Columbia Views
2011 visitor guide for SW Washington and NW Oregon
A supplement of
welcome
Contents Mount St. Helens........ 4 Hiking........................... 12 Wildlife......................... 14 Outdoor fun................. 16 Mountain biking and skate parks.......... 18 Road biking................. 20 Art and music.............. 22 Camping...................... 24 Golf.............................. 26 Festivals....................... 28 Longview..................... 30 Kelso............................ 34 Kalama........................ 36 Castle Rock................. 38 Woodland.................... 40 Columbia County........ 42 Wahkiakum County.... 46 Astoria......................... 48 Washington coast....... 52 Oregon coast............... 58 Columbia Gorge.......... 64 Map of area................. 66
STAFF Publisher Rick Parrish Design editor Evan Caldwell Associate editor Rieva Lester Associate editor Sarah Case Lead photographer Bill Wagner Photographer Roger Werth
Put these photos in a frame. Buy reprints of the pictures featured inside by visiting www.tdn.com/columbiaviews
Photographer at large Greg Ebersole Photographer at large Evan Caldwell Lead writer Tom Paulu Writer Thelma Blanchette Website designer Bradley Beach Advertising managers Steve Quaife and Marianne Chambers
Graphic supervisor Kaci Foultner Graphic artist Barbara Chapman Graphic artist Marc Monge Graphic artist Deborah Proshold Graphic artist Ryan Arlint Graphic artist Jolene Williamson Ad layout designer Susan Robinson
Whichever direction you look from within the Lower Columbia region, the views are outstanding. Our annual tourism guide, now called Columbia Views, will help you decide which ones to see. The pages that follow tell how to make the most of a visit to Mount St. Helens. It’s been 31 years since its eruption changed the local landscape -- and the volcano became the main tourist attraction in the Longview-Kelso area.
Bud Clary
f o y l i m a F s p i h s r e l Dea
The harsh but beautiful landscape around the volcano has plenty of competition for sightseeing in the Lower Columbia region.
Ocean landscapes range from miles of flat, sandy beach to towering cliffs topped by solid lighthouses that still are in use a century after they were built. Or venture upstream along the Columbia through its magnificent gorge, which abounds in hiking and tourist attractions The region’s small towns offer their own delights, and most put on familyoriented festivals during the summer. This guide helps you plan for those festivals, and many more of the region’s natural and man-made pleasures. May your views of the Columbia region be good.
The Daily News; P.O. Box 189; 770 11th Ave. Longview, WA 98632 phone 1-800-341-4745 web tdn.com/ColumbiaViews To advertise For information or to advertise in our next issue, call 360-577-2552. Columbia Views is published by
The Daily News and distributed throughout Southwest Washington and Northwest Oregon. Copies are available at select businesses and destinations throughout the region and at The Daily News, 770 11th Ave., Longview, Wash. © Columbia Views, 2011 The Daily News, a Lee Enterprises newspaper.
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For a completely different experience, follow the route of Lewis and Clark, who spent the winter of 1805-06 near Astoria, Ore. Drive west along the broad Columbia River, which meets the Pacific Ocean near towns fresh with sea breeze that have become tourist destinations.
mount st. helens Mount St. Helens’ eruption on May 18, 1980, killed 57 people and permanently changed the local landscape. Since then, the volcano has spawned a wealth of tourism
A day-trip destination
Journey up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway to take in these magnificent stops
attractions. Three decades after the eruption, visitors can easily spend two or three days checking out all the volcano-related trails, visitor centers and scenic drives.
1 Mount St. Helens (Silver Lake) Visitor Center isn’t just a place to learn about the volcano; it’s one of the most impressive public buildings in the region — so are other visitor centers farther up the road.
visitors at the center, which is 5 miles up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway.
Even if you’re not planning to go all the way to the mountain, the Mount St. Helens Visitor Center is worth a trip. You can easily spend an educational 90 minutes seeing everything at Cowlitz County’s largest museum. It offers lessons in geology, history and, of course, volcanology.
Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily May through September. Cost: $5 adults, $2.50 ages 7-17, $15 per family. Fee covers admission to this center only. (As of press time, the state Legislature was debating increasing fees for State Parks, so these fees may change.)
A 36- by -22-foot mural of the volcano’s billowing cloud of ash and steam greets
The center is owned and operated by Washington State Parks, so federal access passes aren’t valid.
Contact: 360 274-0962; www.parks.wa.gov/interp/ mountsthelens
2 Hoffstadt Bluffs Visitor Center, owned and operated by Cowlitz County, was remodeled in 2009. It has expanded exhibits and the Fire Mountain Grill restaurant, along with a gift shop. In summer, Hillsboro Aviation offers helicopter tours starting at Hoffstadt Bluffs, weather permitting. The cost is $149 per person and up, depending on duration. The center is 27 miles up the highway. Admission is free. It opens at 11 a.m. daily, with variable closing hours. Contact: 274-5200; www.hoffstadtbluffs.com
The best views into the crater are from Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, which has four visitor centers. South of the volcano is the climbing route, a fascinating cave and a
dramatic canyon (on next page). Or drive all the way around the peak to Windy Ridge, which has still more breathtaking views.
Johnston Ridge
3 Weyerhaeuser Forest Learning Center exhibits tell about the pre-eruption forest and how the company salvaged downed timber. Weyerhaeuser lost 20,700 acres of timber to Mount St. Helens’ fury. From observation areas outside the center that have telescopes, elk can often be spotted in the Toutle Valley below. Volunteers sometimes help point them out. Again this year, the center’s exhibits will be open 10 a.m.6 p.m. Fridays through Sundays and holidays from May 14 through Labor Day. The gift shop, playground and observation areas are open daily May 1 through the end of October. Admission is free. Contact: 274-7750; www.mountsthelens.com/Forest-Learning-Center.html
4 Johnston Ridge Observatory boasts the best viewpoint into Mount St. Helens’ crater accessible by road. The base of the volcano looms just 3 miles away, with the sharp summit ridge twice as far. The observatory sits atop a 1,000-foothigh cliff, adding to the drama. The building itself houses a high-tech theater and big volcano model along with exhibits on geology and the 1980 eruption. Displays and AV equipment are new this year. The Eruption Trail outside makes a ¾-mile loop, or continue on the Boundary Trail for as many miles as you have time and energy
for. An outside amphitheater is scheduled to open in July. A trailer in the parking lot offers limited food service, such as hot dogs, snacks and drinks. The observatory is at the east end of Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, 54 miles from I-5. Hours: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. every day from May 18 through October. Cost: $8 per day for those 16 and older, to visit the center or park in the lot. (This includes hikers who don’t go inside the building.) Contact: 274-2140; www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/mshnvm
mount st. helens Spirit Lake Memorial Highway may get most of the glory, but don’t overlook the southern approach to Mount St. Helens. Because the south side didn’t suffer much devastation 31 years ago, there’s actually much more to do here. Climbing Mount St. Helens Mount St. Helens got some bad publicity in the winter of 2010 when a climber fell off the top to his death. But climbing is safer in summer months, when there’s less snow, and the vast majority of climbers suffer nothing worse than sore muscles. In past years, between 11,000 and 12,000 people have received climbing permits and more than 80 percent make it to the summit. To reach the top requires climbing 4,500 feet of elevation in five miles. Strong legs – but no technical climbing expertise — are needed. Permits, which cost $15 per person, are required to climb the mountain. For more information, see www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/ recreation/mount-sthelens.
Ape Cave
Lava Canyon
One of the many natural wonders of Mount St. Helens is actually underground. A volcanic lava flow 2,000 years ago sculpted Ape Cave, a series of magical caverns and passages a few miles south of the volcano.
About 3,500 years ago, lava flowed down a canyon a few miles from Mount St. Helens, forming giant blobs as big as three- or four-story buildings.
At 12,810 feet in length, Ape Cave is the longest lava tube in North America. It’s three-quarters of a mile from the cave entrance to the lower end, a relatively easy route. For a longer adventure, head uphill from the entrance for about 1 ½ miles, climbing over no less than 27 piles of rock. (The cave is open year-round, though a few people who went through it in winter needed to be rescued from deep snow outside the upper end.) To reach Ape Cave, drive east of Cougar on Lewis River Road (Road 90) for 7 miles and turn left onto Road 83. Turn left again onto Road 8303. A Northwest Forest Pass is required at Ape Cave. Passes are available at the Apes’ Headquarters, which also rents lanterns and has information. Guided tours will be given June 24 through Labor Day.
There they sat, largely unnoticed, until a 1980 volcanic mudflow down the Muddy River scoured out the canyon, exposing dramatic cliffs, lava formations and churning waterfalls that had been hidden. Now a system of loop trails 2 ½ miles long, some of it wheelchair-accessible, serves the canyon. But beware: five people have fallen to their deaths from the area in recent years (it’s much more dangerous than climbing the volcano). Stay on the marked trails and keep children away from the fast-flowing water. Take Road 90 east of Cougar for 7 miles, then turn left onto Road 83. Continue another 11 miles to the end of Road 83, which is paved all the way. A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park.
5
things belonging on your to-do list
1
Cruise up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway and check out the four visitor centers and a plethora of scenic turnouts for spectacular vistas of the volcano. If it’s cloudy, don’t despair. The drive up to Mount St. Helens sometimes leads you above the clouds. Check at the Silver Lake visitor center. 2 The closest you can get to the crater without the
climb is the Johnston Ridge Observatory, which wows visitors with amazing views, interpretive trails, a hightech theater and big volcano model along with exhibits on geology and the 1980 eruption. 3 Try your hand at spelunking at the Ape Caves,
the longest lava tube in North America. (Don’t worry, this is a relatively easy route and guided tours are available.) 4 Looking for adventure? Hike the trails at Lava
Canyon to see dramatic cliffs, lava formations and churning waterfalls. 5 Want to tell your friends and family you climbed
a volcano? Then grab some water and sunscreen and start walking up ... 4,500 feet of elevation in 5 miles to be exact. A permit and strong legs – but no technical climbing expertise — are needed. Mossyrock
Randle
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Coldwater Spirit Lake Lake
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Cowlitz Valley Ranger District
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Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
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Mount St. Helens
Mount St. Helens NVM Adminstrative District
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Cougar
Part of the Loowit Trail on the south side of Mount St. Helens.
Yale Lake
503 Lake Merwin
Swift Reservoir
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See larger area map on inside back cover
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To Woodland
Yacolt
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Mount Adams Ranger District
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409368
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mount st. helens
This year is the 31st anniversary of Mount St. Helens’ history-making eruption. The visitor centers, roads and trails around the peak offer plenty of places to see signs of the devastation of that awe-inspiring day. Mount St. Helens began to erupt about 40,000 years ago onto the eroded surface of a still-older volcano. Nine “pulses” of volcanic activity occurred in the millennia before 1980, lasting from 100 to 5,000 years. On March 20, 1980, rapidly increasing earthquakes on the mountain heralded a new phase of eruptive activity. A week later, the volcano began to spew ash and steam, and a new crater appeared. At 8:32 a.m. on May 18, 1980, an earthquake registering 5.1 on the Richter scale shook the mountain. The quake jarred loose the mountain’s unstable north flank, which had been thrust outward 500 feet by the pressure of melted rock. The largest landslide in recorded history tumbled down the mountain at 150 mph. Within seconds, the uncapped pressure of superheated ground water and molten rock exploded out of the volcano’s collapsing north flank. A black explosion burst from the mountain and ripped over the hills, lakes, camps and meadows. From the barren area near the Coldwater Ridge and Johnston Ridge visitors, consider that heavy forest once covered the ground. 10
Interactive website about the 1980 eruption with historic photos and editions of The Daily News, time-lapse video, maps, timeline and more. tdn.com/app/helens/
< Windy Ridge The Windy Ridge viewpoint area boasts great views of Spirit Lake and the vast pumice plain extending toward the peak. The drive there passes the dramatic line between green timber and trees splintered by the 1980 eruption. Getting there requires about 200 miles of driving round-trip from the Kelso area. Take Interstate 5 north to Highway 12, then go east to Randle. Then take Forest roads 25 and 99 toward Windy Ridge. The last few miles of Road 99 are steep and winding. Several other viewpoints along the road offer views and talks by Forest Service field rangers. Road 99 opens in late June or early July, depending on how fast the snow melts. 11
hiking Explorers can head out every day for weeks in the Lower Columbia area and not hike all the trails. Here are some of the best ones to explore first.
Lakes Trail The first few miles of the Lakes Trail stays near the shore of Coldwater Lake, sometimes a hundred feet above the lake, sometimes near the deep green water. Stumps are visible under the water, a reminder that the lake was created in 1980.
Boundary Trail The single most spectacular hike near Mount St. Helens is the Boundary Trail, which starts at the Johnston Ridge Observatory.
Peaks tower thousands of feet above the upper lake, giving it a fjord-like feeling.
Day-hikers can go as far as they have the time and energy for, ranging from an hour-long stroll to a 13-mile roundtrip trek to the summit of 5,727-foot Coldwater Peak. Backpackers with permits can stay overnight in designated campsites.
The lake can be a bird watcher’s bonanza. Hundreds of swallows swoop through the air. The trail starts from the Coldwater Lake boat launch.
For the first 1 ½ miles east of the JRO visitor center, the trail stays near the edge of Johnston Ridge, which is at 4,200 feet elevation.
It’s about 4 miles to the upper end of the lake, a good turning-around point for a day hike.
Then the trail cuts across “The Devil’s Elbow,” a steep side slope of pumice and not-very-stable earth, with drop-offs that can be disconcerting. Two-and-one-half miles from the parking lot, you’ll reach an intersection with the Truman Trail, described below.
Fort to Sea trail Modern day explorers can hike a trail that’s close to the original route the Lewis and Clark Expedition followed from Fort Clatsop to the Pacific Ocean. The Fort to Sea Trail winds for 6 miles through forest and pasture, ending up at a broad sandy beach that’s much like what Capt. William Clark and his men saw in 1807.
Gnat Creek
Hummocks Trail 229
For maps and information, visit www.nps.gov/ lewi/planyourvisit/forttosea.htm
Trails go both directions from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Gnat Creek Hatchery, which is 15 miles west of Clatskanie on Highway 30.
Truman Trail
The lower trail goes for 1 ¼ miles along the peaceful creek to a campground and another trailhead.
The Truman Trail descends through a deeply eroded valley, past a palette of colorful deposits.
From the hatchery, the upper trail climbs past waterfalls and passes through some old growth before dead-ending after about 2 miles.
