roads, Amore Boutique is hard to miss. The eye-catching ensembles and Art Deco-style wall full of jewelry, accessories, candles and perfume reel you in. As perfume is an extremely intimate dialogue with the person who wears it, there are at least 70 varieties to explore. The concept store offers a handpicked selection of high-end fashion pieces and a rotating seasonal collection of womenswear and shoes that have a place in every traveler’s wardrobe. Via Pola, 70 - 72017 Ostuni / +39 0831 302497 / More on: www.profumiamore.it / info@profumiamore.it

Via Gaspare Petrarolo, 38 - 72017 Ostuni +39 0831 338983 / ristoranteportanova.com Visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/35GPEwu

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CA ROV I G N O C a s a l e Fe r r ov i a This family-run restaurant is located at the most unconventional of places: at the edge of the road by the Carovigno train station, surrounded by endless olive groves. Set in the warehouse of a 1930s olive mill, natural sunlight dances across the windows and the star-shaped vaults and interiors that relish the charm of authentic vintage without forgetting to pepper in a contemporary edge. House waiter and Sommelier Giuseppe tends to the guests while his wife and House Chef Maria runs the show in the back with a kitchen based on local raw provisions from the territory, fusing tradition with modern adaptations. Booking recommended. Via Stazione 1, S.P. 34 - Carovigno (Br) / +39 0831 990025/ For more info visit the website: casaleferrovia.it

P U T I G NA N O

When Luigi Pugliese decided to carve his own culinary path with a new eatery, he focused on tradition as his one core value. Seven years and going strong, his restaurant is a respected address in Putignano, popular among locals and visitors. While the kitchen is small, it packs Puglia in delightful abundance. He turns fresh organic, zero-kilometer Apulian products in delicious and creative meals with a wide range of vegetarian and vegan options.

Angelo Sabatelli is one of the most renowned Italian chefs. Cooking is an art ingrained since childhood and after working in kitchens across the globe, Chef Sabatelli returned to his roots and set up a place of his own. His sensational, ‘creative and intelligent contamination’ style cooking has rightfully earned him a Michelin star. With the help of his wife and partner, Laura, they set up a refined space in the historic center of Putignano where his culinary vision translates to sumptuous dishes. Minimal interiors, sturdy dining chairs and soft lighting, offset with bold culinary compositions by the Michelin-starred chef. Taste your way through Puglia with various tasting menus that show off his masterpieces made with Puglia’s finest raw ingredients, some sourced directly from his own garden - we recommend the “Extra Territorial Emotions”. Booking is obligatory.

Via Santa Lucia, 18 - 70017 Putignano (Ba) / +39 080 405 8430 / For info email to: scinua@hotmail.it

Via S. Chiara, 1 - 70017 Putignano / +39 080 405 2733 / angelosabatelliristorante.com / https://bit.ly/2Z1Nnuq

Scinuà

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Angelo Sabatelli

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CISTERNINO LO C O ROTO N D O U’ Curdunn U’ Curdunn is located in the historic center of picturesque Locorotondo; a historic town in the Valle d’Itria that becomes a highlight come summer with plenty of festivals and fireworks shows. Nestled in a maze of white stone streets and alley, the restaurant is among the best in the region and a must-try for people visiting the valley. The owners are friendly and hospitable; let them take you on a journey of traditional cuisine that relies on fresh local ingredients. Try the whole-wheat pasta bio with guanciale (beef cheek, a delicacy in Puglia) or if you are vegetarian, opt for the broad bean puree with chicory. Via Dura, 19 - 70010 Locorotondo / +39 080 4311433 / For more info visit the website : ristoranteucurdunn.it

Piatto Piano

Giardini 36

Enoteca Cantina Semeraro

Piatto Piano is the right mix between tradition and modernity to satisfy all palates, from the most typical to the most unusual ones, all served in a welcoming atmosphere. Curated and led by a young team, the restaurant leverages solely local produce to offer experimental cuisine that revisits local tradition. Interiors have a cosmopolitan, international air, and its central location makes it a nice spot for people watching too.

Rising from the grounds of a family-run organic farm, Giardini 36 is an experimental kilometer-zero eatery with a wide array of generous Apulian tapas with a creative interpretation. Guests may dine at the “Table of Friendship” as it is called, or for more intimacy, reserve your spot in the adjacent dimly lit back room with just four tables. Fresh, homegrown products become mouthwatering pies and stews - an effortless delight for vegetarians while offering tasty fish and tartare options too. The wine list features regional vineyards in concert with the gastronomic experience.

Enoteca Semeraro is a family-owned and managed winery and bistro located on the outskirts of Cisternino. Here, wine is deeply rooted in the region’s history. This winery harvests its handpicked grapes using traditional methods combined with Mozart’s masterpieces to bond with the wines every day for three hours. Led by the kind, multilingual and hospitable, Pierfranco Semeraro – himself a sommelier and maestro - the winery produces Primitivo and Malvasia reds, white Verdeca and sparkling wine, all of which can be sampled over lunch or dinner. By appointment only.

Via dei Giardini, 36 / 72014 Cisternino / +39 080 247 1829 / For more info visit: www.dfood.it

Via Nino Bixio, 3 72014 Casalini di Cisternino +39 348 2797370 / Info: www.vinisemeraro.com

Corso XX Settembre, 15 - 70010 Locorotondo / +39 389 797 7254 / Facebook page : https://bit.ly/3fMotoL

B a r b a B a f f i e Pe l l i c c e Literally translated to “Beard, Moustaches and Furs” the gourmet bistro bar is the brainchild of Toto and Luciano Petronelli, two ambitious brothers who, inspired by their travels, decided to open a new concept in their native Locorotondo. The result is an innovative enogastronomic experience where mixology cocktails meet gourmet panini and craft beers. Their biodynamic wines are enhanced by gourmet tapas and by a selection of premium cold cuts and cheese. Via Vittorio Veneto, 1 / 70010 Locorotondo (Ba) / +39 328 617 7334 / For more info visit : www.bbep.it

