The Cultural Exposé's quickie guide to Bangkok by The Cultural Exposé

The Cultural Exposé’s quickie guide to

BANGKOK

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The Cultural Exposé’s quickie guide to

BANGKOK

January 2011

Bangkok is one of

Asia’s most unique urban metropolises and among the greatest cities in the world to visit. But what makes it so special, you might ask? Simple: it offers many things to many people. There’s the backpackers who can offset pricey flights with lowcost accommodation, food and travel; the medical tourists who’ve long clocked onto the country’s excellent medical facilities; and even urban adventurers like us who simply appreciate new, chaotic and cultural experiences, and don’t mind busting moves with a local or two. So, I’d like to thank Amari Residences Bangkok, Bangkok Hospital, EVA Air and Hills Balfour, who’ve sponsored this edition of the guide; it’s designed for people with limited time and want their information quick and snappy - so you’ll find concise profiles and our personal tips and hyperlinks dotted throughout the guide to quickly access websites (in red). The guide can also be viewed on readers like the iPad for added convenience. Finally, if you have any questions and want to know more about Bangkok, don’t hesitate to drop us a line.

Have a great trip!

The Cultural Exposé team (PIC: MATILDA EGERE-COOPER)

The Basics..........A quick reference guide to the city’s essentials The Destination.............Interesting facts and background info Do’s and Don’ts......................A pick and mix of handy tips

4 5

6-7

Eat & Drink..............................What to eat and where to eat it

10-11 Shopping....................Spots that make spending worthwhile 12 Accommodation..Spots that guarantee a good night’s sleep 13 Things to Do, Places to Go....arts, culture & good times

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THE BASICS

Currency

Out here, people spend “baht”, which is decorated with the regal expression of current King Rama IX. $1 = 33 baht, and bills come in coloured denominations of 1000, 500, 100, 50 and 20. 10 baht comes in a silver/copper coin, while 5 and 1 baht are both silver. Anything less than a baht is a satang. 1 baht = 100 satang and they come in denominations of 25 and 50. Phew! For up to date currency conversions, visit www.xe.com/ucc.

Important Dates

The main public holidays are as follows: January/February - Chinese New Year (first lunar month) March – Magha Puja April 6th – Chakri Day May – Vesakha Puja May 5th – Coronation Day July – Asalha Puja and Vassa August 12th – Queen’s Birthday October 23rd – Chulalongkorn Day December 5th – King’s Birthday December 10th – Constitution Day

Healthcare

It’s worth checking with your GP to see if all your travel vaccinations are up to date as health professionals recommend getting vaccines such as Hepatitis A when visiting Asia – but check the World Health Organisation for further information. Thailand is also known for having some of the best healthcare facilities, like at Bangkok Hospital. They offer 24-hour emergency services as well as other treatments.

Language

The national language is Thai and as there are various regional dialects, Bangkokians speak Central Thai. It’s a tonal language too, so the same word could mean five different things, depending on how it’s spoken (good luck with that!). But if you’re an English speaker, you’ll be just fine.

Telephone

The international code to dial Thailand is 66, while the city code for Bangkok is 2. You’d be hard pushed to find a quality public phone box, so the best bet is to stick with your mobile network (roaming) or purchase an inexpensive SIM card (available in department stores or mobile phone shops) and connect to local mobile phone services such as DTAC, True, AIS and Orange.

Weather

Thailand has three seasons; rainy, hot and cool. No winter! But from May until mid-to-late October, a monsoon tends to sweep in from the Indian Ocean, causing a lot of rain (especially during August and September). A second monsoon typically sweeps through the start of December from the northeast until February – then it’s nothing but high temperatures from March to May. Lovely. Visit news.bbc. co.uk/weather for more info.

