2014 columbia views by The DailyNews

Columbia Views

nw oregon & SW washington 2014 travel planner

Y!r PpLloA re ou

ex lakes, Rivers, beaches p. 18

free

10 hot spots our must-see quick trips p. 4

52 Weekend adventures

Cresap Bay campground Lake Merwin, lewis river

p. 6

volcanos, hikes, festivals & more A supplement of The Daily News

Ocea� Par� Are� SW Washingto�’� Beac� an� Ba�

If you are looking for a weekend close to nature, activities that the entire family will never forget, festivals or events nearly every weekend of the year, beautiful scenery, historic landmarks, walking trails and seafood that can’t get any fresher, then treat yourself to SW Washington’s Ocean Park Area. Discover the history, festivals, food and wildlife that made the region where the Columbia River meets the Pacific famous.

Head to the coast! The Ocean Park Area awaits! Ocean Park Resort

Gary McGrew, Broker

2014 Local Events ŏ PAA Annual Spring Art Show Apr 25-27 ŏ World’s Largest Garage Sale May 23-26 ŏ Annual NW Garlic Festival June 14-15 ŏ Old Fashioned 4th of July Parade July 4 ŏ Art in the Park July 4 ŏ PAA Starving Artist’s Sale July 5 ŏ Music in the Gardens July 19 ŏ Jazz and Oysters Aug 17 ŏ Labor Day Book Sale Aug 30-Sep 2 ŏ 6XQVHW %RQÀ UH %HDFK $SSURDFK Aug 30 ŏ Rod Run to the End of the World Sep 6 and 7 ŏ PAA Annual Fall Art Show Oct 10-13 ŏ :DWHU 0XVLF )HVWLYDO Oct 10-11 ŏ 3$$ 6WXGLR $UW 7RXU Nov 29 and 30

Surfside Inn

2NLHV 7KULIWZD\

/,*+7+286( 5($/7<

www.opresort.com/html/app12.html

www.McGrewCrew.com

www.surfsideinnHOA.com

www.okiesthriftway.com

360.665.4585

360.783.2831

800.347.8182/360.665.2000

360.665.5222

Jack’s Country Store

Westgate Cabins/RV Park

Willapa Bay Interpretive Center

%DQN RI 3DFLÀ F

www.Jackscountrystore.com

www.vacationwestgate.com

www.portofpeninsula.org/oysterhouse.html

360.665.4989

360.665.4211

www.bank of the pacific.com

(360)665-4547

360.665.4585

Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce

Learn more about us at www.opwa.com/html/app6.html or call us toll free 888.751.9354 If you would like to go to our website, send us an email, call us, or get driving directions to the Ocean Park Area without typing, please go to your VPDUW SKRQHV $SS VWRUH DQG GRZQORDG D IUHH 45 FRGH UHDGHU 7KHQ VFDQ WKLV 45 &RGH ZLWK LW :H UHFRPPHQG , QLJPD

welcome From every direction in the Lower Columbia region the views ...

are outstanding. Mount St. Helens. It’s been 34 years since its eruption changed the local landscape — and the volcano became the main tourist attraction in the Lower Columbia area. The harsh but beautiful landscape around the volcano has plenty of competition for sightseeing here, however. Our rivers. Follow the route of Lewis and Clark, who spent the winter of 1805-06 near Astoria. Drive west along the broad Columbia River, which meets the Pacific Ocean near towns fresh with sea breeze that have become popular tourist destinations. Ocean landscapes range from miles of flat, sandy beach to towering cliffs topped by solid lighthouses that are still in use more than a century after they were built. Our towns. The region’s small towns offer their own delights, and most put on family-oriented festivals during the summer. This guide helps you plan for those festivals and many more of the region’s natural and man-made pleasures.

360°

STAFF

Mountains, rivers, lakes, beaches and more. Each page will help you unlock the magic of the Lower Columbia.

On the cover

Kaylee Peterson

at Lake Merwin

Publisher Editor Associate editors Photographers Writers Advertising managers Graphic artists Ad layout designer Address Phone Websites Advertise

Rick Parrish Evan Caldwell Rieva Lester Dominic Baez R.D. Hight Andre Stepankowsky Ryan Horlen Bill Wagner Roger Werth Evan Caldwell Tom Paulu Tom Paulu Brenda McCorkle Sarah Grothjan Steve Quaife Michelle Carr Marianne Chambers Barbara Chapman Marc Monge Diann Abbott Jolene Williamson Bob Crisman The Daily News P.O. Box 189 770 11th Ave. Longview, WA 98632 800-341-4745 TDN.com TDN.com/ColumbiaViews 360-577-2552

Columbia Views is published by The Daily News and distributed throughout Southwest Washington and Northwest Oregon. Copies are available at select businesses and destinations throughout the region and at The Daily News. © Columbia Views, 2014 The Daily News, a Lee Enterprises publication.

area getaways

best

Fish the Kalama River >> Page 18

Shop, relax and kayak in Wahkiakum County

Places where you need to go Hood River This town upriver on the Columbia is loaded with lures for tourists, too. It’s a mecca for windsurfers, hikers and sightseers. >> Page 62

Ecola State Park at Cannon Beach

Ecola State Park With its cove-shaped beaches and forested headlands, it’s a gem on the Oregon coast. Access the park through Cannon Beach, a trendy shoppingoriented town. >> Page 58

Columbia Theatre This beautiful hall built in 1925 was extensively renovated several years ago. The Italian Renaissance decor looks nicer than ever. >> Page 34

>> Page 48

Windy Ridge

Johnston Ridge

Though it requires a drive all the way around Mount St. Helens, this is the best place to witness the volcano’s 1980 devastation of shattered trees and scorched earth. It’s also the best place to see Spirit Lake. >> Page 12

Mount St. Helens is the most famous attraction in these parts, and Johnston Ridge is the best place to look into the volcano’s crater, which is just 3 miles away. The Johnston Ridge Observatory (visitor center) offers indoor exhibits and an outdoor amphitheater. >> Page 10

Listening to sea lions bark is one of the many, many things to do in Astoria. >> Page 50 Go surfing ... or just watch at the beautiful Cape Disappointment State Park. >> Page 54

Explore and learn at Johnston Ridge Observatory at Mount St. Helens. >> Page 10

Kalama River One of the prettiest rivers in the region can easily be seen from turnouts along the Kalama River Road, which parallels it. River access for anglers and swimmers is relatively generous. >> Page 42

Cape Disappointment State Park Not one, but two lighthouses — plus an outstanding museum — are among the attractions at this 2,000-acre park. Visitors can explore beaches, hike through woods and tour the old lighthouse keepers’ house. >> Page 54

Ape Cave The longest cave open to the public in the Northwest is more than 2 miles. The ¾-mile walk to the lower end is relatively easy, and rangers lead tours and rent lanterns. >> Page 12

Wahkiakum County The term “quaint” is overused, but Cathlamet, a town perched above the Columbia River, really is. You can see the sights in an hour’s stroll. Just a few miles west of Cathlamet, the waterfront village of Skamokawa is smaller — and equally quaint.

Astoria Few cities of this size can pack in as many tourism attractions as Astoria does — and the Columbia River scenery is great, too. Astoria offers several outstanding museums and a replica of where Lewis and Clark stayed one winter is nearby. >> Page 50

>> Page 48

area getaways

January Week 1: To beat the post-holiday doldrums, go to the Broadway Gallery at 1418 Commerce for the First Thursday reception, this or any other month. Week 2: By now, there’s usually enough snow at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park south of Mount St. Helens for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. Week 3: A good place for a mid-winter hike is Seaquest State Park, which has 6 miles of trails. >> Parks.wa.gov Week 4: Grab a pair of binoculars and go bird- watching. Good local spots are Willow Grove, the ponds near the old Trojan Nuclear Power Plant near Rainier and, believe it or not, the old Longview sewage lagoons at Coal Creek Road and Ocean Beach Highway.

february

march

Week 5: Anglers, hunters and boaters flock to the Pacific Northwest Sportsmen’s Show, held in early February at the Portland Expo Center. >> Thesportshows.com/pnwss

Week 9: With a decent snowpack and longer days, March is a good month for cross-country skiing or snowshoeing at the Upper Wind River Recreation Area near Carson.

Week 6: This one’s dependent on snow, but if there’s a recent low-elevation snowfall, head up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway with sleds or snowshoes. Park at a turnout and enjoy the sliding fun.

Week 10: Last year was the first time in four years that smelt dipping was allowed in the Cowlitz River. The smelt usually arrive in March.

Week 7: A good place for a hike that’s nearby is Camp Wilkerson near Vernonia. Week 8: Several hundred elk congregate on the Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area in winter. >> dfw.state.or.us

Week 11: Visit Multnomah Falls on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge now, as spring rains send water gushing over the 611-foot cascade. Week 13: The peak of the spring chinook fishery usually occurs in late March. Anglers in boats and along the Columbia River try for the most-prized salmon run on the river. The fishery usually closes in early April Week 14: Spring is the best time of the year for hiking in the Columbia River Gorge, when the wildflowers are blooming. See Page 62 for more.

Hike, climb and explore the volcano. For guided tours, field seminars and summer programs for all ages, see mshinstitute.org

april Week 15: In the past decade, about a dozen wineries have sprung up in the area. They offer tastings on weekends. For more information, see Page 28. Week 16: Tiptoe through the tulips. The Woodland Tulip Festival features fields of bright blooms and concerts. >> Lewisriver.com/tulipfestival Week 17: The Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens in Woodland are abloom for the annual Lilac Festival, which runs April 19 to May 11 in 2014. >> Lilacgardens.com Week 18: The traditional opening of the trout fishing season is the fourth Saturday in April in Washington and Oregon. Though most lakes are open yeararound these days, they’re heavily stocked with trout for this “opening” weekend.

may

june

Week 19: Kokanee fishing in Lake Merwin is usually good in May. These landlocked sockeye salmon are particularly tasty. You’ll need a boat to access the fishery. >> Wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/washington/735/

Week 23: This is a good time of year to hike out Boundary Trail No. 1 from the Johnston Ridge Observatory, while the soil is still relatively moist rather than dusty. For more information, see Page 10.

Week 20: Check out the TDN.com Spotlight entertainment calendar for concerts and plays. Mid-May is usually one of busiest seasons for local entertainment.

Week 24: Ocean salmon fishing seasons should be in full swing by now. Charter boats operate out of the Ilwaco docks.

Week 21: The Crown-Zellerbach Trail, a one-time logging road, climbs gently for miles out of Scappoose, Ore. It’s a good place to walk or ride a bicycle. >> Rideoregonride.com Week 22: Late spring and early summer are the best times of the year to climb Mount St. Helens. It’s easier to walk up the volcano’s south flank over snow than rocks, which appear by midsummer as the snow melts. >> Mshinstitute.org/index.php/climbing

Week 25: The summer festival season gets into high gear in June and continues through summer in many of the towns across the region. For a full list, see Page 30. Week 26: Consider a guided kayaking trip on Merwin Reservoir. No experience is required. >> cascadepackandpaddle.com/kayak.html

area getaways

july

september

Week 32: August is the best month to hike the high country, with wildflowers replacing snow drifts. Consider a hike through the Paradise meadows at Mount Rainier National Park. >> nps.gov/mora

Week 28: Longview’s Concerts at the Lake series on Thursday nights offers a mix of family friendly genres — plus it’s free. The schedule appears on Page 35.

Week 33: The Buoy 10 season in the lower Columbia River is a hot spot for salmon. The run is particularly strong this year.

Week 36: The premiere bicycle ride of the season, The Tour de Blast, climbs up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway. It’s on Sept. 13 in 2014. >> tourdeblast.com

Week 29: Hike to Norway Pass, one of the classic views of Mount St. Helens over Spirit Lake.

Week 34: For a good family bicycle or walking excursion, check out the 8.5-mile-long Discovery Trail from Ilwaco to Long Beach. Shorter sections are possible.

Week 37: Tour several dozen art galleries, mostly in Lewis County during Southwest Washington ARTrails. >> Artrailsofsww.org/studio-tour-a-gala

Week 34: For one last weekend of camping, head to Cape Disappointment State Park near Ilwaco or Fort Stevens State Park west of Astoria.

Week 38: The Indian Heaven area southeast of Mount St. Helens offers dozens of lakes and streams amid rolling open country. Indian Heaven is mosquito hell in summer, so visiting is best after the first frost.

Week 30: Spend a day exploring Astoria. For suggestions, see Page 50. Week 31: Visit Ape Canyon on the southeast side of Mount St. Helens, where the trail drops past (and crosses over) several waterfalls.

Relax here. Vista Park in Skamokawa is the place to be in the summer! Page 48

august

Week 27: Longview’s Go 4th Festival at Lake Sacajawea is a three-day event, with vendors, a cardboard boat regatta and, of course, fireworks on the glorious fourth.