A loop of 2.3 miles winds through the harsh landscape of the hummocks, debris deposited by the mudflow down the Toutle River Valley. Today, it’s a land of marshes populated by birds and amphibians amid the dried pumice hills.
It flattens out on the broad pumice plain between Spirit Lake and the volcano.
Trail maps are available at the hatchery.
The trail includes a broad stretch accessible to wheelchairs, several impressive bridges and even a tunnel under busy Highway 101.
It’s about 1 ½ miles from the Boundary Trail down to the Spirit Lake area, a good turn-around point for a one-day hike. 12
www.oregon.gov/ODF/FIELD/ASTORIA/ State_Forest_Management/recreation_main. shtml
Elevation change is about 300 feet, so it’s an easier family hike than the Boundary or Truman trails. The trailhead is across the highway from Coldwater Lake.
For information on hikes near Mount St. Helens, see www.fs.usda.gov/mountsthelens
Goat Mountain trail
Norway Pass
A steep but well-built path climbs to some topnotch alpine country in a relatively obscure part of Mount St. Helens country, 12 miles north of the volcano.
If you’ve looked at many Mount St. Helens picture books, you’ve seen a photo taken from Norway Pass. It’s become the classic volcano view over a deep bay of Spirit Lake to the steaming crater, 7 miles away.
Goat Mountain Trail No. 217 starts from Road 2612, near Ryan Lake in the upper Green River Valley. From elevation 3,200 feet, the trail gains 2,000 feet in fewer than two miles. It traverses the ridge for about 2 miles, then dips to Deadmans Lake.
The hike starts at the Norway Pass Trailhead on Road 26, which is 2 miles north of Road 99.
Harmony Trail
South Coldwater Trail
The Harmony Trail is the only trail that goes to the shore of Spirit Lake.
This route starts near the lower end of Coldwater Lake and climbs 3.1 miles up the ridge east of the lake, gaining 1,300 feet. Much of the route is on old logging roads.
The view across the lake includes Harry’s Ridge and the foreboding peaks of the Mount Margaret Ridge. There’s a view into the crater from here, too. The Harmony Trail No. 224 starts near the end of Road 99. It descends gently but steadily for 1 mile to the lake.
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wildlife
The forests and fields of the Lower Columbia region hold thousands of deer, elk and other wildlife. Grab your camera and binoculars and head out to some of these places which are especially designated for wildlife watching
Mount St. Helens Wildlife Area In late 2009, the Mount St. Helens Wildlife Area in the Toutle River Valley more than doubled in size, though visitor access hasn’t changed much. The area in the upper North Fork Toutle valley, about 15 miles east of the town of Toutle, grew to 6,500 acres with a transfer of land from the state Department of Transportation. The newly added 3,800 acres range from mudflows on the valley floor to dense woods on surrounding slopes. Eventually, hiking trails may provide easy access to the area. For now, however, walk-in access is via the 3100 logging road at Milepost 31, east of the big bridge over Hoffstadt Creek. In summer, a few hundred elk live in the wildlife area, and walking or riding a horse among them
is allowed, though dogs aren’t allowed. January through April, when the elk population can swell to more than 500, the area is closed to public access to prevent the elk from being disturbed.
The refuge has two hiking trails and a designated driving route. There’s also an authentic reproduction of a Chinook Indian plankhouse, much like the ones Lewis and Clark saw 205 years ago.
Any time of year, you can see the elk with binoculars from the Weyerhaeuser visitor center at Milepost 33.5 on Spirit Lake Memorial Highway.
To reach the refuge, take Exit 14 from I-5 and head west 2.7 miles to the town of Ridgefield. Turn left on South Ninth Avenue, following the signs for the refuge’s River S Unit.
Website: wdfw.wa.gov/lands/wildlife_areas/ mount_saint_helens
Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge The 5,218-acre Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge is a bird-watcher’s paradise, with up to 200,000 waterfowl spending the winter there. Many other species, from sandhill cranes to sparrows, can be seen, too.
Admission costs $3 daily. 360-887-4106. Website: www.fws.gov/ridgefieldrefuges
White-tailed deer refuge The Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-tailed Deer totals more than 6,000 acres of pasture, tidal swamps and sloughs along the Columbia River between Cathlamet and
Skamokawa. The refugeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main purpose is to provide a sanctuary for the Columbian whitetailed deer, which are listed as endangered on the federal Endangered Species List. You might get a glimpse of the small deer, though an ongoing program of tree planting gives the animals better cover. Limited hunting has reduced the elk population to around 25, far fewer than in past years, though there are more than 60 species of birds. Future plans include a hiking trail, but for now the best way to visit is driving or bicycling on the peaceful roads that ring the refuge. The national wildlife refuge is 2 miles west of Cathlamet on Highway 4. 360-795-3915. Website: www.fws.gov/jbh
Jewell Meadows The Jewell Meadows wildlife area managed by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife is a great place to admire elk, especially during winter. The ODFW takes care of more than 200 Roosevelt elk at the 2,940-acre wildlife area, about a one-hour drive from Longview. The site has four viewing areas with parking and picnic tables off of Highway 202. To reach the refuge, take Highway 30 west from Rainier for 16 miles to Clatskanie. Head uphill on Highway 47 for 11 miles to Mist. Go west on Highway 202 for 17 miles to Jewell, then another mile on 202 to the refuge. 503-755-2264 Website: www.dfw.state.or.us/ resources/visitors/jewell_meadows_ wildlife_area.asp
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outdoor fun
FIND A Boat launch: Washington: http://wdfw.wa.gov/lands/water_access/
local fish
Salmon
Sturgeon
Fishing flows through the soul of the Lower Columbia region. Here’s a sampling of fish just dying to leap at your lure or bait.
Chinook salmon return to the Columbia River in three annual runs. Spring chinook come primarily March through May, the summer run follows in June and July, and the fall chinook come mostly in August and September. Coho salmon return to the rivers primarily August through November. Ocean salmon seasons usually start in July and continue until a quota is caught.
Sturgeon grow to monstrous proportions (the minimum size legal to keep is 38 inches to the fork).
Local rivers
columbia
cowlitz
kalama
Water, water everywhere, and quite a few places to drink up the scenery. No less than six rivers flow through Cowlitz County, and several others that flow out of the hills in neighboring counties invite exploration, too.
The mighty Columbia River forms the boundary between Oregon and Washington in these parts and is a source of industry, recreation and scenic beauty.
The Cowlitz River may cut through the county of the same name, but little of it can be easily seen from roads.
The Kalama is arguably the region’s prettiest river — and the one with the most public access.
The waterfront in Longview is devoted to industry, but plenty of public access is available nearby. Willow Grove County Park west of town has about a mile of sandy beach. The park just south of the Kalama marina is likewise a popular Columbia River beach. On the Oregon side of the river, try Rainier’s Riverfront Park, Prescott Beach and Dibblee Point for strolls — or fishing — along the beach. (Learn more about Columbia County on page 42.)
The best place to stroll along the Cowlitz is near Castle Rock, where trails follow both sides of the river.
16
West of Longview, Ocean Beach Highway (SR4) hugs the Columbia River shoreline for several miles before heading inland. The road rejoins the river briefly at Skamokawa, where Vista Park has camping and picnic tables.
Unlike salmonids, sturgeon in the lower Columbia River are selfsustaining, with none planted from hatcheries. The sturgeon season is now broken into segments because of concern that too many were being caught. For the latest regulations, check with a tackle shop or at wdfw.wa.gov
Aptly-named Riverside Park in Lexington has some river footage, as does the new Cook Ferry Trail near Castle Rock. In Kelso, the riverfront trail follows the Cowlitz for nearly 2 miles. (See more on local mountain biking opportunities on the next page.) Longview’s Gerhart Gardens Park off Highway 432 has a short river beach.
Anglers who have boats do the best. If you don’t have your own, guides and lower river charter boat operators will be happy to take you. Sturgeon are also caught by anglers casting from shore. Many try their luck from the side of Ocean Beach Highway west of Longview. The Columbia river near Megler, along Highway 401, is also popular with bank anglers.
A public trail follows the river’s lower mile or so in the Kalama industrial area, off Hendrickson Road. To reach other scenic spots, just drive up Kalama River Road. A boat launch and two fish hatcheries offer access. Farther upstream, the Weyerhaeuser road along the Kalama is often closed to the public. Gifford Pinchot National Forest Trail No. 238 follows the upper few miles of the river, north of Cougar. It’s accessed on Forest Service Road 81. Explorers can walk into an abandoned campground and find the Kalama’s source as it gurgles out of a natural spring. www.fs.fed. us/gpnf/recreation/trails
Oregon: http://data.oregon.gov/browse?tags=boat+ramps
Steelhead
Bass
Trout
Though similar to salmon, steelhead are actually rainbow trout that spend most of their lives in the ocean. They reach upward of 20 pounds when they return to spawn.
Bass aren’t nearly as big a deal around here as they are farther east. But Cowlitz County’s Silver Lake is often called the best bass water in Western Washington. It annually produces some of the biggest largemouth caught anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. The best bass fishing there is in the spring, though the lake is open year-round.
The Department of Fish and Wildlife plants hundreds of thousands of rainbow and brown trout in area lakes in the spring and early summer.
Local rivers, including the Cowlitz, Lewis, Kalama, Woodland and Elochoman are among those favored by steelhead anglers. The mainstem Columbia also is a source of steelhead. Steelhead swim upstream in a winter run that starts in November and runs into April, and a summer run comes from May into August.
Other warmwater fish that can be caught in Silver Lake are crappie, bluegill, catfish and perch.
Trout-stocked lakes are a good place to introduce small fry of the human variety to fishing. Some of the most popular local lakes are Sacajawea in Longview, Kress near Kalama and Horseshoe in Woodland. Swift Reservoir near Cougar also gets planted heavily.
lewis
toutle
elochoman
grays
The Lewis River flows from Mount Adams all the way to the Columbia near Woodland, and much of its shores are accessible to the public.
The Toutle River flows off of Mount St. Helens and is often muddy, though several places along it make for pleasant summer meandering.
The Elochoman in Wahkiakum County is popular with salmon and steelhead anglers.
Driving up Lewis River Road (Highway 503) from Woodland, you’ll come to a boat launch in about 5 miles.
The Toutle’s confluence with the Cowlitz can be popular with anglers. To reach it, park on Steelhead Drive, off Old Pacific Highway north of Castle Rock, and walk under the freeway and railroad bridges.
The Grays River in western Wahkiakum County boasts the only covered bridge in Washington still in use.
The lower Lewis has three dams that form huge reservoirs: Lake Merwin, Yale Reservoir and Swift Reservoir. All have picnic grounds and boat launches operated by PacifiCorp, which also operates four campgrounds. For information, see lewisriver.com or www.pacificorp.com/about/ or/washington.html. Above the reservoirs, the Lewis flows freely through the woods in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, over a series of gushing waterfalls. For information on the falls and trail that links them, see www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/ recreation/waterfalls.
Starting about 15 miles east of Castle Rock, Spirit Lake Memorial Highway follows the Toutle for a sandy stretch. Stop at the Department of Fish and Wildlife Fish Collection Facility just east of Kid Valley for another look at the river In summer, hikers, mountain bikers and horse riders can walk about two miles down Road 3100, just east of the Hoffstadt Creek Bridge, to a wildlife refuge with more river access. That area is closed in winter.
Some of the best public access is near state fish hatcheries. The Beaver Creek Hatchery is about 6 miles up Elochoman River Road, with the Elochoman Hatchery another 4 miles upstream. The river flows into the Columbia at the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for Columbia White-tailed Deer, a few miles west of Cathlamet on Highway 4.
Grays River is about 42 miles west of Longview on Ocean Beach Highway. Shortly after crossing the Grays on the highway bridge, turn left on Loop Road to reach the covered bridge and the lower section of the Grays. Back roads wind along the lower Grays to where it flows into the Columbia. From the highway, Shannon Road heads north for a few miles along the river to a fish hatchery. 17
mountain biking and skate parks Mountain bike trails abound in scenic areas around Southwest Washington, providing an array of rides for beginners to well-pedaled pros.
The 8-foot-wide gravel trail is served by three parking lots, each named after a fish that populates the Cowlitz.
To reach the southernmost lot, named Chinook, drive one-third mile along Cook Ferry Road from West Side Highway. From the Chinook lot, the trail winds through dredge spoils dotted with clumps of Scotch broom. After half a mile, the trail reaches the river bank, then heads back inland to skirt a private residence before rejoining the river bank.
Castle Rock trails Starting at the parking area at the termination of Mosier Road, a paved biking/hiking path goes a few hundred yards to the playing field complex behind Castle Rock High School, then continues unpaved for another half mile or so. To lengthen the trip, head back to the parking area, ride down Mosier Road and take the paved river path that goes under the highway. The trail crosses Whittle Creek on a 55-foot-long metal bridge, which leads to a network of old dirt roads. Lions Pride Park offers another trail. Take Interstate 5 to Exit 48 and drive ¾ mile east on Huntington Avenue. The trail skirts the inland side of The Rock that gives the town its name, passing the town’s sewer plant, piles of dredge spoils from the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens, and parks for skateboarders and BMX riders. There’s a fishing pier under the highway bridge. H Cook Ferry Trail The 2.5-mile Cook Ferry Trail meanders along the west side of the Cowlitz south of Castle Rock, never far from Cook Ferry Road.
After another quarter-mile, you’ll come to the first “rest area,” with a picnic table, bench, barbecue grill and interpretive sign about Cowlitz River fishing. The route then follows Cook Ferry Road, which at this point is unpaved, to the Steelhead parking lot, which has a composting toilet. For the next half-mile, the trail parallels the road, though many tracks have been worn to the riverbank by legions of fishermen. The Cook Ferry Trail continues to the Smelt lot, which is 2.5 miles from the Chinook lot. The Smelt lot is accessible by Camelot Drive. HH Pacific Way Trail This dike-top patch winds more than two miles in west Longview. The path follows the south side of Drainage Ditch 6, which runs more or less parallel to Pacific Way. A good place to enter the path is from the Longview United Methodist Church parking lot at 30th and Pacific Way. The dike goes between the slough and backyards. Where the north end of 32nd Avenue intersects, there’s another access. West of here, the path takes on a more rustic flavor, with more water on one side and bigger fields on the other.