Travelling

There’s two airports in Bangkok – the older Don Muang Airport for mainly domestic flights and Suvarnabhumi Airport (also known as New Bangkok International Airport). EVA Air flies between London Heathrow and NBIA daily, and for more info about their flights, visit www.evaair.com. It takes about 30-45 minutes to travel by road into the city, and you can take a taxi (around 250-350 baht), airport buses (150 baht per person; they depart every 30 minutes and run from 5am to midnight). There’s also the rail link which has two lines – a City Line which runs every 15 minutes and makes eight stops across Bangkok, and the Express Line which departs every 30 minutes. Both operate from 6am to midnight. It takes 30 minutes to get from the airport to the Phaya Thai stop and fares range from 15 baht to 45 baht, depending on the distance travelled. For more info, visit www. bangkokairporttrain.com. To get around the city, you can either take the BTS Skytrain and MRT Subway, public buses (7-23 baht), taxis (which start from 35 baht), motorcycle taxis (look out for the drivers in orange vests! Fares are negotiable too!), express boats (5-15 baht) and the adventurous tuk-tuks (fares are negotiable and slightly cheaper than taxis). www.theculturalexpose.co.uk | 4

THE DESTINATION (PIC: MEC)

A few facts about Bangkok...

1. Bangkok’s Thai name “Krung Thep” translates to 4. Unlike other cities, Bangkok doesn’t have a city

City of Angels, but you can call it the “Venice of the “centre” as such, but it’s made up of several areas East” too; until the early 20th century it was made such as the tourist -heavy Sukhumvit Road, which up of many canals, making it very, er, Venetian. coincidentally is also the longest road in Thailand, wouldn’t cha know!

2. The full name of Bangkok goes a little some-

thing like this: Krungthepmahanakhon Amornrattanakosin Mahintharayutthaya Mahadilokphop Noppharat Ratchathaniburirom Udomratchaniwetmahasathan Amonphiman Awatansathit Sakkathattiyawitsanukamprasit. And breathe! Not surprising then that the city has its own place in the Guinness Book of Records!

3. There’s some 8,100,000 inhabitants in Bangkok

5. Around 90%

of Bangkokians believe in Theravada Buddhism, one of the world’s oldest sects, while around 4% of the city’s residents are Muslims. Some Chinese residents practice Mahayana Buddhism, there’s a significant number of Sikhs and a few Vietnamese and Cambodian Roman Catholics.

6. The current King of Thailand is His Majesty Bhu-

mibol Adulyadej (Rama IX the Great), who’s been to be sort of exact, and cultural influences include in his position since 1946. He lives in Bangkok at Indian, Chinese and the West; very cosmopolitan! Chitralada Palace. www.theculturalexpose.co.uk | 5

DO’S AND DONT’S

Do ask the taxi driver to Do get a tuk-tuk ride at Do turn on his meter. There’s a few cheeky cowboys in Bangkok who’ll try to charge you a flat fee of 200 baht for a ride, so if you meet a driver who tries to pull a fast one, it’s on to the next one!

your own peril. Bangkok traffic is ridiculous, but when the roads are semi-clear, a ride on these crazy contraptions could be a reason to check your medical insurance is up to date. Just saying.

get a thai massage, for obvious reasons. They’re cheap, legendary and they’ll leave you feeling pretty rejuvenated. There’s hundreds of massage shops in the city and prices for an hour start from 150 baht upwards.

Do bear in mind that the Do learn the Thai greet-

Do take a chill pill.

Do get your head around Do use these at a market

consider a quickie visit to Phuket. It’s an hour away by plane (visit Bangkok Air for internal flights, www. bangkokair.com). Phuket’s commercial, yes, but the beaches are sublime and the Old Town brims with culture.

Any outward expressions of anger are considered a major faux pas in Thailand, and we wouldn’t want to do that now, would we? Respect the etiquette friends; keep your cool.

time difference is GMT + 7 hours; depending on where you’re flying from too (it’s a 12-hour flight from London - pretty far folks) it can be slightly disorientating and tiring, to say the least.

these basic phrases

ing. It’s called the ‘wai’, and consists of a slight bow, with the hands together in a prayer-like fashion. Hello in Thai is ‘sawatdee’, and if you’re male, you’ll end this with ‘krup’ while females say ‘ka’.