Week 35: Huckleberries should be in bloom along roads trails in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Grab your buckets.

october Week 39: The monsoon season will arrive soon, so enjoy a last dry day of walking along the beach at Cannon Beach, Ore. See Page 58. Week 40: The biggest hunting day of the year comes on the second Saturday of October, when thousands of hunters try their luck during the modern rifle deer season. If you’re not a hunter, it’s a good time to stay out of the woods. Week 41: The Cedar Creek Grist Mill near Woodland shows how grain was ground in the old days. >> Cedarcreekgristmill.com Week 42: To get an idea of how members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition lived during the winter of 1804-05, visit Fort Clatsop near Astoria. >> nps.gov/lewi/index.htm Week 43: Local groups scare up some fun with Halloween haunted houses. See TDN.com for details.

november Week 44: The modern rifle elk hunting season starts in early November. Week 45: Bazaar season is in full swing, with local artisans selling their goods, which make good holiday gifts. Watch TDN.com for a full list. Week 46: Even if the rains have set in, there’s plenty to see in indoor Astoria. For more information, see Page 50. Week 47: Enough snow usually has fallen by now for downhill ski areas at Mount Hood and White Pass to be in full swing.

december Week 48: The first weekend of December is usually one of the busiest of the holiday season, with Longview’s Christmas Parade, Kelso’s Tree Lighting and several concerts and other festive events. Look for a full list on TDN.com on Thursdays. Week 49: Thousands of people flock to the Journey to Bethlehem, a re-enactment of Jesus’ birth, at the Kelso-Longview Seventh-day Adventist Church. It’s Dec. 11-14, 2014. Week 50: Winter steelhead fishing is usually good in December on the Cowlitz and other local rivers. Week 51: Lion’s Island at Lake Sacajawea and the streets around the lake are reliable places to see thousands of twinkling holiday season lights. Week 52: For a change of pace from New Year’s Eve parties, run or walk the Year-to-Year run. >> CowlitzValleyRunners.com

mount st. helens

Mount St. Helens Visitor Center Just 5 miles up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, this isn’t just a place to learn about the volcano; it’s one of the most impressive public buildings in the region. You can easily spend an educational 90 minutes seeing everything at Cowlitz County’s largest museum. It offers lessons in geology, history and, of course, volcanology. Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily May 16 through Sept. 15 and 9 a.m.- 4 p.m. at other times. Summer hours may be extended. Cost: $5 adults, $2.50 ages 7-17, $15 per family. >> Parks.wa.gov/245/Mount-St-Helens-Visitor-Center 10

Stare inside the crater

Mount St. Helens’ eruption on May 18, 1980, killed 57 people and permanently changed the local landscape. Since then, the volcano has spawned a wealth of tourism attractions. The best views into the crater are from Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, which has four visitor centers. South of the volcano is the climbing route, a fascinating cave and a dramatic canyon. To the east is the breathtaking Windy Ridge.

hoffstadt bluffs Visitor Center Here, you’ll find expanded exhibits and the Fire Mountain Grill restaurant, along with a gift shop. In summer, Hillsboro Aviation offers helicopter tours. The cost is $99 per person and up, depending on duration. The center is 27 miles up the highway. Admission is free. It’s open 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. >> Hoffstadtbluffs.com

Weyerhaeuser Forest learning Center Learn about the pre-eruption forest and how the company salvaged downed timber. Weyerhaeuser lost 20,700 acres of timber to Mount St. Helens’ fury. Telescopes offer views of elk below in the Toutle Valley below. There’s also a gift shop and playground. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. six days a week May 9 through Labor Day. It will be closed on Thursdays. Admission is free. >> Mountsthelens.com/Forest-Learning-Center

MT. ST. HELENS

BEST

GARDENS CASTLE ROCK WASHINGTON coldwater lake Since Coldwater Lake opened to the public in 1993, it’s been open for kayakers, canoers and boats with electric motors. Cascade Pack & Paddle of Ariel offers paddle trips on the 750-acre lake, along with hiking trips. >> cascadepackandpaddle.com At the nearby Mount St. Helens Science and Learning Center, you’ll find science programs operated by the Mount St. Helens Institute, mshinstitute.org. The facility is open to the public from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. >> mshslc.org

johnston ridge observatory This boasts the best viewpoint into Mount St. Helens’ crater at the end of the highway, 54 miles from I-5. The observatory sits atop a 1,000foot-high cliff, adding to the drama. A theater, volcano model and exhibits on geology await visitors. The 150-seat amphitheater hosts ranger talks, junior ranger programs and at least three evening concerts this season. The Eruption Trail outside makes a ¾-mile loop, or continue on the Boundary Trail for as many miles as you have time and energy for. Hours: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. every day from May 10 through late fall. Cost: $8 for people 16 and older. Free admission on May 18, June 7, June 14 and Sept. 27. >> fs.fed.us/gpnf/mshnvm

9 Water Features • Meditation Areas Gift Shop • Nursery Conveniently located for beginning or ending your Mt. St. Helens adventure.

360.749.2034 • gardensatstillmeadows.com 11

mount st. helens

Climb above the crater

Spirit Lake Memorial Highway may get most of the glory, but don’t overlook the southern approach to Mount St. Helens. Because the south side didn’t suffer much devastation 33 years ago, there’s actually much more to do here.

Phone 360-274-5200 www.mtsthelensinfo.com 12

470337

15000 Spirit Lake Highway, Milepost 27

Climbing Mount St. Helens

Ape Cave

Climbing Mount St. Helens is relatively safe in summer months. Between 11,000 and 12,000 people have received climbing permits and more than 80 percent make it to the summit. To reach the top requires climbing 4,500 feet of elevation in 5 miles. Strong legs – but no technical climbing expertise — are needed. Permits ($15) are required. Get them at mshinstitute.org

One of the many natural wonders of Mount St. Helens is actually underground. A volcanic lava flow 2,000 years ago sculpted Ape Cave, a series of amazing caverns and passages a few miles south of the volcano. At 12,810 feet in length, Ape Cave is the longest lava tube in North America. It’s three-quarters of a mile from the cave entrance to the lower end, a relatively easy route. For a longer adventure, head uphill from the entrance for about 1 ½ miles, climbing over no less than 27 piles of rock. (The cave is open year-round, though remember that in winter, the trail back from the upper exit is often covered with snow.) To reach Ape Cave, drive east of Cougar on Lewis River Road (Road 90) for 7 miles and turn left onto Road 83. Turn left again onto Road 8303. Guided tours will be given from the last week in June through Labor Day.

Windy Ridge This viewpoint area boasts great views of Spirit Lake and the vast pumice plain extending toward the peak. The drive there passes the dramatic line between green timber and trees splintered by the 1980 eruption. Getting there requires about 200 miles of driving round-trip from the Kelso area. Take Interstate 5 north to Highway 12, then go east to Randle. Then take Forest roads 25 and 99 toward Windy Ridge.

Lava Canyon About 3,500 years ago, lava flowed down a canyon a few miles from Mount St. Helens, forming giant blobs as big as three- or fourstory buildings. There they sat, largely unnoticed, until a 1980 volcanic mudflow down the Muddy River scoured out the canyon, exposing dramatic cliffs, lava formations and churning waterfalls that had been hidden. Now a system of loop trails 2 ½ miles long, some of it wheelchair-accessible, serves the canyon. Take Road 90 east of Cougar for 7 miles, then turn left onto Road 83. Continue another 11 miles to the end of Road 83.

hiking

r fo y a d ry e v e t u o d a e h n ca You a re a ia b m lu o C r e w o L e th in weeks and not hike all the trails.

BOUNDARY TRAIL The single most spectacular hike near Mount St. Helens is the Boundary Trail, which starts at the Johnston Ridge Observatory. Day- hikers can go as far as they have the time and energy for, ranging from an hour-long stroll to a 13-mile roundtrip trek to the summit of 5,727-foot Coldwater Peak. Backpackers with permits can stay overnight at designated campsites. For reservations: recreation.gov or 877-444-6777. For the first 1 ½ miles east of the JRO visitor center, the trail stays near the edge of Johnston Ridge, which is at 4,200 feet elevation. Then the trail cuts across “The Devil’s Elbow,” a steep side slope of pumice and not-very-stable earth, with drop-offs that can be disconcerting. TRUMAN TRAIL The Truman Trail descends through a deeply eroded valley, past a palette of colorful deposits. It flattens out on the broad pumice plain between Spirit Lake and the volcano, with breathtaking views right into the crater. It’s about 1 ½ miles from the Boundary Trail down to the Spirit Lake area, a good turn-around point for a one-day hike. HUMMOCKS TRAIL 229 A loop of 2.3 miles winds through the harsh landscape of the hummocks, debris deposited by the mudflow down the Toutle River Valley. Today, it’s a land of marshes populated by birds and amphibians amid the dried pumice hills. Elevation change is about 300 feet, so it’s an easier family hike than the Boundary or Truman trails. The trailhead is across the highway from Coldwater Lake, on the way to the Johnston Ridge Observatory. 14

SOUTH COLDWATER TRAIL Another hike off Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, this route starts near the lower end of Coldwater Lake and climbs 3.1 miles up the ridge east of the lake, gaining 1,300 feet. Much of the route is on old logging roads. The trail (230A) passes logging equipment that was blown off the hillside by the volcano’s force. A big shovel lies upside down, a sobering reminder of the 1980 eruption’s power. GOAT MOUNTAIN TRAIL A steep path climbs to some top-notch alpine country in a relatively obscure part of Mount St. Helens country, 12 miles north of the volcano. Goat Mountain Trail No. 217 starts from Road 2612, near Ryan Lake in the upper Green River Valley. From elevation 3,200 feet, the trail gains 2,000 feet in fewer than 2 miles. It traverses the ridge for about 2 miles, then dips to Deadmans Lake.

HARMONY TRAIL This is the only trail that goes to the shore of Spirit Lake. The view across the lake includes Harry’s Ridge and the foreboding peaks of the Mount Margaret Ridge. There’s a view into the crater from here, too. The Harmony Trail No. 224 starts near the end of Road 99. It descends for 1 mile to the lake. NORWAY PASS You’ve probably seen a photo of the volcano taken from Norway Pass. It’s become the classic image over a deep bay of Spirit Lake to the steaming crater, 7 miles away. Norway Pass is a relatively easy 2-mile hike, with an 800-foot elevation gain, on a portion of Boundary Trail No. 1. Energetic hikers can continue as the trail climbs to Mount Margaret. The hike starts at the Norway Pass Trailhead on Road 26, which is 2 miles north of Road 99.

FORT TO SEA TRAIL Modern day explorers can hike a trail that’s close to the original route the Lewis and Clark Expedition followed from Fort Clatsop to the Pacific Ocean, west of Astoria, Ore. The Fort to Sea Trail winds for 6 miles through forest and pasture, ending up at a broad sandy beach that’s much like what Capt. William Clark and his men saw in 1807. GNAT CREEK Trails go both directions from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Gnat Creek Hatchery and Campground, which is 15 miles west of Clatskanie on Highway 30. The lower trail goes for 1 ¼ miles along the peaceful creek to a campground and another trailhead. From the hatchery, the upper trail climbs past waterfalls and passes through some old growth before dead-ending after about 2 miles.

A view from the east side of Mount St. Helens looking south at Mount Hood.

wildlife The forests and fields of the Lower Columbia region hold thousands of deer, elk and other wildlife. Grab your camera and binoculars and head to these hot spots.

MOUNT ST. HELENS WILDLIFE AREA

RIDGEFIELD NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

This Toutle River Valley site is one of the best places in the Lower Columbia region to view elk — and a good place for a summer hike. The area about 15 miles east of the town of Toutle, includes 6,500 acres ranging from mudflows on the valley floor to dense woods on surrounding slopes. In summer, a few hundred elk live in the wildlife area, and walking or riding a horse among them is allowed. Dogs are not. January through April, when the elk population can swell to more than 500, the area is closed to public access to prevent the elk from being disturbed. Any time of year, you can see the elk with binoculars from the Weyerhaeuser visitor center at Milepost 33.5 on Spirit Lake Memorial Highway. Walk-in access is via the 3100 logging road at Milepost 31 of the highway. It’s about a 700-foot drop into the area — so save some energy for the climb back out. >> wdfw.wa.gov

The 5,218-acre Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge is a bird-watcher’s paradise, with up to 200,000 waterfowl spending the winter there. Many other species, from sandhill cranes to sparrows, can be seen, too. The refuge has two hiking trails and a designated driving route. There’s also an authentic reproduction of a Chinook Indian plankhouse, much like the ones Lewis and Clark saw. It’s open on summer weekends. To reach the refuge, take Exit 14 from I-5 and head west 2.7 miles to the town of Ridgefield. Turn left on South Ninth Avenue, following the signs for the refuge’s River S Unit. Admission costs $3. >> fws.gov/ridgefieldrefuges

WHITE-TAILED DEER REFUGE

JEWELL MEADOWS

The Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-Tailed Deer totals more than 6,000 acres of pasture, tidal swamps and sloughs along the Columbia River between Cathlamet and Skamokawa. The refuge’s main purpose is to provide a sanctuary for Columbian white-tailed deer, which are listed as endangered on the federal Endangered Species List. You might get a glimpse of the small deer, though an ongoing program of tree planting gives the animals better cover and many have been moved to the Ridgefield refuge to ensure their safety if the Hansen refuge floods. Limited hunting has reduced the elk population to around 25, far fewer than in past years, though there are more than 60 species of birds. The best way to visit is to drive or ride bikes on the peaceful roads that ring the refuge. One along the Columbia River washed out several years ago and won’t be rebuilt, so check at refuge headquarters to see what’s open. The national wildlife refuge is 2 miles west of Cathlamet on Highway 4. >> fws.gov/jbh

The Jewell Meadows wildlife area managed by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife is a great place to admire elk, especially during winter. The ODFW takes care of more than 200 Roosevelt elk at the 2,940-acre wildlife area, which is about a one-hour drive from Longview. The site has four viewing areas with parking and picnic tables off of Highway 202. To reach the refuge, take Highway 30 west from Rainier for 16 miles to Clatskanie. Head uphill on Highway 47 for 11 miles to Mist. Go west on Highway 202 for 17 miles to Jewell, then another mile on 202 to the refuge.

local rivers

The Cowlitz River may cut through the county of the same name, but not much of it can be easily seen from roads. The best place to stroll along the Cowlitz is near Castle Rock, where broad, mostly paved trails follow both sides of the river. Aptly named Riverside Park in Lexington has some river footage, as does the Cook Ferry Trail near Castle Rock. In Kelso, a riverfront trail follows the Cowlitz for nearly 2 miles, though access is limited. (See more on local mountain biking trails on Page 22.) Longview’s Gerhart Gardens Park off Tennant Way (Highway 432) has a short river beach, which gets larger when the river drops in summer, exposing more sand.