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Yu k i / J a p a n C u i s i n e It is as if you are transported to Asia in moments; an eco-friendly snow house appears in a small square just off Noci’s ring road. Yuki is an ancient cone house structurally common to Puglia and Japan, a space that balances natural elements and sleek interiors. Everything is served in its purest form naturally crunchy, smooth, sweet, salty and savory. For Chef Andrea Fontana and owner Maurizio, the convergence between Puglia and Japan is no contamination at all, but the triumph of authenticity. At the bar, guests can watch as the chefs carefully piece together each dish. There are about 15 tables with a private lounge downstairs offering the traditional Japanese setup, sans shoes. Only one round of reservations is taken for each evening, allowing guests to experience a slow-paced culinary experience. You wouldn’t believe but while the duo are students of Hirohiko Shoda and propose Japan’s innate washoku cuisine, the young owner has never stepped foot on Japanese soil; Maurizio’s personal story led him to discover the power of utterly fresh and raw foods. His gift to us is Yuki. Each seasons follows a different menu, created with the utmost care, as is the choice of wines and sake. Yuki holds JETRO certification, validating the quality of raw materials from Japan and following strict Japanese tradition. The dining maître advises guests on the most authentic combinations and eating methods, allowing you to explore true Japanese cuisine. Bookings obligatory Via Cap. Magg. Recchia, 24 - 70015 Noci (Ba) / +39 080 494 9680 / For more: www.yukiristorante.it

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M.A.M.A. Museum Behind the imposing wooden doors on Vicolo dei Raynò stands a museum well worth visiting. The M.A.M.A. (Museo Arte Moderna Antonia) is a family museum owned and run by descendants of Antonia Fiermonte, Antonia and Giacomo and is an artistic link between the family’s two prestigious hotels, La Fiermontina and Palazzo Bozzi Corso, both just steps away. Inside is a rustic courtyard, beautiful in its simplicity, where exhibits, talks and winetastings are organized as well as private lunches and candlelit dinners arranged on request. The walls inside the two historic restructures are deliberately untouched, allowing each painting and sculpture made by Antonia Fiermonte, Jacques Zwobada, René Letourneur and other fine artists to speak on their own. Vicolo dei Raynò, 4 - 73100 Lecce / info@ lafiermontina.com / +39 0832 302481 / For more info visit: lafiermontina.com/m-a-m-a-food-art

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Jewish Museum During the Middle Ages, Lecce was home to a thriving Jewish community with active leaders such as Abraham de Balmes, a man of high intellect who was also the sovereign’s personal physician. However, outbreaks of intolerance were frequent until the ultimate expulsion of the community in the late 16th century, essentially ending Jewish life in Puglia. Lecce is a city built layer upon layer, spanning thousands of years, leaving the oldest parts of the quarter buried well below ground. What remains of the synagogue can be found adjacent to the Basilica of Santa Croce on the lower level of the medieval Palazzo Taurino: a 15th century synagogue and ‘mikveh’ (ancient ritual baths) and the carved groove where the sacred parchment (mezuzah) was placed – all discovered during renovations for a restaurant. The museum includes the story of the community that once thrived here, with the personal stories of families who lived in Salento after WW2. After the visit, it is easier to imagine the life in the Giudecca marked with bilingual Italian and Hebrew street plates. Books are available in English and Italian at the museum gift shop, as well as Judaica and kosher wines from Puglia. Additional historic Jewish towns of interest: oleto · Acaya · Otranto · Galatina · Santa Cesarea Terme · Tricase Porto · Specchia · Alessano · San Pietro in Lama · Copertino Via Umberto I, 9, 73100 Lecce / info@infotab.it +39 0832 247016 / More on: palazzotaurino.com

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano Lo and behold, this is the oldest public museum in all of Puglia. Founded in 1868 by Sigismondo Castromediano, patriot, archaeologist and literary figure born in Lecce in the nineteenth century, the museum traces the history of Salento from pre-historic to Messapic civilizations, up to the art of the 20th century. Following its 150th anniversary, the museum now features a new wing that showcases the archaeological collection in dialogue with the contemporary works of art. In addition, visitors can witness the open restoration site of the medieval polyptychs of the permanent collection with Art Bonus and the launch of a new Pinacoteca (historical-artistic collections) from 2020. Viale Gallipoli, 28 - 73100 Lecce / For info: museocastromediano.lecce@regione.puglia.it / +39 0832 373572

M u s e o Fa g g i a n o Archaeology lovers will appreciate a visit to this museum that showcases the 2000-year-old archaeological history discovered beneath a private residence in Lecce. The relics include treasures from the Messapi fifth century BC to the Roman Empire and from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance. We would definitely recommend a guided visit with an archaeology expert. Via Ascanio Grandi, 56 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 300528 / Visit: museofaggiano.it / info@museofaggiano.it

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Alle Due Corti A dream that turned into an extraordinary adventure. Alle Due Corti opened in 1998 by a mother and son duo, Rosalba and her son Giorgio. The two sought to share the traditional cuisine of Salento with the world, even to the other side of the pond, attracting the likes of prominent food critics and a partnership with the UNESCO Italian Commission. Visitors curious to learn Salentinian cooking can visit the website for more information.

400 gradi Chef Andrea Godi and Francesco Cassiano have such a passion for pizza they’ve been crowned ‘Best Pizza in Lecce’ and part of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. The duo launched a gourmand pizzeria concept that follows Neapolitan traditions including the 400° degree mark, the ideal heat for “a real pizza” – apparently the temperature is so important they had a pizza oven designed just for them. Specials include Pizza Friscous with anchovies, turnips and mozzarella and ‘friscous’ – an innovative couscous-meetsbread crumb creation, and Coni Fritti with Stracciatella cheese and tomatoes, ideally eaten while you contemplate the main course. Viale Porta d’Europa, 65 / 73100 Lecce +39 391 331 8359 / 400gradilecce@gmail.com Visit Instagram profile: https://bit.ly/2ZdRsM9

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Corte dei Giugni, 1/Via Leonardo Prato, 42 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 242223 / For more info: alleduecorti.com

Tr a t t o r i a L e Z i e A family of women rule this casareccia (home cooking) kitchen, located in the family’s former home. From the unassuming entrance, whose front door is loaded with stickers, guests are accompanied to one of two rooms. The menu is a tribute to Leccese culture and tradition; opt for sharing plates and a first or main. Try the ‘Ciceri e Tria’, a combination of fried and boiled pasta with chickpeas. The white walls let the history of the place shine through, full of old photos (some with celebs) and crochet-covered tables, while behind flexi glass are hundreds of business cards of guests from around the world. Lunch welcomes a host of pre-booked professionals – definitely book for dinner. Via Colonnello Archimede Costadura, 19 - 73100 Lecce / For info and reservations: +39 0832 245178

Le 3Rane Ristoro

Alex Ristorante

Hidden in a small side street near the historic center, this sophisticated eatery is quaint, cozy and just big enough for 10 tables. The brainchild of Chef Maurizio Raselli, the ‘ristoro’ sources goods from the land and sea to create tasting menus with authentic combinations for carnivores and pescetarians alike, plus a selection of vegetarian-friendly dishes. Lunchtime brings local executives in design and business while evenings are an eclectic mix. Try the tiramisu, Il Tiratisu. Booking recommended.