March through July, waterfowl nest in this location. About a mile from the start, you come to 38th Avenue. The path continues a few hundred yards and then hits the Mint Valley Golf Course, where a gate blocks the way. By riding on Pacific Way, it’s possible to pick up the trail again west of 42nd Street. HH Coweeman River trail For a simple ride with river views, beginners can try the Coweeman River trail. At 4 miles long, it winds along a dike west of the river. The longest uninterrupted part of the path starts at Talley Way, near the Tennant Way interchange. It’s about 1 ½ miles to where the path passes under the freeway. The prettiest part of the path is at the opposite end, starting from Allen Street east of Kelso High School. Or try access points at Grade Street and Tam O’Shanter Park. H
Skateboarders have several The Kelso Rotary Skate Park is a 10,000-square-foot concrete structure in a small park at the corner of Minor Road and Burcham Street in North Kelso. From I-5 Exit 39 (Allen Street) take the east frontage road (Kelso Drive) north for one block. Woodland’s skate park in Horseshoe Lake Park has a variety of steps and ramps. From Exit 21 of I-5, head west a block to Lakeshore Drive and turn left. 18
Trail maps: www.cowlitzonthemove.org/pdfs/Trail%20Map.pdf
T T T T T T T T T T T
Difficulty rating | Easy H Hard HHHHH
Lewis River Trail 31 One of the most popular trails in Southwest Washington, Lewis River Trail 31 is known as “the roller coaster” because of its end-to-end undulations. The trail parallels the river, traveling through luxuriant old-growth forest and offering eye-popping canyon views. For beginners, the best strategy is to leave one car at the lower trailhead off Road 9030 (see directions below) and take another to the Lower Falls Campground, located farther up Road 90. But beware. There are a number of nasty spots, some on the upper portion near the falls where a missed corner will result in a long tumble and another where the trail runs along a cliff. Directions: From Interstate 5, take Lewis River Road (503) east from Woodland (becomes Road 90 east of Cougar) 52.3 miles to Road 9039. Take a left on 9039 and drive 0.8 to the lower trailhead, just before the river crossing. HHHH Ape Canyon Trail 234 Ape Canyon Trail 234 opens with spectacular views of the Muddy River Lahar that rolled down the southeast side of St. Helens during the 1980 eruption, then climbs through old-growth forest. The ascent ends at Ape Canyon, which offers broad vistas of Mount Adams and the Smith Creek Basin. It’s 9.5 miles to a series of wooden steps, which are a turning-around point. Another 2 miles on logging road will take you to the Windy Ridge viewpoint. Directions: From Interstate 5, take the Lewis River Road (503) east from Woodland for 34 miles to Road 83. Go 11 miles on Road 83 to the Ape Canyon trailhead. HHHHH
Cowlitz River bike path Between the railroad tracks and Cowlitz River in central Kelso is a 1.8-mile-long paved path. The approved access points are a few blocks to the south at Mill and Yew streets. Neither has a designated parking spot, but you can park on Riverside Drive, west of the tracks at the Yew Street crossing. At the north end of the path, the paving stops at a point across from Barnes Street in North Kelso. You can keep on going north for a few hundred yards on a gravel road and end up in the Cowlitz Gardens neighborhood. H
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IP Road Some day, the old IP road along Yale Reservoir will be a nice, family friendly bicycling and walking path. For now, it’s a strenuous workout that requires pushing your bike over several slides and hoisting it over dozens of fallen trees. Still, for adventurous mountain bikers, the road provides access to beautiful spots along the deep green waters of the 3,800-acre lake.
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The old IP Road, originally operated by International Paper Co., stays mostly on the southeast Yale Reservoir shoreline for about 9 miles, then veers inland for another 3 miles, ending near Chelatchie. Eventually, PacifiCorp will fix up the road for non-motorized recreational use. For now, expect to cross slides and climb over downed trees to reach some nice picnic spots. In winter, getting over all the creeks may not be possible. To reach the IP Road, drive 2.3 miles past Cougar on the Lewis River Road, then turn right onto a gravel road. Quickly take another right and cross a bridge. The gate on the IP Road is a few hundred yards farther. HHHHH
local parks to challenge their balance Longview’s spot for skaters is in Cloney Park on Washington Way, west of the intersection with Nichols Boulevard. The park includes a spine, a pyramid, 6-foot quarter pipe and snake run. Winlock joined the skate park list when its facility opened last year. The park is next to Winlock Miller Elementary School. Rainier’s City Park on West A Street is yet another place for skaters, this one with a Columbia River view. The pre-fab structures sit atop blacktop.
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road biking Cyclists gearing up for big rides or bikers out for a scenic trip will appreciate Cowlitz County’s routes. Here are a few routes that are favorites with local riders. Kalama River Road This on Kalama River Road is relatively easy and offers scenic river views. However, the winding road has narrow shoulders in places, so it’s not a good place for children to ride. Start at the gravel park-and-ride just south of the intersection at Kalama River Road and Old Pacific Highway South. Travel east up Kalama River Road for 10 miles and turn around where the pavement ends, at the Weyerhaeuser gate. HH Tower Road Loop A great workout, this 30-mile loop travels up Spirit Lake Memorial Highway. Low traffic and rolling hills make this ride enjoyable, and the scenery is nice. The highway has good road shoulders, although Tower Road, which gets less traffic, isn’t as wide. The ride begins at the park and ride west of I-5 at Exit 49. Ride east on Spirit Lake Memorial Highway to Tower Road, and turn left. Tower Road loops around back to Spirit Lake Highway, at which point riders will travel right to go back to the park and ride. HHH Lexington-Headquarters Road This quick, rejuvenating 10-mile ride is great when you’re short on time. The ride features moderate, rolling hills and low traffic on roads with good shoulders.
Coal Creek-Delameter Loop The Coal Creek-Delameter Loop, a 26-mile loop, is not for the weak of thigh. It offers several climbs and descents with some rolling hills. However, it’s scenic ride and traffic is low to moderate. Many riders use this as a training ride for the Tour de Blast and Seattle-to-Portland events.
Start at Riverside Park off of West Side Highway and travel south to Sparks Drive. Travel over the I-5 overpass to Old Pacific Highway North. At Headquarters Road, turn right. Go left across I-5, left on Pleasant Hill Road and back to Old Pacific Highway North.
One place to start is at Willow Grove Park. Turn right out of the park on Willow Grove Road, then left on Willow Grove Connection Road to Dike Road. Cross Ocean Beach Highway to continue on Coal Creek Road and take a slight right to Woodside Drive and on to Delameter Road, then to Garlock.
Then turn right on Old Pacific Highway North to Sparks Drive, turn right at Sparks over I-5 to West Side Highway and back to Riverside Park. HH
Turn right on Garlock to Hazel Dell Road, and turn left. Ride to Delameter Road, and take a left back on to Delameter Road to where you started. HHHH
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Castle Rock-Toledo A relatively flat ride suitable for all ride levels is the Castle Rock-Toledo trip. Bikers can choose the length, going as far as they choose; the ride described here is about 28 miles. Nice road shoulders most of the way and low traffic add to the ride’s ease, and scenery will keep it enjoyable. Begin at the park and ride at Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, on the west side of I-5. Ride right out of the parking lot to the second light and turn right onto Old Pacific Highway North. Cross the Toutle River and over I-5 on to Barnes Road. Travel to the stop sign at Gee Gee’s Truck Stop, and travel right and continue over I-5. When you come to Jackson Highway, turn left to
Difficulty rating | Easy H Hard HHHHH
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3.5 miles). Turn right on South Silver Lake Road and travel until Davis Spur. Take Davis Spur to Headquarters Road and turn right. Enjoy the ride down Headquarters, pass over I-5 and turn left at Pleasant Hill Road. This takes you back to Old Pacific Highway North, and backtrack your original route to Sparks Drive, over I-5 to West Side Highway and back to Riverside Park. HHHH Willow Grove Loop
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The mighty Columbia River, peaceful pastureland and boat moorage are the vistas offered by the Willow Grove Loop. A 6-mile ride, the flat, low-traffic loop begins at Willow Grove Park, west of Longview. As an hour-long social ride, take two laps around Willow Grove at 12 mph. For a cardio workout, travel for three laps in an hour at 18 mph. The ride can be windy, with river breezes coming in from any direction. HH
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Seattle-to-Portland: Some of these recreational rides are great preparation for longer trips, such as the Seattle-to-Portland Bicycle Classic or Tour de Blast.
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This is the 32nd year cycling enthusiasts have been riding the STP’s 200-mile span between the cities. Up to 10,000 participants make the journey each year; this year’s race July 9-10, is sold out. Visit www.cascade. org/EandR/stp/ for more information. Ray Park just south of Toledo. You turn around here, and go back the way you came. HHH Lexington-Spirit Lake-Headquarters Also rated a 3.5 out of 5 on the difficulty scale is this fun 28-mile loop filled with beautiful valley views and long, gradual climbs. Some rolling hills and a swift decent on Headquarters Road make this another great loop for TDB/STP training. To take this ride, begin at Riverside Park in Lexington, off West Side Highway. Travel south on West Side Highway to Sparks Drive and turn left on Sparks, over the Interstate 5 overpass to Old Pacific Highway North. Turn left to Bond Road. Travel to Powell and turn left, then take an immediate right on Dorothy to Spirit Lake Memorial Highway. Turn right onto Spirit Lake Memorial Highway until you get to South Silver Lake Road (about
Tour de Blast: The newer and local Tour de Blast climbs from Toutle Lake High School’s parking lot up Mount St. Helens as far as Johnston Ridge viewpoint — 82 miles. However, beginning or intermediate cyclists can choose shorter rides at 33 miles and 54 miles, respectively. This year’s race is June 18. Visit www.tourdeblast.com for more information. Longview Grand Prix Criterium: Second-annual professional bike race around the Civic Center traffic circle. Eleven races on the flat, fast, half-mile course. Different categories and skill levels, cash purse and prizes. At least 200 riders are expected to participate. Put on by Highlander Cycling.
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Insider info Two local bike shops are good places to find out when group rides are planned. Bob’s Bike Shop is at 1111 Hudson St., or call 425-8520. Highlander Cycling is at 1313 Commerce Ave. 360-353-3760.
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art and music
The area’s visual beauty isn’t just in the mountains and rivers. Statues and stained glass perk up the local landscape, and local artists display their works in many galleries and businesses.
LCC art gallery
Art galleries
fountain by Jim Demetro, outside the Columbia Theatre.
Broadway Gallery: This cooperative gallery shows the works of its 50 members. Each month, the works of one or more of them are featured. Hours: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. MondaysFridays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays. 1418 Commerce Ave., Longview. Broderick Gallery: Works from England, Cuba and South Africa along with owner George Broderick’s own bright “overstated” paintings are shown in the new gallery. Gallery hours 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Fridays through Sundays and by appointment. 313 E. “B” St., Rainier. 503-703-5188. www.broderickgallery.com Longview Public Library: The basement Koth Gallery features rotating exhibits of works by local artists fall through spring. Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesdays; 10 a.m.6 p.m. Fridays; noon-6 p.m. Saturdays. Closed Sundays. 1600 Louisiana St. Lord & McCord Art Works: This gallery, which opened last year next door to the Broadway Gallery, has regular exhibits. 1416 Commerce Ave. 423-9100. Lower Columbia College Art Gallery: Exhibits by visiting artists are scheduled throughout the school year. Hours: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays; 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Wednesdays-Thursdays. In LCC’s Rose Center. Museo at the Merk: Works by members of The Columbian Artists Association are displayed in the windows of the Merk building at Commerce 22
“Thank You, Mr. Long,” a figure of city founder R.A. Long, at Broadway and Commerce. St. John Medical Center
and Broadway, Longview.
A beautiful cast glass work called “Cross of the Millennium,” along with a stained glass window and calligraphy pieces adorn the hospital lobby on Delaware Street.
Teague’s Interiors: The gallery at this Longview decorating business features regular exhibits. 1267 Commerce Ave., Longview.
For more information on Longview public artworks, see www.mylongview.com and click on visiting/attractions.
Public statues
Lower Columbia College
Several bronze statues spice up the Longview-Kelso area: “Handstand Boy,” artist unknown, outside the Longview Parks office at 2920 Douglas St., Longview. “Sacajawea,” by Jim Demetro, on Nichols Boulevard near the Hemlock Street foot bridge. “Fetch,” a life-sized dog sculpture by Georgia Gerber,” near the Hemlock Street foot bridge at Lake Sacajawea. “Twilight Reverence” and “Mother Bathing Child,” Native American figures by Jim Demetro, in front of the Hotel Monticello. “Story Time,” a figure of a young reader by Del’Esprie, outside the Longview Public Library. “Helping Hands,” a figure of kids at a drinking
The lobby of the college’s Rose Center for the Arts harbors a 10-by-40 foot mural by Portland artist Lucinda Parker. The college’s hallways and open spaces show dozens of other artworks. The college has produced a brochure with information on many of them. See www.lowercolumbia.edu. Click on Community/Arts and Entertainment/Art Gallery. Downtown murals Murals of Longview founding fathers painted by Barbara Lancaster are at several downtown Longview locations. Six founders of Longview on wall of US Bank at 15th and Commerce. Longview’s first police chief, H.W. Jackson, and first mayor, A.L. Gibbs, outside Country Folks Deli, 1329 Commerce. City founder R.A. Long outside Father’s House at 1323 Commerce Ave. First fire chief, Harry Clarke, outside main Longview fire station.
2011 Summer Concerts at the Lake
jazz standards. www.themoes.com
This year’s summer concerts at Lake Sacajawea feature ’70s rock, ’80s rock, a Neil Diamond tribute and, by popular demand, a guy who looks and sounds like John Denver.
From Beatles to Billy Idol July 28: The Shwing Daddies, play rock all the way from Beatles and Crosby Stills and Nash to Billy Idol. Listeners are invited to dance and sing along. www.shwingdaddies.com
Admission is free to the concerts, which run from 6 to 8 p.m. Thursdays at Martin Dock. People bring blankets, low-backed chairs and picnics, and service clubs sell food.
Shining like Neil Diamond Aug. 4: If you like Neil Diamond, you should like Cherry Cherry, which does a tribute to the man who sang “Sweet Caroline” and “Soliltary Man.”