Clockwise from left, fish the Kalama, see the covered bridge on the Grays and kayak the Lewis.

The Kalama is arguably the region’s prettiest river — and the one with the most public access. A public trail follows the river’s lower mile or so in the Kalama industrial area, off Hendrickson Road. To reach other scenic spots, just drive up Kalama River Road, where a boat launch and well-worn anglers’ trails offer access. Gifford Pinchot National Forest Trail No. 238 follows the upper few miles of the river, north of Cougar. It’s accessed from Forest Service Road 81. Explorers can walk into an abandoned campground and find the Kalama’s source as it gurgles out of a natural spring. >> fs.usda.gov/main/giffordpinchot/home

This 95-mile long river starts on Mount Adams and flows east all the way to the Columbia near Woodland ... and much of its shores are accessible to the public. Driving Lewis River Road (Highway 503) from Woodland, you’ll come to a boat launch in about 5 miles. The lower Lewis has three dams that form huge reservoirs: Lake Merwin, Yale Reservoir and Swift Reservoir. All have picnic grounds and boat launches operated by PacifiCorp, which also operates four campgrounds. For information, see lewisriver. com. Above the reservoirs, the Lewis flows freely through the woods in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, over a series of gushing waterfalls.

It flows off Mount St. Helens and is often muddy, though several places along it make for pleasant summer meandering. The Toutle’s confluence with the Cowlitz is popular with anglers. Starting about 15 miles east of Castle Rock, Spirit Lake Memorial Highway follows the Toutle for a stretch or detour for several miles on South Toutle Road to Harry Gardner Park, where there’s access to the other side of the river. In summer, hikers, mountain bikers and horse riders can walk from Spirit Lake Highway about 2 miles down Road 3100, just east of the Hoffstadt Creek Bridge, to a wildlife refuge with more river access.

Sound it out: E-loke-o-man. It’s the hot spot in Wahkiakum County for salmon and steelhead anglers or for kayaking. Some of the best public access is near state fish hatcheries. The Beaver Creek Hatchery is about 6 miles up Elochoman River Road, with the Elochoman Hatchery another 4 miles upstream. The river flows into the Columbia at the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for Columbia White-Tailed Deer, a few miles west of Cathlamet on Highway 4.

Tucked away in western Wahkiakum County you’ll find the only covered bridge in Washington still in use. Grays River is about 42 miles west of Longview on Ocean Beach Highway. Shortly after crossing the Grays on the highway bridge, turn left on Loop Road to reach the covered bridge and the lower section of the Grays. Back roads wind along the lower Grays to where it flows into the Columbia. From the highway, Shannon Road heads north for a few miles along the river to a fish hatchery.

More stories and photos about these unique rivers at TDN.com/rivers

Grab some tubes and jump in our rivers for More in the Castle rock area, see page 40

local rivers

Pacific Salmon Charters

“Fish with the Friendly Fleet”

Discover some of the World’s Best Fishing . . . • Salmon • Bottom Fish • Halibut • Bait and Tackle Furnished • Tuna

2.6 Million Salmon Forecasted For 2014. Largest Run Since 1938 Call Early For Reservations TOLL FREE

1-800-831-2695 PO BOX 519 ILWACO, WA 98624 On the Long Beach Peninsula

ZZZ SDFLÀFVDOPRQFKDUWHUV FRP

Fishing flows through the soul of the Lower Columbia region. Here’s a sampling of fish just dying to leap at your lure.

Chinook salmon return to the Columbia River in three annual runs. Spring chinook come primarily March through May, the summer run follows in June and July, and the fall chinook come mostly in August and September. Coho salmon return to the rivers primarily August through November. Ocean salmon seasons vary from region to region, starting as early as May in places. Seasons usually last until at least Labor Day.

These fish grow to monstrous proportions (the minimum size legal to keep is 38 inches to the fork). Unlike salmon and steelhead, sturgeon in the lower Columbia River are self-sustaining, with none planted from hatcheries. This year will be the last when anglers are allowed to keep sturgeon because of the declining numbers of fish. The sturgeon seasons are different upstream and downstream of the Wauna power lines near Cathlamet. For the latest regulations, check with a tackle shop or at wdfw.wa.gov. Anglers who have boats do the best. If you don’t have your own, guides and lower river charter boat operators will be happy to take you. Sturgeon also are caught by anglers casting from shore. Many try their luck from the side of Ocean Beach Highway west of Longview. The Columbia River near Megler, along Highway 401, is also popular with bank anglers.

Though similar to salmon, steelhead are actually rainbow trout that spend most of their lives in the ocean. They reach upward of 20 pounds when they return to spawn. Local rivers, including the Cowlitz, Lewis, Kalama, Woodland and Elochoman are among those favored by steelhead anglers. The mainstem Columbia also is a major source of steelhead. They swim upstream in a winter run that starts in November and runs into April, and a summer run comes from May into August.

These aren’t nearly as big a deal around here as they are farther east. But Cowlitz County’s Silver Lake is often called the best bass water in Western Washington. It annually produces some of the biggest largemouth caught anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. The best bass fishing there is in the spring, though the lake is open year-round. Other warmwater fish that can be caught in Silver Lake are crappie, bluegill, catfish and perch.

The Department of Fish and Wildlife plants hundreds of thousands of rainbow and brown trout in area lakes in the spring and early summer. Trout-stocked lakes are a good place to introduce small fry of the human variety to fishing. Some of the most popular local lakes are Sacajawea in Longview, Kress near Kalama and Horseshoe in Woodland. Swift Reservoir near Cougar also gets planted heavily.

Fish nearly year-round on the Kalama

bike & skate

mountain bike trails COLDWATER LAKES TRAIL

The trail following the west side of Coldwater Lake has been in place since the 1980s. In 2012, it opened to mountain bikes. The portion of Lakes Trail 211 open to bikes goes about 5 miles along the lake, which narrows to a pretty fjord-like canyon at its upper end. Mountain bikers are also allowed on the 230A trail on the east side of Coldwater Lake.

CASTLE ROCK TRAILS The Westside Riverfront Trail starts at the North County Recreation Facilities. A paved trail zips past the boat launch, then becomes gravel as it passes under the highway. The trail continues south past the Castle Rock Fairgrounds, crosses Whittle Creek on a 55-foot-long metal bridge, and leads to a network of old dirt roads. On the east side of the river is a paved walking path (see more about it on Page 40) and a park for mountain bikers to practice their skills. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s linked to a network of rough trails on dredge spoils north of town.

PACIFIC WAY TRAIL This dike-top path winds more than 2 miles in West Longview, parallel to Pacific Way. A good place to enter it from is the Longview United Methodist Church parking lot at 30th and Pacific Way. March through July, waterfowl nest along the path. About a mile from the start, you come to 38th Avenue. The path continues a few hundred yards and then hits the Mint Valley Golf Course. By riding on Pacific Way, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to pick up the trail again west of 42nd Street and continue to Coal Creek Road.

COOK FERRY TRAIL The 2.5-mile Cook Ferry Trail meanders along the west side of the Cowlitz south of Castle Rock, never far from Cook Ferry Road. The 8-foot-wide gravel trail is served by three parking lots, each named after a fish that populates the Cowlitz. To reach the southernmost lot, named Chinook, drive one-third mile along Cook Ferry Road from West Side Highway. Midway is the Steelhead parking lot, which has a composting toilet. The trail ends at the Smelt lot, which is accessible by Camelot Drive.

Kelso Rotary Skate Park is a 10,000-square-foot concrete structure in a small park at the corner of Minor Road and Burcham Street in North Kelso. From I-5 Exit 39 (Allen Street) take the east frontage road (Kelso Drive) north for one block. Woodland Skate Park in Horseshoe Lake Park has a variety of steps and ramps. From Exit 21 of I-5, head west a block to Lakeshore Drive and turn left.

Cloney Skate Park on Washington Way in Longview includes a spine, pyramid, 6-foot quarter pipe and snake run. Winlock Skate Park is next to Winlock Miller Elementary School. Rainier Skate Park is on West A Street along the Columbia River. It features pre-fab structures atop blacktop. Castle Rock Skate Park is along the Eastside Riverfront Trail, at the end of Third Avenue.

OFF

New and Special Order Books

Largest Selection of Used Books in Cowlitz County! /FX t 6TFE t $ISJTUJBO t )BSECBDL t 1BQFSCBDL

470424

skate parks

PAPERBACKS

galore

1044 14th Avenue, Longview

(360) 423-9006

NOW Open! Walkins Welcome Clean & Classy WK $YH Â&#x2021; /RQJYLHZ

360 431-9133

Masthead RestauRant Good Food & Fine ales since 1971

LEWIS RIVER TRAIL 31 One of the most popular trails in Southwest Washington, Lewis River Trail 31 is known as â&#x20AC;&#x153;the roller coasterâ&#x20AC;? because of its end-to-end undulations. The trail parallels the river, traveling through luxuriant oldgrowth forest and offering eye-popping canyon views. Leave one car at the lower trail head off Road 9030 and take another to the Lower Falls Campground, farther up Road 90. Directions: From Interstate 5, take Lewis River Road (SR 503) east from Woodland 52.3 miles to Road 9039. Take a left on 9039 and drive 0.8 to the lower trailhead, just before the river crossing.

APE CANYON TRAIL 234 This adventure opens with spectacular views of the Muddy River Lahar that rolled down the southeast side of Mount St. Helens during the 1980 eruption, then climbs through old-growth forest. The ascent ends at Ape Canyon, which offers broad vistas of Mount Adams and the Smith Creek Basin. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 9.5 miles to a series of wooden steps, which are a turning-around point. Another 2 miles on a logging road will take you to the Windy Ridge viewpoint. Directions: From Interstate 5, take the Lewis River Road (503) east from Woodland for 34 miles to Road 83. Go 11 miles on Road 83 to the Ape Canyon trailhead.

â&#x20AC;˘13 specialty salads â&#x20AC;˘16 awesome Burgers â&#x20AC;˘halibut Fish & Chips â&#x20AC;˘16 Beers on tap â&#x20AC;˘Outdoor dining

Voted Best Local Restaurant nine Years Running www.MastheadRestaurant.com 1210 Ocean Beach hwy. Longview â&#x20AC;˘ 577-7972

454272

road biking KALAMA RIVER ROAD The ride on this emerald river is relatively easy and offers scenic river views. However, the winding road has narrow shoulders in places, so it’s not a good place for children to ride. Start at the gravel park-and-ride just south of the intersection at Kalama River Road and Old Pacific Highway South. Travel east up Kalama River Road for 10 miles and turn around where the pavement ends, at the Weyerhaeuser gate.

TOWER ROAD LOOP A great workout, this 30-mile loop travels up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway. Low traffic and rolling hills make this ride enjoyable, and the scenery is nice. The highway has good road shoulders, although Tower Road, which gets less traffic, isn’t as wide. The ride begins at the park-and-ride west of I-5 at Exit 49. Ride east on Spirit Lake Memorial Highway to Tower Road, and turn left. Tower Road loops around back to Spirit Lake Highway, at which point riders will travel right to go back to the park and ride.

wanna race? Seattle-to-Portland Bicycle Classic: This is the 34th year cycling enthusiasts have been riding the STP’s 200-mile span between the cities. Up to 10,000 participants make the journey each year; this year’s race, July 12-13 , is officially sold out, though it may be possible to register. >> Cascade.org

Tour de Blast: The newer and local race climbs from Toutle Lake High School’s parking lot up Mount St. Helens as far as Johnston Ridge viewpoint — 82 miles. However, beginning or intermediate cyclists can choose shorter rides at 33 or 54 miles. The race has been moved to September in hopes of prime weather — Sept. 13 this year. >> Tourdeblast.com

LEXINGTON-HEADQUARTERS road This quick, rejuvenating 10-mile ride is great when you’re short on time. The ride features moderate, rolling hills and low traffic on roads with good shoulders. Start at Riverside Park off of West Side Highway and travel south to Sparks Drive. Travel over the I-5 overpass to Old Pacific Highway and turn left to go north. At Headquarters Road, turn left, re-cross I-5, and then go left on Pleasant Hill Road and back to Old Pacific Highway North. Back at Sparks Drive, turn right over I-5 to West Side Highway and back to Riverside Park.

COAL CREEK-DELAMETER LOOP

CASTLE ROCK-TOLEDO

This 26-mile loop is not for the weak of thigh. It offers several climbs and descents with some rolling hills. However, it’s a scenic ride and traffic is low to moderate. Start at Willow Grove Park. Turn right out of the park on Willow Grove Road, then left on Willow Grove Connection Road to Dike Road (or continue on to complete the 6-mile ride Willow Grove loop). Cross Ocean Beach Highway to continue on Coal Creek Road, right to Woodside Drive and on to Delameter Road, then to Garlock. Turn right on Garlock to Hazel Dell Road, and turn left. Ride to Delameter Road, and take a left back on to Delameter Road to where you started.

This is a relatively flat ride suitable for all ride levels. Bikers can choose the length, going as far as they choose; the ride described here is about 28 miles. Nice road shoulders most of the way and low traffic add to the ride’s ease. Begin at the parkand-ride at Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, on the west side of I-5. Ride right out of the parking lot to the second light and turn right onto Old Pacific Highway North to Barnes Road to Gee Gee’s Truck Stop. Pedal over I-5 to Jackson Highway, turn left to Ray Park just south of Toledo.