Located steps from Piazza Sant’Oronzo, this urban kitchen is a popular spot for business lunches and casual dinners. Upscale interiors are met with well curated recipes imagined by Chef Alessandra Civilla, a talented chef who merges Apulian tradition with contemporary twists. The menu features a fine selection of fresh seafood and entrees that can be shared; opt for the spaghetti with lemon, fresh Stracciatella cheese and scampi for the main course – ideal with a refreshing glass of white wine.

Via Cavour, 7 - 73100 Lecce / +39 375 504 0165 https://bit.ly/36e2jaC / 3rane.ristoro@gmail.com

Via Vito Fazzi 15/23 - 73100 Lecce / +39 320 803 4258 / More info: alexristorantelecce.it

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One of the must try pastries in Salento is pasticciotto, an egg custard pastry invented by Chef Andrea Ascalone in 1745 in Galatina. When in Lecce, stop by Caffe Alvino for a pasticciotto with amarena (cherries), complete with a cup of coffee or even better, the CaffĂŠ Leccese.

Spiriti Gourmet Spirit Gourmet is an upscale pizzeria whose pizza secret is simple: tradition and taste. Following old Neapolitan techniques, the chefs use a range of pizza dough including durum wheat flour, grains, turmeric paste or Senatore Cappelli flour matched with wonderfully fresh ingredients and aromas. The menu is succinct to guarantee a high rotation of healthy ingredients. In the hotter months, guests can enjoy the hidden indoor garden, great for larger groups. Via Cesare Battisti, 10 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 308438 / spiritigourmet.it / info@spiritigourmet.it

Zefiro For something extraordinary, head to Zefiro, a modern neighborhood eatery and fish bar that serves fresh fish and seafood as well as celiac-friendly delicacies. The place is popular among locals on lunch break; Fridays welcome the aperifish experience from 18:00. Dishes combine the freshest seafood with season fruit and mouthwatering seasonings: the napkin-styled menu (definitely an innovation) will take you on a journey to the depths of the Adriatic and Ionian seas. Via Pietro Vincenti, 10 - 73100 Lecce / +39 339 807 2784 / zefirorestaurant.it / info@zefirorestaurant.it

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OPERA GELATERIA LOUNGE

CAFFE ALVINO

CAFFE PAISIELLO

Via XXV Luglio, 15 73100 Lecce +39 327 813 2338

Piazza Santâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oronzo, 30 73100 Lecce +39 0832 266748

Via Giuseppe Palmieri, 72 73100, Lecce +39 347 303 9617

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Pa l a z z o B N

Prohibition

The newest hospitality concept to land in the baroque city - front and center in the historic heart - Palazzo BN houses a cocktail bar, two restaurants and a rooftop bar for sunset cocktails and city views. The property also features 13 luxurious suites on the top floors as well as southern Italy’s most advanced Technogym fitness center (set to open soon). The menus at each of the spaces are set to include gourmet pizzas, a fish bar with fresh seafood (ideal for raw food lovers) and a chic bistro that pays tribute to Apulian recipes, with sleek presentations - all set in a sleek international style and elegance that combines original historic features and haute design.

Dimmed lights, skilled mixologists, good music, and an impressive cocktail list all under one roof and right in the heart of Lecce. The 1920s inspired cocktail bar has a simple philosophy: “saper bere” which means knowing how to drink. Let the young, energetic team at this unmatched speakeasy walk you through its list of unpublished cocktails and bestsellers, from evergreen cocktails and spicy combinations to unconventional mixes and herbal infusions. We highly recommend San Pietroburgo, a vodka-based cocktail, unique to Prohibition.

Via XXV Luglio, 17 - 73100 Lecce / New Opening

Via Guglielmo Paladini, 19 - 73100 Lecce / +39 389 882 3930 / https://bit.ly/3cKP3wr / https://bit.ly/2Zh3GDQ

Laurus Cocktail Experience Off the normal path, the mixologists at this intimate cocktail lounge in the Baroque heart of Lecce concoct some impressive cocktails to accompany great conversation. Dim lighting and candles provide just the right ambiance with only 10 seats at the bar and a small lounge area. Led by head bartender Antonio Poeh, even the most seasoned traveler is in for a cocktail surprise. VicoloBoemondo,26-73100Lecce/+393922612893 lauruslecce@gmail.com / https://bit.ly/2Xc6waq

Quanto Basta Well after the sun sets in Lecce, locals usually take to the streets for post-dinner cocktails and spirits. This neighborhood bar is one of the top addresses in town, attracting professionals who live and work in the city and the hip students who all mix and mingle together - a bunch of cultured spirits coming together to create the pulse of Lecce. Despite the crowds, warm hospitality and service do not fail, with expertly made cocktails crafted with the utmost care and attention. Via Marco Basseo 29 - 73100 Lecce / +39 347 008 3176 / quantobastalecce@gmail.com/ https://bit.ly/3cIqq3x

300 Mila Lounge Bar Open all day, 300 Mila started with great passion and experience obtained from Europe. Meet Davide, the owner, who has worked across the continent; his bar has been awarded and mentioned in the acclaimed, Gambero Rosso, an Italian food and wine magazine and publishing group, as one of the best bars in Europe. From nibbles to pastries, you have an unlimited choice. Do not miss their Pasticciotto Lecce, a filled Italian pastry with egg custard and their cocktail menu is unmissable. Cin cin! Via Centoquarantesimo Reggimento Fanteria, 11 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 279 990 / www.300mila.com

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Suit Negozi In this spacious, sleek space with high ceilings, exposed walls and minimalist décor, SUIT lets haute fashion speak for itself while never forgetting its roots here in Lecce and Salento – each item fits into the space and region entire. The exquisite taste of owner Gianfranco Bray has worked wonders, attracting the most influential designers and international projects. The concept boutique features the sophisticated collections by Saint Laurent, LOEWE, Jacquemus, Bottega Veneta, Fendi & more.