John Denver tribute July 7: Ted Vigil and his band were the most popular concert last summer, so they’ve been booked for a return engagement. The most heard comments after his shows are, “I can’t believe how much he looks and sounds like John Denver, it really took us back!” www.tedvigil.com
have fun rockin’, and people like rockin’ with us.” www.RadicalRevolutionPDX.com
80s rock
Horn-driven show band
July 14: Radical Revolution ’80’s Music Revolt has a repertoire of more than 100 cover songs of all genres of rock. Their message: “We rock, we
July 21: 5 Guys named Moe, a 12-piece horndriven dance and show band, play Motown, disco, soul, R&B, rock, swing, big band and even some
www.cherrycherryband.com Irish pub jigs Aug. 11: State & Standard, a Celtic and Irish pub band, plays blazing jigs and reels, even if no Guiness can be served at the lake. www.stateandstandard.com Country classics Aug. 18: The Rolling Blackouts play traditional country classics and folk tunes by the likes of George Jones, Hank Williams, Bob Dylan and John Prine. www.tombennettmusic.com
Wind through the forests of Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Rainier before descending to the arid landscape of Eastern Washington.
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campgrounds There are plenty of places to set up camp or park an RV throughout the Lower Columbia region. Choose your ideal home away from home.
Cowlitz County Seaquest State Park: The park is open yearround for camping. The park has tent spaces, utility spaces, five yurts, a dump station, restrooms and showers. The north, south and mid-camp loops are in forest settings. Reservations are suggested in the summer. To reserve a campsite, call 888-226-7688 or go to www.parks.wa.gov. Only six miles east of Castle Rock, the park can be reached by taking exit 49 from Interstaet 5 and following Highway 504 east. County Line Park: Located where Wahkiakum and Cowlitz counties meet on Ocean Beach Highway, 11 miles west of Longview. The 5.5-acre park, which sits on the banks of the Columbia River, has RV and tent camping. It operates on a first-come, first-served basis. Water, electricity and bathrooms are available. Cresap Bay Park: This gem is one of the nicest campgrounds on the Lewis River, located on the east end of Merwin Reservoir. Campsites are nestled in good-sized trees, and there’s a group camping area. While there’s a dump station, there are no RV hook-ups at campsites. Bathrooms and showers are available. The view extending 7 miles down the lake is the best of the parks on Merwin. There’s a double boat launch and mooring area, as well as a swimming beach. The grassy picnic area is popular with sunbathers, and there’s a 2-mile nature trail winding around the park that passes beaver ponds and a cedar swamp. The park is open from the Friday before Memorial Day through Sept. 30. Take Highway 503 for 23 miles east of Woodland, where the road makes a right turn, and drive three miles south to the campground. Reservations are required; camping fees are $20 a night. For reservations, call 503-813-6666. 24
Cougar Park and Cougar Camp: These attractions straddle little Cougar Creek, which is just east of the town of Cougar, 29 miles from the freeway. The park, open from the Friday before Memorial Day through Labor Day, has a grassy sunning area, a fishing dock and picnic tables in the woods. There’s a separate entrance to the camp, which has tent-only sites. RVs and trailers aren’t allowed. Some sites are on the lake. The camp also has a boat launch, though the one at Yale Park is more popular. Reservations are required; camping fees are $20 a night. For reservations, call 503-813-6666. Beaver Bay Campground: The sites at this campground at the upper end of Yale Reservoir aren’t as secluded as those at other nearby campgrounds. There’s a single boat launch. The area is open from the last Saturday of April through Sept. 30. It’s 31 miles from the freeway. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Camping fees are $20 a night. Pacific County Cape Disappointment State Park: This large state park is open year-round for camping. The campground has more than 150 standard campsites as well as more than 80 utility sites, five primitive campsites, a dump station, restrooms and showers. The park also offers historic lighthouse keepers’ houses to rent and cabins and yurts for camping. Reservations are encouraged at this popular state campground. To reserve a campsite, call 888-226-7688 or go to www. parks.wa.gov. The park is 2 miles southwest of Ilwaco. Wahkiakum County Skamokawa Vista Park: The 70-acre Skamokawa Vista Park lies along the Columbia River on the western edge of this Wahkiakum County town. The campground has RV and tent camping. Some sites have full hook-up. There’s also a playground, playing field and basketball and tennis courts. A day-use area along the river has windbreaks for the tables. A trail from the park goes about a half mile downstream to a rocky beach. For more information, call 360 795-8605. Lewis County Iron Creek Campground: Located near Randle in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, this campground is popular with people visiting the east side of Mount St. Helens. Located along Iron
Creek and the Cispus River, the campground is nestled among old-growth trees. RV and tent camping is available, as are bathrooms. There is no dump station and the campground is closed during the winter. Reservations can be made. For more information, call 360-569-0519. Rainbow Falls State Park: The park is open year-round for camping. The park has tent spaces, a dump station, one restroom, two showers and eight hook-up sites. Three of the sites are for hikers and cyclists (no vehicles), and three are for horse campers. All campsites are first-come, first-served. The group camping site can be reserved. Located 17 miles west of Chehalis, the park can be reached by taking exit 77 from I-5. Lewis and Clark State Park: The park is open year-round for camping, but some campsites are closed in the winter. The park has tent spaces, restrooms and showers. All campsites are first-come, first-served. Two group camps can be reserved by calling 360-864-2643. The park is 12 miles south of Chehalis off the I-5 corridor. From I-5, take exit 68 and head east on Highway 12 about 2.5 miles. At Jackson Highway, turn right, heading south about 2 miles to the park entrance. Ike Kinswa State Park: The park is open year-round for camping but some campsites are closed in the winter. The park has standard sites as well as full hook-up sites. It also has five cabins, a dump station, restrooms and showers. Reservations are suggested in the summer. To reserve a campsite, call 888-226-7688 or go to
Skamania County Lower Falls Recreation Area Campground: Lower Falls Campground is deep in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, east Cougar off Forest Road 90. The wooded campground sits in a stand of towering Douglas fir and hemlock. RV and tent sites are available. The recreation area features a hiking trail leading to the falls. No flush toilets or dump stations are available. The campground is closed during the winter. It operates on a first-come, first-served basis. For more information, call the Mount St. Helens Ranger District, 360-449-7800.
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Swift Forest Camp: This big campground sits amid big trees. Sites are available on a firstcome, first-served basis. It also has the only public boat launch on Swift Reservoir, which is stocked with rainbow trout. The campground is open from the last Friday of April through end of hunting season in November. It’s 46 miles from the freeway. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Camping fees are $17 a night.
www.parks.wa.gov. The park is 4 miles north of Mossyrock. From I-5, take exit 68 and follow the signs. Clark County Paradise Point State Park: The park is open year-round for camping. The park has tent spaces, utility sites, two yurts, a dump station, restrooms and showers. Some of the campsites are in a grassy area, and nine primitive sites are in the woods. This campground is close to I-5, so use the wooded campsites for less noise from the interstate. Several miles of riverside hiking, too. Sites have no hook-ups. To reserve a campsite, call (888) 226-7688 or go to www.parks.wa.gov. The park is six miles south of Woodland. From I-5, take exit 16 and follow signs a mile to the park. Battleground Lake State Park: In Clark County: This small state park is open year-round for camping. It has standard campsites as well as six hook-up sites, four cabins and some primitive sites requiring campers to hike a quarter mile to a half mile from the parking lot. The campground has a dump station, restrooms and showers. The group campsite includes four Adirondack shelters. A primitive horse camp also is available by reservation. To reserve a campsite, call 888-226-7688 or go to www.parks.wa.gov. From I-5, take exit 11 and drive east to Battle Ground. Follow the signs to the park, which is about three miles west of Battle Ground.
Hudson-Parcher Park: Located one mile northwest of Rainier on Larson Road, this nearby Columbia County park offers some forest and field campsites. The wooded park also has a cabin that can be rented. For reservations, call 503-366-3984, or go to www.co.columbia. or.us/parks/. Clatskanie City Park: This city-owned park on the Clatskanie River has some RV and tent sites for camping. Restrooms and showers are available. Also in the park are a swimming pool, lighted tennis courts, picnic area, playground, horse arena and boat launch and fishing area. The city park is at 300 N.E. Park St. For more information, contact the Clatskanie Park and Recreation Department at 503-728-2038. L.L. Stub Stewart State Park: One of Oregon’s newest state parks, this campground has a variety of sites, from primitive campsites and tent sites to full hook-up sites and two-room cabins. Among the amenities are full hook-up sites with horse corrals. The campground has bathrooms and showers. For reservations, call 800-4525687 or go to www.oregonstateparks.org. Fort Stevens State Park: One of the nation’s largest public campgrounds, this popular state park on the mouth of the Columbia River has everything from standard tent sites to full hookup RV sites. The campground also has some 15 yurts, bathrooms and showers, and an RV dump station. But don’t be fooled by the campground’s size — reservations are still recommended, especially during the summer season. The state park is off U.S. Highway 101, 10 miles west of Astoria. For reservations, call 800-452-5687 or go to www.oregonstateparks.org.
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golf
Three Rivers Golf Course
Mint Valley Golf Course
Lewis River Golf
2222 S. River Road Kelso, WA 98626 360-423-4653 Established: 1983 Total length: 6,700 yards Type: Public (owned by KelsoLongview Elks Lodge) Par for men and women: 72/72 Daily rate: $29 for 18 holes; $24 for seniors. Annual season pass: Elks members: $1,150; Public: $1,300 adult, $1,225 seniors, $1,800 couple, $1,600 senior couples, $375 juniors. Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor license, food service. Web: www.3rivers.us
4002 Pennsylvania St. Longview, WA 98632 360-442-5442 Established: 1976 Total length: 6,432 yards Type: Public (owned by City of Longview) Par for men and women: 71/71 Daily rate: Weekends $28, $22 for seniors Annual season pass: $1,260 adults, $1,820 couples, $989 seniors, $1,428 senior couples, $390 juniors, $237 summer juniors. Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor license, food service. Web: www.mint-valley.com
3209 Lewis River Road Woodland, WA 98674 360-225-8254 Established: 1967 Total length: 6,363 yards Type: Public Par for men and women: 72/73 Daily rate: $35 for 18 holes, $27 for juniors and seniors. Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, banquet facility, liquor license, food service. Web: www.lewisrivergolf.com
Longview Country Club 41 Country Club Drive Longview, WA 98632 360-425-3132 Established: 1926 Total length: 6,220 yards Type: Private Par for men and women: 70/71 Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, banquet facility, liquor license, food service. 26
Surfside Golf Course 31508 J Place Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-4148 Established: 1969 Total length: 2,960 yards (9 holes) Type: Public Par for men and women: 36/36 Daily rate: $18 for 9 holes and $32 for 18 holes; seniors $15 for 9 holes and $28 for 18 holes Monday through Thursday; juniors $10 Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor license, food service.
St. Helens Golf Course 57246 Hazen Road Warren, OR 97053 503-397-0358 Established: 1964 Total length: 2,977 yards (9 holes) Type: Public Par for men and women: 36/36 Daily rate: $13 weekday and $15 weekend for 9 holes Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor license, food service.
Skyline Golf Course 20 Randall Drive Cathlamet, WA 98612 360-795-8785 Established: 1971 Total length: 2,313 yards (9 holes) Type: Public Par for men and women: 35/35 Daily rate: $10 for 9 holes, $18 for 18 holes; Monday through Thursday $25 for 18 holes with cart and bucket of balls. Features: Pro shop, golf lessons, clubhouse, liquor license, food service. Web: www.publicgolfcourses.net
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festivals Almost every summer weekend, a family oriented community festival is going on somewhere in the Lower Columbia area. So plan your excursions to watch everything from frog-jumping to fireworks. Most events are free. MAY May 19-22: Astoria Bicentennial Opening Events (www.astoria200. org) May 27-30: World’s Longest Garage Sale in Long Beach. (360-6422400 or www.funbeach.com) May 28: SummerFest with clowns, face painting, musicians, contests and vendors, held every weekend in Long Beach through Sept. 5. (360642-2400 or www.funbeach.com)
JUNE June 4: Rods and Reels Classic Car and Motorcycle Show and Sturgeon Fishing Derby and BBQ at the Wahkiakum County Fairgrounds. (360-795-9996 or www.wahkiakumchamber.com) June 4: 21st Annual International Festival at Lower Columbia College in Longview. (360-751-4427 or www.ethnicsupportcouncil.org) June 4-5: 11th Annual Winlock Pickers Fest at Winolequa Park in Winlock. (360-785-4932) June 9: Thirteen Nights on the River in Columbia View Park in St. Helens. Every Thursday through Sept. 1. (www.sccchamber.org) June 11: Waikiki Beach Concert Series at Cape Disappointment State Park. Free concerts every other Saturday through Aug. 27. (360-642-3029 or www.funbeach. com) June 16-19: Woodland Planter’s Days with parade, rides, frog-jumping contest and classic car show. (www.lewisriver.com/plantersdays/) June 17-19: Scandinavian Midsummer Festival at Clatsop County Fairgrounds. (www.astoriascanfest. com) June 17-26: Annual Astoria Festival of Music at historic Liberty Theater featuring operatic, symphonic and chamber music performances. (www.astoriamusicfestival.org) 28
June 18: “Spirit of the Northwest”
Kiwanis Parade in St. Helens. (www. sccchamber.org) June 18: 34th Annual Beach Chowder Run/Walk in Long Beach. (360-642-2400 or www.funbeach. com) June 19-20: 30th Annual Northwest Garlic Festival in Ocean Park. (www.opwa.com) June 24-25: Fifth Annual Doggie Olympic Games in Long Beach. (360642-2400 or www.funbeach.com) June 24-26: The Smoky Water Follies Show with music, entertainment and family fun, in Skamokawa. (360-795-8770) June 24-26: Winlock Egg Days in Winlock. (winlockeggday.blogspot. com/) June 25: Music in the Gardens on the Long Beach Peninsula. (360642-2400 or www.funbeach.com) June 26: Heritage Days Cruise Car Show and Pie in the Park at Clatskanie City Park. (www.clatskanie. com/chamber/)
JULY July 1-4: Go 4th Celebration in Longview with parade, street fair, kids activities and fireworks. (www. gofourthfestival.org) July 2-4: Clatskanie Heritage Days Festival and 4th of July Parade. (503-728-4248) July 2: Third Annual Great Cardboard Boat Regatta at Lake Sacajawea in Longview. (www.tdn. com) July 2: Independence Day Fireworks at the Port of Ilwaco. (360642-2400 or www.funbeach.com) July 4: Summerfest at Fort Borst Park in Centralia. (www.chamberway.com) July 4: Vernonia parade and fireworks. July 4: 4th of July celebration in St. Helens. (www.sccchamber.org) July 4: Old Fashioned 4th of July Parade in Ocean Park. (www.opwa. com)
July 4: Independence Day Fireworks on the Beach in Long Beach. (360-642-2400 or www.funbeach. com) July 4: Fourth of July Parade in Warrenton and Astoria. (www. oldoregon.com) July 7-10: Rainier Days in the Park. July 9-10: Toledo Cheese Days. July 13-17: Columbia County Fair and Rodeo in St. Helens. (www. columbiacountyfairandrodeo. com/home.html) July 14-16: Castle Rock Fair, with parade, vendors, youth activities, music and more, at Castle Rock Fairgrounds. July 15-17: Napavine Funtime Festival with parade and car show. (360-262-3887) July 16: Kalama River-to-River Run Challenge. (kalamachamber.com or 360-673-6299) July 16-17: Clamshell Rail Road Days at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum in Ilwaco. (360-6422400 or www.funbeach.com) July 16-17: Bald Eagle Days in Cathlamet with parade, old car show, street fair and fireworks. (360-795-9996 or www.wahkiakumchamber.com) July 17: Wooden Boat Show and Salmon BBQ in Cathlamet. (360795-3501) July 20-24: 27th Annual SandStations in Long Beach. (360-6422400 or www.funbeach.com) July 21-23: Kalama Community Fair and Parade. (www.kalamachamber.com or 360-673-6299) July 23: Castle Rock Mountain Mania with logger dinner and street fair. July 29-31: 66th Annual Long Beach Rodeo, Peninsula Saddle Club in Long Beach. (360-6422400 or www.funbeach.com) July 30: Clatskanie Rhythm on the River Blues Fest at Clatskanie City Park (www.clatskanie.com/ chamber/)
Come Join the Fun at the annual
AUGUST Aug. 3-7: Clatsop County Fair at the fairgrounds in Astoria. (www. clatsopfairgrounds.com) Aug. 5-8: Cowlitz County Fair and Rodeo at the fairgrounds in Longview. (www.cowlitzcountyfair. com)
Aug. 18-20: Wahkiakum County Fair at the Wahkiakum County Fairgrounds in Skamokawa. (360795-3480) Aug. 19-21: Kalama All-City Yard Sale. Aug. 21: Untouchables Car show in Kalama. (www.kalamachamber. com or 360-673-6299)
Sept. 14-18: Astoria Super Homecoming to celebrate Bicentennial (www.astoria200.org) Sept. 16-18: Blues by the Sea at Clatsop County Fairgrounds in Astoria. (www.bluesbythesea.com)
Aug. 26-28: Threshing Bee, an oldtime tractor pull in Toledo.