Thank you: Kop koon krup/ka

How much does this cost? Nee raka tao-rai krup/ka

Sorry/Excuse me: Kaw tote krup/ka

Can I look at that one? Khaw doo an-nan

I cannot speak Thai: Poot thai mai dai krup/ka

Expensive / too expensive: Phaeng/phaeng pai www.theculturalexpose.co.uk | 6

Don’t

Don’t point with your Don’t

Don’t be precious with

You’re used to your country’s H2O, so any differences in PH balance, foreign matters and all that jazz may not go down well. Keep it safe; keep it bottled (and on that topic, drink LOTS of water – it’s HOT!!!)

feet. Unlike the head, feet are considered to be rather despicable (okay, maybe not THAT bad), so avoid gesturing with your tootsies and stepping across people or things.

say anything disrespectful about the King or the Royal Family. The Monarchy is highly respected in Thailand, so dodgy comments are punishable by the law! Yikes.

dress inappropriately at religious sites. Shorts and sleeveless tops are an absolute no-no if you fancy visiting a “Wat” (temple), so ladies, bring a shawl, and fellas, wear your trousers.

Don’t

get caught up with the street vendors. They’ve got the touristy sites locked down (you might even see the guys who’ll sell badges with your picture on it!), but don’t believe the hype; engage at your discretion.

Don’t

forget to cop a bargain at the Chatuchak weekend market; it’s the largest market in Thailand! It’s worth getting a map and hopping aboard one of the free shuttle buggies to get around it too; it covers 27 acres!

touch your head. The head represents a sacred part of the body to Thais, so don’t be surprised if you get a whole lot of frowns and tutting if you touch your (or someone else’s) head, even if it’s harmless.

your footwear. You can’t step into a temple without taking off your shoes, but the temples take no liability if they go walkies. Mind you, they shouldn’t do, but it doesn’t hurt to be aware.

Don’t

miss the Muay Thai. This variety of boxing (it uses fists, elbows, knees AND feet) is the country’s national sport – and there’s opportunities to catch fairly decent matches in Bangkok at Lumpinee Boxing Stadium. www.theculturalexpose.co.uk | 7

DO’S AND DON’TS

Don’t drink tap water. Don’t

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EAT & DRINK

Thai cuisine is fresh and varied at the city’s many restaurants, noodle and curry-rice shops, street stalls or night markets for super value. But in the event you fancy other options, international cuisine is widely available. Chinatown is obviously the best spot for Chinese food, but you can get a great Indian from Pharurat and Bangkrak, and it’s worth heading to Nana off Sukhumvit Road for Middle Eastern, Italian and French offerings. There’s also 5-star dining, available at various hotel restaurants such as the Amari Residence Bangkok’s Soma Restaurant.

Mokka Since 1964

For nearly 50 years, Mokka has provided quality Thai and Western dining without combining the two, in the way certain fusion trends might dictate. Instead, diners have been able to enjoy simple dishes such as a Napoletana pizza, while classic Thai fare – like tom yum soup - has always gone down well with the professional and cultured locals that regularly frequent the branch on Languan Road. The decor’s fabulous too, inspired by vintage European bistros and even features a third floor terrace with views of Lumpini park. Finally, there’s a great range of cocktails and an impressive wine list that’ll certainly compliment any meal. Mokka at 45/4-8 Langsuan Road, Lumpini, Pathum Wan (Tel: 2-2545699) or the second restaurant at 231/18 Sarasin Road, (Tel: 02-254-569). For more eat + drink recommendations, visit bangkok.com/restaurants

(PIC: MEC)

Not sure what to order? Here’s some tips: Starters tom kha kai Galangal and coconut soup with chicken tom yum goong Spicy lemongrass soup with prawns/shrimps yam plaa duk foo Spicy catfish salad Main courses kaeng khiao wan kai Green curry with chicken kaeng phet kai/neua Red curry with chicken/beef kai thawt Fried chicken kai yaang Grilled chicken khao phat kai/moo Fried rice with chicken/pork khao tom moo/kung Rice soup with pork/prawns kuaytiaw phat see ew Stir-fried noodles Sides khao suay steamed jasmine rice phat phak mixed vegetables Drinks naam Water bia Beer kaafae rawn Hot coffee kaafae yen Iced coffee chaa rawn Hot tea chaa yen Iced tea

