12 minute read
WHAT IF WE OVERLOOK THE REAL PROBLEM?
By: Emilie Thomsen A lot of focus has been on environmental sustainability in the past years. However, what if the game-changers, and making a difference, are not in the category of environmental sustainability? What if we need to focus on the research and development of social and economic sustainability? Much focus has been on making materials less damaging to the environment, and on making existing materials better, but if they are so damaging, then why not look into the possibilities of making new ones. With scientific work and new technology, many different and alternative textiles emerged. With these new materials, it is not only possible to reduce the emissions of chemicals, co2, and other things, but it is also possible to rethink the way of producing and consuming.
WHAT IS SUSTAINABILITY?
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To understand the problems within sustainability, it is crucial to understand what sustainability is and what it entails, and precisely, this is what many do not do. Sustainability is broad and affects many people. The UN’s and The World Commission on Environment and Development’s definition of sustainability is one of the most acknowledged ones. They say that “Sustainable development seeks to meet the needs and aspirations of the present without compromising the ability to meet those of the future”1. Environmental sustainability involves using renewable resources, minimizing emissions and pollution, and not using resources depleting materials. Furthermore, things as reutilisation and recycling are a part of environmental sustainability2 .
Sustainable development seeks to meet the needs and aspirations of the present without compromising the ability to meet those of the future - UN
ences the earth’s being (environment sustainability) and the workers behind the labor (social sustainability). This article will address how materials in the fashion and clothing industry have impacted the environment and the significance of research and development in the field. I believe that everyone has the right to textiles made of materials that do not harm us and nature, as we have a shared responsibility for nature. Sustainability is also “To contribute to the existence and development of human beings and nature in intruding harmony”3. We must consider all three forms to achieve this.
ARE WE JUST TRYING TO MAKE DAMAGING TEXTILES LESS DAMAGING?
Gradually, most people are aware of the environmental impact of textiles like cotton. The production of cotton has a high usage of herbicides, pesticides, and water. It is terrible for the environment, the labor workers, and the consumers because some chemicals are still traceable in the clothes after production4. Processing 1 kg cotton requires 7,000-29,000 litres of water, similar to using a pair of jeans. Moreover, 16% of the world’s use of insecticides and 7% of the use of pesticides come from cotton production5. Therefore, an alternative has been created: organic cotton. Many people think that it is entirely free of harmful substances and good for the environment when it is organic. However, for organic cotton growing, both natural and synthetic pesticides are still used. Although it is in more moderate quantities, this does not mean that it is necessarily good for the environment. Much water is still used, although it is 88% less than non-organic cotton 6. Organic cotton has its advantages compared to conventional cotton. Some believe that natural pesticides are better, but natural pesticides can still be harmful. An example is Rotetone, a harmful pesticide used in cotton cultivationl7. Although it has
similar symptoms as Parkinson’s disease, it is not on the FDA’s list of hazardous substances. Further, The Natural Science and Engineering Council of Canada made a study of four synthetic and two organic insecticides; it shows that the two organic insecticides have a higher toxicity level than the synthetic ones8 .