LEXINGTON-SPIRIT LAKEHEADQUARTERS This fun 28-mile loop is filled with beautiful valley views and long, gradual climbs. Some rolling hills and a swift decent on Headquarters Road. Begin at Riverside Park in Lexington, off West Side Highway north of Kelso. Pedal over I-5 on Sparks Drive to Old Pacific Highway North, turn left to Bond Road. Go to Powell and turn left, then take an immediate right on Dorothy to Spirit Lake Memorial Highway. Go to South Silver Lake Road, turn right on South Silver Lake Road and travel until Davis Spur. Take Davis Spur to Headquarters Road and turn right. Enjoy the ride down Headquarters.

For more, check out these local bike shops: Bob’s Bike Shop is at 1111 Hudson St. in Longview. 360-425-8520 Canyonview Cyclery is at 1051 14th Ave. in Longview. 360-200-5550

art & music The area’s visual beauty isn’t just mountains and rivers. Statues and stained glass perk up the local landscape, and local artists display their works in many galleries and businesses.

ART GALLERIES Broadway Gallery: This cooperative gallery shows the works of its 30 members. Hours: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 10 a.m.- 2 p.m. Saturdays. 1418 Commerce Ave., Longview. Broderick Gallery: Works from England, Cuba and South Africa along with owner George Broderick’s paintings. 1416 Commerce Ave. Hours: 10 a.m. -5 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. broderickgallery.com. Longview Public Library: The Koth Gallery features exhibits 26

of works by local artists fall through spring. Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Thursdays- Saturdays. 1600 Louisiana St. McThreads Wearable Art Boutique: Handmade jewelry and fiber art by Linda McCord. Hours: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. TuesdaysWednesday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Thursdays or by appointment. 1206 Broadway. >> mcthreadswearableart.com

Lower Columbia College Art Gallery: Exhibits by visiting

artists through the school year. Hours: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Mondays-Tuesdays, 10 a.m.- 4 p.m. Wednesdays-Thursdays. In LCC Rose Center. Teague’s Interiors: Longview decorating business features regular exhibits. 1267 Commerce Ave., Longview. Tsuga Gallery: Work from more than 30 local artists. 70 Main St., Cathlamet. Hours: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Thursdays through Saturdays and noon- 4 p.m. Sundays.

COMMERCE AVENUE SCULPTURES In 2013, nine sculptures were installed along four blocks of Commerce Avenue centered on Broadway, joining several others that had been there since 2011. Guided tours are given in conjunction with First Thursday events at the Broadway Gallery.

Grab your six-string and head out to the Mount St. Helens Bluegrass Festival in Toledo, Aug. 8-10

Concerts at the Lake This year’s lineup for concerts at Lake Sacajawea in Longview includes tributes to Johnny Cash and The Cars, as well as country, blues and rock acts. Concerts run from 6 to 8 p.m. Thursdays at Martin Dock, where listeners may set up lawn chairs. Service clubs provide limited food and people bring their own picnics. July 10: Folsom Prism, modern look and tribute to Johnny Cash. July 17: Shake It Up, Cars tribute and ’70s and ’80s rock hits. July 24: Elliot Randall & the Deadmen, Americana/country. July 31: The Twangshifters, rockabilly, blues and rock and roll. Aug. 7: Daniel Kirkpatrick & the Bayonets, rock and roll. Aug. 14: Ants In the Kitchen, blues, soul and rock and roll.

LCC ROSE CENTER

COLUMBIA THEATRE

The building features a 525-seat auditorium, a 125-seat theater, a rehearsal hall and an art gallery. It offers sweeping expanses of wood paneling and a mural by nationally recognized painter Lucinda Parker in the lobby. The Wollenberg Auditorium is considered the best hall for music performance in Southwest Washington, with state-of-the-art acoustics that can be adjusted by moving overhead panels. The smaller, 125-seat Center Stage auditorium for plays has a “thrust” configuration, with seats on three sides of the stage.

This is one of the area’s foremost architectural gems, built in 1925 and renovated in 2009. With its Italian Renaissance style, chandeliers and intricate ornamentation and grillwork, what is now the Columbia Theatre for the Performing Arts represents the elegance of an era long past. >> columbiatheatre.com

wine & golf Like a fast-growing vine, wineries are sprouting in Southwest Washington. More than simple places to swirl samples near the wine barrels, the wineries range from rustic to elegant. Some have live music and events. Roland Wines’ tasting room occupies an old gas station at 3424 Columbia Heights Rd. in Longview. Tastings typically include four pours: Rose de Soleia, a dry rose made from the sangiovese grape; Dolcetto, a light and fruity red; La Chanson de Roland, a blend of merlot, cabernet and cabernet franc grapes; and Solstice Syrah. 5 to 8 p.m. Wednesdays and 1 to 5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. >> Rolandwines.com Harmony Wines focuses on locally grown, organic fruit such as berries and cherries. The winery also produces three whites: pinot gris from the Cowlitz Bar vineyard on West Side Highway, chardonnay and Gewurztraminer. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. daily. 555 Kroll Rd., Castle Rock. >> Harmonywineswa.com Mount St. Helens Cellars is at the Crossroads Plaza, 1254 Mount St. Helens Way, at I-5 Exit 49 in Castle Rock. Several of its wines have volcano- oriented names, such as Spirit Lake Coldwater Riesling, Dog’s Head Red and Kick Ash Red. Noon- 6 p.m. Fridays-Sundays. >> Mtsthelenscellars.com Capstone Cellars has been making wine since 2003; the vintages are often served at local events. Tastings can be arranged by contacting the winemakers. 4305 Pacific Way, Longview >> Capstonecellars.com

Bethany Vineyard is an oasis of elegance in the rolling hills a few miles east of the I-5 Ridgefield exit. Visitors can sit outside by a small lake; concerts with catered dinners are sometimes held there. The winery grows 18 varieties of grapes and purchases three grown in the Columbia River Gorge. Noon-6 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and noon-5 p.m. Sundays. 4115 NE 259th St., Ridgefield. >> Bethanyvineyard.com Heisen House has a rustic feel, with the tasting room in a converted milking parlor with open walls. Nearby sits the 1898 farmhouse where the winery’s owners live. They sometimes have bands inside the old renovated barn during tastings. The wines served include a dry muscat, a dry rose and tempranillo, a hearty Spanish red. Noon-5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. 28005 NE 172nd Ave., Battle Ground. >> Heisenhousevineyards.com Rusty Grape — actually a cafe — can be a cozy place on a Friday night. Even in winter, the room features live music, pizza and tastings from the wineries’ nine varieties. In summer months, sippers can sit outside and watch movies. It features a blackberry Port. With its mini-restaurant, the winery is open from 4-9 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, noon-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and noon-6 p.m. Sundays. 16712 N.E. 219th St., Battle Ground. >> Rustygrape.com

THREE RIVERS GOLF COURSE 2222 S. River Road, Kelso Public; Daily rate: $32 for 18 holes; $27 for seniors. Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor, food.

LONGVIEW COUNTRY CLUB 41 Country Club Drive, Longview Private Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, banquet facility, liquor, food.

>> Threeriversgolfcourse.com

>> Longviewcountryclub.net

MINT VALLEY GOLF COURSE 4002 Pennsylvania St., Longview Public; Weekends $35, $24 after noon. Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor, food. >> Mint-valley.com

COME SEE WHAT EVERYONEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TALKING ABOUT s .%7 -ANAGEMENT N EW s .%7 2ANGE "ALLS s .%7 #ARTS 0RO 3HOP s 2ESTAURANT 2ENOVATION

A WHOLE NEW LOOK & FEEL! 3OUTHWEST 7ASHINGTON S $RIEST 'OLF #OURSE "59 /.% (/,% 2/5.$ LEWIS RIVER GOLF 3209 Lewis River Rd., Woodland Public; $35 weekdays and $45 weekends/holidays for 18 holes; $30 weekdays and $45 weekends/holidays for seniors and juniors. Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, banquet facility, liquor, food. >> Lewisrivergolf.com

SKYLINE GOLF COURSE 20 Randall Drive, Cathlamet Public; Features: Golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor, food.

SURFSIDE GOLF COURSE 31508 J Place, Ocean Park Public; $18 for 9 holes and $32 for 18 holes; seniors $15 for 9 holes and $28 for 18 holes Monday through Thursday; juniors $10 Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor, food. >> Surfsidegolfcourse.com

GET A SECOND ROUND FREE

/FFER GOOD AFTER PM WITH COUPON

0ROUDLY OWNED BY +ELSO ,ONGVIEW %LKS s "0/% 3 2IVER 2D s +ELSO 7!

360.423.4653 29

festivals

Almost every summer weekend, a family-oriented community festival is going on somewhere in the Lower Columbia area. So plan your excursions to watch everything from frog-jumping to fireworks. And the best part: Most are free.

Music on the Mountain concert series June 28 Science! July 26 Cody Beebe and the Crooks Aug. 30 Daniel Kirkpatrick

JUNE June 5: Thirteen Nights on the River in Columbia View Park in St. Helens. Every Thursday through Aug. 28. >> sccchamber.org June 7: Annual International Festival at the Cowlitz County Expo Center in Longview. >> ethnicsupportcouncil.org

June 14: Waikiki Beach Concert Series at Cape Disappointment State Park. Free concerts every other Saturday through Aug. 23. >> funbeach.com

June 13-29: Annual Astoria Festival of Music. >> astoriamusicfestival.org

June 14: Annual Beach Chowder Run/Walk in Long Beach. >> funbeach.com 30

June 14-15: Annual Northwest Garlic Festival in Ocean Park. >> opwa.com June 19-22: Woodland Planter’s Days with parade, rides, frog-jumping contest and classic car show. >> lewisriver.com/plantersdays June 20-22: Scandinavian Midsummer Festival at Clatsop County Fairgrounds. >> astoriascanfest.com

June 21: Annual Kiwanis Parade in St. Helens. >> sccchamber.org

June 27-28: Winlock Egg Days in Winlock. June 27-28: Doggie Olympic Games in Long Beach. >> funbeach.com June 28: Heritage Days Cruise Car Show at Clatskanie City Park. >> clatskanie.org/cruisers.html

JULY July 2-4: Go 4th Celebration in Longview with parade, street fair, kids activities and fireworks. >> gofourthfestival.org

July 2: Annual Great Cardboard Boat Regatta at Lake Sacajawea in Longview; 2014 theme is “Sports.” July 4: Clatskanie Heritage Days Festival and 4th of July Parade. July 4: Old Fashioned 4th of July Parade in Ocean Park. >> funbeach.com July 4: Independence Day Fireworks on the Beach in Long Beach. >> funbeach.com July 4-5: 4th of July celebration in St. Helens. >> sccchamber.org

Clockwise from left, check out the Mount St. Helens Bluegrass Festival in Toledo, Aug. 8-10; Longviewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Go 4th celebration includes a log-rolling competition; and Thunder Mountain Pro Rodeo takes place during the Cowlitz County Fair, July 25-27. July 4: Fourth of July Parade in Warrenton and Astoria. >> oldoregon.com July 4: Vernonia parade and fireworks. >> vernoniachamber.org

July 5: Independence Day Fireworks at the Port of Ilwaco. >> funbeach.com July 9-13: Toledo Cheese Days. July 10-13: Rainier Days in the Park. >> rainierdaysinthepark.com

July 10-Sept. 13: Shanghaied in Astoria at Astor Street Opry Company Playhouse. >> seasideor.com July 11-13: Annual Winlock Pickers Fest at Winolequa Park. >> winlockpickersfest.com July 12: Kalama River-to-River Run Challenge. July 16-20: Annual SandSations and City

SandSations in Long Beach. >> funbeach.com July 16-20: Columbia County Fair and Rodeo in St. Helens. >> columbiacountyfairgrounds.com July 17-19: Castle Rock Fair, with parade, vendors, youth activities, music and more, at Castle Rock Fairgrounds. July 18-20: Kalama Community Fair and Parade. July 18-20: Napavine Funtime Festival with parade and car show. July 19-20: Clamshell Rail Road Days at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum in Ilwaco. >> funbeach.com

July 19-20: Bald Eagle Days in Cathlamet with parade, trolley rides and street fair. >> wahkiakumchamber.com

July 19: Music in the Gardens on the Long Beach Peninsula. >> funbeach.com July 20: Wooden Boat Show in Cathlamet. July 24-27: Cowlitz County Fair and Rodeo at the fairgrounds in Longview. >> cowlitzcountyfair.com July 25-27: Maritime Heritage Festival at the marina in St. Helens. July 25-27: Finnish American Folk Festival, a festival that is held every other year in Naselle. July 26-27: Annual Long Beach Rodeo, Peninsula Saddle Club in Long Beach. >> funbeach.com July 26: Run to the Rock Car Show, Castle Rock. July 28: Mountain Mania Fun Run, Castle Rock. July 29-Aug. 2: Clatsop County Fair at the fairgrounds in Astoria. >> clatsopfairgrounds.com 31

festivals

Hop on over to the beloved frogjumping contest at Toledo Cheese Days, July 9-13.

From top, roll on over to the Cathlamet Corral longboard races Aug. 8-10, Great Cardboard Boat Regatta at Lake Sacajawea on July 2 in Longview and see the Cowlitz Indian Pow Wow on Sept. 20 at Toledo High School.