Sept. 17: Coast Goast Open House and Port of Astoria Air Fair to celebrate Centennial of Naval Aviation Air Station Show. (www. portofastoria.com)
Aug. 5-14: Clark County Fair at fairgrounds in Ridgefield. (www. clarkcofair.com/)
Aug. 26-28: Chehalis Garlic Fest and Craft Show. (www.chehalisgarlicfest.com)
Sept. 17: 22nd Annual Scappoose Sauerkraut Festival. (www.scappoosecommunity.org)
Aug. 6: Oregon Tuna Classic in Ilwaco. (360-642-2400 or www. funbeach.com)
Aug. 27-29: Clatskanie Bluegrass Festival at Clatskanie City Park and Copes Park. (www.clatskanie. com/chamber/)
Sept. 24: Cowlitz Indian Pow Wow at St. Mary’s Center in Toledo. (Contact Suzanne Donaldson-Stephens, 360-280-2321)
Aug. 27: Annual Unique Tin Car Show and Swap Meet with controlled cruise to follow in Longview.
Sept. 30: Columbia River Country Days, at various locations around Wahkiakum County, to include a farmer’s market, farm tours, old-time auction and dinner. (360795-3278)
Aug. 5-7: Annual Vernonia Friendship Jamboree and Logging Show. (www.vernoniachamber.org)
Aug. 6: Grays River Covered Bridge Celebration in Grays River. (www. welcometowahkiakum.com) Aug. 6: Longview Grand Prix Criterium bike race around Longview’s Civic Center traffic circle. (www.highlander-cycling.com/criterium.html) Aug. 10-14: 116th Astoria Regatta Maritime Magic in Astoria. (www. astoriaregatta.org) Aug. 11-13: Kalama Lions Club Yard Sale. (kalamachamber.com or 360-673-6299) Aug. 11-14: The 69th Annual Loggers Jubilee in Morton. (www. loggersjubilee.com) Aug. 12-13: Blues & Seafood in Ilwaco. (360-642-2400 or www. funbeach.com) Aug. 12-14: Mount St. Helens Bluegrass Festival in Toledo. (www. washingtonbluegrassassociation. org/2010fest/index.php) August 12-14: Annual Seaside beach volleyball tournament. (www.seasidebeachvolleyball.com) Aug. 14: Annual Jazz and Oysters celebration in Oysterville. (360642-2400 or www.funbeach.com) Aug 15-21: Washington State International Kite Festival in Long Beach. (1-800-451-2542) Aug. 16-21: Southwest Washington Fair in Chehalis. (www.southwestwashingtonfair.net.)
Aug. 27: Lower Columbia Classic Car Club Astoria Regatta in downtown Astoria. (www.nwcoast.com) Aug. 27: Hub City Car Show in Centralia. (www.chamberway.com)
SEPTEMBER Sept. 3-5: 6th Annual Chinook Art Festival. (360-642-2400 or www. funbeach.com) Sept. 3-5: Civil War re-enactment at Fort Stevens State Park. (www. visitftstevens.com) Sept. 4: Buzzard’s Breath Chili Cook-off in Cathlamet. (360-7959996 or www.wakiakumchamber. com) Sept. 8-11: Wheels and Waves Car Show in Seaside. (www/seaside/org) Sept. 9: Slow Drag at the Port of Ilwaco. (360-642-2400 or www. funbeach.com) Sept. 10-11: Rod Run to the End of the World car show in Ocean Park. (www.opwa.com) Sept. 10-11: Highlander Festival in Kelso. (www.highlander.kelso.gov/) Sept. 11: Kalama Art Walk. (www. kalamachamber.com or 360-6734696)
July 2 - 3 - 4
lake Sacajawea, longview 3rd annual
“go Fourth” golF tournament
June 27, 2011
Three Rivers Golf
Cardboard boat regatta Saturday, July 2 at 11:00am
Parade
Monday, July 4 at 10:00am
timber Carnival
Monday, July 4 Preliminaries at 9:00am Finals at 1:00pm
OCTOBER Oct. 1-Nov. 15: Wild Mushroom Celebration on the Long Beach Peninsula. (360-642-2400 or www.funbeach.com) Oct. 7: Peninsula Art Association Fall Show in Long Beach. (360642-2400 or www.funbeach.com) Oct 8-9: 91th Annual Cranberrian Fair at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum and the Cranberry Museum on the Long Beach Peninsula. (360-642-2400 or www. funbeach.com) Oct. 8-9: One Sky, One World Kite Festival in Long Beach. (360-6424020) Oct. 14-16: Water Music Festival XXVII consists of five concerts, including a free event Oct. 16. (www. watermusicfestival.com) Oct. 22-23: Graveyard of the Pacific Shipwreck Events at the Columbia River Maritime Museum, Fort Stevens State Park, Cape Disappointment State Park and Fort Columbia State Park. (www.funbeach.com)
kid’s Fest July 2, 3 & 4
Fireworks
July 4 at 10:00pm
market PlaCe
July 2, 3 & 4
20 non-ProFit Food vendors July 2, 3 & 4
entertainment
July 2, 3 & 4 www.gofourthfestival.org
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longview A cluster of historic buildings around Longview’s Civic Center and on nearby Commerce Avenue are among the city’s attractions. Most shopping opportunities in the region are now in Longview, with big box stores and several strip malls. The city also holds the most popular park at Lake Sacajawea.
Civic Circle The Longview Civic Circle makes its way around R.A. Long Park, passing the historic Longview Public Library, Monticello Hotel and post office. (On Olympia Avenue, to the northwest of the library, don’t forget to see the Nutty Narrows Bridge, quite possibly the only squirrel bridge in the world.) The circle was designed as part of R.A. Long’s planned city, pointing travelers to downtown, the industrial area and residential areas. You can reach the circle by taking 15th Avenue to Washington Way. Head west on Washington Way and follow the circle around.
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History Longview was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 because it’s one of the nation’s few planned industrial cities. Several downtown buildings were named to the register, including the Columbia Theatre for the Performing Arts and the Big Four Furniture Building at 1329 Commerce Ave., built in 1924 and now a restaurant. The Columbia River Mercantile, at the corner of Commerce Avenue and Broadway, functioned as Longview’s first store and as the headquarters of the Long-Bell Lumber Co. when it was built in 1923. It’s been restored to resemble
what it looked like in the city’s early days. Inside are gift shops and the Longview Reading Room, a repository of local history. And across the street is the old Long-Bell whistle, which regulated the workday of hundreds of local lumber mill workers for decades. For more information, a brochure available at the Chamber of Commerce offers a self-guided walking tour. Columbia Theatre The Columbia Theatre is one of the area’s foremost architectural gems, built in 1925. It recently reopened after an $11 million renovation. With
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Lake Sacajawea Lake Sacajawea is to Longview what Central Park is to New York City. This long, skinny body of water with its broad, green lawns is the place to be when the sun is shining. Its graveled path is the best route in town to walk or run; it’s four
miles all the way around. Trout are stocked in the lake in spring and summer, making it attractive for young folks with fishing poles. The 60-acre park holds no less than 119 species of trees. In the fall, the leaf colors shouldn’t be missed. Among the park’s features are the beautiful Japanese Gardens at the north end of the park and the Solar System Walk, created by the local astronomy club. Granite markers along the walk show the relative distances of the planets from the sun. Pick up a guide to the park’s trees and planet walk at the Chamber of Commerce or Parks Department at 2920 Douglas St.
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its Italian Renaissance style, chandeliers and intricate ornamentation and grillwork, what is now the Columbia Theatre for the Performing Arts represents the elegance of an era long past. Visit www.columbiatheatre.com to view scheduled events, or call the theater at 360-575-8499.
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longview Gerhart Gardens Gerhart Gardens Park is a 14-acre park on the Cowlitz River that’s popular on hot summer days, when the river level drops to expose broad sandy beaches. Families can enjoy using the picnic tables, horseshoe pits, basketball hoops, sand volleyball court and playground equipment. There’s also a boat ramp, but the area in front is often silted in, making launching tricky. Gerhart Gardens is the home of the city’s only off-leash dog park, a three-acre, fenced area at the entrance to the park. Remember to clean up after your dog and follow the doggie rules posted. The park is just north of the Longview Wye, off Tennant Way (SR 432) at the foot of the Harry Morgan Bridge. Triangle Center The Triangle center, the busiest generalpurpose shopping area in town, is in a three-sided area bordered by 15th Avenue, Washington Way and Ocean Beach Highway, each a commercial avenue. The largest tenant is Winco, a spartan, 92,000-square foot, low-priced grocery store. The Triangle also includes an Applebee’s restaurant, Ross Dress for Less, Michael’s, PetCo and Lane Bryant.
LCC Rose Center With two major performance spaces and an art gallery, the Rose Center for the Arts opened at Lower Columbia College in 2008. The $24.6 million building features a 525seat auditorium, a 125-seat thrust theater, a rehearsal hall, an art gallery and an audio technology recording lab, in addition to classrooms, practice rooms and faculty offices.
Downtown With dozens of independently owned businesses, downtown Longview boasts a lot of character. It’s a changing shopping scene, with new businesses springing up from time to time. The principal downtown intersection is Commerce and Broadway, which among other things has the Columbia River Mercantile, with gift shops, offices and an ice cream parlor. Stroll through downtown and you’ll find a pet store, bead shop, a cooperative art gallery, furniture, banks and restaurants. A couple of blocks away at 11th Avenue and Hudson Street is the homegrown Bob’s Sporting Goods, which is the largest outdoors store in the region.
The Rose Center is arguably the most elegant public building in Cowlitz County, with sweeping expanses of wood paneling and a mural by nationally recognized painter Lucinda Parker in the lobby. The Wollenberg Auditorium is considered the best hall for music performance in Southwest Washington, with state-of-the-art acoustics that can be adjusted by moving overhead panels. The smaller, 125-seat Center Stage auditorium for plays has a “thrust” configuration, with seats on three sides of the stage. http://lowercolumbia.edu/community/artand-entertainment/rose-center-for-arts/
Willow Grove A favorite site for launching personal watercraft on the Columbia River, Willow Grove Park has developed into a year-round site used by swimmers, picnickers, walkers and boaters. On summer evenings, kiteboarders can often be seen, too. The 60-acre park has big parking lots and numerous picnic tables with fire rings. A small picnic shelter can be found near the center of the park. A barrier-free asphalt trail nearly a mile long runs along the shore. There’s a beach volleyball area 32
at the west end of the park, and the winds off the river make this a favorite spot for flying a kite. Cargo ships draw near on their way to and from the ocean. They add to the scenery; however, their wakes make swimming very dangerous. The park is open 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. in summer. To reach it from Ocean Beach Highway, turn south onto Willow Grove Connector Road and then right onto Willow Grove Road.
Bring your camera For the best overview of the area, head over the Lewis and Clark Bridge, built in the 1920s and airy at 195 feet high. When you reach the Oregon side, head west, uphill on Highway 30. Pull off in one of the turnoffs to see the Longview-Kelso area, mills, ships at anchor and all. On clear days, you’ll see Mount St. Helens looming in the east and Mount Rainier in the distance.
Downtown Longview Small town atmosphere that’s appealing to residents & visitors. Offering a safe, comfortable & inviting gathering place with shopping, restaurants, galleries & beautiful streetscapes. The
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kelso A thriving town before Longview was even built, Kelsoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history figures into several attractions. Scottish land surveyor Peter Crawford arrived in the Cowlitz Valley area in 1847 and registered the first donation land claim on the Cowlitz River. He founded the city of Kelso in 1884.
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Cowlitz County Historical Museum
409371
The Cowlitz County Historical Museum features permanent exhibits on the early days of this area, including an authentic pioneer cabin and replicas of a general store and logging bunkhouse. There’s even a 1913 International truck that used to cart mail from Kelso to Castle Rock. Special exhibits rotate through one hall — a current one includes a model of the ferry Tacoma that carried trains across the Columbia River at Kalama, a 1929 Model AA Ford truck, a new 25-foot Cowlitz Indian canoe, and a made replica of a prairie schooner. The museum, 405 Allen Street, is open Tuesdays through Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is free; donations are welcome. For more information, call 577-3119 or go to www.co.cowlitz.wa.us/museum/ Three Rivers Mall
historic Downtown The Kelso train station has been a longstanding centerpiece to downtown Kelso. The station was built in 1911 and renovated in 1996. The station, on First Avenue, has several shops and offices, as well as a place to wait for Amtrak trains. Nearby is Kelso City Hall, which features a lofty lobby and historical artifacts from town, such as a giant wheel-lift from the old Allen Street Bridge and an antique stainedglass window from Peter’s Restaurant, which used to be across the street. Downtown businesses include Kelso Hardware & Marine, several taverns and a Mexican restaurant. A bright spot is the Backstage Cafe, a spiffy restaurant/bar next to the Kelso Theater Pub. The theater shows movies that tend to get overlooked by the local cineplexes and serves beer, wine and pizza. Tam O’Shanter Park
The Catlin Rotary Spray Park in West Kelso operates for free throughout the summer.