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THINGS EXTO DO

THE $5 LUNCH FROM BROOKLYN MOON (PIC: MEC)

(PIC: MEC)

The beautiful contradiction of this city lies in the way a strong spiritual tradition exists alongside a rowdy nightlife for grown folks, wrapped up in Thai’s super-friendly culture. So whether you’re seeking sanctuary or simply want to party hard, there’s much to do in Bangkok. This includes enjoying the fascinating architecture, which can be appreciated at the numerous temples - there’s also market-trawling, visiting great bars or keeping it traditional by checking out Thai music events.

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

Known formally as Wat Phra Si Ratana Satsadaram, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha is the most famous in Thailand and is based near the Grand Palace. It’s all quite dazzling to say the least; the historical grounds consist of over 100 brightly-coloured buildings, ginormous statues, mosaic-covered pillars, Italian-influenced architecture and even religious artwork. There’s also the many “stupas”, gilded monuments which are said to contain the remains of Buddha and are revered by Buddhist worshippers. Inside the temple itself is the jade Buddha, which sits on a pedestal about 9 metres high and is considered to be so sacred that no one is allowed near it except King Rama IX for regular rituals. Therefore you can’t visit in shorts or sleeveless clothing and must hold back on the snapshots until you leave. For more information, visit palaces.thai.net or call 2-222-8181 extension 1124.

More Places & Attractions Museums National Museum Vimanmek Mansion Bangkokian Museum

Arts and Culture

Temples

Places

Wat Pho The birthplace of traditional Thai massage and famous for its 46-metre long Reclining Buddha.

Chinatown ((Yaowarat or Sampeng)

Wat Traimit A temple which houses the world’s largest solid-gold Buddha Wat Arun The ‘Temple of Dawn’ is a major landmark near the west bank of the Chao Phraya River.

Thailand Creative & Design Center Bangkok Art & Culture Centre

Lumpini Park Monk’s Bowl Village The only village left that produces the ceremonial monk’s bowls (bàat ) used to collect alms every morning. Mambo cabaret Lumpinee Boxing Stadium Thonglor

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Loy Nava Dinner Cruises, River of Kings

Events January River of Kings 12 days of sound and light shows, Thai dance and music at Ratchaworadit Pier Bangkok Fringe Festival Chinese New Year

February Magha Puja A Buddhist festival Temple Fairs

March Bangkok International Fashion Week

Kathmandu Photo Gallery This relatively retro gallery is based in a restored pre-war shophouse near the Sri Mariammam, an Indian Temple in Bangkok’s financial district. Black and white images produced by owner and photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom adorn the gallery’s green walls downstairs, while upstairs is reserved for the latest exhibition. There’s also a book section and other South Asian crafts for sale, so it’s worth a visit. For more info, visit www. kathmandu-bkk.com/

Jim Thompson House

Had this US founder of the infamous Thai Silk company not mysteriously disappeared in 1967, who’s to say what would have become of his outstanding home? Now, it’s a museum which features Thompson’s extensive Southeast Asian art collection, as well as a gallery and a cafe. He’s highly revered amongst the Thai, as Thompson left behind a remarkable legacy as the retired war veteran who singlehandedly revived interest in Thai silk in the 1950s and 1960s – much of which can be appreciated at this tourist haven. For more info, visit www.jimthompsonhouse.com.

April Songkhran Festival Celebrated as the traditional New Year’s Day from 13 to 15 April. Known for its water fights. Chakri Day Observed on April 6 to honour the contributions of the kings of the Chakri dynasty Naris Day A commemoration of the birth of King Rama IV’s son Prince Narisara Nuvativongse

May Visakha Puja A Buddhist festival Royal Ploughing Ceremony A Grand Palace event which marks the beginning of the rice-planting season. Coronation Day A Grand Palace celebration of the day His Majesty Rama IX became the ninth King of the Chakri Dynasty.