P r o f u m e r i a D e S a l va t o r e

Via 140th Reggimento Fanteria, 12 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 241015 / For more info visit: suitnegozi. com / mail@suitnegozi.com / Also visit the Instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/suitnegozi/

Profumeria De Salvatore is home to the finest curated collection of modern independent perfume houses. This niche perfume shop first opened its doors in 1942 and it has since remained the destination for fragrance lovers ‘in the know’. Collections include Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, ETRO, Keiko Mecher, Officina Farmaceutica di S. M. Novella di Firenze and many more. A great location for gifts and personalized delivery options. Via Giacomo Matteotti, 20A - 73100 Lecce +30 0832 303485 / profumeriadesalvatore.it

Contre Boutique One of Lecce’s most fashionable shops located in chic Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini, the boutique houses ‘best of the runway’ brands with womens-wear, menswear, footwear and accessories - the resulting seasonal collection is always about metropolitan elegance. Their philosophy is, ‘You take yourself wherever you go - your ideas, thoughts, interests and personal style’. We cannot argue. Piazza Mazzini Giuseppe, 66 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 332421 / contreboutiques.com / https://bit.ly/2WHtmry

White 7

R a h o Ava n t g a r d e

One of our Leccese favorites - we always manage to spot a must-have piece through the window display alone. Its strategic corner location at Piazza Mazzini helps a lot. Their particular collection is dotted with chic pieces, hip shoes, one-off pieces and distinct cuts that really stand out. Even the most seasoned wardrobe will appreciate an upgrade by White 7. Brands include Veja, ETRO, Gritti Fragrances, NOTSHY, Womsh, and a noteworthy handbag and umbrella collection.

When you are looking for something extra special, this is the place. Nestled in the narrow streets of the historic heart, Raho Avantgarde houses an excellent selection of clothing and accessories for men and women. On offer are pieces by Ishikawa, Lequarant, Premiata, Kenzo, Eureka, Casadei, Chiara Ferragni and more. There are several locations across town.

Via Nazario Sauro,66 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 247902 / www.white7boutiques.com / shop@white7.it

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Via Fabio Filzi, 7 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 245564 / For more info visit: rahoavantgarde.it Also visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3d0fKxb / Or email to: ecommerce@rahoavantgarde.it

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Gabriele Greco For social media lovers, Gabriele Greco opens his windows digitally to show you some of his finest clothes. Fall in love with his collection and then head to his boutique in Lecce. He is a storyteller and describes Salento through his creations. With years of shows across Europe and a young and creative spirit, he compares fashion to art. He has also recently been awarded “Premio all’ Eccellenza” in 2019. Feel surprised and seduced by his collection.t Via Imperatore Adriano, 4b - 73100 Lecce / For more info visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3d2Ko99

Fe d e r i c o P r i m i c e r i The young goldsmith inherited his father’s love of handcrafted jewelry, a well-known artisan from the town of Nardò, where Federico himself began to experiment. After traveling to Milan and Vicenza to develop his artistic aptitude, Federico launched his own brand and his jewelry is already gracing the covers of international publications and on haute couture runways. In an edgy boutique in the historic center of Lecce, Federico Primiceri designs and creates his luxury jewelry collections using the highest-grade gemstones, always referring to the importance of traditional techniques instilled by his father, while infusing his distinct, innovative vision. Via Leonardo Prato 20 - 73100 Lecce / +39 0832 179 8263 / For more info visit: federicoprimiceri.it Also visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/2TBauZw / Or email to: info@federicoprimiceri.it

T R I CA S E

Ta ve r n a d e l Po r t o A veritable Apulian tavern on the coast of Salento, the culinary experience at this seafront location starts with crisp, homemade bread and continues with fresh seafood antipasti bursting with color, and capably prepared ﬁrst and second courses that retain the ﬂavors of the Adriatic. Pizzas are also a promising route, with special toppings that are frankly hard to turn down. Via Cristoforo Colombo 121 - 73029 Tricase Porto / +39 0833 775 336 / www.tavernadelporto.com For info email to: info@tavernadelporto.com / Or visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3c1kC47

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M AGLIE

M e z z a Pa g n o t t a Considered a hidden gem in Ruvo di Puglia, Mezza Pagnotta features a fixed menu with ethnobotanical cuisine and local recipes that cater to vegetarians who will love the variety and creativity - an explosion of flavor and innovation. May we dare say this is the mecca for Apulian cuisine. Indulge in delicious salads, tasty sandwiches and even baked rucola on a crunchy durum wheat doughnut with burrata on top - spectacular. Carnivores are not left behind; try the capocollo with figs and grana cheese. Via Rosario 9/11/13 - Ruvo di Puglia 70037 / +39 347 999 6475 / mezzapagnotta13@gmail.com / https://bit.ly/36xaG0T

Cubi Yet another sign that Puglia is the place to be. A street cocktail bar that is drawing in urban dwellers and local townspeople for its stylish interior, hip atmosphere, and innovative mixology. The bar is led by a young and quirky team always ready to prepare the most creative drinks in the most unconventional of locations in southern Puglia. During the warm months, you can take a seat outside and enjoy a Negroni in an avantgarde candlelit atmosphere. The right place for curious travelers who love venturing off the beaten track to discover something new. Via S. Giuseppe, 12 - 73024 Maglie / Visit the Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/CubiMaglie/ Email to: cubimaglie@gmail.com / Visit the Instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/cubimaglie/

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OTRANTO CASARANO - RUFFANO Ultima Spiaggia delle Cesine S a n L o r e n z o A s t r o n o m i c a l Pa r k One of the biggest astronomical parks in Puglia, San Lorenzo Astronomical Park is well worth visiting especially for families with children. It opened in 2013 and since then it has been attracting thousands of followers, due to its ever-changing attractions and night shows. Experience the digital 3D Planetarium, the astronomical museum and observatory, and the outdoor spaces with nothing but an expanse land with olive trees and Mediterranean woodlands, great for active kids. For the observatory and private groups, booking recommended. Contrada Manfio/Mascarane s - Casarano - Ruffano (km 3) / +39 328835 6836 / astronomiacasarano.it/planetario.htm