“Tam O,” as the locals say, is a 41-acre park along the Coweeman River. The park has several ball fields and basketball courts, not to mention horseshoe pits, a playground and picnic tables. Many people enjoy a walk or bike ride along the graveled path atop the park’s dike, which runs along the river. The park is the site of the annual Kelso Highlander Festival, which is Sept. 10-11 this year. It’s also the site of Stan Rister Stadium, which seats 500 baseball enthusiasts.
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Kelso is home to Three Rivers Mall, the largest enclosed shopping mall in Cowlitz County. Next to I-5, the mall is anchored by Macy’s department store, J.C. Penney and Sears. Other stores at the mall range from gifts to outdoor decor. Earlier this year, the Kelso Public Lirbrary moved to a 11,627-squarefoot space in the mall. Library hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays and Tuesdays and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays. Learn more about the mall at www.threeriversmall.com. Across the freeway from the mall is a shopping complex that includes Splits, a bowling alley, miniature golf course and entertainment center.
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kalama
A distinctly Northwest town with a tropical name, Kalama is known for its abundance of antique shops, small-town friendliness and Hollywood movie shoots. Straddling Interstate 5 off of Exit 30, the town is named after John Kalama, a Hawaiian who hunted, fished and trapped in the area more than a century ago. 36
Camp and fish North of town, Camp Kalama offers year-round camping at the Kalama River. The Kalama River supports runs of steelhead and salmon, with relatively good public bank access. Nearby Kress Lake on Old Pacific Highway off of Kalama River Road is stocked with trout and surplus steelhead. During salmon seasons, anglers fish on the Columbia River banks and crowd the marina at the Port of Kalama. plenty of Parks The Port of Kalama offers recreational facilities with a 222slip marina, a five-acre day-use park and a two-mile walking path. A totem pole located at the marina park stands 140 feet tall and is listed in the “Guinness Book of World Records” as the tallest one-piece totem in the world. The park and marina are accessible by foot via a walking bridge over the railroad tracks at the south end of town. Antiques abound Open seven days a week, numerous antique dealers offer a large selection of antiques and collectibles. Free maps of the city are available at all of Kalama’s stores. ‘Twilight’ movie scenes Kalama High School, 548 China Garden Road. Used as the school in the vampire flick “Twilight,” the town’s functioning high school has become a popular destination for followers of the popular books and movies.
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castle rock
Any trip to Castle Rock, the Gateway to Mount St. Helens, should begin with a visit to the rock that gave this small town its name. The city is named for a large volcanic rock formation along the Cowlitz River that locals say resembles an old castle. The Rock, as it is affectionately called, rises 200 feet above the surrounding area. It was once used as a geographical landmark for early travelers along the river. Today, The Rock has been preserved for the community and its visitors. Historical markers are at the base of The Rock, at the intersection of Huntington Avenue South and Front Avenue. Visitors can hike the trail that winds its way to the top or take a break at The Rock Community Park. To get to The Rock, take I-5 to Exit 49 and go west into town on Huntington Avenue. Park at Lions Pride Park.
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Lions Pride Park, on Huntington Avenue South, serves as the trailhead for the east side of Castle Rock’s Riverfront Trail. The walking and biking trail takes visitors past The Rock and along the Cowlitz River. Trails are on both sides of the river. The trail on the east side is a 1.7-mile lighted, paved path that extends just past the PH10 bridge. The trail includes viewing areas, benches, picnic tables and a small playground. The trail passes the town’s sewer plant, piles of dredge spoils from the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens, and parks for skateboarders and BMX riders. There’s also a fishing pier under the highway bridge. On the west side of the Cowlitz River, the trail is constructed of compacted gravel, from the PH10 bridge to the mouth of Whittle Creek and a paved path from PH10 bridge to the Castle Rock Sports Complex.
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Downtown Castle Rock’s historic downtown features a wide variety of shops, antique stores, restaurants and other attractions, including the Castle Rock Exhibit Hall and Visitor’s Information Center. The exhibit hall, located in a large white building at 147 Front Ave. N.W, includes displays explaining the mudflows and the volcano’s impact on the Castle Rock area. It’s also a historical museum for north Cowlitz County, with displays on logging and rivers. Exhibits include a working replica of a sawmill, a 1890s buggy and a Bigfoot display. The exhibit hall also has pictures of Castle Rock High School graduates since 1900. Admission is free. To get to the Castle Rock Exhibit Hall, take I-5 to Exit 49 and go west into town. Front Avenue is one block to the right of the main street. The exhibition hall is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday in summer. For more information, call 360-274-6603.
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woodland
Rich in historical charm and natural beauty, the town of Woodland is more than a jumping-off point for adventures in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.
Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens Smell the history — literally — at the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens. Its annual Lilac Festival — which showcases the fragrant purple, pink and white blossoms — is over but the gardens are open year-round. The Hulda Klager Lilac Garden is an arboretum with many flowers, shrubs, and exotic trees in addition to lilacs. Klager’s Victorian-era home is on the National Register of Historic Sites and is open to visitors during special events. 115 South Pekin Road. Open to the public 365 days a year from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. daily, with a $2 fee.
The Holland America Bulb Farm The farm was founded nearly 30 years ago by Benno and Klazina Dobbe, who immigrated to the United States from the Netherlands. The bulb farm’s gift shop is open seven days a week year-round and sells all manner of bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, irises, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, alliums, scilla and other specialty varieties. Hours are Tuesday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturdays 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. 1066 South Pekin Road; 360-225-6575; www.hollandamericabulbfarms.com.
Cedar Creek Grist Mill Perched on a steep slope above the creek, the water-powered grinding mill was built in 1876 and used by families who brought grain to the mill to be ground into flour or livestock feed. Volunteers staff weekend activities, which feature events typical to the early 20th century. Take exit 21 and head east, turning right to cross the North Fork of Lewis River. Turn left onto Northwest Hayes Road toward Amboy, which becomes Cedar Creek Road. About eight miles from Woodland, a sign points left to the mill. Turn left on Grist Mill Road and the Mill is about 3/4 of a mile; www.cedarcreekgristmill.com.
City of Woodland Community Spirit, Community Heart!
CITY HALL 100 Davidson Ave. • Police Dept., 225-6965 • Fire Dept., 225-7076 • City Council Chambers
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P.O. Box 9 Woodland, WA 98674
219 Davidson Ave. 225-7999 • Parks Dept.
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Gift Shop Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Located on the north side of the horseshoe-shaped lake is Horseshoe Lake Park, 6.5 acres of open lawn for field games, a playground, a beach, restrooms, a parking lot, skateboard park and a boat launch. Horseshoe Lake is open for swimming (no lifeguard on duty), fishing and boating (5 mph speed limit). The lake itself is 85 acres and has a maximum depth of 16 feet. It was created in 1940, when a bend in the river was isolated by freeway construction. For more information about Woodland, the city’s Chamber of Commerce and Visitor is located at 900 Goerig Street; 360-225-9552; www.woodlandwachamber.com.
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columbia county
Rainier
Sandy riverfront beaches, quiet back roads and a huge yew tree are among attractions in Columbia County, Ore. Visitors also can check out a windsurfing hot spot, a variety of trails, the largest Zen Buddhist monastery in the Northwest and what’s left of Oregon’s only nuclear power plant. 42
If you head into Rainier from the Lewis and Clark Bridge, you can explore an early river town. A white-columned, two-story city hall built in 1920 marks the center of town. The city’s spacious Riverfront Park at the west edge of town is a favorite for families. It has basketball and tennis courts, a skateboard park and a first-rate playground. It offers a close view of maritime activity at the Port of Longview. Nearby is a boat launch with restrooms and a large parking lot. Trojan site The area between Prescott Beach and the former Trojan Nuclear Power Plant offers large marshes and good bird watching. The 74-acre park at Trojan includes a 29-acre lake, 200 acres of woods and wetlands, walking trails, ball fields, sheltered picnic areas, a volleyball court and a frisbee golf course. All facilities are open Memorial Day through Labor Day though people may walk through any time. For more information on the park, call 503-464-8515 or visit www.portlandgeneral.com/parks. Delena yew tree If you’ve found yourself headed to Clatskanie, you gotta stop and take a peek at the Delena yew tree. The largest such tree in Oregon, it’s more than 100 years old and stands on the site of an early post office and stagecoach stop between Rainier and Astoria. The tree is east of Clatskanie at the Delena entrance to old U.S. Highway 30 (turn right past Alston’s Corner at the Delena exit off of Highway 30). The site is currently a farm; easy viewing is possible from the old highway.
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Columbia County Parks & recreation
Your Neighborhood Playground 1. Beaver Boat ramp & park Hwy. 30 Clatskanie U.S. 30 and Hwy 47. Within the Clatskanie city limits. Paved parking, boat launch, rest rooms, picnic tables and barbecue grills.
2. Big eddy park 6455 Nehalem Hwy, 47 N., Vernonia. Large fir trees, open play ground, fishing, canoeing, and a non-motorized boat launch. 35 camping sites, 14 with full RV hookups.
3. Camp Wilkerson 65866 Aplary Road, Rainier 280-acre secluded, forested site, 24 Adirondacks (3-sided camp shelters), numerous tent sites, rustic 2 room cabins and a rustic day lodge complete with cooking facilities to accommodate groups of up to 250 people. Bring your horses, ride the trails and camp in one of our horse corral tent sites.
Columbia County is conveniently located less than an hour away from the Portland Metro area, Vancouver, Kelso and Longview, Washington. For the day, weekend or longer - enjoy World-Class Windsurfing, Fishing, Boating, Canoeing, Kayaking, Cycling, Rural Aviation, Historic Tours and much more. View nature up close, multitudes of birds and animals in their natural habitat, wildflowers and forests are daily recreational experiences at Columbia County’s full service parks system.
4. diBBlee island park Columbia River Channel, Rainier This is among the areas visited by Lewis and Clark over 200 years ago!
5. gilBert river Boat ramp & doCks Reeder Road, Sauvie Island. Located within the Sauvie Island Wildlife Area, this facility provides easy access to the Multnomah Channel for a variety of boating activities and fishing.
6. Hudson-parCHer park 75503 Larson Road, Rainier. Popular with family groups, sports groups and others looking for peaceful forest and field camp sites. 18 RV spaces, tent camping, cabin/ cooking facility for a party of up to 66 people, ball parks, soccer field, basketball court, 3 playgrounds, covered picnic areas and easy access to fishing, boating or windsurfing.
7. J.J. Collins memorial marine park
Rm 8.0 Multnomah Channel, Scappoose. This park is only accessible by boat for a wildlife island adventure. Primitive campsites and a covered picnic area.
8. laurel BeaCH
Laurel Beach Road, Rainier. Rustic Day-use only park, featuring access to one of the Columbia River’s many fishing spots. In addition to offering outstanding bird viewing.
9. asBurry park
Saulser Rd,. St. Helens. Day-use only area, which includes picinic sites, childeren’s ball field and a nature trail.
10. presCott BeaCH
73125 Prescott Beach Drive. Day-use only area. One of the Columbia River’s finest fishing and windsurfing sites. Features a covered picnic shelter, play-ground equipment, gazebo, a horse-shoe pit and volleyball courts.
11. sCaponia park
22870 Scappoose-Vernonia Hwy., Scappoose. Recreational area featuring a 7-acre nature park and 12 tent sites.
12. sCappoose r.v. park
34038 N Honeyman Road, Scappoose. A comfortable, shaded view of this growing rural airport makes the Scappoose R.V. Park a unique spot for picnicking or camping at one of the 6 RV sites.
1054 Oregon Street, St. Helens, Oregon 97051 • Phone 503-397-2353 • Fax: 503-397-7215 • Reservations: 503-366-3984 43
columbia county Dibblee Point A few miles downstream from Rainier, Dibblee Point is an undeveloped but popular sandy beach along the Columbia River. People hike or ride horseback through the sandy trails. Dibblee Point is the closest place to Longview-Kelso with extensive bank fishing on the Columbia. To reach Dibblee Point, turn north from Highway 30 onto Rockcrest Road. Turn left onto Dike Road, go under the Lewis and Clark Bridge and right at the stop sign past the gypsum plant on Young Road. Take the gravel road across the railroad tracks to the river.
Gnat Creek
Columbia River beaches East of Rainier, Laurel Beach is a small but scenic day-use park that attracts anglers and bird watchers. A small strip of sandy beach also is accessible from the parking area. Take Laurelwood Road about 1.5 miles south of town. You’ll have to walk up a rough path and over the railroad tracks. Farther south on Highway 30, the site of Lewis and Clark’s campsite on Nov. 5, 1805, has been developed into an attractive park. The 71-acre Prescott Beach day-use park charges a small fee. You’ll also find a picnic shelter, playground equipment, gazebo, horseshoe pit and volleyball courts.
Diblee Point
Buddhist monastery Clatskanie is the home of the largest Zen facility in the Northwest. Great Vow Buddhist Monastery, 79640 Quincy-Mayger Road, was built in a converted elementary school. It is a full-time residential training monastery. Guests are encouraged to attend the Sunday program, which begins at 10 a.m. To schedule a tour, call the monastery at 503-728-0654. www.greatvow.org
Clatskanie Clatskanie was built on logging, and the heritage can be felt around town. Turn-ofthe-century lumberman T.J. Flippin built his home to look like a castle. The turreted white mansion at 620 Tichenor (turn left off Highway 30 onto Tichenor) now is a senior center and a museum. Tours of Flippin Castle, led by the senior citizens, can be arranged by calling 503-728-3608. There is a small fee. Clatskanie City Park, 300 N.E. Park St., has a large swimming pool, a sports field, playground, horseshoe pits, picnic tables and barbecue pits, tent and RV camp sites, a horse arena, a boat ramp into the Clatskanie River and restrooms with showers. The Lewis and Clark Heritage Canoe Trail begins at the park, winds along the Clatskanie River and explores the islands of the Lower Columbia. A network of sloughs offers a variety of paddling experiences for all skill levels. 44
Gnat Creek Hatchery
Water access West of Clatskanie at the intersection of highways 30 and 47, the Beaver Boat Ramp offers easy Clatskanie River access. The day-use park has picnic tables, barbecue pits and restrooms. Jones Beach is 6 miles west of Clatskanie on Highway 30 off Woodson Road. The broad beach and gusty afternoon winds draw windsurfers to the Columbia River from hundreds of miles around. The beach is used for fishing and picnicking. Overnight camping is not permitted here.