AUGUST Aug. 1-2: Oregon Tuna Classic in Ilwaco. >> funbeach.com Aug. 1-3: Annual Vernonia Friendship Jamboree and Logging Show. >> vernoniachamber.org Aug. 1-3: Clatskanie Bluegrass Festival at Clatskanie City Park. >> clatskaniebluegrassfestival.wordpress.com

Aug. 1-10: Clark County Fair at fairgrounds in Ridgefield. >> clarkcofair.com Aug. 2: Kalama Blues Festival. Aug. 6-10: Astoria Regatta Maritime Magic in Astoria. >> astoriaregatta.org Aug. 7-10: Annual Loggers Jubilee in Morton. >> loggersjubilee.com 32

Aug. 8-10: Cathlamet Corral, annual longboard races in Cathlamet. >> wahkiakumchamber.com Aug.8-10: Mount St. Helens Bluegrass Festival in Toledo. >> washingtonbluegrassassociation.org/2014fest

Aug. 8-10: Annual Seaside beach volleyball tournament. >> seasidebeachvolleyball.com Aug. 12-17: Southwest Washington Fair in Chehalis. >> southwestwashingtonfair.net Aug. 14-16: Wahkiakum County Fair at the Wahkiakum County Fairgrounds in Skamokawa. Aug. 15-16: Blues & Seafood in Ilwaco. >> funbeach.com Aug. 16: Longview Squirrelfest at the Civic Center. >> facebook.com/LVSquirrelfest

Aug. 17: Untouchables Car show in Kalama. Aug. 17: Annual Jazz and Oysters celebration in Oysterville. >> funbeach.com Aug 18-24: Washington State International Kite Festival in Long Beach. >> funbeach.com Aug. 22-24: Chehalis Garlic Fest and Craft Show. >> chehalisgarlicfest.com

Aug. 23: Hood-To-Coast Relay starting at Mount Hood, ending in Seaside seasideor.com Aug. 23: Hub City Car Show in Centralia. >> chamberway.com

Aug. 23: Annual Unique Tin Car Show and Swap Meet with controlled cruise to follow in Longview. >> uniquetin.com

Aug. 23: Annual Wings & Wheels 2014 at Scappoose Industrial Air Park. >> sccchamber.org Aug. 23-24: Threshing Bee, an old-time tractor pull in Toledo. Aug. 30: Buzzardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Breath Chili Cook-off at the Elochoman Slough Marina in Cathlamet. >> wahkiakumchamber.com

Aug. 30: Annual Chinook Art Festival. >> funbeach.com Aug. 30-Sept. 1: Civil War re-enactment at Fort Stevens State Park. >> visitftstevens.com

Sept. 5: Slow Drag at the Port of Ilwaco. >> funbeach.com

Sept. 6-7: Rod Run to the End of the World car show in Ocean Park. >> funbeach.com Sept. 13-14: Highlander Festival in Kelso. kelso.gov/visitors/highlander-festival Sept. 20: Cowlitz Indian Pow Wow at Toledo High School. Sept. 20: Annual Scappoose Sauerkraut Festival. >> scappoosecommunity.org

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

Sept. 4-7: Wheels and Waves Car Show in Seaside. >> seasideor.com

Oct. 1-Nov. 15: Wild Mushroom Celebration on the Long Beach Peninsula. >> funbeach.com

Oct. 3-4: Columbia River Country Days, at various locations around Wahkiakum County, to include a slow-moving parade, pie social, farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market and Grays River Covered Bridge auction and dinner. Oct 11-12: Annual Cranberrian Fair at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum and Cranberry Museum on the Long Beach Peninsula. >> funbeach.com Oct. 11-12: One Sky, One World Kite Festival in Long Beach. Oct. 10-13: Peninsula Art Association Fall Show in Long Beach. >> funbeach.com Oct. 17-18: Water Music Festival consists of three concerts. >> watermusicfestival.com 33

longview

A cluster of historic buildings around Longview’s Civic Center and on nearby Commerce Avenue are among the city’s attractions. But make sure to play in the city’s parks. Lake Sacajawea Park is to Longview what Central Park is to New York City. This long, skinny body of water with its broad, green lawns is the place to be when the sun is shining. Its 4-mile graveled path is the best route in town to walk or run. Trout are stocked in the lake, making it attractive for young folks with fishing poles. Its 60 acres hold no less than 119 species of trees. In the fall, the leaf colors shouldn’t be missed. Neither should the beautiful Japanese Gardens at the north end of the park and the Solar System Walk, created by the local astronomy club. Willow Grove Park is a favorite site for launching boats on the Columbia River, swimming and picnicking. On summer evenings, kiteboarders can be seen, too. The 60-acre park boasts picnic tables, fire rings, a mile-long asphalt trail, a beach volleyball area and miles of scenery. The park is open 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. in summer. To reach it from Ocean Beach Highway, turn south onto Willow Grove Connector Road and then right onto Willow Grove Road. Gerhart Gardens Park is a 14-acre park on the Cowlitz River that’s popular on hot summer days, when the river level drops to expose broad sandy beaches. Families can enjoy using the picnic tables, horseshoe pits, basketball hoops, sand volleyball court and playground equipment. There’s also a boat ramp. Gerhart Gardens is the home of the city’s only off-leash dog park, a three-acre, fenced area at the entrance to the park. The park is at 200 Freedom Rd., off of Tennant Way, just west of I-5 Exit 36. Longview Civic Circle makes its way around R.A. Long Park, passing the historic Longview Public Library, Monticello Hotel and post office. The circle was designed as part of R.A. Long’s planned city, pointing travelers to downtown, the industrial area and residential areas. You can reach the circle by taking 15th Avenue to Washington Way. Head west on Washington Way and follow the circle around. 34

HISTORY Longview was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 because it’s one of the nation’s few planned industrial cities. Several downtown buildings were named to the register, including the Columbia Theatre for the Performing Arts and the Big Four Furniture Building at 1329 Commerce Ave., built in 1924 and now a restaurant. The Columbia River Mercantile, at the corner of Commerce Avenue and Broadway, functioned as Longview’s first store and as the headquarters of the Long-Bell Lumber Co. when it was built in 1923. It’s been restored to resemble what it looked like in the city’s early days. Inside are gift shops and a restaurant.

Catch a Cowlitz Black Bears game. This wood-bat summer league plays its home games at David Story Field in Longview. Tickets start at $6 to $8. >> cowlitzblackbears.com

Quality of Place

Longview...

where you can truly appreciate the beauty and splendor of the Pacific Northwest. Mint Valley Golf Course

That’s nuts!

One of Longview’s claims to fame is being home of the world’s first squirrel bridge, the Nutty Narrows Bridge. It was designed in 1963 to spare the life of spastic squirrels with a penchant for playing chicken. In recent years, the squirrel frenzy has spread: two more bridges have been installed on the streets near Lake Sacajawea. And Longview now boasts the annual Squirrel Fest, this year on Aug. 16.

shopping

Willow Grove Park

The Triangle Shopping Center, the busiest general-purpose shopping area in town, is by Ocean Beach Highway and 15th Avenue. It features Applebee’s restaurant, Ross Dress for Less, Michael’s, Lane Bryant and more. With dozens of independently owned businesses, downtown Longview boasts a lot of character. It’s a changing shopping scene, with new businesses springing up from time to time. The principal downtown intersection is Commerce and Broadway, which among other things has the Columbia River Mercantile, with gift shops, offices and a bakery. Stroll through downtown and you’ll find a pet store, a gallery, antique shops and restaurants. At 11th Avenue and Hudson Street is the homegrown Bob’s Sporting Goods, the largest outdoors store in the region.

Lake Sacajawea

Japanese Garden

Longview named one of the top ten prettiest towns in America by Forbes - March 29, 2012.

360.442.5004 www.mylongview.com 35

kelso

COWLITZ COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM

THREE RIVERS MALL

TAM O’SHANTER PARK

The Cowlitz County Historical Museum features permanent exhibits on the early days of this area, including an authentic pioneer cabin and replicas of a general store and logging bunkhouse. Special exhibits rotate through one hall — a current one focuses on the history of police in the county. A shop includes a good collection of books about regional history. The museum, 405 Allen Street, is open Tuesdays through Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is free; donations are welcome.

Kelso is home to Three Rivers Mall, the largest enclosed shopping mall in Cowlitz County. Next to I-5, the mall is anchored by Macy’s department store and J.C. Penney. The Kelso Public Library is housed in a 11,627-squarefoot space in the mall. Library hours are 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays and Tuesdays and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays. Restaurants and a movie theater are near the mall.

“Tam O,” as the locals say, is a 41-acre park along the Coweeman River. The park has several ball fields and basketball courts, not to mention horseshoe pits, a playground and picnic tables. Many people enjoy a walk or bike ride along the graveled path atop the park’s dike, which runs along the river. The park is the site of the annual Kelso Highlander Festival, pictured below. Grab your kilt, it’s Sept. 13-14 this year. It’s also the site of Stan Rister Stadium, which seats 500 baseball enthusiasts.

>> www.co.cowlitz.wa.us/museum

A wee bit ’o history A thriving town before Longview was even built, Kelso’s history figures into several attractions. Scottish land surveyor Peter Crawford arrived in the Cowlitz Valley area in 1847 and registered the first donation land claim on the Cowlitz River. He founded the city of Kelso in 1884.

>> threeriversmall.com

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN The Kelso train station has been a longstanding centerpiece to downtown Kelso. The station was built in 1911 and renovated in 1996. The station, on First Avenue, has several shops and offices, as well as a place to wait for Amtrak trains. Nearby is Kelso City Hall, which features a lofty lobby and historical artifacts from town, such as a giant wheel-lift from the old Allen Street Bridge and an antique stained-glass window from Peter’s Restaurant, which used to be across the street and has now reopened as a barbecue restaurant. Downtown businesses include Cost Less Auto Parts, several taverns, a Mexican restaurant and the Kelso Theater Pub. The theater shows movies that tend to get overlooked by the local cineplexes and serves beer, wine and pizza.

Catlin Rotary Spray Park at the corner of Cowlitz Way and Main Street. Open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

470333

Highlander Festival is Sept. 13-14 this year

Catch some air at Rotary Skate Park at east of Interstate 5 off of Burcham Street

Complimentary Continental Breakfast with Fresh Waffles Free Wireless Internet • Guest Laundry Elevator • Exercise Room • DVD Players • Heated Indoor Pool & Spa Jacuzzi & Family Suites • Full Kitchen & Kitchenette Easy Access I-5 • Near Mall Business Center • Meeting Room

360-414-5953 501 Three Rivers Drive, Kelso WA 98626 www.guesthousekelso@gmail.com

to Castle Rock, Silver Lake, Toutle, and Kid Valley

HEADQUARTERS

SERVING THE LOCAL COMMUNITY FOR 48 YEARS LOCALLY OWNED AND OPERATED MOST MAJOR INSURANCE ACCEPTED s SOUVENIRS s POSTCARDS s GIFTS

Castle Rock Pharmacy 117 1ST ST. SW, CASTLE ROCK 360-274-8211

Stop by on your way to

Mt. St. Helens s #HOWDER s &ISH s 3HRIMP s 3ALADS s &ULL 'ROCERY s (OT $ELI s !4s (ANDMADE "URGERS s #OOPER S %XPRESS #HICKEN

DREW’S GROCERY xÎä{Ê-« À ÌÊ > iÊ ÜÞ°ÊUÊ/ ÕÌ iÊ 360-274-8920 38

s 3IX $IFFERENT "EERS ON 4AP s 'ROWLER &ILLS FROM TO s 7INE "EER 3PIRITS s 0LUS ,OCAL #RAFT $ISTILLERY 3PIRITS s -ETAL !RT FROM TO

UÊ Õ Ê Õ«Ã UÊ-«>V ÕÃÊ/i ÌÊ- ÌiÃ UÊ- ÜiÀÃ UÊ > «Ê Ê ÃÌ> } VÊ iÃÌi>` UÊ ÕÌiÃÊÌ Ê6 V> Ê ÌÌÀ>VÌ Ã UÊ ÃiÊÌ Ê Õ Ì }]Ê Ã }]Ê } UÊ7> ÊÌ Ê/ ÕÌ iÊ, ÛiÀÊ Õ`y Ü UÊ i>ÀLÞÊ,iÃÌ>ÕÀ> ÌÊ> `Ê-Ì Ài

ÎÈäÊ-« À ÌÊ > iÊ } Ü>ÞÊUÊ/ ÕÌ i]Ê7 Ê nÈ{

Reservations: (360) 274-9060 `Û> iÞJ > > >°V

470347

by local artists & authors

1254 Mt. St. Helens Way NE Castle Rock

1316A Mount St. Helens Way NE Castle Rock, just off exit 49

360-274-8583

Castle Rock 105 Cowlitz St. West, Castle Rock

Sat. 10:00am - 4:00pm Closed Sunday

...where plants are our passion

and a little help from us...

3UMMER (OURS AM PM (Subject to weather, please call ahead)

%NJOY RIVERVIEW DINING ON YOUR WAY TO -T 3T (ELENS MILES FROM ) VIA EXIT ON 3PIRIT ,AKE (WY

470350

Monday - Friday 10:00am - 5:30pm; Saturday - Sunday Mon.-Fri. 10:00am - 5:30pm 10:00am - 4:00pm

470349

360-274-4663

OVER 4000 BOLTS!

Nursery

s %LK "URGERS s 'OURMET "URGERS s 3OUPS AND 3ALADS s "ASKETS 3ANDWICHES s (OMEMADE #OBBLER s #HICKEN $UMPLINGS s "ELTIE "REW /RGANIC #OFFEE s 'IFTS AND 3OUVENIRS

360-274-8388

I-5 Exit 48, 1 mile West on Huntington, right on Buland

Welcome to Mt. St. Helens & Bigfoot Country! Come see the 22 ft. Bigfoot Statue in the parking Lot!