We love a well-kept secret. Located at the edge of the Cesine World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Nature Reserve, this hidden beach club is accessible via a wooden walkway set above the dunes, with an abundance of wild Mediterranean vegetation and wildlife. Crystal blue waters splash on the sandy volcanic shore where sun loungers and umbrellas are set at a comfortable distance from one another. Showers, changing rooms and Wi-Fi are available. The laid-back atmosphere of ‘Ristobar’ is a pleasure; open all day with lunch and dinner menus, the latter ideal for barefoot style dinners minus the glamour. Reservations required. S.P. 366 Litoranea San Cataldo-Otranto - 73029 Vernole / +39 346 015 7029 / ultimaspiaggiadellecesine.it For info email to: info@ultimaspiaggiadellecesine.it / Visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3d2QoPd

Retrogusto

GAGLIANO DEL CAPO C i p o l l i a n e C a ve s Sentiero delle Cipolliane is a beautiful two-kilometer-long trekking path in Salento that passes villas on rugged cliffs, historic relics of ancient farms and natural Mediterranean landscapes, and ends with stunning sea views from a complex of Ice Age caves situated thirty meters above sea level. The cave walls and ﬂoors are full of fossils, so visitors are asked to tread carefully. The path starts from the Ciolo Fjord and ends at Torre Porto Marina di Novaglie with helpful signage, and is easily walkable for adults and children. The best times are early morning or late afternoon as the trek lasts approximately two hours. SP 358, 73034 - Gagliano del Capo / Visit also: https://www.viaggiareinpuglia.it/attivita/en/328

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Recently awarded its first Michelin star, Retrogusto focuses on the flavors of Salento and while there is no sea view in sight, you will definitely experience it on the plate with delicacies from the Adriatic and recipes from the countryside. Interiors are simple and informal, allowing you to relax and enjoy the culinary journey. You can judge a restaurant by its bread don’t miss the homemade baguette with chicory. The way they handle the fish and pasta to create their dishes is artful and delightfully tasty. Via Tenente Eula, 7 - 73028 Otranto +39 320 777 6406 / More on: ristoranteretrogusto.com For info email to: fabrizioporrini@gmail.com

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Atlantis-Belami First off, the location, a seafront with its own private sandy beach club. A good start that continues and unfolds with its sublime kitchen (Michelin-starred, by the way). Atlantis-Bel Ami is for those who love the sea and every aspect of it, the sand, the rustic elegance, seafood, crisp wine and fresh air. At lunch or during the golden hour you can enjoy wonderful fish dishes and seafood specials with a bottle of Apulian whites and fresh rosé that challenges any other across the globe. Via Porto Craulo - 73028 Otranto / +39 0836 804401 +39 338 224 6833 / More on: www.atlantisbeach.it For more info email to: atlantisbeach@libero.it / Visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/2WZD8Wd

GALATINA

Chiesa di Santa Caterina

MELENDUGNO Quintero Salento Watch the waves crash on the shore from day to night… Quintero Salento affords a heavenly location on the shore facing the turquoise waters and for its great cuisine to be enjoyed under the shaded gazebo. The seafood antipasti, Linguine all’Astice, grilled fish and fresh summer desserts should all be on your list. Add a bottle of rosé and experience Quintero paradise. As the day winds down, this is a great spot to join the sophisticated crowd for sunset drinks. Torre Specchia Ruggeri, 67 (SP366) - 73029 Melendugno / +39 324 773 7797 / More on: quinterosalento.it / Email to: info@quinterosalento. it/ Visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/2TzLTnR

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This stunning cathedral in Galatina (dubbed ‘Assisi of the South’) was built between 1369 and 1391 by Raimondello Orsini del Balzo, and is one of the most important sites in Puglia, housing beautiful frescoes and mixed architectural styles from the Romans, Gothics, Byzantine and Normans. Local tradition recalls the story of his journey to pay tribute to Saint Catherine on Mount Sinai where the martyr’s body rests; legend has it that when he kissed her hand, he bit off one of the saint’s fingers and brought it back with him to Italy, transforming it into one of the key relics in the church today. Legends aside, the artwork inside is overwhelming in its detail, beauty and storytelling, commissioned to the best Neapolitan artists of the time, by order of Princess Maria d’Enghien. Definitely worth a guided tour, the frescoes feature scenes from the Apocalypse, Genesis, as well as the seven sacraments of the Catholic church. Via Raimondello Orsini, 6 - 73013 Galatina / +39 0836 568494 / https://www.basilicaorsiniana.it/ Email to: parrocchiasantacaterina36@gmail.com

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O r i g i n e d e l l a Ta r a n t a One of the best ways to immerse yourself in local culture and tradition is to take part in the folk dance, La Taranta that originated here and spread through the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. This upbeat dance features a dancer and drummer attempting to overtake one another by playing faster or dancing more intensely. La Taranta was initially used as a healing ritual to ward off the painful bite of the tarantula, a poisonous spider that appears during the summer. The incessant tambourines combine to form a hypnotic and cheerful dance. It is a popular folk genre in Puglia and takes place in various towns across Salento taking on different names as you move from one region to another. Discover the Taranta tradition / Check the website for event dates across the region: lanottedellataranta.it

G ROT TAG LI E

Monun The stars are definitely shining here in Puglia; here in Grottaglie travellers will find Monun, a Michelin starred restaurant led by young Apulian chef Alessandro Guarino. After acquiring skills and experience across respected European establishments, he returned to where his heart is, to demonstrate exceptional cooking skills and a knack for creativity research and meticulous attention to detail. The Michelin-starred kitchen is housed on the premises of a hotel & spa, idyllic for wellbeing weekends away. From rabbit roulade to pumpkin risotto, Chef Guarino and his team showcase Apulian gastronomy with international influences, promising a multisensorial experience to remember. Via Caraglio 6 - Grottaglie / +39 099 4505655 / www.monun.it / info@monun.it / https://bit.ly/3bVzMrq

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The Cardinal Aperitif & Bar Located in the historic town of Nardò, this stylish cocktail bar is the optimal stop for drinks and mingling with locals, while exploring the region of Salento. Industrial lighting and rustic furniture contrast with frescoed ceilings and arches, a highly aesthetic balance between past and present. The particular choice of wine on the menu highlights the owner’s expertise and personal style, with a curated selection of celebrated vineyards from the region. Tasty gourmet tapas inspired by local traditions make ﬁne accompaniments to refreshing cocktails and crisp wines, all in an informal atmosphere and ambient music. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 7 - 73048 Nardò / +39 329 930 5575 / Visit Instagram page: https://bit.ly/3d1bMVd