Don’t let the name scare you. This hatchery is a family friendly place that’s tucked away off Highway 30, 15 miles west of Clatskanie. The Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife raises winter steelhead and spring chinook there. The hatchery is open to visitors daily from 7:30 a.m. to dusk. It has a viewing pond with large rainbow trout and sturgeon that visitors can feed. An informational kiosk and picnic areas are available for visitors, who can enjoy scenic loop trails around the hatchery. From the hatchery, an older section of the Gnat Creek trail crosses Highway 30 then goes for 1 ¼ miles through woods to a campground with six quiet walk-in sites.
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WAHKIAKUM COUNTY A couple of charming towns — and a historic bridge — line the road west from Longview to the beach. Cathlamet seems like a small town of 50 years ago, and Skamokawa focuses on the Columbia River. In between them sprawls a wildlife refuge with deer, elk and birds.
Cathlamet The town of Cathlamet still has an authentic ambiance, a place where people work with tools and fishing tackle. Here, visitors can savor the flavor of an America before strip malls and fast-food chains jammed the landscape.
Puget Island market
Cathlamet, pronounced “cath-LA-met,” is 20 miles west of Longview on Ocean Beach Highway (SR4). The town has about 550 inhabitants. Stop at the visitor information center at the corner of Broadway and River streets. Pick up the Historic Tour Guide and set out on foot or in your car. The guide will steer you to houses which date to the 1860s. Nearby is the 1884 Pioneer Church, the steeple of which is a town landmark. Stroll down Broadway to a viewing area of the Columbia River — tugboats may be docked nearby. Walk the waterfront trail from the museum to the marina, which can be jammed when salmon fishing or sturgeon fishing is good in the Columbia.
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A block away, check out the Wahkiakum County Historical Museum, which holds a good display of Americana from the past century, with an emphasis on local livelihoods — fishing, logging and farming. Puget Island After exploring Cathlamet by foot, drive out Main Street, which becomes Highway 409, and continue across the curving bridge span to Puget Island. It’s a flatland of dairy farms, tidy houses with Scandinavian names on the mailboxes and boathouses perched on the sloughs. The highway passes the Puget Island Grange, dedicated in 1928, on the left. It’s three miles to the Puget Island ferry, the last ferry on the lower Columbia. It runs back and forth between Puget Island and Westport on the Oregon side. The 12-minute ride costs $5 per car — a cheap river cruise. Ferries normally run from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Other roads on Puget Island make an excellent place for bicycling. They’re flat and there’s little traffic. It’s about 20 miles all the way around
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Sturgeon fishing at Skamokawa Vista Park
Skamokawa Skamokawa packs a lot of tourist destinations into its tiny size. Pronounced “Skah-MOCKaway,” the riverside village is a National Historical District. The River Life Interpretive Center, an imposing structure built in 1894 as a school, towers above the highway. On the ground floor of what’s also called Redmen Hall is a gift shop, which is open noon-4 p.m. Thursdays through Sundays. The second floor houses exhibits showing the area’s history. Drive a couple of blocks down Steamboat Slough Road to look at Lurline Hall, a nicely restored 1911 building on pilings that was once a steamboat landing. It isn’t open to the public. Skamokawa also is the site of the 28-acre Vista Park on the Columbia River, which offers fishing, picnicking, boating and beachcombing. The park also includes tennis and basketball courts, a baseball field, walking paths, a large playing field, 35 campsites and five yurts — circular, domed tents on platforms with enough
space for a family to camp inside. For information on reserving a campsite there, call 360-795-8605. For further information on Cathlamet and Skamokawa, call the Wahkiakum Chamber of Commerce at 360-795-9996 or visit www.WahkiakumChamber.com. Grays River The community of Grays River in western Wahkiakum County has just a couple of stores, though its most famous feature is a short detour off the highway. The community’s historical claim to fame is a covered bridge built in 1905. The 158-foot-long bridge is the last such structure on a public roadway in the state. Originally built at a cost of $2,700, it went through a major renovation in 1989. Drive across its wood plank deck and imagine you’re in a horse-drawn buggy. The bridge is accessed by Loop Road. For information on the Elochoman and Grays rivers, see Page 17.
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astoria | 200 years
Astoria can boast that it’s the only American town west of the Rockies old enough to celebrate its 200th birthday. That’s what the town is doing this summer, with special museum exhibits, visits by historic ships and even a Reba McEntire concert on Aug. 14 (her link to the town’s history is unclear).
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Any year, however, sightseeing opportunities abound. Historical Victorian houses dot the treed hillsides, which allow breathtaking vistas of this northwest Oregon town situated on the broad Columbia River a few miles upstream of its mouth. A good place to start is the Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center at
Looking northwest from the Astor Column, the 4-mile-long Astoria-Megler bridge connects Oregon and Washington.
111 W. Marine Drive, a few blocks east of the Astoria-Megler Bridge: www.oldoregon.com or 503-325-6311. Visitor’s guides, a walking tour for shopping and dining, and a driving map of 55 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places are at the center. Besides surf, sand and history, the Astoria-Warrenton area’s charm has
attracted the eye of Hollywood, and the area has been the site of a number of movies, including “The Goonies,” “Come See the Paradise,” “Kindergarten Cop,” “Free Willy” and “Short Circuit,” to name a few. The visitor center sells lists of all the movies filmed in Astoria. 49
astoria Sea lions can often be seen — and heard — from many vantage points in Astoria.
Bicentennial Astoria turns 200: Opening events May 19-21 include new exhibits at the Heritage Museum and Columbia River Maritime Museum, plus historic re-enactments and canoe races. Other events continue through summer. www.astoria200.org.
Check out ‘The Goonies’ house and see exhibits at a museum. Also, stop by to see the Flavel House mansion — one of the many Victorian-style homes in the city.
Museums Oregon Film Museum: Last year, the Clatsop County Historical Society opened the Oregon Film Museum in the former county jail, at the corner of 7th and Duane streets. The jail was featured in the opening scenes of “The Goonies,” and many of the exhibits in the old cells are about that movie. About 300 commercial movies have been filmed in Oregon, including at least 25 in Clatsop County. The museum is open daily from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission costs $4 for adults and $2 for children (ages 6-17). For more information, call 503-325-2203 or see www.oregonfilmmuseum.org. Columbia River Maritime Museum: Permanent exhibits include a retired Coast Guard rescue boat and light ship and old fishing boats. Current temporary exhibits range from the history of tattoos to the perilous Columbia River bar. The museum is at 1792 Marine Drive; open daily 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $10 adults, $8 seniors and $5 per child ages 6-17. www.crmm.org. Flavel House mansion: George Flavel, a river bar pilot who became one of Astoria’s richest men, built the 11,600-square-foot mansion at 8th and Duane in 1885. Flavel House is open daily in summer from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and $2 for children.
Birding: Shorebirds and land birds make migratory stops in Astoria. Each season offers a slice of the 356 recorded species. A complete list of species (plus more info) at http://birdnotes.net.
Heritage Museum: The Heritage Museum at 16th and Exchange is operated by the Clatsop County Historical Society. Exhibits focus on the Germans, Swedes, Finns, Norwegians, Danes, Chinese, Serbs, Croats and others who contributed to Astoria’s history. Open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily in the summer. Admission is $3 for adults, $2 for seniors and $1 for children. Attractions Movies: The Goonies house is at 368 38th Street at Duane. Fans are asked to walk, not drive, up the gravel driveway. Fort Clatsop: Get a feel for what Lewis and Clark Expedition members endured the winter of 180506 at Fort Clatsop. The Fort Clatsop National Memorial a few miles west of Astoria includes a reconstructed fort, a visitor center/museum, 50
historical exhibits, canoe landing and a picnic area joined by trails through the wetlands and rainforests. The fort is at 92343 Fort Clatsop Road. Open daily. Summer hours 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; winter hours 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cost is $3 for adults and free to children 15 and younger. www. nps.gov/lewi/ Trolley: Anywhere between Basin and 36th streets, catch a riverfront trolley ride for $1.
Local landmark: The 125-foot tall Astoria Column, sitting atop Coxcomb Hill, offers a spectacular view of the city, as well as the Columbia River, Pacific Ocean and surrounding mountains and forests. Climb the column’s 164 steps to get to the top of this landmark, built in 1926 to commemorate Astoria’s explorers and early settlers. Follow signs up 16th or 14th streets. The column is open dawn to dusk. A $1 per car donation is requested. Swim: Escape the rain and take a dip at the Astoria Aquatic Center at 1997 Marine Drive, 503-325-7027. Features include the main pool, recreation pool, spa pool and kiddies’ pool, as well as a water slide and lazy river. A family day pass is $12. Visit www.astoriaparks.com/aac. html for more information.
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EncountEr orEgonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich cinEmatic history There have been more than 300 feature films made throughout Oregon and 25 in Clatsop County including The Goonies, filmed in Astoria. gooniEs lovE thE nEw orEgon Film musEum. you will too!
An attraction of the Clatsop County HistoriCal soCiety The Oregon Film Museum is located in the Old Clatsop County Jail on the corner of 7th and Duane Streets across from the Flavel House Museum.
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washington coast
Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for a day or longer, visitors can soak up the rays on acres of sandy beaches, hike to spectacular vistas, dig for clams, venture out to sea to fish or relax in quaint seaside towns. But wherever adventure leads, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget the camera
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washington coast The Beach The Long Beach Peninsula’s beach, 28 miles long, is one of the longest continuous sandy beaches in North America, and there’s public access every few miles. The Long Beach Boardwalk is a short walk from most places in downtown. The elevated boardwalk is nearly a half-mile long and features interpretive displays, sitting areas and great views. Most of the beach is open to motorized vehicles. Exceptions are the far northern tip, which is closed year-round, except during clam-digging seasons. During summer months, 1.4 miles of the beach is closed to vehicles, between Seaview and the Bolstad access in Long Beach. Ilwaco The vintage fishing village of Ilwaco, with its busy marina for commercial and pleasure boats, dates back to the 1880s. Its port is nestled just inside the Columbia River bar. The Port of Ilwaco is a real working fishing village. Several charter boat companies offer trips into the lower Columbia River and out to the ocean to catch salmon and sturgeon. Guest moorage is available year-round. The marina waterfront draws visitors for its restaurants, gift shops, galleries, retail seafood outlets, baristas and bookstore. Heritage Museum The Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum, 115 S.E. Lake St. in Ilwaco, celebrates the history and culture of Southwest Pacific County and the mouth of the Columbia River. The museum has a room of exhibits about the Chinook Indian tribe, including a traditional dugout canoe. Explore a pioneer village and learn about fishing, logging and cranberry farming. And there’s a replica of a town street, circa 1915, with barbershop, bar and church, as well as a fun video that tells the story of a Frenchman who rowed his 26-foot boat across the Pacific Ocean in 1991, landing in Ilwaco. Call the museum at 360-642-3446 for more information. columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org. Fort Columbia Built to defend the Columbia River from 1896 to 1947, Fort Columbia near Chinook was fully manned and operational through three wars. Today, visitors will find picnic areas, hiking trails and historical buildings at the state park. You can even stay overnight in one of the heritage houses. Hours vary in the summer and winter. A state parks permit may be required to entry this summer.
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Cape Disappointment One of Washington’s most popular state parks, Cape Disappointment covers nearly 2,000 acres with a variety of campsites and picnic areas that provide dramatic views of the ocean and the Columbia River Estuary. Visitors also can explore bunkers of an old military fort, hike to the Cape Disappointment and North Head lighthouses, wander through coastal forests, view wildlife from the North Jetty, explore Beard’s Hollow or Waikiki Beach, or visit the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center. The park is 2 miles southwest of Ilwaco on Loop 101. A daily or annual pass may be required to visit this year. www.parks.wa.gov. Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center
Port of Ilwaco
The best place to learn about the Lewis and Clark Expedition in these parts is the interpretive center that bears the explorers’ names. Perched upon a cliff, on top of two gun emplacements that once guarded the Columbia River’s mouth, is the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment. The center allows visitors to relive the 1804-1806 journey of The Corps of Discovery on a self-guided walk through displays, paintings, artifacts, photographs and entries from the original journals. The center is open daily year round, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cost is $5 for adults and seniors, and $2.50 for children ages 7-17. For more information, call 360-642-3029 or go to www.capedisappointment.org. Seaview Heading north from Ilwaco, you might stop at Black Lake in Seaview, where you can follow a gentle path along the shoreline or spot a winter population of trumpeter swans. Seaview, considered one the best examples of early coastal communities in the Northwest, was founded in 1881 and quickly became the playground for wealthy vacationers from Portland. The fine houses and cottages lining its lanes provide a nice place to walk or bike. There’s a pocket of antique shops and malls, plus fine cuisine at the Shoalwater Restaurant. Cranberries
Long Beach
The Cranberry Museum spotlights the history and methods of cranberry farming, which has been around for more than 100 years in Southwest Washington. Take a self-guided tour through the museum’s 10-acre demonstration cranberry farm, or shop for cranberry treats in the gift shop. Peak growing season is mid-September through harvest in early to mid-October. You’ll want to see the crimson bogs during harvest time. The walking tour around the demonstration farm is open each day until dusk. Hours vary with the season. The museum is at 2907 Pioneer Road, Long Beach. Call the museum at 360-642-5553 for more information, or go to www.cranberrymuseum.com
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washington coast Long Beach Long Beach is the commercial hub of the peninsula. That’s where you’ll find arcades and go-carts, along with restaurants, galleries, kite shops, upscale gift shops, bakeries and bookstores and great, as well as long, beaches. One of the better-known attractions is Jake the Alligator Man, who resides in a glass case at Marsh’s Free Museum, actually an offbeat store. Jake appears to be a small mummified human from the waist up and a gator in his lower extremities. We’ll let you be the judge. World Kite Museum The only such institution in North America, the World Kite Museum features fantastic kites from around the world and throughout history. The museum boasts a collection of more than 1,500 kites, including the most complete collection of Japanese kites outside Japan. The museum is at 303 Sid Snyder Drive in Long Beach. It’s open daily May through September, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and $3 for children. Call 360-642-4020 for more information, or go to www.worldkitemuseum.com. Ocean Park Heading north from Long Beach, you’ll want to stop in Ocean Park, home of the annual Northwest Garlic Festival each June. Originally founded as a Christian revival center, Ocean Park has grown into a full-service seaside community that welcomes some 10,000 seasonal residents each summer. Before your visit, make sure you go to www.opwa.com and print out the Ocean Park Area Walking Tour, which takes visitors past local landmarks and historical buildings. Among the highlights of the tour is The Wreckage, a home built in 1912 largely from materials salvaged from the beach. The home is now on the National Register of Historic Places.
hit the Discovery Trail The Discovery Trail, which was completed in 2009, winds 8.5 miles through coastal forest and sand dunes at the Long Beach Peninsula. The 8-foot-wide trail is open for walkers and bicycle riders; nearly all of it is paved. It follows the route William Clark and 10 members of his expedition likely followed in 1805. Plaques and sculptures along the route provide bits of Lewis and Clark history.