LARGE SELECTION OF BIGFOOT SOUVENIRS 3HIRTS s (ATS s 0OSTERS "OOKS s 3OUVENIR ITEMS

NORTH FORK SURVIVORS

MT. ST. HELENS GIFT ITEMS 4 SHIRTS s (ATS s -T 3T (ELENS 3PIRIT ,AKE (WY 4OUTLE 7! 360 274-6789 ART GLASS s $6$ S s #ERAMICS %XIT FROM ) THEN HEAD EAST 7E ARE LOCATED ON *EWELRY s 3OUVENIR ITEMS (WY AT MILEPOST ON THE RIGHT No Charge to Park RV or camp

470341

castle rock area

Zip into town Any trip to Castle Rock, the Gateway to Mount St. Helens, should begin with a hike up the 200-foot-high volcanic rock that gave this small town its name. The trail to The Rock starts at the west end of town at Lions Pride Park. After exploring the riverside town, head east to the Silver Lake and Toutle for more adventures — such as bass fishing and zip lining.

downtown

RIVERFRONT PATHS

play on the river

Castle Rock has dressed itself up in the past few years. One of the town’s main shopping streets has new, wide concrete sidewalks that are stamped and colored to look like the wooden planks that were common a century ago. The roadway is stamped and colored to resemble river rock, and the old-fashioned streetlights are designed to look good and brighten the area considerably. The city’s historic downtown features a wide variety of shops, antique stores, restaurants and other attractions.

Lions Pride Park, on Huntington Avenue South, serves as the trailhead for the east side of Castle Rock’s Riverfront Trail. The walking and biking trail takes visitors past The Rock and along the Cowlitz River. Trails are on both sides of the river. The trail on the east side is a 2-mile lighted, paved path that extends the length of town, passing a small playground and parks for skateboarders, BMX riders and mountain bikers. There are also two fishing piers. The gravel trail on the west side starts at PH10 bridge and goes south. There’s a paved path from PH10 bridge north to the Castle Rock Sports Complex.

Castle Rock also boasts the only fully developed public boat launch on the Cowlitz River between Toledo and Gerhart Gardens in Longview. The Al Helenberg Memorial Boat Launch opened in 2010 and has been improved since then. It’s welcomed by anglers who go after the river’s runs of spring chinook, fall chinook, coho and steelhead. The Castle Rock boat launch can be accessed through the North County Recreation Sports Complex, just south of the entrance to the high school.

silver lake & toutle

HARRY GARDNER PARK

Silver Lake, which is 5 miles east of Castle Rock on Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, is a good place for bass and warmwater fishing. Boats can be rented at resorts on the lake. Or explore Treehouse Island Zip Line Adventures on the lake. The tallest of the six lines is about 70 feet high, and zip liners can go up to 40 mph. It costs $99. >> thizla.com

A 17-acre park near the convergence of the Toutle River’s north and south forks opened several years ago after volunteers did much of the work building it. The area had been covered by mud by the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. It now has 11 RV camping sites and 11 for tents only. Overnight camping costs $20 for RVs and $15 for tents. On a sunny day, it’s a great place to wet one’s toes in the streams and soak up some rays.

Clockwise from top left, explore downtown Castle Rock shops, stroll the Riverwalk Trail at sunset and stop to smell the cornucopia of flowers blooming along city streets all summer. 41

kalama A distinctly Northwest town with an unusual name, Kalama is known for its antique shops, small-town friendliness and Hollywood movie shoots. Straddling Interstate 5 off of Exit 30, the town is named after John Kalama, a Hawaiian who hunted, fished and trapped in the area more than a century ago. CAMP AND FISH

ANTIQUES ABOUND

North of town, Camp Kalama offers yearround camping at the Kalama River. The Kalama River supports runs of steelhead and salmon, with relatively good public bank access. Nearby Kress Lake on Old Pacific Highway off of Kalama River Road is stocked with trout and surplus steelhead. During salmon seasons, anglers fish on the Columbia River banks and crowd the marina at the Port of Kalama.

Open seven days a week, several antique dealers offer a large selection of antiques and collectibles. Free maps of the city are available at all of Kalamaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stores.

Hang up the fishing pole and grab a tube! Float the Kalama River in summer. 42

PLENTY OF PARKS

‘TWILIGHT’ MOVIE SCENES

The Port of Kalama offers recreational facilities with a 222-slip marina, a five-acre day-use park and a two-mile walking path. A totem chanpole located at the marina park stands 140 feet tall and is listed in the “Guinness Book of World Records” as the tallest one-piece totem in the world. The park and marina are accessible by foot via a walking bridge over the railroad tracks at the south end of town. This year, a new port office that includes a historical museum will open.

Kalama High School, at 548 China Garden Rd., was used as the school in the vampire flick “Twilight.” The town’s functioning high school has become a popular destination for followers of the popular books and movies.

Clockwise from top left, the tallest one-piece totem in the world is in Kalama, put your boat in at the marina and stop at one of the city’s many antique shops.

woodland

Rich in historical charm and natural beauty, the town of Woodland is more than a jumping-off point for adventures in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Run through fields of tulips at the Holland America bulb farm, tour a famous estate filled with lilacs and relax at a lakeside park.

HULDA KLAGER LILAC GARDENS Smell the history — literally — at the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens. Its annual Lilac Festival — which showcases the fragrant purple, pink and white blossoms — is in April, and the gardens are open year-round. The Hulda Klager Lilac Garden is an arboretum with many flowers, shrubs and exotic trees in addition to lilacs. Klager’s Victorian-era home is on the National Register of Historic Sites and is open to visitors during special events. 115 South Pekin Road. Open to the public 365 days a year from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. daily, with a $2 fee. 44

HORSESHOE LAKE PARK THE HOLLAND AMERICA BULB FARM The farm was founded 30 years ago by Benno and Klazina Dobbe, who immigrated to the United States from the Netherlands. In season, the bulb farm’s gift shop sells all manner of bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, irises, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, alliums, scilla and other specialty varieties. 1066 South Pekin Rd. >> hollandamericabulbfarms.com

Located on the north side of the horseshoe-shaped lake is Horseshoe Lake Park, 6.5 acres of open lawn for field games, a playground, a beach, restrooms, a parking lot, skateboard park and a boat launch. Horseshoe Lake is open for swimming (no lifeguard on duty), fishing and boating (5 mph speed limit). The lake itself is 85 acres and has a maximum depth of 16 feet. It was created in 1940, when a bend in the river was isolated by freeway construction.

CEDAR CREEK GRIST MILL

RIVERFRONT RECREATION

Perched on a steep slope above the creek, the water-powered grinding mill was built in 1876 and used by families who brought grain to the mill to be ground into flour or livestock feed. Volunteers staff weekend activities, which feature events typical to the early 20th century. Tours can be arranged. Take exit 21 and head east, turning right to cross the North Fork of Lewis River. Turn left onto Northwest Hayes Road toward Amboy, which becomes Cedar Creek Road. About 8 miles from Woodland, a sign points left to the mill. Turn left on Grist Mill Road and the Mill is about 3/4 of a mile;

The Port of Woodland owns two parcels of undeveloped land along the Columbia River that are popular with anglers and picnickers. The 140-acre Austin Point parcel at the mouth of the Lewis River has half a mile of riverfront. The port owns another 160 acres at Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar. Both parcels are accessed from Woodland Dike Road. For more information about Woodland, visit the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chamber of Commerce and Visitor at 900 Goerig St. >> Woodlandwachamber.com

>> Cedarcreekgristmill.com. 45

columbia county

Sandy riverfront beaches, quiet back roads and a huge yew tree are among attractions in Columbia County, Ore. Visitors also can check out a kite boarding hot spot, a variety of trails, the largest Zen Buddhist monastery in the Northwest and what’s left of Oregon’s only nuclear power plant.

RAINIER

TROJAN PARK

COLUMBIA RIVER BEACHES

If you head into Rainier from the Lewis and Clark Bridge, you can explore an early river town. A white-columned, two-story city hall built in 1920 marks the center of town. The city’s spacious Riverfront Park at the west edge of town is a favorite for families. It has basketball and tennis courts, a skateboard park and a first-rate playground. It offers a close view of maritime activity at the Port of Longview. Nearby is a boat launch with restrooms and a large parking lot.

The area between Prescott Beach and the former Trojan Nuclear Power Plant offers large marshes and good bird watching. The 74-acre park at Trojan includes a 29-acre lake that is stocked with trout in spring, 200 acres of woods and wetlands, walking trails, ball fields, sheltered picnic areas, a volleyball court and a frisbee golf course. All facilities are open Memorial Day through Labor Day though people may walk through any time.

East of Rainier, Laurel Beach is a small but scenic day-use park that attracts anglers and bird watchers. Take Laurelwood Road about 1.5 miles south of town. You’ll have to walk up a rough path and over the railroad tracks, which are used by trains once or twice a day. Farther south on Highway 30, the site of Lewis and Clark’s campsite on Nov. 5, 1805, has been developed into an attractive park. The 71-acre Prescott Beach day-use park charges a small fee. You’ll also find a picnic shelter, playground equipment, gazebo, horseshoe pit and volleyball courts.

>> Portlandgeneral.com/parks

Learn to fly Jones Beach is 6 miles west of Clatskanie on Highway 30 off Woodson Road. The broad beach and gusty afternoon winds draw kiteboarders to the Columbia River from hundreds of miles around. The beach is used for fishing and picnicking. Or put your boat in just west of Clatskanie at the intersection of highways 30 and 47 at the Beaver Boat Ramp.

Columbia County Forests PARKS & RECREATION

You r Neighborhood Playgrou nd Columbia County is conveniently located less than an hour away from the Portland Metro area, Vancouver, Kelso and Longview, Washington. For the day, weekend or longer - enjoy World-Class Windsurfing, Fishing, Boating, Canoeing, Kayaking, Cycling, Rural Aviation, Historic Tours and much more. View nature up close, multitudes of birds and animals in their natural habitat, wildflowers and forests are daily recreational experiences at Columbia County’s full service parks system. 1. BEAVER BOAT RAMP & PARK

Hwy. 30 Clatskanie U.S. 30 and Hwy 47. Within the Clatskanie city limits. Paved parking, boat launch, rest rooms, picnic tables and barbecue grills.

2. BIG EDDY PARK

64555 Nehalem Hwy, N., Vernonia. Large fir trees, open play ground, fishing, canoeing, and a non-motorized boat launch. 35 camping sites, 14 with full RV hookups.

3. CAMP WILKERSON

65866 Aplary Road, Rainier. 280-acre secluded, forested site, 24 Adirondacks (3-sided camp shelters), numerous tent sites, rustic 2 room cabins and a rustic day lodge complete with cooking facilities to accommodate groups of up to 250 people. Bring your horses, ride the trails and camp in one of our horse corral tent sites.

4. DIBBLEE ISLAND PARK

Rides, live music, beer, fireworks at Rainier Days at the Park on July 10-13.

Columbia River Channel, Rainier. This is among the areas visited by Lewis and Clark over 200 years ago!

5. GILBERT RIVER BOAT RAMP & DOCKS

Reeder Road, Sauvie Island. Located within the Sauvie Island Wildlife Area, this facility provides easy access to the Multnomah Channel for a variety of boating activities and fishing.

6. HUDSON-PARCHER PARK

75503 Larson Road, Rainier. Popular with family groups, sports groups and others looking for peaceful forest and field camp sites. 35 RV spaces, tent camping, cabin/cooking facility for a party of up to 66 people, ball parks, soccer field, basketball court, 3 playgrounds, covered picnic areas and easy access to fishing, boating or windsurfing.

7. J.J. COLLINS MEMORIAL MARINE PARK

Rm 8.0 Multnomah Channel, Scappoose. This park is only accessible by boat for a wildlife island adventure. Primitive campsites and a covered picnic area.

8. LAUREL BEACH

CLATSKANIE

BUDDHIST MONASTERY

Built on logging, you can feel heritage through this town. Turn-of-the-century lumberman T.J. Flippin built his home to look like a castle. The turreted white mansion at 620 Tichenor is a senior center and a museum. Tours: 503-7283608. Clatskanie City Park, 300 N.E. Park St., has an outdoor swimming pool, a sports field, playground, horseshoe pits, picnic tables and barbecue pits, tent and RV camp sites, a horse arena, a boat ramp into the Clatskanie River and restrooms with showers. The Lewis and Clark Heritage Canoe Trail begins at the park, winds along the Clatskanie River and explores the islands of the Lower Columbia.

Great Vow Buddhist Monastery, the largest Zen facility in the Northwest, is at 79640 Quincy-Mayger Rd. It is built in a converted elementary school. It is a full-time residential training monastery. Guests can tour the facility and attend the Sunday program, which begins at 10 a.m. >> Greatvow.org

Laurel Beach Road, Rainier. Rustic Day-use only park, featuring access to one of the Columbia River’s many fishing spots. In addition to offering outstanding bird viewing.

9. ASBURRY PARK

Saulser Rd,. St. Helens. Day-use only area, which includes picinic sites, childeren’s ball field and a nature trail.

10. PRESCOTT BEACH

73125 Prescott Beach Drive. Day-use only area. One of the Columbia River’s finest fishing and windsurfing sites. Features a covered picnic shelter, play-ground equipment, gazebo, a horseshoe pit and volleyball courts.