July Asalha Puja A Buddhist festival Khao Phansa Buddhist Lent

August Queen’s Birthday Short Film & Video Festival

September-October Vegetarian Festival Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival International Festival of Music & Dance Bangkok International Design Festival Elle Fashion Week

November Loi Krathong Also known as the Festival of Lights World Film Festival of Bangkok Bangkok Pride Festival Golden Mount Temple Fair Bangkok Theatre Festival Bangkok Marathon

December King’s Birthday/Father’s Day Trooping the Colour An annual ceremony at the Royal Plaza where the King’s Guard offer birthday blessings to the King. Constitution Day Concert in the Park Indy Festival

Nightlife

Visit these links to find out about alternative events

www.bangkokvacations.net/ Bangkok-Nightlife/bars.htm

www.1stopbangkok.com/hospitality/bars_2

www.bangkokpost.com/leisure/ nightlife

www.bangkok.com/club-guide/

www.mybangkokholiday.com/ nightlife/pub-bar/

www.lost-in-bangkok.com/ www.thailand.com/travel/nightlife/nightlife_bangkok.htm

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PLACES TO GO

Mark my words people; dinner cruises are the future, and not to only be enjoyed by lovedup couples and OAPs. The tours offered by Loy Nava are such a classy way of experiencing Thai culture; you’re greeted with a rose-water sprinkling ceremony and jasmine garland before given two hours to enjoy an excellent four-course menu and entertainment on an antique rice barge that passes a few notable sites en route, such as The Grand Palace, Pat Klong Market and Wat Arun, a stunner at night. Visit www.loynava.com for more info.

June La Fête A French Thai Cultural Festival

SHOPPING

THE $5 LUNCH FROM BROOKLYN MOON (PIC: MEC)

If you can imagine the vibrancy and chaos of a city like Bangkok, just think how exhilarating a shopping spree would be! But the first thing you have to do is figure out where to go: there’s a variety of markets (like the famous Chatuchak weekend market) and shopping malls scattered throughout the districts, each offering their own unique wares and cultural experience. One thing is certain; you’ll be leaving with a few bargains – just make sure you’ve polished your haggling skills (Lot raakhaa dai mai? ie. Can you lower the price?) and you really can’t go wrong.

Siam Square

The great thing about this area is that if you’re a newbie to the city, this is an introduction to the madness of Bangkok’s retail culture. Within the Square you’ll find the Siam Discovery Centre and Siam Centre, the first large shopping spots to be erected in the city. The inter-connected malls feature restaurants and cinemas, and can be reached via the Skytrain (stops National Stadium or Siam Station). There’s also the nearby MBK (Mah Boon Krong) Center, where you’ll find loads of low-price electronics, branded clothing (and knock-offs) and jewellery. Next to Siam Discovery Centre and Siam Centre and located on Rama I Road is Siam Paragon, another large mall with an equally impressive number of its own shops, not to mention a huge supermarket, bowling alley, karaoke rooms, concert hall and the Siam Ocean World aquarium. Other nearby centres include Central World Plaza, Pantip Plaza, The Emporium, Gaysorn Plaza, while Pratunam Market is merely a few minutes away by taxi, skytrain or tuk-tuk.

(PIC: MEC)

Markets in Bangkok Banglamphu Market - A spot for clothes, cosmetics and handbags Bo Bae Market (Krung Kasem Road) – Wholesale clothing market, busiest in the mornings Chatuchak Weekend Market – One of Asia’s largest markets, covering 27 acres and hosting 15,000 stalls. Taling Chan Floating Market – A food market and tourist attraction. Pak Klong Talat Flower Market One of Bangkok’s major flower markets; open 24-hours too. Pratunam Market – A massive, 24hour clothing market that’s great for low-cost fabrics and textiles. Night Markets Patpong Night Bazaar – A popular destination based along the precinct of Patpong. Home to some of Bangkok’s famous nightspots. Khaosan Road – A boho locale, favoured by backpackers and featuring dozens of bars, eateries and clubs.