When the bamboo is processed, Carbon disulfide, Sodium hydroxide, Sulfuric acid is used, which is both harmful to the environment and human as it is corrosive, and many of the chemicals end up in nature
When processing cotton, 7,000-29,000 liters of water is required for 1 kg of cotton, which is similar to the use of a pair of jeans
ECO - Cotton plant
Photo by: Bjørn Utoft Sørensen, Edited by: Emilie Thomsen
MAYBE EVERYTHING IS NOT AS GREEN AS IT SEEMS
By now, it has become normal with other natural and sustainable materials such as bamboo and soy fibers. As there has been a growing need for sustainable fibers, such fibers as bamboo have emerged9 . Making bamboo fiber is similar to making viscose; the materials are divided into smaller pieces and dissolved to then be compressed and spun. But during this process, it is very different what companies dissolve the bamboo in, and this does not appear in the clothing label. The chemicals used in unsustainable bamboo fibers are often corrosive as it saves time. When the bamboo is processed, Carbon disulfide, Sodium hydroxide, Sulfuric acid is used, which is harmful to the environment and humans as it is corrosive, and many of the chemicals end up in nature10. Therefore, in itself, clothing made of bamboo is not necessarily sustainable, but as with cotton, many believe it is sustainable. Bamboo also uses about as much water as organic cotton but more energy. Also, fibers such as soy fibers have emerged. Soy fiber is a regenerated fiber, which means that the fiber is made from other materials, either cellulose or proteins. The production of the fiber starts with extracting the protein from the woodchips/soybean by boiling it with a solution of, e.g. sodium hydroxide. The process uses high heat, alkalis, and enzymes11 . Soy fiber undergoes this chemical manipulation to be transformed from plant to fabric. The process also uses formaldehyde, which is carcinogenic and harmful to humans and animals. That is why many companies point out that they recycle the chemicals and only use them in a closed system, but many people forget that this still affects the labor workers, since regenerated fibers are human-made and many of the chemicals end up affecting the consumer12. As with the other fibers, there are also benefits such as it can be made from by-products of food production, and it is a renewable resource. Still, again, it also uses a lot of water and pesticides in production. Here too, sustainability depends on what you look at and how the fiber is produced.
As shown, there are several options for choosing between so-called sustainable materials. We have seen that there has been a focus on materials needed to be more sustainable. But the question is; are we just developing and enhancing textiles that have proven to be environmentally and socially damaging? And are we just settling for existing materials? Materials such as bamboo, organic cotton, and soy fiber are sure enough sustainable at some points, and it is some action. But the question then is, are these the most effective ways of acting sustainably?
Are we just developing and enhancing textiles that have proven to be environmentally and socially damaging?
NEW EXCITING FABRICS CAN REPLACE THE CONVENTIONAL ONES
If it is the case that there has been too much focus on making harmful fabrics less harmful, is it enough, or are there other more effective solutions? Materials play a significant role in contributing to sustainability. They are the starting point for change and
have an impact on both economic, social, and environmental sustainability13. If the focus on making our existing materials less harmful, has not been compelling enough, the focus of the future must be something else. I think many have overlooked the importance of focusing on manufacturing and researching new materials. What we have done so far has not worked, therefore something different must be done. Again, this raises questions: How can we make new materials? Are people ready to accept new materials?
If the focus so far, on making our existing materials less harmful, not has been compelling enough, the focus of the future must be something else
IT IS GOOD FOR YOUR BONES, AND IT IS GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT
One way of making new materials is by using milk. The contemporary sustainable problem in our society has caused people to start thinking about alternative ways to create materials. Originally milk fiber was invented in Italy in 1930 by Antonio Ferrati. Milk fiber is made of the protein casein found in milk. From 35 liters of milk, it is possible to make 1 kg of fiber. Like soy, it has, for many years, not been possible to create the fiber without using different chemical substances. Today most milk is still mixed with acryl, which results in the fabric not being completely natural14. However, German designer and biologist, Anke Domaske is thought to have found a solution to make it 100% natural. Domaske and her team have found a way to create the fabric without implementing chemicals in the production process, and therefore creating a new natural textile. Milk fiber is a more sustainable option than synthetic fibers and has the same attributes as natural and synthetic fibers. Compared to cotton that uses a minimum of 7,000 liters, it only uses 2 liters of water making it very sustainable. It only used 2 liters of water and compared to cotton that uses a minimum of 7000 liters, it is very sustainable15. This means that it is possible to produce 3,500 kilograms of milk fabric with the same water usage as one 1 kgs of cotton. Furthermore, it reduces the usage of chemicals that can damage the labor workers and the planet. Also, it has a pH value of 6,8, which is the same as the human skin. Therefore, it does not cause skin irritation for the consumer or the labor worker16 .