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To ride the entire trail east-to-west, start at the Port of Ilwaco. One of the steepest parts comes soon, followed by a series of ups and downs. About 1 mile from Ilwaco, the trail intersects Highway 100, the route to Cape Disappointment State Park.
Nahcotta Port of Chinook
Oysterville
Nahcotta is a small fishing town on the Willapa Bay side of the Peninsula. For a beautiful view of the bay and Long Island, explore the Nahcotta Tidelands Interpretive Site. More history and information about the shellfish, wildlife and plants of the Willapa Bay ecosystem can be found at the nearby Willapa Bay Interpretive Center in Ocean Park. The center, a replica of an oyster station house, celebrates the history of oyster growing in Willapa Bay. Call 360-665-4547 for more information.
“One of the Northwest’s best dinner houses.” Gerry Frank, The Oregonian
Oysterville North of Nahcotta is Oysterville, placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976. Homes here date to 1863 and grace tree-lined streets. The 1892 church is open to the public. Oysterville boasts the state’s oldest operating post office — and likely the smallest. It’s at the Oysterville Store, a combination grocery/souvenir/bookstore. Leadbetter Point State Park
clam digging Clam diggers flock to the Long Beach Peninsula and other coast beaches during digs, which are held about eight weekends per year. Every dig is contingent on acceptable levels of domoic acid, which causes illness to people who eat affected clams. For updated information, call the Department of Fish and Wildlife hot line at 360-696-6211 ext. 1010. The agency’s Web site is at: wdfw.wa.gov
Historic Seaview, WA 1208 38th Place, 409775
Located on the tip of the Long Beach Peninsula is Leadbetter Point State Park, which separates Willapa Bay from the Pacific Ocean. Leadbetter Point borders the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. Tens of thousands of shorebirds feed and rest here during spring and fall migration peaks. Here, visitors can enjoy hiking, fishing, bird watching and clamming. State Route 103 ends at Leadbetter Point State Park.
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On one short, steep downhill stretch, bicyclers might choose to dismount. However, the trail soon flattens out and crosses a 250-foot long wooden bridge over a wetland to reach the Beard’s Hollow parking lot in Cape Disappointment State Park. For the next 4 miles, the trail meanders through grassy sand dunes. Every few miles, the trail crosses a beach access road with parking and toilets. The ocean is never more than a few hundred yards away from the trail.
As the trail continues into Long Beach, it passes monuments depicting the experiences of Corps members as they explored the coast. Watch for a 9-foot, etched basalt monolith north of Bolstad Avenue and a gray whale skeleton at the south end of the Long Beach Boardwalk. There’s also Clark’s Tree, a 19-foot bronze sculpture noting the most northwest point the corps reached. The trail ends at 26th Street North, by the Breakers resort. For a map of the Discovery Trail, visit: www.funbeach.com/attractions/discoverytrail/
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360.642.2027 57
oregon coast
Highway 101 meanders along the rugged coastline through bustling coastal towns between sea cliffs, beaches and sea stacks. From Astoria, 101 stretches south past Seaside, Cannon Beach and Tillamook to Lincoln City and beyond. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss hiking a network of trails, exploring hidden tide pools and visiting iconic lighthouses.
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oregon coast Cannon Beach High-end art galleries, cozy bookstores and refined shops make Cannon Beach one of the more sophisticated stops along the Oregon Coast. Nestled between the mountains and the Pacific, Cannon Beach is on the cusp of Tolovana State Park to the south and about 10 minutes from the town of Seaside to the north. Cannon Beach’s best-known natural feature is Haystack Rock, a monolithic mound of basalt, and the lesser known “Needles” formation that surrounds it. Tufted puffins breed during summer months at the 235-foot-tall sea stack. During the puffins’ breeding season, state fish and wildlife department workers and volunteers are on hand with binoculars and telescopes so beachgoers can catch a glimpse of the unusual birds. Jewel-colored starfish, delicate anemone and various crustaceans and bivalves can be seen at the base of Haystack Rock and The Needles during low tide. To see the shore in a different way, some businesses rent “funcycle” beach-capable tricycles as well as surf boards and wetsuits. You can even charter a helicopter. Back in town, the streets are lined with businesses ranging from pricey art galleries to candy stores and kite shops. The town is small, so walking from one end to the other isn’t even a 10-block affair. But the businesses are dense, so it can take some time to get a good look at the interesting shops. Food fare ranges from family friendly seafood joints to fancier bistros. For more information, try the Cannon Beach Information Center at Second and Spruce, or at 503-436-2623; www.cannonbeach.org.
paddle into history Visitors in contemporary craft made of lightweight plastic can retrace the water approach to Fort Clatsop that Lewis and Clark’s explorers used during the winter of 1805-06. The Lewis and Clark National Historic Park will offers the free, two-hour trips on the Lewis and Clark River July 1 through Labor Day
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Along with the scenery, participants get a history lesson from rangers such as Tom Wilson, who’s a floating encyclopedia of Lewis and Clark lore. Wilson, a retired Astoria elementary school teacher, is a seasonal ranger at Fort Clatsop. He paddled part of the explorers’ route on the Missouri River
during the 2005-06 bicentennial and dresses in buckskins for reenactments at the fort on days when he’s not kayaking. Tours leave from Netul Landing, which is one mile south of the Fort Clatsop replica and visitor center, at different times each day, to coincide with high tide. Wilson said the strong tidal influence makes the Lewis and Clark River (formerly called the Netul River) brackish. So the explorers needed a fresh water supply for their camp, which they situated a few paces from a spring.
Seaside If a little more action is what you and your clan desire, just head north to Seaside. Nine miles separate quiet Cannon Beach from carnival-like Seaside. A four-block area along the west end of Broadway bustles with Pronto Pups, caramel corn, bumper cars, a Tilt-a-Whirl, carousel and arcade. The Prom, a broad sidewalk which parallels the beach for 1.5 miles and forms a T at the end of Broadway, is a great place to take a stroll without getting your feet wet. Businesses offer beach activities, including rentals of surreys, funcycles, motor scooters, bicycles, skates, boogie boards and kayaks. Barking seals are eager to catch fish you buy and toss to them at the Seaside Aquarium. Shoppers like to hit up the Seaside Factory Outlet Center, just east of Highway 101. It features 30 nationally known manufacturers and the largest wine shop on the north Oregon coast. An antique mall at the corner of Broadway and Holladay is home to nearly 100 year-round vendors. For more information, contact the Seaside Visitors Bureau, 989 Broadway, Seaside, OR 97138-6825; by phone at (866) 306-2326; or online at www.seasideor.com. The center is located at 7 North Roosevelt, just off Highway 101. Lincoln City With 7,500 permanent residents, Lincoln City is one of the larger towns on the Oregon Coast. Along with plenty of beach access and shopping, Lincoln City also offers the Chinook Winds Casino and the upscale Salishan Resort. There’s also a glass art studio. Lincoln City is 95 miles south of Cannon Beach. From Southwest Washington, the quickest way to get there is head south on I-5 to Portland, then southwest on Highway 18. Cannon Beach
Diking in the 1900s altered the river from Lewis and Clark’s days. Even more noticeable are the wood and steel pilings that jut out of the water. They’re legacies from times when Netul Landing was used to transfer logs from the river to railroad cars, and later trucks. “Tugs, sternwheelers and barges later would make these huge logs rafts,” Wilson said. In later years, people disembarked from boats at Netul Landing and rode wagons on a trail to Seaside. Today, hikers can retrace the route on the Fort-to-Sea Trail.
www.oregoncoast.org
From the canoe landing, the top of 3,300-foottall Saddle Mountain is visible 15 miles in the distance. The kayak tour stays waterborne throughout the 2 ½-mile round trip. But afterwards, visitors can retrace the route on the 1 ½-mile trail from Netul Landing to the fort and visitor center or drive there in a few minutes. Either way, it’s a lot easier than the transportation alternatives from the era of dugout canoes. Also, the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park will offer free kayaking tours on Fridays through
Mondays through Labor Day, with trips possibly extending to the end of September. No kayaking or canoeing experience is required, though it’s a good idea to have some familiarity with the craft. Paddlers meet at the Netul Landing canoe launch. The Park Service provides canoes and kayaks and PFDs, though participants may bring their own watercraft. To register, call 503-861-4428 or see www.nps.gov/lewi/planyourvisit/kayak-tours.htm 61
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columbia gorge The Columbia River Gorge is a scenic wonder, with peaks towering as much as 5,000 feet above the river. It’s also flowing with tourist attractions, from windsurfing to wine-tasting.
Hood River This vibrant town has become a mecca for all things outdoors. In summer, the windy reaches of the Columbia River off Hood River attract windsurfers from around the world. In fall, the nearby orchards of the Hood River Valley sell fruit by bushel. In winter, downhill and crosscountry skiing areas are less than an hour’s drive away. And hiking trails and fishing are available year-round. The town itself is well-supplied with trendy eateries. http://hoodriver.org/ Hikes Dozens of hiking trails — and several routes popular with mountain bikers — climb from the Columbia River into the hills above. Where to go can depend on the season. In spring, the wildflower bloom starts in March and April in the eastern Gorge and spreads west in the next few months. By late summer, the open hills of the eastern Gorge can be blasted hot, while the wooded hillsides closer to Portland offer shade and waterfalls are still rushing. 64
Maryhill Museum of Art It may seem odd to find a world-class collection of Rodin sculpture in the remote reaches of the Gorge, but consider the museum’s history. The wealthy and eccentric Samuel Hill built the castle-like structure as his home, but it was dedicated as a museum in 1926, with a visit by the queen of Romania. Today the museum houses 87 Rodins, 100 chess sets, Orthodox icons, paintings and Native American art. Maryhill is open March 15 through Nov. 15. 509-773-3733, www.maryhillmuseum.org. Stonehenge Another eastern Gorge oddity is the full-scale model of the Neolithic monument in England. Unlike the original, this one’s made of concrete. Stonehill, also built by Samuel Hill, is three miles east of the Maryhill museum.
Columbia Gorge Discovery Center This museum in The Dalles is the official interpretive center for the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. Exhibits include the history of Celilo Falls and the tribes of the area, Wasco County pioneers, the grain and fishery economies of the Gorge and its geology. These exhibits have dioramas with sound effects, video components and expert murals, including a bird’s-eye view of the loop in the river, the Dalles Dam and Mount Adams. 541-296-8600 or www.gorgediscovery.org
A few places to consider Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail is a 4.6-mile long section of the old highway now closed to motorized vehicles. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good place for a family bicycling trip, and popular with hikers, too. The maximum grade is 5 percent, which is enough to make cyclists break into a good sweat on a sunny day. The trail between Hood River and Mosier, Ore., includes two tunnels, 288 and 88 feet long. The Hood River end of the trail has a visitor center. Rangers and volunteers in the center have information on the road, along with trails and campgrounds in the Gorge. www.oregonstateparks.org/ park_155.php The upper portion of Columbia Hills State Park and adjacent Columbia Hills Natural Area Preserve are two of the best places for eastern Gorge flowerwatching. Arrow-leaf balsamroot, a showy yellow flower that grows more than 2 feet tall, provides the waves of color in spring. The area is about 8 miles east of The Dalles. www.parks.wa.gov Coyote Wall/Catherine Creek is a dramatic geological oddity that forms a giant, 2-mile-long step on the Washington side of the Gorge. Below the wall are oak and pine woods; atop the 200-foot tall cliff are miles of open, rolling meadow. Though there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t any official trails yet, hikers and mountain bikers have carved them. The area is continguous with the Catherine Creek area, which has trails more popular with walkers. Multnomah Falls is a 620-foottall cascade is the most popular tourist attraction in Oregon. Most people stroll a few yards to the base of the falls, but a network of trails switchbacks up the hill and connects with other nearby falls. www.fs.usda.gov/wps and click on Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area
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To Tacoma, Seattle, Vancouver B.C.
Leadbetter Point State Park Oysterville Ocean Park
Winlock
Nahcotta
Toledo
PACIFIC COUNTY Vader
5
WAHKIAKUM COUNTY Long Beach Grays River
Seaview
Naselle Ilwaco 101
Cape Disapointment State Park
Rosburg Knappton Chinook
4 Cowlitz River
Skamokawa
Castle Rock
Elochoman River
5
Cathlamet
Fort Stevens Warrenton State Park
Astoria
Knappa
30
4
Puget Island
Longview
Coweeman River
Westport
Kelso Clatskanie
30
Rainier
CLATSOP COUNTY 47
Kalama
COLUMBIA COUNTY
202
Seaside
Deer Island
202
St. Helens
Ecola State Park 47 26
Cannon Beach 66
Scappoose To Portland To Portland
5
Cowlitz River To Mount Rainier, White Pass and Yakima
Mossyrock
Randle
12
25 76
LEWIS COUNTY
Tou tl
Toutle River
Coldwater Spirit Lake Lake
504 e Ri v
er
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
Silver Lake
COWLITZ COUNTY
Mount St. Helens
2
88
90
Cougar Yale Lake
Lake Merwin
Mount St. Helens NVM Adminstrative District
83
81
503
99
Cowlitz Valley Ranger District
Swift Reservoir
51
30
54
Kalama River
Yacolt
Lewis River
12
Mount Adams Ranger District
5 Woodland
CLARK COUNTY La Center
SKAMANIA COUNTY
N
RidgeďŹ eld Battle Ground To Portland 67
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