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(PIC: MEC)

Amari Residences Bangkok (36 Soi Soonvijai, New Petchburi Road Bangkapi, Huay Kwang

Classy, opulent and serene, the Amari Residences Bangkok is a far cry from the characteristic bedlam that’s evident downtown – so as it’s situated near Bangkok hospital, it’s the ideal spot for out-patients or those who just fancy a little peace and quiet. The rooms are modern and stylish and range from studios to two-bedroom units, which feature decked out kitchens, dining and living areas. As for on-site amenities, expect a fitness room, a roof-top swimming pool and the divine Sivara Spa & Salon. There’s also two restaurants to enjoy; the Soma restaurant serves Thai and international cuisine, plus a lavish breakfast buffet while The Buttercup cafe is the first choice for those who love their cakes and other sweet stuff. Also, as the hotel is beside the New Petchburi Road, it’s easy to get downtown and the nearby MRT, while the airport is merely 30 minutes away by taxi. Rates start from £49 per night, but for more info visit www.amari.com or call 2-653-9000.

Sites for more information Hotels, Resorts & Spas www.amari.com Bed and Breakfast bedandbreakfastworld.com www.couchsurfing.com (good for finding a spot to simply rest your head!) General information www.tourismthailand.org/ where-to-stay

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ACCOMMODATION SHOPPING

Everything culture and business-related kicks off in Bangkok – so understandably, getting quality and affordable accommodation isn’t a problem. There’s quite a range to choose from too, whether it’s bougie 5-stars, budget hotels, resorts with spas, stylish guesthouses, hostels for backpackers, raft resorts and even homestays, the unique arrangement of living with a Thai family. Depending on what you go for, it’s advised to book early if you plan to visit during the peak season; this tends to be December (especially around the Christmas period) to April, and later in July and August. Also, bear in mind that small hotels and guesthouses might insist on cash payments, while large hotels will usually accept international credit cards and include a 10 percent service charge and 7 percent tax to the room bill.

The Cultural Exposé’s

quickie guide to

Bangkok

Produced and published by The Cultural Exposé www.theculturalexpose.co.uk Email: guides@theculturalexpose.co.uk Tel: +44208 133 0359 First edition © 2011 The Cultural Exposé Text © 2011 The Cultural Exposé Project editor: Matilda Egere-Cooper Extra Research: Syriah Bailey All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any part of the world, without prior permission of the publisher. Requests for permission should be made to the publisher at the above e-mail address. Although every care has been taken in compiling this publication, and the contents are believed to be correct at the time of printing, The Cultural Exposé cannot accept any responsibility for errors or omission, however caused, or for changes in details given in the guide, or for the consequences of any reliance on the information provided. Also most descriptions and assessments are based on the author(s) personal views and experiences when writing.

We’d love to get your feedback. * Do you have any interesting tips or know of any sights, venues, restaurants or places of accommodation that we didn’t feature?

* Want to let us know how we could improve the guide in the future? Send us your ideas and recommendations and we might include it and credit you in the next edition! Email: guides@theculturalexpose.co.uk

Acknowledgements

Grateful to these sources that were used for research:Time Out Bangkok, modernthailand.com, thailand.tourism-asia.net, goseasia.about.com, thaibuddhist.com, asiarooms.com, bangkokpicture.com, tour-bangkok-legacies.com, sacred-destinations. com, roughguides.com, central.co.th, amari.com, Fah Thai magazine and The Berlitz Bangkok pocket guide. Also, to Sarah Lee from LiveShareTravel.com for her useful tips and advice and Flickr photographers Stefano Panep, Ray_from_LA, Phillie Casablanca, david.crawford and edwin.11 for their images. Finally, another big thanks to Amari Residences Bangkok, EVA Air, Bangkok Hospital and Rosie Pook at Hills Balfour.

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