From 35 liters of milk, it is possible to make 1 kg of fiber. The milk fiber only used 2 liters of water and com-
pared to cotton that uses a minimum of 7000 liters
Anke Domaske only uses sour milk that is leftover from production17. Sour milk is often used in sour milk products like yogurt, buttermilk, etc. By beginning to think about alternative materials to make fabrics out of, it will be possible to use all or at least reduce the raw material waste, instead of throwing the remains that occur in the production process away. The most sustainable materials we have on earth are the things that are produced because Co2 has been used. Therefore, we must use all the usable leftover materials in production, so there is as little waste as possible. This also means that the consumer needs to be open to new ideas and try new things out like milk fabric and not just discard the idea because it is not what they are used to wear. By doing this, it will be possible to create a market for alternative textiles and make it possible for more prominent brands to experiment with new textile ideas. Some brands are already experimenting with bacteria for textile making.
The most sustainable materials we have on earth are the things that are produced because the Co2 has been used
COULD THE SOLUTION BE TO USE RESIDUAL MATERIALS FOR NEW MATERIALS?
Piñatex Original - Natural
Photo by: Emilie Thomsen
Another way of producing sustainable materials is without using additional land, water, pesticides, or
fertilizers. This is possible with Piñatex. Piñatex is made out of waste products from pineapple trees18 . It reduces the raw material waste, as the pineapple trees already are produced. It is estimated that there are 40,000 tons of leaves leftovers each year, and most of them are burned. It is one of the few non-woven textiles made of natural materials. It imitates leather attributes but is better than leatherette because it is biodegradable and not made from fossil fuels. It is a lot better for the environment and humans due to the natural fibers. There is also less waste when cutting patterns because it does not have irregular shapes as animal skins19. It is also an additional income for farmers because they can sell their leftovers and do not have to rely on a seasonal harvest, which contributes to social sustainability. Tanning of skin uses ca. 250 harmful chemicals and leatherette uses toxic chemicals in production and disposal20. Even the leftovers from producing Piñatex can be used as a biofuel 21, and the material has also received the award for Material Innovation in 201622 .
There is a need for new materials such as Piñatex, which focus on already produced materials/residues, the chemicals emitted, and the population. It is research such as this that creates future materials.
GET TO THE ROOT OF THE PROBLEM WITH THE ROOTS OF MUSHROOMS
If you look at the materials of the future, significant developments are happening. A very different, and to many, a very distant material is MycoTEX. It is a way of “growing” clothes. The material is produced with mycelium (the roots of mushrooms) and is a non-woven material (like Pinatex) 23,24. Mycelium is the “vegetative” part of a fungus25. As the textile is grown, there is no need to spin a yarn or weave fabric, as the fabric is put into a mold and shaped26 . MycoTEX needs very little water and no chemicals. Furthermore, it can easily be repaired by growing new, and it is possible to grow precisely the amount
needed 27, 28 .
As the textile is grown, there is no need to spin a yarn or weave fabric, as the fabric is put into a mold and shaped. MycoTEX needs very little water and no chemicals
The idea for the material comes from the dynamic world there is. Consumption is high, and often people get rid of their clothes quickly. That is why Aniela Hoitink, the inventor/founder of mycoTEX, believes that the way textiles are used has to change. Her intent was: “(...) to create a textile out of living material and to learn how to develop a real garment out of it.”29. The choice of mycelium was to create a textile that was flexible while being compostable. Hoitink would not make clothes that could last for a long time when it goes against our consumption. presently, 40% of the excess textiles end up in landfills, but MycoTEX is compostable and will result in less waste. The consumer himself can bury the clothes in the ground when they no longer want it, as the “fabric is not only 100% biodegradable, but can also serve as a breeding ground for other plants... mimicking our biological life cycle.” 30. Also, MycoTEX can be grown locally, thus reducing transport31 .
She would not create clothes that could last for a long time when it goes against our consumption
There are many ways to use existing materials to develop new textiles, as seen with milk leftovers and pineapple leftovers. There is an opportunity to look at alternative ways of making materials as with mycelium. Nevertheless, the question remains whether people are willing to accept the new materials and be open-minded to them? Besides, it also raises questions as to how to get these materials implemented in the clothing industry? And how to inform the consumer about these materials?