11. SCAPONIA PARK

22870 Scappoose-Vernonia Hwy., Scappoose. Recreational area featuring a 7-acre nature park and 12 tent sites.

12. SCAPPOOSE R.V. PARK

34038 N Honeyman Road, Scappoose. A comfortable, shaded view of this growing rural airport makes the Scappoose R.V. Park a unique spot for picnicking or camping at one of the 6 RV sites.

1054 Oregon Street, St. Helens, Oregon 97051 Phone 503-397-2353 • Fax: 503-397-7215 Reservations: 503-366-3984 47

wahkiakum county

relax & explore A couple of charming towns — and a historic bridge — line the road west from Longview to the beach. Cathlamet seems like a small town of 50 years ago, and Skamokawa focuses on the Columbia River. In between them sprawls a wildlife refuge with deer, elk and birds.

CATHLAMET

County Line Park

PUGET ISLAND

This town has an authentic ambiance, a place where people work with tools and fishing tackle. Here, visitors can savor the flavor of an America before strip malls and fast-food chains jammed the landscape. Cathlamet, pronounced “cath-LA-met,” is 20 miles west of Longview on Ocean Beach Highway (SR4). The town has about 550 inhabitants. Stop at the visitor information center at the corner of Broadway and River streets. Pick up the Historic Tour Guide and set out on foot or in your car. Nearby is the 1884 Pioneer Church, the steeple of which is a town landmark. Stroll down Broadway to a viewing area of the Columbia River — tugboats may be docked nearby. Walk the waterfront trail from the museum to the marina, which can be jammed when salmon fishing is good on the Columbia.

On the way west from Longview, stop at County Line Park, which recently was refurbished with new bathrooms and other improvements. It has 18 RV sites and three tent sites near a sandy beach on the Columbia River.

After exploring Cathlamet by foot, drive out Main Street, which becomes Highway 409, and continue across the curving bridge span to Puget Island. It’s a flatland of dairy farms, tidy houses with Scandinavian names on the mailboxes and boathouses perched on the sloughs. The highway passes the Puget Island Grange, dedicated in 1928, on the left. It’s 3 miles to the Puget Island ferry, the last ferry on the lower Columbia. It runs back and forth between Puget Island and Westport on the Oregon side. The 12-minute ride costs $5 per car. Other roads on Puget Island make an excellent place for bicycling. They’re flat, and there’s little traffic. It’s about 20 miles all the way around the island.

Bring your camera to capture a plethora of wildlife

There’s always someone having fun at Skamokawa’s Vista Park

SKAMOKAWA Pronounced “Skah-MOCK-away,” the riverside village Skamokawa packs a lot of tourist destinations into its tiny size. The River Life Interpretive Center, an imposing structure built in 1894 as a school, towers above the highway. On the ground floor of what’s called Redmen Hall is a gift shop and gallery, which is open noon-4 p.m. Thursdays through Sundays. It features exhibits of art with a local flavor. The second floor houses exhibits showing the area’s history. Drive a couple of blocks down Steamboat Slough Road to look at Lurline Hall, a nicely restored 1911 building on pilings that was once a steam-

GRAYS RIVER boat landing. Skamokawa also features the 28-acre Vista Park on the Columbia River, which offers fishing, picnicking, boating and beachcombing. The park includes tennis and basketball courts, a baseball field, walking paths, a large playing field, 35 campsites and five yurts — circular, domed tents on platforms with enough space for a family to camp inside. Reservations: 360-795-8605 or vistapark.wordpress.com. For further information on Cathlamet and Skamokawa, call the Wahkiakum Chamber of Commerce at 360-795-9996 or visit WahkiakumChamber.com

The community of Grays River in western Wahkiakum County has just a couple of stores, though its most famous feature is a short detour off the highway. The community’s historical claim to fame is a covered bridge built in 1905. The 158-footlong bridge is the last such structure on a public roadway in the state. Originally built at a cost of $2,700, it went through a major renovation in 1989. Drive across its wood plank deck and imagine you’re in a horsedrawn buggy. The bridge is accessed by Loop Road. For information on the Elochoman and Grays rivers, see Page 18. 49

astoria

Columbia River Maritime Museum

Climb the 125-foot tall Astoria Column for a spectacular view of the city, as well as the Columbia River, Pacific Ocean (see above). 50

Nestled among a lineup of shops is Astoria’s historical gem – The Maritime Museum – which provides a retroactive peek at the history of the Columbia River. A capsized ship in the museum’s window makes it hard to miss this nautical time capsule. Inside, visitors learn about everything from the perilous trips of the many ships that have traversed the Columbia River to a hands-on look at a reconstructed US Navy Destroyer bridge. Walk around the bridge to be instantly transported back in time. The museum also dedicates space to video footage of the Columbia River bar – a treacherous path for sea goers – and the history of gillnetting. The museum is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. >> crmm.org

Lightship Columbia: Take in views from aboard the docked Lightship Columbia, an out-of- commission ship that was once used as a lighthouse off the mouth of the Columbia. Check out the officer’s quarters and radio room below deck to get a glimpse of what life was like for those manning the lightship. Astoria-Megler Bridge: To take in a view of the Columbia River, drive the Astoria-Megler Bridge, which connects Oregon to Washington and trails into scenic Highway 101. Goonies House: Step into the movie with a visit to the house that was used on set of The Goonies. It is at 368 38th St. at Duane. >> Oregonfilmmuseum.org

Bring Coupon for $10 oFF

CoHo Charters CoHo Charters and motel “The Fish Finders” Salmon Sturgeon

trips starting at $11225 + tax May through September

Beautiful Boats experienced Skippers

Best Sturgeon & Salmon Fishing

454476

all “one C It s e o d all”

Charter Fishing Since 1956 PO Box 268, Ilwaco, WA 98624 www.cohocharters.com

1-800-339-2646

Astoria Music Festival KEITH CLARK, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR

JUNE 13–29 %6%.43 s 0%2&/2-%23 Metropolitan

/PERA 3TAR Dining Destination

downtown

If a trip to the museum still leaves you thirsting for more from the area, kick back at Fort George Brewery, which is a short walk from the museum. Craft beer is brewed on site at Fort George, which is seated in what was formerly an automotive service station. The beer is served in mason jars alongside ample portions of its many dishes, including house-made sausages, plump burritos and organic fries. If you’re not in the mood for a big dinner, nurse a beer on the top deck of the restaurant in the company of live music and dancing. The pub is open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. weekdays, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. weekends and 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays. For tap room hours and a live music schedule, visit fortgeorgebrewery.com.

The downtown strip boasts a treasure trek of yesteryear’s items. Shops selling used wares pepper the streets in Astoria, catering to those who prefer vintage or retro finds. The hunt is on as you make your way through the downtown area, which has the same vintage feel as many of its stores’ treasures.

Angela Meade SINGS

,A 4RAVIATA

“…one vocal thrill after another.” NEW YORK TIMES

3YMPHONY s /PERA #HAMBER -USIC s $ANCE s &ILM

astoriamusicfestival.org 503.325.989 51

washington coast

Seaview Here you can follow a gentle path along the shoreline or spot a winter population of trumpeter swans. Seaview, considered one of the best examples of early coastal communities in the Northwest, was founded in 1881 and quickly became the playground for wealthy vacationers from Portland. The fine houses and cottages lining its lanes provide a nice place to walk or bike. There’s a pocket of antique shops and malls, plus fine cuisine at the Shoalwater Restaurant. 52

Long Beach At the commercial hub of the Peninsula you’ll find arcades and go-carts, along with restaurants, galleries, kite shops, gift shops, bakeries and bookstores and ... a very long beach. One of the betterknown attractions is Jake the Alligator Man, who resides in a glass case at Marsh’s Free Museum, actually an offbeat store. Jake appears to be a small mummified human from the waist up and a gator in his lower extremities. We’ll let you be the judge.

Fun in the sun! The Long Beach Peninsula’s beach, 28 miles long, is one of the longest continuous sandy beaches in North America, and there’s public access every few miles. The Boardwalk is a short walk from most places in downtown. The elevated path is nearly a half-mile long and features interpretive displays, sitting areas and great views. Most of the beach is open to motorized vehicles. During summer months, 1.4 miles of the beach is closed to vehicles, between Seaview and the Bolstad access in Long Beach.

Ilwaco The vintage fishing village of Ilwaco, with its busy marina for commercial and pleasure boats, dates back to the 1880s. Its port is nestled just inside the Columbia River bar. The Port of Ilwaco is a real working fishing village. Several charter boat companies offer trips into the lower Columbia River and out to the ocean to catch salmon and sturgeon. Guest moorage is available yearround. The marina waterfront draws visitors for its restaurants, gift shops, galleries, retail seafood outlets, baristas and bookstore.

Ocean Park Heading north from Long Beach, you’ll want to stop in Ocean Park, home of the annual Northwest Garlic Festival, June 14-15 this year. Ocean Park has grown into a full-service seaside community that welcomes some 10,000 seasonal residents each summer. Before your visit, make sure you go to OPWA. com and print out the Ocean Park Area Walking Tour, which takes visitors past local landmarks and historical buildings. Among the highlights of the tour is The Wreckage, a home built in 1912 largely from materials salvaged from the beach. The home is now on the National Register of Historic Places.

Nahcotta This small fishing town on the Willapa Bay side of the Peninsula offers a beautiful view of the bay and Long Island. You can explore the Nahcotta Tidelands Interpretive Site and learn about the shellfish, wildlife and plants of the Willapa Bay ecosystem at the interpretive center in Ocean Park. The center, a replica of an oyster station house, celebrates the history of oyster growing in Willapa Bay. 360-665-4547

Oysterville North of Nahcotta is Oysterville, placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976. Homes here date to 1863 and grace tree-lined streets. The 1892 church is open to the public. Oysterville boasts the state’s oldest operating post office — and likely the smallest. It’s at the Oysterville Store, a combination grocery/ souvenir/bookstore. 53

washington coast

Timeless. Invigorating. Delicious.

World Kite Museum

800.451.2542

funbeach.com 54

Heritage Museum

The only such institution in North America, the World Kite Museum features fantastic kites from around the world and throughout history. The museum boasts a collection of more than 1,500 kites, including the most complete collection of Japanese kites outside Japan. The museum is at 303 Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach. It’s open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, May through September. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and $3 for children.

The Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum, 115 S.E. Lake St. in Ilwaco, celebrates the history and culture of Southwest Pacific County and the mouth of the Columbia River. It has exhibits about the Chinook Indian tribe, including a traditional dugout canoe. Explore a pioneer village and learn about fishing, logging and cranberry farming. And there’s a replica of a town street, circa 1915, with barbershop, bar and church. Through August this year, there’s a special exhibit on the 125th anniversary of the “Clamshell Railroad,” which once ran along the beach .

>> Worldkitemuseum.com

>> Columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org

See the light

Take short hikes to explore the North Head lighthouse (se en here) and the Cape Disappointme nt lighthouse. Bring your came ra, because sweeping, postcard -esque views are everywhere you turn.

Fort Columbia Built to defend the Columbia River from 1896 to 1947, Fort Columbia near Chinook was fully manned and operational through three wars. Today, visitors will find picnic areas, hiking trails and historical buildings at the state park. Peer into the innards of the massive gun emplacements. You can even stay overnight in one of the heritage houses. Hours vary in the summer and winter. A state parks Discover Pass is required.

Cape Disappointment One of Washington’s most popular state parks, Cape Disappointment covers nearly 2,000 acres with a variety of campsites and picnic areas that provide dramatic views of the ocean and the Columbia River Estuary. Visitors also can explore bunkers of an old military fort, hike to the Cape Disappointment and North Head lighthouses, wander through coastal forests, view wildlife from the North Jetty, explore Beard’s Hollow or Waikiki Beach, or visit the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, described at right. The park is 2 miles southwest of Ilwaco on Loop 101. A Discover Pass is required, >> parks.wa.gov

Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center The best museum to learn about the Lewis and Clark Expedition in these parts is the interpretive center that bears the explorers’ names. Perched upon a cliff, on top of two gun emplacements that once guarded the Columbia River’s mouth, is the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment. The center allows visitors to relive the 1804-1806 journey of The Corps of Discovery on a self-guided walk through displays, paintings, artifacts, photographs and entries from the original journals. The center is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily year round. Cost is $3 for adults and seniors, and $1 for children ages 7-17. >> Capedisappointment.org 55

washington coast Leadbetter Point Perched on the tip of the Long Beach Peninsula is Leadbetter Point State Park, which separates Willapa Bay from the Pacific Ocean. Leadbetter Point borders the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. Tens of thousands of shorebirds feed and rest here during spring and fall migration. Here, visitors can enjoy hiking, fishing, bird watching and clamming. State Route 103 ends at Leadbetter Point State Park.

The Cranberry Museum spotlights the history and methods of farming this bitter fruit, which has been around for more than 100 years in Southwest Washington. Tour the museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10-acre demonstration cranberry farm or shop for treats in the gift shop. Peak growing season is mid-September through harvest in early to mid-October. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the crimson bogs during harvest time. The museum is at 2907 Pioneer Rd., Long Beach.