Museum of Memory and Hospitality Nardò is indisputably one of the most beautiful towns in Salento. While the quest for the coastline under the Mediterranean sun is surely hard to resist, a visit to this historic town will prove to be a highlight in Puglia. The city is famous for both its rich architectural and landscape heritage with monuments that span the Romanesque-Gothic era to the Renaissance and Baroque. Within the town walls are forty splendid villas of great historical signiﬁcance, all built between the 18th and 19th centuries. In addition, along with the town of Santa Maria al Bagno, the town of Nardò is famous for having received a large Jewish community sent by the allies from 1943 to 1945. The city’s Museum of Memory and Hospitality contains historic records of international importance with moving stories and photographic memories of the rebirth, integration and solidarity of humankind in the post-war era. In 2005, the initiative won the city of Nardò a gold medal for civil merit by the former President of the Republic, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi. Here in Nardò, visitors can explore several itineraries including those organized with architects, agronomists, and landscape architects who will open the doors of the most eclectic villas and gardens in all of Puglia. Promenade Alfonso Lamarmora / S. Maria al Bagno, Nardò / +39 0833 572 657 / museomemoriaeaccoglienza.it

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TARANTO Jonian Dolphin Association On Puglia’s Ionian coast, you will not only find Maldivian-like waters and sandy shores but whales and dolphins that have been living in these waters for more than 4,000 years. The Jonian Dolphin Conservation’s goal is to protect these friendly sea mammals allowing them to swim freely and continue to research their habitat. The JDC Association organizes half-day trips on board brand-new boats offering a closer look at these highly intelligent mammals, inviting guests to take photos and experiment with recording sounds and whistle calling to document movement - a great excursion idea for conservation activists, adults and children. The crew also offer a taste of Apulian specialties while on board. +39 349 133 8221 / +39 0994706269 / areaprogetti@joniandolphin.it / www.joniandolphin.it/wordpress/2017/

Ristorante l’Acchiatura Legend has it that hidden in the walls of this building is a golden hen with its chicks, always protected by the fairy, Laurieddhu, a well-known character in popular tradition. The name, L’acchiatura originates from the legends of Salento and refers to a precious box of treasure and it certainly is, located on a tiny narrow street. From this point of view, with a deep-rooted history and tradition, this restaurant excels in Apulian cuisine, where the chef takes a typical dish and transforms it into a highly elaborate experience with Mediterranean contemporaneity, and the right wine for each dish. A short drive outside Gallipoli but well worth the trip. Via Marzani, 12 - 73055 Racale / +39 392 3411594 / acchiatura.it / info@acchiatura.it / https://bit.ly/2AZMed0

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G A L L I P O LI L a Vi n a i g r e t t e When asked where to have seafood in Gallipoli, this is probably the place. Under arched ceilings, exposed walls and marine-chic rustic furnishings, the restaurant’s expertise in raw seafood is justified with a rich selection, freshness and definitive gusto. Some of their signature dishes feature lobster, fish carpaccio, tartare and grilled whole fish, each prepared with a delicate use of herbs and homemade dressing. A refined wine list is available, too. Locals pre-book the tables, so make sure to do the same.

Nugae Gallery Hidden inside the 16th century Palazzo Balsamo, one of Gallipoli’s most historic and renowned palaces in the old town that once belonged to a family of barons, Nugae Gallery represents artisan jewelers from Italy and around the world. Owners Giulia and Vittoria put a lot of love and care into the boutique and their eye for design is evident in the impressive collection of unique one-off pieces, each with its own story and style. Designers include Laura Volpi, Francesca Mazzotta, Arior, and Alessandra Pasini x Pasa Gioielli. Via Antonietta de Pace 56 - Gallipoli / +39 0833 263285 / nugae.gallery / info@nugae.gallery / https://bit.ly/2AS4xAC

Via XXIV Maggio, 37 - 73014 Gallipoli / +39 0833 264 501 / For more visit: www.lavinaigrette.it Email to: info@lavinaigrette.it / Also visit the Instagram page https://www.instagram.com/la_vinaigrette

Matre The combination of good-looking interiors and an engaging food experience make this bistro and restaurant an address to keep. Aperitivo at the bistro offers a selection of cooked or raw antipasti paired with a variety of wine tastings, with an à la carte lunch and dinner menu for a more tailored experience. More formal settings are available in the restaurant and garden, where traditional recipes from the region are prepared using zero-kilometer, seasonal ingredients combined with the chef ’s ﬂair for creative experimentation. You won’t have the same dish twice. Via Antonietta de Pace, 116 - 73014 Gallipoli / +39 0833 264 430 / matre.it / Email to: info@matre.it

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M AT E R A Matera has gained international fame for its narrow streets and fascinating old town, culminating in a fairytale nativity scene. It is the third oldest city in the world after Aleppo (Syria) and Jericho, with traces of settlement from the Stone Age. Its original name remains a mystery, although several theories trace its origin to the ancient Greek ‘Matheola’ to ‘Meteron’ (starry vault) and the Ionian word ‘Mather’ meaning ‘Earth Mother’. Matera’s history of enduring strength and vulnerability is emerging into the light and evolving into a contemporary space for new ideas.

Pa r c o d e l l a M u r g i a

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A fascinating place to explore is the valley in between the Sassi environs. Beyond the two-karst valleys where the settlement developed over the centuries, is a rocky landscape domain. An ideal starting point for an early morning or late afternoon hike along the Gravina di Matera, covering 30 kilometers of canyon, resulting from rock erosion over centuries, next to its homonymous stream. Traces of human presence from the Neolithic age mingle with natural wildlife shelters. After covering this terrain, visitors approach the regional park of Murgia Materana (Park of the Rupestrian Churches of Matera), a pristine natural landscape with canyons, streams, caves and important habitats, also dotted with the beautiful archaeological remains of medieval churches and 8th century frescoes carved into the rock. Travel designers are available to create a custom tour and open-air dinners can be arranged, too.

Matera’s “Architecture of Shame” is among the top trails promoted by the European Capital of Culture committee; although it bears a murky past, it is a marvelous and mystical ancient city - above and underground. From the Duomo built in 230 AD to the Benedictine grottoes in the 7th century and the Byzantine churches, to know Matera is to walk down the excavated wombs and venture above land to explore its many architectural wonders, an expression of mankind’s relentless desire to create, conceive and remain eternal.