>> parks.wa.gov

>> cranberrymuseum.com

Watch artists carve epic sandcastles at the annual SandSations in Long Beach, July 16-20 56

Cranberries

Waterfront Dining

PORT OF ILWACO

Clam digging

Saturday Market, Mayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;September Thousands flock to the Long Beach Peninsula during digs â&#x20AC;&#x201D; about eight weekends per year. Every dig is contingent on having healthy enough clams. For updated information, call the Department of Fish and Wildlife hot line at 360-696-6211 ext. 1010. >> wdfw.wa.gov

- Charter Fishing - Waterfront Dining - Fresh Seafood - Shopping - Working Waterfront -

Saturday Market, Mayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;September at the Port of Ilwaco Marina Located at the mouth of the Columbia River

Motel RV & Tent Sites t 1MBZHSPVOE t -BVOESZ t 3FD )BMM t 4IPXFST t 1SPQBOF t (BNFT

XXX PQSFTPSU DPN Reservations

1-800-835-4634 i3w 4U 1 0 #PY 0DFBO 1BSL 8"

(360) 665-4585 57

oregon coast

Cannon Beach This sandy stretch of the Oregon Coast is best known as the home of Haystack Rock and its habitat of sea life. It’s one of the few places you can absorb an intimate view of starfish, anemone and other delicate sea creatures that reside in the rocky tide pool adjacent to Haystack Rock. Try your hand at maneuvering the jagged rocks, but be careful to mind their colorful inhabitants. If ever you tire of the ocean scenery, the cozy town’s streets are lined with coffee shops, eateries and art exhibits. For the oenophile, the Wine Shack offers Saturday tastings and engaging chatter with a sommelier in its quaint shop. Art exhibits featuring work that draws from local scenery also are a common fixture in Cannon Beach. Unwind at the end of the day at one of its many restaurants, including Bill’s Tavern and Brewhouse. >> cannonbeach.org

Seaside A short drive from Cannon Beach, Seaside maintains a more casual vibe with its lineup of shops that tout everything from sweet treats (ice cream, anyone?) to beach ware. Dogs are a common staple on the boardwalk that fringes the beach, so leash up your pup or find your stride solo in the sun. For an added challenge, take your pooch to the sand and comb the beach for sand dollars. The sandy stretches are dotted with the jagged pieces of sea life. The real challenge is finding one still intact. Seaside also offers myriad options for those looking to get active. Kayaks, canoes, paddle boats, bikes and surf boards are available to rent if traversing the coast on foot isn’t enough. >> Seasideor.com

Plenty to see at Ecola State Park between Seaside and Cannon Beach

hidden gems Highway 101 meanders along the rugged coastline through bustling coastal towns between sea cliffs, beaches and sea stacks. Explore everything in between from Astoria to Lincoln City and beyond. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss hiking a network of trails, exploring hidden tide pools and visiting iconic lighthouses.

View from Ecola State Park looking south toward Cannon Beach

oregon coast

Lighthouses galore Nine sentinels stand tall along the Oregon coast. Seven are open to the public, and many offer tours. From north to south: Tillamook Rock (seen here, near Cannon Beach) Cape Meares (near Tillamook) Yaquina Head (near Newport) Yaquina Bay (near Newport) Heceta Head (near Florence) Umpqua River (near Reedsport) Cape Arago (near Coos Bay) Coquille River (near Bandon) Cape Blanco (near Port Orford)

Tillamook Known as the land of “cheese, trees, and ocean breeze,” Tillamook offers whale watching, dune climbing, an impressive collection of 30 War Birds at the Tillamook Air Museum and the state’s largest colony of puffins. Most famously, it is the home of the Tillamook Creamery, where the cooperative makes cheese, yogurt and ice cream. More than 1 million tour the factory each year. >> GoTillamook.com 60

Pacific City You can sip a brew from the beachside porch of Pelican Pub, a microbrewery right in front of Haystack Rock. This award- winning brewery is a good launching point for hiking, camping, biking and beachcombing. Don’t miss the dorymen taking off at the bottom of Cape Kiwanda (dory fishing boats are launched from the surf). >> Pacificcity.org

At low tide, explore the tide pools. At high tide, enjoy the many coastal eateries.

Lincoln City With 7,500 permanent residents, Lincoln City is one of the larger towns on the Oregon Coast. Along with plenty of beach access and shopping, Lincoln City also offers the Chinook Winds Casino and the upscale Salishan Resort. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a glass art studio. Lincoln City is 95 miles south of Cannon Beach. From Southwest Washington, the quickest way to get there is head south on I-5 to Portland, then southwest on Highway 18. >> Oregoncoast.org

Southern coast South of Lincoln City on Highway 101, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll travel through Depot Bay (whale watching), Newport (aquarium), Florence (play on the dunes), Coos Bay (myrtle wood), Bandon (go golfing), and Gold Beach (jet boats). >> Visittheoregoncoast.com 61

columbia gorge The Columbia River Gorge is a scenic wonder, with peaks towering as much as 5,000 feet above the river. It’s also flowing with tourist attractions, from windsurfing to wine-tasting. There’s plenty to keep visitors busy for several days.

COLUMBIA GORGE DISCOVERY CENTER AND MUSEUM On a windy point in the open reaches of the eastern Columbia River Gorge stands an imposing wood-and-stone museum with a collection that easily matches that of larger institutions. The 48,200-squarefoot Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Museum includes four attractions: the Forest Service’s museum of natural and human history in the Gorge, the Wasco County Historical Museum, a separate exhibit about the Lewis and Clark Expedition, and a raptor show featuring nine birds of prey. Through spring and summer, workers show off the two great-horned owls, two bald eagles, two kestrels, a rough-legged hawk, a screech owl and a red-tailed hawk in raptors in the center’s 140-seat auditorium at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. every day. >> gorgediscovery.org

MARYHILL MUSEUM OF ART It may seem odd to find a world-class collection of Rodin sculptures in the remote reaches of the Gorge, but consider the museum’s history. The wealthy and eccentric Samuel Hill built the castle-like structure as his home, but it was dedicated as a museum in 1926, with a visit by the queen of Romania. Today the museum houses 87 Rodins including his well-known “The Thinker,” 100 chess sets, Orthodox icons, paintings and Native American art. >> maryhillmuseum.org. STONEHENGE Another eastern Gorge oddity is the full-scale model of the Neolithic monument in England. Unlike the original, this one’s made of concrete. Stonehill, also built by Samuel Hill, is three miles east of the Maryhill Museum, just off Highway 14.

er Wind surfing in Hood Riv

columbia gorge destinations Punchbowl Falls on Eagle Creek

Multnomah Falls Oregon’s famous 620-foottall cascade is the most popular tourist attraction in the state. Most people stroll a few yards to the base of the falls. A network of trails switchbacks up the hill and connects with other nearby falls, but these routes won’t be open until around Memorial Day in 2014.

HOOD RIVER This vibrant town has become a mecca for all things outdoors. In summer, the windy reaches of the Columbia River off Hood River attract windsurfers from around the world. In fall, the nearby orchards of the Hood River Valley sell fruit by bushel. In winter, downhill and cross-country skiing areas are less than an hour’s drive away. And hiking trails and fishing are available year-round. The town itself is well-supplied with trendy eateries and shops that are constantly evolving, inviting return visits. Park along the main street, Oak Street, and explore. At one end is the Hood River Hotel, a renovated 103-year-old structure with fine dining and elegant, though cozy, rooms. Oak Street also has a brewery, a flyfishing shop and clothing and gift shops. Down at the waterfront, park and watch the windsurfers. Beginners can sign up for a lesson from one of the town’s shops.

eum Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Mus

BONNEVILLE DAM This is the first dam built on the lower Columbia River and it’s still the most impressive one. The Corps of Engineers operates a visitor center that explains the dam’s history and power generation. And in fall, you can see hundreds of salmon swimming up the fish ladder. One of its claims to fame is “Herman the Sturgeon,” an 11-foot fish in a tank. On the Oregon side, anglers can fish from Robins and Bradford Islands. CASCADE LOCKS The town of Cascade Locks may be bestknown as the location of the Bridge of the Gods, a narrow steel structure that’s the only bridge across the Columbia River for miles. But don’t overlook the town’s Marine Park a few blocks to the east and grab some ice cream and a burger at the iconic East Wind Drive-In. Take Exit 44 of I-84 in Oregon. HIKES Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail — three parts total more than 12 miles, good for a family bicycling, and popular with hikers, too. You’ll see two tunnels, a visitor center, cliff-side vistas and access to a few state parks. The upper portion of Columbia Hills State Park and adjacent Columbia Hills Natural Area Preserve are two of the best places for eastern Gorge flowerwatching. The area is about 8 miles east of The Dalles. Coyote Wall/Catherine Creek is a dramatic geological oddity that forms a giant, 2-mile-long step on the Washington side of the Gorge. Atop the 200-foot tall cliff are miles of open, rolling meadow.

dmytrok / Flickr

Eagle Creek is a jump-off point for a half-dozen trails, but mostly is known for its concentration of world-class waterfalls — 13. It’s about 7.5 miles to the last two, Tunnel Falls and Twister Falls. But many walk 1.9 miles to Punchbowl Falls.

columbia gorge

Lake Scanewa

Cowlitz River near Mayfield Lake

White Pass Ski Resort

Riffe Lake

At 606 feet high, Mossyrock Dam is the tallest in Washington. Riffe Lake, the impoundment behind the dam, reaches for 23 miles, with several public parks and boat launches maintained by Tacoma Public Utilities. For a quick look at the top of the dam, stop at the parking lot just off Highway 12, 23 miles east of I-5. A concrete fishing pier, complete with rod holders, hugs the cliff, and people reel in several species of fish. A full-fledged park, Mossyrock Park, is on the other side of the reservoir, accessed through the town of Mossyrock. The 640-acre park has a 152-site campground and a swimming area.

Mayfield Lake You’re never far from water at Ike Kinswa State Park, which hugs the shoreline of Mayfield Lake where the Tilton and Cowlitz rivers flow into it. The 454-acre park has almost 9 miles of waterfront. Some of the park’s 103 campsites are dispersed amid trees along the lake, and the park has five cabins that can be reserved. To reach the park, drive 14 miles on Highway 12 from I-5, then north onto SR 122 (Silver Creek Road) Go 1.9 miles to the Y-intersection, then continue on SR 122 (Harmony Road) east for 1.6 miles to the park. Or stop by Mayfield Lake Park. It has 55 camp sites, a boat launch and a swimming area.

Lake Scanewa The term “lake” may seem a stretch for Lake Scanewa, the 610-acre reservoir created in 1994 when Cowlitz Falls Dam was completed. The U-shaped lake extends 10.5 miles up the Cowlitz River and 1.5 miles up the Cispus. In fall, the area is regularly stocked with surplus salmon, and it gets trout, too. The 110-acre campground is about 5 miles upstream on the Cowlitz, where the reservoir looks like a river. Across the river, bluffs tower more than 1,000 feet. The campground has 100 sites. To reach it, take Highway 12 Savio Road, which is about 46 miles east of I-5, and follow the signs.

Colleen Lane / Flickr

scenic byway

Highway 12 through Eastern Lewis County is called the White Pass Scenic Byway. The major two-lane route leads over that mountain pass — but there’s plenty to see and do on the way there. Trophy fishing, mountaineering, skiing, rock climbing ... experience all of it along this amazing route through Washington’s Cascades.

Chehalis-CentRalia RailRoad & MuseuM regular season schedule

may 24 - aug 31

saturdays & sundays

sept 6 - sept 27

saturdays only saturdays sundays

1 pm | 3 pm | 5 pm

1 pm | 3 pm

memorial day & labor day Taidnapam Park At the upper (eastern) end of Riffe Lake, this campground features 163 pleasant sites in the trees. There’s also an impressive fishing bridge over the Cowlitz River where it flows into Riffe. Even on nasty days, the wheelchair-accessible bridge attracts anglers from afar, who try their luck for coho. To reach the park, take Highway 12 for approximately 37 miles (5 miles past Morton). Turn right on Kosmos Road, then left onto Champion Haul Road, which is paved. Drive approximately 4 miles to the park entrance. On the way to the park in summer, you may see paragliders floating overhead; they launch from Peterman Ridge.

Packwood The area around Packwood and White Pass contains dozens of opportunities for hiking. One of the easier ones is the 4 ƒ-mile trail to lovely Packwood Lake. It’s at a relatively low elevation, so it’s snow-free much of the year. The lake is 2 miles long and half a mile wide; the peaks of the Goat Rocks Wilderness Area tower above its upper end. It has campsites and an old ranger station (but no longer a general store). Trail No. 78 is open to hikers and horseback riders only. The nearby Pipeline Road Trail is also open to ATVs and mountain bikes. To reach either, take Snyder Road (Forest Road 1260) from the town of Packwood 6 miles to the trailhead.

1 pm | 3 pm

special events

murder mystery

dinner trains dinner trains easter trains pumpkin trains santa steam trains

the polar express ™ reservations required

steam train rides in 1920’s coaches pulled by a 1916 steam locomotive. I-5 exit 77

for more information: steamtrainride.com | 360-748-9593 | 65

area map Oysterville Nahcotta Ocean Park

Winlock Toledo

Vader

Mossyrock

WAHKIAKUM COUNTY

Long Beach Seaview Ilwaco

Tou tl

Naselle

Toutle Rosburg

101

Chinook

Castle Rock 5

Astoria

504 e Ri v

Coldwater Lake

Mount St. helens national volcanic Monument

COWLITZ COUNTY

Warrenton 30

Clatskanie

CLATSOP COUNTY

Lake Merwin

Rainier

COLUMBIA COUNTY

Seaside

Yale Lake

Kalama

202 202

Woodland St. Helens

Cannon Beach

La Center

Mount St. helens nvM adminstrative District

Swift Reservoir

Yacolt

Cowlitz Valley Ranger District

Cougar Kelso

Westport

Longview

Spirit Lake

Mount St. Helens

Cathlamet

Knappa

Silver Lake

Lake

LEWIS COUNTY

Randle

PACIFIC COUNTY

CLARK COUNTY

Mount Adams Ranger District

SKAMANIA COUNTY

47 26

To Portland

Scappoose

Battle Ground

409331