75100 Matera - Province of Matera / For tour and more info visit the website: parcomurgia.it

75100 Matera - Province of Matera / For tour and more info visit the website: architectureofshame.org

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Baccanti Ristorante

Dimora Ulmo Situated on the first floor of an elegant and beautifully restored historic palazzo, Dimora Ulmo offers picturesque views of the sassi and ancient city - just the scene for a seasoned traveler looking for an intercultural experience. The gourmet kitchen features several dining areas (including an outdoor patio) with grand windows, enviable artworks, natural lighting and frescoed ceilings, while the round tables and modern seats keep the ambiance light and easy-going. Chef Michele Castelli, alongside his sous chef and Bottura-trained Virginia Caravita, capture Materan recipes with utter refinement and a fearlessness in experimenting with contrasting textures, flavors, and colors. The tasting menu includes a sevencourse experience while the Traditional Menu comprises five dishes, paired with exceptional wines. Booking recommended. Via Pennino, 28 - 75100 Matera / +39 0835 165 0398 / Visit: dimoraulmo.it / info@dimoraulmo.it

Built into a complex of authentic old caves, Baccanti proposes modern cuisine, opting for creativity and style to lead the dining experience. Noteworthy is the restaurant’s wine line and outdoor patio with pictureperfect views, ideal for al fresco dinners during the summer. It’ll be a challenge taking in all the beauty, history and intrigue around you but do focus on the dishes, of which we’d recommend sampling the Codfish with crusco on pancotto cream with burnt onions and caciocavallo cheese mousse, Tagliolino with Lucania lamb and white ragout, Veal cheek with potato purée, and the Aglianico apple compote. Booking recommended. Via Sant’Angelo, 58/61 - 75100 Matera / +39 0835 333 704 / +39 320 566 3533 / More on: baccantiristorante.com / info@baccantiristorante.it

Ego An ambitious young chef with more than 10 years experience in the industry Nicola Popolizio has created one of the finest eateries in the center of Matera. Opened in 2016, E.G.O. (Enoteca, Gourmet, Origini) is a culmination of three pillars of his gastronomic philosophy: fine wine, refined preparations and infinite love for the seasonal products of his Lucanian motherland. There are two routes to experience the ‘ego’; à la carte or via four tasting menus that feature signature dishes, regional twists, vegetarian/vegan friendly options and the ‘Free Hands’ 6 or 8-course experience - all accompanied by rich, homemade bread. Via Stigliani, 44 - 75100 Matera / +39 392 903 0963 egogourmet.it / Email to: info@egogourmet.it Visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/2WZWsCJ

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Vi t a n t o n i o L o m b a r d o Housed in the dramatic setting of a millennia-old cave in the heart of the Rione Sassi, with a brilliant selection of minimalist décor and lighting installations, Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante is the brainchild of the 30-something eponymous chef, already with 20 years’ experience at the most prestigious gastronomical courts in Italy and abroad. Having returned to his native region, out of the cave emerges a tasting menu according to the season and Chef Lombardo’s wild imagination. The ‘menu degustazione’ features his famous ‘Pizza in Black’ and ‘Miseria e Nobiltà’ among several additional masterpieces, accompanied by ‘Ricordi d’infanzia’ – all classic signatures for a reason. Via Madonna delle Virtù, 13/14 - 75100 Matera / +39 0835 335475 / More on: vlristorante.it For more info email to: info@vlristorante.it / Also visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/2ZwjzGJ

E n o t e c a d a i To s i Regia Corte Regia Corte would be a destination for its setting alone: its views over Matera’s old town are spectacular. Young Apulian chef Pompeo Lorusso, previously awarded for his culinary skills, knows how to combine traditional meals with organic ingredients, making tasting menus the route to go and booking is absolutely mandatory. If you’d like to stop for a crisp bottle of white and enjoy the scenery, we’d suggest booking a table on the patio in the later afternoon and watch as the scene turns from magic to magical. Piazza San Pietro Caveoso - 75100 Matera +39 0835 312914 / www.regiacortematera.it info@regiacortematera.it / https://bit.ly/2LTswlr

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This award-winning winery is built inside a sasso in Matera, carved out of the rock to relive the history and authenticity of the city, while revealing a chic and modern minimalist winery and shop on three levels with a single circular staircase that leads the experience. Brought to you by three Venetian ‘Tosi’ (local dialect for ‘guys’), the wine cellar carries more than 250 exclusively Italian references of wine covering more than 20,000 kilometers of vineyards, with tastings and cicchetti (Venetian tapas) made according to local recipes from Basilicata. Probably the coolest wine bar in Matera. Via Bruno Buozzi, 12 - 75100 Matera / +39 0835 314029 For more info visit the website: enotecadaitosi. it / Email to: tobevi@enotecadaitosi.it / Also visit the Instagram page: https://bit.ly/2Ac5ZNR

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BOUTIQUE HOTELS R E S O RT S PRIVATE VILLAS & MASSERIAS NEW OPENINGS

From converted ancient caves to sleek spaces; from gourmet chic to uncompromising traditional cuisine; from sprawling countryside views to seafront vistas, VIA shares a handpicked selection of exceptional properties across the region, each of which promise to welcome you home with open arms and extend signature southern Italian hospitality with contemporary comforts, thoughtful amenities, and helpful services. Travel with VIA.

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BOU T I Q U E H OTELS

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M a s s e r i a S a n G i ova n n i

Pa l a z z o D a n i e l e

72015 Fasano (BR) Visit: masseriasangiovanni.it

Corso Umberto I, 60 - 73034 Gagliano del Capo (LE) Visit: palazzodaniele.com

Pa l a z z o B o z z i C o r s o

Castello di Ugento

Via Umberto I, 38 - 73100 Lecce Visit: palazzobozzicorso.com

Via Castello, 13 - 73059 Ugento (LE) Visit: castellodiugento.com

Pa l a z z o d e l D u c a

Convento S. Maria di Costantinopoli

Via Muro, 50, 75100 Matera Visit: palazzodelducamatera.it

Via Convento, 73030 Marittima (LE) Visit: ilconventopuglia.com

Pa l a z z o P r e s t a

H o t e l L a Pe s c h i e r a

Via Garibaldi 29, ang, Via G. Presta 73014 Gallipoli (LE) Visit: palazzopresta.it

Contrada Losciale, 63 Frazione - 70043 Capitolo (BA) Visit: peschierahotel.com

Palazzo Santâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Anna Lecce

Palazzo Margherita

Vico del Pittaccio, 4 - 73100 Lecce Visit: palazzosantannalecce.com

Corso Umberto I, 64 - 75012 Bernalda (Basilicata) Visit: thefamilycoppolahideaways.com/en/palazzo-margherita

(Coppola Hideaways)

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BOUT IQUE HOT EL S Masseria Prosperi

Borgo Canonica

SP 366 km 23 - 73028 Otranto (LE) Visit: masseriaprosperi.it

Contrada Minetta, 20 - Cisternino (BR) Visit: borgocanonica.com

Dimora Pirrelli

Il Melograno

Via Capitano Pirrelli, 45 - 70043 Monopoli (BA) Info: dimorapirrelli.com

Contrada Torricella, 345 - 70043 Monopoli (BA) Visit: melograno.com

Pa l a z z o d e i D o n d o l i

Grand Hotel Costa Brada

Via Alfonso Sozy Carafa, 20/A - 73100 Lecce Visit: palazzodeidondoli.it

Litoranea Sud km 3 - 73014 Gallipoli (LE) Visit: grandhotelcostabrada.it

Masseria Cimino

Pa l a z z o D u c a l e Ve n t u r i

Contrada Masciola - 72015 Fasano (BR) Visit: masseriacimino.it

Via Podgora, 60 - 73027 Minervino di Lecce Visit: palazzoducaleventuri.com

Palazzo De Noha

(Lifestyle Design Hotel)

Via Guglielmo Paladini, 47 - 73100 Lecce Visit: palazzodenoha.it

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RE S O RTS Masseria San Domenico SP90 - 72015 Savelletri (BR) Visit: masseriasandomenico.com

La Fiermontina Piazzetta De Summa Scipione, 4 - 73100 Lecce Visit: lafiermontina.com

M a s s e r i a To r r e M a i z z a Contrada Coccaro - 72015 Savelletri (BR) Visit: roccofortehotels.com

Masseria Torre Abate Risi Contrada Cerasina, 7 - 72015 Fasano (BR) Visit: masseriatorreabaterisi.com

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HistĂ˛ Relais

Aquatio Cave Luxury Resort & Spa

Via Santandrea Circummarpiccolo - 74123 Taranto / Visit: relaishisto.it

Via Conche, 12 - 75100 Matera Visit: aquatiohotel.com

Posia Luxury Retreat Spa

Naturalis Bio Resort & Spa

Via Lungomare Matteotti, 157 - 73026 San Foca Visit: posia.it

73025 Martano, Province of Lecce Visit: naturalisbioresort.com

Vi vo s a R e s o r t

Quarry Resort Luxury Hotel

Loc. Fontanelle - 73059 Ugento (LE) Visit: vivosaresort.com

Via S. Giacomo, 39 - 75100 Matera Visit: quarryresort.it

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PRIVAT E VIL L A S A ND MA SSERIA S

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Masseria Lamacoppa

Pe t t o l e c c h i a : L a R e s i d e n z a

Contrada Lamacoppa, - 72017 Ostuni (BR) Visit: lamacoppa.com

Strada Comunale Pignatta Pettolecchia, - 72015 Fasano (BR) Visit: pettolecchialaresidenza.it

Pettolecchia: La Piccola

T h e Vi l l a s a t B o r g o E g n a z i a

Strada Comunale Pignatta Pettolecchia, snc 72015 Fasano (BR)/ Visit: pettolecchialapiccola.it

Strada Comunale Egnazia, - 72015 Savelletri (BR) Visit: borgoegnazia.com/rooms/le-ville/

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NE W O P E N ING S

C a s a O l i ve t t a

La Suite Matera Hotel & Spa

Contrada Cinera - 72017 Ostuni (BR) Visit: casaolivetta.com

Via Lucana, 137, 75100 - Matera Visit: lasuitematera.com

Paragon 700â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Masseria Calderisi

Largo Michele Ayroldi Carissimo, 14 - 72017 Ostuni (BR) / Visit: paragon700.com

Strada Comunale Sarzano, 12/A - 72015 Fasano (BR) Visit: masseriacalderisi.com

Masseria Lo Schiavetto

Palazzo BN Contemporary Suites

Contrada Matinelle, 4 - 70010 Turi (BA) Visit: masserialoschiavetto.it

Via XXV Luglio 73100 - Lecce website coming soon

Contact us info@via-magazine.com via email for special rates, extra perks and preferred access to exceptional travel services that have been specially selected by us to help upgrade your journey. For more recommended hotels, villas and resorts visit: via-magazine.com/category/hospitality 196

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PUBLISHER

VIA Magazine

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eleonora Betesh

CREATIVE DIRECTOR coming soon

essentiapuglia.com

gianpaologuerra.com

interiorlecce.it

Jesy Moliterno

CONTRIBUTORS

Judy Cogan, Vito Gravinese, Ellen Grace Jones, Mandi Keighran, John Klein, Christian Koch

SPECIAL THANKS

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masserialamacoppa.com

naturalisbioresort.com

palazzodaniele.com

We would like to each one of VIA Magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sponsors and partners for their support, dedication and shared business vision as we serve the best the land of Puglia has to offer travelers and to the world. Thank you to all our family and friends who believe in this important project.

PHOTO CREDITS: Raffaella Quaranta, Sebastian

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cocobook.it

uniquemedia.it

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A handpainted ceramic dish made by Franco Fasano of Fasano Ceramiche. Unique one-off pieces are sold at the artisanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s studio in Apulian ceramic-capital, Grottaglie, and at select locations worldwide. For the full story, go to page 46.

VIA is an annual magazine, conceived and fully produced in Puglia. The first pilot issue launched in the spring of 2019. VIA Magazine aims to be the go-to resource for discerning, international luxury travelers on holiday in Puglia, offering reliable information and suggestions for exploring the region, and a source of inspiration for aspiring visitors. The magazine showcases Apulian champions in arts, culture, design, architecture, gastronomy, wellbeing, hospitality, fashion, entrepreneurship, and a travel guide that highlights a handpicked selection of the best locations pettolecchiaillido.it in Puglia. Copyright@2020. All rights reserved. All information provided was correct during the time of publication. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written consent from the publisher and editor-in-chief. Articles reflect the opinions of the authors, and do not necessarily represent the opinion of the publisher. Unless provided by content partners, VIA Magazine has paid for and/or sourced photography on-request for the travel and lifestyle editorials. Please send your feedback and comments to editorial@via-magazine.com

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Puglia in the autumn

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